Thank you SO MUCH!! I was having such a hard time figuring out why my pop bumper assemblies weren’t sitting quite right, and then at 8:30 you show exactly why. I was aligning the two plastic parts so both of the bigger posts matched up instead of sliding the small post into the big one!
Corey - great video. But I'd call it Part One of a two-parter. You got the top, although I'd definitely have replaced the apron / skirt spring as well since that helps keep the pin centered in the spoon. Part Two: Solenoid Love. Pull the plunger, replace the sleeve and compression spring - all dirt cheap - and scotchbrite that plunger before reassembly. I'll also reverse the phenolic since the spring usually wears it down and reversing it is a cheap way to add a lot of life for zero dinero. And finally... that SPOON. OMG... that spoon has GOT to go. It's cracked and likely has a divot worn into it. Spoons are $1.09 from our favorite parts palace... last but not least, you should discuss the spoon and switch gap adjustments to get them working like new! Funny story - I live in Toms River, NJ and am an IFPA player. Was looking for nearby IFPA events and all of the sudden a bunch of London Pinball stuff came up at the Forked River Brewery, including a Jaws Launch Party just minutes from my home!! Imagine my utter dismay when I realized that the Forked River Brewery is NOT just the next town south but in Ontario, Canada!! Sadness. That's going to make the weekly tournaments a bit of stretch for me... LOL And now the Stupid Question du Jour... was Scotchbrite invented by a Scott?? Inquiring minds wanna know!! At least I now know where wire nuts came from! - SilverBallzzz
Thank you Soooo much!!! I have the same machine, and until this video... had found no luck in rebuilding and installing these on any other site or machine. As luck would have it... you did it on mine, which is a bonus.
With the help of a micrometer, Fusion360, and a 3D printers loaded with nylon filament, I NEVER have to buy plastics for my aged pinball machine! And when I eventually purchase a 3D scanner, I'll never need to model replacement parts! Viva Right-to-Repair!
Great video. I just picked up an OXO machine. I have never worked on pinball machines before, but I am good with fixing things. My three bumpers are not working correctly. When I hit the skirt, it does not do anything. I pulled down the metal flange part it registers the points, and the actuator works to push the ball away. My question to you is what could be going on that all three of the bumpers would not work as described above?
If your pops AND slings don't work, the fuse is likely blown. There's a bridge rectifier and fuse attached to the bottom of the playfield that provide DC voltage to the pops and slings. Check the wiring to the bridge and the fuse. If the fuse is blown, replace it. If it blows again, the bridge may need to be replaced or one of the pops or slings has a shorted solenoid.
London Pinball, what lamps can you use in pinball games that are very low wattage? why did they use negative -6 vac and not use positive voltage for the lamp bulbs?Any reasons why the pop bumpers coil resistance is different than the drop target coils resistance and flipper coils?
Not sure what you mean by negative voltage. The lamps in pinball machines, as far as I'm aware, generally operate on 6vac. That's the voltage coming off the transformer and what the schematic says anyway. LED's are very low voltage, but using them in anything other than general illumination in an electromechanical game will cause them to flicker during game play. This isn't generally an issue in solid state machines (early solid state Bally/Stern machines require a special lamp driver or adapter boards, though). Coil resistance is related to the strength of the coils; the lower the resistance, the stronger the coil, generally. Flipper coils are dual-wound so that they're essentially two coils in one; one side is for the high power kick of the coil and the other side is for the hold circuit. This ensures a strong flip but once the initial engagement of the coil, in order to prevent the coil from burning up, the end-of-stroke (EOS) switch on the flipper mech opens up and causes the hold side to take over. The hold side is a much higher resistance than the high power side so that the flipper can be engaged for long periods of time. Is this a test? Did I pass?
Thanks for the help, not a test. The EM games that are AC voltages all the Coils resistance values are completely different compared to EM games that are DC voltage the Coils resistances values are different compared to EM games that are AC voltages, any reasons why they change the coils resistance because they switched from AC voltages to DC voltages?Why does the LED lights flicker in electromechanical games? and in early solid state games? The PIA chips are RAM chips with built in internal ADC/DAC converts for the light matrix circuits and lamp matrix circuits, or what are PIA chips?
