Kinda tough to do on a revolver. Maybe with a boresnake, but with standard kit, not too easy, unless you insert the rod, from the front, screw the brush on, and drag it back out the front. Repeat ad nauseum. @@UnstoppableYaris
I didn't think I was going to sit through the entire 22 minute video BUT I could have sat through another 20 minutes of your video. Great job cleaning, educating and adding a little humor to this video. I'm just getting back into revolvers after years of playing with polymer pistols that are all beginning to look alike so this was a nice refresher. The Birchwood Casey Cloth looks like something I wish I knew about years ago. I paused the video and ordered it from Amazon and will have it delivered tomorrow. It's been 5 years since you made this video and it still was only $8.99 per package, so I ordered a couple. Great job, I'm looking forward to checking out more of your videos. Liked and subbed.
Hey brother, I literally just rewatched this video because I finally used the Birchwood Casey Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth's. Man, those things work just like in your video. I will recommend them to anyone that is looking for something to clean stainless revolvers, they work great without having to work too hard. Thanks again. Stay safe.
Great video. Watched others and they never removed the cylinder for a thorough cleaning. Also liked the tip about firing the 357 first before shooting 38 specials. Well done.
Excellent video... I will look for the lead remover cloth. I love my 686 3" and plan to grab a 4" next month. I never thought I'd watch a 20 minute cleaning video.. lol.. Thanks again!!!
One of the best cleaning tutorials I've ever seen. I've had a 686 for years and always thought I kept it pretty clean. I watched your video and have now added a couple of steps to my cleaning process. Also, great job making the video enjoyable. Like you said, most cleaning videos are boring. This video was not. Great video all the way around.
Good video . A couple of things I’d mention . 1: wrap the wood grips with cling wrap or a tight plastic ziplock bag . Solvent is very degrading to wood and wood stain/ finish . 2: I always wear protective gloves thin rubber ones work great . Solvents are bad juju to skin . 👍👍
For the cylinder holes, I chuck a cleaning rod with a .45 cal brush into a low speed drill and while holding the cylinder so it doesn’t spin, run the brush back and forth through each hole for maybe 5 seconds. Follow it up with a solvent soaked patch and they come out black. Follow up with dry patches to mop up remaining solvent. Gets them spotless. Never do this to the barrel since the barrel is rifled, but the smooth cylinder holes get as clean as they day they were made.
I always use a bore guide on my cleaning rods. Especially when having to clean from the muzzle. Other than that, you did a good job showing how to clean a revolver. Thanks.
Worth watching just to find out how to get lead off the front of the cylinder. The 686 is the first stainless handgun I've owned and I really struggled with those deposits first time I cleaned it.
I really enjoyed your video. Liked the dry brushing 1st. Great idea. I use Ballastol on my Glocks as well and works just fine. Can't wait to get tha Birchwood Casey cleaning cloth. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Nice advice straight out of the blocks about using proper screwdrivers and methods when disassembling gun screws....it's almost inevitable to scratch/mar your beauty if not heeded!
Great video. I have a 686 and thought I was cleaning it well. But I learned some good tips from you, especially the Birchwood recommendation (just ordered some from Amazon). And, I too was probably over-oiling mine.
I like to shoot a little Rem oil down into the lock works........just because. Been doing that the same way for 40 plus years. I do it because I like the idea of the inner workings being lubricated. My revolvers don't have any grease or " gook " oozing out either because............Rem oil, and most gun oils evaporate fairly rapidly. So it is just how I make love to my precious firearms. PS I always, always am very careful to not let any oil under my handgun grips. Nor under a barreled action on rifles. Love, Doug.
Careful when using steel headed brush. Doesn't do much but scratches are a COMING. Beautiful gun. I clean after break down and oil everytime. Marines always know to clean and oil their life blood. Great info. Neal
I like it when the church is next to the gun store: after service just walk next door. Also, our church encourages open carry during service. Them lead removal cloths are awesome; been using them for years. Thanks for the video.
