Thanks for the tips. I have tried different ways on laying worker hives, some work, some don't. I like this way and will do it next time.. Thanks again..
Adding two or three frames of brood in all stages, and one frame with eggs in it. The pheromones from the open brood suppress the workers ovaries and the eggs get raised for a new queen. Once the queen cells are in development and capped, the workers just wait for a mated return. I actually have one such colony now with queen hatches any day, so hopefully a mated queen will be laying with in two weeks, if not and the colony is strong still, I will requeen without any problems
I had a laying worker at the beginning of the year just as spring had started, so I took the deep box and newspaper combined it on top of a double deep and a day or two later I removed the top box and the rest of the bees had joined the hive below. It’s been a great hive since.
What has worked everytime for me is to do a newspaper combine as mentioned, but I put the laying worker hive, on top of the strong queen right hive with newspaper in between two boxes; 100 percent success rate
I had a ten frame laying worker hive. Placed another box over the laying worker box separated by news paper. Add a nuc to the top box, with a good queen. Created a strong hive
I've tried many of the ways that you've discussed, and like you said sometimes it works and sometimes it don't. In most of my situations they are on the smaller side already or their a mating nuc misfire and The easiest way and the fastest is to find a colony in another yard that could use a bump, and place it where the Q less hive is now then shake everything off in front of the replacement hive just before dark .there all calmed down by morning ,and so far this has always worked.but I would not replace with a smaller hive than the Q less hive
Not saying this is a solution but last fall/winter I lost a queen. Double deep plum full of laying worker brood. Had a buddy that had a failing colony and took the queen and out her in my laying worker colony. She is now one of my strongest colony.
Shaking all bees off, replacing all frames with frames that have only foundation. Feed. Add a queen cell, or caged queen virgin or laying. The laying workers do not have a place to lay. By the time the comb is drawn out queen should be ruling.🙏
If it's a weak laying worker colony I find a decent sized swarm works well. If my swarm magnet has a catch for the day I pull out a few center frames. If I see the swarm queen I put her in a curler. Everyone gets sprayed down with light sugar water. I drop in the swarm. Curlered queen gets rubber banded to a frame of foundation and put in the center so her bees can cluster and protect her. In 24hrs if the workers are drawing comb it is their intention to stay. I release her. Large laying worker colonies get divided up with 1 or 2 frames going to a strong hive or a weaker frame to a nuc.
I had a colony this spring swarm a few times and eventually become laying workers. A full 10 frames of bees. I used 1 of my 5 frame splits with a laying queen and put that colony over the laying worker colony with newspaper between and it worked perfectly.
Im using CO2 for sleep bees...its perfecto for this problem. After change the box location..introduce the bees quickly and the cell or Queen or larva/eggs.
In my experience, the longer the colony is LW, the stronger the urge to kill a new queen or flat out reject your attempts to fix it. One time I just had to drive a colony 5 miles and shook them there as any attempts to shake them in the yard was causing them to jump to the next colony beside it. Best to catch it early.
I've used 1:1 syrup with HBH and spray them down and introduce either a queen or a frame of eggs. Knock on wood (behive), I have been lucky. My story is it's better to be lucky than smart.
Once I caught a swarm that had laying workers. One theory is that a queen's pheromones suppresses laying workers - another theory is that open female brood pheromones suppress it. So I put in a frame or two of open brood every couple of days. It took 5 frames, before they created an emergency queen and the workers stopped their laying.
I've shook them on the ground in front of a strong colony and take their hive away...some fly back to where their hive was, some fly or walk in and get killed and some take up residence...the ones who flew back to their missing hive will soon try to come into another hive and either live or die....if some live it's a win because a laying worker colony is doomed if nothing is done.
The way that works best for me is to just start adding eggs,open and capped brood with the bees covering the frames.If there is a queen cell the better it is.By the time you start getting laying workers all the bees are getting old and you get a dwindle before they hatch a new queen and she is laying so that young brood and eggs helps your hive keep up with the lost of the older bees.Now thats my way and your way works also.
I've tried lots of different things but now I just shake them out. The bees migrate to another queen right colony and start behaving normally. Frames with drone brood go in the freezer overnight and then put on a strong colony to get cleaned up. Now I'm ready to make more splits and my laying worker problem is gone.
I shake them out on table, chair cattle feeder ,whatever, leave them their 5-6 hrs, go back rake them off in a Hive, give them some sugar water, an turn a virgin queen loose, it has worked ever time for me, same ones I did this yr had tore our cells I give them an killed virgin queens I had previously turned loose , it's something about shaking em out an leaving them for a few hrs. Maybe it makes them think about what their doing 😅
VERY INTERESTING! *Great Ideas,Thanks!* Chapter in Books, (sure there are) should List others' & Your ideas. or just come back here to rewatch\ read. : }
As you mentioned. I personally use BOTH methods. If you play the numbers game in this situation YOU win and you save the bees & resources. You must have the strength in good bees to succeed. Bee Happy HBM
Thanks for the tips. I have tried different ways on laying worker hives, some work, some don't. I like this way and will do it next time.. Thanks again..
Great video guys, never see much on laying workers and how to deal with them
Adding two or three frames of brood in all stages, and one frame with eggs in it. The pheromones from the open brood suppress the workers ovaries and the eggs get raised for a new queen. Once the queen cells are in development and capped, the workers just wait for a mated return. I actually have one such colony now with queen hatches any day, so hopefully a mated queen will be laying with in two weeks, if not and the colony is strong still, I will requeen without any problems
Very good video
Freeze the frames of laying worker eggs/larvae, place a new frame of worker larvae plus queen cell works for me.