@@waynegram8907I'm really not sure why coil resistance was sometimes different between AC and DC games. But sometimes they weren't. Gottlieb often used the same coils before and after switching to DC voltages. The only difference was the presence of a diode across the coil lugs. It's my understanding that LED lights can flicker in Bally/Stern solid state machines because the controlled lights are switched on and off with a SCR rather than a transistor. SCR's don't latch in the same way that transistors do and since LED's operate "faster" than incandescent lamps, this difference can manifest itself on LED's as a flicker. PIA chips are peripheral interface adapters that control devices via commands from the 6800 processor. PIA''s usually control a transistor that in turn allows a solenoid or lamp to turn on or off. See here for more info on that: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peripheral_Interface_Adapter For what it's worth, I'm not much of an expert on integrated circuits or electrical behavior. My experience is purely with electromechanical and solid state pinball machines and arcade games. Any knowledge I have about electronics comes from working on these machines since about 2002. I am often perplexed as to how circuits actually function. I've managed to repair a very large number of machines through trial and error and any appearance of actual wisdom that I seem to have is purely accidental.
The Diode across the coil lugs was for what reasons? To prevent negative voltage for the flyback voltage on the coils I thought.I have seen capacitors across the switches for pop bumpers and drop targets The Bally/Stern Solenoid/coil driver boards used SCR's instead of using Solenoid and Coil driver boards used Transistor drivers?Are you saying that Bally/Stern used SCR's for the lamp driver boards and didn't use transistors for the lamp driver boards?
@@waynegram8907 Yes, Bally and Stern used SCR's on their lamp drivers (2n5060's) whereas Gottlieb and Williams used transistors (MPS-A13's, for example). The capacitors on the pop, sling and target switches are to make them more sensitive to quick hits so that the switch pulse is lengthened and the MPU has a better chance of reading it. Diodes are placed across coil lugs to suppress the voltage that is generated when the magnetic field of the coil collapses, after the power is removed from the coil. On solid state games, this prevents EMF from causing issues on the driver and MPU. For example if a diode breaks or is removed from a coil on a solid state machine, the game can reset when that coil activates.
Thank you SO MUCH!! I was having such a hard time figuring out why my pop bumper assemblies weren’t sitting quite right, and then at 8:30 you show exactly why. I was aligning the two plastic parts so both of the bigger posts matched up instead of sliding the small post into the big one!
Thanks much for your video. I am rebuilding a Gottlieb Pinball Pool that was kept in a barn in central Florida. Oh boy it is a mess.
Just about to do my Bally Eight Ball, Thank's heap's.
Love the new intro video! The "Marretted" description cut is the best part of the video :) Need more of those in future videos!
Corey - great video. But I'd call it Part One of a two-parter. You got the top, although I'd definitely have replaced the apron / skirt spring as well since that helps keep the pin centered in the spoon. Part Two: Solenoid Love. Pull the plunger, replace the sleeve and compression spring - all dirt cheap - and scotchbrite that plunger before reassembly. I'll also reverse the phenolic since the spring usually wears it down and reversing it is a cheap way to add a lot of life for zero dinero. And finally... that SPOON. OMG... that spoon has GOT to go. It's cracked and likely has a divot worn into it. Spoons are $1.09 from our favorite parts palace... last but not least, you should discuss the spoon and switch gap adjustments to get them working like new!
Funny story - I live in Toms River, NJ and am an IFPA player. Was looking for nearby IFPA events and all of the sudden a bunch of London Pinball stuff came up at the Forked River Brewery, including a Jaws Launch Party just minutes from my home!! Imagine my utter dismay when I realized that the Forked River Brewery is NOT just the next town south but in Ontario, Canada!! Sadness. That's going to make the weekly tournaments a bit of stretch for me... LOL
And now the Stupid Question du Jour... was Scotchbrite invented by a Scott?? Inquiring minds wanna know!! At least I now know where wire nuts came from! - SilverBallzzz
Love this ♥️ Greetings from Argentina.
Thank you Soooo much!!! I have the same machine, and until this video... had found no luck in rebuilding and installing these on any other site or machine. As luck would have it... you did it on mine, which is a bonus.
Very helpful, Thanks for posting!
With the help of a micrometer, Fusion360, and a 3D printers loaded with nylon filament, I NEVER have to buy plastics for my aged pinball machine! And when I eventually purchase a 3D scanner, I'll never need to model replacement parts! Viva Right-to-Repair!
You're fantastic 😍
yay more intro
Great video. I just picked up an OXO machine. I have never worked on pinball machines before, but I am good with fixing things. My three bumpers are not working correctly. When I hit the skirt, it does not do anything. I pulled down the metal flange part it registers the points, and the actuator works to push the ball away. My question to you is what could be going on that all three of the bumpers would not work as described above?
If your pops AND slings don't work, the fuse is likely blown. There's a bridge rectifier and fuse attached to the bottom of the playfield that provide DC voltage to the pops and slings. Check the wiring to the bridge and the fuse. If the fuse is blown, replace it. If it blows again, the bridge may need to be replaced or one of the pops or slings has a shorted solenoid.
