You are showing things I've been trying to convince my cutting buddy. He's been cutting longer, but I'm a quick learner. Thanks for this. I'm going to MAKE him watch this so he'll se I'm (we're) right.
Very Nice, i did the same Math years ago changing 7pin 325 into 6 pin 3/8 on a smaller Saw for more Performance in bigger wood. 325 has more Cutters on the same chainlength . Germany has almost only full house chains, never seen a half or Fullskipchain in a Shop here. Maybe caused by the smaller Trees we have here. A 24“ Bar ist mostly everything you need here. My Dolmar 143 has a 24“ Bar with fullhouse and an 8 pin Sprocket. Rakers. at 0.8 millimeters. Runs great. I cutted down a Redwoodtree at full Barlength and now i know why i should try to get a Fullskipchain. With Barnose in the wood ist is harder to cut through. Very good Video with a lot of Experience. I will try the less Chaintension! Thanks and Greetings from Germany.
Running an old stretched chain on a new sprocket will screw up the new sprocket and make the chain more likely to jump. Keep new sprockets and chains running together and let them wear together.
I have had a lot of guys give me shit over the years for running my chains and sprockets the way I do. You just proved me right!!! You are the boss man!! Thanks!!
Hi Harvey, I'm a motocross guy and understand everything you said about the sprocket and I also ran a forwarder for about 10 years but I've learned more in the last 30 minutes and actually understand why things do what they do because of your explanation. I don't claim to be a sawman, but I enjoy learning and widening my skillset. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge Harvey.
And just like that I see the light! I trash picked a 40 cc poulan, it was a dull ,dirty mess. Got it squared away and sharpened the chain. Went to pull the chain around the bar and it went “chunk chunk chunk”. I will now go back and look closely at the chain for wear. If it’s like the rest of the saw was it too is probably ridden hard and put away wet. Thank you Sir for sharing all this unwritten knowledge!
Thanks as always for sharing Harvey. If I may add a bit of what I’ve learned over my 60yrs.....I’ve never ran skip chain but I’m going to try it soon. I’ve always felt rakers/depth gauges don’t need to be touched until pretty well 1/2 a new chain teeth have been removed. 25 yrs ago I started using 13/64” files on 3/8” chain vs 7/32” so very much smoother in the cut especially cutting hardwoods. That little tidbit came from the head of Stihl head office tech dept here in Canada whos now passed on, Dave was a genius. 10% smoother and 10% faster cutting. When taking my rakers down my last swat with the flat file I’ll hit the front corner which makes for a nice little ramp coming into the cut vs a blunt edge. Less chance of any chatter or at least that’s only my opinion I never allow my chains to sag, ever. too much of a chance to spit the chain while cutting in horizontal position say while setting our #1 cut for our notch, (sighting line while felling). Proper Tensioning, always always keep bar tip lifted up and tension chain Just Until the links come in contact with bottom of bar. When letting off the throttle, if that chain comes to an abrupt stop, it’s too tight, readjust, excessive friction costs HP and causes heat, heat removes temper from chain and bar.
Squaring off the top of rackets also allows the tooth and racked to clean out more material increasing a cleaner cut, thus less time to complete cut. Been doing this on full comp and skip chains for 30+ years. In big wood and smaller. Only small diameter logs tend to chatter more, but still cutable
You would not believe how many worn out bars and chains people bring in the shop from over tighten.Worn out sprockets from Poulan's to Stihl's don't matter to folk's.You can tell them and the next month or so they will be back for another bar and chain. Good video Ironhorse you broke it down really well for folks to understand.Thumbs up to you buddy !!
Good demo cheers ironhorse. I've been a paid feller for many years, this presentation cemented and made clear lots of murky info I had. Again, cheers you beauty.
Not a logger, Im a wood burner . Great video with tons of info . I use mostly skip tooth with 50 to 60 cc saws. You explained things very well and i agree with you on all . And yes I have stretched me some chain. Thanks Harvey.
Between this video of yours and Billy’s I have a much better idea of what is happening with my chain in the cut. I know running my chain too tight is bad for my saws bearings so I like it a little on the looser side but not too much. Great practical information! Thanks!
You have been changing my world over the past few months brother! You and Buckin' both have. I 'm a new subscriber back about the 2nd week of March when you showed up in my feed. I was just out in the garage with this video going while I was cleaning and going over some of my saws. I had just had the bar off and had put the chain back on and I just checked my chain tension when you mentioned it. I had just thought that the chain didn't feel quite right because I just tossed the chain on. Over the years everyone around me have always shown me to get the chain quite a bit tighter than what it probably should have been. Lucky for me there is barley any time on that chain. Didn't kill the sprocket but it needs a new one after 37 years. It's that saw's birthday today Oct 6, 1983. A Stihl 024 AV. Thanks again!