I had a laying worker at the beginning of the year just as spring had started, so I took the deep box and newspaper combined it on top of a double deep and a day or two later I removed the top box and the rest of the bees had joined the hive below. It’s been a great hive since.
Super Dave, question my drone population is the lowest I've ever seen any suggestions? 👍👍
If you croud the hive with population the hive should produce more drones. Or you can buy drone foundation forcing them to lay drones, or honey one
@@davidhaught84 Thanks boss, you full time beekeeping yet?
What has worked everytime for me is to do a newspaper combine as mentioned, but I put the laying worker hive, on top of the strong queen right hive with newspaper in between two boxes; 100 percent success rate
I had a ten frame laying worker hive. Placed another box over the laying worker box separated by news paper. Add a nuc to the top box, with a good queen. Created a strong hive
I used this same method too and it worked a treat.....;-)
Lots of good ideas there David - has to be something there for everyone, a pick what you want to try kind of menu. Thank you sir!!
I've tried many of the ways that you've discussed, and like you said sometimes it works and sometimes it don't. In most of my situations they are on the smaller side already or their a mating nuc misfire and The easiest way and the fastest is to find a colony in another yard that could use a bump, and place it where the Q less hive is now then shake everything off in front of the replacement hive just before dark .there all calmed down by morning ,and so far this has always worked.but I would not replace with a smaller hive than the Q less hive
Not saying this is a solution but last fall/winter I lost a queen. Double deep plum full of laying worker brood. Had a buddy that had a failing colony and took the queen and out her in my laying worker colony. She is now one of my strongest colony.
Shaking all bees off, replacing all frames with frames that have only foundation. Feed. Add a queen cell, or caged queen virgin or laying. The laying workers do not have a place to lay. By the time the comb is drawn out queen should be ruling.🙏
@@alanporter2694smart
If it's a weak laying worker colony I find a decent sized swarm works well. If my swarm magnet has a catch for the day I pull out a few center frames. If I see the swarm queen I put her in a curler. Everyone gets sprayed down with light sugar water. I drop in the swarm. Curlered queen gets rubber banded to a frame of foundation and put in the center so her bees can cluster and protect her. In 24hrs if the workers are drawing comb it is their intention to stay. I release her. Large laying worker colonies get divided up with 1 or 2 frames going to a strong hive or a weaker frame to a nuc.
Checking earlier better adding brood to colonies helps heaps . What i do to layimg worker hives is just add or join two or three t
I had a colony this spring swarm a few times and eventually become laying workers. A full 10 frames of bees. I used 1 of my 5 frame splits with a laying queen and put that colony over the laying worker colony with newspaper between and it worked perfectly.
Im using CO2 for sleep bees...its perfecto for this problem. After change the box location..introduce the bees quickly
and the cell or Queen or larva/eggs.
Its a reset for them...(sorry for my
english)
In my experience, the longer the colony is LW, the stronger the urge to kill a new queen or flat out reject your attempts to fix it.
One time I just had to drive a colony 5 miles and shook them there as any attempts to shake them in the yard was causing them to jump to the next colony beside it.
Best to catch it early.
I've used 1:1 syrup with HBH and spray them down and introduce either a queen or a frame of eggs. Knock on wood (behive), I have been lucky. My story is it's better to be lucky than smart.
What is HBH?
@@stephenmcguire7331 honey-b-healthy
I just combine them with a strong colony.
Once I caught a swarm that had laying workers. One theory is that a queen's pheromones suppresses laying workers - another theory is that open female brood pheromones suppress it. So I put in a frame or two of open brood every couple of days. It took 5 frames, before they created an emergency queen and the workers stopped their laying.
I've shook them on the ground in front of a strong colony and take their hive away...some fly back to where their hive was, some fly or walk in and get killed and some take up residence...the ones who flew back to their missing hive will soon try to come into another hive and either live or die....if some live it's a win because a laying worker colony is doomed if nothing is done.
The way that works best for me is to just start adding eggs,open and capped brood with the bees covering the frames.If there is a queen cell the better it is.By the time you start getting laying workers all the bees are getting old and you get a dwindle before they hatch a new queen and she is laying so that young brood and eggs helps your hive keep up with the lost of the older bees.Now thats my way and your way works also.
I've tried lots of different things but now I just shake them out. The bees migrate to another queen right colony and start behaving normally. Frames with drone brood go in the freezer overnight and then put on a strong colony to get cleaned up. Now I'm ready to make more splits and my laying worker problem is gone.
Shake them out and the bees will find a new home.
I shake them out on table, chair cattle feeder ,whatever, leave them their 5-6 hrs, go back rake them off in a Hive, give them some sugar water, an turn a virgin queen loose, it has worked ever time for me, same ones I did this yr had tore our cells I give them an killed virgin queens I had previously turned loose , it's something about shaking em out an leaving them for a few hrs. Maybe it makes them think about what their doing 😅
VERY INTERESTING! *Great Ideas,Thanks!*
Chapter in Books, (sure there are) should List others' & Your ideas. or just come back here to rewatch\ read. : }
As you mentioned. I personally use BOTH methods. If you play the numbers game in this situation YOU win and you save the bees & resources. You must have the strength in good bees to succeed.
Bee Happy
HBM