I have been playing Martin guitars since 1969. I have 4 12 strings and 5 6 strings, I can tell you first hand Martin has changed their attitude to the "Lifetime" warranty. 1984 I sent one of my D-28s back to Nazareth where they put new frets and fretboard on and generally reset it up nicely. I paid shipping was all. Today, they will give you a run around and send you to "authorized" Martin shops that rarely do your quality of work or, won't do it at all. So nice to watch a craftsman that knows what he is doing, and cares.
@MickCone, That's sad to hear. I mean if the shops can't reinstall a bridge, what are they good for? I wouldn't consider that a huge job. They should at least be able to direct you to shops that will.
As a young un, I played a guitar at World of Strings in Long Beach, which sounded so much better than anything I'd ever heard. It was a Martin. Later, working security for a t.v. show called Don Kirshners Rock concert, a guitarist named Al Di Meola said if you plan on playing the rest of your life, go ahead and invest in a quality guitar. You won't regret it. So later I went to Houston and the worlds largest left-handed guitar shop. I bought the shop owner a pizza and played every guitar for 2 days and ended up buying a.....you guessed it, a Martin 000- 28V.
I live in Austin and the only luthier who touches my stuff is Mark Erlewine. He gives Trigger a yearly once over for Willie Nelson. That's endorsement enough for me.
As a retired tool and die maker of over forty years and guitarist of over fifty, it's always a pleasure to watch a true craftsman ply their trade. Very impressive.
When watching an expert removing and fixing a guitar bridge is way more entertaining than 99 % of the stuff that is on TV these days, then you know that the TV networks are in deep trouble 😂
@@Bjowolf2 who's the expert? It isn't anyone on this channel. Guarantee that. This guys an amateur. The quality of work he does is equal to a 3rd or 4th year repair person. Not even a luthier.
I currently make a living as a carpenter. Watching Jerry makes me want to get a job at Martin guitars. Why not? I live in PA not too far from the factory in Nazerth.
Just a few things: - Bridge removal and replacement - especially on Martins - is a bread and butter job for a professional shop. No pro turns these away because it is easy money. If in fact the Martin-authorized shops took a pass on the job, it was far more likely that they judged it a non-warranty repair and quoted the usual $250-$320 for the work. - Use a 0.0025" or 0.003" feeler gauge (paper is 0.0035") to probe... paper is floppy and gets soggy when water is introduced, and you'll usually want to get some water in when the bridge is on with HHG (I have never reglued a bridge with Titebond... horrible, nasty stuff that should never be use on a decent instrument... creeps cold or hot, contaminates the surfaces, and is a miserable material to clean off wood when cured). - NO... the saddle is NOT glued in... if it is a Martin and has rounded ends, it is a drop-in made to look like a through saddle... which is to say it will lift out. Use a mini end cutter with the edges blunted for the job... $8 for a Husky or other cheap big box mini end cutter. Because ebony these days is always seasoned for far less time time than in years past, it will shrink a bit after fabrication, so a saddle which was a tight fit in the factory at set-up will feel like it is glued after a decade or so. Slowly work it out by moving back and forth along the saddle with the modified end cutter and some scrap wood veneer to protect the top of the bridge. For post-2005 square-ended through saddles, expect to find them glued in with CA... idiotic, but that is what happens when you don't have to fix your own guitars (192g HHG is the correct adhesive for gluing in a through saddle, and they need to be glued in on vintage and even new Martins). If you don't have a good approach to removal of a CA-glued saddle (a saddle mill or heat lamp setup for removal), find someone that does and have them do the job. - NO...do NOT score the finish around the bridge on a post-2005 Martin.... they used a pocketed bridge glue technique on this guitar and all you are doing is creating a stress riser that will cause top failure. If you are not familiar with how Martin does the work, again, find someone that knows what they are doing. And if you want to score a finish for removal such as on a refinish where you forgot to mask, use a fresh needle and light pressure... it is only necessary to score the lacquer - no need to cut all the way through if your scraper is sharp (single edged razor blade with edge turned). - You HAVE to work both sides of the bridge (sound hole side and tailback side) for release on most tops because of grain runout on the book matched top...nature of the material. Runout may work to guide the palette knife blade down towards the bridge plate if you are not paying attention, so determine how much runout/which direction (e.g., rising grain on treble side/descending grain on bass side). If sound hole-side access is limited by the pick guard, just pull it off...these 'peel and stick' pepperoni guards come right off with a pallet knife and naphtha and go right back on with 3M 468 film (eBay), or make another $145 by swapping out that ugly pizza guard for a shop-made Vintage Brown 0.028" guard using the Axiom material or other upgrade cellulose nitrate material. if the top is markedly darker on one side of the centerline than the other, it usually means a significant amount of runout. if you move your viewing angle, the light/dark sides will swap and you will have your answer as to runout direction (light means the grain is rising away from your eye position and dark means grain is rising towards your eye position. -Rock maple rift-sawn bridge PLATE... NOT pad. It is the traditional Martin plate material and at 0.095"-0.105", a good compromise between wear resistance (more is better) and added mass (less is better). Bigger, more massive bridge plates are ALWAYS a bad idea. Ramp and slot the bridge and use good quality hard plastic (Galalith) unslotted pins, then teach your customers how to correctly orient the string balls. Again - a bread and butter job that is a consistent $80 in the door every time. There are luthiers that make a good living pulling those massive rosewood 1970's Martin plates and replacing them with rift-sawn rock maple... focusing on wear resistance and ignoring mass is not a good idea. -Lacquer...not varnish. Totally different materials. One is a drying finish and the other is a curing finish... that matters when doing repair work. Trying to do finish repairs with the wrong material or using the wrong technique creates a heck of a mess. Tung/phenolic varnished guitars are exceedingly rare, but is one of the most durable finishes for a musical instrument ever devised, but it is far more time and material intensive, so seldom used on production instruments. Since Ford and Devilbliss pioneered practical lacquer spray application, Gibson and US-made Martin guitars have always be lacquered with standard instrument lacquers on the body/neck and cat lacquer on satin and a few gloss necks.... one of the reasons why so many newb-made Gibson headstock touchups fail (mine included way back when .... cat lacquer requires more prep and a very solvent-hot initial tack coat for a drop fill or overspray). Again... easy check to verify the finish, and yes - it def matters. - Use some water on the palette knife... you'll need it on pre-1968 and Authentic HHG jobs, and a bit of water on the knife on a Titebond-glued bridge keeps the residue from sticking. A good technique is to warm the pallet knife in hot (not warm... think 150-160 deg F) water... either a Rival Hot Pot or one of those $30 Amazon wax warmers does a good job and is one of those things that every repair bench needs. Keep dipping the knife in the hot water. - You broke the saddle... and it is bone. Bummer... it happens... hopefully just once, given you've learned your lesson. Next time work along the length of the saddle, back and forth - avoiding using one end as a pry bar - and shooting for just a bit of movement (0.010" or less) at each lift. If the saddle cannot be removed, call the customer, get the extra $125 in time and materials approved, and either carefully break it out or use a saddle mill to remove by routing (some of these CA-glued Martins are like this...). - No - the bridge was NOT glued to the finish. Remember - pocketed bridge... possibly some glue residue over the finish if not properly fitted and clamped, but no intent to bond finish to bridge with adhesive. Yes - Martin's early pocket bridges prior to the 'improved' CNC router method had excessive finish left on the top, but there is more than enough clear area for a successful reglue job. Use 315 gram strength HHG and it will be in place long after both of us are dead and gone. Clear the existing patch, heat the bridge to about 160-170 deg F on a hot plate (the old Salton plate warmers are great for this), then precut both surfaces and clamp up. The mass of the bridge will provide a heat reservoir to remelt the HHG on the bridge patch as you snug up the clamps. - For fretboard cleanup, plastic razor blades do the same job as steel, but don't scratch the crap out of the ebony. 0000 stainless steel wool gets you to that satin factory look after the cleanup. - Oil is about 400 times less effective at excluding moisture per mil of thickness than wax, and moisture resistance is the primary reason why we put stuff on the fretboard. Mineral oil will evaporate within a few hours, leaving some fragrance and whatever other contaminates were in the oil. Looks nice for a bit, but useless for protection against player perspiration wicking under fret wire or gumming up the board. Howard's Feed and Wax has wax, some mild citrus-based cleaners, and just enough mineral oil and naphtha to get the cleaning job done. The wax stays behind and seals the fretboard and - more importantly - the fret/board interface - against moisture intrusion. If all you are after is a temporary cosmetic effect, other mineral oils will work for a few hours, but if you want cleaning horsepower and moisture resistance, use Howards. Other than that, certainly an entertaining video and good luck on the non-luthiery projects.
