Dude, used this video 2 years ago to do my first one. Doing again on a different truck today. Thank you so much for making this, couldn't do it without it!
I removed the back of the block fitting drivers side coming from the top of engine with a 19mm open wrench with line and clip still attached. You have to unclip the line to the top of turbo first. Then you can pull the line out and remove the clip.
I have a 2017 Expedition with a 3.5 litter engine. I had both driver and passenger leaks. I started with the passenger. You will need a really good light, preferably with a rotating magnet. Remove negative battery cable. Jack up car, jack stands for safety, removed the upper inner wheel well...lots of plastic tabs and 5.5 mm socket...maybe even 8 mm...or 10 mm. Remove the engine plastic tabs closest to the front of the car. I also removed one of the air intakes that leads to the turbo and loosened the other one to have more turbo wiggle room later. I had both turbo fittings leaking. I half took off the turbo. Changed both while off. I removed 3 nuts off starter, not the electrical connections. I removed the 2 exhaust bolts. I removed the 3 manifold bolts. You will need to get the 3 manifold bolts and the triangular manifold gasket if you don't want to reuse the old ones. I got 3 manifold bolts and the gasket. Remove the 2 bolts to the oil line. I did not fully remove it. I was able to wiggle the turbo loose to where I could change both turbo fittings. Wear gloves if you don't want finger cuts when handling the exhaust part of the turbo. You will need a 3/8ths 45 torx and 50 torx. Also long extensions and a wobble extensions...and universal joint sockets, both 3/8 and 1/2 inch.... They helped. Be careful with the brake lines as they are near when wiggling the turbo out. Once everything was loose I removed the tang with a long pick from both sides of the turbo. I used a pry bar to gently wiggle both lines out of where it sat. Be patient. I am a novice and it took 1.5 days to do the passenger side. Breaks here and there. The best of luck! Tomorrow I will ...the drivers side closest to the wheel well and the block side, like in this video.
You will need 1 long pry bar to get the coolant line back into the inner turbo side and 2 pry bars to get the coolant line closest to the outer side of the wheel...one to push it down, the other to align it in place. I put 1 pry bar up against the exhaust manifold for centering while the other pry bar pressed down it into place...both fittings with the tangs in place. Careful when you put the exhaust flange back with 2 bolts...if you do that first...you run the risk of messing up the turbo exhaust bolts...as they will not have wiggle room (3 bolts). Good luck!
Thank you for posting this. I was able to do the job in 3 hours without removing the fender liner. You are right about the e clip not holding the line in the block fitting. Knowing this gave me the confidence to pull on it without removing the clip and sure enough, it came right out.
Thanks for your advice not to put the block fitting in, after struggling for a couple hours trying to get the turbo side in, I removed it and did like you said at the end of your video and the turbo end snapped right in....job is time consuming and tough but doable.
I just done this job this weekend and it’s a knuckle busting, arm twisting, neck stretching, pain in the ass. To top that off one of the studs for the turbo downpipe broke on me. I now know why Ford says to remove the cab for this job!
So I have a 2017 Lariat with and 3.5 Eco boost. I found the leak on the drivers side. I am going to take a look at the line and if it's not corroded I am just going to try and replace the fitting on the turbo and keep the line and the fitting in the bock in place. I know that removing the line from the fitting on the turbo might FUBAR the block fitting seal but going to give a shot to see what happens. FYI got a quote from the Ford Dealer and it's $2,200 per side to replace the fittings. That will buy a lot of Guinness so going to give it a shot. I will post my results when I finish.
Brought my 2015 Transit 3.5 eco to the mechanic for a slow coolant leak somewhere. He told me one of my rear turbo lines has condensation on it and is prob causing the slow coolant leak. He told me unfortunately it was going to be roughly 8 hrs labor to get to and would cost around 1300 to replace all the lines. I do have 304k miles on the van.
