For a given angle, the convex grind actually has less material than a V edge. Think of it as a V edge with the shoulders tapered away. With the shoulders missing, it cuts through easier with less drag.
Because people keep making in super complicated then it is. Sharpen your angle you want like you do any knives then lower the angle after and blend in the shoulders..its not rocket science crisp convex is way better then this rocking bs you never get your apex centered and straight.
For convex, you cant beat the ease and incredible sharpness with a Ken Onion and “blade grinder” 1x18” belt attachment. Use low rpm, low pressure, good belts, and some practice on cheap blades first, the results are incredible. My 3v Bravo1, magnacut Gunny, and 3v Bravo Alpha are by far my sharpest knives overall. And they are super easy to field sharpen using a used belt tied to a tree with para cord then pulled taught, like a barber’s strop. I never ever use a solid/hard sharpening device of any kind on a convex edge.
This works for a quick field touchup, but it will eventually blunt the edge profile, badly, and will require a lot of material removal up behind the edge to restore good slicing characteristics. I tailor my field sharpening method to the blade style I’m carrying. For full a convex grind and edge like the one shown here, Bark Rivers, etc - I use the fine (white) Ken Onion 1x18 sharpening belt. Tie one end to a tree with para cord and pull on the other, it creates a super light small barbers strop of sorts. Lay the blade flat, let the belt conform to the blade’s overall grind and in doing so it will just “lick” the edge when its pulled *straight* back. Find a balance between how hard you pull on the belt vs how hard you press down with the knife.
Is it feasible to take a scandi grind and make it convex. Thinking taking a Mora companion heavy duty into a budget convex? First step would be a secondary bevel centered on the corner, then grinding that over..
Great video. That Nomad is one sweet knife and not a bad price tag. It's on my list. That's a must have. Thanks for sharing tips on sharpening a convex grind. I wonder how a person would properly use a ceramic rod on a convex.
If you're talking a round ceramic round, it most definitely cannot be used the same way. You have a single point of contact unlike on a flat stone, so when you draw the knife across the rod as you're rocking it back and forth edge to spine, you'll hit the top of the convex bevel on one area (closer to the spine), completely missing the apex, and hitting the apex only, completely missing the area above it on another area, and it'd be basically impossible to effectively hit the apex everywhere. Doing it this way you'd have a undulating wave pattern ground into your edge where the trough of the "wave" goes down to your apex in places and then moves up the bevel toward the spine (at the top of the convex) missing the apex in others. Now think how many of these undulating wave patterns along the length of the edge you'd have to make in different positions to hit every single part of the apex like this. You'd be there forever! This is all because of the geometry differences between the flat stone and a round rod. The only way to do this with a round rod is to repeatedly stroke along the length of the blade heel to tip as you normally would, but each stroke you alter the angle somewhat to hit a different area of the bevel. Even with this method though, due to only hitting a single point, you'll still not have as nice and even of a blended bevel until you take it back to some sort of flat abrasive like a stone or strop. You'll be left with a multi-faceted bevel off the rod vs using a flat abrasive which can blend everything evenly.
Personally I use naniwa, or shapton whetstones to sharpen convex. And use a general angle with natural hand motion not trying to keep a very specific angle and that always works tremendously well for me.
Very interesting technique! I see how very gentle motion along cutting edge recreates what people use the mousepad for when sharpening convex. Would you say that you move the blade as if you were shaving a flat surface, rock back to shave again, & so on with this convex sharpening technique?
Myyyyy brotha! Thanks for this! I’ve been reluctant to get anything with a convex edge because everything I’ve seen says “jUsT sHtRoP iT” and I’m like “what if you chip the edge?” If there’s a way you could demonstrate on a convex machete, I would much appreciate it. I love your channel, man. Keep up the good work!
Not sure about the machete but thank you for the support and glad this video helped. I agree that is what I had heard for years and thought the same as you.
Best grind in my opinion is flat ground and transition the final edge to convex with work sharp ken onion / blade grinder attachment. The knife in this video is not just a convex edge it is completely a convex ground blade, makes for great chopping. If the blade was ground flat during making and simply transitioned from a v-ground edge to slight convex on the ken onion blade grinder attachment the cutting performance would be light years better!
