I used a bizarre socket tool that has a turning handle on the end of it. (Works much like a right angle drill) That, in combination with a wobble impact socket, removed and installed that bolt like a champ
Correct, we took the wheel and the wheel well out, used a little 1/4" socket wrench with a bendable head and used a 13mm. One click at a time, what a bitch
@@daveraymond2265 I tried that. I couldnt see the bolt and there was no easy access to it. Everyone else must have a bigger gap in their vehicles. I couldnt do a damn thing. Ended up using a deep socket with short extension, swivel and flexible extension coming from the side.
For the top bolt, I used a shallow 1/4 drive, three inch extension, and ratchet. I could feel the socket onto the bolt with my left hand and worked the ratchet with the right. I do have it on a hoist, though. I came here to see you actually take the starter out. It's out of the trans but, there's not enough clearance to get it out of the truck. I'll get back on it tomorrow. It'll probably fall out, then!
Great place to start, I took the wheel liner out too to get better access. I also switched to a 1/4 inch drive ratchet after I broke it loose so I had more swing room. Also do the top bolt first so the starter is not binding making it harder to move.
I tried from underneath for almost 4 hours. I would have a grip but almost no way to see or turn. Thanks for this idea! (And hopefully there is an automotive design HELL just for these A- holes!
There is a special place in hell for automotive engineers. I will give this a try. One of the most miserable jobs I've tried doing and I've been turning a wrench since the 1970s.🤬🤬
Yi am doing this tommorow, got the the first two today. Have to take the tire off tommorow and try that top one, truck is in a parking lot, with stone........
@@boscoman69 can't touch it, the original motor was blown and the replacement motor, well, the starter is right up against the frame and the exhaust manifold is almost touching the top of the starter, so the tire has to be removed .... It's going to be a bitch but the only way to access it.
I hope this can help someone what a nightmare.. it worked great for me just use a 1/4 ratchet with a 1/2 7’ piece of copper leverage once you break loose just use the ratchet.. your good .. especially the top bolt.. I change it less then a hour.. hopefully you won’t snap the bolts. 10 & 13 mm sockets..
I think they've figured out the best way to do it and that's their starting point, whereas you and I take a first look and spend 10 minutes figuring out where the heck that bolt is and another 45 minutes trying to figure out how to reach it.
@@chriselliott1499 Always disconnect the negative side of the battery. The negative side of the battery is bolted to the chassis ground of the vehicle, if while you are disconnecting the negative side of the battery your wrench swings and hits any part of the vehicle nothing happens, if you disconnect the positive side of the battery first and your wrench swings and hits any part of the vehicle you create a direct short to ground create a bunch of sparks or weld your wrench to the chassis 👊
Once the negative is removed you would be able to touch pos. to ground with no issues. If the ground is connected & you touch positive to ground, you will have issued.
No, I mean the negative terminal on the battery. It is always safer to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, this way if you happen to touch any part of the vehicle with the wrench as you’re disconnecting it nothing happens because that negative terminal is going to the frame and body anyway. If you disconnect the positive side of the battery and while you’re swinging the wrench it happens to touch any part of the vehicle you could get some sparks or arcing. Plus all the electrons flow out of the negative terminal and back to the positive terminal so by disconnecting the negative terminal you will have no electron flow anywhere.
@@daveraymond2265 Removing the negative is the right answer. It’s presents lower risk of personal injury and is less likely to cause problems with electronic/computer/sensors etc. Electrons flow from - to positive but current flows from positive to negative aka hole flow in conventional flow. I think the military teaches opposite. The real risk is when people conclude that its safe to work on any electrical circuit if the neutral or ground is disconnected. The risk of death or permanent disability comes into play. So rather than challenge peoples entire view on electricity, I just remind them to be careful taking the positive off and on and they can concentrate on what they are doing rather than be distracted and confused. Just my personal philosophy and reasoning. I have no problem with yours. People with a helpful attitude make for a brighter future for all. So I applaud and appreciate it.
@@Str8Tru The main reason I tell people to disconnect the negative side of the battery first is because the terminal goes directly to the chassis anyway so if they’re careless in swinging the wrench and touching the frame of the vehicle nothing happens
@@daveraymond2265 I agree totally. The experts, repair manuals and manufacturers all say to disconnect the negative. I just let the guys that disconnect the positive before working on any electric circuit, AC or DC have at it. Rather than confuse them with particulars.
I used a bizarre socket tool that has a turning handle on the end of it. (Works much like a right angle drill) That, in combination with a wobble impact socket, removed and installed that bolt like a champ
That top bolt is one S O B....
Yes it is!! I would much rather do the extra work of lifting the truck and removing the wheel to get a look at it!
Currently replacing one at work.... I'm ready to lock my box and head out. 😅
Correct, we took the wheel and the wheel well out, used a little 1/4" socket wrench with a bendable head and used a 13mm. One click at a time, what a bitch
@@daveraymond2265 I tried that. I couldnt see the bolt and there was no easy access to it. Everyone else must have a bigger gap in their vehicles. I couldnt do a damn thing. Ended up using a deep socket with short extension, swivel and flexible extension coming from the side.
I gave my son a birthday gift of replacing his starter...I am about to take it the mechanic, but will try this.
You the man!
For the top bolt, I used a shallow 1/4 drive, three inch extension, and ratchet. I could feel the socket onto the bolt with my left hand and worked the ratchet with the right. I do have it on a hoist, though. I came here to see you actually take the starter out. It's out of the trans but, there's not enough clearance to get it out of the truck. I'll get back on it tomorrow. It'll probably fall out, then!