Thank you for your time on sprocket information , and helping me understand the pros and cons . Telling me of the dangers involved with bore cuts and skip chains , as I understand from you, If I was cutting soft wood with a skip tooth this would give my chain more time to expel chips . Keeping the chain running straight .. By increasing the speed with 8 tooth sprocket on full skip chain ? .I am just a greenhorn when it comes to cutting ,and the information and attention to safety issues are something I really needed to understand ! I also vary the raker depth like you do . I think it gives the chain a hammer drill affect , Runs a little rougher on the bar I think ....I am one guy who asked you to do this video , Posted on your skidder video. SORRY !
Great video as always. It took me a long time, and a lot of sprockets, chains, and bars to figure out to not run them so tight. Running them tight is also hard on the crank and bearings. Keeping them sharp, correct depth height, and correct tension makes your saw work much better and easier, and prolongs the life of your equipment. Here in East Coast of Canada I run all full comp chisel tooth chains, and 7 tooth sprockets. Mostly Stihl brand. I like them the best. Thanks again Harv, great explanation!
Greetings from No. VT - Buckin said you were the master, this video was great and answered so many questions I have had about chains over the years. Thank you.
logged and fell professionally for years. My happy place for set up was, an MS 460, 32" bar, 7 tooth, full skip, rakers filed flat. 3 strokes off rakers off of new factory chain. Then, 2 rakers passes per filing as I ran.... was a timber felling fool!
AWESOME video! I really like the depth gauge method. AND GREAT CHAIN MAINTENANCE PROGRAM, I BELIEVE EVERY WORD, my long bar saw still glides, it all makes perfect sense
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge from experience. Buckin Billy Ray was right when he said that you can't go wrong with The Ironhorse.
You are absolutely right on all points! The only thing I would add is. Out here on the left side of the country where we run long bars. 30" and up. Once you get out past about a 36" bar a 8 tooth sprocket even with full house chain will have an advantage. Because as the bar gets longer it takes more time for the chain to make it around the bar. Running an 8 tooth will bring the speed back up to where it's close to what a 24" bar would be. We have a lot softer wood out here so you can get away with that. Now that's talking on a 80cc saw or above. Also 8 tooth and skip chain work really well on bars that exceed 40" because you maintain good speed and you have enough room between the teeth to not wood up pulling a chain through 40" of wood.
As an equipment owner and operator I agree over tensioning chain or tracks just multiplies the working torque on the track parts or chain and thus stretches it or wears the sprocket, pins, and links faster than it would under proper tension. I am not saying all manufacturer specs are correct for the work your doing however. Example 1: the dozer is used at the city dump all it does is go straight up and down a fairly flat surface and minimal turning pressure to move over a blade width for every 2 pushes. That track can stand to be tighter and not wear as fast. Example 2 dozer pushing trees on rough ground or dozer doing grade work. These need to be in proper tension due to the tension under load on uneven surfaces this gets the most hours out of the pins, links and sprockets. Loose-loose is a no-no for any tracked equipment because the stress involved when the track is thrown and standard practice of operators not using proper methods (cutting corners) to get it back on the machine. Exactly like one of Buckin's recent videos where he used the saw to put the chain back onto the bar without un-tensioning the bar and doing it by hand. Every shortcut has a drawback and when that drawback is 24hours downtime on a machine with a broken grouser and link because 2 operators used a hoe to attempt reinstalling a track only then do you see the reasoning of it being only 1 hour downtime to open the idler ram un-tension the ram reinstall the track then re-tension the ram and get some working hours on the machine versus a huge profit loss (@$200/hr for a dozer) plus 24hours or more downtime. As far as personal preference on saw chains I like about 1/4 to 3/8 inch slack on the bottom unless its new chain I might put a new chain on tight to 1/16in slack. I must be lacking some skills in limbing cause I don't use the tip of the saw like you explained im 1-2 inches back off the center axis of the front sprocket on the bar but I aint a logger either. Thx a lot for the video fella.
That’s about how I check raker height. Basically, I scan down the cutters with my eyes, looking for about a sparkplug gap between the top of the cutter and the raker top. If it does not have this gap I hit the top of the rakers a few strokes. I typically run LGX or RS on my bigger saws.
Great video.!!! When running a circle mill. The balance of the saw is key!!!!!! If your saw isn’t hammered correctly it will Lead inward. I say that to say it also depends on how true your mandrel is. If theses couple things I mentioned are not true , then yes the saw will chase the grain around knots when doing your face cut.
