I have a 1999 Dodge RAM 2500 w/5.9 24 Valve engine. I also have the OFFICIAL Dodge Service Manual. Below are the settings as per this manual. Hope it helps someone. If measured valve lash falls within these specifications no adjustment/reset is necessary. Engine operation within these ranges has to adverse affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or level of engine noise. Intake Exhaust Minimum Minimum 0.152 mm (0.006 in.) 0.381 mm (0.015 in.) Maximum Maximum 0.381 mm (0.015 in.) 0.762 mm (0.038 in.) If adjustment is necessary, use the settings below: Exhaust: 0.020 Intake: 0.010 Top Dead Center Intake: 1-2-4 Exhaust: 1-3-5 ----------------------------------- Bottom Dead Center Intake: 3-5-6 Exhaust: 2-4-6
@@alexkiller22k That should not need adjusting. That is what holds the rocker arm. If the rocker arm bolt is loose that means you probably have to replace it. That would require a torque specification.
Showed the easiest part of adjusting the lash...what wasn't shown and would have made the video worthwhile would be actually finding TDC, rotating the engine with the special tool. I have no idea where it goes.
Chris Johnston the tool I think you're talking about is the barring tool. If you look on the adapter plate, the metal piece that connects the transmission to the engine, on the passenger side you'll see metal piece about in the 10 o'clock position. Loosen those bolts and the cover will rotate out of the way. That's where the barring tool goes. If you didn't already find the answer
Exactly... I don’t really understand why more people don’t just do that? I do have to move over a bolt every so often but as long as you know when your at that point it’s not an issue.. It’s too bad the barring tool cannot be accessed from above the engine, If I have to get under the vehicle I just use a bright marker to make the line for TDC very clear, and while I’m there I rotate to TDC - no specialty tools required. 15mm socket on a breaker bar ratchet, start at one of the crank damper bolts in around the 3 o’clock position, slowly rotate engine in clockwise rotation until you get to the 9 o’clock position. Than I move to the bolt in the 3 o’clock position and repeat the process until I hit TDC again. Just to clarify - the torque on the harmonic balancer bolts is more than it takes to turn the engine over so the balancer bolts are not actually being tightened
Was pretty good. however was not very detailed. This instructor forgot to mention if engine should be on TDC before first adjustment and how to know if on TDC. Good thing there's back up videos
You may want to watch this again. the first minute or so discusses placing the engine at TDC. It's a fairly straightforward procedure. What more detail would you suggest be added?
Getting the engine at TDC is a fairly straightforward process. Use the tool shown in the video. It goes in the back of the engine. Look for a plate on the back of the engine that is shaped like a snowman. I would not recommend doing this procedure if you can't figure out TDC on an engine.
You are correct, why bother making a video if you don't include the information. It's like somebody giving you a recipe and not including the ingredients.
@@eddieball1924 this is the equivalent of a cooking video leaving out how to turn the oven on. If you don't know how to turn the oven on then the video is obviously not for you.
@kourmoulis1 - Interesting, so are you saying people are born knowing/should automatically know how to find TDC(?) If so, you could cut the arrogance with a knife. Last I checked, people acquire various skills/knowledge of such things at vastly different times in their lives a/k/a what is common knowledge or a learned skill for one person, may not be the same for someone just getting started with engine maintenance/repair. Why someone would film a procedure that calls for setting TDC and not film the procedure... is pretty half-assed. btw, your "stove" analogy doesn't work, since it fails the apples-to-apples comparison. "Turning on a stove" would be the equivalent of knowing how to "turn on a vehicle." Knowing how to "turn on an oven" is not the same as "setting an engine to TDC." If it was like "turning on a stove" that would be pretty awesome.
This only covers intake lash. Exhaust lash is different 15 thousands to 30 thousands of an inch. Also important to disconnect negative battery cables. Do your homework folks.
I have a 2005 5.9 196k miles. If I don't have any noises or running problems I don't need to even check these? Mike seems to be fine. Guys in FB groups are saying every 100 to 150k miles to check them.
