Thanks for starting to do speaker reviews. When I upgraded my stock speakers I just got the cheapest they had ( $45 ), which gave a much better sound. I've been happy, but sure It could be better. Been thinking of installing amps and subs soon as well.
Thank you for the encouragement! Are you running the speakers off an aftermarket head unit? If you're doing this in phases, I usually recommend adding the sub next. That will make a huge impact. Or consider maybe getting a 5-channel amp and you can do it all in one shot ;)
@carstereochick I changed both my speakers and head unit ( ddx 4019 bt ) and kenwood speakers. I'm thinking of getting good speakers and subs with my amps, so they can be all matched to each other. This would be the easiest way for me.
I heard their older Alpine RS Component 6.5" a few years ago and thought they sounded smooth and basically "Just Right". And I been audiophile for to many years to count.
I’m currently installing the three way version of these. Taking a break, had to custom make mods for the mid range. Can’t wait to finish and hear the difference.
New subscriber and a like for the fact your content is detailed, explanatory and above all I'm finding very technical details in TLDR that are spot on. - BT even connected to my Alpine PXE-C80-88 HiRes DSP BT dongle, Tidal Android app DISPLAY drops down to "High" from FLAC OR MOA, many skip that info but huge difference. - speaker cone material was important to me with an SQ system, so I chose HDZ-65cs, and it was a tough choice between R2-65c both being Hi-Res since I always source FLAC from USB - Alpine TRK-R2 twin 8" dvc w/ S2-A60M 600w mono since PXE cant be bridged on 2 dedicated sub channels at 150w each Anyway, first video for me and going to watch more Thanks again
I’m looking into buying the new Alpine DSP C80 but I’m having trouble finding a solid mid base driver to make an active system with the DSP. It seems like everybody’s going back to components which I love but I really would like to run a good 4 inch tweeter. I’m looking for a solid 6 1/2 or 6 x 9 midday driver that I can actively crossover.
Great review video, thank you! I have a Honda Civic EX, and I am looking to upgrade the stock speakers. I may consider Alpine R2-S65C, but I am not sure if these work well with the stock head unit. Otherwise, I will go with Alpine S2-S65C. Any suggestions?
Sorry for the late reply, but efficiency is key when upgrading speakers with a stock head unit. As much as I like Alpine I would steer you towards JBL, Infinity or even PowerBass has some 2 ohm options. Something with 92 or 93 dB efficiency. Also I'd highly encourage you to do full sound dampening in the doors (inner and outer skins) plus fast rings which will really help to cut down on road noise and create a better cabinet for the speakers so you can actually hear more of the sound from the speakers and less road noise.
I got the standard version of these installed about a month ago along with the Optim8 DSP Amp. The tweeters are in the factory location in the A-pillars. I ended up crossing them over at 90Hz. The install was done properly with utilization of sound deadening and hush mat. I am very impressed with the DSP with the "AutoEQ" that measures the sound in your car and corrects it for you. It's truly amazing, and is kind of a "must have" item in my opinion. These did NOT sound good in my vehicle prior to EQ'ing everything due to a 10dB spike from 6khz to 8khz (because of tweeter location) and various other acoustic issues with most cars. I would agree with the comments made about the sound quality. These things are really incredible when it comes to the details and accurate music reproduction. I have found that they are capable of doing whatever is asked of them, for the most part. Meaning that they perform well enough to be tuned to your preference, and will provide nice separation and accuracy. I'm hearing instruments deep into the mix that I never knew were there. I can't really comment on loudness vs other speakers. Again, DSP is pretty much required - especially since these don't have that natural roll-off like silk dome tweeters. Great job, Alpine!
@@julesbruchez-theartofgrapp9646 Yes, except I actually left the passive crossovers to protect the tweeters. The passives are set at 2kHz, but I raised it to 3.5 kHz at a 12db slope on the DSP because it sounded better to me. Most people who know car audio recommend 3 to 4 kHz for a regular 1” tweeter with a setup like this. I spent more time messing with the target curve in the iPhone app than actually setting up the channel mix and crossovers in the dsp.
@@rexhouseo7010 How is the C80? I am on the fence about getting the DSP. I just saw a video on the last DSP and Amp combo Alpine had and the ratings were shit on the power side. The DSP was great and so was the low-level RCA outputs. But the output speaker leads were bad. They produced a lot of distortion even at low levels. I REALLY want the C80 but I am so nervous due to so little people out there with it. I would love to know your experience
@@julesbruchez-theartofgrapp9646 I like it. It was really the only thing that would achieve what I needed. I’d probably consider running a dedicated sub amp if I had more than one 8”. DIY mobile audio has a great technical review.
@@rexhouseo7010 I decided to go with the C60 same tunning possibilities just no amp. I drove my self nuts back and forth with different possibilities with time alignment for different parts in the future. My current set up is pretty decent. Where it’s at. I could get a little bit more nitpick but for now it’s really pretty awesome without a DSP. I can’t imagine when it’s going to be like when I hit that auto EQ function and start tuning everything out. I did decide to break down and buy a JL audio or D 900/5. I will use them right now on my front stage components which are six by nines so I’m getting a pretty decent amount of midbass. It’s more my next vehicle I’m concerned with as I move into probably 6 1/2’s in the front. I think I’m just gonna buy a decent three-way component set and master the installing to make sure I represent the soundstage perfectly, but instead of focusing on trying to get a lot of midbass out of 6 1/2 even though I know that’s possible, if constructed properly , especially if they’re not installed into the doors. That fifth channel on the JL audio amp is going to run a Shalam mount JL, audio 8 inch woofer in the front. I’ll either put it under the dash or somewhere under the seats, the creative better midbass soundstage in the front. I already have a kicker mono Blanc amp will run a subwoofers in the back
Hello Annie I was just going through your video hoping to find a video about subwoofer. The reason I’m here is I need help with tuning my amp correctly. I currently have two 12” jl audio tw3 running them with a jl audio 1000/1D JX and a audio control epicenter. Both sub are in a ground shaker sealed box facing down in my 2017 chevy crew cab. I am also using my stock stereo. I would appreciate your help. Thank you 😊
Ooh, that's tough to answer in a comment. I have it on our list of videos to make to do an amp/sub tuning with a stock head unit because it's actually a bit more complicated than if we're tuning with an aftermarket head unit. John can chime in more about the epicenter when he's got some time, but I'll try and give you some basics. Have you determined where you're grabbing audio signal. Not sure if yours is the stock Bose and in that case we're probably grabbing signal at the stock sub or we're using something like the PAC APSUB-GM61 (if you can find one - gives you a clean pre-amp level signal before the stock Bose amp). Or if non Bose, it's probably going to be tapped off the front door speakers. But we always check and test 1st. John will use a tone generator to determine which speakers are producing the signal we need to make sure nothing is filtered/crossed over from the factory. He also checks the voltage to make sure it's not too much input signal for the amp or line output converter to handle. Then after that he will play test tones (40 Hz and 1 kHz) and measure to see at what point the stock head unit starts to send a clipped signal. Once you know where you're getting signal and what your max safe volume level is on the radio, then you can start adjusting your gains. Some aftermarket amps or line output converters have clipping indicator lights built in, but I don't think either of those products have that feature. The epicenter does complicate the process because you then basically need to check it again after that because you need to make sure whatever processing you have going on there is not then taking that signal and distorting it in any way. Best bet would be to use an Oscilloscope to check it on the output side of your Epicenter and then adjust the jumpers as need on the Epicenter. Once you're certain you have a clean signal from there going into your amp and you know your safe max volume level on the head unit you can play that 40 Hz test tone again and with an Oscilloscope connected at the speaker level output of the amp, you can bring up the gains making sure the signal is clean. Once you think you have it an appropriate output level, you can start playing tunes and make sure you have the right blend. It's a bit of back and forth sometimes between testing and adjusting to get it dialed in. If you don't have an Oscilloscope you can look into getting a basic combo Oscilloscope/Multimeter on Amazon. We have our fancy one I use in a lot of head unit testing videos, but we also have a simpler $80 one off Amazon that works well for basic testing like this. You'd also want some RCA to speaker lead adapters to make the testing on the output side of the Epicenter easier. I hope that is helpful!!!
