In my past experience with the old points and condenser engines, 9 times out of 10 the points are not burned or wore out. I simply just file them so they mate together good and re-set them at .02 in. Then you should be good to go! I very seldem ever buy new ones. Back in the day growing up, my Dad taught me just use an old matchbook cover to set the points and although kinda crued, but it works!
This was my first try doing a "comment" it worked! I had already booked marked your tire flap trick. I'll need to drill my impeller but totally worth it. I'll find the pure"est" gas for my small engines as well. I put together rmy 1032 this weekend and I'll try to post a picture. wish me luck (with the posting a pic, JD should come together fine).
It hard to find a video that teach you as good as this young man does. He tell you all you need to know on changing these points. How to get to everything. Thanks so much. .
Thanks Man. Everything I do is self taught. I just start ripping stuff apart and putting it back together. The trick is to put it back together before you forget how it went.
Hello there, I received a Craftsman 3.0 (tecumseh h30) from my uncle. It has been quite the fun project so far. Just wanted to say that this has been the most informative video that I have watched so far, and believe me, I have watched about 20. Thanks so much. Jeff
+sixtyfiveford I replaced the magneto, points, and condenser. still a no go. I pour a little gas in the carb and it puffs one or twice. I might need a new carb?
Appreciate the time and effort to show this on a Tecumseh. I’m going to be getting an old Sears rototiller running again and I never worked on one of these before. Having the part #’s in your description is awesome too.
Thanks for the great video. I have a 1970 Fox Street Scamp with a 1969 Tecumseh HS40 with lighting coil. I have been doing a complete rebuild frame and engine. I sent the engine out to be rebuilt and it turned out beautiful. Now I need to change the points condenser and the coil. With your video any fear I had about taking this apart are gone thanks. You did not show how to change the coil. It looks like you where almost there. Thanks again,Matt
mkkmb5 I rarely change a coil as they either work or don't. They don't get weaker over time or anything like that so there's really never a need unlike the condenser and points.
Another tip if your taking something apart that you have never done before.... take pictures with a decent digital camera as you dis-assemble the project. That way you can look at the photos to see "what" went "where" as you re-assemble. It's especially helpful when you the have to wait for special order parts to arrive days or weeks later before you start the re-assemble process. I like using my I-Pad because it has a large screen for viewing and also can take a video if needed?
Thanks for watching. I was just on someone elses channel last night and I saw you won something(something about guessing whats in a box). And I think I saw you win something a couple months back. Congrats. -Moe
Great job on the vid , just like to add if the condenser is weak or bad the points will be burnt out. The condenser controls the voltage being supplied to the points.
Great vid easy to follow and informative. I was an ase tech for years just came across this while killing time on here. Id say someone who has basic mechanical skills could does this job by this video good job man. One tip: use a brass punch on the shaft then nothing to worry about.
I am about to change points and condenser on a 1965 Ariens sno thro with a Tecumseh 6 HP . If your machine is like mine, I don't think I will have much trouble. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
sixtyfiveford Got them changed with no trouble...a little slow but hey it was the first time I did it....Now to figure out how to mount a new carb that has a different choke lever
Was looking for a video on fixing a old snowblower. Here you show the very model. I need to fix (no spark). Thank for your time for making this video. Will subscribe
I never messed with a point before, but now I know what all of those little miscellaneous pieces were that I have been finding occasionally in my grandparent's stuff throughout the years. Old points and condensers. Thanks!
Thanks so much! After watching this I went out and found the points had actually come loose and were always closed. I adjusted them and problem solved!
I really enjoy your videos..Great,great stuff. You do an excellent job of explaining and showing what you are doing. One small caveat is your camera is fizzy on extreme close ups but that's just from a guy whose eyes aren't what they used to be. Awesome job. I have an older Tecumseh H60 that someone told me to pull the top of the head off and after I get to TDC to drop it a quarters width before I set the points. I don't think he really knew what he was talking about. Thanks.
Just bought an Ariens Rocket V tiller. It had no spark, so I tried cleaning the points, checking the coil, condenser, points, etc. Still couldn't get a spark, so I went back into it today. I noticed that there were 2 small wires coming off of the back of the coil and both of them were connected to the condensor. It was shorting itself out, and the longer wire should have been connected to the points. Glad I pulled the coil and everything off to check the coil today, and look for corrosion betweent the engine and the coil/points housing. Now I've got spark, tomorrow I'll clean the carb.
Yeah, I have noticed my camera doesn't like the close-ups. I try to remember not to do them in the videos. His method works just annoying that you have to pop the entire head off and put a new head gasket on when you're done. Thanks for watching and the kind comments. -Moe
Thanks for the help.....great video.....I was going to replace the coil and was surprised to see a points and condenser system when I pulled it....so I got you on you tube to verify.....I am old school.....have points in my boat....and cars I have serviced years ago.....this video is a nice refresher...and also is directly the model of snowblower I am dealing with.
I'm assuming yours is badged as a Craftsman and that is why your looking at Searspartsdirect. Cross the sears number to Tecumseh and there is a lot of stuff out there. The models with a magneto under the flywheel are adjustable but never go out of timing, unless someone has moved it. I do have all the specs to do it for standard Tecumsehs and I don't think because it is in a outboard it will make a difference. Do you need that info?
With the rope trick you just have to be careful to keep it out of the way of the valves or they'll bend. Make sure the piston is on the compression stroke.
Be careful when tightening down the nut that holds on the condenser wire because it can twist the spring on the points down so that it comes in contact with the base plate and shorts out the ignition and you won't get spark.
If you can find the exact Ohms the coil is supposed to be then you can test it with a multimeter. The trick there is finding out what your values should be. The condensers can be tested with a multimeter that have a capacitance setting. I bought a cheap multimeter just because it had this feature and it is able to tell. Again you need to know what the capacitance is for a give condenser(old name for a capacitor). I think that the spark plug wires attached to a coil begin to go bad.
You see , great content like this ...that teaches even us older folk is so awesome. To you sir , I say thank you. I did learn something today..I even subscribed! Have a good one..rock out
Use your model number to view online parts breakdowns (outdoordistributors is a good place). This will give you your part number. Points for Tecumsehs are avaliable at 1000's of online retailers. Ebay will most likely be the cheapest with shipping. It is most likely part number 30547A for points and 30548B for condenser. Let me know how it goes.
34852 (35545A new #) Piston, Pin & Ring Assy. (.010 oversize) 34853 (35546 new #) Piston, Pin & Ring Assy. (.020 oversize) 34854 Ring Set, Piston (Standard) (2-5/8") There are a few online places that still have the oversized kicking around on their shelf but they are not being made anymore(+-$75). With that said most of these engines wear the rings and the piston bore is still in great shape. I find just a couple second hone and original size rings ($10) and she'll be 95% new.
i have just used 20,000 all my life im 88 now so ihave seen a few as long as they open and close its ok if your point are pitting swap out the condensr you can clean the points and reuse if needed but can the condenser .
