They are a lot of fun, but the bad part is, it's really hard to only have one. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video and I apologize in advance if you find yourself in the shop at odd hours working on the next engine in your collection 😉
I'm glad your main caps just needed the file to break the burs on the side from the line bore. That was the first thing I tried fitting my mains, but the bore was still a bit out (undersized to the bearings or something) and the crank would not turn with even 1 cap in place. I could have shimmed the caps for fit, but I ended up resizing the inside since I didn't have any shim stock handy. Still loving the HM-01 and it's great that the fit is so good that any issues can be resolved without specialty tools.
I agree with you on the quality of this kit, I have been nothing but pleased with it so far. I kind of think that the main bearing bore is a bit too low (causing the binding as well as the noisy gear mesh that'll be on the next video). Thanks again for watching and commenting Henry, keep up your great work 👍
Love the detailed assembly!....I have experienced what you found on the main bearings working in a machine shop, even if you are "dead center" on a split bore, you still often need to deburr the 2 halfs to get the bearing to seat properly! I bet this video will help those people a bunch that purchased kit version, looking forward part 2. Do you know if there is a replaceable bronze/brass bushing at the wrist pin area? Also of note is the wrist pìn is held by set screws, the M90 had floating wrist pins and some have claimed cyl score can occure on the floating style. Don't loose any sleep over that wood base, us viewers are "just" hopeful of the slowest running longest coasting HM-01 build yet....but.....no pressure! 😅
The ET1 (M90) and entire ET series have floating wristpins that do score the bores (all my ET series have that problem, but I have had luck polishing the ends to reduce it) The wristpin on the HM-01 is held in place with set screws and I did not remove mine to look for a bushing, but every other engine in my collection (3 different manufacturers) have had brass on or in the wristpin for a bushing so I assume the MUSA has a brass bushing too.
My serial number is 23080. If yours is 23022 then maybe the code is YY### and you got one earlier than mine. Definitely would be nice to have a confirmation on that from the manufacturer though.
I can't answer how long it takes to get one now. I pre ordered mine when they were still in the design phase so it took several months to be produced before it could be shipped
I ordered mine when they were still in the "pre order" development stage and waited for about 5 months if I remember correctly. Now that they are in full production I would think that it should only be a few weeks. If you do order one would you do me a favor and let me know if they are still serialized? Mine has a serial number on it and I don't know if that was because it was one of the pre order engines or if they all have one. I hope this helps answer your question. If not I'll see how else I can help you 👍
Sterling wants $390 for the kit and $400 for fully assembled ready to run. With 15% coupon, $331 kit or $340 RTR. For the trivial difference why would you get the kit instead of RTR?
Do you prefer a McDonald's hamburger or one that you make on your grill after work? I'm sure that the RTR model would be fine, but your pride come with a price.
I am a new viewer to model engines, and a machinist who is an old gear head, and this series of videos has me wanting an engine now. Great video!
They are a lot of fun, but the bad part is, it's really hard to only have one. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video and I apologize in advance if you find yourself in the shop at odd hours working on the next engine in your collection 😉
Hey, your laid back attitude to challenges and watching you build, just relaxes me after a day at work. Well done sir, keep it up. 👍😁
I really appreciate your comment. I am glad that you guys are able to relax and enjoy being out in the shop with me 👍
I'm glad your main caps just needed the file to break the burs on the side from the line bore. That was the first thing I tried fitting my mains, but the bore was still a bit out (undersized to the bearings or something) and the crank would not turn with even 1 cap in place. I could have shimmed the caps for fit, but I ended up resizing the inside since I didn't have any shim stock handy. Still loving the HM-01 and it's great that the fit is so good that any issues can be resolved without specialty tools.
I agree with you on the quality of this kit, I have been nothing but pleased with it so far. I kind of think that the main bearing bore is a bit too low (causing the binding as well as the noisy gear mesh that'll be on the next video). Thanks again for watching and commenting Henry, keep up your great work 👍
i am still fascinated at these little marvels of patience and creativity. thank you again for your efforts in getting these vids out to us.
yay your back
I missed your video's
Love the detailed assembly!....I have experienced what you found on the main bearings working in a machine shop, even if you are "dead center" on a split bore, you still often need to deburr the 2 halfs to get the bearing to seat properly! I bet this video will help those people a bunch that purchased kit version, looking forward part 2.
Do you know if there is a replaceable bronze/brass bushing at the wrist pin area?
Also of note is the wrist pìn is held by set screws, the M90 had floating wrist pins and some have claimed cyl score can occure on the floating style.
Don't loose any sleep over that wood base, us viewers are "just" hopeful of the slowest running longest coasting HM-01 build yet....but.....no pressure! 😅
The ET1 (M90) and entire ET series have floating wristpins that do score the bores (all my ET series have that problem, but I have had luck polishing the ends to reduce it) The wristpin on the HM-01 is held in place with set screws and I did not remove mine to look for a bushing, but every other engine in my collection (3 different manufacturers) have had brass on or in the wristpin for a bushing so I assume the MUSA has a brass bushing too.
nice engine
My serial number is 23080. If yours is 23022 then maybe the code is YY### and you got one earlier than mine. Definitely would be nice to have a confirmation on that from the manufacturer though.
I couldn't agree more
How long it take to get it from Stirling? Thanks I enjoy your videos
I can't answer how long it takes to get one now. I pre ordered mine when they were still in the design phase so it took several months to be produced before it could be shipped
how long did it take for your kit to arrive from China
I ordered mine when they were still in the "pre order" development stage and waited for about 5 months if I remember correctly. Now that they are in full production I would think that it should only be a few weeks. If you do order one would you do me a favor and let me know if they are still serialized? Mine has a serial number on it and I don't know if that was because it was one of the pre order engines or if they all have one. I hope this helps answer your question. If not I'll see how else I can help you 👍
what is the best fuel and oil to use
I use VP race fuels 40:1 mix (helps lubricant the rings and top end) and I use SAE 30 for oil
Nice work, can I put it in our website? thank you!
Absolutely, I'll be posting the second part also with the finishing up build and running for the first time
Thank you so much!@@steam212
Sterling wants $390 for the kit and $400 for fully assembled ready to run. With 15% coupon, $331 kit or $340 RTR. For the trivial difference why would you get the kit instead of RTR?
Do you prefer a McDonald's hamburger or one that you make on your grill after work? I'm sure that the RTR model would be fine, but your pride come with a price.