I built a perfect home film scanner
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- IG - / jessesenko
Here's the 3d Printer file for the film holder. I just printed the part i needed - www.thingivers...
This is the lens I ended up getting for my scanner - geni.us/mZwa
And I put it on this - geni.us/21qPkB
You could use this as a backlight - geni.us/EBsY5
This is the ball head I have EVERYWHERE - geni.us/spcbfEV
A really helpful mounting arm - geni.us/RBnCRO
Mounting plate for magic arms - geni.us/Y4z7Es
This is what I shoot most of my channel video on - geni.us/KU0vT
With this lens - geni.us/qz6LR
And this filter - geni.us/43jo3SO
You don't need an expensive mic - geni.us/FjFYQ
And this is my fav cheap micro tripod - geni.us/nW71M
This the best light for a talking head - we call it SpongeBob - geni.us/940csq
BUT this with a softbox might be all you need to save some $$ - geni.us/hjUI1JJ
This is my new favourite hard light for my tabletop setup - geni.us/ooMgi
I love this rolling stand for shooting around my studio - geni.us/NSQQQL
Screw this on a plywood scrap to hold your light on the floor or a tabletop - geni.us/qup5VRP
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
My favourite source for music - bit.ly/2XHUo2O
Let me know if/how you scan!
VIEWER FEEDBACK: use a mirror on the table to make sure that your camera is pointing straight down
Use the enlarger film holder rather than making one! 🤦♂️
Mirror trick: 🤯. I love this community!
It depends on how much quality you want. I use a slide holder that attaches to the end of a macro lens. the connection between the holder and filter thread is rigid so once I have focus, everything is good. keep the emulsion side away from the lens for consistent focusing. keep your light source as far away from the film as possible to make it even across the image. Make sure your film is clean. Otherwise you will spend all your time cloning dust of your digitzed image and no, the dust and scratches filter will not remove all the dust.
Quick tip for levelling the camera. Put a mirror on the base and adjust the camera until the reflection of the lens is in the middle of the viewfinder. oops, sorry Giovanni - you beat me to it, but good point, this sets the camera regardless of whether the base is level or not.
This is incredible and makes perfect sense!
The DSLR scanning method is fantastic. My setup is not too different from yours (also use an enlarger) but the results blow away the scans from my previous Nikon scanner
Yup, I'm just getting this setup going, but the scans are so much better than anything i've tried since i paid a bunch of money to scan some film on an Imacon back in the early 2000s.
We need more content like this, it’s about way of thinking and inspiration first of all. Never shot film till 2023 and already have few cameras from 60-90s and developed around 10 bnw rolls
Ideas first always! You've shot more film than me this year! I've got a new camera i need to replace the seals on and hope to shoot a bunch over the holidays.
I'm in the process of cleaning out old slides. They were taken by a relative of my wife and she inherited them. We went through thousands of slides (there! A tree! Another one! A flower!) and kept a handful for scanning.
The contraption I use involves; a Nikon Coolpix P7700, inherited from the same person who took the slides, a medical daylight LED panel as a backlight, cut out cardboard to keep out stray light, a mini tripod that allows to point the camera straight down and another cardboard contraption to lift the backlight plus slide to the range of the camera's makro setting. Voila!
This is good enough for me, even though the scans get blurry on th edges (a combination of the lenses limits and the slides not being completely plane in their frames).
Thanks for showing your process!
Thanks for sharing. You used the word “contraption” a few times so it sounds like my kind of setup!
The single best change I made to my copy stand + DSLR scanning setup was shooting tethered in lightroom. Being able to nail macro focus using my monitor instead of my camera's live display was a huge revelation and helped massively with setup.
I also use an enlarging lens and switching from extension tubes to a macro rail was another huge help.
Tethering is great. I have a bunch of slides to do so will probably tether for that.
one of the best videos i have ever seen on youtube, wow!!!!
After I watched your video I realized I have a lot of the equipment you described and I have tried this belore and the results were ok, but the fact of being able to 3d print a negative holder is a game changer... I have some color photos of my wedding back in1983 that are looking (are) faded. I did scan them but never really was happy with the look I'm going to try and find those negatives and use your method to get them back into their original look.
I found that the lens is the important part of the chain. If you don’t have a good macro, the scans will be soft.
@@jessesenko I do have a canon macro so hopefully that will work. Gotta find the negatives first 😀😀
Oh man, that enlarger made my dive into my local marketplace website and there's a couple of them for sale for next to nothing. Going to pick one up soon!