I have a Tecumseh HM80 8hp, that had spark this summer as well as a Briggs that has points and had spark. My shed catches a lot of moisture which I need to resolve this spring. But anyway, I sanded the points on the Briggs and the spark came right back, I did it on the Tecumseh twice and still nothing. Ive noticed this in the past too, the Tecumseh's are harder to deal with when it comes to points. What is most likely my issue? I cleaned them and sprayed contact cleaner on all the areas that you can, nothing. I have new points and condensor still in the package, but before I go wasting those what is the most likely thing that caused this or went bad? Should I try cleaning them better? Putting the flywheel and cover back on and than having to take them off again is a pain in the ass...
If you don't have an impact gun you can stick a piece of rope down the spark plug hole to hold the piston so you don't risk damaging the flywheel or the block cooling fins. You can also put a block of wood between the hammer and the crankshaft when you try knocking the flywheel off.
thanks for the video. saved me lots of money on possible parts to be bad. turned out my points were corroded beyond belief. after cleaning, it started on the first pull. thanks again for the video.
Hello, I have a 10HP Tecumseh with the numbers HMSK100-159168U-6064Q. The Gilson snow blower it is on numbers are 55340-47846. I have kept it going for years by doing the basics.This was a throw away so no manuals. I am not even sure if the spark plug in it it correct. I like to keep it even longer it is an animal in the snow. Any ideas where I can get manuals or the specs? Thanks for any info & this video,another great job!
I don't know what is wrong with my snowblower. It is from the 80's and probably has points. But I do get a spark at the spark plug, so does that mean the points are good or could they still be bad? So far cleaned the carb since it was leaking fuel. Got it back on and now I pull and no ignition. Going to get a can of starter fluid to see if I can at least get it running.
@@sixtyfiveford Thanks for the reply! I finally got it working today. I took the flywheel off, sanded the points with 400 grit, cleaned them with carb clean and paper, reassembled, had good spark. wouldn't start even with starter fluid, so I pulled off the carb, stuffed a rag into the intake port and soaked it with starter fluid. Fired right up, kept it running with starter fluid for about a minute. Put the carb back on and it fired right up. It just need to blow a few of the cobwebs out with the starter fluid it seems.
I tried finding the appropriate torque for a briggs and stratton engine 250 cc on a 28 deluxe snowblower for the flywheel I torque it about 55 foot pounds is this adequate and safe enough for the flywheel nut coming off...
Hi- I (had) an 8 hp Ariens Blower. The change for the points etc are not so simple. Points looked nothing like a shown though function surely similar. Timing was to have the points just beginning to open at 90 thousands prior to top dead center. Was quite frustrating to get set properly with an offset cylinder. Dial gauge and patience required. Cheers!.
I know electronic ignition is better but i still like the simplicity of the capacitor and points system, nothing much to go wrong :-) Smashing ccccold tutorial, as allways :-) Hope you got yourself back indoors and nice pot of hot coffee on the go :-)
nice video as I was struggling to get the cowling past the gear selector assembly. Where did you get those chains for the roughly 9.5 inch diameter wheels?
just replaced the points and condensers thanks to your video. I also cleaned and rebuild the card. Got it tuned and running good. but the reason why I done all this is because it would stall out when I would walk with it or throw snow so I thought if I would do what I did. It would work. nope still stalled out on my test runs. any suggestions.
Sixyfiveford. Great job!!! I enjoy all your videos. I'm about to do the same on my 1984 Toro snowblower with a H50 engine. I feel a lot better doing it after watching this video. John
Question: I have an old Sears/Craftsman snowblower with a 8hp Tecumseh. The plastic fins are almost all broken (although the remaining ones still move some air), and parts are hard to come by. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Great Video!!! have a question on the grounding thou. on the side of the carb, there is a linkage plate with one of the grounding wire attached. the head of it broke off and so I just stripped the casing of the wire and grounded it to a bolt of the engine. Was this not supposed to be constant grounded? I had it running before I did it but it just stopped so I figured it want the aged grounding wire. now I cant get it to run at all. Thanks for any help you can give.
great vid. You took me back in time on this one. LOL I think I speak for all of us here when I say we appreciate the vids and you do a great job with them. thanks for sharing
good video ! wish i could find an old flywheel for mine as magnet fell off and broke into a few pieces, have called some repair shops and they don't have a flywheel for my hm80-155127f snowbird hate to toss it out!
HMSK100 Horizontal Mount Snow King 10.0hp .. A king of a motor built on the March 5th 1986 (production for Gilson stopped in 1987). RJ17LM Champion A parts diagram can be downloaded at outdoorpowerdistributors com follow the Tecumseh links. For Gilson info go to gilsonsnowblowers com where a guy has a lot of cool stuff about them
great video, I tried to fire up my 1981 toro 421 snowblower. Had no spark, replaced points and condenser and coil and still have no spark disconnected key switch and the wire going to the points for the manual kill switch and still no spark. Any Ideas? points are at .20 the new plug is .30 used a business card to set the coil to flywheel magnet. Thanks
+Steve Felts Sometimes the engine needs to rotate quit a few times to initially charge the condensor, but I'm sure you've pulled it enough times to do this. I would pull the plug and check spark with the plug out. First I would make sure the kill wire hasn't been pinched under the shroud or that it isn't grounding out somehow as this seams to one of the biggest culprits. Make sure the spark plug lead wire isn't pinched between the housing/block and shorting as well. The points if they are greasy can stop a connection/spark as well. In very rare cases I've heard of weak flywheel magnets. You should be able to hold a screwdriver a 1/2" away and feel a pull.
I have a 1974 Tecumseh HM80 and it wasn't running right. I just did the points and condenser but I only get about an 1/8" or 3.5mm max spark length on my Lisle 20700 spark tester. Is this too weak? Do you think I need to change the coil?
I have a 40 year old outboard motor with a Tecumseh engine. I don't get a spark across the spark plug when I ground it, but I can feel the slight jolt when I ground the plug and hold it by the top. Replaced coil, condenser and points 10 years ago and barely used the motor since. I can test the condenser with my electronic meter. Is it possible my flywheel magnet is too weak to provide a spark?
So many people hate Tecumseh engines. I absolutely love them and I've never had a bad one. When buying power equipment, I would only buy them if they HAD a Tecumseh. At one time, 99.99 percent of all snowblowers came with the famous Tecumseh Snow King engine including all of the major manufacturers of quality machines ie: Toro, Ariens, John Deere, MTD, Craftsman; and the list goes on and on. Tecumseh actually MADE Craftsman Lawn Mowers famous. My John Deere 826 is 32 years old and it never misses a beat. Tecumseh; they were the best. Keep the carbs clean, change oil often and at the right level, and they work and work hard. They love it. What are your thoughts?