Too much lash could cause a noisy valvetrain. It's possible that the valves wouldn't open as far as they are supposed to. They may cause a lack of power. If the lash is too little then you may experience mushroomed valve stems. It's also possible that your valve would not fully close. Best practice is to keep the lash at specifications.
Also if you have a misfire on one cylinder, and you can tell by listening to the engine crank (or doing a relative compression test) that one cylinder has poor compression- checking valve lash may be helpful. If one has WAY too much lash it indicates a valve seat has likely dropped out of place or a valve is badly bent.
It's best to rotate it in the direction that it rotates while running. standing at the front of the engine looking towards the front cover the crabk should rotate clockwise.
Good Video i have a " Princes Auto - POWER FIST Stud Remover " to Fit in the HOLE of the Crankshaft to Bar the Engine Over !!! ( Canada ) in the USA - Harboufreight
It's on the crank damper...it's marked TDC... rotate it to 12 o'clock position then check for play on intake and exhaust valve on #1 cyl. If those are not loose then it's at 180degrees out ready to fire cyl. #6
Highlander 44 I've got 2- 1/2 inch wide notches, 180 degrees apart. There's no pointer atop to align these with, if it's the markings for TDC, which I assume the notches are for ... 97 model.
I have a 1999 Dodge RAM 2500 w/5.9 24 Valve engine. I also have the OFFICIAL Dodge Service Manual. Below are the settings as per this manual. Hope it helps someone.
If measured valve lash falls within these specifications no adjustment/reset is necessary. Engine operation within these ranges has to adverse affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or level of engine noise.
Intake Exhaust
Minimum Minimum
0.152 mm (0.006 in.) 0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
Maximum Maximum
0.381 mm (0.015 in.) 0.762 mm (0.038 in.)
If adjustment is necessary, use the settings below:
Exhaust: 0.020
Intake: 0.010
Top Dead Center
Intake: 1-2-4
Exhaust: 1-3-5
-----------------------------------
Bottom Dead Center
Intake: 3-5-6
Exhaust: 2-4-6
What is the middle bolt supposed to be set
@@alexkiller22k
That should not need adjusting. That is what holds the rocker arm.
If the rocker arm bolt is loose that means you probably have to replace it.
That would require a torque specification.
That’s one very clean engine nice video
Thank you for sharing :) very helpful
Showed the easiest part of adjusting the lash...what wasn't shown and would have made the video worthwhile would be actually finding TDC, rotating the engine with the special tool. I have no idea where it goes.
Chris Johnston the tool I think you're talking about is the barring tool. If you look on the adapter plate, the metal piece that connects the transmission to the engine, on the passenger side you'll see metal piece about in the 10 o'clock position. Loosen those bolts and the cover will rotate out of the way. That's where the barring tool goes. If you didn't already find the answer
The easy way is put a 24 mm on the alternator and turn engine with it
Turn the engine buy placing a socket on the alternator nut, then rotating it counterclockwise. WAAYYY easier
15 mm socket on harmonic balancer bolt, one hand to rotate engine
Exactly... I don’t really understand why more people don’t just do that? I do have to move over a bolt every so often but as long as you know when your at that point it’s not an issue.. It’s too bad the barring tool cannot be accessed from above the engine, If I have to get under the vehicle I just use a bright marker to make the line for TDC very clear, and while I’m there I rotate to TDC - no specialty tools required. 15mm socket on a breaker bar ratchet, start at one of the crank damper bolts in around the 3 o’clock position, slowly rotate engine in clockwise rotation until you get to the 9 o’clock position. Than I move to the bolt in the 3 o’clock position and repeat the process until I hit TDC again. Just to clarify - the torque on the harmonic balancer bolts is more than it takes to turn the engine over so the balancer bolts are not actually being tightened
Was pretty good. however was not very detailed. This instructor forgot to mention if engine should be on TDC before first adjustment and how to know if on TDC. Good thing there's back up videos
You may want to watch this again. the first minute or so discusses placing the engine at TDC. It's a fairly straightforward procedure. What more detail would you suggest be added?