“Just a few things.” Quite the contrary. I found your detailed response to be quite informative. Thank you. I’m no expert but I have eyes. I was distressed to see the finish damage after brute-forcing the bridge removal. The obvious glue residue was discouraging too.
I'm taking a moment during the ads that interrupted your saddle work to express my gratitude. Thank you for sharing your expertise. I've carved antler saddles, but in the future it will become a whole lot easier because of what I'm learning from you. Reinventing the wheel is a waste of time and energy when I can simply follow well-made plans for replicating custom-designed, project-specific equipment that has such a fine history of excellent performance for an expert craftsman. I feel so fortunate to live in this day and age, benefitting from the vast base of knowledge and experience so generously shared by masters in so many fields. Words fail to say it well enough. You probably already know better than I. You make ambitious people's lives better.
LORD HAVE MERCY,,,,,, I was a auto mechanic for almost 30 years and had to quit cause my hands would start cramping up so bad that I could not hold the wrenches anymore. Been retired for 20 years and I have to tell you ,,,,, WATCHING this made my hands started cramping up like they did 20 years ago...... Can't do anything anymore that require that kind of hand work..... Well done sir. I am 70 just in case you are wondering.
You know someone is an expert when you see them skillfully using tools that you would've never ever considered putting near by your instrument 😂 I soped breading whenever the sharp object were touching the guitar... but, ist do satisfaying to see how he handles everything so naturally. I've learned so much, having two beautiful guitars to "take care of"
A very fine example to use for a "real world" bridge repair instructional!! Watching this brought back memories of my very first repair 47 years past. I was young and broke with dreams of building and repairing. I needed to make a saddle after a bridge repair but had no access to materials. I thought deer antler might work so I hit my cousin up for the only piece he had which was very small. I spent an hour just mapping out a cut to yield a blank of hard material just barely long enough to make a saddle. My only tools were a small $5 vise, a coping saw, a file, a 6" machinist rule, and some sandpaper. My workspace was a coffee table. Working slowly and carefully with the sheer desire for a professional result it came out perfectly by anyone's standard!!! I was able to relive the experience by watching your video!! Thank you so much!!!
Sir, I can't play anything except the radio but I thoroughly enjoyed watching your repair. You obviously know what you are doing. Your friend is lucky to have such a friend!
It's the times we're living in. Better to do it yourself, after watching Rosa String Works for the necessary instructions on how to do it the right way, even including how to string up a Martin.
At 48:21 in the video, maybe I'm wrong, but it appears there is either glue, finish chipped out or bare wood exposed at the back of the bridge. I certainly appreciate the advanced level of craftsmanship required for this project (having had neck resets and bridge removals on my Martins over the years), but I would not be satisfied if my guitar was delivered back to me in this condition. If I am wrong about what I think I see in the video, I apologize for the negative feedback.
I'm sorry to say I have to agree. And sanding using the guitar body for support is just not worth the risk, no matter how much pressure is applied. I really enjoyed the banter but....
Good point, at 27:10 we see the glued bridge and it looks fine. At 36:00 we see it again and the spruce near the bridge looks completely different and he never explains this. My guess is the bridge came loose after he drilled it at 27:24 (which I was shocked by, and the amount of wood the drill bit brought out). He should have never drilled the bridge with that bit after gluing it to the top (wtf?), just use the reamer to carefully clear the holes. My advice to all instrument/music lovers, never try to "save money" on a repair. Take it to the best and be prepared to pay. Also, if you are pulling out a glued-in saddle, pull it from the center not the end. Would also like to know the year of the guitar or did I miss it? A good bridge repair video that uses some different techniques: ua-cam.com/video/wZExe86TxLs/v-deo.html
Just a bit of advice from someone that delaminates on a daily basis. Heating this adhesive and working with a single spatula is almost futile in that, the adhesive simply re-adheres when you pull the blade. Work just one small section at a time leaving the blade inserted. Then move on with another blade leaving it inserted and just repeat the process until you get to the end. At this point and if it hasn't already broken lose, simply heat the entire saddle and lift all at one time. Anyways, very nice. Great job.....
@@PatHaskell Of course it's not. However, it is a nixinym. As so defined, we (as consumers of "all be it" language) find it perfectly acceptable to inject herein.
I love the boldness of your strategy juxtaposed with your polite humility. Your string winding was marvelous and a reminder of what skills are lost to retirement if they are not shared. Thank you.
I have been playing (and stringing) guitars for over 55 years and you just taught me a new way to string them that looks easier than the easy way I developed years ago. Thanks.
Well .. my first time watching a video from this creator. Im a fan now. Wouldn't it be great to apprentice with this guy! Someone absolutely needs to. This knowledge needs (MUST) continue. Sir, if you do not yet have an apprentice, please consider taking one on.
I just bought my first Martin guitar and it's similar to this one. It's a 2015 HD28V. It's so nice to watch a pro at work! Here I am at 60 yrs old retired and thinking, "I think I'd like to do this kind of work!" You're a pleasure to watch, sir! 😊 Thanks for posting!
As a aircraft assembly mechanic that sound of that “snick” of that bone saddle into the bridge was music to my ears. Great craftsmanship and I agree with sneaking up on perfect
There was a longtime luthier in my area that I believe rarely declared any stringed instrument as hopeless. Another luthier that owned a guitar shop barely looked at my dad's treasured (but not rare) guitar. As a kid I fiddled withe the truss rod not knowing what it was. The 1940'sh guitar neck was very bowed. Mr. Bowman repaired that guitar AND two other violins. Thankyou for repairing such sentimental treasures. My dad and his friends played string band music for barn dances.
At the start I thought, "Geez! He's talkin' his head off!" But by the time he got to bridge removal, I realized, by golly, this is VERY good step-by-step instruction (and just as important, the rationale for each process)! I've never replaced a bridge, but I'm confident I could view this piece a couple of times and view it as I followed go-stop to do the job. Thank you, sir!
Ive been a wood worker now for ohh 45yrs. A musician for 40. And a string player for 35 of those years. Slowly gathering the tools and what l THOUGHT were the skills necessary to become a luthier. Little did l realize that once l took the leap that my most used tools would end up being my small community's entire supply of one sided safety razor blades and my giant pickle jar full of old bits of partially used sandpaper. All those years.... I had everything l needed right there at my fingertips. Except for clamps. Still buying clamps of every size, shape and construction. Otherwise I'll bet l do a solid 50% of my work with a friggin razor blade!
You do great work on your repairs. Hate to see them coming to and end. The factory glue job was faulty and Martin should have done this under warranty. Good on you for doing what Martin Authorized Repair People would not do.
That crossed my mind also. They took fine care of my wife's 82 HD28. I can only guess that this is not the original owner. The warranty covers the original owner, and is not transferable.
If you're not in US your lifetime guarantee turns to 1 year. I've had to take my Martin for major surgery as it basically folded in two. Had to remove the neck and shave down the heel to be able to get the action down the neck was so out of true. Then again about a year later. Only one of these repairs was covered under guarantee. Martin are living on past reputation
it was fun watching you do this scary repair. Before I took a luthier's course I had a bridge split due to a poorly installed undersaddle pick up (done by a certified luthier). I talked to Jean Larrivee on the phone and he told me to remove the bridge and send it too him and he would make me a copy. He told me that to remove the bridge, I was to use no heat, and to match up a block of hard would with the north side of the bridge and with a large wooden mallet to strike the block with one good hard blow (swinging south toward the tail of the guitar of course) and that that should remove the bridge, and that there might be some chip out to deal with but it should be mostly good. It worked. YIKES! then he sent me the new bridge with all the old chip pieces. ( I live in the middle of now where so that's why I was doing it myself. and I wanted to learn). I had no bridge clamps so I made some blocks to support the bridge plate, cut sacrificial chop sticks for the pin holes, glued up and placed the bridge where it goes with the chopsticks firmly holding things in place, placed the guitar in it's case, forced the lid closed, and got something heavy to rest on the top of the guitar case and left it together for a couple of days. I had lots of squeeze out that was hard to clean up but here we are, 40 years later and the bridge has never lifted, the guitar has had a very active life always getting play'd hard with 13 gauge strings and is still my number one. (it's one of the earliest Dreadnaught style Larrivees) Thanks for your vid. It was very fun to watch.