Doing this right now. Didn’t test the back side pipe to the turbo and torqued up everything just for it to leak when I put coolant in. Really defeated today…
Heys dudes. I’m a Toyota tech but my parents have a 15 Ford expedition. I had everything to pull the turbo etc but found this video follow what he says. For the driver side line that runs towards the front and goes into the block. It’s really not that bad granted I have a lift and a top side creeper after getting it clipped into the turbo. And going to clip into the block you may have to use a long screwdriver to guide it into the block (then tighten the bolt down. Follow torque specs. The top line that runs from the top to the back of the head can be serviced threw the fender well then you have to go up and remove the intake manifold/ coolant cross over for the very top fitting. Ford makes this sound like the end of the world. It’s not. I would say it took my a hour. The included filling torque specs. And a test drive. Book time is 3.5 to remove the turbo. Those times I meant to beat by at least half. A new tech will run the full 3.5 hrs
If you take all the crap off the top of the motor you can get to that other coolant line you were talking about I've had to replace it before you cannot see where it goes but you can stick your hand back there and you can feel it
Mine is the passenger side and the bolt for the bracket is behind the air conditioner lines and it connects to the air compressor what do I need to do???
Has anyone done this on a 2018 transit 250 3.5? I need to do the passenger side. It’s leaking where it goes into the block. Just from quick glance it looks like the compressor would need to be moved? Also my fender wells are solid metal so no access that way.
Did my passenger side, had to remove the turbo. Need to do driver side. I was pretty sure I didn’t need to pull the turbo, so this reassured me. Thanks!
@@prestonmarx7716 yes, I did remove the passenger mainly because it is very hard to remove the line from the side of the block. You could try not removing it and see if it’s possible. I just removed it.
So you sounded hesitant about doing it again. If someone insisted on doing it themselves, would you suggest just pulling the whole turbo instead? And then maybe just "while you're at it" replace the other seals too. It almost sounded like one of those times that you just know you can replace your alternator without removing the radiator fan. But then you're struggling for an extra 20 minutes busting your knuckles on it, and then you realize it was probably worth the extra 10 minutes it would have taken to just remove it to begin with.
If the leak was only on the turbo fitting, did you ever consider just changing that fitting, and leaving the other one in place. I have seen a comment maybe on another video where someone said they were able to get that fitting replaced and leave the other end still connected. They said they had just enough room to pull it out of the fitting, pop the new one in and then seat it back in. I noticed your other end was corroded some, so probably good you changed it, but I was just curious if you thought about that approach (or anyone reading this comment).
I just did this yesterday and yes what you said is true.. it’s still a PITA but doable. I just did the bottom fitting and was lucky I didn’t damage the tube.
I just bought a 17 navigator and got the 4yr 40k mile bumper to bumper from ford. I found this leak and pissed because they should have seen it too when they inspected it and sold it to me. Anyway, I gotta see if they will cover this under the warranty and if not, I will make them look like a bunch of chumps.
Did you have to drain the coolant? I replaced the two fittings , but I removed the turbo. Put it all back together, I still had a small leak on the the turbo fitting. I don’t want to take the turbo Off again
Things to consider before doing this job.... 1) If you are like me with no 8-year-old around, it will require SUPREME patience finagling both fittings into place (like borderline screaming while under the truck). 2) TAKE OFF DRIVER FRONT WHEEL AND WHEEL WELL, I'm not sure if this guy did or not but I quite literally think this job would be impossible w/o doing it, makes it MUCH easier seeing the engine side fitting/t45 torque bolt. 3) Plan for at least a day w/o your truck, this job start to finish (with removal of turbo pipes, wheel well, skid plate, etc.) was 6ish hours (for me). **All in all, this job f*cking sucks. Pay someone to do this job to save headache and to know it's done right. There is a reason some ford techs remove the cab from the frame to do this job. But if you are strapped for cash either follow this video, or deal with your coolant leaking lol, I am about a week past this job and I officially do not leak coolant anymore, Yay me!
