What about using a vacuum chamber (120USD on Amazon for 3 gallon chamber) to get out any air bubbles (in the hot/liquid wax submerged chain) and really drive the wax into the nooks..? I have this mental image of bubbles preventing wax filling small spaces.
I've seen the approach used to help epoxy get into fine spaces (carbon/Kevlar matting, rough wood). I looked and beeswax seems to be ok in a vacuum at room temp (if something is close to it's boiling temp, a low pressure might cause it to boil off) but I couldn't find the exact boiling point for a given pressure... So I don't know if wax at 100°c in a vacuum chamber set at maximum will boil
I noticed the silica and graphene settle to the bottom of the wax. I like to stir my chain in the wax and let the wax cool till it just about solidifies to get more of the goodness into the chain instead of lying on the bottom of the wax container. Once cooled enough and a final stir I pull it to dry with more of the fine particulates you want in the chain.
I have some samples; I just haven't tried it yet. Check out Zero Friction Episode 21 Lubricant Choice Guide: ua-cam.com/video/PiSZFXZ4yxA/v-deo.htmlsi=tSnM3ERI2p4kNNFz
Thanks for the cool video! So, I started waxing my road bike chain, and it leaves a ton of wax dandruff on the chainstay and derailleur and allllllll over the floor when it’s on the trainer. Is there a way to prevent the wax dust/flakes everywhere? I like the chain not being greasy and nasty, just concerned about wax all over my nice new bike!
Try to use a dry/clean hand-held chain cleaner to remove some of the excess. Wax dust shouldn't hurt the frame or componentry; just dust and vacuum it up. Also, don't forget to cover the areas of the bike that you sweat on. Sweat is like acid to bike parts.
@@IKnowAGuyBicycles Thanks! I commented before reaching the end of the video, and a few minutes later saw your trick with the brushy cleaner thing! A few months ago I saw that my aluminum bars definitely have some corrosion happening, so should probably replace them sooner than later. Will be spending a lot of time on the new TT bike this year though, so I'm looking forward to a change of pace. Thanks again!
I use straight candle wax, and re-wax regularly. It costs almost nothing. I'm looking into running 3 chains on my new bike, to even out the wear. Won't go back to liquid lube!
It works great for me. Watching how Zero Friction does their testing, it is intense, and they are based in England. I would check out some of his videos and results. @zerofrictioncycling992
Thanks for the walkthrough! Super helpful to see your setup. When a customer sends a used waxed chain back for a rewax. What is your process for rewaxing? Do you do any prep/cleaning work before submerging the chain in the hot wax? Thanks!
Great point! There are a few schools of thought on that. For road bikes, rinse with water/dry and re-wax. MTB is two wax baths, first to shed old wax and then second to refresh with new. "Zero Friction" shows that process. I put them in rubbing alcohol, run them a couple of times in the ultrasonic cleaner, and then dry them. It's not the complete cleaning, just a good rinse before re-waxing. If you must strip it completely to use another brand of lubes, submerge it in boiling water. lol Follow-up video will be coming.
Super video. I definitely want to try that Beeswax at some point. I like the idea of using the chain cleaner. I have a dedicated Grand-master link that I use for the shedding process (it’s just a 8-spd master painted yellow) that way you still have a virgin master to give to customers.
Nice, waxing with the link. I found it easier for the customer to reuse without pushing through the wax build-up. I use small zip ties when master/power links are not available. But that's a great idea. I'll have to give that a try. Ping me at justin@iknowaguybicycles.com. I would love to compare notes.
Some beeswax can be sticky. Yours must not be. I like the idea of using ultrasound with molten wax to make sure it penetrates well. I wonder whether it might substitute for all the detergent and alcohol washes. Perhaps a dirty chain could be sonicated sequentially in several batches of molten wax to see how many would be needed to clean and wax it.
Looks like he puts the wax coated chains into a container then sits them on the basket of the ultrasonic to agitate/warm the wax deeper into the chains. Then puts the chains back in the wax for another coating.
A very possibly good but messy idea... Instead of placing the chains in the ultrasonic cleaner in the container, take a deep tissue massage gun, hold it against the closed tupperware container, and it should move and vibrate everything around quite well.
What you would like to see next? Check out the other "Wax Videos" hanging out with the guy. Videos:ua-cam.com/video/BmTx-nc7atU/v-deo.html
What about using a vacuum chamber (120USD on Amazon for 3 gallon chamber) to get out any air bubbles (in the hot/liquid wax submerged chain) and really drive the wax into the nooks..? I have this mental image of bubbles preventing wax filling small spaces.
@@MichaelSmith-fg8xh Interesting. I'll have to check into that.
I've seen the approach used to help epoxy get into fine spaces (carbon/Kevlar matting, rough wood). I looked and beeswax seems to be ok in a vacuum at room temp (if something is close to it's boiling temp, a low pressure might cause it to boil off) but I couldn't find the exact boiling point for a given pressure... So I don't know if wax at 100°c in a vacuum chamber set at maximum will boil
I noticed the silica and graphene settle to the bottom of the wax. I like to stir my chain in the wax and let the wax cool till it just about solidifies to get more of the goodness into the chain instead of lying on the bottom of the wax container. Once cooled enough and a final stir I pull it to dry with more of the fine particulates you want in the chain.