I doubt all craftsman spend this much time and goes through all these steps in removing/replacing the bridge, redressing the frets/fret board, cleaning etc. He explains every step and why he does it and how it prevents damage etc. This guy is amazing and does a lost art.
I know nothing about guitars - I can't even play one. However, it has been a joy to watch you repair this guitar, step by step, with such precision and care and expertise. Like all great craftsmen, you make the difficult look easy!
Two shops authorized for Martin that couldn't take a bridge off and glue it back, sickening. I would never do business with them for anything and let everyone know it. Even my sorry butt can do it, I learned from the Master, you Jerry. Nice work as always, and as many times I've seen you do it, it never gets old. Now close that shop and enjoy your hiatus.
I can't play a note but as a teenager my closet friend owned a martin built in 1933 this was early 70s in past 50 years I've yet to hear another guitar that had such a Rich and perfect sound actually it's hard to put in to words. He is dead and gone no idea where guitar is but that one guitar made me hit on this video 60 years later
I live in the desert southwest. The humidity can be really low here. Listening to your comments and doing my own research, I've started running a humidifier to help keep the relative humidity at about 40% in the room where I keep by instruments. Per the charts this should be about 7% moisture content in wood. This is also in the range where humans are comfortable. I've also noticed my skin has not been as dry since I started using the humidifier. Thank you for making me less ignorant. :)
Jerry has more patience than anyone I've ever seen. I've got a Martin OM-28V and every time I've ever taken it in asking about any work on it they look at the guitar and especially the through cut bridge and say "everything looks fine". 😄
In my younger years I played in a band and was roommates with a guy who became a quite famous luthier. I'm pretty handy with tools of all sorts, as well as being a musician. If I'd been smart at that age, I might have paid more attention as he and his partner rose to fame with their well-known creations. But, I was preoccupied with my own crazy world. It's possible that I could have learned awesome things, from building to pickup design. Life is funny. You look back sometimes and say, "Hey, I've had six careers." I love this video. I've watched it twice. I am in a business where I always need to be making decisions about how to make things work, and I appreciate anyone who can find solutions, especially in situations where sensitive equipment is at stake, LIKE WITH BEAUTIFUL GUITARS!
Wonderful down home skills and based on the teaser ending - I wouldn't mind just hearing you play. Fifty / sixty years ago I had some of the best guitar players come to various folk clubs that were very popular for a while in England. Cheers Jerry - I'll be back!
I find it fascinating to watch you work and educate people with your decades of expertise. Most factory authorized repair centers only want the easy money jobs and anything that takes a lot of time and knowledge they pass on. Another job well done sir!
I couldn’t play Pop Goes the Weasel on a thousand dollar bet but I love watching you make the mechanical make the art of the music. I enjoyed this one. 🤠 🎶 🎸
When I was a youngster a little shop in town had a "fake shop" list. They where very discreet about it (they didn't advertise having it u just had to know, and u had to ask the right guy there), but if a shop advertised as being "such and such authorized" and turned down a job, they made the list. If you pay nice coin for a nice instrument, there's no reason to be turned down at a shop "authorized" to repair your particular instrument.
Sir, you are a master craftsman and a gifted teacher. I am a recently retired general surgeon and watching you repair that Martin reminds me of how I used to approach things in the O.R. You never knew exactly what you were going to run into and no two patients are alike. Sometimes you just draw upon experience and logic to find the best technique for the job at hand, all the while trying not to let perfection be the enemy of good. I own a D-28 which has lost its pick guard (another common problem with Martins, or so I’m told). I live about 4 miles from the ocean in LA so the humidity tends to be consistently on the higher end of the scale but at least it doesn’t fluctuate much. Perhaps that’s why the finish hasn’t cracked on mine. At any rate, I’ll be taking it back to the shop where my dear old dad bought it as a birthday gift for me back in ‘74 for repair (Westwood Music). Incidentally, I will be adopting your stringing technique in the future. That alone was worth the time to watch the video. I have subscribed and I’m sure you’ll get to 100K in no time. By the way, your daughter-in-law’s singing is just fantastic. I enjoyed the sound track as much as the video. Take care my friend.
I had this beautifull green sunburst like guitar. It was very light but after a while the bridge came loose. Wel actually it didnt came loose, it ripped the wood apart. I turned it in and got it back totally black with two giant screws sticking out of the bridge on the inside. It looks all bumpy where the damage has been. I could cry I can tell you that. I wish I had known Jerry at that time.
Pulled bridges on Martin guitars is actually more common than you think. I’m a luthier in Maryland, and I repair quite a few Martin (and Taylor) bridges each year. I’ve lost track how many.
@@werewolflover8636 an HD-28V is NOT a cheap import. It’s a high end vintage style D-28 with scalloped forward shifted braces and a 1-3/4” nut and modified V neck. Handmade in Nazareth PA. Handmade products are going to be less “perfect” than machine built regardless.
@@redalaska I didn't know Martin even made such a thing. A hard V neck huh? Cool. Does Martin have a custom shop or some equivalent? Yea I can't imagine this thing was "cheap" lol!
I will start by saying that I don't play a stringed instrument. That being said, I have learned a lot about guitars watching you. As my mother often said, "who would have thunk that so much went into making something like that...". Thank you for showing us that you don't have to muscle things but approach woodworking with little finesse and ease into the final product. I really enjoy watching your videos.
I have been using Hyde Glue in the form of Old Brown Glue for attaching bridges. I do like it and heat will take it off again. It also cleans up really easy with a paper towel and hot water.
The technique you did for putting the strings on the peg is a neat way that I'm wanting to use on the next set for my acoustic guitar. Excellent tip !!!
Looks like a major guitar brand is now using your bridge pin mod as a feature. Ibanez AE275 uses it and even markets the design as part of their promotion. It's nice to see some of the mods you do becoming mainstream among major manufacturers.
Hi Jerry, can I just say how much I enjoy watching you work on instruments, you are very knowledgeable and explain how, why, and what for with all you do, keep the good work up, regards from Steve Young, Hull, UK
G'day from Oz ( Australia ) ! ... Rick here ..... First off, Great clip ! :) ... I've been a Luthier / doing builds and repairs since the mid 70's ( I used to own "Rock Repairs" - which was the biggest lutheir shop in Oz for many years ) ... Over the years, I've been a recognised repair agent in Sydney, for Martin, Maton, Col Clark ( the guys who got the shits with Maton and left & started their own brand ... much the same as the Guild guys who left Epiphone/Gibson ), Gibson, Fender, .. and was the go-to-guy for several airlines ( who damaged ALL sorts of musical instruments ) for many decades, as well ..... I've done this job ( bridge replacement ) so many times over the last 50+ years that I've literally lost count .... and also took off "perfectly well glued" bridges on LOTS of Martins whose bridges were WAAAAY out of tune ( with not enough room to move the saddle slot rearwards in order to correct the woefully wrong harmonics - which many Martins have :O :( ... ) ..... I usually not only reposition the saddle, but, I often put in a wider saddle, which then lets me create a custom "harmonically correct saddle" for every string - not just the two E's ..... I'm endlessly AMAZED at the volume of Martins ( in particular ) who's bridges have been placed in the WRONG PLACE - from the factory :O :O :O ...... and I've even come across a few big name brand guitars with the nut-to-first-fret in the wrong place as well :O and THAT throws ALL the intonation OUT !!! .... Loved the clip ! :)
I use to tell my band mates that i could change a busted string in under a minute, well that just might be true now after watching you do it. Thanks for the great video. Subscribed.
Beautiful work as always Jerry, my poor old Martin sure could use that experience and expertise, just have to figure out how to get myself out West!! Enjoy your time off, see you soon.
Great channel. Appreciate your attention to detail and sharing the process with us. Talented craftsman and gentlemen for helping out your friend. Thank you👍👍👍
I’m a luthier in Maryland. I’ve encountered very similar situations, and have learned that Martin will hand out their “Authorized” designations to any schmoe that comes along. And the “Martin Authorized” shops in this area are absolute hacks. I’ve re-repaired so many “authorized” repairs, I’ve completely lost track. HACKS.
It's a real joy to watch a real professional upon whom I give the title "artist"....a true artist. Work was well explained as well. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I'll never be a luthier nor will I do more than change strings but I still very much appreciate your talent.