I'm a big fan of Tecumseh. I think Tecumseh made the easiest to start and best running winter engines ever. I've never had one I couldn't make a single pull start machine even in single digit temperatures. I love their push mower engines but prefer the larger Briggs Engines on Riding mowers.
I agree 100%, especially if its on a snowblower. Only one thing, the points are harder to deal with than on Tecumseh vs a Briggs. I'm dealing with it right now. Ive dealt with it in the past too. I sanded the points on the Briggs, spark came right back, the Tecumseh no dice and they both had spark in the summer time.. Otherwise their great, even better with electronic ignition.
They were pretty pitted. I actually tried a quick clean and reassembled the motor. It ran a little rough and then the light went off in my head " I should do a video" and replace them.
Older machines have it stamped right on the top. If you have electric start, it's directly under the plug in part. Newer machines have a decal on the side of the engine shroud on a permanent decal. I have never seen one worn off. A 521 Toro would be a 5hp 21" snowblower.
Nice video man, but i still have some question... If you have to set the entire coil where the 2 big screw that holds the entire thing to the engine , where would be the right point to set it up? I had to remove everything to replace the seal , i made marks to put back together but it never started after that.
Leonardo Oliveira It's actually a fairly complicated process to set it back up. But if you put it right back to where you marked it, it will be good. Did you check for spark at the plug?
i did , actually it´s brand new, I replaced all the little parts on the carburetor , new condenser, new bolts for the head, new fuel , gas line, filter , i don´t know what to do anymore
ug mold It isn't that critical but I slide a business card in between and tighten it up. Then pull out the business card and that gives it the proper gap.
Oh I guess since the video is on old Tecumsehs that is what you were referring to. I just gave generic instructions.. The old Tecumsehs are a pain and there is an extensive process if you removed it. Here is the Service Manual, you should need page 68 www.ccdist.com/_serviceManuals/tecumseh/692509.pdf
sixtyfiveford Thanks for the manual, will come in handy. What I did was loosened it thinking I was removing the condenser, probably didn't move. I filed off the pitted points and thru it back together and I have spark. Thanks again.
I've been lucky and only removed 1. I was able to see exactly where the marks of the bolts were and set it right back. It ran good so I've never went through the process.
This is all great, but what do you do when the 8HP horizontal (generator) engine has no nameplate/model number anywhere (there is nameplate for the generator, but that says nothing about the engine), and dealers claim magneto/point replacements "do not exist"? My magneto has 3 legs, and it is set inside a hollow flywheel (with inward-facing magnets). If I could get parts lists/diagrams from a group of engines, I could have a prayer of finding replacement parts! There are also electronic replacements for points/condenser that I would like to get for my engine.
@@bpark10001 Engine ID is stamped on the very top of the pull start air shroud. It should be a hm80. Manufactures like to bolt stuff over this stamping. If it was made after the mid 80's there are no points.
Just saw this one. The engine is just like this one and the blower too, except mine is an 8/26. It has the inside coil, soo, is it possible to convert this engine to electronic ignition?? How do you know if your points and condenser need to be changed? Mine looks like original. The I/2 moon pin or as we call it here (wood rift)pin in the crank is bent just a little, is this enough to put it off timing and make it backfire through the muffler. Thanks ever so much for your help and advice.
+sixtyfiveford Looked it up, "Nova2", it is just not worth the effort. We got some snow here, then it turned off to freezing rain. So, I have been working on the blower, set the points, fire is good, installed a brand new, never used carb, checked the valve gaps, they are perfect, looks like good compression, new spark plug, new gas...... engine still won't start. What would you do next??
Did that, not a pop, even sprayed some carb cleaner down the spark plug hole, nothin. The spark is good, I took the head off, I am thinking that maybe the valves are seating well. On the compression stroke you can still twist them with your thumb. I checked the valve clearance, it is good, maybe open a little too much.
The exhaust valve should be able to spin at top dead center as this is the build in compression release. Otherwise the pull start will rip right out of you hand when you try to start it(doesn't feel good). The Exhaust Valve should be non movable/fully closed a little after TDC when it is being forced down after combustion(both will be). As far as starting it with carb clean it only needs an extremely small amount; as quick as you can push the button and no choke. Any more and they are flooded. Is there a noticeable lip in the cylinder bore at the top?
I changed out my points and condenser. I got spark. I'm sure it's set right. Idk just will not fire up. Iv checked it a bunch of times. Dose the kill wire hafe to be hooked up?
@@sixtyfiveford that's the thing I don't have the kill wire hooked up at all it's just the condenser wire and the coil I know I got it hooked up right because it's getting spark but it might be out of time not by much I just don't get it
@@revolution3797The only way it'll go out of time is if you removed/loosened moved the coil. If it's out of time it would still fire and attempt to run. And or it'll fire too early and rip the pull cord out of your hand. Pull the plug and with choke off pull the cord a dozen times to clear any excess fuel in the cylinder. Place 5-6 drops of fuel down the spark plug hole. Insert the plug, still no choke but throttle set to fast. Attempt to start now. You should get it to run for a few seconds if you have good spark and compression.
@@sixtyfiveford gonna post a video of it, that's why the guy sold it because he couldn't get it running. I'm good too,it's a hubby of mine,been doing it for years.
Had no idea how to get the flywheel off. Absolutely great video. Had no spark. Will check points. Is it possible the coil is bad? Any way to test it? Thanks!
It is possible for the coil to go bad, but it is rare. Generally no spark issues are points/condensor related. They are a consumable wear item and should be replaced every 10 years or so. You can test the coil with a multimeter on the ohms settings. I don't recall off the top of my head what the reading is supposed to be. However the easiest way to test it is to make sure you points/condensor are cleaned or new and if you still have no spark you know the coil is faulty.
got an old tecumse just put new points in set got spark will not fire even with start fluid even cleaned carb very odd worked on these alot what could it be baffled it sat awhile valves are moving freely also
Follow up. I found the diagram online for the Tecumseh HMSK100 (159182T) and it does not appear to have points/condenser. Just a coil. Sound right to you?
Jeffery Bryan Yep, it'll be just a coil if it was made in the last 30years. They're great engines. The only advice I have is to run it 100% out of gas at the end of the season. This will ensure that it'll start right up the next season. Also if you want problem free running ethanol free gas is your best friend in any power equipment. The site pure-gas.org shows you local stations that offer this.