I done the exact same thing when I started out felling for the skyline winch, went hell for leather without much thought going into it, definitely made thing better once I'd had a spell at chokering 😁
I look for a spark plug gap between the top of the cutter and the top of the raker. I typically round off the top of the raker to keep it in line with the leading edge of the raker. This reduces chatter. I run full house chains on 7 pin sprockets on 20 inch bars 3/8, .050 chain. My typical chain is an Oregon LGX or Stihl RS chain. I hand file all chains and I would bet you would find nothing wrong with my chains. I snug my chains up to the bottom of the bar, lift the end of the bar and resnug. That was the way I was taught and it has worked well for me for fifty years.
If I could give this video more than one like I would. I am a Steamfitter/Welder by trade, but I love chainsawing. Learned a lot on your channel, keep it coming. Thanks
Hello Harvey good vedio on the different sprockets and chain's for the saws different people use in the timber industry i just wanted to tell you when I used to tension my chains up i always had a quarter inch of play left in them and I made sure they always was on the guide the right way as well and wasn't locked on it too have a good day now and I'll be waiting on the next video here too thanks
Great video, great information. Learning a ton Ironhorse. Truly appreciate you explaining it all, breaking it down, helps a ton when you are at the salary of the learning curve. Learning the terms, how it works, and how to become better. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Very well done video and well explained! I've played around with skip vs full, prefer full for most cutting - smoother when cleaning out an undercut and nicer for limbing (cutting BC coast softwoods). I like skip for trimming and cleaning up logs at my mill and landing - less sharpening time when cutting on dirty timber. I run a couple of 372s and a 440 with 28'' bars.
Great video harvey, so much detail. Explaning the relationship of chain tension to sprocket life awesome. My frandfather taught me if your chain doesnt shoot down that bar, your foolish. Thankyou.
I’m a one man show an you are right on point with everything 100% only thing I would add is the faster the speed of the chain you will have more heat and your bar will expand and your chain gets tighter
Great Video Ironhorse.! I learned a lot from this video. Thanks for going a little further with the rakers and bore cutting. I run full skip and do bore cutting and already figured out the best way to start the cut. Though doing blowdowns, it can be hard to utilize the safe zone to get started sometimes. I've been contemplating on going from a 7 to 8 tooth sprocket on my Mac 7-10. I know that increasing teeth increases speed, but reduces torque. So a 7 tooth on a 70cc saw will make it like a 50-60cc saw in terms of torque. Maybe you can do a video on the ramifications of speed vs torque. ;-)
Think my chain has stretched, I noticed it was doing that the other day, it’s only done a little work, maybe 5 tanks now. Just running the factory setting. Watching your Vids and Buckin’s have opened my eyes to the art of tree felling and saw Maintenance. Thanks for passing on all of your knowledge!
It’s better to pay attention to Harvey than wreck stuff and learn. I was never a logger and never went to tree climbing school or did firewood for a neighbor, I liked cleaning up the yard with my dad and the old homelite tophandle thing. Xl maybe? Anyway, now I sell firewood all the time and do residential tree removals and stumps been doin it 15 years sporadically as the jobs come in. I log with farm tractor (8n), I brought a few logs to harden furniture before they shut down now with no mill, just firewood. learned it all by trial and error I broke a lot. Now I know more than many. Harvey has all the engineering tricks pay attention. I wouldn’t be able to elaborate anything on this schooling tho I like to sound smart
Great vid Harvey , I'm no pro by any means . Been running a saw for the better part of 30-35 years as a weekend warrior firewood cuttin and just cause i love chainsaws and the smell of 2 cycle and sawdust . Dad taught me most of what i know and the rest i picked up along the way on my own. Keep up the good vids and invaluable info. I could listen to ya talk about this stuff all day long, can't tell ya how much iv'e learned from you. Thank ya.
Just learned that the 375k jug is the same as the 372xpg... 51.4??? I’m gonna find out... just found one and got it on it’s way? 🤔. It looks like the ports are in the correct location??? Thanks for all your great videos!!! I’m still trying to figure out how to take advantage of the crazy port into the transfer on the 357xp... crazy design on these little jugs??? LOL. Great fun playing with these saw’s! Thanks again for all your shared knowledge!
Yeah, for sure a real can of worms there! Currently running an 8 tooth sprocket with .404 chain and it's a bit rough for my liking. Been considering a switch to 3/8 chain but surely need more than 8 teeth. This old Mall bar has a pretty big tail so can accommodate most any reasonable rim. I agree with running chain not too tight too, really makes a difference. I really appreciate your point on skip chain kickback, valuable advice there that might prevent injury for someone.
Your video is great! It would be cool if someday you could show a difference in the actual wood chips and what they should look like for proper sharpness and type of wood!