Excellent work Jerry. Your skills and techniques will be in use probably years after you're gone. You are the best because of your attention to detail. This separates the men from the boys. I see you are trying to slowdown and enjoy a retirement as allowed and well deserved. Thanks for all the years of detailed explanation. Skills beyond reproach. Best wishes from Idaho.
Got to admit the pucker factor was pretty high on that cutting the finish around the bridge trick! Got to be a real satisfying evening after make this instrument sound and look wonderful again.
As a non- guitar playing person I enjoy your channel because you explain why you do the different things when repairing a guitar. Keep the great videos coming.
Hyde glue for ALL repair work...a retired trained luthier who takes pleasure in watching folks do what I did for 30 yrs...and am both entertained and in shock..you do a good job..I have done that bridge removal many times..and fixed many turnaways from fraudsters with no pedigree or training..from ukelele to geetars and violins and violas and cellos and double basses etc..repair and restoration..award winner for a violin I made in 1988...and travelled the world as a luthier teacher and performer..now I play for seniors..in siberia alberta kanada..
@@jonandersonmd7994 not in authentic wood repair...because of it's efficacy and age resistance..proven for centuries..the techno chemicals destroy natural elements..God hates anti hyde glue flateartherz..
@@jonandersonmd7994Not that I know of. I was a piano rebuilder for nearly 20 years. We used hot hide glue for most everything except re-gluing ribs to the soundboard or shimming the soundboard. Liquid hide glue seemed to work as well as hot hide glue but it takes a lot longer to cure.
A very interesting and rewarding trade you have mastered. I'm a guitar player but love seeing the build of hand made guitars, troubleshooting and approaches to doing the repair. This was a great learning hour and I also learned a easier way to restring. Thank you!
Love your video's. Martin returned my 1970 D28 to me after a belly under the bridge repair saying "You must humidify" which I have done fairly religiously to an old Washburn and a new Froggy as well. But now my heads spinning. Your 6% moisture theory makes perfect sense. This really needs discussion somewhere. Must be thousands of people all highly humidifying when it's unnecessary and maybe even detrimental. Want to share this info with other "experts" and see what they think. Should be interesting! Thankyou for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for showing this excellent nowhow. I just love experience and real craftmanship. I am not in guitar business or anything but I just love this. My dad played jazz bass from the -50´s here in Sweden until a year ago. He also played with Ella Fitzgerald when she visited here. That was of topic but I just love great work. Tank you for exist.
I’m following many luthiers on UA-cam, none of them use your method of sanding the frets. Remarkable, because your theory makes sense, it seems more effective and efficient to me.
I have to tell you, I almost cringed when I first started watching you remove the saddle on the Martin HD 28, but after just a couple minutes, I realized how delicately and precise your movements were. Obviously you just instinctively let your many years of repair experience show your exacting movements. You know your way around a guitar much like a chef knows his or her way around a kitchen but with 1000’s of a inch precision. I had to watch the entire video even though I am sure I will never attempt this on any of my 3 Martins. My favorite is my Martin HD 28 LSV ( large sound hole) . I love to see real craftsmanship. I am a 77 yr old …. mostly just guitar and fiddle holder. I now know how this should be done. Thanks.
Great video. I picked up some important knowledge from you, thanks. You’ve inspired me to start a new (part time) career as a luthier in a local music store, fixing bowed instruments.
ONE OF THE ABSOLUTE FINEST LUTHIERS A REAL PRIVILEGE AND TO WATCH YOU WORK AND learn from your great years of experience and your hands perform miracles very gifted Rosa string works
It's such a pleasure watching you fix a stringed instrument. You are a true craftsman Jerry. Been watching you for a couple of years now and everytime I watched you fix a guitar or a mandolin, you have nailed it perfectly. It seems like you haven't really retired from it yet, even though I think I remember you saying you were gonna retire. You're son looks like he is going to be a good craftsman too. I have a 1971 Epiphone 12 string a friend of mine gave me about 35 yrs ago that his mother put in the attic next to a radiator for a yr and the pull of the strings with the hot and cold temps folded it and broke the neck block in two and folded the top so the laminated pieces of the top seperated. Really don't know what to do with it but it still sits in the closet. Are you interested? Haha. Maybe you got a video for something like that in your collection. Anyhow love your work.
@@RosaStringWorks Well I am glad to hear you are not retired, but try not to work too hard on your hiatus. Find time to relax and enjoy a beer or cocktail. I am going to make a video of my broken 12 string but it might not be worth paying the price to repair it, which would probably be more than what the guitar is worth. Enjoy your hiatus buddy.
I have a 12 string that did the same thing, the top has wrinkled at the base of the neck. Of course the neck has lifted to where I quit using it. Good luck.
I live in New England, and I've never humidified any of my guitars, I do however ALWAYS store them in their hard cases. I have friends who hang their guitars on the wall, and almost all of them have had cracks or warping due to hanging them on the wall, as our humidity here runs from as low as 40% to as high as 100% on any given day. That can literally change from one extreme to the other in less than 24 hours. I have never had a guitar crack or warp keeping them in the case when not in use. I have a Washburn Woodstock acoustic, a Godin La Patrie Concert QT parlor Classical, an Epiphone Broadway jazz box, and a Fender Telecaster Special. All of them are in pristine condition with very little wear due to always being stored in their cases. The only dings and dents came from me being the gorilla that I am, and turning and whacking them on a mic stand or cymbal stand, etc... LOL. But never any cracks or warps due to humidity. Just my 2 Cents. I will agree with Jerry, and his 40 plus years experience. Unless you live in Canada or the South-western desert, you probably won't have to humidify your guitars.
I'm a longtime woodworker, but have never done anything like you do! I appreciate craftsmen like you so much!
Then what have you done? Just asking, it amazes me you did not do similar repairs. For boats like canoes, you definitely do such things, right?
Lordy.. 70 yrs old.. and I still learned alot. Thanks.
I have been playing Martin guitars since 1969. I have 4 12 strings and 5 6 strings, I can tell you first hand Martin has changed their attitude to the "Lifetime" warranty. 1984 I sent one of my D-28s back to Nazareth where they put new frets and fretboard on and generally reset it up nicely. I paid shipping was all. Today, they will give you a run around and send you to "authorized" Martin shops that rarely do your quality of work or, won't do it at all. So nice to watch a craftsman that knows what he is doing, and cares.
@MickCone, That's sad to hear. I mean if the shops can't reinstall a bridge, what are they good for? I wouldn't consider that a huge job. They should at least be able to direct you to shops that will.
As a young un, I played a guitar at World of Strings in Long Beach, which sounded so much better than anything I'd ever heard. It was a Martin. Later, working security for a t.v. show called Don Kirshners Rock concert, a guitarist named Al Di Meola said if you plan on playing the rest of your life, go ahead and invest in a quality guitar. You won't regret it. So later I went to Houston and the worlds largest left-handed guitar shop. I bought the shop owner a pizza and played every guitar for 2 days and ended up buying a.....you guessed it, a Martin 000- 28V.
@@ericmadeoftin8206 Well that is true, all the guitars but one that I bought are worth a lot more than I played for them.
Going to the Martin Company is even more frustrating atleast for a Bass player, it's just a museum with one or two basses without a follow up
I live in Austin and the only luthier who touches my stuff is Mark Erlewine. He gives Trigger a yearly once over for Willie Nelson. That's endorsement enough for me.
As a retired tool and die maker of over forty years and guitarist of over fifty, it's always a pleasure to watch a true craftsman ply their trade. Very impressive.
When watching an expert removing and fixing a guitar bridge is way more entertaining than 99 % of the stuff that is on TV these days, then you know that the TV networks are in deep trouble 😂
You say that..but would our wives watch this?
In today’s world its good to watch something creative and postive for a change
I totally agree! 😊
@@allosaurusfragilis7782hilarious!
I watch these at night to put my little boy to sleep.
@@Bjowolf2 who's the expert? It isn't anyone on this channel. Guarantee that. This guys an amateur. The quality of work he does is equal to a 3rd or 4th year repair person. Not even a luthier.
I currently make a living as a carpenter. Watching Jerry makes me want to get a job at Martin guitars. Why not? I live in PA not too far from the factory in Nazerth.
Just a few things:
- Bridge removal and replacement - especially on Martins - is a bread and butter job for a professional shop. No pro turns these away because it is easy money. If in fact the Martin-authorized shops took a pass on the job, it was far more likely that they judged it a non-warranty repair and quoted the usual $250-$320 for the work.