A short, thick strip of leather and pair of vice grips is how I take the cylinder apart. Clamp the leather onto the knurled section of the ejector rod with the vice grips and rotate counter clockwise to loosen it. Notice a small area inside the rod is hollow, so try not to crush it with too much clamp force. It’s not a necessary step after every shooting, but hey, those little parts inside get dirty too! 😉
My co-favorite (along with the Ruger GP-100) handgun of all time. Don't care for the 7-shooter. Mine a sixer. Got a dozen or so speedloaders. Very seldom ever remove side plate. A good spritz of Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber, let it dry, then a good spritz of Break-Free and I'm done. Got an old Lewis lead remover for the bore. Good video, but you need the aforementioned items. Also, I'm a strange guy about guns. I loathe and detest almost ALL centerfire semiautomatic firearms. Don't like single action revolvers much either. However, when it comes to RIMFIRES, love semiautomatic. Got a Smith Model 41 target 22 pistol and an old Hi-Standard Victor. Cheers everybody!
I inherited a 357 mag S&W Mountain lite 7 round wheel gun . It's a 1988 in perfect shape, shot less then 20 times. Comes with medal locking case. IT ONLY WEIGHS 18 OUNCES, THAT'S RIGHT 18 OUNCES. 3.5 INCH BARREL. THEY STOPPED MAKING THEM BECAUSE IT'S VERY EXPENSIVE TO MAKE AND HARD TO WORK WITH. 7 ROUNDS ON TARGET GIVES YOU PEACE OF MIND. NEAL APOLLO BEACH FLORIDA
Regarding the author's advice to acquire the awesome (my favorite too) Birchwood Casey Lead & Polishing Cloth, I AM in the Phoenix area but both Cabelas and Bass Pro locations here have always stocked these Cloths in the gun kit cleaning sections. Because of Cabelas and Bass Pro being national chains I'd at least look for them there if you frequent either place as they are only Seven bucks and change and last a long time. I've take a black penny and turned it brighter than mint with two fingers inside about 90 seconds with minimal force and lead is NO Match for these cloths. No elbow grease required.
Good video. I prefer the KleenBore Lead Away Gun Cloth over the BIRCHWOOD CASEY brand. Both work; yet the KleenBore brand is thicker and works a little better. Additionally making smaller patches with the lead remover cloth; works nicely inside the cylinder and barrel.
Q: Do you HAVE to use left-handed metric cleaning tools ? Those are really expensive ! LOL By the way, may I suggest using nitrile gloves ? I like to prevent oils and solvents from getting into my body. Just a thought...
I would use a swab saturated in clp first and run it thru the barrel first to loosen up the residue. Then use the brush to remove the lead, etc. Then patches until they come OUT clean. Same with cylinder. BWC lead remover is great. I use shooters choice to clean my guns, but doesnt smell like hops.
I learned it's best to wipe excess carbon off the cylinder/finish relatively quickly. I waited a good day to clean it and it was a mother#$%^$#@ pain to clean it off. I'll own to the fact that I was horrible to a Smith & Wesson revolver. To anyone who buys one, wipe off the cylinder when you're done shooting! You don't have to CLEAN IT clean it but a goood wipe will save you lots of elbow grease when you do clean it!
I shoot .357 Magnum in my .357 Magnum revolver, and .38 Special in my .38 Special revolver. I don't shoot the shorter cartridges for the very reasons you stated. My.40 S&W in my semiautomatic pistol, not in my 610 revolver. There is also a school of thought that suggests that the bullet leaving the cylinder so deep in the chamber is detrimental to the longevity of the revolver. The point is, why risk it? Most people I know in the gun community have specific guns for specific calibers. Unless it is an emergency situation, it's really not necessary.
