Corolla Prizm Blower Motor Resistor Replacement
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Corolla Prizm Blower Motor Resistor Replacement
Disclaimer:
This video is not meant to be a definitive how to.Always consult a professional repair manual before starting your repair.I am not responsible for any problems that you might incur by watching or following this video.Follow at your own risk.
You have to love how easy it is to replace the blower motor itself on these cars too.
(now if only it were so easy to get at the evaporator)
I guess I'm going to do this repair very soon on my 2002 Prizm base model. My heat only works on high. I'm grateful it works at all, but it's just too intense on high all the time. I did, however, find another video that showed you don't have to take the glove box off. You just have to lay down in the floor and look straight up under the glove box to see the resistor and get at it.
Did changing the resistor fix your issue?
@@turbolegend3976 Yes, it did. It was so easy to do and now I have all my fan speeds.
@@SalandFindles just did mine as well, works great!
@@SalandFindlesdid you do it without the glove box removed? And was it worth the time saved or should I get full access to it by taking out the glove box?
@@bigbeefyboy9132 I ended up doing it without removing the glovebox. It was worth the time saved for me. It depends on your age and limberness really. It was pretty easy. You have to move the seat as far back as it'll go, lean the seat back and preferably take your shoes off so you don't get the headliner or seat dirty and literally lay upside down to reach it. It's really not too hard.
Good job and nice video sir
Thank you for helpful instruction! I got the part from eBay and am going to replaced both the resistor and the blower motor.
Dang! You're a beast with the plastics on that car! Take it easy! But thanks for the video.
Thank you! Another easy to follow video!
The idea of putting the blower motor resistor in the air ducting so it's cooled when the fan is running is genius. Should be a required standard (looking at you, Ford and GM)
I had a 2002 Ford Taurus, and I was replacing that thing ever year while it was in warranty, after warranty it went out and I did it myself when I saw the cost of it. You'll know right off because it only works on high speed.
I knew there was no way the speed coils on the resistor were bad and then saw there was a 'thermal fuse' on it. In a hair dryer, if it overheats it just needs a rest for a while to cool down. In a speed resistor on this model car, once they reach a certain temp they go out and that's it... If you're comfortable just bypassing it with solder and wire, you can do that but finding one from eBay or something isn't hard.
Amigo pregunta este modelo en q parte trae el filtro de cabina
You the man!
I really want to know _why_ he replaced it. I have a 98 Chevy Prizm (Corolla re-brand) and I just replaced the IAC, did a relearn but now the engine struggles under load, (AC, or Heater)and the RPM pulses up and down while the load is incurred. I'm leaning toward old/bad spark plug wires or Ignition Coil, but now I'm curious whether this Blower Motor Resistor could be the culprit.
I ran over a good size rock it made a lot of noise as it rolled out from under my car a 1999 Toyota corona my heater motor stopped instantly. What might be the problem.
Thanks! A somewhat similar problem that I wonder if you have a 'fix' for-- (ie maybe make a video :-) We have several corollas/prizms in my family, and on 2 of the prizm's, The cable coming out of the back of the heater/AC control (above the radio) has resistance/sticking, and the cable/wire gets 'bent' instead of going into the control cable. I have to take a pair of needle nose pliers and manually push and pull the cable to change the position (one is for the blend door/temp and one is for the 'mode' control, which is always on defrost). It looks like the door mechanism or the cable has started to stick and is the root cause. Since the cable gets bent, it looks like it is difficult to fix it without taking the whole dash apart and replacing the cable and lubricating the door. In this video, I don't see the 'door' control on your video... do you know how I would get to that part of the hvac ducting? There aren't many videos/posts for hvac type problems, even on toyotanation.com. Thanks!
I know it will not help you now but i will work on making videos on the corolla heater A/C controls.
richpin06a thanks that would be awesome, there is not much info on this kind of problem.
How do you know it was bad and needed replacement?
Is it necessary to disconnect the negative battery terminal for this job? I've seen some videos where people do that, but based on this video I really don't see the need.
Most repair manuals will state to remove the negative battery cable when working on anything electrical.
richpin06a Thanks. And thank you Also for this video. My mom's got a '99 Chevy Prizm and the fan doesn't work on the two lowest speeds, and now I know how to fix it for her for $20.
Would this affect the A.C.?
Ooow a ceramic potted array of resistors, different :-))
Yes different.Do you think there is a advantage in this design.
richpin06a
Hmm, perhaps having the coils encased protects them from corroding, but it hampers the cooling, the open types are the reverse.
Cost: Perhaps the ceramic ones are machine assembled and faster to produce than the hand made types?, i dont know really, its still just a wirewound resistor.
I have a Toyota Corolla ae110 1998 model the blower is okay but ac doesn’t turn on
I have to admit - very brutal way of removing plastic sill cover and glove compartment.
That prybar almost penetrated sill cover and left tension marks/color changed.
Also glove compartment broke while prying.
Glad he was not working on my car.
Where is Toyota caldina blower resistor located
have you ever found the 1998 Toyota to come equipped with block heater?
No i haven't.
I have ! loll
But why did you replece it
On this one i was just showing how to do the replacement.
Ok
(Y) merci
(Y) merci