R&R npoints but still no spark - saw an other vidio that the tech found magnets broken loose in the flywheel does this fly wheel have magnets (teccumseh motor)
+Georgette Misura The magnets should not be a issue as they are fixed in. Only models with an alternator have numerous magnets. You put new points and condensor or just cleaned them?
this is great, I put one of these Tecumseh 10hp but same kind of points, on my log splitter, it worked for one afternoon now it won't start. The points are shiny, the condenser is rusted and looks original. is there any way to test the condenser or ignition I have a spark at the spark plug ...
Testing the condensor isn't easy, because you need a capacitence tester. Generally points and condensors are replaced together as routine maintenance. If it is rusted, water has gotten in and more than likely the points are corroded as well. Test for weak spark by holding a screwdriver(hold plastic handle) metal shaft around 1/4" away from the engine block, with the tip of the screwdriver inserted into the spark plug lead and you should see spark. This would signify a healthy strong spark.
sixtyfiveford thanks for the quick feedback. is one way easier than the other? best price I can find on nova 2 (or mega fire 2 - similar?) is almost twice as expensive as the points and condenser. do you have any videos installing one?! :)
sixtyfiveford Up and running in almost no time at all! The project gave me a great excuse to buy feeler gauges too. Instead of spending time to rebuild the diaphragm style carb I just picked up a new bowl type on Amazon for $30. Pretty much good as new! Many thanks!
I have a Ariens 8hp 1976 with a TECUMSEN ENGINE. I have no spark to the plug. After seeing your instructions I will attempt to take it apart and check the ignition spark plg and condenser . I do believe that your vidieo will help me Thanks ( Chris Eybergen)
More than likely your points contacts of corroded a little. You can pick up a set of points/condesor very cheap online. On a side note; don't remove the ignition coil, as it is a long process to retime the entire engine.
Adjustment will only be required if it was manually miss-adjusted. I would clean the carb first, then go through the adjustment procedure. Start engine Turn main jet screw(bottom of carb) out (ccw) until hesitation is heard/felt Turn main jet screw inwards(cw) until hesitation is heard felt Note the turns it took to get these two points and set the main jet in the middle, maybe a little on the screwed out side(rich mixture) The idle jet is set the same way, but with the engine idling vs running full rpm. Clean the carb video: ua-cam.com/video/4W9Y3JC1yDY/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I just had a quick question. I have a 1980s Craftsman snow blower (Tecumseh engine model no. 143.687032), very similar to what you worked on in this video (at least the same orientation of magneto). I was wondering if this engine has the ability to produce a little power to run a light on the blower - I know some engines out there have a stator with a lead coming out of the engine so that you can power something like a light. Well, my blower doesn't have a light built-in, but I would like to install one on it - my owner's manual for my blower says in the parts list that it has a stator assembly, but I don't really see an obvious lead coming out of the engine for powering separate electrical components like a light. But since the manual says stator in the parts list, would that somehow work to produce a little power to run a light so that I wouldn't need to install a battery?
If it is a 8 or 10hp there is a chance it has a stator installed, but you will see an obvious loose wire coming out under the electric starter/side opposite the carburetor. It should be protruding approx 3-4inches. It isn't very common to have a stator installed but I've seen it and added lights. If you don't have one, your best bet is to just install a battery operated LED light.
@@sixtyfiveford Thank you very much for your considerations. Yea, my blower is only around 5-6hp and doesn't have an obvious lead coming out of the engine for a light. So as you mentioned (which was my alternate plan), I will get a nice 12 volt battery and led lights to install on the snow blower.
In my past experience with the old points and condenser engines, 9 times out of 10 the points are not burned or wore out. I simply just file them so they mate together good and re-set them at .02 in. Then you should be good to go! I very seldem ever buy new ones.
Back in the day growing up, my Dad taught me just use an old matchbook cover to set the points and although kinda crued, but it works!
This was my first try doing a "comment" it worked!
I had already booked marked your tire flap trick. I'll need to drill my impeller but totally worth it. I'll find the pure"est" gas for my small engines as well. I put together rmy 1032 this weekend and I'll try to post a picture. wish me luck (with the posting a pic, JD should come together fine).
It hard to find a video that teach you as good as this young man does. He tell you all you need to know on changing these points. How to get to everything. Thanks so much. .
Thanks.
Thanks Man. Everything I do is self taught. I just start ripping stuff apart and putting it back together. The trick is to put it back together before you forget how it went.
cell phone camera record before and during disassembly. no memory needed.
thanks for the video. I just replaced my points and condenser in a 1967 Ariens SnoThro thanks to you. Much appreciated!
Hello there,
I received a Craftsman 3.0 (tecumseh h30) from my uncle. It has been quite the fun project so far. Just wanted to say that this has been the most informative video that I have watched so far, and believe me, I have watched about 20.
Thanks so much.
Jeff
I'm glad it helped.
+sixtyfiveford I replaced the magneto, points, and condenser. still a no go. I pour a little gas in the carb and it puffs one or twice. I might need a new carb?
More than likely you have a diaphragm carb and the diaphragm is dried out. ua-cam.com/video/c-dEsc74Lsw/v-deo.html
Hmm. Would you recommend a rebuild or new? I've found new ones for 13 dollars on ebay. Old one has no float new one does though
The diaphragm and float carbs aren't always swap-able.
Appreciate the time and effort to show this on a Tecumseh. I’m going to be getting an old Sears rototiller running again and I never worked on one of these before. Having the part #’s in your description is awesome too.
Good luck!
I have always really liked breaker points and nothing is better than cold videos. Talk to you soon, Moe.
Thanks for the great video. I have a 1970 Fox Street Scamp with a 1969 Tecumseh HS40 with lighting coil. I have been doing a complete rebuild frame and engine. I sent the engine out to be rebuilt and it turned out beautiful. Now I need to change the points condenser and the coil. With your video any fear I had about taking this apart are gone thanks. You did not show how to change the coil. It looks like you where almost there. Thanks again,Matt
mkkmb5 I rarely change a coil as they either work or don't. They don't get weaker over time or anything like that so there's really never a need unlike the condenser and points.
Another tip if your taking something apart that you have never done before.... take pictures with a decent digital camera as you dis-assemble the project. That way you can look at the photos to see "what" went "where" as you re-assemble. It's especially helpful when you the have to wait for special order parts to arrive days or weeks later before you start the re-assemble process. I like using my I-Pad because it has a large screen for viewing and also can take a video if needed?
Thanks for watching. I was just on someone elses channel last night and I saw you won something(something about guessing whats in a box). And I think I saw you win something a couple months back. Congrats. -Moe
Great job on the vid , just like to add if the condenser is weak or bad the points will be burnt out. The condenser controls the voltage being supplied to the points.
Thanks. Your comments are always appreciated. Talk to you soon. -Moe
Great vid easy to follow and informative. I was an ase tech for years just came across this while killing time on here. Id say someone who has basic mechanical skills could does this job by this video good job man. One tip: use a brass punch on the shaft then nothing to worry about.
Hey Thanks.