Great video! Glad I discovered your channel - something different in photography . Thank you! 🇨🇦
Glad you’re here!
I made a film holder from bits of 2mm black plastic card which works OK. Getting hold of a trashed enlarger would be brilliant.
Excellent !!!
great video. Great tips. Loads of humour.
i have part from, fuji frontier ;/ it sucks a lot. Looks like You have good scaner ;3
It seems you arrived at the same solution that I did. I had a Durst M605 enlarger back in the 70s before I upgraded to an Omega 4x5 enlarger, and remembered using it as a copy stand. I found a little 35 mm version on eBay for less than $50, bought an Essential film holder system and made a little box out of 1/2 Gator foam to hold my video light and holder. (Sure beat using my old color head upside down and Omega D series neg carriers) I tether my Nikon D5500 APS-C camera with a 30mm macro to Lightroom on my iMac now and couldn’t be more pleased. I have been using this for a few years now to digitize my 40+ plus year library as well as my father’s and grandfather’s film. I need to sell my film scanners because I don’t think I will ever use them again. Except maybe for 4x5, but I recently tried shooting sections of a transparency and stitching them together and had pretty good luck.
Thanks for sharing, Curtis. So were you using the head upside-down and shooting into it to scan? Just checked out the essential film holder and it looks like a really great and affordable option. Also stitching your 4x5 seems like a good option and gives you a ton of detail, which is the whole spirit of 4x5. That’s a project I want to do down the road… build my own. Biggest format I’ve shot is just a borrowed 6x7 medium format. Do you find you get “lensing” with your 30mm or do you just flatten it in Lightroom? This 100mm is probably going to be my next lens purchase.
thoughts on the actual rig linked with the film holder? also did you iron your film holder and sand it or using it as is?
I didn’t iron or sand my film holder 3D print. You’re implying to avoid scratches, right? Sanding would probably be a good idea!
My new favorite channel
Thanks a lot!
If only your daughter in the photo were taking a photo of a print. With a photo of your daughter on that print.
*insert tim and eric mind blown gif*
Valoi Easy35 = ultimate option, cause it attaches to the lens = perfectly parallel sensor every time.
Yeah I get pushed ads for this all the time. Just wanted to see what I could do with what I have. And I’m finding that getting it parallel is not difficult and can scale up to 120 film easily.
@@jessesenko Oh, I know. I have used camera conversion since before it was a thing. I measure my processing time in minutes and futzing with setting up anything takes time. I aim to scan my 35mm film in 5 minutes or less per-roll. I have limited workspace, and a resolution of 50+mp. Any misalignment in the sensor shows up. My 35mm rolls go Jobo -> drying -> tethered camera+Easy35 -> NAS -> Filmlabapp Desktop v3 tif -> DxO tweaks. I can do 6+ rolls per hour of 35mm, almost no dust thanks to the static brush on the Valoi. I still use an old copy stand and EFHv3 for 120, which is slower and eats desk space. I hope sometime soon for an "Easy120" or knock-off to appear so I can permanently decommission the copy stand.
Also worth noting - I use the Easy35 in my "Jobo closet" in the basement with an old laptop, right where the film dries. For the copy stand I have to transport the film two floors up to my office. No matter how careful, that results in more dust.
At any rate, you've certainly got a solid setup there. I wasn't meaning to sound like an advertisement🤣 I got my copy stand on clearance for $80, used 3D printed film holders, and my existing el-cheapo light table. That setup still performed better conversions than any lab.
Now I'm just super excited with the continuing evolution. Eliminating the Adobe tax, swapping in new components, etc. these last few years... it's almost to the point where I don't mind the conversion work at all.
your a good man Charlie Brown ...
...the few libraries we have here certainly do not do 3D-printing, so I'm off to make a son. A bit long-term, I know, but who's counting, eh?
lol. Great workaround
My parents made a big negative 38 years ago.
*drum rimshot sound effect*
Heyooooo!
The camera alignment using the ball head should be done with a mirror, by focusing on the lens and centering it on the frame trough the reflection. That being because it will guarantee that it is co-planar with the scanning surface, what is more important than having it leveled.
🤯 Amazing! Makes perfect sense! I've never heard of this. Definitely going to update my method.
The humor, the down to earth vibe and, why not, also the useful content! Sub'd; keep it up!
