Little burnt valves can drive a mechanic crazy!!! In my experience if i ever get one burnt valve im gonna replace them all. I did one once and replaced the bad valve. Put back together 2 weeks later another one went bad took back apart replaced. Two weeks later again same thing i just left it and said f with it lesson learned!
@@johnreed2272 I change the timing chain in a 2011 f150 .3.5 , when I went to start the truck it get accelerated to 5k revs. You think has to be with valves? I ck sensors, bodytrotle , air filter…and I don’t find nothing. Thro codes p0223, p0221,
im after a misfire i cant figure out. ive done the following test and the look normal, copression test ok, leak down test ok, smoked test ok, ruled out good spark plug an good coil and good injector, no intake leaks. only thing i notice is misfire ONLY on idle. if you press gas just a little say 1k rps NO MORE MISIRE soon as gas released there is mis fire cylinder number 1 only . 2014 vw routan 3.6l v6 engine. thank you . yes i have pulsing limp noid light for injector and i do have spark on coil. thank you.
@@christopher9926 yes so with time the tick tick sound started and as it turns out it was the rocker arm. i took the valve covers off and it had soo soo much play and than soon after the 1 misfire cylinder 4 started to miss fire so i relaced all cam lifters and rockers arms and intake from bank one on cyilinder 1 was chewed up so i replaced that one cam shaft i put it all together and NO MORE MISS FIRES no noise very quiet.
Hi thanks for sharing your knowledge its very informative, just one question can i do a leak down test or a dry test when the cylinder head is still attached to the engine? Reason being,on my w204 i met an accident and the timing chain slipped of, my mechanic says my valves are bent i just want to be 100% sure before i can start working on changing the valves,can you advise
Hey thank you for you videos. My car is at the mechanic and he says the valves are bent because car is out of time. He is say we need a whole new motor is this true? Why can't the valves be changed?
Zero reading in cyl 1 and 3, 180 psi on 2 and 4, took head out, gasket looks intact, valves look ok too, cyl looks ok, all crosspatch are there some carbon buildup but vehicle has 209K miles; it was driving fine for few minutes and started overheating due to low coolant; old fluids, stopped right away, let it cool down, drove slowly without letting temp raise to home, shut down ignition and never started again, cranks but not start, then did the compression test mentioned with those results...any thoughts?
@@Top5AutoRepairs Found out what was wrong and the car had gunk up gas that is what caused the valves in cyl 1 to be sticked opened and it wont start; not head gasket issue. There is always something to learn as it turns out.
I got 2011 f150 3.5 and timing chain jumps, put new one and test moving the crankshaft and the chain jumps in certain time and tensioner compress and decompress, is that is hiting a bend valve?
Hey i got a 2011 F150 3.5L too and replaced the timing chain also, i'm here because i have no compression and the valves aren't fully closing causing the engine to turn but no start, i advise you to get an endoscope from amazon to check your valves i got mine for 50CAD
@@B9poy i buy one, but before I open the cylinder head take all the valves out, notice one of them was rust and it was hard to take it out because of that. I clean all very good take the rust out, put each one back in the place they were before and all are smooth. Think that was the problem, rust. Also I didn’t before put oil in the cams, so now iam put in oil in everything before start the truck, in case the oil pump miss something lol.
@@JohnJohn-nh5mj the oil pump wouldn't miss that you don't have to worry about it haha but it's okay i'm glad it worked out well for you, i'm still trying to figure out why my valves aren't fully closing and i can't find anything about it
Brake cleaner will evaporate in no time. But brake fluid probably would work better as it is an very good penetrant... Water might be to thick for that, I have not tried..
I’ve had rough idle and then shaking engine , had a leaking injector that has damaged the cats and clogged up but then now the engine shake and lost power . Did a compression test on the cylinders to find cylinder 1 had zero compression. What should I do now, does this mean the car is a right off ?
Hi, great videos. I live in Sydney Australia. My 2007 Toyota Corolla car with a 2ZR-FE engine has a ticking/pinging/knocking noise on acceleration and on idle vibrates a bit. There's no oil in the coolant and no water/coolant in the oil. I'm not losing coolant or oil. However, I found compression low in cylinders 3 & 4 (C1 & C2 125 psi C3 & C4 75 psi). I placed oil in C4 and redid the compression test - no change. The funny thing is when I start the compression test on C4 first it gives me 55 psi. But when I do C3 (75) and then go back and do C4 - C4 comes up 70 75 psi - weird! Anyway, without taking the head apart, how can I tell if there's just a hole in the head gasket between cylinders 3 & 4? Is it unlikely to be a valve if both C3 & C4 have low compression? Cheers, Jim
My Econoline only shakes after warming up. No engine codes. Air flowing out of the oil fill tube. Some smoke or steam out of the exhaust pipe. I replaced the faulty water pump and used both head gasket sealer and oil seal. It seemed to reduce the smoke a lot but when I press the gas in drive or reverse the van will barely move. The scanner picks up knocking, only with Forscan and not other scanners like BlueDriver. I am wondering what it could be. It mainly shakes on the driver side of the engine. I really hope it's not the a cylinder or wall. Please share some of your expertise with me. What about leaking valve seals, a bad sensor, etc? The temperature on the scanner shows much hotter than the guage on the instrument cluster. It barely moves. I am so confused. Thank you.
