Very helpful, having these videos is one of the things that sets Atlantic British apart from the rest and why you will always have my order for any LR parts I need
This is the best video on this topic on youtube. Almost all of the info you need and none of the info you don't - I say almost because it doesn't contain torque specs, but those can be found elsewhere. Doug, if you see this. Thanks mate! - I did both sides of my LR4 today following your instructions.
I did this on my 2000 land river disco 2. The procedure was spot on. But now, when I turn left there is a grinding noise and shaking/ vibration. Did it just as you showed, except the rotor retaining screw was stripped, did not replace it.
Wow! Not a single word about torque. That axle nut needs a serious crank according to the shop manuals. I know its kinda controversial cause a lot of old timers just go by feel. But this is meant for the DIY'er who may not have a clue about such things. And if its not torqued right it could/would cause premature failure.Just sayin' ...Also that bearing was the worst I'd ever seen. They start making noise long before they get this bad. Don't know how it could've been driven in this condition. Goes to show how stout they really are.
Quality video. Watched all the way through first. It really prepared me for the job and any unexpected problems. Cleaned those threads on axle before I put my hub back on. Great advice, it really saved me.
This is the first major maintenance I've done on my LR3 and this video, among all the other great resources out there, is the one that helped the most by far. I've looked at some of the other videos from Atlantic British as well for things I plan to do and consider them a first-stop in learning resources. Pretty good selection and prices on the site as well, but navigation could be better there. Anywho, keep up the good videos (especially for the LR3!)
Great video thank you, very useful and very well documented. I have nipped my drive shaft gater when replacing my hub, can I replace this without removing all the assembly? Cheers Garry
Excellent video. Thank you Sir for this. Do we have this assembly at the rear as well? I get these squeeky metal noise from the rear of my 08 RR Sport.
Great Video and advise for front wheel bearing replacement. Easy job in the home garage with a floor jack and blocks. Just need the time and a tool to remove the hub, did have to use some WD or any spray lube to help with the rust. Then just tork all the bolts back.
I wanted to give some information. On my wife's 2006 LR3 with V8 the hub nut was not a 32mm it was a 36. I am not sure if that was a misspeak or if the V8 is larger. Either way make sure you take the new nut to where you are going to be buying the socket if you do not have one. Just an FYI. Besides having to send wife to the store for a new socket , if you remove that time, This job took me 2.5 hours in my garage sitting on the floor from in the drive to in the drive.. So needless to say this was a very easy job. If you look online you can find the service manual with the torque specs. I bought a torque wrench at a pawn shop which saved me as well. Sharing the torque specs. Hub nut was 258 ft/lb and the other nuts were 85 ft/lb the Lug nuts are 103 ft/lbs
Thanks very much for this, your clear commentary made the job easy. Only wish I'd watched it more carefully first time through the other night - would have saved me some hassle in rounding up, mid-job, a 12-point 21mm socket for the brake caliper!
Thanks for great video, have a question: did you use proper torque settings or just used torque wrench on maximum? i have just impact wireless wrench with max 700 ft/lbs will i break something? thanks, btw buyin all the parts in your store
Thanks so much for the video, Doug. How long did it take you to replace the hub assembly? I do have minimal play when I grab my tire from the 3 and 9 o’clock position, but nothing at all when I do it from the 12 and 6 o’clock position. Does this mean the problem could be a on a different part of the suspension? Thanks again. Could it possibly be an upper control arm problem? Thanks again for your time and patience.
excellent presentation. please mention the brake pad wear sensor. I broke mine while removing the caliper. I ve done this job over the week end, I wish i had seen this video before.
"We're gonna take a few swings and knock that right out of there. It might take more than a few." CLANG-CLANG-CLANG-CLANG-CLANG *jump cut to next step* Oh man I really want to know how many it took! 😂
II find that it's easier to tap the heads of the 4 bolts from behind the hub. Just make sure you back out the bolts off the flange progressively as you hit them, or you bottom out the bolt and don't push out tthe hub. My came out easily, and has been in there since new (2006).