I'm drawn to these quite a bit. I like accurate & tight and I like my bass fast. My question to you is about soundstage. When set up correctly how detailed is the soundstage and are there there other brands I should be looking at that perform at this level & price point which really are able to give me that wide spatial experience?
The sound stage can be very detailed even for both driver and passenger when set up correctly. I took a listen to these in my Alpine reps personal vehicle and she has it going through their new processor, the Optim8, running bi-amped, no rears and sound stage was spot on. That is an awesome DSP by the way. Amazing that it was able to give me the illusion of a centered sound stage for passenger and same for driver at the same time. Talking about the tweeter specifically, personally I prefer a Morel tweeter because they are a bit more delicate while still maintaining a very open and airy sound. The Alpine tweeter is definitely more pronounced and crisp, but still not as bright as I would have expected it to be for a hard dome tweeter. In fact, it's incredibly smooth for a hard dome tweeter. The thing to keep in mind is Morel may have a more airy tweeter, but they are usually lacking in mid bass and that would be quite noticeable if you were to do a side by side comparison. For the $399 price point, these speakers have a great balance and performance that is hard to beat. If you can find a shop that carries both, I would recommend listening to these and the Morel Tempo Ultra 602. And listen to both with and without a sub if possible.
@@carstereochick you’re the best! Thx for the response, lastly. If I have a 12 speaker stock setup (MB Harmon Kardon) do I need to replace all 12 or will I have a good result with the 8 doors and powered sub? The other speakers are a single 3 in the dash, two 3s in the package tray and the factory sub also in the package tray.
Interesting. I sell audio and can get whatever I'd like for the most part, but I definitely prefer a silk dome tweet. I've got some last gen Type R 6x9's I haven't installed yet (For my regular cab Silverado) and I think they've got a silk dome. If there was something substantially better, I would strongly consider it. I'm a Focal dealer too. (For the home so I'm not familiar with the car product) How do you like the Alpine Status speakers? How's the tweet? I'll probably stick with a 2-way tweets in the dash, and woofer in the door. On a side note, these Type R crossovers might as well be mounted to the speakers, they're just a big empty box with three tiny parts in them.
Hi, Great review. Just one question. Even if we use wired carplay and playing those hi-res files from apple music, will they be lossless or downsampled? Because I read on apple support that wired carplay does support lossless audio but I haven't had chance to test it. Thanks
I’ve just had the R Series Pro’s installed in a Renault Trafic van. The tweeters are set at -3db and are running off the 11 inch Alpine Halo head unit. In a lot of songs the highs seem a little too prominent for my liking. I’m waiting on an Alpine Status 5 channel amp to run them and also the 10 inch shallow sub the same as you refer to (which is not yet connected). I’m hoping this will significantly improve the overall sound. Thanks for your review, it played a major role in my choice.
I think you will find with the upgraded amp (and sub) a dramatic difference in performance. I wouldn't sell these speakers to someone who wanted to power them off the head unit only. I understand it sounds like you're doing your upgrade in phases, but I think perhaps part of the issue is these are very power hungry speakers, not very efficient. And the amp built into the 11" Halo is not significant. I definitely recommend giving them at least 75 watts RMS, ideally 100 watts RMS. I think once you give them the proper power, you will be quite happy :) ALSO - in one of our videos John adjusted the EQ on the iLX-507 and we've had a lot of feedback from viewers and end users that this made a big difference in sound quality. You may want to try applying and see if it smooths it out a bit: ua-cam.com/video/TSdQj1DbaZ8/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared&t=655 Lastly - tweeter position can also be a factor. What year is your vehicle? I looked up the van and cringed after seeing the factory tweeter location on the newer models. GM did something very similar in their pick up trucks 2007 - 2013 and it is like the WORST place for tweeters. They're on the pillars, but almost pointing inwards towards the glass which is just horrible for sound stage and reflection. How are the tweeters mounted in your van? Are they coming at you? Or mounted on the pillars sort of facing each other/the glass? Sometimes for applications like this we order some tweeter pods from ValiCar Stuttgart so we can really aim them properly.
@@carstereochick Thankyou for such a detailed reply. I feel a whole lot more confident that it’s going to sound a lot better once the amp (Alpine HDA-V90 Alpine Status Hi-Res Audio 5 Channel Amplifier)arrives and gets installed. I originally had an Alpine R-Series 6/5/4/3 Channel Power Amplifier - R-A90S to get installed but apparently this wasn’t suitable to power the subwoofer hence why it was just installed with the head unit powering the 6 1/2 inch components. The tweeters are facing towards driver and passenger. It’s a 2018 model and are mounted in the upper panel between side mirrors and pillars. Thanks again for taking the time to reply and give such valuable feedback.
The way I heard Hi-Res explained is that it rolls off the highs much further in the frequency band so that it doesn't roll off any treble info before 20k
I have heard it explained this way as well and I think that is accurate, but I found this explanation to be a lot more relatable and easier for clients or those who aren't exactly tech savvy to understand.
@@carstereochick have you found need a ton of dynamat installed to hear the Hi-Res difference while driving? Seems like road noise might negate a lot of the improvements.
Great review! I have a '13 Jeep Wrangler 2dr. Installed an Alpine i509 WRA JK, Alpine 455U Amp, Kicker 11HS8 Sub and 4 Kicker 6.5 speakers. Great system for me. I'd like to install the R2-S652 system you talked about. But, I don't need 2 sets of speakers that yields an extra pair of tweeters. Is the R Series available w/o tweeters?
Great question, yes, just not in the Pro series. So you could do the R2-S652 for the front lower dash mids and upper dash tweeters and a set of the R2-S65 coaxials (tweeter built in) for the sound bar. Nice set up by the way!