Am having the same issue with my top cylinder in my Corolla 2006, one out of the 4 valves isn't working and it casing my car to constantly shake and if I stand at one place while on motion it continues shaking
I have a 2014 dodge caravan. 3.6 and i have a cylinder 1 misfire that i seem to cannot fix. With my scanner i can see that it only misfires at Idle. & after replacing the head it still doing that same thing. What else could it be?? Here is a list of parts ive replaced Right rear cylinder head Timing chain assembly replaced Cylinder 1 fuel injector (replaced twice) Fuel injector complete wire harness Cylinder 1 Spark plug Coil pack Valve covers gasket Brand new* Replaced PCM
I have an issue with mine, it won't adjust the valve no matter how many times I try, but I have good compression. Any idea what it could be? It's just one vale and one side only.
That's the best described video I've seen online. Top job!
Little burnt valves can drive a mechanic crazy!!! In my experience if i ever get one burnt valve im gonna replace them all. I did one once and replaced the bad valve. Put back together 2 weeks later another one went bad took back apart replaced. Two weeks later again same thing i just left it and said f with it lesson learned!
Did you need to replace the head gasket again.
@@MarkNewphone every time or it's a risk. The special torque pattern is a cue!
@@johnreed2272 I change the timing chain in a 2011 f150 .3.5 , when I went to start the truck it get accelerated to 5k revs. You think has to be with valves? I ck sensors, bodytrotle , air filter…and I don’t find nothing. Thro codes p0223, p0221,
Been through that..it stinks but runs great when fixed correctly 👍🏽
This was very Helpful, thanks Brother!
Good video best I have seen a thorough! Thanks
Much appreciated bradduh for the information you have shared and demonstrated!🤙🏽🥃
im after a misfire i cant figure out. ive done the following test and the look normal, copression test ok, leak down test ok, smoked test ok, ruled out good spark plug an good coil and good injector, no intake leaks. only thing i notice is misfire ONLY on idle. if you press gas just a little say 1k rps NO MORE MISIRE soon as gas released there is mis fire cylinder number 1 only . 2014 vw routan 3.6l v6 engine. thank you . yes i have pulsing limp noid light for injector and i do have spark on coil. thank you.
Check idle air control valve or upstream o2 sensor(s). A stuck valve is also a possibility, but much more invasive than the first two.
I have the same issue , did u find the culprit ?
@@christopher9926 yes so with time the tick tick sound started and as it turns out it was the rocker arm. i took the valve covers off and it had soo soo much play and than soon after the 1 misfire cylinder 4 started to miss fire so i relaced all cam lifters and rockers arms and intake from bank one on cyilinder 1 was chewed up so i replaced that one cam shaft i put it all together and NO MORE MISS FIRES no noise very quiet.
Thank you sir. Very informative
Hi thanks for sharing your knowledge its very informative, just one question can i do a leak down test or a dry test when the cylinder head is still attached to the engine? Reason being,on my w204 i met an accident and the timing chain slipped of, my mechanic says my valves are bent i just want to be 100% sure before i can start working on changing the valves,can you advise
Hey thank you for you videos. My car is at the mechanic and he says the valves are bent because car is out of time. He is say we need a whole new motor is this true? Why can't the valves be changed?
The valves can cause damage/puncture the piston head and if the valves break off it can damage the cylinder wall.
I'm not sure mechanic only said they were bent. Thanks for your response
Zero reading in cyl 1 and 3, 180 psi on 2 and 4, took head out, gasket looks intact, valves look ok too, cyl looks ok, all crosspatch are there some carbon buildup but vehicle has 209K miles; it was driving fine for few minutes and started overheating due to low coolant; old fluids, stopped right away, let it cool down, drove slowly without letting temp raise to home, shut down ignition and never started again, cranks but not start, then did the compression test mentioned with those results...any thoughts?
Hello. Sorry to say your head gasket is blown. The cylinder head is most likely warped as will need to be resurfaced.
