The alligator clip is scratching that centre pin terribly. Braiding before soldering would be best. The drain blue wire is excellent idea almost like an XLR connection!
Yes, it is. I got it for like $20 at an industrial auction. Opened it up, cleaned it, lubricated it, and tightened up the jackscrew, works perfectly! Gotta love a Wilton, and it's older than me!
Good job with that cable. Cool idea using the extra wire as a ground wire. I bet they’d be good on turntables. Did you measure the capacitance and/or resistance of the cable of the length you built? Thanks very much! 🔊😊🎶
I have measured it, i didn't include that in the video. Maybe I will do a cable test video, i usually test them with my Audio Toolbox, which has a built-in cable test.
No. The ground wire is a shield. By grounding it at one end only, any EMI noise will be directed to the ground, eliminating the interference. If you ground both sides, you end up with a ground loop which creates an imbalance in the signal. Think of the shielding ground as a lightning rod,
Would this work if you looped some of the braided wire in the door by the speaker, or would the loop cancel what the braid is doing? So, not necessarily running a new wire, just creating a "noise sink" at the door.
Running it around the speaker wouldn't do anything positive. The braid is the noise sink for the low voltage signal, it won't help with any other noise, and looping any signal wire creates an antenna for noise, which should be megsted by the braid, but I wouldn't do it.
@Reddirtrodz we are on the same page. "-) I also get that you need at least 18 braids. I was thinking if you then used that 18 braid section at the speaker as a service loop we'll say, then i dont have to rerun the whole connection. Although, now that I'm thinking about it, the old wire could be my pull string. Ha ha
You can use a choke, but that is like putting on a band-aid when you need stitches. Braided pair with a ground isolator doesn't need a choke and is far better at rejecting noise.
@@Reddirtrodz It’s an old saying but rosin is not really a miracle ingredient. Try a thin application of flux paste, it will blow your mind. It’s about $2 for a tube of something like RMA-223. Flux removes oxides, prevents them reforming during soldering, and helps with heat transfer. It makes good joints easier and better. There isn’t enough fluxing action in the solder itself for surface preparation.
If your poor excuse for a soldering iron WAS"NICE & HOT" like u said, the solder would melt within 2 seconds. Tinning the iron would help too as would using flux. This is NOT what I'd call a tutorial on soldering anything. This is how no idea experts do it. Nice work, except it's terrible. Sorry to break it to you.
Sure, the solder melts instantly on the tip, but you have to heat up the base metal, which takes longer than a couple of seconds. If you just let the solder melt on the tip to the wire, you get a cold solder joint. Take your no clue having ass out of the comments, bud. Flux is not needed with rosin core solder for electronics. Hate to break it to you...
The alligator clip is scratching that centre pin terribly. Braiding before soldering would be best. The drain blue wire is excellent idea almost like an XLR connection!
thanks for sharing. BTW that bench vise worth more than everything on that bench.
Yes, it is. I got it for like $20 at an industrial auction. Opened it up, cleaned it, lubricated it, and tightened up the jackscrew, works perfectly! Gotta love a Wilton, and it's older than me!
Great video bruh! Bad ass time to make me some cables 😊
Glad you liked it! Let us know how it goes!
I like it
Good job with that cable. Cool idea using the extra wire as a ground wire. I bet they’d be good on turntables. Did you measure the capacitance and/or resistance of the cable of the length you built? Thanks very much! 🔊😊🎶
I have measured it, i didn't include that in the video. Maybe I will do a cable test video, i usually test them with my Audio Toolbox, which has a built-in cable test.
12:28 Do you mean to secure the ground to the vehicle chassis and the radio chassis on each end?
No. The ground wire is a shield. By grounding it at one end only, any EMI noise will be directed to the ground, eliminating the interference. If you ground both sides, you end up with a ground loop which creates an imbalance in the signal.
Think of the shielding ground as a lightning rod,
Would this work if you looped some of the braided wire in the door by the speaker, or would the loop cancel what the braid is doing? So, not necessarily running a new wire, just creating a "noise sink" at the door.
Running it around the speaker wouldn't do anything positive.
The braid is the noise sink for the low voltage signal, it won't help with any other noise, and looping any signal wire creates an antenna for noise, which should be megsted by the braid, but I wouldn't do it.
@Reddirtrodz we are on the same page. "-)
I also get that you need at least 18 braids. I was thinking if you then used that 18 braid section at the speaker as a service loop we'll say, then i dont have to rerun the whole connection. Although, now that I'm thinking about it, the old wire could be my pull string. Ha ha
Would the braided cable work as an a/v composite cable?
Absolutely! EMF and EMI gets into everything, and video signals are weak to begin with, I use these for my in-car video as well.
Good to know, thanks!@@Reddirtrodz
It is great video to know braided cable. Thanks !
What about just using a ferrite choke~
You can use a choke, but that is like putting on a band-aid when you need stitches.
Braided pair with a ground isolator doesn't need a choke and is far better at rejecting noise.
Use some flux man
Rosin core solder doesn't need flux.
@@Reddirtrodz It’s an old saying but rosin is not really a miracle ingredient. Try a thin application of flux paste, it will blow your mind. It’s about $2 for a tube of something like RMA-223. Flux removes oxides, prevents them reforming during soldering, and helps with heat transfer. It makes good joints easier and better. There isn’t enough fluxing action in the solder itself for surface preparation.
@@Reddirtrodz It was balling up, try some paste flux, you’ll never look back.
If your poor excuse for a soldering iron WAS"NICE & HOT" like u said, the solder would melt within 2 seconds. Tinning the iron would help too as would using flux. This is NOT what I'd call a tutorial on soldering anything. This is how no idea experts do it. Nice work, except it's terrible. Sorry to break it to you.
Sure, the solder melts instantly on the tip, but you have to heat up the base metal, which takes longer than a couple of seconds. If you just let the solder melt on the tip to the wire, you get a cold solder joint. Take your no clue having ass out of the comments, bud.
Flux is not needed with rosin core solder for electronics. Hate to break it to you...