Vintage Small Gas Engine Magneto Ignition: Parts - Operation - Repairs
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- Опубліковано 22 січ 2024
- In today's video, I talk about the vintage small gas engine ignition system - magneto. I also show how to test vintage magnetos and show my vintage condenser tester in action.
Thank You.
Very good video.
I learned some things.
I've been watching you and Mrs.
Obsolete about four years now.👍
Thanks for watching us for such a long time . We appreciate it.
Thank you, very interesting. Looking forward for the low tension episode 👍
✌💚 🏴 🇬🇧
Thanks for watching.
Great informative lesson
Nice to hear from you. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Excellent walk though of the ignition system in small engines. I have a Fairbanks Morse platform scale. I had no idea they made magnetos. I learned something new today, thanks! Your outdoor shop turned out great, good lighting. Your condenser tester is something else with the light and all. Perfect machine for you!
Fairbanks Morse scales were the largest selling scales worldwide. FM was once a powerhouse of industrial manufacturing. They made windmills, scales, pumps ,generators, gas and diesel engines, railroad locomotives, magnetos, and a host of many other products. They had been purchased and sold many times and many product lines sold off over time and all they make today is diesel and gas engines. My winter-quarters is working out well, as I can do many videos on things that I couldn't do during bad weather before. The condenser tester is a nice tool to have in my pile of goodies. Has been very useful, as most of my old equipment has points and condensers in their ignition systems. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I had done some research on Fairbanks Morse when I got the scale, but I forgot just how wide a swath they created in the industrial age. A powerhouse as you said! All the best and thanks again for the great video!
Thank you.
Awesome video I had to watch it twice thank you for all the information and thank you for the video
Great information to keep those motor turning and burning
Thanks 👍
Good job.
Thanks for watching.
My first car was a 65 Buick Skylark and of course it has points. Me and my buddy were out in the middle of nowhere fishing. We got done fishing jump in my car and no start! Checked to see if carb was spitting gas first and it was so next is check spark and no spark! The only thing i could find to file the points was a matchbook Stryker. It worked good enough to get us home!
That's pretty inventive !
I'm the first one to comment without watching the video which I'm going to do right now I'm sure it's gonna be wonderful because I know nothing about magnetos but I am a retired mechanic but we always add points and everything that was in a car and truck And never worked on much for tractors very little
Magnetos and spark plugs changed the world quickly after the turn of the century. Cars, trucks, tractors and engines became commonplace, and industry and transportation made products and services much easier to obtain as a result.
Thank you for sharing you r
Knowledge i always enjoy your videos try to keep warm
Thanks for watching. The weather has warmed up a bunch, so we are all having a nice warm week.
One other thing you need for an engine to run is - compression. On a four cycle gas engine you need about 70# compression, that’s about -5:1. On a two cycle you need a minimum of 90# of compression 1560, that’s about 6-7:1. Technical experts say you do not have to clean the rust from the flywheel and coil to get spark, but I always do. The coil must have a good electrical connection to the block to get spark. Rust can inhibit spark, so I always clean the connectors on the coil and the bolts that hold it on to the block. Dielectric grease on these points inhibits future corrosion. I use 180 grit wet or dry sandpaper to clean pitted points, followed by 440 grit. If they are badly pitted I replace the condenser.
I should have mentioned motors need compression too in my video. Rust on the flywheel and coil faces doesn't stop the mag making electricity, but with clean surfaces the, spark will be the hottest.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I knew you knew, but just forgot it. I have a spark checker that has a glass window in it. If the spark is not blue, I replace the coil. Remember three things about spark - blue is good and red is dead with yellow in between. My spark checker throws a blue lightning bolt across it.
On two cycles, always check the bayonet connector that fits inside the boot. These can become disconnected if you are sloppy removing the boot from the spark plug, as I often do. I now pry the boot off with the blade end of a scrench. Prying them off reduces the chance of the bayonet connector becoming disconnected from the high tension lead. If in doubt.I pull the boot off and reconnect the bayonet connector. It is a PITA but not that hard to do. I was using my MS 241 Stihl one day to trim some stumps down to the ground and I ran out of gas. After filling it up, it would not restart. I must have pulled it several hundred tims without it starting. Forgetting all the diagnosis, the bayonet connector had become disconnected. I put it back on and it started on the first pull.
Most of the time I remove a spark plug boot, I use a special tool that has 2 ears that fit under the boot on both sides and the neck fits up against the side of the boot so one has a straight pull on the boot. I also put a thin wipe of dialectric grease inside the boot so it comes off easy. Some equipment has too close of tolerances to use my tool, so I just pry it off if possible. I always check for looseness on any bayonet connectors on any of my equipment that uses them once a year when I do any major service work.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I just stick the slotted end of the scrench against the end of the boot and pry upwards until the coil connector slips off the end of the spark plug. I also stick a small screwdriver in the end of the boot so it goes in the end of the coiled connector to insure it is in place.. I also put a little dielectric grease on the end of the sparkplug, so it will be easier to get off the next time and so the coiled connector won’t corrode to the sparkplug.
Very helpful video Mr Obsolete.....👍🤙
Thanks.
👍👍