Dude. Love your story telling. So captivating. 👌🏾
I don’t shoot film, nor do I think I ever will, however, I am filled with inspiration after watching this. Your creativity and unique approach to work makes me want to make things.
Thanks! How bout you shoot a roll of film and I write a song?
You DDDD DON'T shoot film. Horror! (LOL) I use both and a phone camera. The diference between film and digital is like the difference between CD and Vynal. The real beauty of film is that it can be expensive, which makes one think before one opens a firing salvo.
Every once I like to record to tape and reel 2 reel every once in a while. I have to agree, I am almost always more thoughtful when doing that vs going directly to my hard drive on the computer!@@georgesmith4509
".....and my God, you'd better have a library card....." Priceless......what a brilliant, inspirational video.
Your delivery and humor is legendary. And yes you probably have my old black and white film enlarger. I got my black and white film enlarger thinking I would make a dark room in my basement someday. LOL well, that never happen. So I sold it on ebay. I loved making my own black and white prints in high school in the 80s.
Your delivery and humor is extremely perfect. Great stuff 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Andy! Means a lot!
My sentiments exactly !! Subbd for the great humour and great vdo'graphy !!
forget the 3d printed holder - I used my old negative carrier from my enlarger, made a mask which covered most of the light panel, and just dropped that carrier onto the surface.
Nice! Yeah, you can tell i haven't printed in a while and totally missed that connection, lol
Ah hahaha. The whole confusing two parts of my past bit was hilarious. Not going to shoot film again anytime soon but have rolls and rolls of 120 negatives and 35mm slides that probably should be digitized before I get too much older. Thanks for the laughs and the video. Subscribed.
I've been doing that for the last month or so. Many great memories. I use my R8 Canon with EF50 macro lens and cheap kodak light box with some old Epson scanner film holders which work great. Do everything from 110 to 35mm to 120 and 4x5.
The string/nut idea isn't silly, it's basically just a plumb bob.
Thank you for showing that you DO NOT NEED $900 to scan film with a digital camera. Even everything considered - R&D, manufacturing, administration and distribution, material cost, etc. - I personally still think that those heavily advertised scanning stands by certain brands are _grossly_ overpriced.
Finally delving into the world of film and came across your channel! I appreciate your humor and knowledge, instant sub! I was ROLLING when you pulled out the crop and red light!🤣🤣🤣🤣
I did something a bit similar a few years ago, and used a cable release so that I didn't have to touch the camera. I eventually made it into a foot pedal, that helped with the workflow. Mind you, this was scanning I think over 1k (or was it 3k?) photos this way.
Very cool. I have an old enlarger gathering dust, a son with a 3D printer, and I have a bunch of negatives that need to be scanned. Happy days ahead.
You forgot the most important thing: How to focus properly on a negative??
I usually use the zoom focus assist thing but for this test, autofocus + 2 sec timer worked best!
Is anyone gonna talk about the fact that he has a riding crop? No. Okay. I guess it's just me.
My boyfriend made something VERY similar but to capture slides. Made his own 3D parts to hold the slides in place, and to photograph both the slide frames (where people write shit on it--the date/year, the location, the name of the person), then only capture the actual image.
Word is, he likes to keep people awkwardly guessing!
I love the idea of capturing the whole slide. Requires two lights I guess. Second one to light the slide mount. A friend is working on a doc and asked to borrow this for slides. So will 3D print a holder for that soon!
@@jessesenko Cool! Would love to see it when you're done. And yes, my b/f has two lights, uses his Canon, and has a fast-loading sliide carousel. I showed him your video and he's like "See! I'm not the only geek with classic film enlargers laying around!"
What a hoot! Dude - your timing for this rig is perfect for me. And that sly, dry humour… priceless!
LMAO! Dude, this is an awesome video. Im so glad I found yore channel. I commented at the start of this video, but after watching the entire video, I must say, Perforated feces dude!
You are brilliant brother. Of course I subscribed and ring your little bell thingy. I cant wait to check out your other videos. You do have other videos, right? I'm gonna find my liberry card and get that frame holder printed. I would like to find a 120 film holder as well, but hey, one thing at a time. Thanks again Jessie, this has been such a great find for me! I know it's library, I was attempting humor. I'll see you in the next one!
Thank you sir! and i hope the 'perforated feces' is a figure of speech and not something you should see a doctor about!