Great video, thank you. I did some calculations in my head. The eight tooth has 1/7th more teeth, and therefore would rotate the chain at 1/7th faster rate than the 7 tooth (1/7 = ~ 1 percent). Also, I've found that the 8 tooth sprocket is nice for soft wood, and rather than change the cutting profile of the chain, it's easier to change the sprocket, from 7 to 8 tooth,,,, I have no idea why one would use a 9 tooth chain. Thanks again
Thank you so much for this video Harvey!! I learned a lot. I was just trying to figure out how I’m going to set my new saw up and also figure out what cc I’m going to run. I’m most likely going to go with the 395. And I’m hoping to have you port it and do a racing piston and possibly exhaust!! I’m going to run a 32 inch bar. So I think I might try a 8 tooth with skip chain. We will see. Thank you again Harvey. Pete Dellarma Skowhegan Maine
I know it will be a while before you can do this job for me. But that’s absolutely ok. I’m in no rush. As long as it’s ok if I run it a little before you port it. I know I could have other people do it Harvey but I have seen your finish products and I would just rather have you do it. Have a great week my friend. I’ll call or email you soon
rather than measuring the outer edge of a sprocket that's traveling in a smaller path than the chain, just measure the distance between the chain's drive links (stretched out straight) times the number of pins on the sprocket.
Enjoyed the video. Very informative. Between you and afleetcommand I am learning a lot about this stuff. Who though running a chainsaw could be this fun or interesting.
Hi Harvey! The numbers isn't right. The sprocket isn't surface feeding. It feeds around the cirkle given by the chain rivets (the part of the chain thats on the sprocket) . A 7 tooth 3/8 makes about 5 1/4 inch per revolution (I just checked to verify) . Mark up the sprocket as you did, and a corresponding mark on the chain, and put in on a saw with a bar and turn one rev and you will see. It will feed 2x3/8"x7.
I've ran saws for years even logged for some years, come to find out I didn't really know shit lol I cant believe how much I learning thanks for your wisdom brother
Great stuff Harvey, I've been trying to catch up on your old videos. It looks like you were chasing cats with that chain with all the fur on it. Cheers from Tassie.
You are showing things I've been trying to convince my cutting buddy. He's been cutting longer, but I'm a quick learner. Thanks for this. I'm going to MAKE him watch this so he'll se I'm (we're) right.
He's forgot more knowledge in those bibs then I'll ever have lol. Love this guy
I love how he explains things like your cool drunk Uncle would
I thought I knew quite a bit about saws, until I started watching this channel.
Very Nice, i did the same Math years ago changing 7pin 325 into 6 pin 3/8 on a smaller Saw for more Performance in bigger wood.
325 has more Cutters on the same chainlength .
Germany has almost only full house chains, never seen a half or Fullskipchain in a Shop here.
Maybe caused by the smaller Trees we have here. A 24“ Bar ist mostly everything you need here.
My Dolmar 143 has a 24“ Bar with fullhouse and an 8 pin Sprocket. Rakers. at 0.8 millimeters.
Runs great. I cutted down a Redwoodtree at full Barlength and now i know why i should try to get a Fullskipchain. With Barnose in the wood ist is harder to cut through.
Very good Video with a lot of Experience. I will try the less Chaintension! Thanks and Greetings from Germany.
Running an old stretched chain on a new sprocket will screw up the new sprocket and make the chain more likely to jump. Keep new sprockets and chains running together and let them wear together.
50 years of knowledge in just over half hour, I'm going to grab a beer and watch this video again!
I have had a lot of guys give me shit over the years for running my chains and sprockets the way I do. You just proved me right!!! You are the boss man!! Thanks!!
Hi Harvey, I'm a motocross guy and understand everything you said about the sprocket and I also ran a forwarder for about 10 years but I've learned more in the last 30 minutes and actually understand why things do what they do because of your explanation. I don't claim to be a sawman, but I enjoy learning and widening my skillset. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge Harvey.
Your knowledge coupled with your humbleness is truly a great combination and a excellent example to us all, thank you sir for both
@@dallasdavis3246 he's not my hero anymore you are
I've never heard chain stretch explained before. Great info!
And just like that I see the light! I trash picked a 40 cc poulan, it was a dull ,dirty mess. Got it squared away and sharpened the chain. Went to pull the chain around the bar and it went “chunk chunk chunk”. I will now go back and look closely at the chain for wear. If it’s like the rest of the saw was it too is probably ridden hard and put away wet. Thank you Sir for sharing all this unwritten knowledge!
Cool! Thanks!
I have experienced just what your talking about with the recutting saw dust. I really liked this video. Thanks so much for your time sir.
