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How To - Setup CG1500 Pixel Controller Builds (for Differential Receivers)
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2024
- In this video, I review a general use CG1500 pixel controller build for differential receivers, including all the parts, tips and tricks of this setup, power needs, and four example use cases.
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Timeline:
00:00 Intro
00:52 Build Components
04:12 Review of CG1500 Build
04:31 Overview of Exterior
06:17 Overview of Interior
08:08 Overview of Electronics Area
10:44 Tips on Adding Vents
11:31 Why 2 Power Supplies?
12:27 Build Versatility
12:44 Use Cases - Vine Lights
13:18 Use Cases - Ni Family Lights
14:13 Conclusion
Music Credit:
Better by Anno Domini Beats
Component Parts Shown:
As of early 2022, the production of the CG-1500 was discontinued. However, there are other options for cases similar in size. The internal dimensions of the CG-1500 was 9.75' x 9.75' x 4.5' (H).
The BUD NBF-32026 has internal dimensions of 15-1/8" x 11-1/64" x 5-61/64" (H). amzn.to/3AdLrRk
The BUD NBF-32022 has internal dimensions of 12-63/64" x 9-3/64" x 5-39/64" (H). amzn.to/3TDsFtz
The MTM ACR-18 Ammo Crate has internal dimensions of 13" x 9" x 4.8"(H). amzn.to/3UVlIFj
2 Power Supplies - 360W Each
12V
amzn.to/3tqbMbf
Or
5V
amzn.to/3hIzzAk
Falcon Differential Receiver
www.pixelcontr...
Falcon Power Distro Board
www.pixelcontr...
Auto Inline Fuses
amzn.to/3y6axRp
RJ45 Waterproof Connectors (Set of 3)
amzn.to/3OrSt9H
Refrigerator Ice Maker Tubing
amzn.to/3QBrDhl
Step Drill Bits
amzn.to/3ObF3im
Spade Connectors (for 14-16 awg wire)
amzn.to/3N8z9NK
Zip Tie Adhesive Mounts
amzn.to/3Qytjbn
3mm Screws (8mm long)
www.boltdepot....
3mm Screws (12mm long)
www.boltdepot....
3mm Screws (16mm long)
www.boltdepot....
3mm K-Lock Nuts
www.boltdepot....
4mm Screws (8mm)
www.boltdepot....
Wago Lever Nut Set
amzn.to/3n4Oi8d
Hose Clamps
amzn.to/3na3TDm
Pixel Strip
boscoyostudio....
12V Brushless Fan
amzn.to/3HFDbfw
Window Screening
www.homedepot....
Lexan Plate
www.homedepot....
2 Bud IPV-1115 Vents
www.digikey.co...
PG7 Cable Glands
amzn.to/39BOAR6
Cat 6 Network Cable 2 ft Right Angle
amzn.to/3y9m7Ly
![Beolab 5 - Steve explains how to connect B&O's finest classic speaker to absolutely ANYTHING! [4K]](/img/n.gif)
This is great. I love the detail where you talk about every screw size and use a tape measure to show location.
I wish I had come across this before I built my box. Now I have to make some changes. The Falcon Differential Receiver seems very similar to the QuinLED-Dig-Quad, each port/channel can power about 550 LEDs. I am also working on a QuinLED-Dig-Octa that I working on. I like the idea of having a separate power supply for power injections. Will have to check out some more of your videos, GREAT JOB!
Steve, yours was the first video I found about building controllers so I started in building two CG-1500's last year. I am STILL buying pieces to complete these after months and months. Starting this hobby from ZERO has cost a small fortune, but I go to your videos everytime I need not only instruction, but inspiration as well! The lack of availabilty of the Falcon Controllers has been very frustrating, and to this day, over a year later I cannot find even one! My boxes look exactly like your boxes...hooray! Still trying to figure out power Injection points but I'll get there. Between you, and Jeff at Canispater Christmas I WILL prevail.
After literally 300 videos of research, I can honestly say you are the master!
Nice build, Steve. I've watched most of the build videos you have and really appreciate the time you spent on the engineering and running the calculations. Thanks for taking the time. It's been a huge help!
Thank you for everything! I’ve learned so much and have gotten so many ideas through your videos. I wouldn’t be as far along as I am without the help of you and others like you. Great Job and keep the videos coming!