I am about to change points and condenser on a 1965 Ariens sno thro with a Tecumseh 6 HP . If your machine is like mine, I don't think I will have much trouble. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Yours should be the same. I hope that this helps. Let me know how it goes.
sixtyfiveford Got them changed with no trouble...a little slow but hey it was the first time I did it....Now to figure out how to mount a new carb that has a different choke lever
Most of the time you can just pull out the entire new choke lever and replace it with the old.
Was looking for a video on fixing a old snowblower.
Here you show the very model. I need to fix (no spark). Thank for your time for making this video.
Will subscribe
Thanks for watching!
I'm going to have to do a video of something you don't already know how to do. Thanks for stopping by, -Moe
I never messed with a point before, but now I know what all of those little miscellaneous pieces were that I have been finding occasionally in my grandparent's stuff throughout the years. Old points and condensers. Thanks!
Thanks so much! After watching this I went out and found the points had actually come loose and were always closed. I adjusted them and problem solved!
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.
I really enjoy your videos..Great,great stuff. You do an excellent job of explaining and showing what you are doing. One small caveat is your camera is fizzy on extreme close ups but that's just from a guy whose eyes aren't what they used to be. Awesome job. I have an older Tecumseh H60 that someone told me to pull the top of the head off and after I get to TDC to drop it a quarters width before I set the points. I don't think he really knew what he was talking about. Thanks.
Just bought an Ariens Rocket V tiller. It had no spark, so I tried cleaning the points, checking the coil, condenser, points, etc. Still couldn't get a spark, so I went back into it today. I noticed that there were 2 small wires coming off of the back of the coil and both of them were connected to the condensor. It was shorting itself out, and the longer wire should have been connected to the points. Glad I pulled the coil and everything off to check the coil today, and look for corrosion betweent the engine and the coil/points housing. Now I've got spark, tomorrow I'll clean the carb.
Ok, I completed the job on my H50 Toro 1984 Snowthrower. It came out nice. Thanks For the video. John
That's great.
Yeah, I have noticed my camera doesn't like the close-ups. I try to remember not to do them in the videos. His method works just annoying that you have to pop the entire head off and put a new head gasket on when you're done. Thanks for watching and the kind comments. -Moe
Thanks for the help.....great video.....I was going to replace the coil and was surprised to see a points and condenser system when I pulled it....so I got you on you tube to verify.....I am old school.....have points in my boat....and cars I have serviced years ago.....this video is a nice refresher...and also is directly the model of snowblower I am dealing with.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Thanks for taking the time to watch.
-Moe
I'm assuming yours is badged as a Craftsman and that is why your looking at Searspartsdirect. Cross the sears number to Tecumseh and there is a lot of stuff out there. The models with a magneto under the flywheel are adjustable but never go out of timing, unless someone has moved it. I do have all the specs to do it for standard Tecumsehs and I don't think because it is in a outboard it will make a difference. Do you need that info?
With the rope trick you just have to be careful to keep it out of the way of the valves or they'll bend. Make sure the piston is on the compression stroke.
Very nice explanation and video. You really did it right and I appreciate someone who does it right and is willing to explain it
Be careful when tightening down the nut that holds on the condenser wire because it can twist the spring on the points down so that it comes in contact with the base plate and shorts out the ignition and you won't get spark.
Thank you very much.
If you can find the exact Ohms the coil is supposed to be then you can test it with a multimeter. The trick there is finding out what your values should be. The condensers can be tested with a multimeter that have a capacitance setting. I bought a cheap multimeter just because it had this feature and it is able to tell. Again you need to know what the capacitance is for a give condenser(old name for a capacitor). I think that the spark plug wires attached to a coil begin to go bad.
Kevin, Thanks for watching.
-Moe
You see , great content like this ...that teaches even us older folk is so awesome. To you sir , I say thank you. I did learn something today..I even subscribed! Have a good one..rock out
I appreciate that!
Thanks for watching. Not the same here with 25 degree high days compared to your 80 degree days.
Thanks. Do you just need a stock piston? What is the full model number and I will see what I find with my resources?
Use your model number to view online parts breakdowns (outdoordistributors is a good place). This will give you your part number. Points for Tecumsehs are avaliable at 1000's of online retailers. Ebay will most likely be the cheapest with shipping. It is most likely part number 30547A for points and 30548B for condenser. Let me know how it goes.
34852 (35545A new #) Piston, Pin & Ring Assy. (.010 oversize)
34853 (35546 new #) Piston, Pin & Ring Assy. (.020 oversize)
34854 Ring Set, Piston (Standard) (2-5/8")
There are a few online places that still have the oversized kicking around on their shelf but they are not being made anymore(+-$75). With that said most of these engines wear the rings and the piston bore is still in great shape. I find just a couple second hone and original size rings ($10) and she'll be 95% new.
Excellent tip using the three feeler gauges, you make it look easy. I like changing points on a Kohler k series engine. Three screws and their out!
i have just used 20,000 all my life im 88 now so ihave seen a few as long as they open and close its ok if your point are pitting swap out the condensr you can clean the points and reuse if needed but can the condenser .
I have a Tecumseh HM80 8hp, that had spark this summer as well as a Briggs that has points and had spark. My shed catches a lot of moisture which I need to resolve this spring. But anyway, I sanded the points on the Briggs and the spark came right back, I did it on the Tecumseh twice and still nothing. Ive noticed this in the past too, the Tecumseh's are harder to deal with when it comes to points. What is most likely my issue? I cleaned them and sprayed contact cleaner on all the areas that you can, nothing. I have new points and condensor still in the package, but before I go wasting those what is the most likely thing that caused this or went bad? Should I try cleaning them better? Putting the flywheel and cover back on and than having to take them off again is a pain in the ass...
Generally when I've had issues like this whether Briggs or Tecumseh it has always been the condesor.
@@sixtyfiveford Thank's
Just seen this video. I have a 67 model Tecumseh engine that runs but I want to change the points and condenser. Thanks for showing me how
Those engines run forever.
If you don't have an impact gun you can stick a piece of rope down the spark plug hole to hold the piston so you don't risk damaging the flywheel or the block cooling fins. You can also put a block of wood between the hammer and the crankshaft when you try knocking the flywheel off.
thanks for the video. saved me lots of money on possible parts to be bad. turned out my points were corroded beyond belief. after cleaning, it started on the first pull. thanks again for the video.
That's great. I'm glad the video helped.
Hey thanks for watching and subbing.
-Moe
Thanks for video, just got 1970 ariens snowblower up and running again.
Hello, I have a 10HP Tecumseh with the numbers HMSK100-159168U-6064Q. The Gilson snow blower it is on numbers are 55340-47846. I have kept it going for years by doing the basics.This was a throw away so no manuals. I am not even sure if the spark plug in it it correct. I like to keep it even longer it is an animal in the snow. Any ideas where I can get manuals or the specs? Thanks for any info & this video,another great job!