I only have one convex edge so far and I've been keeping it in line with a DC4 (small handheld diamond/ceramic sharpening stone). I figures it's like an axe profile so I'll do kind of the same thing. Has worked ok so far. I'd never use a bench whetstone though, nowhere near enough feel to get it right like this, in my opinion.
I just like to mention that the Work Sharp sharpener just like any belt sander belt grinder will give you a convex Edge a most people that works fine. Now if you had was called a patent which really could just be a little piece of angle iron behind your sanding belt then you can create a flat grind or scandi grind
I’ve heard that it’s actually really bad for the blade or sharpening job to test it out on paper like that. Can anyone tell me if that is valid or not?
Your final angle is waay to flat for a keen edge. This rocking thing must be the most unprecise way grinding a convex. Just take a strop. If there are chips or dents, use good wet sandpaper on a slightly giving surface like good old sattle leather. So you get an edge with less than 40 Degrees each side like yours will be after a few sharpenings like this.
Yeah , see , when you rubbed the re-sharpened edge it should cut your finger . Cutting a heavy sheet of paper is nothing , a p-o-s steak knife should do that.
For a given angle, the convex grind actually has less material than a V edge. Think of it as a V edge with the shoulders tapered away. With the shoulders missing, it cuts through easier with less drag.
Definitely a love/hate relationship. I love convex for a belt knife. I hate maintaining it.
Because people keep making in super complicated then it is. Sharpen your angle you want like you do any knives then lower the angle after and blend in the shoulders..its not rocket science crisp convex is way better then this rocking bs you never get your apex centered and straight.
@@user-pm7pw1tl3t No. Because it takes more time. Cant speak for others.
Yeah scandi is so much easier to maintain .
For convex, you cant beat the ease and incredible sharpness with a Ken Onion and “blade grinder” 1x18” belt attachment.
Use low rpm, low pressure, good belts, and some practice on cheap blades first, the results are incredible. My 3v Bravo1, magnacut Gunny, and 3v Bravo Alpha are by far my sharpest knives overall. And they are super easy to field sharpen using a used belt tied to a tree with para cord then pulled taught, like a barber’s strop.
I never ever use a solid/hard sharpening device of any kind on a convex edge.
Taut@@dash8465
This works for a quick field touchup, but it will eventually blunt the edge profile, badly, and will require a lot of material removal up behind the edge to restore good slicing characteristics. I tailor my field sharpening method to the blade style I’m carrying. For full a convex grind and edge like the one shown here, Bark Rivers, etc - I use the fine (white) Ken Onion 1x18 sharpening belt. Tie one end to a tree with para cord and pull on the other, it creates a super light small barbers strop of sorts. Lay the blade flat, let the belt conform to the blade’s overall grind and in doing so it will just “lick” the edge when its pulled *straight* back. Find a balance between how hard you pull on the belt vs how hard you press down with the knife.
Good explanation man, very good references.
Convex grinds are best suited to axes & hatchets!!! There is simply not enough steel present on a knive blade to do it reliably!
This is the type of edge I have the most trouble getting to a paper slicing sharpness.
I get it, practice makes perfect
I find it one of the easiest with a double sided strop and sharpening compound. Works well on my Bark River Bravo 1.
Look up sandpaper and mouse pad sharpening method
@@gagelink2457 thank you
Thank you for sharing!It happens to be one of my favorite blade shapes 🔪👍
Same here!
Is it feasible to take a scandi grind and make it convex. Thinking taking a Mora companion heavy duty into a budget convex? First step would be a secondary bevel centered on the corner, then grinding that over..
@@jack_m100 Just have to rock it while you sharpen, it will take a LONG time the first time, you have to reprofile it.
A lot of people have the best results with sandpaper on a mouse pad for convex grinds.
Great video. That Nomad is one sweet knife and not a bad price tag. It's on my list. That's a must have. Thanks for sharing tips on sharpening a convex grind. I wonder how a person would properly use a ceramic rod on a convex.
A very similar way 👍
If you're talking a round ceramic round, it most definitely cannot be used the same way.
You have a single point of contact unlike on a flat stone, so when you draw the knife across the rod as you're rocking it back and forth edge to spine, you'll hit the top of the convex bevel on one area (closer to the spine), completely missing the apex, and hitting the apex only, completely missing the area above it on another area, and it'd be basically impossible to effectively hit the apex everywhere.