- Use a 0.0025" or 0.003" feeler gauge (paper is 0.0035") to probe... paper is floppy and gets soggy when water is introduced, and you'll usually want to get some water in when the bridge is on with HHG (I have never reglued a bridge with Titebond... horrible, nasty stuff that should never be use on a decent instrument... creeps cold or hot, contaminates the surfaces, and is a miserable material to clean off wood when cured).
- NO... the saddle is NOT glued in... if it is a Martin and has rounded ends, it is a drop-in made to look like a through saddle... which is to say it will lift out. Use a mini end cutter with the edges blunted for the job... $8 for a Husky or other cheap big box mini end cutter. Because ebony these days is always seasoned for far less time time than in years past, it will shrink a bit after fabrication, so a saddle which was a tight fit in the factory at set-up will feel like it is glued after a decade or so. Slowly work it out by moving back and forth along the saddle with the modified end cutter and some scrap wood veneer to protect the top of the bridge. For post-2005 square-ended through saddles, expect to find them glued in with CA... idiotic, but that is what happens when you don't have to fix your own guitars (192g HHG is the correct adhesive for gluing in a through saddle, and they need to be glued in on vintage and even new Martins). If you don't have a good approach to removal of a CA-glued saddle (a saddle mill or heat lamp setup for removal), find someone that does and have them do the job.
- NO...do NOT score the finish around the bridge on a post-2005 Martin.... they used a pocketed bridge glue technique on this guitar and all you are doing is creating a stress riser that will cause top failure. If you are not familiar with how Martin does the work, again, find someone that knows what they are doing. And if you want to score a finish for removal such as on a refinish where you forgot to mask, use a fresh needle and light pressure... it is only necessary to score the lacquer - no need to cut all the way through if your scraper is sharp (single edged razor blade with edge turned).
- You HAVE to work both sides of the bridge (sound hole side and tailback side) for release on most tops because of grain runout on the book matched top...nature of the material. Runout may work to guide the palette knife blade down towards the bridge plate if you are not paying attention, so determine how much runout/which direction (e.g., rising grain on treble side/descending grain on bass side). If sound hole-side access is limited by the pick guard, just pull it off...these 'peel and stick' pepperoni guards come right off with a pallet knife and naphtha and go right back on with 3M 468 film (eBay), or make another $145 by swapping out that ugly pizza guard for a shop-made Vintage Brown 0.028" guard using the Axiom material or other upgrade cellulose nitrate material. if the top is markedly darker on one side of the centerline than the other, it usually means a significant amount of runout. if you move your viewing angle, the light/dark sides will swap and you will have your answer as to runout direction (light means the grain is rising away from your eye position and dark means grain is rising towards your eye position.
-Rock maple rift-sawn bridge PLATE... NOT pad. It is the traditional Martin plate material and at 0.095"-0.105", a good compromise between wear resistance (more is better) and added mass (less is better). Bigger, more massive bridge plates are ALWAYS a bad idea. Ramp and slot the bridge and use good quality hard plastic (Galalith) unslotted pins, then teach your customers how to correctly orient the string balls. Again - a bread and butter job that is a consistent $80 in the door every time. There are luthiers that make a good living pulling those massive rosewood 1970's Martin plates and replacing them with rift-sawn rock maple... focusing on wear resistance and ignoring mass is not a good idea.
-Lacquer...not varnish. Totally different materials. One is a drying finish and the other is a curing finish... that matters when doing repair work. Trying to do finish repairs with the wrong material or using the wrong technique creates a heck of a mess. Tung/phenolic varnished guitars are exceedingly rare, but is one of the most durable finishes for a musical instrument ever devised, but it is far more time and material intensive, so seldom used on production instruments. Since Ford and Devilbliss pioneered practical lacquer spray application, Gibson and US-made Martin guitars have always be lacquered with standard instrument lacquers on the body/neck and cat lacquer on satin and a few gloss necks.... one of the reasons why so many newb-made Gibson headstock touchups fail (mine included way back when .... cat lacquer requires more prep and a very solvent-hot initial tack coat for a drop fill or overspray). Again... easy check to verify the finish, and yes - it def matters.
- Use some water on the palette knife... you'll need it on pre-1968 and Authentic HHG jobs, and a bit of water on the knife on a Titebond-glued bridge keeps the residue from sticking. A good technique is to warm the pallet knife in hot (not warm... think 150-160 deg F) water... either a Rival Hot Pot or one of those $30 Amazon wax warmers does a good job and is one of those things that every repair bench needs. Keep dipping the knife in the hot water.
- You broke the saddle... and it is bone. Bummer... it happens... hopefully just once, given you've learned your lesson. Next time work along the length of the saddle, back and forth - avoiding using one end as a pry bar - and shooting for just a bit of movement (0.010" or less) at each lift. If the saddle cannot be removed, call the customer, get the extra $125 in time and materials approved, and either carefully break it out or use a saddle mill to remove by routing (some of these CA-glued Martins are like this...).
- No - the bridge was NOT glued to the finish. Remember - pocketed bridge... possibly some glue residue over the finish if not properly fitted and clamped, but no intent to bond finish to bridge with adhesive. Yes - Martin's early pocket bridges prior to the 'improved' CNC router method had excessive finish left on the top, but there is more than enough clear area for a successful reglue job. Use 315 gram strength HHG and it will be in place long after both of us are dead and gone. Clear the existing patch, heat the bridge to about 160-170 deg F on a hot plate (the old Salton plate warmers are great for this), then precut both surfaces and clamp up. The mass of the bridge will provide a heat reservoir to remelt the HHG on the bridge patch as you snug up the clamps.
- For fretboard cleanup, plastic razor blades do the same job as steel, but don't scratch the crap out of the ebony. 0000 stainless steel wool gets you to that satin factory look after the cleanup.
- Oil is about 400 times less effective at excluding moisture per mil of thickness than wax, and moisture resistance is the primary reason why we put stuff on the fretboard. Mineral oil will evaporate within a few hours, leaving some fragrance and whatever other contaminates were in the oil. Looks nice for a bit, but useless for protection against player perspiration wicking under fret wire or gumming up the board. Howard's Feed and Wax has wax, some mild citrus-based cleaners, and just enough mineral oil and naphtha to get the cleaning job done. The wax stays behind and seals the fretboard and - more importantly - the fret/board interface - against moisture intrusion. If all you are after is a temporary cosmetic effect, other mineral oils will work for a few hours, but if you want cleaning horsepower and moisture resistance, use Howards.
Other than that, certainly an entertaining video and good luck on the non-luthiery projects.
“Just a few things.” Quite the contrary. I found your detailed response to be quite informative. Thank you.
I’m no expert but I have eyes. I was distressed to see the finish damage after brute-forcing the bridge removal. The obvious glue residue was discouraging too.
Your the guy I want working on my guitar
I'm taking a moment during the ads that interrupted your saddle work to express my gratitude. Thank you for sharing your expertise. I've carved antler saddles, but in the future it will become a whole lot easier because of what I'm learning from you. Reinventing the wheel is a waste of time and energy when I can simply follow well-made plans for replicating custom-designed, project-specific equipment that has such a fine history of excellent performance for an expert craftsman. I feel so fortunate to live in this day and age, benefitting from the vast base of knowledge and experience so generously shared by masters in so many fields. Words fail to say it well enough. You probably already know better than I. You make ambitious people's lives better.
LORD HAVE MERCY,,,,,, I was a auto mechanic for almost 30 years and had to quit cause my hands would
start cramping up so bad that I could not hold the wrenches anymore. Been retired for 20 years and I have
to tell you ,,,,, WATCHING this made my hands started cramping up like they did 20 years ago......
Can't do anything anymore that require that kind of hand work..... Well done sir. I am 70 just in case you are
wondering.
Yep…
You know someone is an expert when you see them skillfully using tools that you would've never ever considered putting near by your instrument 😂 I soped breading whenever the sharp object were touching the guitar... but, ist do satisfaying to see how he handles everything so naturally. I've learned so much, having two beautiful guitars to "take care of"
got on this by accident, but watched the whole video anyway. i love watching people with a passion for what they do.