Scott Hadzik
Such as where the marks are for TDC maybe?
@@scotthadzik7677 He doesn't show where the tdc mark is on the crankshaft pulley or the timing cover.
forgot a very minor detail how to set TDC on this engine
Getting the engine at TDC is a fairly straightforward process. Use the tool shown in the video. It goes in the back of the engine. Look for a plate on the back of the engine that is shaped like a snowman.
I would not recommend doing this procedure if you can't figure out TDC on an engine.
You are correct, why bother making a video if you don't include the information. It's like somebody giving you a recipe and not including the ingredients.
@@eddieball1924 this is the equivalent of a cooking video leaving out how to turn the oven on. If you don't know how to turn the oven on then the video is obviously not for you.
@40 seconds
@kourmoulis1 - Interesting, so are you saying people are born knowing/should automatically know how to find TDC(?) If so, you could cut the arrogance with a knife. Last I checked, people acquire various skills/knowledge of such things at vastly different times in their lives a/k/a what is common knowledge or a learned skill for one person, may not be the same for someone just getting started with engine maintenance/repair. Why someone would film a procedure that calls for setting TDC and not film the procedure... is pretty half-assed. btw, your "stove" analogy doesn't work, since it fails the apples-to-apples comparison. "Turning on a stove" would be the equivalent of knowing how to "turn on a vehicle." Knowing how to "turn on an oven" is not the same as "setting an engine to TDC." If it was like "turning on a stove" that would be pretty awesome.
This only covers intake lash. Exhaust lash is different 15 thousands to 30 thousands of an inch. Also important to disconnect negative battery cables. Do your homework folks.
I have a 2005 5.9 196k miles. If I don't have any noises or running problems I don't need to even check these? Mike seems to be fine.
Guys in FB groups are saying every 100 to 150k miles to check them.
If it's never been done, it's probably a good idea to check them.
Oh your right! sorry. In that case. You've pretty much covered it all. Well done.
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How often do you recommend doing this?
I believe service information recommends this every 100,000 miles
@@ScottHadzik Thank you 😊
What kind of problems can valve lash cause?
Too much lash could cause a noisy valvetrain. It's possible that the valves wouldn't open as far as they are supposed to. They may cause a lack of power. If the lash is too little then you may experience mushroomed valve stems. It's also possible that your valve would not fully close. Best practice is to keep the lash at specifications.
Also if you have a misfire on one cylinder, and you can tell by listening to the engine crank (or doing a relative compression test) that one cylinder has poor compression- checking valve lash may be helpful. If one has WAY too much lash it indicates a valve seat has likely dropped out of place or a valve is badly bent.
I feel like I'm being taught by gary sinise
i have a 12v does it matter witch way the engine is rotated?
It's best to rotate it in the direction that it rotates while running. standing at the front of the engine looking towards the front cover the crabk should rotate clockwise.
thank you
Good Video
i have a " Princes Auto - POWER FIST Stud Remover " to Fit in the HOLE of the Crankshaft to Bar the Engine Over !!! ( Canada )
in the USA - Harboufreight
He only showed you the intake adjustment. Intake is .006 min and max is .015. The exhaust is .015 min and max is .030.
does that go for my 2006 too? thanks for the info
I thought the same. I wonder how many people screwed up their exhaust lash?
Did you just call it an 04 vintage
can you help me to find TDC my engine has no markings to point out TDC
It's on the crank damper...it's marked TDC... rotate it to 12 o'clock position then check for play on intake and exhaust valve on #1 cyl. If those are not loose then it's at 180degrees out ready to fire cyl. #6
Highlander 44 I've got 2- 1/2 inch wide notches, 180 degrees apart. There's no pointer atop to align these with, if it's the markings for TDC, which I assume the notches are for ... 97 model.
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5.9 cummins 24valve coomon rail
🙋