Thanks as always for sharing Harvey.
If I may add a bit of what I’ve learned over my 60yrs.....I’ve never ran skip chain but I’m going to try it soon. I’ve always felt rakers/depth gauges don’t need to be touched until pretty well 1/2 a new chain teeth have been removed. 25 yrs ago I started using 13/64” files on 3/8” chain vs 7/32” so very much smoother in the cut especially cutting hardwoods. That little tidbit came from the head of Stihl head office tech dept here in Canada whos now passed on, Dave was a genius. 10% smoother and 10% faster cutting. When taking my rakers down my last swat with the flat file I’ll hit the front corner which makes for a nice little ramp coming into the cut vs a blunt edge. Less chance of any chatter or at least that’s only my opinion
I never allow my chains to sag, ever. too much of a chance to spit the chain while cutting in horizontal position say while setting our #1 cut for our notch, (sighting line while felling). Proper Tensioning, always always keep bar tip lifted up and tension chain Just Until the links come in contact with bottom of bar. When letting off the throttle, if that chain comes to an abrupt stop, it’s too tight, readjust, excessive friction costs HP and causes heat, heat removes temper from chain and bar.
Squaring off the top of rackets also allows the tooth and racked to clean out more material increasing a cleaner cut, thus less time to complete cut. Been doing this on full comp and skip chains for 30+ years. In big wood and smaller. Only small diameter logs tend to chatter more, but still cutable
You would not believe how many worn out bars and chains people bring in the shop from over tighten.Worn out sprockets from Poulan's to Stihl's don't matter to folk's.You can tell them and the next month or so they will be back for another bar and chain. Good video Ironhorse you broke it down really well for folks to understand.Thumbs up to you buddy !!
Thanks Harvey very educational. Great to know the information on the different size sprockets, and how they work and what they work best with.🌲❤🌲
Good demo cheers ironhorse. I've been a paid feller for many years, this presentation cemented and made clear lots of murky info I had. Again, cheers you beauty.
Harv, I learn something new every time I see one of your videos. Thanks for getting all this knowledge and experience out there for others.
Not a logger, Im a wood burner . Great video with tons of info . I use mostly skip tooth with 50 to 60 cc saws. You explained things very well and i agree with you on all . And yes I have stretched me some chain. Thanks Harvey.
Love the information and stories. I'm learning little at a time with my 361 cleaning up my 5 acres of woods.
The amount of knowledge that he gives is amazing. Good stuff.
Harvey I like your approach to solving problems
Thank you for the UA-cam instructions sprockets and chains learned a lot thank you very much
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You are teaching men to fish, not just feeding them.
You had me at pie Ironhorse! Then I didn’t get any… 😂 Thank you for the knowledge!
thanks for a great video, there is tons of valuable knowledge. the kind that wont be in the books, thats the best kind.
Between this video of yours and Billy’s I have a much better idea of what is happening with my chain in the cut. I know running my chain too tight is bad for my saws bearings so I like it a little on the looser side but not too much. Great practical information! Thanks!
You have been changing my world over the past few months brother! You and Buckin' both have. I 'm a new subscriber back about the 2nd week of March when you showed up in my feed. I was just out in the garage with this video going while I was cleaning and going over some of my saws. I had just had the bar off and had put the chain back on and I just checked my chain tension when you mentioned it. I had just thought that the chain didn't feel quite right because I just tossed the chain on. Over the years everyone around me have always shown me to get the chain quite a bit tighter than what it probably should have been. Lucky for me there is barley any time on that chain. Didn't kill the sprocket but it needs a new one after 37 years. It's that saw's birthday today Oct 6, 1983. A Stihl 024 AV. Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing all that info Harv! Great insight! Was always curious about 7 versus 8 pin. Your observations make sense!
Your right as rain, Harvey. Lots of great info for us old cutters as well as the younguns.
Thank you for your time on sprocket information , and helping me understand the pros and cons . Telling me of the dangers involved with bore cuts and skip chains , as I understand from you, If I was cutting soft wood with a skip tooth this would give my chain more time to expel chips . Keeping the chain running straight .. By increasing the speed with 8 tooth sprocket on full skip chain ? .I am just a greenhorn when it comes to cutting ,and the information and attention to safety issues are something I really needed to understand ! I also vary the raker depth like you do . I think it gives the chain a hammer drill affect , Runs a little rougher on the bar I think ....I am one guy who asked you to do this video , Posted on your skidder video. SORRY !
MAN, WHAT YOU AND BUCKIN' SHARE HAS TAKEN ME TO ANOTHER LEVEL. I'M SHUDDERING AT WHAT I DID NOT KNOW...