A very fine example to use for a "real world" bridge repair instructional!! Watching this brought back memories of my very first repair 47 years past. I was young and broke with dreams of building and repairing. I needed to make a saddle after a bridge repair but had no access to materials. I thought deer antler might work so I hit my cousin up for the only piece he had which was very small. I spent an hour just mapping out a cut to yield a blank of hard material just barely long enough to make a saddle. My only tools were a small $5 vise, a coping saw, a file, a 6" machinist rule, and some sandpaper. My workspace was a coffee table. Working slowly and carefully with the sheer desire for a professional result it came out perfectly by anyone's standard!!! I was able to relive the experience by watching your video!! Thank you so much!!!
love older craftsman showing these young bucks how to do it
Hailing from Seattle, WA. This well done video is representation of brilliant craftsmanship and quality repair. Thank you for sharing!
I am a drummer but I love watching these amazing repairs!
Aaah, craftsmanship, experience, and passion in harmony, a joy to behold.
Always a pleasure to watch a nice job by a Professional.
Wonderful job. Thanks very much
Sir, I can't play anything except the radio but I thoroughly enjoyed watching your repair. You obviously know what you are doing. Your friend is lucky to have such a friend!
thanks for the mention ole buddy I owe ya a few once I get back into making videos steady again. nice work on this guitar!
Love watching Jerry work and hearing his various wisdom on instrument repair, life, etc. He's the kind of guy you wish was your neighbor.
It's the times we're living in. Better to do it yourself, after watching Rosa String Works for the necessary instructions on how to do it the right way, even including how to string up a Martin.
At 48:21 in the video, maybe I'm wrong, but it appears there is either glue, finish chipped out or bare wood exposed at the back of the bridge. I certainly appreciate the advanced level of craftsmanship required for this project (having had neck resets and bridge removals on my Martins over the years), but I would not be satisfied if my guitar was delivered back to me in this condition. If I am wrong about what I think I see in the video, I apologize for the negative feedback.
I was surprised to see that as well. I went back to the beginning of the video to confirm that it was not there to start. Unfortunate.
I'm sorry to say I have to agree. And sanding using the guitar body for support is just not worth the risk, no matter how much pressure is applied. I really enjoyed the banter but....
Good point, at 27:10 we see the glued bridge and it looks fine. At 36:00 we see it again and the spruce near the bridge looks completely different and he never explains this. My guess is the bridge came loose after he drilled it at 27:24 (which I was shocked by, and the amount of wood the drill bit brought out). He should have never drilled the bridge with that bit after gluing it to the top (wtf?), just use the reamer to carefully clear the holes. My advice to all instrument/music lovers, never try to "save money" on a repair. Take it to the best and be prepared to pay. Also, if you are pulling out a glued-in saddle, pull it from the center not the end. Would also like to know the year of the guitar or did I miss it? A good bridge repair video that uses some different techniques:
ua-cam.com/video/wZExe86TxLs/v-deo.html
At 27:10, when the clamps are removed, there is a scratch that appears between the sound hole and the bridge, I think something happened?
Love to watch the old bucks with the craftsmanship!
A true craftsman! What a pleasure watching you work!
Thanks for your efforts to show us your repair techniques. I have learned a few things and had a lot of fun watching. God Bless you. Much love.
Just a bit of advice from someone that delaminates on a daily basis. Heating this adhesive and working with a single spatula is almost futile in that, the adhesive simply re-adheres when you pull the blade. Work just one small section at a time leaving the blade inserted. Then move on with another blade leaving it inserted and just repeat the process until you get to the end. At this point and if it hasn't already broken lose, simply heat the entire saddle and lift all at one time. Anyways, very nice. Great job.....
Sounds like good advice
Anyway, anyways is not a word.
@@PatHaskell Of course it's not. However, it is a nixinym. As so defined, we (as consumers of "all be it" language) find it perfectly acceptable to inject herein.
@@PatHaskellYes it is. If people say it, it's a word. Typically used by people in the upper midwest. BTW, do think "aint" is not a word?
I love the boldness of your strategy juxtaposed with your polite humility. Your string winding was marvelous and a reminder of what skills are lost to retirement if they are not shared. Thank you.
I have been playing (and stringing) guitars for over 55 years and you just taught me a new way to string them that looks easier than the easy way I developed years ago. Thanks.
Well .. my first time watching a video from this creator. Im a fan now. Wouldn't it be great to apprentice with this guy! Someone absolutely needs to. This knowledge needs (MUST) continue.
Sir, if you do not yet have an apprentice, please consider taking one on.
“I’m [glued] all over again.”
Thank you for sharing your time to do this repair for your friend. This was a great repair to witness.
I just bought my first Martin guitar and it's similar to this one. It's a 2015 HD28V. It's so nice to watch a pro at work! Here I am at 60 yrs old retired and thinking, "I think I'd like to do this kind of work!" You're a pleasure to watch, sir! 😊 Thanks for posting!
As a aircraft assembly mechanic that sound of that “snick” of that bone saddle into the bridge was music to my ears. Great craftsmanship and I agree with sneaking up on perfect
There was a longtime luthier in my area that I believe rarely declared any stringed instrument as hopeless. Another luthier that owned a guitar shop barely looked at my dad's treasured (but not rare) guitar. As a kid I fiddled withe the truss rod not knowing what it was. The 1940'sh guitar neck was very bowed. Mr. Bowman repaired that guitar AND two other violins. Thankyou for repairing such sentimental treasures. My dad and his friends played string band music for barn dances.
At the start I thought, "Geez! He's talkin' his head off!" But by the time he got to bridge removal, I realized, by golly, this is VERY good step-by-step instruction (and just as important, the rationale for each process)! I've never replaced a bridge, but I'm confident I could view this piece a couple of times and view it as I followed go-stop to do the job. Thank you, sir!
Ive been a wood worker now for ohh 45yrs. A musician for 40. And a string player for 35 of those years. Slowly gathering the tools and what l THOUGHT were the skills necessary to become a luthier.
Little did l realize that once l took the leap that my most used tools would end up being my small community's entire supply of one sided safety razor blades and my giant pickle jar full of old bits of partially used sandpaper.
All those years.... I had everything l needed right there at my fingertips.
Except for clamps. Still buying clamps of every size, shape and construction.
Otherwise I'll bet l do a solid 50% of my work with a friggin razor blade!
You do great work on your repairs. Hate to see them coming to and end.
The factory glue job was faulty and Martin should have done this under warranty.
Good on you for doing what Martin Authorized Repair People would not do.
I had an instinctive thought indicating those who refused repair were not confident about their ability to repair ... 😮
So much for Martin's lifetime warranty and also their quality control.
That crossed my mind also. They took fine care of my wife's 82 HD28. I can only guess that this is not the original owner. The warranty covers the original owner, and is not transferable.
@@noisefuljoy yup. I love used Martins that have been taken care of. No warranty though!!
@@noisefuljoy Sounded to me like the wouldn't even do the work for money, though.
If you're not in US your lifetime guarantee turns to 1 year. I've had to take my Martin for major surgery as it basically folded in two. Had to remove the neck and shave down the heel to be able to get the action down the neck was so out of true. Then again about a year later. Only one of these repairs was covered under guarantee. Martin are living on past reputation
@@Simbosan dang man. What gauge strings did you have on it?
My Martin is the biggest baby of my kids. Great job!
it was fun watching you do this scary repair. Before I took a luthier's course I had a bridge split due to a poorly installed undersaddle pick up (done by a certified luthier). I talked to Jean Larrivee on the phone and he told me to remove the bridge and send it too him and he would make me a copy. He told me that to remove the bridge, I was to use no heat, and to match up a block of hard would with the north side of the bridge and with a large wooden mallet to strike the block with one good hard blow (swinging south toward the tail of the guitar of course) and that that should remove the bridge, and that there might be some chip out to deal with but it should be mostly good. It worked. YIKES! then he sent me the new bridge with all the old chip pieces. ( I live in the middle of now where so that's why I was doing it myself. and I wanted to learn). I had no bridge clamps so I made some blocks to support the bridge plate, cut sacrificial chop sticks for the pin holes, glued up and placed the bridge where it goes with the chopsticks firmly holding things in place, placed the guitar in it's case, forced the lid closed, and got something heavy to rest on the top of the guitar case and left it together for a couple of days. I had lots of squeeze out that was hard to clean up but here we are, 40 years later and the bridge has never lifted, the guitar has had a very active life always getting play'd hard with 13 gauge strings and is still my number one. (it's one of the earliest Dreadnaught style Larrivees)
Thanks for your vid. It was very fun to watch.
I was quoted $80-$125 for a bridge reset and I thought that was expensive. After watching this video I see now what a deal that is. Thanks!