Hello, great overview on these speakers. I have a 2015 Mustang premium and I’ve replaced all the speakers with Massive Audio (junk I know) and I’m pushing everything with Rockford Fosgate Punch amps. I want to replace the components with these and I’m wondering if they would fit the stock location. Thank you.
Hi, thanks for watching! They would with some Metra speaker adapters 82-FD1. Also, I hope you're running this either through an aftermarket head unit OR you're using a Pre-amp adapter or DSP with the factory head unit?
“If using Apple CarPlay, the file tops out at 20,000Hz anyways.” Please explain. I thought streaming Amazon Music or Apple Music with a subscription is actually streaming much higher quality, showing a badge of “Lossless” for 44.1kHz and “Lossless High-Resolution” for 96kHz and/or 192kHz. Working on a plan to upgrade my 2019 Toyota RAV4 Limited with JBL. Head unit choices are very limited. For now.
My understanding is this is a limitation of Apple CarPlay specifically and in order to get the higher resolution you need to use a separate DAC. I've talked to a couple manufacturers about this to get clarity, but the key takeaway I got was when you're using CarPlay, you are limited to CD quality max and that for the higher res capability you need an external DAC which wouldn't be compatible with CarPlay.
@@carstereochick yes…and well, maybe no?! Vaguely reassuring, I know. Coming from home audio, I chose what I wanted in hardware and then checked the viable pathways. Speakers are truly the limiting factor. Without rehashing wifi CarPlay vs USB, AC told me the frequency fed in will be allowed to bypass out for the DM-810. DAC or no, feed a 24/96kHz signal in, it will feed completely out to each speaker per crossover setting. Ok, check. The Sony 4-ch A/B Xm-GS4 will allow for 10-100kHz signal. Ok, check. Currently only 4 tweeters that I know of go above 40kHz anyway, 3 from BLAM 40/43/45kHz and the TBM from focal 50kHz. So, 48kHz frequency to do 96kHz sampling (Nyquist-Shannon theorem) is as high as I could expect with the TBM. Keeping the price reasonable, I’ll stick with the Sony Mobile ES speakers over the Alpine R2-S series and call it a day. It will be a tremendous improvement. Thoughts?
Totally a personal preference. Personally I find the C3's a bit muted, very soft on the top end (which if you have sensitive ears may prefer) nice heavy mid - definitely power hungry. The Kenwood's have a nice tonal balance and a crisp top end. When clients hear these Alpine's against several options we have on display like the Kenwood XR's, JL C2's, Morel Maximo Ultra series, Kicker KS I would say 7 out of 10 prefer the tonal balance and crisp, clean highs of these Pro R2's. Those with sensitivity towards top end will gravitate towards the JL C2, Morel Maximo Ultra or Kicker KS which all have a soft dome tweeter.
Can I ask why you want to do a 3-way? What vehicle? Are you using A-pillar mounts for tweeter and mid? Or what is the placement situation like? What DSP are you using? I'm assuming you'll be running active? The reason I ask all that is in our experience, unless you have the mid and tweet in the right location or precisely time aligned, the additional separation of components can create imaging and sound quality issues. Based on the level of quality speakers you're asking about, it sounds like you have that all dialed in and covered. From my listening experience - I found the JL C7 3-way to be quite mid heavy (too much for my taste personally). Focal Utopia are just sublime, they're incredible! Have only heard/installed the 2-ways. Same thing with the Morel Supremo, I think that's actually only available in a 2-way, but I suppose you could build it out to a 3-way. Again a lot of the performance will vary depending on how you set it up, what amp, DSP etc. but I would say the Focal mids are more vibrant/natural and lively. And that Beryllium tweeter is just something else. I love Morel too, because of the natural detail, delicateness and smoothness of their tweeters. It depends on what your ears are geared towards. Personally I need the smoother top end of the Morel tweeters, but the Utopia is also top notch.
I've had 3way ARC Audio black series setup in a mini Cooper with a arc audio ps8 with a class a Amp and a 10 inch sub enclosed front stage was awesome now I have a Ford transit connect titanium and I want to do something special so far I've only purchased Audison 8 channel dsp amplifier and I'm leaning towards 8 inch subs will have to do custom mid range pods in the a pillar all four doors take a 6.5 speaker today a friend mentioned Alpine status 3way setup my music source will mainly be Pandora and Tidal
@carstereochick choice of tweeters are very important I know Focal Utopia M has a nice Beryllium tweeter and I have heard Morel tweeters also. More less I'm looking for a Wow sound experience for myself and especially from a would be passenger/passenger's LOL
Focal Utopia and Morel Supremo are both top notch and I'm glad to hear you are planning on doing custom pods for placement because that is key. There is a company we order from in Germany sometimes for installs like this, called Valicar Stuttgart. They make some cool little tweeter and mid enclosures that can be mounted on the A-pillar or dash. One of our clients did 2 sets of Supremo's with Helix Class A/B amps and an older Audison Bit One running optical out of the stock head unit and another client went for the Focal Utopia BE series front sound stage only (both were 2-ways actually) with a Mosconi Pro amp and Audison Bit One HD. They were both incredible. I would say between the 2, the Morel tweeter is definitely more delicate/easier on the ears. Focal has a greater presence. Their commanding and truly captivating. With proper tuning and set up, you can't go wrong with either option, but I hope that gives you a good idea of the tonal differences.
If you want a “warm” sound, forget about hard dome tweeters. Morel would be your best bet. Focal and Alpine are very harsh sounding. JL i have no idea, not very common in Europe. I would look into Steg speakers for a great warm sound.
Look into something low profile for a sub, forget about getting it from your door speakers and if you're adamant about not doing a sub, make sure you sound dampen the doors completely. Even the best 6.5" car audio speakers available (think Morel Supremo or Focal Utopia series - $$$$) will still need a subwoofer. We can hear down to 20 Hz, but the average 6.5" speaker can really only play down to about 50 - 80 Hz, but even then, not very effectively or not at a level that's really highly audible/impactful. Once you add in road noise/tire noise/exhaust noise - which tends to resonate around the same frequency range, you can barely hear the bass. Adding a subwoofer, with the larger surface area and more power with the separate amplifier allows us to add in that natural frequency range that is in our music recordings, that simply isn't effectively reproduced by a 6.5" speaker. Having said that - if your vehicle accommodates the 6x9 component or coax, with good clean power, properly sound dampened and tuned, you'll get a good amount of mid bass for sure. But nothing like a real subwoofer.