I don't know what is wrong with my snowblower. It is from the 80's and probably has points. But I do get a spark at the spark plug, so does that mean the points are good or could they still be bad? So far cleaned the carb since it was leaking fuel. Got it back on and now I pull and no ignition. Going to get a can of starter fluid to see if I can at least get it running.
Bad points you'll get a extremely weak spark or no spark at all. Good spark will be nice and bright and jump 1/4 inch gap.
@@sixtyfiveford Thanks for the reply!
I finally got it working today. I took the flywheel off, sanded the points with 400 grit, cleaned them with carb clean and paper, reassembled, had good spark. wouldn't start even with starter fluid, so I pulled off the carb, stuffed a rag into the intake port and soaked it with starter fluid. Fired right up, kept it running with starter fluid for about a minute. Put the carb back on and it fired right up. It just need to blow a few of the cobwebs out with the starter fluid it seems.
that pointy tip on the air hammer sometimes spreads the shaft like car CV axle joints. Really messes up the axle joint. It's soft
I tried finding the appropriate torque for a briggs and stratton engine 250 cc on a 28 deluxe snowblower for the flywheel I torque it about 55 foot pounds is this adequate and safe enough for the flywheel nut coming off...
Which mower is this?
Is that white wire for the kill switch or does it just get grounded on the block
Thanks for watching.
Thank you. Just about to check the points on my Tecumseh rotavator, so your video helped with accessing them.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the video.
Hi- I (had) an 8 hp Ariens Blower. The change for the points etc are not so simple. Points looked nothing like a shown though function surely similar. Timing was to have the points just beginning to open at 90 thousands prior to top dead center. Was quite frustrating to get set properly with an offset cylinder. Dial gauge and patience required. Cheers!.
The fillips screw that holds the point. What size is that?
I know electronic ignition is better but i still like the simplicity of the capacitor and points system, nothing much to go wrong :-)
Smashing ccccold tutorial, as allways :-)
Hope you got yourself back indoors and nice pot of hot coffee on the go :-)
Awesome video, I'm in the process of learning small engine maintenance and repair
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
very nice tutorial on a reliable old system. im curious how bad the contacts were after all those years?
nice video as I was struggling to get the cowling past the gear selector assembly. Where did you get those chains for the roughly 9.5 inch diameter wheels?
I think the part number is "51523" for the tire chains. Google 51523 tire chains and you should find some.
just replaced the points and condensers thanks to your video. I also cleaned and rebuild the card. Got it tuned and running good. but the reason why I done all this is because it would stall out when I would walk with it or throw snow so I thought if I would do what I did. It would work. nope still stalled out on my test runs. any suggestions.
+Justin Mandelko Your main jet is set to lean. It needs more fuel to the engine so screw the main jet out a little.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Talk to you soon.
-Moe
Do you have any idea where I can find a magneto for mine they have been discontinued
Excellent video it's just what I needed to know I thank you for your time and hopefully I'll have good luck with this if not I'll be watching again
Sixyfiveford. Great job!!! I enjoy all your videos. I'm about to do the same on my 1984 Toro snowblower with a H50 engine. I feel a lot better doing it after watching this video. John
Those are great Toros. They never seam to die.
Is it an ESKA?
Question: I have an old Sears/Craftsman snowblower with a 8hp Tecumseh. The plastic fins are almost all broken (although the remaining ones still move some air), and parts are hard to come by. Any ideas on how to fix this?
eBay will have your parts. The plastic shroud simply attaches to the cast iron flywheel.
Great Video!!! have a question on the grounding thou. on the side of the carb, there is a linkage plate with one of the grounding wire attached. the head of it broke off and so I just stripped the casing of the wire and grounded it to a bolt of the engine. Was this not supposed to be constant grounded? I had it running before I did it but it just stopped so I figured it want the aged grounding wire. now I cant get it to run at all. Thanks for any help you can give.
+Edward L It's not supposed to be constant grounded. Any time this wire touches metal on the motor/frame it will kill all spark.
Thanks for the walk through just my speed , . Awesome job .
great vid. You took me back in time on this one. LOL I think I speak for all of us here when I say we appreciate the vids and you do a great job with them. thanks for sharing
good video ! wish i could find an old flywheel for mine as magnet fell off and broke into a few pieces, have called some repair shops and they don't have a flywheel for my hm80-155127f snowbird hate to toss it out!
Ebay will have them. You should be able to pick up a used one for around 30-40bucks (without electric start ring gear) delivered.
Hey Thanks. Yeah, I have done quit a bit of work and old sleds.
HMSK100 Horizontal Mount Snow King 10.0hp .. A king of a motor built on the March 5th 1986 (production for Gilson stopped in 1987).
RJ17LM Champion
A parts diagram can be downloaded at outdoorpowerdistributors com follow the Tecumseh links.
For Gilson info go to gilsonsnowblowers com where a guy has a lot of cool stuff about them
great video, I tried to fire up my 1981 toro 421 snowblower. Had no spark, replaced points and condenser and coil and still have no spark disconnected key switch and the wire going to the points for the manual kill switch and still no spark. Any Ideas? points are at .20 the new plug is .30 used a business card to set the coil to flywheel magnet. Thanks
+Steve Felts Sometimes the engine needs to rotate quit a few times to initially charge the condensor, but I'm sure you've pulled it enough times to do this. I would pull the plug and check spark with the plug out. First I would make sure the kill wire hasn't been pinched under the shroud or that it isn't grounding out somehow as this seams to one of the biggest culprits. Make sure the spark plug lead wire isn't pinched between the housing/block and shorting as well. The points if they are greasy can stop a connection/spark as well. In very rare cases I've heard of weak flywheel magnets. You should be able to hold a screwdriver a 1/2" away and feel a pull.
Steve Felts do not use a bis card or match book use feeler gages
I have a 1974 Tecumseh HM80 and it wasn't running right. I just did the points and condenser but I only get about an 1/8" or 3.5mm max spark length on my Lisle 20700 spark tester. Is this too weak? Do you think I need to change the coil?
The coil either works or it doesn't work. 1/8 of an inch should suffice just fine for these low compression engines.
I have a 40 year old outboard motor with a Tecumseh engine. I don't get a spark across the spark plug when I ground it, but I can feel the slight jolt when I ground the plug and hold it by the top. Replaced coil, condenser and points 10 years ago and barely used the motor since.
I can test the condenser with my electronic meter.
Is it possible my flywheel magnet is too weak to provide a spark?
More than likely the points are tarnished from moisture in the air. Run a fine piece of sandpaper between them and you should be good to go.
