Replace Rear Brake Pads - 2018 Mazda 3 (With Maintenance Mode)
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Update August 9th, 2021: Video updated to include steps for entering maintenance mode prior to starting work on the rear brakes, and for exiting maintenance mode after completion of all rear brake work.
This video walks through my experience with changing the rear brake pads on a 2018 Mazda3 (equipped with the electronic parking brake). Spoiler - I went a little over on miles, and should have changed these pads a few months sooner, in order to prevent some minor damage to my rotors. I got just over 26,000 miles on these pads, and they probably should have been replaced at 25,000 if I'm guessing.
This was my first experience changing the pads on this vehicle, and I hadn't done any research ahead of time. Next time I'll check the literature for applying grease to the caliper pins, and if it's recommended to lubricate any other areas. I'm not a certified mechanic, so learn from my mistakes, but don't take my path as gospel, by any means. I didn't see any videos out there for 2018 Mazda3 brake pad replacement, so until someone does better, I hope this helps a little bit. The worst part by far was dealing with the compression on the piston, other than that it was a pretty straight forward experience.
Additional August 9th thoughts: Now I'm curious (if you use Maintenance mode, does that remove the difficulty I had in retracting my pistons? I'll find out next time I guess, but I suspect this will make a big difference (much easier I hope). You can hear the piston compressing for a while, either this means it is compressed in a useful way, or it likely means it took the load off the piston, and maybe it's easier to compress. Please comment if you beat me to it, I'd really like to know for next time.
Special thanks to user "Line Lauzon" for the helpful comment.
2018 Mazda 3 w/Electronic Parking Brake
*If you have ever done a car with the rear emergency brake with a caliper compression tool like a late model Mustang, FORGET everything you ever know about compressing the rear brake calipers!!! You do not have to screw them in as you compress them, they electronically screw in when you correctly place it in the maintenance mode… here is how you do that…
1. Turn the ignition on(quickly tap the start button twice).
2. Push the Gas Pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
3. While still holding the gas pedal to the floor, push down and hold the parking brake button down
4. Continue holding the gas pedal and parking brake button and turn the ignition off…. (Press start once).
5. Wait 2-3 seconds, while still holding the gas pedal and brake button as it was, turn the ignition back on by pressing the start button twice.
6. Now you should hear the rear parking brake actuating and moving…continue to hold everything until you hear the actuator stop
7. You should now see((P)) symbol (parking brake warning light on the instrument cluster)
8. Now press the start button once and the ignition should turn off.
How to get out of the maintenance mode…
1. Turn the ignition on (2 presses on the start button)
2. Gas Pedal to the floor.
3. While holding down the gas pedal, pull up on the parking brake and hold it.
4. Continue holding everything… Turn the ignition off (1 press on the start button).
5. Continue holding everything…Turn the ignition on (2 presses of the start button)
6. Continue holding everything, you will hear the rear brakes moving and you will see the warning light ((P)) is off
7. Turn the ignition off (1 press of the start button)
** Once you get into the maintenance mode, your caliber compression tool will need a smooth adaptor (no pins extruding, because you do not need to turn the piston as you apply pressure with the compression tool, simply compress the caliber piston with light pressure).
MOST IMPORTANT… IF YOU START APPLYING PRESSURE TO THE CALIBER PISTON (LIGHT PRESSURE) AND IT DOES NOT START TO MOVE, YOU ARE NOT IN THE MAINTENANCE MODE! Go back to step one and start over!
sir thanks on the information...i dont know if this also the process adopted here in the philippines...thanks sir
Henry, thanks for sharing the details. Really very helpful to share with anyone doing their own pads.
Henry thank you for sharing the steps. Saved me from writing them down. Performing this work on my daughters Mazda 3 tomorrow. Hoping these steps really work.
Your tips saved my life! Very much appreciated!
This is very important information to know prior to changing the brakes. My dad and I didnt know this until I had to google wtf is going on lol. Thank you for posting this
Thank you so much for this updated video. You saved me so much time and money. I was nervous to do the work due to the electronic brakes. Big big help!
Dang man, that rotor is shot!
its hanging on by the last chips
helpful vid for sure, thank you!
But please, get some jack stands instead of working on the jack.
Do NOT rotate the pistons on the EPB cars! Push the piston straight in and make sure the markers are lined u.p perfectly. Rotating the pistons can DAMAGE the EPB. I suggest you also lube up all the usual parts (not the braking surface/material obviously but other metal on metal part.
Quick ? So if your not supposed to rotate the piston back in on EPB cars then why do some of the caliper piston tools work by rotating? Like the ones with the interchangeable discs they sell. Not doubting your advice just curious. Also so does not rotating also apply to the 2019 Mazda 3 as well? Thanks for any advice you can offer as I'm getting ready to do this job on the wifes car.