I have a passenger side coolant leak and yes I can smell it in the cabin quite strong. Not exactly sure if it's coming through the vents or the firewall though. After shutting down the engine hot I can see a small amount of steam coming off the passenger side turbo.
There’s a coolant leak on my truck (‘19 3.5) it does not leak all the time, mostly on cold nights. I find the drip spots just right by the front passenger tire, rear side of tire. And I’m thinking it’s from one of the hoses for the heater core that’s in the firewall. But after seeing this video, could it be my turbo? Would it drip in the same spot I mentioned, I did feel a tiny bit of wetness off the lower hose but still unsure if that’s the leak point
the coolant runs wherever it drips on so its possible yes its really easy to see you just climb under the truck and look at the turbos and feel with your fingers for wetness if you cant visually see it but 9-10 youll see it if its the turbos
thank you for this video but respectfully and understandably i hope i never watch it again, this job made me the angriest i’ve ever been while working on my truck
My 2018 F150 with the 3.5L just blew all the coolant out of nowhere driving down the highway. The first warning I received was the blinking "ENGINE OVERHEATING" light in the dash. I immediately stopped, refilled the coolant/water but then the engine wouldn't start. I have all kinds of warning signals going off and the truck is acting like the battery is dead. Tried unplugging the battery and reseting the computer but it didn't work. Tried jumping the battery still didn't work. I actually think the leak came from the hose right up top in the driver's side because it sprayed fluid all over the wiring harnesses by the brake box. I'm at a loss now. Any ideas? I also tested the alternator and it's good but the truck won't start. I'm afraid it seized up but it only ran two miles overheating. Oh and I paid $3800 for an extended warranty to cover everything up to 75,000 miles but I just passed 87,000 and now this🤬
Does it crank with a no start or starter jams up and won't turn engine? Hate to even say this, but maybe pull your spark plugs and try turning it over....
@KravasGarage so tested the starter outside the engine, and it's good, and while testing it, I charged the battery. The truck finally started, thank God! 🙌 But the coolant leak was up top on the driver's side. Idk the name of the part in the hose, but that piece came apart and blew coolant all over the driver's side. I guess maybe the battery was already low, and after I had the hood up for a little while, it just died, and that's why it wouldn't start? 🤷♂️ It's just odd timing, but it's a 2018 with 87k miles on the original battery, I think, so it's about time to get one anyway. I just bought the truck in 2020 with 33k miles on it.
@KravasGarage indeed! I was worried about that or that I actually seized the damn motor up, but it was running when I shut it off, so I figured it wasn't. Now I've gotta address the dreaded 3.5L oil leak 🤦♂️
That's the only one you can do like that out of the 4, and you're correct, it's an ass pain to do it by yourself. You definitely don't want to try that on the right side LOL. I do all 4 lines and all 8 fittings on every one that comes in here no matter how many are leaking. I've done em in the truck, turbos aint to bad, but those 2 fittings in the back of the head.....bring smoke on anybodys ass. I pull the cab off now, takes about 5 hrs start to finish for both sides.
@@KravasGarage that’s what I have. I have had a broken exhaust stud repaired and there was some performance loss then. I plan on replacing these fittings eventually
Used a long pic to remove the c-clip at the turbo side (no need to remove at the engine side) unbolted the mounting tab up front, used a pry bar to pull the line out of the motor side, then out of turbo, used a ratchet with a shallow socket to remove both the fittings.
Curious how you discovered this is where the leak was. Did you run a pressure test? I may have same thing going on but have not yet run pressure test. Would like to know if that will give me correct diagnosis.
@@KravasGarage thanks chief. And I'm not a motorhead at all so freakin out about this. I can smell coolant after I park but no puddling on pavement. Does that simply mean the coolant is evaporating while its dripping onto hot engine parts? I've seen a video on UA-cam mentioning a potential leak from pipe that resides on the overflow tank. My last oil change the person mentioned my overflow was well below the cold line. In your opinion will the coolant pressure test tell me where my leak is located?