@@carstereochick thx for ur prompt and detailed response, love the low end bass of a sub but trying not the add weight to my car for those occasional track days… that’s why I wanted some higher RMS wattage speakers thanks again
That's a great little amp! I think if you're planning on running active, front sound stage only, yes. If you plan on using that as a 4-channel for front and rear, it might be a little under powered. I guess it depends on how loud you like it and how much head room you want. There are lots of great subs that would work with your sub amp. The answer REALLY depends on a lot of factors. I'm always asking clients if space is a concern, what kind of set up they've had in previous cars that they've enjoyed (or didn't enjoy) to get an idea of whether or not they'd prefer sealed (tighter, punchier, less efficient, smaller enclosure) or ported (more output, increased efficiency, but not quite as tight or defined, larger enclosure). Assuming you're looking for a pre-fab solution, for something compact, punchy and tight, you may want to consider the JL Audio CS110TG-TW3. For a great pre-fab solution ported, either the Alpine S-SB12V or a Kicker Comp R 48VCWR122. If you're looking to build yourself a small, sealed enclosure, I'm a fan of the new Audio Control Shallow subs. Super efficient, tight and punchy available in 10" or 12", 400 watts RMS.
@@carstereochick Front and rear but I'm looking for a little boost and more about sound correction. Currently it sounds terrible. Encore GX Planning Virtus 602 components and maximo coaxial. Thoughts? Subwoofer, you're correct at 10" sealed. Don't like bass sloppy. Space is a concern. I even considered the JBL Stadium BassHub.
It's funny you mention the Stadium BassHub. I had actually typed it as a suggestion and then erased it because I didn't know what you were driving and that thing does not fit in every car. I hate getting clients hopes up about it. It's one of those things where I say, "I might have a really cool solution, but I need to see your car and test fit it before I explain" because it's such a bummer when it doesn't fit! If it fits however? That thing sounds awesome and takes up zero space. I think you have great taste in speakers. The Maximo's are quite efficient and would be fine with that power. The Virtus 602 should be okay, but keep in mind, they can take a lot more than that.
Personally I think the previous discontinued X speakers were far more refined. The new Status series would be a more accurate replacement for that model. It's a shame your X's need replacing. When you do upgrade, be sure to tune your amp using an oscilloscope and test tone frequencies so you can make sure the signal is not getting clipped.
This is definitely a personal preference as everyone's perception and hearing varies. Also saw you asking about the JL C2's on another video as well. They all have very different characteristics. Personally, I would like the Sony's because I like the open and airy tonality of the tweeter. It's quite detailed, but still very smooth. Whereas some clients prefer the crispness and punchiness of the Alpine R2 series, and yet for others, the hard dome tweeter can come off as a bit harsh. Clients that are very sensitive to top end frequencies gravitate towards the JL C2's which are very smooth. Yet others would find their tweeter somewhat muted. Everyone's ears are different so there is no right or wrong answer. The Audison Prima's are another great contender, but it's been quite some time since I've heard them. I had them in an older BMW at one point and would say that even though they have a soft dome tweeter, their tweeter is definitely more pronounced than the C2's.
Great question. Unfortunately it's been years since I've listened to a set of Infinity Kappas. The last set I listened to - personally I found them to be a little bit too bright and crispy for me on the top end. The current model may be smoother, but I haven't heard them. Overall I find the R2-S652's to be pleasantly crisp, but without being too bright or harsh. I hope that's helpful!
They sound more efficient and generally have a crisp and balanced tone compared to the previous generation S series. Very different materials and tweeter. But the R2's are definitely the more popular choice among clients.
What are you hooking this up to? Usually if you're using 3-way network mode on an aftermarket head unit, in the crossover settings the wf is referring to your actual subwoofer, mid as the front door mid range and tw for tweeter. These include a standard passive crossover network with a woofer connection, tweeter connection and input connection. If you want to run actively you can, BUT it's super important that you dial in the crossover on whatever head unit you're using to what Alpine recommends. I was trying to look it up for you, but was surprised to see it's not specified in the owner's manual. Definitely reach out to them and see what Alpine recommends based on the options you have in your head unit.
Someone else commented on this as well and it's so funny, because I realize I say it both ways for good reason. It's either Focal or Fo-Cal depending on what client I'm chatting with. As a salesperson, I naturally adopt the language my clients use because I instinctively don't want to make them feel foolish or insult them by correcting them. If a client comes in and pronounces it Focal, I call it Focal. If they call if Fo-Cal, I call it Fo-Cal. If they ask me how it's pronounced I tell them it's French, Fo-Cal. It's just a habit I've learned over the years and I guess when I'm on camera I forget what client I'm talking to or maybe it's the fact that I'm talking to potentially many different clients and some will pronounce it Focal and some will pronounce it Fo-Cal.
This definitely feels like a more solid driver due to the aluminum cast basket which is more rigid. The standard series has a polymer cast basket, similar to the previous generation R series. The rigidity of the aluminum basket does help to improve performance by reducing flex (distortion) and it also is more efficient in dissipating heat than a polymer basket. However, both series utilize the glass fiber cone and hard magnesium dome tweeter. Great question!
Excusez-moi! You know, I did say it that way at one point. I say it both ways because from my experience the American way is how most consumers pronounce it if I’m showing them options and asking them which speakers they prefer. I don’t like making a client feel dumb if they mispronounce it. So I generally just roll with how they pronounce it. Pro sales tip!
Lol. Alpine actually sent me a cease and desist letter when I did a less than flattering honest review on their off road GPS. I had to take that video down. In fairness, I made this video before I was aware of that non disparage clause and I actually do point out/criticize some of their more questionable feature choices in my head unit reviews.
I tried with some Sony WH-1000XM4 headphones! You are correct. Some people can hear over that, but I find it doubtful anyone would be able to perceive it in a car traveling down the road.
Thanks for starting to do speaker reviews. When I upgraded my stock speakers I just got the cheapest they had ( $45 ), which gave a much better sound. I've been happy, but sure It could be better. Been thinking of installing amps and subs soon as well.
Thank you for the encouragement! Are you running the speakers off an aftermarket head unit? If you're doing this in phases, I usually recommend adding the sub next. That will make a huge impact. Or consider maybe getting a 5-channel amp and you can do it all in one shot ;)
@carstereochick I changed both my speakers and head unit ( ddx 4019 bt ) and kenwood speakers.
I'm thinking of getting good speakers and subs with my amps, so they can be all matched to each other. This would be the easiest way for me.
I heard their older Alpine RS Component 6.5" a few years ago and thought they sounded smooth and basically "Just Right". And I been audiophile for to many years to count.
I’m currently installing the three way version of these. Taking a break, had to custom make mods for the mid range. Can’t wait to finish and hear the difference.
Sweet. How did it go? Have you had a chance to listen to them yet?
@@carstereochick it went great and yes it was definitely far better than I expected. I’m happy with them!
New subscriber and a like for the fact your content is detailed, explanatory and above all I'm finding very technical details in TLDR that are spot on.
- BT even connected to my Alpine PXE-C80-88 HiRes DSP BT dongle, Tidal Android app DISPLAY drops down to "High" from FLAC OR MOA, many skip that info but huge difference.