This was amazing to watch. Very sadly, true Craftsmen like yourself are a rarity these days. Thank you for sharing!
I doubt all craftsman spend this much time and goes through all these steps in removing/replacing the bridge, redressing the frets/fret board, cleaning etc. He explains every step and why he does it and how it prevents damage etc. This guy is amazing and does a lost art.
I know nothing about guitars - I can't even play one. However, it has been a joy to watch you repair this guitar, step by step, with such precision and care and expertise. Like all great craftsmen, you make the difficult look easy!
Bravo! Well done! It's not just your attention to detail. That you share the how and why, as you go, makes it such a great vid.
Two shops authorized for Martin that couldn't take a bridge off and glue it back, sickening. I would never do business with them for anything and let everyone know it. Even my sorry butt can do it, I learned from the Master, you Jerry. Nice work as always, and as many times I've seen you do it, it never gets old. Now close that shop and enjoy your hiatus.
I have no idea how they would even call themselves luthiers when they cant even unglue a bridge!
I can't play a note but as a teenager my closet friend owned a martin built in 1933 this was early 70s in past 50 years I've yet to hear another guitar that had such a Rich and perfect sound actually it's hard to put in to words. He is dead and gone no idea where guitar is but that one guitar made me hit on this video 60 years later
I live in the desert southwest. The humidity can be really low here. Listening to your comments and doing my own research, I've started running a humidifier to help keep the relative humidity at about 40% in the room where I keep by instruments. Per the charts this should be about 7% moisture content in wood. This is also in the range where humans are comfortable. I've also noticed my skin has not been as dry since I started using the humidifier. Thank you for making me less ignorant. :)
We're all ignorant, just on different subjects. - Will Rogers
Jerry has more patience than anyone I've ever seen. I've got a Martin OM-28V and every time I've ever taken it in asking about any work on it they look at the guitar and especially the through cut bridge and say "everything looks fine". 😄
The first thing that a person needs in this kind of work is unwavering confidence. The suspense is killing me.
In my younger years I played in a band and was roommates with a guy who became a quite famous luthier. I'm pretty handy with tools of all sorts, as well as being a musician. If I'd been smart at that age, I might have paid more attention as he and his partner rose to fame with their well-known creations. But, I was preoccupied with my own crazy world. It's possible that I could have learned awesome things, from building to pickup design. Life is funny. You look back sometimes and say, "Hey, I've had six careers." I love this video. I've watched it twice. I am in a business where I always need to be making decisions about how to make things work, and I appreciate anyone who can find solutions, especially in situations where sensitive equipment is at stake, LIKE WITH BEAUTIFUL GUITARS!
That’s a man who absolutely knows his craft. My first time watching your channel and I thoroughly enjoyed it. You’ve certainly earned my subscription.
He's an amateur
Do tell, professor.
Wonderful down home skills and based on the teaser ending - I wouldn't mind just hearing you play. Fifty / sixty years ago I had some of the best guitar players come to various folk clubs that were very popular for a while in England. Cheers Jerry - I'll be back!
I find it fascinating to watch you work and educate people with your decades of expertise. Most factory authorized repair centers only want the easy money jobs and anything that takes a lot of time and knowledge they pass on. Another job well done sir!
I couldn’t play Pop Goes the Weasel on a thousand dollar bet but I love watching you make the mechanical make the art of the music. I enjoyed this one. 🤠 🎶 🎸
When I was a youngster a little shop in town had a "fake shop" list. They where very discreet about it (they didn't advertise having it u just had to know, and u had to ask the right guy there), but if a shop advertised as being "such and such authorized" and turned down a job, they made the list.
If you pay nice coin for a nice instrument, there's no reason to be turned down at a shop "authorized" to repair your particular instrument.
Your daughter in law sounds great and the song has a great hook.
Sir, you are a master craftsman and a gifted teacher. I am a recently retired general surgeon and watching you repair that Martin reminds me of how I used to approach things in the O.R. You never knew exactly what you were going to run into and no two patients are alike. Sometimes you just draw upon experience and logic to find the best technique for the job at hand, all the while trying not to let perfection be the enemy of good. I own a D-28 which has lost its pick guard (another common problem with Martins, or so I’m told). I live about 4 miles from the ocean in LA so the humidity tends to be consistently on the higher end of the scale but at least it doesn’t fluctuate much. Perhaps that’s why the finish hasn’t cracked on mine. At any rate, I’ll be taking it back to the shop where my dear old dad bought it as a birthday gift for me back in ‘74 for repair (Westwood Music). Incidentally, I will be adopting your stringing technique in the future. That alone was worth the time to watch the video. I have subscribed and I’m sure you’ll get to 100K in no time. By the way, your daughter-in-law’s singing is just fantastic. I enjoyed the sound track as much as the video. Take care my friend.
No one cares about surgeons. lol Write a book.
@@foobarmaximus3506 They care a lot when they're about to go under the knife.
I had this beautifull green sunburst like guitar. It was very light but after a while the bridge came loose. Wel actually it didnt came loose, it ripped the wood apart. I turned it in and got it back totally black with two giant screws sticking out of the bridge on the inside. It looks all bumpy where the damage has been. I could cry I can tell you that. I wish I had known Jerry at that time.
For the price of Martin guitars you would NOT expect faulty workmanship , surprised me to see bridge not stuck properly . Good job BTW.
Pulled bridges on Martin guitars is actually more common than you think. I’m a luthier in Maryland, and I repair quite a few Martin (and Taylor) bridges each year. I’ve lost track how many.
You'd also be surprised how many Martins and Taylors are foreign counterfeits that are so close it takes a real expert to spot the fake.
This is a cheaper import model, not one of their American handcrafted ones! You get what you pay for!
@@werewolflover8636 an HD-28V is NOT a cheap import. It’s a high end vintage style D-28 with scalloped forward shifted braces and a 1-3/4” nut and modified V neck. Handmade in Nazareth PA.
Handmade products are going to be less “perfect” than machine built regardless.
@@redalaska I didn't know Martin even made such a thing. A hard V neck huh? Cool. Does Martin have a custom shop or some equivalent? Yea I can't imagine this thing was "cheap" lol!
Knowledge and craftsmanship through experience, you can't beat it, though it may require a gentle strum now and then.
I will start by saying that I don't play a stringed instrument. That being said, I have learned a lot about guitars watching you. As my mother often said, "who would have thunk that so much went into making something like that...". Thank you for showing us that you don't have to muscle things but approach woodworking with little finesse and ease into the final product. I really enjoy watching your videos.
I have been using Hyde Glue in the form of Old Brown Glue for attaching bridges. I do like it and heat will take it off again. It also cleans up really easy with a paper towel and hot water.
The technique you did for putting the strings on the peg is a neat way that I'm wanting to use on the next set for my acoustic guitar. Excellent tip !!!
I've been a carpenter for a half century, and I learned a few things in this video. Thanks.
Looks like a major guitar brand is now using your bridge pin mod as a feature. Ibanez AE275 uses it and even markets the design as part of their promotion. It's nice to see some of the mods you do becoming mainstream among major manufacturers.
Thank-you for explaining the issues and how to fix them! " Outstanding Job sir " !
Hi Jerry, can I just say how much I enjoy watching you work on instruments, you are very knowledgeable and explain how, why, and what for with all you do, keep the good work up, regards from Steve Young, Hull, UK
G'day from Oz ( Australia ) ! ... Rick here ..... First off, Great clip ! :) ... I've been a Luthier / doing builds and repairs since the mid 70's ( I used to own "Rock Repairs" - which was the biggest lutheir shop in Oz for many years ) ... Over the years, I've been a recognised repair agent in Sydney, for Martin, Maton, Col Clark ( the guys who got the shits with Maton and left & started their own brand ... much the same as the Guild guys who left Epiphone/Gibson ), Gibson, Fender, .. and was the go-to-guy for several airlines ( who damaged ALL sorts of musical instruments ) for many decades, as well ..... I've done this job ( bridge replacement ) so many times over the last 50+ years that I've literally lost count .... and also took off "perfectly well glued" bridges on LOTS of Martins whose bridges were WAAAAY out of tune ( with not enough room to move the saddle slot rearwards in order to correct the woefully wrong harmonics - which many Martins have :O :( ... ) ..... I usually not only reposition the saddle, but, I often put in a wider saddle, which then lets me create a custom "harmonically correct saddle" for every string - not just the two E's ..... I'm endlessly AMAZED at the volume of Martins ( in particular ) who's bridges have been placed in the WRONG PLACE - from the factory :O :O :O ...... and I've even come across a few big name brand guitars with the nut-to-first-fret in the wrong place as well :O and THAT throws ALL the intonation OUT !!! .... Loved the clip ! :)
"You can't do better than perfect, so we'll call this good enough"
Great😄
I use to tell my band mates that i could change a busted string in under a minute, well that just might be true now after watching you do it. Thanks for the great video. Subscribed.