A lot of good tips, thank you! Just one question though... I thought when pushing a wire brush through a bore (and in this case the cylinder) you need to push it all the way through before retracting it. That way it doesnt damage the bristles or the bore. Myth?
good vid, if you have a new 357 and plan on shooting both 357 and 38 but more often 38 he says to shoot 357 ammo first for awhile but for how many rounds before 38.....50....100 ....200 rounds before going to 38 special
Why can’t a bronze brush be used on a blued revolver? Its still softer than blued steel no? It scratches the finish on blued guns, but not stainless steel? thanks
great great video, is there any reason not to use those lead cleaning wipes you said to order off the internet on more than just that face of the cylinder? like would cleaning the chambers or barrel with those be a bad idea, or just unnecessary? God bless
CLP don't do everything good they are just okay. I don't use one product to it all, when it comes to cleaning my firearms. I use? Gun-Werkz non-toxic cleaner, Weapon Shield lubricant non-toxic and Corrosion X to prevent rust.
you dont need to take out the cilinder to clean it, it wears out the threads on the screws and the sideplate, its unnesserary, just let it in and clean it with some polish and buff it, every time you shot it, ready in 10 minutes, keeps it like new, lube only the internals now and then.
I have both. The 4" is very accurate and you will have an easier time finding it. 6" is a lot of steel! 25 yds is no problem w/the 4" but I would recommend changing the front sight. I have a vid on that too. Good luck!
@@TheGoatMumbler Allright thanks a lot for your reply👍 I tend to like the 4" more I just have been concerned that the accuracy is worse than 6" Because there is less weight in the front, the 4" will be better balanced right + a little more recoil and flash (which I actually would appreciate) So overall I think now that I can't go wrong with the 4" It would be more fun at the range Can you confirm that? I appreciate your help With best regards Richard
I just just purchased a S&W 686 plus 4" (my very first revolver!) and your cleaning tutorial is a godsend. I subscribed
I hope you are not cleaning it from the front, you can damage your barrel. Always from the rear of the barrel forward
Good luck with your new 686-6
But trust me it won't be your last 😂
Kinda tough to do on a revolver. Maybe with a boresnake, but with standard kit, not too easy, unless you insert the rod, from the front, screw the brush on, and drag it back out the front. Repeat ad nauseum. @@UnstoppableYaris
@@sammcrae8892 Agreed! I use the snake on the barrel.
That Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth recommendation was a great takeaway. Good video. Thanks
I didn't think I was going to sit through the entire 22 minute video BUT I could have sat through another 20 minutes of your video. Great job cleaning, educating and adding a little humor to this video. I'm just getting back into revolvers after years of playing with polymer pistols that are all beginning to look alike so this was a nice refresher. The Birchwood Casey Cloth looks like something I wish I knew about years ago. I paused the video and ordered it from Amazon and will have it delivered tomorrow. It's been 5 years since you made this video and it still was only $8.99 per package, so I ordered a couple. Great job, I'm looking forward to checking out more of your videos. Liked and subbed.
Hey brother, I literally just rewatched this video because I finally used the Birchwood Casey Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth's. Man, those things work just like in your video. I will recommend them to anyone that is looking for something to clean stainless revolvers, they work great without having to work too hard. Thanks again. Stay safe.
Great video. Watched others and they never removed the cylinder for a thorough cleaning. Also liked the tip about firing the 357 first before shooting 38 specials. Well done.
Excellent video... I will look for the lead remover cloth. I love my 686 3" and plan to grab a 4" next month. I never thought I'd watch a 20 minute cleaning video.. lol..
Thanks again!!!
One of the best cleaning tutorials I've ever seen. I've had a 686 for years and always thought I kept it pretty clean. I watched your video and have now added a couple of steps to my cleaning process. Also, great job making the video enjoyable. Like you said, most cleaning videos are boring. This video was not. Great video all the way around.
I've watched many revolver cleaning videos on You Tube, and this one is the most helpful.
Good video . A couple of things I’d mention . 1: wrap the wood grips with cling wrap or a tight plastic ziplock bag . Solvent is very degrading to wood and wood stain/ finish . 2: I always wear protective gloves thin rubber ones work great . Solvents are bad juju to skin . 👍👍
Balistol is great for wood and the skin
Ordered a 6"x9" Birchwood Casey lead removal / polishing cloth on Amazon for $4.63 each. Thank you for the video👍
Good video with an intelligent approach on cleaning a fine revolver. Thank you.
I remember using this to clean 🪥 my cylinder back with 1rst .357 Magnum 💯. I will be on the look out for this product 🤝
Gosh, your 686 is so gorgeous.