- speaker cone material was important to me with an SQ system, so I chose HDZ-65cs, and it was a tough choice between R2-65c both being Hi-Res since I always source FLAC from USB
- Alpine TRK-R2 twin 8" dvc w/ S2-A60M 600w mono since PXE cant be bridged on 2 dedicated sub channels at 150w each
Anyway, first video for me and going to watch more
Thanks again
Nice to hear your review. More detailed description along with comparisons.
Thank you!
I like the mid material but was skeptical on the tweeter material, great review, thanks
Thank you so much for watching!
I’m looking into buying the new Alpine DSP C80 but I’m having trouble finding a solid mid base driver to make an active system with the DSP. It seems like everybody’s going back to components which I love but I really would like to run a good 4 inch tweeter. I’m looking for a solid 6 1/2 or 6 x 9 midday driver that I can actively crossover.
anyone know how the R2 series fares against the X series ?
@carstereochick any chance you've had these next to the Pioneer TS-Z65CH components? How do they compare?
Great review video, thank you!
I have a Honda Civic EX, and I am looking to upgrade the stock speakers. I may consider Alpine R2-S65C, but I am not sure if these work well with the stock head unit. Otherwise, I will go with Alpine S2-S65C. Any suggestions?
Sorry for the late reply, but efficiency is key when upgrading speakers with a stock head unit. As much as I like Alpine I would steer you towards JBL, Infinity or even PowerBass has some 2 ohm options. Something with 92 or 93 dB efficiency. Also I'd highly encourage you to do full sound dampening in the doors (inner and outer skins) plus fast rings which will really help to cut down on road noise and create a better cabinet for the speakers so you can actually hear more of the sound from the speakers and less road noise.
I got the standard version of these installed about a month ago along with the Optim8 DSP Amp. The tweeters are in the factory location in the A-pillars. I ended up crossing them over at 90Hz. The install was done properly with utilization of sound deadening and hush mat. I am very impressed with the DSP with the "AutoEQ" that measures the sound in your car and corrects it for you. It's truly amazing, and is kind of a "must have" item in my opinion. These did NOT sound good in my vehicle prior to EQ'ing everything due to a 10dB spike from 6khz to 8khz (because of tweeter location) and various other acoustic issues with most cars. I would agree with the comments made about the sound quality. These things are really incredible when it comes to the details and accurate music reproduction. I have found that they are capable of doing whatever is asked of them, for the most part. Meaning that they perform well enough to be tuned to your preference, and will provide nice separation and accuracy. I'm hearing instruments deep into the mix that I never knew were there. I can't really comment on loudness vs other speakers. Again, DSP is pretty much required - especially since these don't have that natural roll-off like silk dome tweeters. Great job, Alpine!
So bought the component set, but then got rid of the passive crossover and use the DSP to cross everything over?
@@julesbruchez-theartofgrapp9646 Yes, except I actually left the passive crossovers to protect the tweeters. The passives are set at 2kHz, but I raised it to 3.5 kHz at a 12db slope on the DSP because it sounded better to me. Most people who know car audio recommend 3 to 4 kHz for a regular 1” tweeter with a setup like this. I spent more time messing with the target curve in the iPhone app than actually setting up the channel mix and crossovers in the dsp.
@@rexhouseo7010 How is the C80? I am on the fence about getting the DSP. I just saw a video on the last DSP and Amp combo Alpine had and the ratings were shit on the power side. The DSP was great and so was the low-level RCA outputs. But the output speaker leads were bad. They produced a lot of distortion even at low levels. I REALLY want the C80 but I am so nervous due to so little people out there with it.
I would love to know your experience
@@julesbruchez-theartofgrapp9646 I like it. It was really the only thing that would achieve what I needed. I’d probably consider running a dedicated sub amp if I had more than one 8”. DIY mobile audio has a great technical review.
@@rexhouseo7010 I decided to go with the C60 same tunning possibilities just no amp. I drove my self nuts back and forth with different possibilities with time alignment for different parts in the future. My current set up is pretty decent. Where it’s at. I could get a little bit more nitpick but for now it’s really pretty awesome without a DSP. I can’t imagine when it’s going to be like when I hit that auto EQ function and start tuning everything out.
I did decide to break down and buy a JL audio or D 900/5. I will use them right now on my front stage components which are six by nines so I’m getting a pretty decent amount of midbass.
It’s more my next vehicle I’m concerned with as I move into probably 6 1/2’s in the front. I think I’m just gonna buy a decent three-way component set and master the installing to make sure I represent the soundstage perfectly, but instead of focusing on trying to get a lot of midbass out of 6 1/2 even though I know that’s possible, if constructed properly , especially if they’re not installed into the doors. That fifth channel on the JL audio amp is going to run a Shalam mount JL, audio 8 inch woofer in the front. I’ll either put it under the dash or somewhere under the seats, the creative better midbass soundstage in the front.
I already have a kicker mono Blanc amp will run a subwoofers in the back
Hello Annie I was just going through your video hoping to find a video about subwoofer. The reason I’m here is I need help with tuning my amp correctly. I currently have two 12” jl audio tw3 running them with a jl audio 1000/1D JX and a audio control epicenter. Both sub are in a ground shaker sealed box facing down in my 2017 chevy crew cab. I am also using my stock stereo.
I would appreciate your help. Thank you 😊
Ooh, that's tough to answer in a comment. I have it on our list of videos to make to do an amp/sub tuning with a stock head unit because it's actually a bit more complicated than if we're tuning with an aftermarket head unit. John can chime in more about the epicenter when he's got some time, but I'll try and give you some basics.
Have you determined where you're grabbing audio signal. Not sure if yours is the stock Bose and in that case we're probably grabbing signal at the stock sub or we're using something like the PAC APSUB-GM61 (if you can find one - gives you a clean pre-amp level signal before the stock Bose amp). Or if non Bose, it's probably going to be tapped off the front door speakers.
But we always check and test 1st. John will use a tone generator to determine which speakers are producing the signal we need to make sure nothing is filtered/crossed over from the factory. He also checks the voltage to make sure it's not too much input signal for the amp or line output converter to handle. Then after that he will play test tones (40 Hz and 1 kHz) and measure to see at what point the stock head unit starts to send a clipped signal. Once you know where you're getting signal and what your max safe volume level is on the radio, then you can start adjusting your gains.
Some aftermarket amps or line output converters have clipping indicator lights built in, but I don't think either of those products have that feature. The epicenter does complicate the process because you then basically need to check it again after that because you need to make sure whatever processing you have going on there is not then taking that signal and distorting it in any way.
Best bet would be to use an Oscilloscope to check it on the output side of your Epicenter and then adjust the jumpers as need on the Epicenter. Once you're certain you have a clean signal from there going into your amp and you know your safe max volume level on the head unit you can play that 40 Hz test tone again and with an Oscilloscope connected at the speaker level output of the amp, you can bring up the gains making sure the signal is clean. Once you think you have it an appropriate output level, you can start playing tunes and make sure you have the right blend. It's a bit of back and forth sometimes between testing and adjusting to get it dialed in. If you don't have an Oscilloscope you can look into getting a basic combo Oscilloscope/Multimeter on Amazon. We have our fancy one I use in a lot of head unit testing videos, but we also have a simpler $80 one off Amazon that works well for basic testing like this. You'd also want some RCA to speaker lead adapters to make the testing on the output side of the Epicenter easier. I hope that is helpful!!!