Doing it this way you'd have a undulating wave pattern ground into your edge where the trough of the "wave" goes down to your apex in places and then moves up the bevel toward the spine (at the top of the convex) missing the apex in others.
Now think how many of these undulating wave patterns along the length of the edge you'd have to make in different positions to hit every single part of the apex like this. You'd be there forever!
This is all because of the geometry differences between the flat stone and a round rod.
The only way to do this with a round rod is to repeatedly stroke along the length of the blade heel to tip as you normally would, but each stroke you alter the angle somewhat to hit a different area of the bevel.
Even with this method though, due to only hitting a single point, you'll still not have as nice and even of a blended bevel until you take it back to some sort of flat abrasive like a stone or strop. You'll be left with a multi-faceted bevel off the rod vs using a flat abrasive which can blend everything evenly.
Personally I use naniwa, or shapton whetstones to sharpen convex. And use a general angle with natural hand motion not trying to keep a very specific angle and that always works tremendously well for me.
Very interesting technique! I see how very gentle motion along cutting edge recreates what people use the mousepad for when sharpening convex. Would you say that you move the blade as if you were shaving a flat surface, rock back to shave again, & so on with this convex sharpening technique?
Myyyyy brotha! Thanks for this! I’ve been reluctant to get anything with a convex edge because everything I’ve seen says “jUsT sHtRoP iT” and I’m like “what if you chip the edge?” If there’s a way you could demonstrate on a convex machete, I would much appreciate it. I love your channel, man. Keep up the good work!
Not sure about the machete but thank you for the support and glad this video helped. I agree that is what I had heard for years and thought the same as you.
Do it like an axe and take the stone to the blade
What knife are you using in the video that is convex
I think it's a Joker Nomad 6.5 from Spain.?
Best grind in my opinion is flat ground and transition the final edge to convex with work sharp ken onion / blade grinder attachment. The knife in this video is not just a convex edge it is completely a convex ground blade, makes for great chopping. If the blade was ground flat during making and simply transitioned from a v-ground edge to slight convex on the ken onion blade grinder attachment the cutting performance would be light years better!
I only have one convex edge so far and I've been keeping it in line with a DC4 (small handheld diamond/ceramic sharpening stone). I figures it's like an axe profile so I'll do kind of the same thing. Has worked ok so far. I'd never use a bench whetstone though, nowhere near enough feel to get it right like this, in my opinion.
Just picked up Larrin's book as well
Best grind in my opinion is flat ground and transition the final edge to convex with work sharp ken onion / blade grinder attachment.
I just like to mention that the Work Sharp sharpener just like any belt sander belt grinder will give you a convex Edge a most people that works fine. Now if you had was called a patent which really could just be a little piece of angle iron behind your sanding belt then you can create a flat grind or scandi grind
A platten.
@holdernewtshesrearin5471 I often use the voice to text feature and it makes errors.
@@MasterK9Trainer - I know. We all have errors caused by voice to text or spell check.
I was just correcting it for anyone that was confused.
This is good i love my convex fallkniven modern bowie and bark river bravo 3 but let me just say MF Doom is the greatest rapper of all time R.I.P
I sharpen my convex edge like any other knife but I do it in two parts. Almost like a tanto
I’ve never put a convex edge on my blades I normally just follow the factory edge with my stone until it becomes even
a slack belt on a belt grinder works best!
I’ve heard that it’s actually really bad for the blade or sharpening job to test it out on paper like that. Can anyone tell me if that is valid or not?
Joker Nomad 6.5 ! Yes?
Your final angle is waay to flat for a keen edge. This rocking thing must be the most unprecise way grinding a convex. Just take a strop. If there are chips or dents, use good wet sandpaper on a slightly giving surface like good old sattle leather. So you get an edge with less than 40 Degrees each side like yours will be after a few sharpenings like this.
Is that the Joker Nomad?
Yes
Work Sharp Ken Onion
Yeah , see , when you rubbed the re-sharpened edge it should cut your finger . Cutting a heavy sheet of paper is nothing , a p-o-s steak knife should do that.
Mouse pad is another method