Thanks for making it all so understandable. Great video!
Great job Steve! Very neat and clean!
Thanks for the parts breakdown and links.
Ed
Thank you.
I can't even begin to thank you enough for your well informed and detailed videos where clearly content is king. This will be my first year away from traditional string lights and your content continues to help ease the worry with every purchase I make but I have an easy question. I am still a little worrisome about power injection because of how expensive all this is and the fear of shorting out 1k dollars of lights is very scary to me but I am sure I will watch your power injection videos at least another 20 times before I event attempt my first one. Thanks again and I look forward to seeing my Christmas display evolve even further then it ever has in the past.
Thanks for the comment, and I’m glad to hear the videos have been helpful for you. I do try to explain as much detail as possible so you gain an understanding of the why things work the way they do more so than to copy how I do things.
Congratulations on diving into the world of pixels. It’s a lot of fun and the planning and execution will challenge your mind (in a good way). Do continue checking out the various videos, as I cover material from different angles. For power injection, the safest thing to be mindful of is to connect V+ to V+ and GND (or V-) to GND. If you do that, you can’t go wrong. ;)
@@NiFamilyLights question about design. Have you ever attempted to move your air intake to the bottom of the enclosure so you could free up a portion of the bottom plate? I was thinking two receivers on top and a distributor on the bottom middle (where the air in is currently located) so I could have 8 ports and 8 power injections out. Thoughts and/or concerns. Obviously I wouldn’t be able to have individual pigtail holes would be one but any others from your experience?
@The Taternator, I don't think there's enough room to drill a circular hole large enough to mount the air intake bud vent. That said, you could just drill some holes or cut out a slot (and cover it with the screening material to keep bugs out). That would certainly work, which would give you more space on the bottom of the door plate to mount more electronics. Great idea!
@@NiFamilyLights Agreed that the ipv1115 vent would be a no go but I found a similar but smaller version called the AMVENTSM vent which should fit the tight space. If it were you and you were to ever wire a pair of receivers and a distributor board to two ps’s how would you do it? Two receivers to one and the distro board to the other and keep both ps’s in parallel like you do in your current build? Thanks.
@The Tatenator, that looks like a good option. As to your PS question...since each diff board has 4 outputs, two boards would have 8 outputs. Most power distro boards also have 8 outputs. So, as you wrote, I would connect 2 receiver boards to one power supply and the power distro board to the second power supply.
awesome video!
Super helpful thank you.
Just a shout out - thanks so much for all your awesome content! I have watched many of your vids multiple times and they have really helped with the learning curve. I might have missed it, but do you have a link for the pigtails you used coming out of the control box? Thanks.
Joel, thanks for the shout out! For the pigtails, I got those from the same vendor that I purchased my pixels from. You can order those from most any vendor. Just be sure to specify the connector you need, most common these days is XConnect or Ray Wu style connector ends.
One of, if not the nicest builds I’ve seen yet. My question is, how to you have the online fuses wired in and of course the controller boards are wired through that?
Thanks Brian. The auto fuse is connected on one side to the 12V (V+) power supply output. The other end is connected to the 12V wire than goes straight to the 12V (V+) input of one of the electronics boards.
The same goes for the second power supply going to the second electronics board input.
Steve- Do you know what the temperature range is for the hardware? Can the power supply and boards handle an unconditioned attic in the summer? Potentially up to 130 degrees during the day? Most of my lights will be on the upper roof line and it would be much more convenient to have the hardware in the attic as opposed to a ground level garage.
@Spencer Steinmann, that's an interesting question. Typical commercial electronics are typically rated to handle up to 70 degrees C (or 158 degrees F). So, the electronics may be just fine up there if your attic gets up to 130 degrees F. Depending on the boards, you may want to check with the supplier to determine the tested environmental ratings.
I checked 12V 350W Meanwell power supplies and those are rated for up to 70 degrees C. The generic power supplies didn't have any operating temperatures stated, but those may be similar in what they can handle.
Sorry I can't be more assuring, but I think you'd be ok. I've had commercial Unifi POE switches in my attic (that run hot on their own), and they ran just fine for several years up in the attic (recently moved into a more hospitable environmental).