Great video as always. It took me a long time, and a lot of sprockets, chains, and bars to figure out to not run them so tight. Running them tight is also hard on the crank and bearings. Keeping them sharp, correct depth height, and correct tension makes your saw work much better and easier, and prolongs the life of your equipment. Here in East Coast of Canada I run all full comp chisel tooth chains, and 7 tooth sprockets. Mostly Stihl brand. I like them the best. Thanks again Harv, great explanation!
Greetings from No. VT - Buckin said you were the master, this video was great and answered so many questions I have had about chains over the years. Thank you.
logged and fell professionally for years. My happy place for set up was, an MS 460, 32" bar, 7 tooth, full skip, rakers filed flat. 3 strokes off rakers off of new factory chain. Then, 2 rakers passes per filing as I ran.... was a timber felling fool!
man I learned a lot, thank you it was real, Ill be saving this one a playing it back a few times.
Great video Harvey 👍. Its great information for people so they can be safe. Be good.
AWESOME video! I really like the depth gauge method. AND GREAT CHAIN MAINTENANCE PROGRAM, I BELIEVE EVERY WORD, my long bar saw still glides, it all makes perfect sense
Never tried a 8 or 9 tooth. Great video. Thanks
"Make things obvious." Best advice ever given to a man with a saw in his hands.
Very good video. I always learn something. The day I stop learning is the day I leave this earth.
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge from experience. Buckin Billy Ray was right when he said that you can't go wrong with The Ironhorse.
Great video, Harvey. I cherish the details and the years of experience behind it all!
Saved in my bookmarks so I can play it into my permanent memory...thanks for the sawdust pearls.
Thanks Ironhorse, always put a slant on my rakers, thinking in error it would help it run easier in the wood. Thanks for straightening me out.
You are absolutely right on all points! The only thing I would add is. Out here on the left side of the country where we run long bars. 30" and up. Once you get out past about a 36" bar a 8 tooth sprocket even with full house chain will have an advantage. Because as the bar gets longer it takes more time for the chain to make it around the bar. Running an 8 tooth will bring the speed back up to where it's close to what a 24" bar would be. We have a lot softer wood out here so you can get away with that. Now that's talking on a 80cc saw or above. Also 8 tooth and skip chain work really well on bars that exceed 40" because you maintain good speed and you have enough room between the teeth to not wood up pulling a chain through 40" of wood.
As an equipment owner and operator I agree over tensioning chain or tracks just multiplies the working torque on the track parts or chain and thus stretches it or wears the sprocket, pins, and links faster than it would under proper tension. I am not saying all manufacturer specs are correct for the work your doing however. Example 1: the dozer is used at the city dump all it does is go straight up and down a fairly flat surface and minimal turning pressure to move over a blade width for every 2 pushes. That track can stand to be tighter and not wear as fast. Example 2 dozer pushing trees on rough ground or dozer doing grade work. These need to be in proper tension due to the tension under load on uneven surfaces this gets the most hours out of the pins, links and sprockets. Loose-loose is a no-no for any tracked equipment because the stress involved when the track is thrown and standard practice of operators not using proper methods (cutting corners) to get it back on the machine. Exactly like one of Buckin's recent videos where he used the saw to put the chain back onto the bar without un-tensioning the bar and doing it by hand. Every shortcut has a drawback and when that drawback is 24hours downtime on a machine with a broken grouser and link because 2 operators used a hoe to attempt reinstalling a track only then do you see the reasoning of it being only 1 hour downtime to open the idler ram un-tension the ram reinstall the track then re-tension the ram and get some working hours on the machine versus a huge profit loss (@$200/hr for a dozer) plus 24hours or more downtime. As far as personal preference on saw chains I like about 1/4 to 3/8 inch slack on the bottom unless its new chain I might put a new chain on tight to 1/16in slack. I must be lacking some skills in limbing cause I don't use the tip of the saw like you explained im 1-2 inches back off the center axis of the front sprocket on the bar but I aint a logger either. Thx a lot for the video fella.
Perfect!
That’s about how I check raker height. Basically, I scan down the cutters with my eyes, looking for about a sparkplug gap between the top of the cutter and the raker top. If it does not have this gap I hit the top of the rakers a few strokes. I typically run LGX or RS on my bigger saws.
THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO TAKES AWHILE TO DIGEST DON'T GET IN A HURRY BAD THINGS HAPPEN YOU ARE SO RIGHT ABOUT CHAIN STRETCH
Great video.!!! When running a circle mill. The balance of the saw is key!!!!!! If your saw isn’t hammered correctly it will Lead inward. I say that to say it also depends on how true your mandrel is. If theses couple things I mentioned are not true , then yes the saw will chase the grain around knots when doing your face cut.
