Good advice. You can also tell on a uke without binding like that Pono your're holding by examining the visible edge of the top and back. you would also see the plywood there . . . or the solid wood. I have seen ads where the uke is described as a solid instrument referring to the build and not the wood, but designed to deceive. Thanks for your insight as always.
great tutorial addressing the solid vs laminate confusion. From what I've seen, most of the more reputable manufacturers really do a pretty good job of letting you know if their instruments are solid or laminate. You're also correct that a GOOD laminate can be a very nice sounding instrument. Thanks again.
The reputable ones do a good job - beware any brand that uses confusing terms like 'all mahogany' without the word solid (or things like AAA mahogany)..
Interesting, I bought a Luna spruce soprano based on it being described as "solid spruce" on several websites and "solid spruce" on Luna's own demo video. I found it hard to believe given the price (£65) and sure enough it looks very much like 3 ply laminate to me. It's not a terrible instrument now that I've got the nut and saddle sorted out but I wish I'd gone for a Bowley.
fatherkeith what did you do for the nut and saddle? I have two lunas and I think that playing on the first fret is tricky. They are nice, I don't want to get rid of them, but I find myself not playing them much because of how high the first fret action is.
Great video, good info for us new ukulele buyers. On a unrelated topic, what watch are you wearing here? I’m a mechanical watch nerd as well as a ukulele enthusiast!
I purchased a Beautiful Bruce Wie Tenor Ukulele. Bruce Builds some of the most creative designed ukuleles on the Market. Solid Kona wood. Mine has the Hawaiian Islands (7) design w/ mother of pearl inlays. When I received it, looking at The Major sound hole, (Hawai'i), I saw Laminates, and was confused. But on closer inspection, because there are so many "Cut Outs" for the Islands, Bruce has laminated support wood around each cut out, A solid wood Ukulele but with Support laminates around each hole.
Not a fan of them i'm afraid. Don't get me wrong - if you are happy with yours that's just great (and all that matters). But I've seen several that have used poorly seasoned woods or thin woods that have warped and split. I find it hard to recommend them for that reason - not least because it's a long journey to send them back if a problem.
Usually ones with solid tops that are ultra thick - so they can say they are solid, but they have zero resonance or character as they are over built. Sorry, not played an Alulu
Just picked up a Cordoba 50CM, and the top's solid and I'm pretty sure the rest is laminate. That's fine with me, it was $99 and seems to be very nicely built.
thats funny you mention Bruko painting the sound hole. I was holding the 1954 bruko soprano when you said that so I looked and sure enough it is painted around the inside lol. I know it is solid though but I have another brand I was wondering other ways to find out. Cheers!
Another example of ukulele manufacturers using misleading language: there are many models that have a solid top with laminate back and sides. When a manufacturer's website lists specs for their ukuleles, if the back and sides are solid, it'll say so. Looking at the specs for Kala's SOLID SPRUCE MAHOGANY TENOR... TOP: Solid Spruce BACK & SIDES: Mahogany It's likely only the top is solid, the back and sides are probably laminate. As you say, "solid" is a selling point and not a detail they'd omit. In comparison, the specs for Kala's SOLID MAHOGANY TENOR... TOP: Solid Mahogany BACK & SIDES: Solid Mahogany They make it clear that this one is all solid. I know this isn't news to you Baz, but it's something I found confusing when I first started looking for a ukulele. You gotta read beyond the headlines!
does the finish on the back and the inside have to match identically? what if it is kind of a faded version but looks the same direction and type of grain, just doesnt have the boldness and detail of the back?
@@GotAUkulele ahh sorry i meant the grain... i think the finish on the back makes the grain very detailed while inside it looks similar but much less bold, im thinking this is just because of the finish, its a very old guitar im doing this with
@@GotAUkulele I bought it for the sound and am still playing . The sound is good for me even if it is laminate. I may buy a solid wood when I get better. I appreciate your honest information on ukuleles.
Not that I am aware of. My reviews always say so. If a product description does not use the term 'solid' and uses terms like 'all mahogany' or something similar - it will not be solid wood.