I never did any darkroom work outside of middle school Camera Club, but I did have a good-sized microfiche reader for a while, bought very cheap, shortly before digitizing and scanning took over. I never did anything with it, unfortunately, and probably donated it to a thrift store years later.
More cool might have been an opaque projector.
You shoot in film, develop the film, scan the film, manipulate the file with lightroom, then look at the picture with your phone. Ah? If you cant live without digital files, then why bother?
I use flash to light from below. Shot Thu a small bank..allows me to adjust the light out put and no movement blur
The content is great but man, i really get your sense of humor. Subscribed for that alone. Photography content is a bonus!!
You had me smiling several times during this video. Good stuff! 😁
haha-loved it!
I still have my Super chromemga C760. I miss the days of 100' of Tri-x or TMax for $20-$30.00 though. Also, my developer of choice can no longer be found. Agfa Diafine and Acufine.
🤣 "I make myself cry…I inspire myself so much sometimes…" 🤣 …You're a comedy genius, as well as a photographic one!…Fantastic video.
OK, now I have watched it and have gotten a lot of 💡. It is great you don’t present a “complete solution” like using these items ($$$$$$) to get the best result, but showing how to do it the DIY-style.
The recipe is KISS - Keep It Simple Smart***. (Or … why making something simple, cheep and good when you can actually make it complicated, expensive and bad? 😏).
AAAAYYYYOOOOOOO!!!!!!! 😭😭😭😭❤
I have the same durst enlarger with color head ...very nice enlarger. Never much liked glass negative carrier because they caused Newton's rings. You can use the enlarger lighthouse to backlight and hold your film and set it on the base. With a dichroic head you can color balance the light too.
i have a plustek opticfilm 7200 and is quite capable and cost like 300 bucks, maybe a better one like de 7400 with iSRD but for the price
Easier way of making sure your camera is level with the film plane is to use a mirror. Just place a mirror on the plane and then aim at the center of the reflection. That takes into account any deviation of the plane too so its not reliant just on gravity.
A few people have said that and today is that day i picked up a completely fundamental thing that i've never heard of. A good day! Thanks for sharing.
should note with the darkroom scenes that the red safety light is only good for black and white work, please dont use a safety light for colour related prints and development
Yep, I must’ve sold you my Beseler 23c-II back in the ‘90s. Cuz I don’t have it any more.
👍👍👍👍👍 Good Info Jesse.... I do have a Nikon FG from 1982 full operational and I am scanning all my B&W negatives into digital using my Nikon D750 full frame, and what a JOY!!!! Now I need to start developing my negatives on my own.... And I also have my dad's Old Yashica TLR all manual 6x6 medium format that I am planning to use too... So, Love your video and the way you developed to scan the negatives... In my case I bought the Nikon ES-2 digitizer.... I HAVE BBEN NIKON since the late 70's....
Thanks, Walter! I love my yashica tlr
Oh yeah, thanks for reminding me. Can I get my film enlarger back? Thanks.
Mainly I will respond that I didn't feel like you were trying to sell me something. Which many promoters of attachments seem to do, oh this is the best way to,,,, !
I will add though that I started copying prints this way, but soon it became just too complex and time consuming. I went to dedicated scanners, the workflow and quality was much easier for me. Not everyones thing I agree.
The workflow is tough to get down. I'm just getting to a good place with processing my negatives. But tough to have to become an archivist throughout the process. I'll think of something to sell you from my channel one day! Thanks for watching, Paul.
The background music makes it hard to follow your content 😕
Audio is hard!
@@jessesenko I would like a version without music.
I'm very interessted in how you build your scanner, but I can not concentrate on your speech while music is playing at the same time. Its a disability of me :-(
I can't upload a different version, but I've cleaned up the subtitles if that'll help you.@@schulz.alexander
cool project!!! awful delivery this guy is boring.
There is a better film holder wich also works for 120 its called rodsgear :)
Hey Jesse! Can i please have my enlarger back? Ive been looking for ut for years.
that music in the background why???
You don't need to buy or print a film holder, you have one inside a film enlarger
Wow, so great, thanks for sharing. You're so talented.
Just use negative carriers from the enlarger
Hey...I think you might have my enlarger? I'd really like that back. Loved this ...youre awesome!
Thanks!