Hi Darlene, Here are the parts for the front and rear hub bearing assemblies for the Discovery Series 2: Front -- www.roverparts.com/Parts/TAY100060 Rear -- www.roverparts.com/Parts/TAY100050
Hi Quick question. is there much difference in using the genuine bearing or can you use the timken ones? I need to change on my car and was wondering if there is a substantial difference in the two. Thanks
I used Timken replacements; too early to tell if they'll last as long as the originals (195000 km in my case). Note that the Timken hubs DO NOT come with new hub axle nuts, you have to order them separately,
atlanticbritish thank you for fast response. I was wondering cause my wheel is squeaking til I apply brake and then it starts again when I stop. Replaced brake pads but still doing it. Any thoughts?
Dude!!! This is a great video. Thanks man!!!!
Hey u guys are awesome I don't have the money to take it in to ur garage but love working on my 97 Land Rover Discovery ! Thanks
Very helpful, having these videos is one of the things that sets Atlantic British apart from the rest and why you will always have my order for any LR parts I need
Will you be doing a video on how to change the front knuckle and hub on a Freelander 2 anytime soon ,thanks
Your location
USA
This is the best video on this topic on youtube. Almost all of the info you need and none of the info you don't - I say almost because it doesn't contain torque specs, but those can be found elsewhere.
Doug, if you see this. Thanks mate! - I did both sides of my LR4 today following your instructions.
I did this on my 2000 land river disco 2. The procedure was spot on. But now, when I turn left there is a grinding noise and shaking/ vibration. Did it just as you showed, except the rotor retaining screw was stripped, did not replace it.
Wow! Not a single word about torque. That axle nut needs a serious crank
according to the shop manuals. I know its kinda controversial cause a lot
of old timers just go by feel. But this is meant for the DIY'er who may not
have a clue about such things. And if its not torqued right it could/would cause premature failure.Just sayin' ...Also that bearing was the worst
I'd ever seen. They start making noise long before they get this bad. Don't know how it could've been driven in this condition. Goes to show how stout they really are.
Quality video. Watched all the way through first. It really prepared me for the job and any unexpected problems. Cleaned those threads on axle before I put my hub back on. Great advice, it really saved me.
Is the lr2 the same ?
Use guys always give good instructions!! 💪🏽💪🏽👌🏾
Must be the best windy gun in town, not a torque wrench in sight.😂
Range Rover car four by four ka bearing kaise dalte hain vah bata do
Very useful & straight-forward instructions and socket sizes given. Thank you for an excellent tutorial on replacing the hub assembly on my 20115 LR3!
Best channel for me cuz I have driven Landrovers for 20+ years.. at my detriment may I add, but your videos are just top notch.. thank you!
This is the first major maintenance I've done on my LR3 and this video, among all the other great resources out there, is the one that helped the most by far. I've looked at some of the other videos from Atlantic British as well for things I plan to do and consider them a first-stop in learning resources. Pretty good selection and prices on the site as well, but navigation could be better there.
Anywho, keep up the good videos (especially for the LR3!)
not using a torque wrench? 270nm on the axle nut.
You guys make very informative videos. Keep up the good work.
Great video thank you, very useful and very well documented. I have nipped my drive shaft gater when replacing my hub, can I replace this without removing all the assembly? Cheers Garry
What is the axel nut torque spec?
Excellent video. Thank you Sir for this. Do we have this assembly at the rear as well? I get these squeeky metal noise from the rear of my 08 RR Sport.
super video. i have Range Rover SP HSE TDV6 A 2009. is it same as the car you have worked in the video.
Great Video and advise for front wheel bearing replacement. Easy job in the home garage with a floor jack and blocks. Just need the time and a tool to remove the hub, did have to use some WD or any spray lube to help with the rust. Then just tork all the bolts back.
I wanted to give some information. On my wife's 2006 LR3 with V8 the hub nut was not a 32mm it was a 36. I am not sure if that was a misspeak or if the V8 is larger. Either way make sure you take the new nut to where you are going to be buying the socket if you do not have one. Just an FYI. Besides having to send wife to the store for a new socket , if you remove that time, This job took me 2.5 hours in my garage sitting on the floor from in the drive to in the drive.. So needless to say this was a very easy job. If you look online you can find the service manual with the torque specs. I bought a torque wrench at a pawn shop which saved me as well. Sharing the torque specs. Hub nut was 258 ft/lb and the other nuts were 85 ft/lb the Lug nuts are 103 ft/lbs
The TDV6 (2008 model at least) is definitely 32mm, seems like the V8 and TDV6 differ.