Changed the points, condenser, and coil still no spark any idea? Thanks Fred
Make sure the grounding wire isn't touching the frame anywhere. It's best to completely disconnect it from under the carb for testing.
So many people hate Tecumseh engines. I absolutely love them and I've never had a bad one. When buying power equipment, I would only buy them if they HAD a Tecumseh. At one time, 99.99 percent of all snowblowers came with the famous Tecumseh Snow King engine including all of the major manufacturers of quality machines ie: Toro, Ariens, John Deere, MTD, Craftsman; and the list goes on and on. Tecumseh actually MADE Craftsman Lawn Mowers famous. My John Deere 826 is 32 years old and it never misses a beat. Tecumseh; they were the best. Keep the carbs clean, change oil often and at the right level, and they work and work hard. They love it. What are your thoughts?
I'm a big fan of Tecumseh. I think Tecumseh made the easiest to start and best running winter engines ever. I've never had one I couldn't make a single pull start machine even in single digit temperatures. I love their push mower engines but prefer the larger Briggs Engines on Riding mowers.
I agree 100%, especially if its on a snowblower.
Only one thing, the points are harder to deal with than on Tecumseh vs a Briggs.
I'm dealing with it right now.
Ive dealt with it in the past too.
I sanded the points on the Briggs, spark came right back, the Tecumseh no dice and they both had spark in the summer time..
Otherwise their great, even better with electronic ignition.
do you have a video that shows how to replace the engine on a troybuilt junior rototiller???
Sorry but I don't. It should be just 4 bolts holding the motor on and then the pulley.
They were pretty pitted. I actually tried a quick clean and reassembled the motor. It ran a little rough and then the light went off in my head " I should do a video" and replace them.
So could the points be cleaned or should they always be replaced with little or not spark? If so do you just sand down the points?
The majority of the time they just need some very fine sand paper ran across the points contacts.
sixtyfiveford thanks! Keep up the great videos you're definitely an asset to the UA-cam DIY community
what is the part # for toro snow blower 521 with teccumseh fly wheel key or are they all the same
+Georgette Misura There are a few different ones. What's your engine model number?
+sixtyfiveford #'s worn off - it's an old b10 hp
Older machines have it stamped right on the top. If you have electric start, it's directly under the plug in part. Newer machines have a decal on the side of the engine shroud on a permanent decal. I have never seen one worn off. A 521 Toro would be a 5hp 21" snowblower.
Nice video man, but i still have some question... If you have to set the entire coil where the 2 big screw that holds the entire thing to the engine , where would be the right point to set it up? I had to remove everything to replace the seal , i made marks to put back together but it never started after that.
Leonardo Oliveira It's actually a fairly complicated process to set it back up. But if you put it right back to where you marked it, it will be good. Did you check for spark at the plug?
i did , actually it´s brand new, I replaced all the little parts on the carburetor , new condenser, new bolts for the head, new fuel , gas line, filter , i don´t know what to do anymore
So is there spark?
Thanks again, I like the 3 feeler gauge idea. How dod you set the distance from the mag to the coil?
ug mold It isn't that critical but I slide a business card in between and tighten it up. Then pull out the business card and that gives it the proper gap.
sixtyfiveford How do you do that when it is inside the Mag?
Oh I guess since the video is on old Tecumsehs that is what you were referring to. I just gave generic instructions.. The old Tecumsehs are a pain and there is an extensive process if you removed it. Here is the Service Manual, you should need page 68 www.ccdist.com/_serviceManuals/tecumseh/692509.pdf
sixtyfiveford Thanks for the manual, will come in handy. What I did was loosened it thinking I was removing the condenser, probably didn't move. I filed off the pitted points and thru it back together and I have spark. Thanks again.
I've been lucky and only removed 1. I was able to see exactly where the marks of the bolts were and set it right back. It ran good so I've never went through the process.
This is all great, but what do you do when the 8HP horizontal (generator) engine has no nameplate/model number anywhere (there is nameplate for the generator, but that says nothing about the engine), and dealers claim magneto/point replacements "do not exist"? My magneto has 3 legs, and it is set inside a hollow flywheel (with inward-facing magnets). If I could get parts lists/diagrams from a group of engines, I could have a prayer of finding replacement parts! There are also electronic replacements for points/condenser that I would like to get for my engine.
What brand of engine is it?
@@sixtyfiveford Tecumseh. I know it is 8HP, horizontal crankshaft, driving 4KW generator.
@@bpark10001 Engine ID is stamped on the very top of the pull start air shroud. It should be a hm80. Manufactures like to bolt stuff over this stamping. If it was made after the mid 80's there are no points.
Just saw this one. The engine is just like this one and the blower too, except mine is an 8/26. It has the inside coil, soo, is it possible to convert this engine to electronic ignition?? How do you know if your points and condenser need to be changed? Mine looks like original. The I/2 moon pin or as we call it here (wood rift)pin in the crank is bent just a little, is this enough to put it off timing and make it backfire through the muffler. Thanks ever so much for your help and advice.
+W. Gator Yes you can convert it to electronic ignition. It costs under 15 bucks. You'll need what is called a "Nova 2" amzn.to/1OT27ik
+sixtyfiveford Looked it up, "Nova2", it is just not worth the effort. We got some snow here, then it turned off to freezing rain. So, I have been working on the blower, set the points, fire is good, installed a brand new, never used carb, checked the valve gaps, they are perfect, looks like good compression, new spark plug, new gas...... engine still won't start. What would you do next??
Squirt a little gas into the carb and see if you can get it to pop/sputter or anything that resembles starting.
Did that, not a pop, even sprayed some carb cleaner down the spark plug hole, nothin. The spark is good, I took the head off, I am thinking that maybe the valves are seating well. On the compression stroke you can still twist them with your thumb. I checked the valve clearance, it is good, maybe open a little too much.
The exhaust valve should be able to spin at top dead center as this is the build in compression release. Otherwise the pull start will rip right out of you hand when you try to start it(doesn't feel good). The Exhaust Valve should be non movable/fully closed a little after TDC when it is being forced down after combustion(both will be). As far as starting it with carb clean it only needs an extremely small amount; as quick as you can push the button and no choke. Any more and they are flooded. Is there a noticeable lip in the cylinder bore at the top?
I changed out my points and condenser. I got spark. I'm sure it's set right. Idk just will not fire up. Iv checked it a bunch of times. Dose the kill wire hafe to be hooked up?
The kill wire shouldn't be touching any metal. If it does it'll ground out the spark.
@@sixtyfiveford that's the thing I don't have the kill wire hooked up at all it's just the condenser wire and the coil I know I got it hooked up right because it's getting spark but it might be out of time not by much I just don't get it
@@revolution3797The only way it'll go out of time is if you removed/loosened moved the coil. If it's out of time it would still fire and attempt to run. And or it'll fire too early and rip the pull cord out of your hand.