I use squirt wax lube have done for about 2 years been great 😊 Pete
I have some samples; I just haven't tried it yet. Check out Zero Friction Episode 21 Lubricant Choice Guide: ua-cam.com/video/PiSZFXZ4yxA/v-deo.htmlsi=tSnM3ERI2p4kNNFz
The ONLY way! Chain waxing is the go-to way., Works so well and is so much better and cheaper No fuss No black mess as with oils
What size is your ultrasonic tank .. great video.thanks
I believe it's a 15L. amzn.to/3U7DKa7
Thanks for the cool video! So, I started waxing my road bike chain, and it leaves a ton of wax dandruff on the chainstay and derailleur and allllllll over the floor when it’s on the trainer. Is there a way to prevent the wax dust/flakes everywhere? I like the chain not being greasy and nasty, just concerned about wax all over my nice new bike!
Try to use a dry/clean hand-held chain cleaner to remove some of the excess. Wax dust shouldn't hurt the frame or componentry; just dust and vacuum it up. Also, don't forget to cover the areas of the bike that you sweat on. Sweat is like acid to bike parts.
@@IKnowAGuyBicycles Thanks! I commented before reaching the end of the video, and a few minutes later saw your trick with the brushy cleaner thing! A few months ago I saw that my aluminum bars definitely have some corrosion happening, so should probably replace them sooner than later. Will be spending a lot of time on the new TT bike this year though, so I'm looking forward to a change of pace. Thanks again!
I use straight candle wax, and re-wax regularly. It costs almost nothing.
I'm looking into running 3 chains on my new bike, to even out the wear.
Won't go back to liquid lube!
How well does that work for rainy, snowy, muddy gravel/bikepacking in Scotland in winter?
It works great for me. Watching how Zero Friction does their testing, it is intense, and they are based in England. I would check out some of his videos and results. @zerofrictioncycling992
Nice trick with the clip on chain cleaner! I'll give that a shot.
The loquacious Australian got me into hot waxing a few months ago
Yeah, the ultrasonic cleaner has changed my world in parts cleaning.
How concentrated is the Simple Green for chain cleaning, straight from the bottle?
For chains and cassettes (only) I do. 1/6 ratio for all other parts.
Thanks for the walkthrough! Super helpful to see your setup. When a customer sends a used waxed chain back for a rewax. What is your process for rewaxing? Do you do any prep/cleaning work before submerging the chain in the hot wax? Thanks!
Great point! There are a few schools of thought on that. For road bikes, rinse with water/dry and re-wax. MTB is two wax baths, first to shed old wax and then second to refresh with new. "Zero Friction" shows that process. I put them in rubbing alcohol, run them a couple of times in the ultrasonic cleaner, and then dry them. It's not the complete cleaning, just a good rinse before re-waxing. If you must strip it completely to use another brand of lubes, submerge it in boiling water. lol Follow-up video will be coming.
Ok makes sense! Thanks for sharing.
Any concerns about changing the hardness/heat treat on the chain by heating?
Not that I’m aware of.
Like your boiling cauldron :)
How do you know when it's time to quit the wax and start fresh? When there isn't enough left in the pot to submerge the chain?
Yep, until you can't cover the whole chain. Some people add more to melt, but I like to clean out and start fresh with a new batch.
Super video. I definitely want to try that Beeswax at some point. I like the idea of using the chain cleaner. I have a dedicated Grand-master link that I use for the shedding process (it’s just a 8-spd master painted yellow) that way you still have a virgin master to give to customers.
Nice, waxing with the link. I found it easier for the customer to reuse without pushing through the wax build-up. I use small zip ties when master/power links are not available. But that's a great idea. I'll have to give that a try. Ping me at justin@iknowaguybicycles.com. I would love to compare notes.
@@IKnowAGuyBicycles yes, definitely. I’ll reach out to you.
Some beeswax can be sticky. Yours must not be.
I like the idea of using ultrasound with molten wax to make sure it penetrates well. I wonder whether it might substitute for all the detergent and alcohol washes. Perhaps a dirty chain could be sonicated sequentially in several batches of molten wax to see how many would be needed to clean and wax it.
It's not; with the blending of paraffin wax reduces that, plus I use a high grade of beeswax.
The ultrasonic process after the hot wax immersion makes little sense and wasn’t explained adequately.
I'll give that more focus on my next chain wax video. Thank you for your insight.
Looks like he puts the wax coated chains into a container then sits them on the basket of the ultrasonic to agitate/warm the wax deeper into the chains. Then puts the chains back in the wax for another coating.
what about jusr pure wax ? works too ?
Yep check out this review/test from Zero Friction: ua-cam.com/video/BelnkR7djXk/v-deo.htmlsi=vBr2elFUf8xOVOv6
@@IKnowAGuyBicycles on it! thanks
A very possibly good but messy idea... Instead of placing the chains in the ultrasonic cleaner in the container, take a deep tissue massage gun, hold it against the closed tupperware container, and it should move and vibrate everything around quite well.