+Marlon Dayday depends. A well made laminate will beat a poorly made solid wood instrument. But generally a well made solid wood uke will beat the laminates. Sadly there are a few badly made solid Ukes out there
Not much really as there is a lot of glue / resin between the sheets of wood which stop the wood grains moving with age. To be honest though, the whole concept of 'opening up' of solid wood is hugely subjective anyway. It DOES happen, but it's impossible to objectively tests whether changes are for better or worse! Laminate though is more inert and 'fixed'. I suppose there can be 'some' change, but would be inconsistent and impossible to measure.
Spruce runs in parallel lines about 1 to 3 mm apart. The tighter the grain then all the better. You generally see spruce-top models with the yellowish stain on top (since there's no reason to stain it rich-brown because the grain is boring); however, a bogus uke may have the yellowish stain on top just to give the appearance of being spruce -- so look at the grain. Mahogany and the cheaper sapele look similar but sapele typically has a choppier appearance. In any case, both are hard woods and do the same job. Mahogany: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahogany Personally, I'd prefer a maple back, like they use in violins, but there's not many ukes made with it. ... I've also noticed some are using basswood which is much cheaper and very easy to cut and sand. It typically has a smoother grain but I doubt it is good for any musical instrument and likely give a duller, tissue-box-like sound. ... BTW I wouldn't buy a old "used" uke (particularly online) because there's likely to be something wrong with it -- bent neck, split wood, dried-out wood, etc.
@@lawshorizon basswood is cheap and light and therefore used in a lot of solidbody electric budget guitars. It is NOT a tonewood so stay away from it for ukes.
Catherine Miranda never give individual recommendations - take a look at my full review list on website and look for highest scores in that price section. There are lots I like !
Think you need to read more into the GAU comments on the topic - I say exactly the same regularly. However - the guide is useful for one important reason. Some brands are not clear and it’s important buyers know what to look for
@@GotAUkulele if I get an other uke, it will be an other Kala. I have ka lng which is a gloss soprano long neck uke. It's a laminate, but what a value. I love it. But I'm considering a tenor, and for a laminate striped ebony tenor, the cost is 199 dollars. The same uke with a spruce top is 300. Or I could get a spruce top with laminate mahogany back and sides for 220. I'm thinking I'd be happy with the 199 striped ebony tenor. You think I need a solid top? I'm not a bad uke player, but I'm no Jake shimabukuro. Thanks for your time.
Like I said - I don't think it necessarily matters. I always say I would take a good laminate over a poorly made solid that is 'solid for the sake of it' every time
@@GotAUkulele any recommendations on good 100% solid wood and quality that are available in the US? Im still not sure. I was considering the Cordoba 15 CM- E SB but it turns out to not be solid either. Any help would be appreciated. Take care!
Good advice. You can also tell on a uke without binding like that Pono your're holding by examining the visible edge of the top and back. you would also see the plywood there . . . or the solid wood. I have seen ads where the uke is described as a solid instrument referring to the build and not the wood, but designed to deceive. Thanks for your insight as always.
Thank for the tips! This really helps me to choose the right uke!
My pleasure!
great tutorial addressing the solid vs laminate confusion. From what I've seen, most of the more reputable manufacturers really do a pretty good job of letting you know if their instruments are solid or laminate. You're also correct that a GOOD laminate can be a very nice sounding instrument. Thanks again.
The reputable ones do a good job - beware any brand that uses confusing terms like 'all mahogany' without the word solid (or things like AAA mahogany)..
Very insight full.
Glad you think so!
This is so helpful! Thanks 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Interesting, I bought a Luna spruce soprano based on it being described as "solid spruce" on several websites and "solid spruce" on Luna's own demo video. I found it hard to believe given the price (£65) and sure enough it looks very much like 3 ply laminate to me. It's not a terrible instrument now that I've got the nut and saddle sorted out but I wish I'd gone for a Bowley.
Luna have been known to do that. Just another reason I don’t like them as a brand.
fatherkeith what did you do for the nut and saddle? I have two lunas and I think that playing on the first fret is tricky. They are nice, I don't want to get rid of them, but I find myself not playing them much because of how high the first fret action is.