For the cylinder holes, I chuck a cleaning rod with a .45 cal brush into a low speed drill and while holding the cylinder so it doesn’t spin, run the brush back and forth through each hole for maybe 5 seconds. Follow it up with a solvent soaked patch and they come out black. Follow up with dry patches to mop up remaining solvent. Gets them spotless. Never do this to the barrel since the barrel is rifled, but the smooth cylinder holes get as clean as they day they were made.
Good video. Just ordered that lead remover cloth. Thanks. That is something I needed
Brother your video is excellent! I just learnt how to clean my revolver that I'm waiting for to arrive thru my FFL. So thank u!
I always use a bore guide on my cleaning rods. Especially when having to clean from the muzzle. Other than that, you did a good job showing how to clean a revolver. Thanks.
Worth watching just to find out how to get lead off the front of the cylinder. The 686 is the first stainless handgun I've owned and I really struggled with those deposits first time I cleaned it.
Good stuff. I’m glad you mentioned the Birchwood Casey Cloth 👍
Great demonstration on cleaning a revolver. I like those grips. I use the birchwood lead remover too. I can get it at Gibsons in Kerrville.
Gibson's? I haven't heard of that store for 40 years! I hear there's a few left around.
I really enjoyed your video. Liked the dry brushing 1st. Great idea. I use Ballastol on my Glocks as well and works just fine. Can't wait to get tha Birchwood Casey cleaning cloth. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Just bought my first S&W 686. I’m your newest subscriber. Thank you for the excellent video.
Thanks for the tip on the Birchwood Casey lead remover cloth. I just bought one. Buildup on the front of the cylinder was driving me crazy. Great tip!
Outstanding video I just bought my first revolver (S&W 686 Plus Deluxe 6" barrel0) This is excellent information thanks!
Nice advice straight out of the blocks about using proper screwdrivers and methods when disassembling gun screws....it's almost inevitable to scratch/mar your beauty if not heeded!
Churches and gun stores. Nice. Love the polishing cloths.
Great video. I have a 686 and thought I was cleaning it well. But I learned some good tips from you, especially the Birchwood recommendation (just ordered some from Amazon). And, I too was probably over-oiling mine.
In the past, I scrubbed for hours (or it felt like hours) with a brass brush removing the lead and powder from the face of the cylinder.
I like to shoot a little Rem oil down into the lock works........just because. Been doing that the same way for 40 plus years. I do it because I like the idea of the inner workings being lubricated. My revolvers don't have any grease or " gook " oozing out either because............Rem oil, and most gun oils evaporate fairly rapidly. So it is just how I make love to my precious firearms. PS I always, always am very careful to not let any oil under my handgun grips. Nor under a barreled action on rifles. Love, Doug.
What a great video, I went to Birchwood and purchased the cloth, and also the basic screwdriver set. Thanks for what you do.
Excellent! I'm probably an over oiler!
Even though I know better!! I will be more aware from now on. Thanks
Used to live across the street from a gun store in Bloomington, IN. Have not been as fortunate here in Austin.
Careful when using steel headed brush. Doesn't do much but scratches are a COMING. Beautiful gun. I clean after break down and oil everytime. Marines always know to clean and oil their life blood. Great info. Neal
The Birchwood Casey lead remover also works on the forcing cone.
I use it all the time.
True. I put a long patch of it under the cone and work it like I’m shining shoes.
I like it when the church is next to the gun store: after service just walk next door. Also, our church encourages open carry during service. Them lead removal cloths are awesome; been using them for years. Thanks for the video.
You do really good videos…camera work and narrative are A+…..
A short, thick strip of leather and pair of vice grips is how I take the cylinder apart. Clamp the leather onto the knurled section of the ejector rod with the vice grips and rotate counter clockwise to loosen it. Notice a small area inside the rod is hollow, so try not to crush it with too much clamp force. It’s not a necessary step after every shooting, but hey, those little parts inside get dirty too! 😉
Great vid
Have a new 686
Awesome gun. Carry it on my hip. Revolvers are the best. IMO. 🤠
Excellent tutorial, especially about the lubing...thank you very much!
