Great information, thank you. I correctly have all LED and incandescent but looking to ease into the pixel world. Is there a controller that will support both traditional AC lighting and pixels, let's say 1-6 props starting out but would support additional pixels over time before adding additional controllers? Thank you.
I don't think there are any that can control both since they are so different, but there are several ways to accomplish this. You can get a pixel controller and then something like a Pixel-2-AC controller or something similar.
I know this review is 1 year old and I hope you still respond to it. I am a rookie at this. if I chose to go with a K16A-B or F16v4 do I still need a raspberry pi or have a dedicated computer to run a program like Xlights? secondly Ive seen a LOT of videos showing build process and never see anyone "tin" their wires or use dielectric compound in their connections. is there a reason? Thank you for your time, great presentation.
This wasn't meant as a review, but more of information on things to consider when choosing a controller. But to answer your questions. To run a show, you need 2 basic components, a controller and a player. The controller is what sends the signals to the pixels on what color to be. The Player is what tells the controller what to play and when. There are 2 players, FPP and xSchedule. FPP typically requires a Pi or BeagleBone computer, and xSchedule require a regular computer. Some controllers actually have player capabilities. Any FPP based controller will have full player capabilities, so any Kulp controller will have full player capabilities, The Falcon line of controllers do have a limited player capability, but in my opinion it is too limited for most use cases. Tinning wires is just one method and some people use tinned and some don't (some will even use ferrules). Most wire connectors support tinned and un-tinned wires and I have used both without any problems. But one thing to consider when using tinned wires is that it is often difficult to tighten them sufficiently. So, if you do used tinned wires, it is best to re-tighten them after they have been in use for a while. When they are in use, the wires will warm up and soften the solder and the connection can become loose. There are quite a few people that use dielectric compound on their outdoor connections but rarely on the controller connections. This is purely a personal preference. I do not use dielectric compound on my pixel connections. Thanks
So if I wanted to run only a megatree, singing tree, 4 archers, a smaller matrix, and pixels on my roofline in your opinion would an f16 local port do it?
It would depend on where you want the controller, where each item is located and your plans for expansion. (Are the trees on the roof? Is the Matrix on the opposite side of your house? etc.) It is totally personal preference. Depending on your layout, I would consider 2 F8's instead of an F16. (One F8 with a couple Smart Receivers would probably be more than enough for the show you described.
So he called out Runza ummmmmm so that Means Nebraska. Nice to be supporting a fellow Nebraskan, Great Vids
Great information, thank you. I correctly have all LED and incandescent but looking to ease into the pixel world. Is there a controller that will support both traditional AC lighting and pixels, let's say 1-6 props starting out but would support additional pixels over time before adding additional controllers? Thank you.
I don't think there are any that can control both since they are so different, but there are several ways to accomplish this. You can get a pixel controller and then something like a Pixel-2-AC controller or something similar.
I know this review is 1 year old and I hope you still respond to it. I am a rookie at this. if I chose to go with a K16A-B or F16v4 do I still need a raspberry pi or have a dedicated computer to run a program like Xlights? secondly Ive seen a LOT of videos showing build process and never see anyone "tin" their wires or use dielectric compound in their connections. is there a reason? Thank you for your time, great presentation.
This wasn't meant as a review, but more of information on things to consider when choosing a controller. But to answer your questions.
To run a show, you need 2 basic components, a controller and a player. The controller is what sends the signals to the pixels on what color to be. The Player is what tells the controller what to play and when. There are 2 players, FPP and xSchedule. FPP typically requires a Pi or BeagleBone computer, and xSchedule require a regular computer. Some controllers actually have player capabilities. Any FPP based controller will have full player capabilities, so any Kulp controller will have full player capabilities, The Falcon line of controllers do have a limited player capability, but in my opinion it is too limited for most use cases.
Tinning wires is just one method and some people use tinned and some don't (some will even use ferrules). Most wire connectors support tinned and un-tinned wires and I have used both without any problems. But one thing to consider when using tinned wires is that it is often difficult to tighten them sufficiently. So, if you do used tinned wires, it is best to re-tighten them after they have been in use for a while. When they are in use, the wires will warm up and soften the solder and the connection can become loose.
There are quite a few people that use dielectric compound on their outdoor connections but rarely on the controller connections. This is purely a personal preference. I do not use dielectric compound on my pixel connections.
Thanks
thank you very great information
I am glad it helped!
So if I wanted to run only a megatree, singing tree, 4 archers, a smaller matrix, and pixels on my roofline in your opinion would an f16 local port do it?
Roofline would only be 75-100 pixels, and no device would be more than 25ft away
It would depend on where you want the controller, where each item is located and your plans for expansion. (Are the trees on the roof? Is the Matrix on the opposite side of your house? etc.) It is totally personal preference. Depending on your layout, I would consider 2 F8's instead of an F16. (One F8 with a couple Smart Receivers would probably be more than enough for the show you described.