I'm drawn to these quite a bit. I like accurate & tight and I like my bass fast. My question to you is about soundstage. When set up correctly how detailed is the soundstage and are there there other brands I should be looking at that perform at this level & price point which really are able to give me that wide spatial experience?
The sound stage can be very detailed even for both driver and passenger when set up correctly. I took a listen to these in my Alpine reps personal vehicle and she has it going through their new processor, the Optim8, running bi-amped, no rears and sound stage was spot on. That is an awesome DSP by the way. Amazing that it was able to give me the illusion of a centered sound stage for passenger and same for driver at the same time.
Talking about the tweeter specifically, personally I prefer a Morel tweeter because they are a bit more delicate while still maintaining a very open and airy sound. The Alpine tweeter is definitely more pronounced and crisp, but still not as bright as I would have expected it to be for a hard dome tweeter. In fact, it's incredibly smooth for a hard dome tweeter. The thing to keep in mind is Morel may have a more airy tweeter, but they are usually lacking in mid bass and that would be quite noticeable if you were to do a side by side comparison.
For the $399 price point, these speakers have a great balance and performance that is hard to beat. If you can find a shop that carries both, I would recommend listening to these and the Morel Tempo Ultra 602. And listen to both with and without a sub if possible.
@@carstereochick you’re the best! Thx for the response, lastly. If I have a 12 speaker stock setup (MB Harmon Kardon) do I need to replace all 12 or will I have a good result with the 8 doors and powered sub? The other speakers are a single 3 in the dash, two 3s in the package tray and the factory sub also in the package tray.
Interesting. I sell audio and can get whatever I'd like for the most part, but I definitely prefer a silk dome tweet. I've got some last gen Type R 6x9's I haven't installed yet (For my regular cab Silverado) and I think they've got a silk dome. If there was something substantially better, I would strongly consider it. I'm a Focal dealer too. (For the home so I'm not familiar with the car product) How do you like the Alpine Status speakers? How's the tweet? I'll probably stick with a 2-way tweets in the dash, and woofer in the door. On a side note, these Type R crossovers might as well be mounted to the speakers, they're just a big empty box with three tiny parts in them.
Hi, Great review.
Just one question. Even if we use wired carplay and playing those hi-res files from apple music, will they be lossless or downsampled? Because I read on apple support that wired carplay does support lossless audio but I haven't had chance to test it. Thanks
Just found your channel! Good stuff.
Thank you!
I’ve just had the R Series Pro’s installed in a Renault Trafic van. The tweeters are set at -3db and are running off the 11 inch Alpine Halo head unit. In a lot of songs the highs seem a little too prominent for my liking. I’m waiting on an Alpine Status 5 channel amp to run them and also the 10 inch shallow sub the same as you refer to (which is not yet connected). I’m hoping this will significantly improve the overall sound.
Thanks for your review, it played a major role in my choice.
I think you will find with the upgraded amp (and sub) a dramatic difference in performance. I wouldn't sell these speakers to someone who wanted to power them off the head unit only. I understand it sounds like you're doing your upgrade in phases, but I think perhaps part of the issue is these are very power hungry speakers, not very efficient. And the amp built into the 11" Halo is not significant.
I definitely recommend giving them at least 75 watts RMS, ideally 100 watts RMS. I think once you give them the proper power, you will be quite happy :) ALSO - in one of our videos John adjusted the EQ on the iLX-507 and we've had a lot of feedback from viewers and end users that this made a big difference in sound quality. You may want to try applying and see if it smooths it out a bit: ua-cam.com/video/TSdQj1DbaZ8/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared&t=655
Lastly - tweeter position can also be a factor. What year is your vehicle? I looked up the van and cringed after seeing the factory tweeter location on the newer models. GM did something very similar in their pick up trucks 2007 - 2013 and it is like the WORST place for tweeters. They're on the pillars, but almost pointing inwards towards the glass which is just horrible for sound stage and reflection. How are the tweeters mounted in your van? Are they coming at you? Or mounted on the pillars sort of facing each other/the glass? Sometimes for applications like this we order some tweeter pods from ValiCar Stuttgart so we can really aim them properly.
@@carstereochick Thankyou for such a detailed reply. I feel a whole lot more confident that it’s going to sound a lot better once the amp (Alpine HDA-V90 Alpine Status Hi-Res Audio 5 Channel Amplifier)arrives and gets installed. I originally had an Alpine R-Series 6/5/4/3 Channel Power Amplifier - R-A90S to get installed but apparently this wasn’t suitable to power the subwoofer hence why it was just installed with the head unit powering the 6 1/2 inch components.
The tweeters are facing towards driver and passenger. It’s a 2018 model and are mounted in the upper panel between side mirrors and pillars. Thanks again for taking the time to reply and give such valuable feedback.
The way I heard Hi-Res explained is that it rolls off the highs much further in the frequency band so that it doesn't roll off any treble info before 20k
I have heard it explained this way as well and I think that is accurate, but I found this explanation to be a lot more relatable and easier for clients or those who aren't exactly tech savvy to understand.
@@carstereochick have you found need a ton of dynamat installed to hear the Hi-Res difference while driving? Seems like road noise might negate a lot of the improvements.
Great review! I have a '13 Jeep Wrangler 2dr. Installed an Alpine i509 WRA JK, Alpine 455U Amp, Kicker 11HS8 Sub and 4 Kicker 6.5 speakers. Great system for me. I'd like to install the R2-S652 system you talked about. But, I don't need 2 sets of speakers that yields an extra pair of tweeters. Is the R Series available w/o tweeters?
Great question, yes, just not in the Pro series. So you could do the R2-S652 for the front lower dash mids and upper dash tweeters and a set of the R2-S65 coaxials (tweeter built in) for the sound bar. Nice set up by the way!
Hello, do you think she has as good a voice as Morel?
Hello, great overview on these speakers. I have a 2015 Mustang premium and I’ve replaced all the speakers with Massive Audio (junk I know) and I’m pushing everything with Rockford Fosgate Punch amps. I want to replace the components with these and I’m wondering if they would fit the stock location. Thank you.
Hi, thanks for watching! They would with some Metra speaker adapters 82-FD1. Also, I hope you're running this either through an aftermarket head unit OR you're using a Pre-amp adapter or DSP with the factory head unit?
Morel elates are beautiful 😍
Yes they are! One of my favorites :)
“If using Apple CarPlay, the file tops out at 20,000Hz anyways.” Please explain. I thought streaming Amazon Music or Apple Music with a subscription is actually streaming much higher quality, showing a badge of “Lossless” for 44.1kHz and “Lossless High-Resolution” for 96kHz and/or 192kHz.