My co-favorite (along with the Ruger GP-100) handgun of all time. Don't care for the 7-shooter. Mine a sixer. Got a dozen or so speedloaders.
Very seldom ever remove side plate. A good spritz of Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber, let it dry, then a good spritz of Break-Free and I'm done. Got an old Lewis lead remover for the bore. Good video, but you need the aforementioned items.
Also, I'm a strange guy about guns. I loathe and detest almost ALL centerfire semiautomatic firearms.
Don't like single action revolvers much either.
However, when it comes to RIMFIRES, love semiautomatic. Got a Smith Model 41 target 22 pistol and an old Hi-Standard Victor.
Cheers everybody!
A Very helpful video, and what a Beautiful 686! Thank you!
Thanks for the lead removal cloth tip! Good video!
I use Blue Magic metal polish for cleaning the cylinder face. Easier and faster than the Birchwood Casey cloth.
Awesome video brother. Appreciate you sharing
I inherited a 357 mag S&W Mountain lite 7 round wheel gun . It's a 1988 in perfect shape, shot less then 20 times. Comes with medal locking case. IT ONLY WEIGHS 18 OUNCES, THAT'S RIGHT 18 OUNCES. 3.5 INCH BARREL. THEY STOPPED MAKING THEM BECAUSE IT'S VERY EXPENSIVE TO MAKE AND HARD TO WORK WITH. 7 ROUNDS ON TARGET GIVES YOU PEACE OF MIND. NEAL APOLLO BEACH FLORIDA
Regarding the author's advice to acquire the awesome (my favorite too) Birchwood Casey Lead & Polishing Cloth, I AM in the Phoenix area but both Cabelas and Bass Pro locations here have always stocked these Cloths in the gun kit cleaning sections. Because of Cabelas and Bass Pro being national chains I'd at least look for them there if you frequent either place as they are only Seven bucks and change and last a long time. I've take a black penny and turned it brighter than mint with two fingers inside about 90 seconds with minimal force and lead is NO Match for these cloths. No elbow grease required.
Good video. I prefer the KleenBore Lead Away Gun Cloth over the BIRCHWOOD CASEY brand. Both work; yet the KleenBore brand is thicker and works a little better. Additionally making smaller patches with the lead remover cloth; works nicely inside the cylinder and barrel.
Q: Do you HAVE to use left-handed metric cleaning tools ? Those are really expensive ! LOL
By the way, may I suggest using nitrile gloves ? I like to prevent oils and solvents from getting into my body. Just a thought...
Thx man great video! That lead remover cloths work excellent and saved me a ton of time and trouble.
That's a beautiful 686 before the cleaning!!
Excellent video. I like your style. Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth a great tip.
Thank you very much was a great video very helpful
Amazing lead removal cloth, great video
Thanks for the use of stainless steel removal of lead and copper.
Great video, thank you for sharing.
Truly... venerable wisdom!
Gorgeous gun.
Great instructional video. Thanks! Learned a lot.
you have to have the right size butter knife
Excellent video! Thank you!
Birchwood Lead Remover cloth, perfect, thanks!
I would use a swab saturated in clp first and run it thru the barrel first to loosen up the residue. Then use the brush to remove the lead, etc. Then patches until they come OUT clean. Same with cylinder.
BWC lead remover is great. I use shooters choice to clean my guns, but doesnt smell like hops.
Excellent product!
I just received the birchwood from the Us and this work perfectly! Thanks
I learned it's best to wipe excess carbon off the cylinder/finish relatively quickly. I waited a good day to clean it and it was a mother#$%^$#@ pain to clean it off. I'll own to the fact that I was horrible to a Smith & Wesson revolver. To anyone who buys one, wipe off the cylinder when you're done shooting! You don't have to CLEAN IT clean it but a goood wipe will save you lots of elbow grease when you do clean it!
Great video thanks for ur help just got my first revolver used s&w model 60. Trying to clean gotta get all the supplies
I couldn't afford the 686 so I went with a Ruger GP100. I wasn't let down
Loved this video!!! Funny yet informative!