Gott my mamiya c3 + 105mm lens last week. fomapan film arrives tomorrow. picked up an minty (35mm) enlarger + bottles, masking frame, red light etc. for.... £20 - vertical clamp grip for attaching my D5200 arrives tomorrow (£5.60) - all i need is the LED white light bits and some rodinal/fixer.
Oh amazing, very fun. Bon voyage!
Hi Jesse aka future me.
First of all, Thank you.
Retro past you (me) could tell you more of where those flashbacks of the red light districts were coming from. was future me a sailor too?
I still have my durst 301 but in the past you were terrible with making things out of wood, cardboard and masking tape were your friends.
I am delighted to see that now things can be made of wood without splinters in fingers, also future me has acquired patience in order to build things correctly and in great detail.
Well, I'm cleaning up an old family house and finding box after box of family negatives dating back to the 30's (maybe older) in formats up to what I recall was 620 or abut 3x3 inch or so. and hoping to salvage as many as I can. anyone have thoughts cleaning? I'm thinking some sort of rewash with distilled water and/or some sort of surfactant to reduce water spotting.
Some of these were not stored in the best of conditions,
shaking out the ones mixed with rat turds and tossing the ones ruined by rat urine type of not stored very well.
Lol... great comment and best of luck on the negative capturing. I've never had to clean negs, but distilled water sounds like a good place to start. I'm sure there are a lot of great restoration resources online.
Excellent. Just found your channel, so I’m a little late to this comment thread. Your Durst enlarger was made to convert to a copy stand, but not all enlargers will do this easily. I own a copy stand and intend to do what you’re doing with that. Also, a good light source, negative carriers, and multiple macro lenses, so I’m all set.
Just two days ago, I had a conversation with a guy who owns a local photo lab (yes, they still exist) and he was telling me that I could not do this successfully. I figured he was partially full of it and just wanting me to pay him to scan my negatives. I have thousands! (Been doing this since the 1960s).
Cheers!
😃
I had a camera store guy try to talk me out of a camera I was looking for and told me what was “better” Just picked what I was looking for up :)
I shoot MF and LF and have hired a Flextight X5 in the past. For $60/hr I could scan something like 12 LF at 4000 lpi and end up with enormous files which were satisfyingly large, but of limited practical value beyond meeting my purist orientations. I have an old V700 but will start experimenting with shooting my negs directly. Maybe they'll be good enough for my purposes, if not falling a little short of my (silly) desires to go max res! Cheers and thanks from Sydney - Dave
I used to do scans on the same thing in Toronto around 15 years ago. Rented an imacon workstation at Toronto Image Works. I have to do some more testing, but this setup (mainly due to the lens’s sharpness) is the closest to those imacon scans at home. And I’d love to learn how to operate a large format cam!
Well, that was an absolute waste of time!!!
Quick check…. Nope. My enlarger is still in the garage.
Brilliant and hilarious! Loving yer work, Jesse. I’ve been using a V600 flatbed and never liked it. I do have a spare enlarger and will give this a go. But first I’m getting a library card.
lol. Library card shaming seems to be working :) I borrowed a V600 for a bit and felt it was pretty soft. This method is so much sharper if you have a macro lens. Also lots of comments about using the neg carrier from the enlarger instead of 3D printing one. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Amazing!
Loved so much in this and made me laugh out loud! the Red Light District references and then the riding crop! LMAO!
Now I need to go get my enlarger out of storage and see if it will work.
I've been tempted to salvage the lens from it and adapt it to be used as a camera lens, some of those lenses are actually really good and make crazy images. Use it all with no waste!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great information nicely done and super entertaining!
OMG…I had that Durst! Warmed my heart to see it again. Weird to hear you describe the pos/neg process. I’m like who doesn’t know all this? Then I realize how old I am. :(
lol. Yes. A good chance anyone under 35 never touched film!
You ONLY have 2 enlargers ? My 3 is the bare minimum 😆. Junk just keeps piling up 😵💫.
I definitely need a backup backup
You didn’t need any glas or so to flatten the negatives, did you? It’s a edge to edge sharpness achieved by depth of field, isn’t it? That’s the problem with some of the retail scanners. Either they have nothing to flatten the negatives, normally always convex towards the glossy side, that will end up in blurry scans because the scanner lens is too close for a sufficient depth of field or they have a glas in the negative holder flatten the negative but because thar glas is cheap and uncoated, you get ugly Newton rings. No matter if the retail thing is 200 or 2000 bucks.