@@Smokkedandslammed After a shop visit I found out early stages of water pump leakage. As soon as I saw something accumulating on my drive I didn't wait. My shop guy gave me estimate of 2 hours swapping water pump...out the door at $521. But added I'll need to change valve cover gaskets soon too. Uuuuggghhhh...he says about 6 hours on that one. HELP!!!! Also have seen small oil dripping underneath.
@@markhofer9493 $521 sounds about right for 2hrs of labor and parts, plus you get a warranty of work (hopefully) if he does it. Valve cover gaskets aren't too bad, just a lot of taking things off and putting them back on for a good handful of hours but definitely doable if you want to save some cash and do it yourself. Think of it as it giant lego set! 😁 Also, get a second opinion on the valve cover gaskets just to be sure if you've let him know you're not mechanically inclined just in case 👍
I have a 2013 3.5 ecoboost. I have to change the passenger side turbo coolant line that runs from the side of turbo to the block by ac compressor.. what do you think the easiest way would be to replace without pulling turbo off? Already replaced manifold, turbos and all the fittings and lines.. just don’t want to take stuff apart so the connections don’t get disturbed…
@@edanderson924replaced both sides manifolds, turbos, all coolant and oil lines, all coolant fittings (just not the one by the compressor as it was stripped into the head) and turbo oil fittings. Not too bad of a job but my hands were bruised after the work was done. lol
@@edanderson924 it’s not bad. I had to redo the job because I installed the turbo oil seal thing backwards and it blew out both of the turbos. There are so many tips I can give you with this job to make it easier. If you want my email let me know that way you can ask questions if you get stuck. One of the rear coolant fittings on back of head can be remove thru the wheel well and the other one can be removed from the top. By removing the intake manifold to get to it. Your hands will get bruised and bloodied lol
Because they are going to pull the fender well and turbo off to do it. This way is not easy and a pain in the assss! I did it and when I put coolant in it leaked out of the front fitting on the block. Even with the bolt tightened all the way down it is not seating the line into the fitting enough. Going to buy a new line tomorrow and start all over.
Dude, used this video 2 years ago to do my first one. Doing again on a different truck today. Thank you so much for making this, couldn't do it without it!
I removed the back of the block fitting drivers side coming from the top of engine with a 19mm open wrench with line and clip still attached. You have to unclip the line to the top of turbo first. Then you can pull the line out and remove the clip.
I have a 2017 Expedition with a 3.5 litter engine. I had both driver and
passenger leaks. I started with the passenger. You will need a really
good light, preferably with a rotating magnet. Remove negative battery
cable. Jack up car, jack stands for safety, removed the upper inner
wheel well...lots of plastic tabs and 5.5 mm socket...maybe even 8
mm...or 10 mm. Remove the engine plastic tabs closest to the front of
the car. I also removed one of the air intakes that leads to the turbo
and loosened the other one to have more turbo wiggle room later. I had
both turbo fittings leaking. I half took off the turbo. Changed both
while off. I removed 3 nuts off starter, not the electrical connections.
I removed the 2 exhaust bolts. I removed the 3 manifold bolts. You will
need to get the 3 manifold bolts and the triangular manifold gasket if
you don't want to reuse the old ones. I got 3 manifold bolts and the
gasket. Remove the 2 bolts to the oil line. I did not fully remove it. I
was able to wiggle the turbo loose to where I could change both turbo
fittings. Wear gloves if you don't want finger cuts when handling the
exhaust part of the turbo. You will need a 3/8ths 45 torx and 50 torx.
Also long extensions and a wobble extensions...and universal joint
sockets, both 3/8 and 1/2 inch.... They helped. Be careful with the
brake lines as they are near when wiggling the turbo out. Once
everything was loose I removed the tang with a long pick from both sides
of the turbo. I used a pry bar to gently wiggle both lines out of where
it sat. Be patient. I am a novice and it took 1.5 days to do the
passenger side. Breaks here and there. The best of luck! Tomorrow I will
...the drivers side closest to the wheel well and the block side, like in this video.