How about a video on rear knuckle bushing replacement.
I'm having issues removing the rear Hub for 2008 Range Rover Sport need help please!!! thank you
Can I take the hub out without removing the disc brake because the Trox screw is stuck
Nope. You have to remove the disc rotor.
Very good video watched them all,
32mm doest work on mine
Great comprehensive video. Thanks
Thanks very much for this, your clear commentary made the job easy.
Only wish I'd watched it more carefully first time through the other night - would have saved me some hassle in rounding up, mid-job, a 12-point 21mm socket for the brake caliper!
Thanks for great video, have a question: did you use proper torque settings or just used torque wrench on maximum? i have just impact wireless wrench with max 700 ft/lbs will i break something? thanks, btw buyin all the parts in your store
Noticed you didn't torque the axle nut on the new bearing. Is that standard practice just to zip it on with the impact?
Thanks so much for the video, Doug. How long did it take you to replace the hub assembly? I do have minimal play when I grab my tire from the 3 and 9 o’clock position, but nothing at all when I do it from the 12 and 6 o’clock position. Does this mean the problem could be a on a different part of the suspension? Thanks again. Could it possibly be an upper control arm problem? Thanks again for your time and patience.
great vid !!!! thank you just fixed my LR3 top man 👍👍👍
Love your guys videos such a big help.
always happy to help!
Great video 👍
excellent presentation.
please mention the brake pad wear sensor. I broke mine while removing the caliper.
I ve done this job over the week end, I wish i had seen this video before.
Excellent video. Is it the same job if it has airbags. ?
great video replace both hubs in 6 hours saved money being diy.
Is this the same procedure for replacing the Hub Assembly on a 2010 LR4?
i just replaced both in front, still hear 'grinding' noise, can it be back ones?
Good tutorial but no copper grease on the hub flange or loctite on the bolts.
Please, please can you do a video on the Drive shaft replacement ..Please Please.. LR3
"We're gonna take a few swings and knock that right out of there. It might take more than a few."
CLANG-CLANG-CLANG-CLANG-CLANG
*jump cut to next step*
Oh man I really want to know how many it took! 😂
II find that it's easier to tap the heads of the 4 bolts from behind the hub. Just make sure you back out the bolts off the flange progressively as you hit them, or you bottom out the bolt and don't push out tthe hub. My came out easily, and has been in there since new (2006).
Thanks Doug - very good video and can only admire the attitude.
mans whipped out the blicky 8:40
Best company for video information
Grear job Doug, any tips gor doing the rear
I wish they had more videos covering rear Barings, dif, cv etc
Thanks a lot. 👍👍👍👍👍
is TRQ a decent brand?
"that's fine, that the way they came from the factory" said no land rover owner ever 😂. Great video. Cheers
@Lennon Jad incredible! Can't wait to try for myself. I hope my girlfriend doesnt see this comment.
I have a 2004 discovery is the part # the same LR014147 ?
Hi Darlene,
Here are the parts for the front and rear hub bearing assemblies for the Discovery Series 2:
Front -- www.roverparts.com/Parts/TAY100060
Rear -- www.roverparts.com/Parts/TAY100050
do you have torque specs?
Great video
Can you make a video for L322 front hub removal?
Hi Bob, you can request for us to make a video here: www.roverparts.com/resources/videos/
Hi
Quick question. is there much difference in using the genuine bearing or can you use the timken ones? I need to change on my car and was wondering if there is a substantial difference in the two.
Thanks
I used Timken replacements; too early to tell if they'll last as long as the originals (195000 km in my case). Note that the Timken hubs DO NOT come with new hub axle nuts, you have to order them separately,
Pretty sure Timkin is OEM
thanks a great help
Do you have any videos for 08 lr2? This assembly is different
Any videos for 2013 Evoque?
Not yet. We do not have an evoque in our stable of fleet vehicles yet.
atlanticbritish thank you for fast response. I was wondering cause my wheel is squeaking til I apply brake and then it starts again when I stop. Replaced brake pads but still doing it. Any thoughts?