Great place to start, I took the wheel liner out too to get better access. I also switched to a 1/4 inch drive ratchet after I broke it loose so I had more swing room. Also do the top bolt first so the starter is not binding making it harder to move.
Thank you, ford for designing this pos. Trying to figure out how to remove this stupid bolt. Hopefully your method will work.
I tried from underneath for almost 4 hours. I would have a grip but almost no way to see or turn.
Thanks for this idea!
(And hopefully there is an automotive design HELL just for these A- holes!
I feel ya, been there!
There is a special place in hell for automotive engineers.
I will give this a try. One of the most miserable jobs I've tried doing and I've been turning a wrench since the 1970s.🤬🤬
Yi am doing this tommorow, got the the first two today. Have to take the tire off tommorow and try that top one, truck is in a parking lot, with stone........
@@coreyfairbanks7374 I didn't find that removing the wheel did anything as far as getting a view. It really is all by touch or a mirror. Good luck.
@@coreyfairbanks7374 ua-cam.com/video/O-egMIATlwE/v-deo.html
@@boscoman69 can't touch it, the original motor was blown and the replacement motor, well, the starter is right up against the frame and the exhaust manifold is almost touching the top of the starter, so the tire has to be removed .... It's going to be a bitch but the only way to access it.
What helped us out was we put a piece of wood trim or something behind the ratchet to put pressure behind it whioew we were taking the bolt off
I hope this can help someone what a nightmare.. it worked great for me just use a 1/4 ratchet with a 1/2 7’ piece of copper leverage once you break loose just use the ratchet.. your good .. especially the top bolt.. I change it less then a hour.. hopefully you won’t snap the bolts. 10 & 13 mm sockets..
Did you use a 7 inch extension to reach the top bolt ?? Did you also have to take the passenger tire off ??
@@GMONEY-xl5gu yes I had to take the tire off and the plastic shroud also to get at the bolt. 5 1/2 inch 3/8 ratchet shallow 13 mm socket will reach..
Thanks 4 the information
Only two bolts are goin back in, believe that!!
@@brandonhartman4795 😂😂😂😂😂😂
I was able to snake a 2ft 3/8 extension with a 13mm swivel socket I attached the ratchet at the front of the frame. It was much easier
@@zjd7684 there ya go!!
I've been wondering that looking at all these videos talking about this bolt. Trying this tomorrow !
Do Ford techs actually have a tool or something they use to do this or is it the same nightmware for them
I think they've figured out the best way to do it and that's their starting point, whereas you and I take a first look and spend 10 minutes figuring out where the heck that bolt is and another 45 minutes trying to figure out how to reach it.
Do I have to take the tire off in order to get the third bolt?
I’m going to try to cut 13 m wrench in half just to get it in there lil modification
Thanks
Also, is it the same for a platinum 5.4?
It the positive side not negative people don't get shock
@@chriselliott1499 Always disconnect the negative side of the battery. The negative side of the battery is bolted to the chassis ground of the vehicle, if while you are disconnecting the negative side of the battery your wrench swings and hits any part of the vehicle nothing happens, if you disconnect the positive side of the battery first and your wrench swings and hits any part of the vehicle you create a direct short to ground create a bunch of sparks or weld your wrench to the chassis 👊
At least it’s not under the intake manifold between the heads like my tundra was 😂
I feel your pain ……. 👊
That would have been easier than the Ford third Bolt starter
I have done starter on both and the one on the ford is much harder to get to
Your bell housing is broke 1:55
Yes, whoever was in there before me. 👊
@@daveraymond2265 I was just being a smart ass I figured you knew 😂
You mean the positive wire
Nope, always disconnect the negative terminal. Always.
Once the negative is removed you would be able to touch pos. to ground with no issues. If the ground is connected & you touch positive to ground, you will have issued.
Now get it back it…😂
@@brandonhartman4795 lol 👊
Thanks
No, I mean the negative terminal on the battery. It is always safer to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, this way if you happen to touch any part of the vehicle with the wrench as you’re disconnecting it nothing happens because that negative terminal is going to the frame and body anyway. If you disconnect the positive side of the battery and while you’re swinging the wrench it happens to touch any part of the vehicle you could get some sparks or arcing. Plus all the electrons flow out of the negative terminal and back to the positive terminal so by disconnecting the negative terminal you will have no electron flow anywhere.
👊
@@daveraymond2265
Removing the negative is the right answer. It’s presents lower risk of personal injury and is less likely to cause problems with electronic/computer/sensors etc.
Electrons flow from - to positive but current flows from positive to negative aka hole flow in conventional flow. I think the military teaches opposite.
The real risk is when people conclude that its safe to work on any electrical circuit if the neutral or ground is disconnected. The risk of death or permanent disability comes into play. So rather than challenge peoples entire view on electricity, I just remind them to be careful taking the positive off and on and they can concentrate on what they are doing rather than be distracted and confused.
Just my personal philosophy and reasoning. I have no problem with yours.
People with a helpful attitude make for a brighter future for all. So I applaud and appreciate it.
@@Str8Tru The main reason I tell people to disconnect the negative side of the battery first is because the terminal goes directly to the chassis anyway so if they’re careless in swinging the wrench and touching the frame of the vehicle nothing happens
@@daveraymond2265 I agree totally. The experts, repair manuals and manufacturers all say to disconnect the negative. I just let the guys that disconnect the positive before working on any electric circuit, AC or DC have at it. Rather than confuse them with particulars.