hello your way of explaining is superb .finally videos that show slowly and properly the metal Iam missing.will watch and learn.thank you soooo much.please dont stop filming
Yes sir!! Love your methodical and organized way of working; you get the best product that way. Your videos are probably the best I’ve seen on heater channel replacement.
I'm glad I found this. I was about to rip the old ones off and throw these on. I had no idea there was this much prep work involved. I would have been bummed if I'd seen this after I did all the work. Thanks for the tips!
The thing to remember when you weld it in the paint will burn off the inside. so there will still be some bare metal your just trying to do anything you can to protect what is there. most important is those sill plates where the water settles if it gets inside. This is why I will not drive my old bug in the rain much definitely not in the snow. water still gets in there all it takes is a big puddle and your saying hello to rust again. Save the car for dry days. keep it in a dry place when your not using it.
You are so right. Here in the east coast the saltwater air and humidity kills these cars. However, you just have to be diligent in minimizing that type of exposure. Humidifier for your garaged vehicle goes a long way.
... Wow that's exactly what I doing as I watch you video ....I did replace the entire Firewall ... I'm in Orlando, Florida so I'm Not going to need Heat Flow .
Usually the bolts Line right up. but you may need to elongate the holes in the pan somewhat. to install it. Most of the time you can use a jack and move it up and down and the holes will line up. I never check them anymore. Because it is what it is if they were a bit off you still need to do the same. Yes you need to coat the inside of them they do not dip them. and remove the crap Klockerholm primer on there because it is not epoxy or waterproof. I have just used oil based rust inhibiting paint and sprayed till I get runs coming out the other end with high pressure and no fan. Works OK good enough. Definitely need to reweld the nuts. I usually drill next to them. I could not guarantee I would get penetration the with the cut off wheel like that. 2 small holes. those nutcerts snap right off every time.
Thanks Mike. Great advice! I really value your thoughts and advice. I have been watching your videos for years and your work on VW’s is AWSOME. You are so fortunate to live in CA, where as us northeast coast guys have very limited resources for our VW’s. Envious yes, since the VW scene is impeccable in CA. Take care and keep them videos coming.
Yup, I ripped the nuts out while bolting the pan to the body, did not think to chase the threads or weld again...but that was 20 years ago and car still is not done...I bought weld nuts.... been working on other vw projects...as it sits
@@FixinBugsNStuff it's L41 black 62 sunroof bug, a friend of mine helped me weld the sunroof on, old school, hard way, has not run in almost 30 years..I did drive the car before purchase though... I'll get to it
hello
your way of explaining is superb .finally videos that show slowly and properly the metal Iam missing.will watch and learn.thank you soooo much.please dont stop filming
Glad to help. Thanks.
Yes sir!! Love your methodical and organized way of working; you get the best product that way. Your videos are probably the best I’ve seen on heater channel replacement.
Thank you.
Great video! I'll definitely refer back when I do the heater channels on my 66!
Glad to help out
I'm glad I found this. I was about to rip the old ones off and throw these on. I had no idea there was this much prep work involved. I would have been bummed if I'd seen this after I did all the work.
Thanks for the tips!
Glad it helped.
Very well explained. I learned a lot of new tips. I've got to also say your videos are enjoyable to watch!
Thanks. Sometimes I ramble and put myself to sleep. 😴
Very nice job and well explained! Eastwood makes really nice products!
Thanks man!
Wow great video! Agree with all your points, have managed to do most of the mistakes you point out myself 😀
You know how bad things can get, I hope I pointed out everything.
The thing to remember when you weld it in the paint will burn off the inside. so there will still be some bare metal your just trying to do anything you can to protect what is there. most important is those sill plates where the water settles if it gets inside. This is why I will not drive my old bug in the rain much definitely not in the snow. water still gets in there all it takes is a big puddle and your saying hello to rust again. Save the car for dry days. keep it in a dry place when your not using it.
You are so right. Here in the east coast the saltwater air and humidity kills these cars. However, you just have to be diligent in minimizing that type of exposure. Humidifier for your garaged vehicle goes a long way.
... Wow that's exactly what I doing as I watch you video ....I did replace the entire Firewall ... I'm in Orlando, Florida so I'm Not going to need Heat Flow .
Thanks for explaining well as want to tackle this job soon and now I’ve some confidence 👍
Glad to help.
great detail!!!!
Nice Information.
Usually the bolts Line right up. but you may need to elongate the holes in the pan somewhat. to install it. Most of the time you can use a jack and move it up and down and the holes will line up. I never check them anymore. Because it is what it is if they were a bit off you still need to do the same. Yes you need to coat the inside of them they do not dip them. and remove the crap Klockerholm primer on there because it is not epoxy or waterproof. I have just used oil based rust inhibiting paint and sprayed till I get runs coming out the other end with high pressure and no fan. Works OK good enough. Definitely need to reweld the nuts. I usually drill next to them. I could not guarantee I would get penetration the with the cut off wheel like that. 2 small holes. those nutcerts snap right off every time.
Thanks Mike. Great advice! I really value your thoughts and advice. I have been watching your videos for years and your work on VW’s is AWSOME. You are so fortunate to live in CA, where as us northeast coast guys have very limited resources for our VW’s. Envious yes, since the VW scene is impeccable in CA. Take care and keep them videos coming.
Yup, I ripped the nuts out while bolting the pan to the body, did not think to chase the threads or weld again...but that was 20 years ago and car still is not done...I bought weld nuts.... been working on other vw projects...as it sits
Aww man I know the feeling. Is it the super beetle? Is the car drivable?
@@FixinBugsNStuff it's L41 black 62 sunroof bug, a friend of mine helped me weld the sunroof on, old school, hard way, has not run in almost 30 years..I did drive the car before purchase though... I'll get to it
Great video and tips!
Thanks man!
Great video thanks.
I hope it helps ya. Thanks for checking it out.
Sorry, is it possible to write the measurements for each piece of length, width and dimensions of the screw holes?
Yes you can. Measure it against the floor pan. The simplest way is to fit it up.
Great video, i dont know much about cars, but how does heat go from engine to cabin
Heat blown through heater boxes then into the car.
Hi guys, I need the measurements for the length, width, height, distance between the holes and the end of the side
It looks like a JP Dansk channel, same as what I've used.. I belive they're E-Coated inside and out.
isn't there anyway u could open up channels and install a pipe to send heat threw?
@@batoutdahell3084 they already have a tube inside that directs the heat