Spot on sharpening technique and chain tightness could not say it better. Never used a skip tooth.
Isn't it funny how when something is explained in a physics/mechanical way, it just makes perfect sense why it does what it does the way it does.
I done the exact same thing when I started out felling for the skyline winch, went hell for leather without much thought going into it, definitely made thing better once I'd had a spell at chokering 😁
Learning all kinds of things from you Harv! Thanks for your videos!
Harvey, you went into very good detail. I learned a lot from this video and will implement this into my saw and how I use it, thanks so much.!!
Great video lots of knowledge. From a man who knows what he is talking about. Thank you Harvey! That chainsaw carved sign is awesome!
I look for a spark plug gap between the top of the cutter and the top of the raker. I typically round off the top of the raker to keep it in line with the leading edge of the raker. This reduces chatter. I run full house chains on 7 pin sprockets on 20 inch bars 3/8, .050 chain. My typical chain is an Oregon LGX or Stihl RS chain. I hand file all chains and I would bet you would find nothing wrong with my chains. I snug my chains up to the bottom of the bar, lift the end of the bar and resnug. That was the way I was taught and it has worked well for me for fifty years.
Spot on with everything i could relate to. Thank you for the in depth videos buddy. Most folks on youtube just dont take the time you an Cullen do.
Nice teaching video .super interesting. Alot of food for thought in there. You're way above my pay grade .
Thank you Ironhorse for your sage insight. Well done and greatly appreciated.
If I could give this video more than one like I would. I am a Steamfitter/Welder by trade, but I love chainsawing.
Learned a lot on your channel, keep it coming. Thanks
I learned to keep a slacker chain, will do that next time, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
nice heartrolla wood stove i have one too, good video. i knew this already i just cant find one for my 29 year old 038.
Hello Harvey good vedio on the different sprockets and chain's for the saws different people use in the timber industry i just wanted to tell you when I used to tension my chains up i always had a quarter inch of play left in them and I made sure they always was on the guide the right way as well and wasn't locked on it too have a good day now and I'll be waiting on the next video here too thanks
I like the long videos where you go into different things. A guy learns a lot in 40 min
Great video, great information. Learning a ton Ironhorse. Truly appreciate you explaining it all, breaking it down, helps a ton when you are at the salary of the learning curve. Learning the terms, how it works, and how to become better. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Very well done video and well explained! I've played around with skip vs full, prefer full for most cutting - smoother when cleaning out an undercut and nicer for limbing (cutting BC coast softwoods). I like skip for trimming and cleaning up logs at my mill and landing - less sharpening time when cutting on dirty timber. I run a couple of 372s and a 440 with 28'' bars.
Great video harvey, so much detail. Explaning the relationship of chain tension to sprocket life awesome. My frandfather taught me if your chain doesnt shoot down that bar, your foolish. Thankyou.
Thanks for taking the time to make this detailed explanation Ironhorse. You rock!
I’m a one man show an you are right on point with everything 100% only thing I would add is the faster the speed of the chain you will have more heat and your bar will expand and your chain gets tighter
Thanks for the video, I don't mind a log one here and there. Best to explain thoroughly.
Thanks for your knowledge, you’ve lived it!
GOODMORNING BUDDY NICE tutorial video i wished I LIVED near you I could listen to you all day take care HARVEY ,CULLIN and BARB love use all
Great Video Ironhorse.! I learned a lot from this video. Thanks for going a little further with the rakers and bore cutting. I run full skip and do bore cutting and already figured out the best way to start the cut. Though doing blowdowns, it can be hard to utilize the safe zone to get started sometimes. I've been contemplating on going from a 7 to 8 tooth sprocket on my Mac 7-10. I know that increasing teeth increases speed, but reduces torque. So a 7 tooth on a 70cc saw will make it like a 50-60cc saw in terms of torque. Maybe you can do a video on the ramifications of speed vs torque. ;-)
Sure!
Think my chain has stretched, I noticed it was doing that the other day, it’s only done a little work, maybe 5 tanks now. Just running the factory setting.
Watching your Vids and Buckin’s have opened my eyes to the art of tree felling and saw Maintenance.
Thanks for passing on all of your knowledge!