Thanks Mate! I’m the same, love driving my manual…unfortunately they are the dinosaur now with Mazda Australia only selling auto now. I also only had to change the rear pads at 80,000km but strangely still got the front at 150,000km. Excuse I heard was the G Vectoring kicks in through rear brakes.
brother, this video was awesome, thanks for making it!
Great video much appreciated going to save me about 350 today. Thanks a bunch
Glad it helped
Thanks for your video, I was about to give up. The tip for the piston really helped!
Thank you for the tutorial! In my case the replaced pads did not rub evenly on both left and right only on the back side . Is that normal? If not, what could be the issue?
You probably need to grease the calipers and make sure they're applying equal pressure. I had this issue and one of the calipers had froze so I had to loosen it and grease it to make sure it pushed against the brake pad when the brakes were applied.
The OEM brakes on the 3 are garbage. Mine, and the rear rotors were gone at 49000 km (30000 miles). I've had Volvos, Alfas, etc. last 70,000 and, like you I engine brake. Very disappointing.. Great video Sebastian.
you got adhd timing lights just like me lol... Great video
Man thank you you really helped me
Do not use plyers on the piston , when the car is in maitenence mode push them in lightly with a c clamp. Go easy dont brake the plastic on the back.again go easy.😁😁😁😁
Can you do both back wheels and maintenance mode just one time or do you have to put it in a maintenance mode for both sides?
I bet those pads only lasted another 26000 you need to take the bracket off and clean up the grooves for the pads better. A wire brush won’t touch the rust buildup. Try using a file to remove all the rust and get it back to bare metal. You should never need to use a hammer to install pads they should slip in nice and easy.
Thanks for the recommendation, I'll put more emphasis on rust removal next time around (no more hammer). Oddly the front pads are still going strong (now at 36,000 miles), seems odd that the OEM rears wore out so quick. Mazda makes great "value" vehicles, but being a smaller player and having less purchasing volume likely makes cost cutting a huge initiative, so maybe they had to downgrade the pad material or otherwise cheapen the rear brakes to keep the vehicle extra affordable (just speculating). I'm still a fan of their design and engineering, but never forget, you get what you pay for.
@@SebastianOats Odd since my OEM front brakes lasted 85K+ on my 2014 mazda 3.....and I am far from gentile on them. IDK when but my rears pads actually wore out before the front
your the best thanks man i was losing my mind
the pads seized up because their is no hardware for the pads to sit on so it can slide. That’s why the pads wear is uneven. Mazda cheap out on the hardware. By the way, get new rotors. Those rotors rusted to shit.
Hey guys. You forgot to grease the sliders on the brake pads.dude, who stole my car.😁😁😁😁
So you’ll be changing the pad again in a month
IT worked and very clear explanation, TKS a lot!!
All you got was 26k off those brakes? Im at 90k miles with original brake pads and they still arent grinding i just picked up more today actually spent a little extra to get the same ones that come stock maybe its the duralast pads lol
Thank you for the insight. It helped. Great tutorial 👌
Amazing video! Awesome instructional, ty!!
If I have a automatic 2018 Mazda 3 sedan do I have to do the same thing or is only for manual ?
I wonder if the gen 4 models are done the same
Why with those rotors tho?
Unfortunately, that was all that Autozone had at the time, I hope to consider an upgrade next time around.
To have them work ,you need to grease them on the tips
Awesome job
Just replacing my pads at 76k miles. Back right rotor got a little messed up so that will have to go too. How’d you only get 26k out of them?? 😂
Please change your disks with the pads guys
Definitely shouldn't rotate the piston back into the caliper or you'll damage the electronic brake mechanism. It needs to be pushed in. You can buy a tool that compresses the piston and its much easier with no risk of damaging the parking brake.
The caliper tool doesn’t really work
Not doubting your advice but why do they sell certain tools that rotate the piston back in if your not supposed to do it that way?
@imagineengine because not every car has an e-brake mechanism and some others that do, function in such a way that turning the piston back into the caliper won't damage it. But doing this on a Mazda 3 can damage it.
@@jasonharris996 so even though my Mazda 3 DOES have E-brake system it is NOT designed to be turned back in?
@@imagineengine no, it's not. Turning it back in can damage the e-brake's actuator motor.
Torque wrench and use bleeder screw to get piston in
You should leave it to the professionals. That’s a Mickey Mouse job you did
Thank you so much
bro no. u need new rotors.
Yes, you called it, I definitely need new rotors. Stay tuned for that experience
omg! dude! Please remove this vodeo. I hate to bash you, but those rotors should never have been put back on the car. In fact, in many(mayby most) states, they would not pass inspection as those pads are dangerous and inadequate. Thank God they are in the REAR, cause if they were in the FRONT I would not hesatate in predicting you in an accident!
If you are watching this video or have watched it, PLEASE search for another video.
Your rotors are junk!