Wow, this is a very thorough guide. Im so lost where to start with my controller box until I came across this video. Power injection is so difficult for me to understand. I ordered a falcon distro board but I have no idea what pigtail to use. I ordered Xconnect pixels and I am about to order 3-2-3 xconnect power Tee connectors. Not sure what kind of wire should i run between the pigtail to the Tee connector. Would appreciate any advise you can extend.
Randy, thanks for the comment, and I’m glad these videos are helping you out. For power injection, it sounds like you’ve ordered all the right parts. I also use similar power injection Ts, if you watch the video posted titles “How to Chain Pixel Props Like a Champ”.
For the power distro board, you should get 2 wire pigtails and get some 2 wire pre-made extensions to connect to the 2 pin power injection T. My power injection T has 3 pins and is wired a certain way. So, I use standard 3 wire pigtails and 3 wire pre-made 10’ extensions, knowing that only 2 of the 3 wires are being used for power injection to the T.
Be sure to check the pins so that you know which pins should be used for V+ and and GND. You definitely don’t want to get those crossed. If you do, the 5A fuse will blow very quickly. So, have a number of extra mini ATC fuses on hand. Good luck.
Hi Steve , thank you for all the advice, I got all the wires you mentioned. I also bought the same type of rj45 connector but Im not sure if this is waterproof. There's no gland that covers the connection outside the box. Is this safe to use when it's raining? It says it is not waterproof without the dust cap.
Randy, you're welcome. The RJ45 connectors I use are not "waterproof", but they should work just fine as long as you have them pointing down or covered in some other way. Mine are exposed (not covered) and pointing down (as shown in this build) so water doesn't run along the wires towards the connector. It's been fine like that for 5 years at my house and 4 years at the church show.
There are waterproof connectors that cover the external side. Those are used commonly with outdoor POE cameras.
thanks Steve. If it worked for you the last 5 years it should be fine.
@@randybaron5190 you can also use some dielectric grease around the RJ45 plug when you insert it. that will keep water out as well. but as steve said, as long as its pointing down you should be a-ok.
Can you tell me where to source the longer pigtails? The ones I have tried have all been under 12 inches, which is just too short.
@framptonesq The pigtails shown are about 18” long. I got these from the vendor where I sourced my pixels. These were standard lengths, as I didn’t need to request a custom length. You should be able to get pigtails from most any pixel vendor, and you can check that they are at least 16” or 18” long.
Does anyone have a diagram of how the power lines are connected? I'm lost after the power line goes into the box and connected to the first power supply?
@MHL1528 more detailed wiring is shown in Part II of this video. Here’s a link to it. m.ua-cam.com/video/fAshyehnWyE/v-deo.html
Another excellent video Steve! I have a question for you regarding the difference between the CG1500 Pixel controller boxes in this video and the Falcon F16V3 controller boxes in a previous video? And what are the total amount of controller boxes you are running in your display? Are you using just the two CG1500 boxes? or are you using a combination of the CG1500 boxes and Falcon F16V3 boxes too? From this video it seems like the CG1500 controller boxes are powering a total of 2570 pixels but it looks like your show has more pixels than that? I assume that the Mega Tree has its own controller box too?
Sorry for all the questions, but I am trying to figure out what I will need to build/purchase for my holiday light display for 2022.
Thanks in advance!
Ryan, good questions. I have one F16V3 in the ammo crate controller box with one differential expansion board. I have a second ammo crate controller build with two smart receivers that is used with the megatree. There’s a CG1500 controller box with a receiver on the porch roof, and there’s a second CG1500 controller box with a receiver on the yard.
That’s the full controller breakdown and setup for my entire show. The F16 breakdown build video shows what the two ammo box builds look like. And this video shows what the 2 CG1500 builds look like, as they are both identical.
This is my first year requiring power injection. I've purchased everything for this build and have a few questions if anyone can help:
1. I'm using a Falcon F16v3. Do I need an expansion board if only using a single Differential Receiver...or can I run a cat5 from the F16v3 directly to the Receiver?
2. What GA wire connects the AC inputs between the 2 power supplies? Then I also have to connect the 12V grounds together on the power supply as well? With the same GA wire?
3. What GA wire connects the power supply to the Distro Board/Differential Receiver?
I apologize for what are probably very lame questions! Thanks for your help.
BMac, those are all good questions. Congrats on getting a F16v3 board. It’s a solid controller that will let you grow your show for years to come.