You will need 1 long pry bar to get the coolant line back into the inner turbo side and 2 pry bars to get the coolant line closest to the outer side of the wheel...one to push it down, the other to align it in place. I put 1 pry bar up against the exhaust manifold for centering while the other pry bar pressed down it into place...both fittings with the tangs in place. Careful when you put the exhaust flange back with 2 bolts...if you do that first...you run the risk of messing up the turbo exhaust bolts...as they will not have wiggle room (3 bolts). Good luck!
Thank you for posting this. I was able to do the job in 3 hours without removing the fender liner. You are right about the e clip not holding the line in the block fitting. Knowing this gave me the confidence to pull on it without removing the clip and sure enough, it came right out.
How far in does the line go into the fitting? Putting it back in and I cannot get the flare close to the fitting.
Thanks for your advice not to put the block fitting in, after struggling for a couple hours trying to get the turbo side in, I removed it and did like you said at the end of your video and the turbo end snapped right in....job is time consuming and tough but doable.
Haha. I love that you got your son to help get the fitting started! Way to go! Thanks for the video
I just done this job this weekend and it’s a knuckle busting, arm twisting, neck stretching, pain in the ass. To top that off one of the studs for the turbo downpipe broke on me. I now know why Ford says to remove the cab for this job!
If you did it his way, why did you remove the Downpipe?
So I have a 2017 Lariat with and 3.5 Eco boost. I found the leak on the drivers side. I am going to take a look at the line and if it's not corroded I am just going to try and replace the fitting on the turbo and keep the line and the fitting in the bock in place. I know that removing the line from the fitting on the turbo might FUBAR the block fitting seal but going to give a shot to see what happens. FYI got a quote from the Ford Dealer and it's $2,200 per side to replace the fittings. That will buy a lot of Guinness so going to give it a shot. I will post my results when I finish.
Were you able to use old line?? How long did it take?
Thank you sr for the information. I am happy I won’t have to drop the turbo to do it .👍🏻
Brought my 2015 Transit 3.5 eco to the mechanic for a slow coolant leak somewhere. He told me one of my rear turbo lines has condensation on it and is prob causing the slow coolant leak. He told me unfortunately it was going to be roughly 8 hrs labor to get to and would cost around 1300 to replace all the lines. I do have 304k miles on the van.
That sounds like a good deal.
Thanks man. I'm taking suggestion- pay someone to do it. What a PITA.
Read my comment above
O-rings on a turbo. Brilliant.
Doing this right now. Didn’t test the back side pipe to the turbo and torqued up everything just for it to leak when I put coolant in. Really defeated today…
I'm looking at having to do this. The cheapest shop in town quoted 1,700 in labor. So I'm stuck having to attempt this winter. Wish me luck!!
Did you end up doing it?
Heys dudes. I’m a Toyota tech but my parents have a 15 Ford expedition. I had everything to pull the turbo etc but found this video follow what he says. For the driver side line that runs towards the front and goes into the block. It’s really not that bad granted I have a lift and a top side creeper after getting it clipped into the turbo. And going to clip into the block you may have to use a long screwdriver to guide it into the block (then tighten the bolt down. Follow torque specs. The top line that runs from the top to the back of the head can be serviced threw the fender well then you have to go up and remove the intake manifold/ coolant cross over for the very top fitting. Ford makes this sound like the end of the world. It’s not. I would say it took my a hour. The included filling torque specs. And a test drive. Book time is 3.5 to remove the turbo. Those times I meant to beat by at least half. A new tech will run the full 3.5 hrs
Don’t suppose you have the torque specs handy would ya? About to tackle this on Friday night/Saturday
Would using AN fittings and flexible coolant line make this easier? Im thinking of buying a kit from Full race.