Great video, good info for us new ukulele buyers. On a unrelated topic, what watch are you wearing here? I’m a mechanical watch nerd as well as a ukulele enthusiast!
Longines Hydroconquest
I purchased a Beautiful Bruce Wie Tenor Ukulele. Bruce Builds some of the most creative designed ukuleles on the Market. Solid Kona wood. Mine has the Hawaiian Islands (7) design w/ mother of pearl inlays. When I received it, looking at The Major sound hole, (Hawai'i), I saw Laminates, and was confused. But on closer inspection, because there are so many "Cut Outs" for the Islands, Bruce has laminated support wood around each cut out, A solid wood Ukulele but with Support laminates around each hole.
Not a fan of them i'm afraid. Don't get me wrong - if you are happy with yours that's just great (and all that matters). But I've seen several that have used poorly seasoned woods or thin woods that have warped and split. I find it hard to recommend them for that reason - not least because it's a long journey to send them back if a problem.
How do you define a cheap solid ukulele- what are your thoughts on the Alulu brand
Usually ones with solid tops that are ultra thick - so they can say they are solid, but they have zero resonance or character as they are over built. Sorry, not played an Alulu
Just picked up a Cordoba 50CM, and the top's solid and I'm pretty sure the rest is laminate. That's fine with me, it was $99 and seems to be very nicely built.
I mean *15CM* woops.
The 15CM is all laminate. ua-cam.com/video/0rIElvocauk/v-deo.html&feature=emb_title
thats funny you mention Bruko painting the sound hole. I was holding the 1954 bruko soprano when you said that so I looked and sure enough it is painted around the inside lol. I know it is solid though but I have another brand I was wondering other ways to find out. Cheers!
Great Advise.
Thanks Brian
Great explanation!
Thanks!
Another example of ukulele manufacturers using misleading language: there are many models that have a solid top with laminate back and sides. When a manufacturer's website lists specs for their ukuleles, if the back and sides are solid, it'll say so.
Looking at the specs for Kala's SOLID SPRUCE MAHOGANY TENOR...
TOP: Solid Spruce
BACK & SIDES: Mahogany
It's likely only the top is solid, the back and sides are probably laminate. As you say, "solid" is a selling point and not a detail they'd omit.
In comparison, the specs for Kala's SOLID MAHOGANY TENOR...
TOP: Solid Mahogany
BACK & SIDES: Solid Mahogany
They make it clear that this one is all solid.
I know this isn't news to you Baz, but it's something I found confusing when I first started looking for a ukulele. You gotta read beyond the headlines!
You are absolutely right!
I have a aria au - 9 is thAt a good ukulele
I haven't played that particular one so hard to say for sure. Have played an all solid concert from Aria and that was pretty good though
does the finish on the back and the inside have to match identically? what if it is kind of a faded version but looks the same direction and type of grain, just doesnt have the boldness and detail of the back?
I don't think the finish is much of a clue - grain can be a help, but as I say - it's not a guaranteed check!
@@GotAUkulele ahh sorry i meant the grain... i think the finish on the back makes the grain very detailed while inside it looks similar but much less bold, im thinking this is just because of the finish, its a very old guitar im doing this with
I was mislead on the lanikai ckcgc that I bought would like to see your review
Catherine Miranda don’t know that model and Lanikai seem reluctant to send me anything for review
@@GotAUkulele I bought it for the sound and am still playing . The sound is good for me even if it is laminate. I may buy a solid wood when I get better. I appreciate your honest information on ukuleles.
Also a play with words....made of "layered" mahogany...etc...
Yes, I hate that. Also saw one brand calling it a 'solid sandwich'..
Is there a list of solid wood ukes?
Not that I am aware of. My reviews always say so. If a product description does not use the term 'solid' and uses terms like 'all mahogany' or something similar - it will not be solid wood.
what is the better sound laminated, solid or koa?
+Marlon Dayday depends. A well made laminate will beat a poorly made solid wood instrument. But generally a well made solid wood uke will beat the laminates. Sadly there are a few badly made solid Ukes out there
do you know how a lamnite wood ukulele over time behave, i meen just wood
Not much really as there is a lot of glue / resin between the sheets of wood which stop the wood grains moving with age. To be honest though, the whole concept of 'opening up' of solid wood is hugely subjective anyway. It DOES happen, but it's impossible to objectively tests whether changes are for better or worse!