Pull the plug and with choke off pull the cord a dozen times to clear any excess fuel in the cylinder. Place 5-6 drops of fuel down the spark plug hole. Insert the plug, still no choke but throttle set to fast. Attempt to start now. You should get it to run for a few seconds if you have good spark and compression.
@@sixtyfiveford gonna post a video of it, that's why the guy sold it because he couldn't get it running. I'm good too,it's a hubby of mine,been doing it for years.
@@revolution3797 Sure you don't have a valve sticking open?
Had no idea how to get the flywheel off. Absolutely great video. Had no spark. Will check points. Is it possible the coil is bad? Any way to test it? Thanks!
It is possible for the coil to go bad, but it is rare. Generally no spark issues are points/condensor related. They are a consumable wear item and should be replaced every 10 years or so. You can test the coil with a multimeter on the ohms settings. I don't recall off the top of my head what the reading is supposed to be. However the easiest way to test it is to make sure you points/condensor are cleaned or new and if you still have no spark you know the coil is faulty.
Go video,I've learned a lot by watching you, Thank you and keep these videos coming.
Thanks..
got an old tecumse just put new points in set got spark will not fire even with start fluid even cleaned carb very odd worked on these alot what could it be baffled it sat awhile valves are moving freely also
Did the flywheel key get sheared when you reinstalled it?
Follow up. I found the diagram online for the Tecumseh HMSK100 (159182T) and it does not appear to have points/condenser. Just a coil. Sound right to you?
Jeffery Bryan Yep, it'll be just a coil if it was made in the last 30years. They're great engines. The only advice I have is to run it 100% out of gas at the end of the season. This will ensure that it'll start right up the next season. Also if you want problem free running ethanol free gas is your best friend in any power equipment. The site pure-gas.org shows you local stations that offer this.
will the coil off the 5hp work on the 10hp motor? thank you
Off the top of my head. No. There's small and large coils. 2hp-6hp and 7hp-13hp If I recall.
R&R npoints but still no spark - saw an other vidio that the tech found magnets broken loose in the flywheel does this fly wheel have magnets (teccumseh motor)
+Georgette Misura The magnets should not be a issue as they are fixed in. Only models with an alternator have numerous magnets. You put new points and condensor or just cleaned them?
renewed both points & condesor
Make sure the kill wire is not grounding out to anything.
this is great, I put one of these Tecumseh 10hp but same kind of points, on my log splitter, it worked for one afternoon now it won't start. The points are shiny, the condenser is rusted and looks original. is there any way to test the condenser or ignition
I have a spark at the spark plug ...
Testing the condensor isn't easy, because you need a capacitence tester. Generally points and condensors are replaced together as routine maintenance. If it is rusted, water has gotten in and more than likely the points are corroded as well. Test for weak spark by holding a screwdriver(hold plastic handle) metal shaft around 1/4" away from the engine block, with the tip of the screwdriver inserted into the spark plug lead and you should see spark. This would signify a healthy strong spark.
Thanks! Is there anyone on line who you know carries this kind of condenser and points?
Yes, the points and condesor for these are very common and can be found online. If you look in the video description I have a link.
Got a newer hmsk100. No points?
No points of it was made after the early 1980's.
Can the points and condenser be replaced with an electronic ignition module on this engine? Working on a ~1984 Ariens Tiller with H30 engine...
Yes, you can use the Nova 2 electronic module to convert it. It is around 10 bucks and you simply wire up 2 wires without messing with the points.
sixtyfiveford thanks for the quick feedback. is one way easier than the other? best price I can find on nova 2 (or mega fire 2 - similar?) is almost twice as expensive as the points and condenser. do you have any videos installing one?! :)
well, based on how awesome and detailed your video is I decided to go with the points and condenser for ~$10 shipped from Amazon. Thank you!
You'll be happy with it. A new set of points will give you 5-10+ years of service. Let me know how it goes.
sixtyfiveford Up and running in almost no time at all! The project gave me a great excuse to buy feeler gauges too. Instead of spending time to rebuild the diaphragm style carb I just picked up a new bowl type on Amazon for $30. Pretty much good as new! Many thanks!
I have a Ariens 8hp 1976 with a TECUMSEN ENGINE. I have no spark to the plug. After seeing your instructions I will attempt to take it apart and check the ignition spark plg and condenser . I do believe that your vidieo will help me Thanks ( Chris Eybergen)
More than likely your points contacts of corroded a little. You can pick up a set of points/condesor very cheap online. On a side note; don't remove the ignition coil, as it is a long process to retime the entire engine.
I just replaced my coil, set points, I'm getting spark in the wire but no spark on the new plug, any suggestions
+Daniel De Vore You could have a shorted spark plug.
Hi great video, would you know the procedure to adjust the carb. on an 8hp Techumseh ?
Adjustment will only be required if it was manually miss-adjusted. I would clean the carb first, then go through the adjustment procedure.
Start engine
Turn main jet screw(bottom of carb) out (ccw) until hesitation is heard/felt
Turn main jet screw inwards(cw) until hesitation is heard felt
Note the turns it took to get these two points and set the main jet in the middle, maybe a little on the screwed out side(rich mixture)
The idle jet is set the same way, but with the engine idling vs running full rpm.
Clean the carb video: ua-cam.com/video/4W9Y3JC1yDY/v-deo.html
Thanks for the Help. Its much appreciated!
Pictures are always handy.
Thank you! This was helpful for me, being a green horn at small engine work. Much appreciated!
Glenn Martin Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.
This is a really great video , it helped me out a lot , hope you make more, ThankYou!
Hey Thanks.
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I just had a quick question. I have a 1980s Craftsman snow blower (Tecumseh engine model no. 143.687032), very similar to what you worked on in this video (at least the same orientation of magneto). I was wondering if this engine has the ability to produce a little power to run a light on the blower - I know some engines out there have a stator with a lead coming out of the engine so that you can power something like a light. Well, my blower doesn't have a light built-in, but I would like to install one on it - my owner's manual for my blower says in the parts list that it has a stator assembly, but I don't really see an obvious lead coming out of the engine for powering separate electrical components like a light. But since the manual says stator in the parts list, would that somehow work to produce a little power to run a light so that I wouldn't need to install a battery?
If it is a 8 or 10hp there is a chance it has a stator installed, but you will see an obvious loose wire coming out under the electric starter/side opposite the carburetor. It should be protruding approx 3-4inches. It isn't very common to have a stator installed but I've seen it and added lights. If you don't have one, your best bet is to just install a battery operated LED light.
@@sixtyfiveford Thank you very much for your considerations. Yea, my blower is only around 5-6hp and doesn't have an obvious lead coming out of the engine for a light. So as you mentioned (which was my alternate plan), I will get a nice 12 volt battery and led lights to install on the snow blower.