If you take all the crap off the top of the motor you can get to that other coolant line you were talking about I've had to replace it before you cannot see where it goes but you can stick your hand back there and you can feel it
How did you get the turbo side to snap down? I’m doing mine tomorrow.
Mine is the passenger side and the bolt for the bracket is behind the air conditioner lines and it connects to the air compressor what do I need to do???
Has anyone done this on a 2018 transit 250 3.5? I need to do the passenger side. It’s leaking where it goes into the block. Just from quick glance it looks like the compressor would need to be moved? Also my fender wells are solid metal so no access that way.
Nice job.
Do you suggest replacing the tube lines or only fittings ?
Thanks for the info, I am getting ready to do this tomorrow.
my local dealership is quoting $3,850.78 to "replace all turbo coolant fittings and lines as well as replace manifolds if necessary".
Absolutely insane
Did my passenger side, had to remove the turbo. Need to do driver side. I was pretty sure I didn’t need to pull the turbo, so this reassured me. Thanks!
When u did passenger side which on did u do?
@@prestonmarx7716 did both fittings on passenger side. Driver side I didn’t have to remove the turbo. But be crafty on installing the upper fitting.
@@johnmichaelkoosbreazeal9748 ahh so u did remove passenger side? Just gathering information before I try this out myself
@@prestonmarx7716 yes, I did remove the passenger mainly because it is very hard to remove the line from the side of the block. You could try not removing it and see if it’s possible. I just removed it.
@@prestonmarx7716 it’s just the fittings are reversed from the driver side making it harder if that makes sense.
So you sounded hesitant about doing it again. If someone insisted on doing it themselves, would you suggest just pulling the whole turbo instead? And then maybe just "while you're at it" replace the other seals too. It almost sounded like one of those times that you just know you can replace your alternator without removing the radiator fan. But then you're struggling for an extra 20 minutes busting your knuckles on it, and then you realize it was probably worth the extra 10 minutes it would have taken to just remove it to begin with.
If the leak was only on the turbo fitting, did you ever consider just changing that fitting, and leaving the other one in place. I have seen a comment maybe on another video where someone said they were able to get that fitting replaced and leave the other end still connected. They said they had just enough room to pull it out of the fitting, pop the new one in and then seat it back in. I noticed your other end was corroded some, so probably good you changed it, but I was just curious if you thought about that approach (or anyone reading this comment).
I just did this yesterday and yes what you said is true.. it’s still a PITA but doable. I just did the bottom fitting and was lucky I didn’t damage the tube.
how did you get the coolant line to snap back into the connecter on the turbo
What can I expect the cost to be at a service center.
Do you know what the part number is for the passenger side?
I just bought a 17 navigator and got the 4yr 40k mile bumper to bumper from ford. I found this leak and pissed because they should have seen it too when they inspected it and sold it to me. Anyway, I gotta see if they will cover this under the warranty and if not, I will make them look like a bunch of chumps.
Would this be the same on a Lincoln Mks with the same engine. I have a leak I can't find.
How did you remove the bolt holding the coolant pipe in place
Did this today was able to get my hands in there but I have extremely long fingers lmao
Did you have to drain the coolant? I replaced the two fittings , but I removed the turbo. Put it all back together, I still had a small leak on the the turbo fitting. I don’t want to take the turbo
Off again
Things to consider before doing this job.... 1) If you are like me with no 8-year-old around, it will require SUPREME patience finagling both fittings into place (like borderline screaming while under the truck). 2) TAKE OFF DRIVER FRONT WHEEL AND WHEEL WELL, I'm not sure if this guy did or not but I quite literally think this job would be impossible w/o doing it, makes it MUCH easier seeing the engine side fitting/t45 torque bolt. 3) Plan for at least a day w/o your truck, this job start to finish (with removal of turbo pipes, wheel well, skid plate, etc.) was 6ish hours (for me). **All in all, this job f*cking sucks. Pay someone to do this job to save headache and to know it's done right. There is a reason some ford techs remove the cab from the frame to do this job. But if you are strapped for cash either follow this video, or deal with your coolant leaking lol, I am about a week past this job and I officially do not leak coolant anymore, Yay me!