He's an amazing artist/technician. A truly remarkable man. His forethought, patience and execution are true gifts. Nice goin Jerry!
He tried to remove the bridge with a pair of wire clippers. duh
Lol cries all the way to the bank
Always fun to do a little cloud surfing. Great job Ron and Janis. You and I have birthdays coming up soon. 8th and 10th.
Beautiful work as always Jerry, my poor old Martin sure could use that experience and expertise, just have to figure out how to get myself out West!! Enjoy your time off, see you soon.
Great channel. Appreciate your attention to detail and sharing the process with us. Talented craftsman and gentlemen for helping out your friend. Thank you👍👍👍
I’m a luthier in Maryland. I’ve encountered very similar situations, and have learned that Martin will hand out their “Authorized” designations to any schmoe that comes along. And the “Martin Authorized” shops in this area are absolute hacks. I’ve re-repaired so many “authorized” repairs, I’ve completely lost track. HACKS.
that explains alot, thank you.
The fact that so many need repaired in the first place tells you all you need to know about manufacturer. I would never own one.
It's a real joy to watch a real professional upon whom I give the title "artist"....a true artist. Work was well explained as well. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I'll never be a luthier nor will I do more than change strings but I still very much appreciate your talent.
Excellent work Jerry. Your skills and techniques will be in use probably years after you're gone. You are the best because of your attention to detail. This separates the men from the boys. I see you are trying to slowdown and enjoy a retirement as allowed and well deserved. Thanks for all the years of detailed explanation. Skills beyond reproach. Best wishes from Idaho.
Got to admit the pucker factor was pretty high on that cutting the finish around the bridge trick! Got to be a real satisfying evening after make this instrument sound and look wonderful again.
As a non- guitar playing person I enjoy your channel because you explain why you do the different things when repairing a guitar. Keep the great videos coming.
Love that you speed up the video, only talks when explanation is needed, many good short cuts to get results!
Wow! Great job Jerry!Love watching a real artisan at work!!
Hyde glue for ALL repair work...a retired trained luthier who takes pleasure in watching folks do what I did for 30 yrs...and am both entertained and in shock..you do a good job..I have done that bridge removal many times..and fixed many turnaways from fraudsters with no pedigree or training..from ukelele to geetars and violins and violas and cellos and double basses etc..repair and restoration..award winner for a violin I made in 1988...and travelled the world as a luthier teacher and performer..now I play for seniors..in siberia alberta kanada..
Are there downsides to using "liquid hide glue" ?
@@jonandersonmd7994 not in authentic wood repair...because of it's efficacy and age resistance..proven for centuries..the techno chemicals destroy natural elements..God hates anti hyde glue flateartherz..
@@jonandersonmd7994Not that I know of. I was a piano rebuilder for nearly 20 years. We used hot hide glue for most everything except re-gluing ribs to the soundboard or shimming the soundboard. Liquid hide glue seemed to work as well as hot hide glue but it takes a lot longer to cure.
A really skilled repairman makes it all look so easy - & enjoyable!
Jerry, it's a joy to watch a real craftsman at work. Thanks for a great video!
Watching your videos is therapeutic, a master in his craft . Awesome work Jerry. Greetings from Allentown Pennsylvania.
A very interesting and rewarding trade you have mastered. I'm a guitar player but love seeing the build of hand made guitars, troubleshooting and approaches to doing the repair. This was a great learning hour and I also learned a easier way to restring. Thank you!
Love your video's. Martin returned my 1970 D28 to me after a belly under the bridge repair saying "You must humidify" which I have done fairly religiously to an old Washburn and a new Froggy as well. But now my heads spinning. Your 6% moisture theory makes perfect sense. This really needs discussion somewhere. Must be thousands of people all highly humidifying when it's unnecessary and maybe even detrimental. Want to share this info with other "experts" and see what they think. Should be interesting! Thankyou for sharing your knowledge.
Amazing,this guitar is better now after repair, than it was new made!
I don't know boo about guitars, but watching a true craftsman overhaul this instrument is very satisfying.
Thank you for showing this excellent nowhow. I just love experience and real craftmanship. I am not in guitar business or anything but I just love this. My dad played jazz bass from the -50´s here in Sweden until a year ago. He also played with Ella Fitzgerald when she visited here. That was of topic but I just love great work. Tank you for exist.
I’m following many luthiers on UA-cam, none of them use your method of sanding the frets. Remarkable, because your theory makes sense, it seems more effective and efficient to me.
I love your attention to detail when making and fitting the saddle. Bravo on the entire repair!
I have to tell you, I almost cringed when I first started watching you remove the saddle on the Martin HD 28, but after just a couple minutes, I realized how delicately and precise your movements were. Obviously you just instinctively let your many years of repair experience show your exacting movements. You know your way around a guitar much like a chef knows his or her way around a kitchen but with 1000’s of a inch precision. I had to watch the entire video even though I am sure I will never attempt this on any of my 3 Martins. My favorite is my Martin HD 28 LSV ( large sound hole) . I love to see real craftsmanship. I am a 77 yr old …. mostly just guitar and fiddle holder. I now know how this should be done. Thanks.
Great video. I picked up some important knowledge from you, thanks. You’ve inspired me to start a new (part time) career as a luthier in a local music store, fixing bowed instruments.
Great job sir. I believe you about the humidity from your arm.
ONE OF THE ABSOLUTE FINEST LUTHIERS A REAL PRIVILEGE AND TO WATCH YOU WORK AND learn from your great years of experience and your hands perform miracles very gifted Rosa string works
It's such a pleasure watching you fix a stringed instrument. You are a true craftsman Jerry. Been watching you for a couple of years now and everytime I watched you fix a guitar or a mandolin, you have nailed it perfectly. It seems like you haven't really retired from it yet, even though I think I remember you saying you were gonna retire. You're son looks like he is going to be a good craftsman too. I have a 1971 Epiphone 12 string a friend of mine gave me about 35 yrs ago that his mother put in the attic next to a radiator for a yr and the pull of the strings with the hot and cold temps folded it and broke the neck block in two and folded the top so the laminated pieces of the top seperated. Really don't know what to do with it but it still sits in the closet. Are you interested? Haha. Maybe you got a video for something like that in your collection. Anyhow love your work.
For the record I have not retired I am just on a hiatus for a few months working on farm projects
@@RosaStringWorks Well I am glad to hear you are not retired, but try not to work too hard on your hiatus. Find time to relax and enjoy a beer or cocktail. I am going to make a video of my broken 12 string but it might not be worth paying the price to repair it, which would probably be more than what the guitar is worth. Enjoy your hiatus buddy.
I have a 12 string that did the same thing, the top has wrinkled at the base of the neck. Of course the neck has lifted to where I quit using it. Good luck.
Great to see a real craftsman. I can't get over how much your voice sounds like the character Brooks from The Shawshank Redemption.
Muy buen trabajo, y con herramientas hechas a mano, lo cual tiene aún más mérito. Enhorabuena y muchas gracias por compartir su pasión por la guitarra
I live in New England, and I've never humidified any of my guitars, I do however ALWAYS store them in their hard cases. I have friends who hang their guitars on the wall, and almost all of them have had cracks or warping due to hanging them on the wall, as our humidity here runs from as low as 40% to as high as 100% on any given day. That can literally change from one extreme to the other in less than 24 hours. I have never had a guitar crack or warp keeping them in the case when not in use. I have a Washburn Woodstock acoustic, a Godin La Patrie Concert QT parlor Classical, an Epiphone Broadway jazz box, and a Fender Telecaster Special. All of them are in pristine condition with very little wear due to always being stored in their cases. The only dings and dents came from me being the gorilla that I am, and turning and whacking them on a mic stand or cymbal stand, etc... LOL. But never any cracks or warps due to humidity. Just my 2 Cents. I will agree with Jerry, and his 40 plus years experience. Unless you live in Canada or the South-western desert, you probably won't have to humidify your guitars.