Working on a plan to upgrade my 2019 Toyota RAV4 Limited with JBL. Head unit choices are very limited. For now.
My understanding is this is a limitation of Apple CarPlay specifically and in order to get the higher resolution you need to use a separate DAC. I've talked to a couple manufacturers about this to get clarity, but the key takeaway I got was when you're using CarPlay, you are limited to CD quality max and that for the higher res capability you need an external DAC which wouldn't be compatible with CarPlay.
@@carstereochick yes…and well, maybe no?! Vaguely reassuring, I know. Coming from home audio, I chose what I wanted in hardware and then checked the viable pathways. Speakers are truly the limiting factor. Without rehashing wifi CarPlay vs USB, AC told me the frequency fed in will be allowed to bypass out for the DM-810. DAC or no, feed a 24/96kHz signal in, it will feed completely out to each speaker per crossover setting. Ok, check. The Sony 4-ch A/B Xm-GS4 will allow for 10-100kHz signal. Ok, check. Currently only 4 tweeters that I know of go above 40kHz anyway, 3 from BLAM 40/43/45kHz and the TBM from focal 50kHz. So, 48kHz frequency to do 96kHz sampling (Nyquist-Shannon theorem) is as high as I could expect with the TBM. Keeping the price reasonable, I’ll stick with the Sony Mobile ES speakers over the Alpine R2-S series and call it a day. It will be a tremendous improvement. Thoughts?
What do you think of these Pros vs the Status line?
These alpines , Kenwood xr1801p or Jl audio jlc3650 ?
Totally a personal preference. Personally I find the C3's a bit muted, very soft on the top end (which if you have sensitive ears may prefer) nice heavy mid - definitely power hungry. The Kenwood's have a nice tonal balance and a crisp top end. When clients hear these Alpine's against several options we have on display like the Kenwood XR's, JL C2's, Morel Maximo Ultra series, Kicker KS I would say 7 out of 10 prefer the tonal balance and crisp, clean highs of these Pro R2's. Those with sensitivity towards top end will gravitate towards the JL C2, Morel Maximo Ultra or Kicker KS which all have a soft dome tweeter.
What’s the best 3 way component for a warm sound? I’m trying to decide on JL Audio C7,Focal Utopia M,Morel Supremo. All three in a 3way setup.
Can I ask why you want to do a 3-way? What vehicle? Are you using A-pillar mounts for tweeter and mid? Or what is the placement situation like? What DSP are you using? I'm assuming you'll be running active? The reason I ask all that is in our experience, unless you have the mid and tweet in the right location or precisely time aligned, the additional separation of components can create imaging and sound quality issues. Based on the level of quality speakers you're asking about, it sounds like you have that all dialed in and covered.
From my listening experience - I found the JL C7 3-way to be quite mid heavy (too much for my taste personally). Focal Utopia are just sublime, they're incredible! Have only heard/installed the 2-ways. Same thing with the Morel Supremo, I think that's actually only available in a 2-way, but I suppose you could build it out to a 3-way. Again a lot of the performance will vary depending on how you set it up, what amp, DSP etc. but I would say the Focal mids are more vibrant/natural and lively. And that Beryllium tweeter is just something else. I love Morel too, because of the natural detail, delicateness and smoothness of their tweeters. It depends on what your ears are geared towards. Personally I need the smoother top end of the Morel tweeters, but the Utopia is also top notch.
I've had 3way ARC Audio black series setup in a mini Cooper with a arc audio ps8 with a class a Amp and a 10 inch sub enclosed front stage was awesome now I have a Ford transit connect titanium and I want to do something special so far I've only purchased Audison 8 channel dsp amplifier and I'm leaning towards 8 inch subs will have to do custom mid range pods in the a pillar all four doors take a 6.5 speaker today a friend mentioned Alpine status 3way setup my music source will mainly be Pandora and Tidal
@carstereochick choice of tweeters are very important I know Focal Utopia M has a nice Beryllium tweeter and I have heard Morel tweeters also. More less I'm looking for a Wow sound experience for myself and especially from a would be passenger/passenger's LOL
Focal Utopia and Morel Supremo are both top notch and I'm glad to hear you are planning on doing custom pods for placement because that is key. There is a company we order from in Germany sometimes for installs like this, called Valicar Stuttgart. They make some cool little tweeter and mid enclosures that can be mounted on the A-pillar or dash.
One of our clients did 2 sets of Supremo's with Helix Class A/B amps and an older Audison Bit One running optical out of the stock head unit and another client went for the Focal Utopia BE series front sound stage only (both were 2-ways actually) with a Mosconi Pro amp and Audison Bit One HD. They were both incredible. I would say between the 2, the Morel tweeter is definitely more delicate/easier on the ears. Focal has a greater presence. Their commanding and truly captivating. With proper tuning and set up, you can't go wrong with either option, but I hope that gives you a good idea of the tonal differences.
If you want a “warm” sound, forget about hard dome tweeters.
Morel would be your best bet.
Focal and Alpine are very harsh sounding.
JL i have no idea, not very common in Europe.
I would look into Steg speakers for a great warm sound.
How’s the bass output on these two shown… looking to upgrade my factory speakers but don’t want the weight of a sub… ps I like my alternator lol
Look into something low profile for a sub, forget about getting it from your door speakers and if you're adamant about not doing a sub, make sure you sound dampen the doors completely. Even the best 6.5" car audio speakers available (think Morel Supremo or Focal Utopia series - $$$$) will still need a subwoofer. We can hear down to 20 Hz, but the average 6.5" speaker can really only play down to about 50 - 80 Hz, but even then, not very effectively or not at a level that's really highly audible/impactful. Once you add in road noise/tire noise/exhaust noise - which tends to resonate around the same frequency range, you can barely hear the bass. Adding a subwoofer, with the larger surface area and more power with the separate amplifier allows us to add in that natural frequency range that is in our music recordings, that simply isn't effectively reproduced by a 6.5" speaker.
Having said that - if your vehicle accommodates the 6x9 component or coax, with good clean power, properly sound dampened and tuned, you'll get a good amount of mid bass for sure. But nothing like a real subwoofer.
@@carstereochick thx for ur prompt and detailed response, love the low end bass of a sub but trying not the add weight to my car for those occasional track days… that’s why I wanted some higher RMS wattage speakers thanks again
Do you think these would work well with kicker key 200.4? If so what sub would you recommend for a Kicker key 500.1? Going in a small suv. Thanks!