Laminate though is more inert and 'fixed'. I suppose there can be 'some' change, but would be inconsistent and impossible to measure.
what is braced?
Minhao Lee, structural wood inside, to reinforce the strength, is bracing. It’s braced.
what if you buy a used ukulele? also if its used how can you tell what kind of wood its made of?
Spruce runs in parallel lines about 1 to 3 mm apart. The tighter the grain then all the better. You generally see spruce-top models with the yellowish stain on top (since there's no reason to stain it rich-brown because the grain is boring); however, a bogus uke may have the yellowish stain on top just to give the appearance of being spruce -- so look at the grain. Mahogany and the cheaper sapele look similar but sapele typically has a choppier appearance. In any case, both are hard woods and do the same job. Mahogany: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahogany Personally, I'd prefer a maple back, like they use in violins, but there's not many ukes made with it. ... I've also noticed some are using basswood which is much cheaper and very easy to cut and sand. It typically has a smoother grain but I doubt it is good for any musical instrument and likely give a duller, tissue-box-like sound. ... BTW I wouldn't buy a old "used" uke (particularly online) because there's likely to be something wrong with it -- bent neck, split wood, dried-out wood, etc.
@@lawshorizon basswood is cheap and light and therefore used in a lot of solidbody electric budget guitars. It is NOT a tonewood so stay away from it for ukes.
I would like to know what you would buy for $500 and 1000 thank you
Catherine Miranda never give individual recommendations - take a look at my full review list on website and look for highest scores in that price section. There are lots I like !
@@GotAUkulele thanks I will!
i didnt know ricky gervais made ukulele videos
+Dr X Nah - he has a goatee and more hair on top of his head..
+GotAUkulele lol
+GotAUkulele nice videos bro!
+Dr X Thanks!
That comment made me do a Ricky Gervais laugh. 😆🤣
I'm not sure that it really matters if your uke has a solid or a laminate top. Both can be very nice instruments.
Think you need to read more into the GAU comments on the topic - I say exactly the same regularly. However - the guide is useful for one important reason. Some brands are not clear and it’s important buyers know what to look for
@@GotAUkulele if I get an other uke, it will be an other Kala. I have ka lng which is a gloss soprano long neck uke. It's a laminate, but what a value. I love it. But I'm considering a tenor, and for a laminate striped ebony tenor, the cost is 199 dollars. The same uke with a spruce top is 300. Or I could get a spruce top with laminate mahogany back and sides for 220. I'm thinking I'd be happy with the 199 striped ebony tenor. You think I need a solid top? I'm not a bad uke player, but I'm no Jake shimabukuro. Thanks for your time.
Like I said - I don't think it necessarily matters. I always say I would take a good laminate over a poorly made solid that is 'solid for the sake of it' every time
Yes..they say its solid Mahogany. Well, it's several layers of Mahogany.. Laminate!
My Kala, KA-T is a great laminate
I hate it when brands do that.
Thanks. Sadly almost all are using misleading verbiage
I thought it was getting better for a little while, but it's now worse than ever..
@@GotAUkulele any recommendations on good 100% solid wood and quality that are available in the US? Im still not sure. I was considering the Cordoba 15 CM- E SB but it turns out to not be solid either. Any help would be appreciated. Take care!
@@TheJonci0322 Pono brand are usually available there
@@GotAUkulele thank you! Take care!
i have a luna tatoo ukulele so does everybody else🐣🐣🐣🐣🐣
Bryan Shull I don’t!
Mines very echoey
Echoey can be good as it's a sign of resonance. Try a string change to another brand you might find it works wonders
I guess the other thing is buying a reputable brand that you can trust?
Yes, mostly. But there are some big brand names that also have misleading descriptions I’m afraid.
why not even playing and showing the sound difference?!?
Because there are literally hundreds of reviews on this channel of both solid and laminate ukuleles that show the sound differences.