1) If you’re using a single differential receiver, you do not need a differential expansion board. You can run a network cable from one of the serial ports directly to the differential receiver board.
2 and 3) The wire gauge on the AC side can 16 or 18 AWG. For the DC side, I recommend using 10 or 12 AWG wire to connect V+ and GND to the power input of the F16v3. You can use the same 10 or 12 AWG wire to connect the DC grounds of the power supply together. You actually won’t need to do that since both sides of the F16v3 grounds are already bonded together.
Welcome to the hobby and enjoy the ride.
@@NiFamilyLights I really can't thank you enough! Your videos are remarkably helpful and thorough! Thanks for your help.
Hi what size fuse do you use from the controller to the power supply , would the ethernet plug to the box once adding an ethernet cable not get wet ?
@Chris wren, the fuses I use between the controller electronics and power supply are 20A.
Regarding the Ethernet plug, I set these boxes up vertically. So, they are at the bottom of the enclosure facing down. I’ve not had any water issues with them with 6 years of use. If you are concerned, you can add a piece of plastic from a trash bag or something else and tape it to the enclosure to “shield” the interface.
@@NiFamilyLights Thanks for getting back to me on this it helps out a lot thanks again .
Was there any mention of where to purchase the 14-16 awg wire needed for the power supplies? I haven't started building but wanted to make sure I had everything available before I started
@Charles C, you can purchase the wire from any local home improvement store or from an online store such as Amazon. Just be sure to order pure copper wire for the best performance.
on video "Falcon F16V3 Ammo Box Build Breakdown" do you have a break down on how you connected the power supplies and fuses?
Yes, that section starts at 18:12.
@@NiFamilyLights thanks so much for answering. I saw you video and thought this is what I was looking for so I ordered everything you had shown. I saw the time frame you mentioned but I am not able to see how you connected the fuses to the power supply and how the board are connect. I hope am explaining myself.
@@gerard2056 Apologies, I was referencing a timestamp of the Ammo Box Breakdown build that shows how those power supplies are connected to fuses and the electronics.
For the CG1500 build, the auto fuses come with the wiring looped. Just cut the loop in the middle. For one end, crimp a spade connector and attach it to the V+ screw terminal of the power supply. For the other end, it goes to the WAGO lever nut. From the WAGO lever nut, run a wire to the V+ of your Diff Receiver or Power Distro Board.
@@NiFamilyLights Thanks I will try it tonight. I hope I can keep reaching out to you for help. I am new to this and I was to get it right.
Why did you drop the volt/amp meter?
There is anyway to add a temp sensor for the fan . So that way the fan doesn’t run all time just when need it . I want to do this for permanent installation.
Absolutely! There are a number of thermostat sensor/control products to do that. You'll need to connect the power to the thermostat and then connect the fan to the thermostat. Just be sure the thermostat can be powered by the appropriate voltage of your power supply.
So very grateful for your vids!
It seems that the
CG-1500 Box is no longer available anywhere.
Got alternatives?
@Graph Guy, I looked as well. It appears that the CG-1500 was discontinued earlier this year. That's too bad given it's versatility.
However, there are other options for cases similar in size. The internal dimensions of the CG-1500 was 9.75' x 9.75' x 4.5' (H).
The BUD NBF-32026 has internal dimensions of 15-1/8" x 11-1/64" x 5-61/64" (H). amzn.to/3AdLrRk
The BUD NBF-32022 has internal dimensions of 12-63/64" x 9-3/64" x 5-39/64" (H). amzn.to/3TDsFtz
The MTM ACR-18 Ammo Crate has internal dimensions of 13" x 9" x 4.8"(H). amzn.to/3UVlIFj
Hopefully you're able to find something that works for you.
Hi How did you cut the Clear Polycarbonate?
Hi Derek, if you score the polycarbonate with a utility knife, you can get it to the point where you can bend and break it. For areas that are cut out, I pre-scored, then drilled holes. After drilling holes in the corners of the cut out area. Then I grabbed pieces with pliers to bend and break sections. For circular holes, I used a hole saw to cut those.
Hello
Thank you for your videos they are very helpful. I an using the same set up my question is, I've read if you are using two power supplies you should separate the V+. In this box you have a separate power supply to the smart receiver and a separate supply for the F8, how are you separating the power?