This film holder helps flatten them. But for this test I used older negatives that flattened naturally in storage. I’ve noticed newton rings in the past but found dust a bigger issue with four extra surfaces to keep clean. I think the soft edges on my old scans were optics with the extension tubes but curved negs could have been a factor!
A much easier way to copy either film or digital without all the extra bits and pieces is to use the enlarger head reversed on the baseboard as the light box, I have a Durst copy arm that fits to the enlarger column which takes a camera body and keeps the camera parallel to the baseboard. The negative carrier holds the film flat. Been copying this way since the swinging sixties
I was trying to reinvent the wheel over here! I’ve been told this by a few folks but don’t mind this setup for all kinds of scanning. I am however jealous of your experience with this machine! I’m planning a craft room as a part of a basement reno that’s lightproof as well to try printing again.
Words matter? I'd say you don't "scan" when you take a still image with a camera with a Bayer or Trans sensor (even though at a deep level there's scanning going on in these cameras, of the sensor).
The "inherent problem" is that this produces a raw file that needs raw processing (conversion) - a raw file with monochrome (mono=single, chrome=colour) data elements only.
A scanner that does a line by line scan of your negative or positive should be able to take the colour uncertainty completely out. This compares to some cameras being able to shift the sensor by 1 and 2 photosites in X and Y axes and in this way shoot R, G, and B, EValues that can be stacked into RGB without wild-assed guessing.
I "reproduce" my negatives, or prints, or positive slides, with a mirrorless camera that can shift the sensor and solves the colour-uncertainy issue inherent to Bayer.
For framed slides and negatives, I use an after-market camera-brand tube that mounts on the lens and with my macro lens I can get to 1:1 reproduction scale. No worries about being plumb/level/parallel. That tube/mount, I have to add, is not expensive, but with my 105mm that is a lot better than the simple 60mm macro lens, the tube was too short for 1:1. So I bought a bunch of the cheapest aluminium UV filters in the proper thread plus two with a brass rim. Broke the glass out of all of them and terminated the AL tube with a brass ring on either end - (adding about US $60).
Thanks for the reply, and some of it is a bit over my head... I feel like a part of the point you're making is that detail needs to be resolved somehow on a sensor and if each step is an approximation of what it's seeing you're losing information. What I do know is that the reproduction, I guess is what you call it, from this method is better than any scanner I've used outside of an Imacon or Drum scanner. The process matters, but really, if the end result is comparable to a method it'd have to drive 4 hours to rent a a scanning workstation, I'll take this one.. The one upside to an oversize rig like this is that I've been able to use it for photographing things beyond scanning 35mm. Thanks for your comment! I love hearing from people with a lot more experience than me.
@@jessesenko - and thank you. I explain the Bayer paradigm that gives us colour photos with a colour-blind sensor by filtering each photosite down to one colour. Then in software the missing colour from each photosite must be guessed.
Some cameras in that Bayer paradigm, like the one I use, can shift the sensor over 1 or 2 photosite distances and consequently - in more than one shot register R, G, and B, at each and every [x,y] coordinate.
Stacking these images should combine the monochromatic (mono=one, chromatic colours) data-elements of the raw file into RGB pixels.
A scanner with photosites in a line should be able to do the same line by line. And a ,multipass scan should remove residual colour uncertainty or increase dynamic range.
How good the result from a scanner is depends on the software you use with it, the number of passes, the file format, etc.
In theory, a 16 bits deep TIFF - assuming the scanner and software can generate that, should be better than a raw file.
If you scan real medium format or large format then serious drum scanners are the best you can get - these are at a professional level and rely on software that is at a higher level too.
I had a go using my camera to scan in negatives a few years ago. Too much like hard work and didn’t work well with transparencies. It was easier to just use my Epson V500 scanner
Same here until I built this stand. It makes it much more doable. Happy you’ve found a method that’s best for you!
OK... I need to know what clear finish you used on the wood. I love that it didn't change the natural color of the wood at all. I see that it is Behr brand. But which of their many finishes is it?
Thanks.
Hey Grant! I used regular water-based urethane. Doesn’t darken the wood. Probably satin finish. I’ve got a can of Behr these days but prob just because it was the cheapest!
I just use my slide copying adapter. Approximately £25. The light source is important.
Googling now. Looks pretty handy! I’ll 3d print something for slides next
I have been having trouble scanning like this I have the setup but raising the negative is a good idea maybe that will help me with the colors and use my negative carrier to hold them when scanning thanks for the great video!