Fixing a Gorgar skirt.. What a pain in the a$$.. This was the only detailed video explaining why it would not lift out
Thank you!
You bet!
How did he turn the marrette from yellow to blue?!?!? Mind blown
Lamp sockets are polarity specific.
Not in an EM and not in a solid state machine without a diode. Thanks for your comment. And thanks for watching.
London Pinball, what lamps can you use in pinball games that are very low wattage? why did they use negative -6 vac and not use positive voltage for the lamp bulbs?Any reasons why the pop bumpers coil resistance is different than the drop target coils resistance and flipper coils?
Not sure what you mean by negative voltage. The lamps in pinball machines, as far as I'm aware, generally operate on 6vac. That's the voltage coming off the transformer and what the schematic says anyway. LED's are very low voltage, but using them in anything other than general illumination in an electromechanical game will cause them to flicker during game play. This isn't generally an issue in solid state machines (early solid state Bally/Stern machines require a special lamp driver or adapter boards, though). Coil resistance is related to the strength of the coils; the lower the resistance, the stronger the coil, generally. Flipper coils are dual-wound so that they're essentially two coils in one; one side is for the high power kick of the coil and the other side is for the hold circuit. This ensures a strong flip but once the initial engagement of the coil, in order to prevent the coil from burning up, the end-of-stroke (EOS) switch on the flipper mech opens up and causes the hold side to take over. The hold side is a much higher resistance than the high power side so that the flipper can be engaged for long periods of time. Is this a test? Did I pass?
Thanks for the help, not a test. The EM games that are AC voltages all the Coils resistance values are completely different compared to EM games that are DC voltage the Coils resistances values are different compared to EM games that are AC voltages, any reasons why they change the coils resistance because they switched from AC voltages to DC voltages?Why does the LED lights flicker in electromechanical games? and in early solid state games? The PIA chips are RAM chips with built in internal ADC/DAC converts for the light matrix circuits and lamp matrix circuits, or what are PIA chips?
@@waynegram8907I'm really not sure why coil resistance was sometimes different between AC and DC games. But sometimes they weren't. Gottlieb often used the same coils before and after switching to DC voltages. The only difference was the presence of a diode across the coil lugs. It's my understanding that LED lights can flicker in Bally/Stern solid state machines because the controlled lights are switched on and off with a SCR rather than a transistor. SCR's don't latch in the same way that transistors do and since LED's operate "faster" than incandescent lamps, this difference can manifest itself on LED's as a flicker. PIA chips are peripheral interface adapters that control devices via commands from the 6800 processor. PIA''s usually control a transistor that in turn allows a solenoid or lamp to turn on or off. See here for more info on that: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peripheral_Interface_Adapter
For what it's worth, I'm not much of an expert on integrated circuits or electrical behavior. My experience is purely with electromechanical and solid state pinball machines and arcade games. Any knowledge I have about electronics comes from working on these machines since about 2002. I am often perplexed as to how circuits actually function. I've managed to repair a very large number of machines through trial and error and any appearance of actual wisdom that I seem to have is purely accidental.
The Diode across the coil lugs was for what reasons? To prevent negative voltage for the flyback voltage on the coils I thought.I have seen capacitors across the switches for pop bumpers and drop targets The Bally/Stern Solenoid/coil driver boards used SCR's instead of using Solenoid and Coil driver boards used Transistor drivers?Are you saying that Bally/Stern used SCR's for the lamp driver boards and didn't use transistors for the lamp driver boards?
@@waynegram8907 Yes, Bally and Stern used SCR's on their lamp drivers (2n5060's) whereas Gottlieb and Williams used transistors (MPS-A13's, for example). The capacitors on the pop, sling and target switches are to make them more sensitive to quick hits so that the switch pulse is lengthened and the MPU has a better chance of reading it. Diodes are placed across coil lugs to suppress the voltage that is generated when the magnetic field of the coil collapses, after the power is removed from the coil. On solid state games, this prevents EMF from causing issues on the driver and MPU. For example if a diode breaks or is removed from a coil on a solid state machine, the game can reset when that coil activates.
Thank you
Thank YOU for watching!
magic
AWESOME... thank you!
Could have looked at the condition of the solenoid plunger and cleaned it while it was apart.
You're absolutely right. And I didn't replace the sleeve, either.
Nor inspect the playfield protective mylar ring, although I see it appears present, intact, and smooth.
👏👏👏+👍 🙂