Nice grips on that bad boy!
Very helpful, good i came across this, thanks
Awesome presentation
Thank you
Some good ole unintentional ASMR
I see you have an original 6 round 686. I have the exact same gun and it is way smoother than the newer 686+. It is a gun you keep forever.
The video I’ve been looking for! Thanks!
Love K9s
Treat em good, they'll treat you better
I shoot .357 Magnum in my .357 Magnum revolver, and .38 Special in my .38 Special revolver. I don't shoot the shorter cartridges for the very reasons you stated. My.40 S&W in my semiautomatic pistol, not in my 610 revolver.
There is also a school of thought that suggests that the bullet leaving the cylinder so deep in the chamber is detrimental to the longevity of the revolver. The point is, why risk it? Most people I know in the gun community have specific guns for specific calibers. Unless it is an emergency situation, it's really not necessary.
just ordered 2 bags of the birchwood casey cloth from amazon.
Great video. Very helpful.
A lot of good tips, thank you! Just one question though... I thought when pushing a wire brush through a bore (and in this case the cylinder) you need to push it all the way through before retracting it. That way it doesnt damage the bristles or the bore. Myth?
good vid, if you have a new 357 and plan on shooting both 357 and 38 but more often 38 he says to shoot 357 ammo first for awhile but for how many rounds before 38.....50....100 ....200 rounds before going to 38 special
Good stuff, thanks for sharing.
Well done. Thank you :)
If you have ballistol, you don't need regular gun oil or anything else?
Yes, ballistol the best 👌
Very nice. Thank you.
Great video. Thank you
Lucas synthetic safe gun cleaner
Followed by ballistol
Ordered the birch wood 😉👍
Why can’t a bronze brush be used on a blued revolver? Its still softer than blued steel no? It scratches the finish on blued guns, but not stainless steel? thanks
great great video, is there any reason not to use those lead cleaning wipes you said to order off the internet on more than just that face of the cylinder? like would cleaning the chambers or barrel with those be a bad idea, or just unnecessary? God bless
I'm no expert but I'd say - why not? It does such a great job removing all that lead so thoroughly and gently I think it'd work great on those areas.
Why don't you use the Birchwood Casey cloth inside the chambers?
I love your grips, what are those? Absolutely beautiful and great informational video. Definitely helped me with my 686
So where do you recommend oil and how much? Don’t want to put too much excess like your were saying
CLP don't do everything good they are just okay. I don't use one product to it all, when it comes to cleaning my firearms. I use? Gun-Werkz non-toxic cleaner, Weapon Shield lubricant non-toxic and Corrosion X to prevent rust.
I don't have any let hand metric cleaning tools can I use right handed standard ones instead? 😁
I learned a lot -- thanks!
Thank you.
Shit, for 36 years I've been cleaning my 686-2 wrong!
Great song!!! 👆🏾🙌🏾
you dont need to take out the cilinder to clean it, it wears out the threads on the screws and the sideplate, its unnesserary, just let it in and clean it with some polish and buff it, every time you shot it, ready in 10 minutes, keeps it like new, lube only the internals now and then.
sure but its nice to see a more in depth way to clean, even if you only go all out less often than a lighter cleaning.
Those lead removers are good stuff...But I have a blue gun but I will be buying them if I get a stainless gun...
Hi
Great Video
I am not able to decide between the 4 and 6 inch
Gonna be using ist it to shoot targets 10 to occasionally 25 yards
I have both. The 4" is very accurate and you will have an easier time finding it. 6" is a lot of steel! 25 yds is no problem w/the 4" but I would recommend changing the front sight. I have a vid on that too. Good luck!
@@TheGoatMumbler Allright thanks a lot for your reply👍
I tend to like the 4" more I just have been concerned that the accuracy is worse than 6"
Because there is less weight in the front, the 4" will be better balanced right
+ a little more recoil and flash (which I actually would appreciate)
So overall I think now that I can't go wrong with the 4"
It would be more fun at the range
Can you confirm that?
I appreciate your help
With best regards
Richard