@@Top5AutoRepairs like I said, head gasket is not blown, I am looking at it
@@Top5AutoRepairs Found out what was wrong and the car had gunk up gas that is what caused the valves in cyl 1 to be sticked opened and it wont start; not head gasket issue. There is always something to learn as it turns out.
I got 2011 f150 3.5 and timing chain jumps, put new one and test moving the crankshaft and the chain jumps in certain time and tensioner compress and decompress, is that is hiting a bend valve?
Hey i got a 2011 F150 3.5L too and replaced the timing chain also, i'm here because i have no compression and the valves aren't fully closing causing the engine to turn but no start, i advise you to get an endoscope from amazon to check your valves i got mine for 50CAD
@@B9poy i buy one, but before I open the cylinder head take all the valves out, notice one of them was rust and it was hard to take it out because of that. I clean all very good take the rust out, put each one back in the place they were before and all are smooth. Think that was the problem, rust. Also I didn’t before put oil in the cams, so now iam put in oil in everything before start the truck, in case the oil pump miss something lol.
@@JohnJohn-nh5mj the oil pump wouldn't miss that you don't have to worry about it haha but it's okay i'm glad it worked out well for you, i'm still trying to figure out why my valves aren't fully closing and i can't find anything about it
Brake cleaner will evaporate in no time. But brake fluid probably would work better as it is an very good penetrant... Water might be to thick for that, I have not tried..
Can I know if valves are bend moving the crankshaft clockwise and feel it?
I’ve had rough idle and then shaking engine , had a leaking injector that has damaged the cats and clogged up but then now the engine shake and lost power . Did a compression test on the cylinders to find cylinder 1 had zero compression. What should I do now, does this mean the car is a right off ?
Hi, great videos. I live in Sydney Australia. My 2007 Toyota Corolla car with a 2ZR-FE engine has a ticking/pinging/knocking noise on acceleration and on idle vibrates a bit. There's no oil in the coolant and no water/coolant in the oil. I'm not losing coolant or oil. However, I found compression low in cylinders 3 & 4 (C1 & C2 125 psi C3 & C4 75 psi). I placed oil in C4 and redid the compression test - no change. The funny thing is when I start the compression test on C4 first it gives me 55 psi. But when I do C3 (75) and then go back and do C4 - C4 comes up 70 75 psi - weird! Anyway, without taking the head apart, how can I tell if there's just a hole in the head gasket between cylinders 3 & 4? Is it unlikely to be a valve if both C3 & C4 have low compression? Cheers, Jim
My Econoline only shakes after warming up. No engine codes. Air flowing out of the oil fill tube. Some smoke or steam out of the exhaust pipe. I replaced the faulty water pump and used both head gasket sealer and oil seal. It seemed to reduce the smoke a lot but when I press the gas in drive or reverse the van will barely move. The scanner picks up knocking, only with Forscan and not other scanners like BlueDriver. I am wondering what it could be. It mainly shakes on the driver side of the engine. I really hope it's not the a cylinder or wall. Please share some of your expertise with me. What about leaking valve seals, a bad sensor, etc? The temperature on the scanner shows much hotter than the guage on the instrument cluster. It barely moves. I am so confused. Thank you.
I recently put a new water pump on my polo 9n blm not sure if timing went of and if valves bent because car just swing can u help pls
Am having the same issue with my top cylinder in my Corolla 2006, one out of the 4 valves isn't working and it casing my car to constantly shake and if I stand at one place while on motion it continues shaking
I have a 2014 dodge caravan. 3.6 and i have a cylinder 1 misfire that i seem to cannot fix. With my scanner i can see that it only misfires at Idle. & after replacing the head it still doing that same thing. What else could it be?? Here is a list of parts ive replaced
Right rear cylinder head
Timing chain assembly replaced
Cylinder 1 fuel injector (replaced twice)
Fuel injector complete wire harness
Cylinder 1 Spark plug
Coil pack
Valve covers gasket
Brand new* Replaced PCM
Did you ever figure it out
hey boss shine some light on me please. can you have a burn valve if leak down test results show no leaks.
Does it matter if it's a cold non running engine?
Tolerances change with heat it’s recommended to do on a warmer engine vs a cold one
So I have a quick question I'm having gas coming out of my headers trying to understand why is this happening
Leaking injectors
I have an issue with mine, it won't adjust the valve no matter how many times I try, but I have good compression. Any idea what it could be? It's just one vale and one side only.
Thanks. 👍
Hi there
أحسنت
✅✅✅✅✅ all the above😢
Great video, dirty fingernails.
U need a boroscope with a mirror 🪞 lol i have the boroscop but still cant see. I might try the smoke method.