That's a great little amp! I think if you're planning on running active, front sound stage only, yes. If you plan on using that as a 4-channel for front and rear, it might be a little under powered. I guess it depends on how loud you like it and how much head room you want. There are lots of great subs that would work with your sub amp. The answer REALLY depends on a lot of factors. I'm always asking clients if space is a concern, what kind of set up they've had in previous cars that they've enjoyed (or didn't enjoy) to get an idea of whether or not they'd prefer sealed (tighter, punchier, less efficient, smaller enclosure) or ported (more output, increased efficiency, but not quite as tight or defined, larger enclosure). Assuming you're looking for a pre-fab solution, for something compact, punchy and tight, you may want to consider the JL Audio CS110TG-TW3. For a great pre-fab solution ported, either the Alpine S-SB12V or a Kicker Comp R 48VCWR122. If you're looking to build yourself a small, sealed enclosure, I'm a fan of the new Audio Control Shallow subs. Super efficient, tight and punchy available in 10" or 12", 400 watts RMS.
@@carstereochick Front and rear but I'm looking for a little boost and more about sound correction. Currently it sounds terrible. Encore GX
Planning Virtus 602 components and maximo coaxial. Thoughts?
Subwoofer, you're correct at 10" sealed. Don't like bass sloppy. Space is a concern. I even considered the JBL Stadium BassHub.
It's funny you mention the Stadium BassHub. I had actually typed it as a suggestion and then erased it because I didn't know what you were driving and that thing does not fit in every car. I hate getting clients hopes up about it. It's one of those things where I say, "I might have a really cool solution, but I need to see your car and test fit it before I explain" because it's such a bummer when it doesn't fit! If it fits however? That thing sounds awesome and takes up zero space. I think you have great taste in speakers. The Maximo's are quite efficient and would be fine with that power. The Virtus 602 should be okay, but keep in mind, they can take a lot more than that.
I have alpine type x all around that’s been blown how would these stack up as replacements ?
Ask yourself first how the hell you blow up X speakers?
Personally I think the previous discontinued X speakers were far more refined. The new Status series would be a more accurate replacement for that model. It's a shame your X's need replacing. When you do upgrade, be sure to tune your amp using an oscilloscope and test tone frequencies so you can make sure the signal is not getting clipped.
Between Sony ES , Alpine R2-652 , Audison 165-P what do you recommend?
This is definitely a personal preference as everyone's perception and hearing varies. Also saw you asking about the JL C2's on another video as well. They all have very different characteristics. Personally, I would like the Sony's because I like the open and airy tonality of the tweeter. It's quite detailed, but still very smooth. Whereas some clients prefer the crispness and punchiness of the Alpine R2 series, and yet for others, the hard dome tweeter can come off as a bit harsh. Clients that are very sensitive to top end frequencies gravitate towards the JL C2's which are very smooth. Yet others would find their tweeter somewhat muted. Everyone's ears are different so there is no right or wrong answer. The Audison Prima's are another great contender, but it's been quite some time since I've heard them. I had them in an older BMW at one point and would say that even though they have a soft dome tweeter, their tweeter is definitely more pronounced than the C2's.
@@carstereochick thanks so much for the info I am going for Sony ES
@@autoignite8179
How's the Sony es Speakers any regrets and how's the bass?
How do the new type Rs compare to infinity kappas?
Great question. Unfortunately it's been years since I've listened to a set of Infinity Kappas. The last set I listened to - personally I found them to be a little bit too bright and crispy for me on the top end. The current model may be smoother, but I haven't heard them. Overall I find the R2-S652's to be pleasantly crisp, but without being too bright or harsh. I hope that's helpful!
What do you think about the new S2 series hi res speakers?
They sound more efficient and generally have a crisp and balanced tone compared to the previous generation S series. Very different materials and tweeter. But the R2's are definitely the more popular choice among clients.
Question how do i hook these up i see theres a wf & mid on the reciever as well as tw so what would i use? Wf or mid
What are you hooking this up to? Usually if you're using 3-way network mode on an aftermarket head unit, in the crossover settings the wf is referring to your actual subwoofer, mid as the front door mid range and tw for tweeter. These include a standard passive crossover network with a woofer connection, tweeter connection and input connection. If you want to run actively you can, BUT it's super important that you dial in the crossover on whatever head unit you're using to what Alpine recommends. I was trying to look it up for you, but was surprised to see it's not specified in the owner's manual. Definitely reach out to them and see what Alpine recommends based on the options you have in your head unit.
@@carstereochick thanks got it figured out i have the 2 way component not the 3 way Component
I cant stop looking at her eyes 😍😅
Solid vod tbh. 1 thing tho. Focal; pronounced a lot like “Pal”. Saying focal like you did sounds like we talking about a camera 😂
Someone else commented on this as well and it's so funny, because I realize I say it both ways for good reason. It's either Focal or Fo-Cal depending on what client I'm chatting with. As a salesperson, I naturally adopt the language my clients use because I instinctively don't want to make them feel foolish or insult them by correcting them.
If a client comes in and pronounces it Focal, I call it Focal. If they call if Fo-Cal, I call it Fo-Cal. If they ask me how it's pronounced I tell them it's French, Fo-Cal. It's just a habit I've learned over the years and I guess when I'm on camera I forget what client I'm talking to or maybe it's the fact that I'm talking to potentially many different clients and some will pronounce it Focal and some will pronounce it Fo-Cal.
@@carstereochick hey that’s good business practice 😄😄😄
Other than the crossovers, are the pros the same as the regular Type R? If I was going active is there any benefit to the pros?
This definitely feels like a more solid driver due to the aluminum cast basket which is more rigid. The standard series has a polymer cast basket, similar to the previous generation R series. The rigidity of the aluminum basket does help to improve performance by reducing flex (distortion) and it also is more efficient in dissipating heat than a polymer basket. However, both series utilize the glass fiber cone and hard magnesium dome tweeter. Great question!
🔥👍
Thank you :)
Now they just need a amp that can cover that rms.
They have one! The R2-A60F 😊
@@carstereochick would the Phoenix Gold MX600w be enough to power these?
Anything over 50 watts rms will do fine .
Yes , we need More female audiophile reviewers....I mean👍
Thank you! I will say there are definitely more women in this industry now than when I started out 20+ years ago :)
If a HiRes file plays in a forest, and no one can hear it, does it make a sound? ;)
Ha! So true, well said ;)
Yes, we need female audiophile reviewers.
It's pronounced Fo-cal, French
Excusez-moi! You know, I did say it that way at one point. I say it both ways because from my experience the American way is how most consumers pronounce it if I’m showing them options and asking them which speakers they prefer. I don’t like making a client feel dumb if they mispronounce it. So I generally just roll with how they pronounce it. Pro sales tip!
@@carstereochick ha I'd make a horrible sales person and I know it. You do seem pretty good at it. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Almost bought a set. 👍
Sponsored by Alpine.
Lol. Alpine actually sent me a cease and desist letter when I did a less than flattering honest review on their off road GPS. I had to take that video down. In fairness, I made this video before I was aware of that non disparage clause and I actually do point out/criticize some of their more questionable feature choices in my head unit reviews.
You can’t hear a single freq over 16k, check and u will see
I tried with some Sony WH-1000XM4 headphones! You are correct. Some people can hear over that, but I find it doubtful anyone would be able to perceive it in a car traveling down the road.