Thank you
Hi Bruce. I’m not sure I understand your question. The V+ power is separate between the receiver board and the power distro board since each one is powered by their own power supply. When I power inject, the power injection Ts break V+ to maintain V+ isolation.
What size wire are you using for power injection.? And how far is your furthest power injection run ?
Thank you
@John Nagy, coming off these boxes, I’m using pre-made 10’ pixel extension wires. At best, the wire gauge is effectively 22AWG (although advertised as 18AWG). Runs range between 10’ to 30’ for most power injection that I do off these boxes, or 1-3 of those pre-made extension cables linked together.
Note, all of my props are wired to balance power from the first to the last pixel of each prop.
@@NiFamilyLights Thank you so much for the information. So many different ways people are doing it. Lol
@@NiFamilyLights I have another question. You have two power supplies in your set up. How do you power inject from 2 different supplies?
Thank you. Would love to see your actual displays as well. I have no doubt they are spectacular
@John Nagy To power inject from different power supplies, there's no difference with the wiring from the box to any power injection point. Within the box, be sure to jumper the V- (GND) between the two power supplies. This will ensure the V- (GND) is the same between the power supplies as to not cause data corruption of pixel data when power injecting.
And, if you're ever in the area, please do stop by. As you know, the pixels look much better in person than in a recording!
again, Great work Steve ...How much pixels 1 smart receiver can control ( isn't it 1024 max ? )? @ 13.18 video timeline, you mentioned 1638 pixels . are you using smart configuration with multiple smart receiver board?
will air circulation fan draw moisture while running show in Canadian snow weather ?
thanks again for wonderful videos ...! Good Luck ..!
J Patel, the number of pixels a smart receiver can control is based on the division of pixels from the main Falcon F16 controller (or F48). The F16v3 has 16 built in outputs, each capable of handling 1,024 pixels per output. Once you add one differential expansion board (supporting up to 4 differential receivers (or smart receiver chains)) -- each receiver has 4 outputs totaling 16 in addition to the original 16, you need to divide up the 1,024 pixels per output in half. You can adjust this division in the Falcon configuration.
Assuming you divide the number of pixels per output in half (1,024 for 16 outputs), that's 512 pixels per output across 32 outputs. Remember, each smart receiver has 4 outputs, so that puts the total number of pixels per smart receiver at 2,048 pixels. In my show, my setup is basically a F16v3 with one diff expansion board. I divide the pixels per output in half as written above. So, as long as you are able to provide enough power for your pixels, each smart receiver can easily handle lots of pixels (1,638 in my case).
If you have an F16v3 with 2 expansion boards, that essentially gives you 16 x 3 outputs or 48 outputs. This is essentially the same as an F48. You'll now have up to divide the 1,024 pixels per output (for 16) by 3, or about 340 pixels per outputs (for 48 outputs). There are sliders in the configuration to tweak this, but 340 is a good starting point. Using 340 per output, a smart receiver with 4 outputs could handle 1,360 pixels (340 x 4).
Hopefully this explanation helps you out.
Steve @@NiFamilyLights, thanks Steve, once again great explanation! I watched all of your videos and still keep watching. I don't have words to express gratitude for great work of knowledge sharing you are doing. GOD BLESS YOU & EVERYONE else. I will seek your help as I am setting up my first show with F48 differential receiver with few smart receiver boards.i am not planning to go heavy at beginning & started ordering stuff and building some. Thanks again Steve.
Question: Where did you purchase those Vent Cover? And how did the vent with screen mounted?
All of the items in the build are in the description below including links to places where they can be purchased. The IPV-1115 Bud Industries vents are available at digikey. There are likely other places you can get them.
In the video, I show the hole saw kit used to drill through the box to mount the vents. Check out the section at 10:44.
@@NiFamilyLights Tenx Ni.
Question: How do you power inject in the middle of string if you do not have those power injection cable.?
If you don’t have power injection Tees, you can make your own wiring connections. Check out this video at 33 min 57 sec where I draw out how the Tees work internally. m.ua-cam.com/video/Zb_c_tNSt90/v-deo.html
What gauge AC power line are you using, 16 or 18?
The AC wire I used connecting the two power supplies is solid core 12 AWG wiring. It’s stiff, so once bent to the desired shape, it stays put.
Did you connect the positives on your distro. board with the 2nd PSU?