Good job bro
The T45 whipped me for a few, I was tried a 6,5 and 5.5 and was like wtf, started on torx and had no issues, had me frustrated for a few minutes lol
Do you know the part number for the coolant line fittings on the turbo (especially the back one)?
BL3Z6A968C coolant fitting on turbo, 2 are needed.
What's the size of the turbo nut?
Thank you
Did you have a smell come through your vents/heater
I have a passenger side coolant leak and yes I can smell it in the cabin quite strong. Not exactly sure if it's coming through the vents or the firewall though. After shutting down the engine hot I can see a small amount of steam coming off the passenger side turbo.
There’s a coolant leak on my truck (‘19 3.5) it does not leak all the time, mostly on cold nights. I find the drip spots just right by the front passenger tire, rear side of tire. And I’m thinking it’s from one of the hoses for the heater core that’s in the firewall. But after seeing this video, could it be my turbo? Would it drip in the same spot I mentioned, I did feel a tiny bit of wetness off the lower hose but still unsure if that’s the leak point
the coolant runs wherever it drips on so its possible yes its really easy to see you just climb under the truck and look at the turbos and feel with your fingers for wetness if you cant visually see it but 9-10 youll see it if its the turbos
can this be the cause of oil in the coolant reservoir?
thank you for this video but respectfully and understandably i hope i never watch it again, this job made me the angriest i’ve ever been while working on my truck
Lol. Think of it as a puzzle.
what a bad ass thank you
Damn. Came here for the passenger rear.
My 2018 F150 with the 3.5L just blew all the coolant out of nowhere driving down the highway. The first warning I received was the blinking "ENGINE OVERHEATING" light in the dash.
I immediately stopped, refilled the coolant/water but then the engine wouldn't start. I have all kinds of warning signals going off and the truck is acting like the battery is dead. Tried unplugging the battery and reseting the computer but it didn't work. Tried jumping the battery still didn't work. I actually think the leak came from the hose right up top in the driver's side because it sprayed fluid all over the wiring harnesses by the brake box. I'm at a loss now. Any ideas?
I also tested the alternator and it's good but the truck won't start. I'm afraid it seized up but it only ran two miles overheating.
Oh and I paid $3800 for an extended warranty to cover everything up to 75,000 miles but I just passed 87,000 and now this🤬
Does it crank with a no start or starter jams up and won't turn engine? Hate to even say this, but maybe pull your spark plugs and try turning it over....
@KravasGarage so tested the starter outside the engine, and it's good, and while testing it, I charged the battery. The truck finally started, thank God! 🙌
But the coolant leak was up top on the driver's side. Idk the name of the part in the hose, but that piece came apart and blew coolant all over the driver's side.
I guess maybe the battery was already low, and after I had the hood up for a little while, it just died, and that's why it wouldn't start? 🤷♂️
It's just odd timing, but it's a 2018 with 87k miles on the original battery, I think, so it's about time to get one anyway. I just bought the truck in 2020 with 33k miles on it.
@@DavidMccallister65 well that's far better than I was worried it might be! (Blown headgasket)!! Glad you got it figured out!!
@KravasGarage indeed! I was worried about that or that I actually seized the damn motor up, but it was running when I shut it off, so I figured it wasn't. Now I've gotta address the dreaded 3.5L oil leak 🤦♂️
That's the only one you can do like that out of the 4, and you're correct, it's an ass pain to do it by yourself. You definitely don't want to try that on the right side LOL. I do all 4 lines and all 8 fittings on every one that comes in here no matter how many are leaking. I've done em in the truck, turbos aint to bad, but those 2 fittings in the back of the head.....bring smoke on anybodys ass. I pull the cab off now, takes about 5 hrs start to finish for both sides.