Just boil it, then it'll shrink like a woolly sweater 🤫🤣
It’s better to pay attention to Harvey than wreck stuff and learn. I was never a logger and never went to tree climbing school or did firewood for a neighbor, I liked cleaning up the yard with my dad and the old homelite tophandle thing. Xl maybe? Anyway, now I sell firewood all the time and do residential tree removals and stumps been doin it 15 years sporadically as the jobs come in. I log with farm tractor (8n), I brought a few logs to harden furniture before they shut down now with no mill, just firewood. learned it all by trial and error I broke a lot. Now I know more than many. Harvey has all the engineering tricks pay attention. I wouldn’t be able to elaborate anything on this schooling tho I like to sound smart
Thanks Harvey that was pretty straightforward I’m not confused at all as usual and I do like Chainsaw art love that iron horse
Great vid Harvey , I'm no pro by any means . Been running a saw for the better part of 30-35 years as a weekend warrior firewood cuttin and just cause i love chainsaws and the smell of 2 cycle and sawdust . Dad taught me most of what i know and the rest i picked up along the way on my own. Keep up the good vids and invaluable info. I could listen to ya talk about this stuff all day long, can't tell ya how much iv'e learned from you. Thank ya.
Just learned that the 375k jug is the same as the 372xpg... 51.4??? I’m gonna find out... just found one and got it on it’s way? 🤔. It looks like the ports are in the correct location??? Thanks for all your great videos!!! I’m still trying to figure out how to take advantage of the crazy port into the transfer on the 357xp... crazy design on these little jugs??? LOL. Great fun playing with these saw’s! Thanks again for all your shared knowledge!
great info and knowledge..... thanks for the video!....be kind!
Yeah, for sure a real can of worms there!
Currently running an 8 tooth sprocket with .404 chain and it's a bit rough for my liking. Been considering a switch to 3/8 chain but surely need more than 8 teeth. This old Mall bar has a pretty big tail so can accommodate most any reasonable rim.
I agree with running chain not too tight too, really makes a difference.
I really appreciate your point on skip chain kickback, valuable advice there that might prevent injury for someone.
IRONHORSE, Bless you for sharing your wisdom with us!!!
Your video is great! It would be cool if someday you could show a difference in the actual wood chips and what they should look like for proper sharpness and type of wood!
That’s for sharing your knowledge you’ve taken the gray area out of filing chain,
Goodmorning from alabama. Glad you shared the info. Any day l.can learn something new is a good day. Thanks.
Great video, thank you. I did some calculations in my head. The eight tooth has 1/7th more teeth, and therefore would rotate the chain at 1/7th faster rate than the 7 tooth (1/7 = ~ 1 percent). Also, I've found that the 8 tooth sprocket is nice for soft wood, and rather than change the cutting profile of the chain, it's easier to change the sprocket, from 7 to 8 tooth,,,, I have no idea why one would use a 9 tooth chain. Thanks again
Great video Harvey, I really appreciate your help and information.
Fantastic insight - thankyou
Thank you so much for this video Harvey!! I learned a lot. I was just trying to figure out how I’m going to set my new saw up and also figure out what cc I’m going to run. I’m most likely going to go with the 395. And I’m hoping to have you port it and do a racing piston and possibly exhaust!! I’m going to run a 32 inch bar. So I think I might try a 8 tooth with skip chain. We will see. Thank you again Harvey. Pete Dellarma Skowhegan Maine
I know it will be a while before you can do this job for me. But that’s absolutely ok. I’m in no rush. As long as it’s ok if I run it a little before you port it. I know I could have other people do it Harvey but I have seen your finish products and I would just rather have you do it. Have a great week my friend. I’ll call or email you soon
rather than measuring the outer edge of a sprocket that's traveling in a smaller path than the chain, just measure the distance between the chain's drive links (stretched out straight) times the number of pins on the sprocket.
Enjoyed the video. Very informative. Between you and afleetcommand I am learning a lot about this stuff. Who though running a chainsaw could be this fun or interesting.
Spot on on everything. Thank you. I did pick up some tips once I thought about. It all makes sense. 👍
I like a loose chain. Tight ones eat things up and slows things down for sure.
My new GOD...
THANK YOU...Sir..
I actually learned something today
This info Is gold thanks for sharing!!
Hi Harvey! The numbers isn't right. The sprocket isn't surface feeding. It feeds around the cirkle given by the chain rivets (the part of the chain thats on the sprocket) . A 7 tooth 3/8 makes about 5 1/4 inch per revolution (I just checked to verify) . Mark up the sprocket as you did, and a corresponding mark on the chain, and put in on a saw with a bar and turn one rev and you will see. It will feed 2x3/8"x7.
I've ran saws for years even logged for some years, come to find out I didn't really know shit lol I cant believe how much I learning thanks for your wisdom brother
Awesome videos very informative all say a lose chain is faster and you get way less bar wear and you don't blow the nose of your bar out as often
Great stuff Harvey, I've been trying to catch up on your old videos. It looks like you were chasing cats with that chain with all the fur on it. Cheers from Tassie.
Great content as usual!!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge👍 I’m always learning when I flip on an Ironhorse video!!