The power distro board (electronic board on the left) is powered by “PS1”, which is the upper power supply. The differential receiver board (electronic board on the right) is powered by “PS2”, the lower power supply.
The positives on the distro board are internally connected to the V+ input. So, no additional wiring is needed.
@@NiFamilyLights Thabk you. Just to clarify, when you say internally connected, you mean directly to the PS1 supply? I thought when using a second PSU to PI, you had to leave the positive connections off because the PS2 has the positive connected to the pixels. Am I correct? Or did you wire the V+ from the connectors because both PSU’s are connected together and not independent?
What I mean by internally connected is, within the circuit board itself, all V+ for the power distro outputs are connected to the single V+ terminal coming from the power supply.
You are correct, do NOT connect the V+ from two power supplies to a single power distro board V+ terminal. Also, do NOT connect the V+ between two power supplies, unless they are specifically designed to allow that (which most of them are not).
@@NiFamilyLights perfect. Thank you. So, your 2nd power supply is connected to your first with the ground and neutral wires only? I wanted to add, you power inject cables are not connected with the positive terminal on the ports right? Only the ground?
I believe you found the Part 2 of this video series which shows how everything is wired up. Posting here so others who find this comment know there's a Part 2. ua-cam.com/video/fAshyehnWyE/v-deo.html
Great video Steve thanks. It looks like you chose to have Male pigtails connected to controller (pins exposed). Where do you convert to connect your first prop? If you have an extension plugging female into your pigtail won't you have Male/Male on the other end? I'm still learning so info is helpful thanks.
...or is the end with the Pins exposed NOT the Male for xconnectors?
Thanks MotoMerica. All the pigtails coming from the controller and power distro boards have female ends. That way the male pigtail end of the pixels can plug right in.
I was just wondering if you would be able to help? I am trying to do my research off of youtube to do this for the first time. Not trying to go huge for the first try just maybe some arches and a mega tree... could you walk me through what I would need?
Joshua, welcome to the hobby. You can hit me up on FB messenger.
Can i get the link for the fan and the extractor caps
Melvin, see the links in the video description. I believe what you are looking for are there.
I found the link thanks
Wait wait wait. This would save me SO much headache. Can you run two Meanwell 350w 12v Power Supplies off one power cable???
Kenneth, if you are referring to using one AC power cord to power two Meanwell 350W power supplies, absolutely! You just need to be mindful of how many power supplies in total you are running off a single 15A 110V AC circuit and ensuring you're using a good quality extension cord (typically 18 or 16 AWG). Assuming you max out the 350W power supplies, two together would use 6.4A of the 15A circuit. But, it's highly unlikely that you'll push the power supplies that hard.
@@NiFamilyLights I also didn't realize I could do this. Your CG-1500 builds are very clean and I want to set up the PSU side the same as you have yours. Any chance you could share a more detailed picture of the wiring on the PSU side showing how you have the PSUs powered with one 110 plug and the in/outs of the wago connectors. It's hard to see what's going on in the vid. Or maybe you have a wiring schematic? Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Joel, thanks. I'll try to make a vid with some wiring diagrams of the internal wiring of these builds. In the meantime, the AC pigtail comes in and goes to the lower power supply. Still on the AC side, I connected the lower power supply to the upper power supply by making a jumper cable, connecting GND to GND, N to N, and Line to Line (aka Hot to Hot).
On the DC side, I made a jumper and connected GND to GND, bonding the DC grounds together which will be important if you're doing power injection. The V+ for each power supply has an inline fuse which then goes to one of the electronic components. The corresponding DC GND also goes to the same electronic components.
Last, I connected the 12V brushless fan to the power and ground connections from one of the electronic components. The fan stays on all the time when the box is powered.
@@NiFamilyLights Your post above made sense, but I also watched your new video. Totally clear now. So fantastic that you take the time to help individuals, like myself, who are new to the hobby by answering questions and showing detailed step-by-step videos.
How to buy your lights sir?
I currently don’t sell any products, just information here on UA-cam.
Do you have any available for sale?
Sorry, no, I don’t sell any products. This channel is devoted to helping others with their DIY projects. However, CCLights.com does build and sell finished controllers to your specs. So, check them out.
Nice build,I need one ,if you want to sell it,let me know(just one)
Thanks but sorry. My builds are not for sale. :)
@@NiFamilyLights np thanks