Thanks for watching, Julia! Diffusion and distance are super helpful to get good, even scans
Just use bubble level on hot shoe.
My personal tip, having made my own 120 film "scanner": use a real macro lens. I used to use a Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens with extension tubes. Then, I got a Tamron 90mm macro lens. The sharpness difference was staggering! I thought the 50 with extension tubes was fine, but it was not even close to the results I get from the Tamron. Also, that light you used is the one I got for my medium format scanner - the light isn't even enough across the entire panel. Even with multiple layers of diffusion, it's just not up to the task.
Yes. Agree on all points. The 100 mm canon macro was such a vast improvement over anything with tubes, and yes I don’t love that led’s diffusion as is. Last time I scanned 120 I had to use a full size panel led to get an even spread (my jenga setup in the vid). I’ll keep exploring!
I tried the EF50 1.8 at first too and with extension tubes. Was very sharp in center but corners were soft with medium format. Got the EF50 F2.5 macro and it's sharp across corners. Only use extension tube when doing 35mm. For medium format no extension tubes.
Good times. I have a device that turns my Dremel into a drill press that could probably help me make the same type of scanner. I might have to do something like this some time. I have it in my head to one day make a 35mm stop motion short with a film camera.
Do it! The 100mm macro lens is pretty key. Been borrowing a friends and going to grab it now
Have you tried just an old slides duplicator lens?
something like Ohnar zoom slide duplicator
I haven't! Hadn't heard of it either. I just built this setup with stuff I had around, but I'll look into this one.
I hear you loud and clear!
It's mine...
Thanks for the video
I just managed to shot one roll of film with my grandmother old Yashica 127 . I am not going to pay 22 euros to get the film scanned with the sprockets. Thank you for the inspiration and the guidelines!
Amazing and entertaining content!
Awesome! I have an old Yashica TLR as well and I love it.
Have you had any prior experience scanning 35mm film with sprockets and edges?
@@jessesenko
The key is to adjust the level of the camera and the film holder. I also DIYed my own replica stand, using industrial screw slides. This is very convenient when switching heights.😜
Googling them now!
Cool! Like the z axis screw on my cnc
😂😂😂 oh god I am happy I came across your video
The crop made me snork out loud!
I love taking a joke one extra step too far!
Love it. Strong Dadvibes. Thank you!
lol. I'll take that as a compliment. Maybe working from home for 10 years is starting to show!
You could also have used the enlarger head as a light source and the film carrier by turning it upside down and using it as your objective on the base under your camera rig. In fact the earlier dursts had a reversable condenser set that you could copy with but using the lamphousing and the condensers will give you an evenly distributed light source which if you like you could add further diffusion to if you like. I have an opemus enlarger which I am desperately waiting to be shipped from my previous address to create a similar scan system to yours and it has two foam boxes that can provide illumination for both 35 and 120 and relative film carriers. It was originally for colour. Great video, thank you.
Thanks Leslie! I've heard other comments about this method. I got into photography right at the tail end of the film era, so didn't learn the ins-and-outs of these machines, so really great to learn. I wonder if the head would overheat the film with the light at the bottom, or was it designed this way?
@@jessesenko Good point Jesse, it would only be workable with reflex enlargers like the one you took the mounting stand from or similar heads that lamp is at the back of. Older enlargers had the bulb above the film and would be too cumbersome to turn upside down and may as you say create a heat problem. Putting a space between the upside down head and the worktop would provide room for the bulb to vent.
As an afterthought you would have to also have to remove the lens holder and bellows to enable access to your scan area.
Or just use the enlargers film carriers over your own lightsource if you want to stay more compact.
“Sell my body” sent coffee out my nose
I kick myself in the Arse when I moved to the EU I left my enlarger behind along with many other items.
The "red light" was only useful for black and white photography. It would easily fog color print paper. It would also ruin color film that was undeveloped. Anyone with a few months practice can load color film onto the developer reel and place it in the tank just by feel in TOTAL darkness.
Funny I have negative holders that came with my Canon flat bed scanner. Ready to go….
Do it!
I’ve never printed colour. How would you do it? Total darkness?
There are enlargers in the EU as well. I think Durst came from Austria or Italy.
Why you always lying?
i like that the nut hanging from a screw is just a hommade plumbob
I like that it lands flat! Even if I don’t need it anymore. Comments gave me a better way