Curious how much out the door does it cost your customers md what are average mileages?
@@bigpicturethinking5620 bout 1500 for the complete job.
What area do you live in? Hoping ga! I bought the revised manifold and already have the turbo coolant fittings. Would gladly pay you to do this ha
@@jason91205 I'm on TN/AL line due north of Huntsville
I'd gladly pay that.
Is there a performance loss associated with the coolant leak?
I didn't experience any loss in performance, just an annoying little puddle of coolant!
@@KravasGarage that’s what I have. I have had a broken exhaust stud repaired and there was some performance loss then. I plan on replacing these fittings eventually
How did you remove the coolant line and connector from turbo?
Used a long pic to remove the c-clip at the turbo side (no need to remove at the engine side) unbolted the mounting tab up front, used a pry bar to pull the line out of the motor side, then out of turbo, used a ratchet with a shallow socket to remove both the fittings.
Curious how you discovered this is where the leak was. Did you run a pressure test? I may have same thing going on but have not yet run pressure test. Would like to know if that will give me correct diagnosis.
Yes you can run a pressure test, I just crawled under while it was still under pressure from running and was able to locate it pretty easy.
@@KravasGarage thanks chief. And I'm not a motorhead at all so freakin out about this. I can smell coolant after I park but no puddling on pavement. Does that simply mean the coolant is evaporating while its dripping onto hot engine parts? I've seen a video on UA-cam mentioning a potential leak from pipe that resides on the overflow tank. My last oil change the person mentioned my overflow was well below the cold line. In your opinion will the coolant pressure test tell me where my leak is located?
@@markhofer9493 Check the elbow on the bottom overflow tank, see if that's leaking, thats a common problem as well for coolant leaks.
@@Smokkedandslammed After a shop visit I found out early stages of water pump leakage. As soon as I saw something accumulating on my drive I didn't wait. My shop guy gave me estimate of 2 hours swapping water pump...out the door at $521. But added I'll need to change valve cover gaskets soon too. Uuuuggghhhh...he says about 6 hours on that one. HELP!!!! Also have seen small oil dripping underneath.
@@markhofer9493 $521 sounds about right for 2hrs of labor and parts, plus you get a warranty of work (hopefully) if he does it. Valve cover gaskets aren't too bad, just a lot of taking things off and putting them back on for a good handful of hours but definitely doable if you want to save some cash and do it yourself. Think of it as it giant lego set! 😁 Also, get a second opinion on the valve cover gaskets just to be sure if you've let him know you're not mechanically inclined just in case 👍
I have a 2013 3.5 ecoboost. I have to change the passenger side turbo coolant line that runs from the side of turbo to the block by ac compressor.. what do you think the easiest way would be to replace without pulling turbo off? Already replaced manifold, turbos and all the fittings and lines.. just don’t want to take stuff apart so the connections don’t get disturbed…
So how did it go?
@@edanderson924replaced both sides manifolds, turbos, all coolant and oil lines, all coolant fittings (just not the one by the compressor as it was stripped into the head) and turbo oil fittings. Not too bad of a job but my hands were bruised after the work was done. lol
Thanks for the answer I'm about to dive into it
@@edanderson924 it’s not bad. I had to redo the job because I installed the turbo oil seal thing backwards and it blew out both of the turbos. There are so many tips I can give you with this job to make it easier. If you want my email let me know that way you can ask questions if you get stuck. One of the rear coolant fittings on back of head can be remove thru the wheel well and the other one can be removed from the top. By removing the intake manifold to get to it. Your hands will get bruised and bloodied lol
@@danielmarjanovic9957 👍🏿
Well, damn, I’ve got a leak on the rear of the engine.
LOL, thats adorable.
Me too at 151,000 miles, but on the passenger side. Is your son busy? 🤣
I poured bars stop leak in 3 months ago and still holding 🤞🏻
Those connections are horrible engineering!
Pretty sure mine is doing this, what a PITA, not looking forward to it
They want to charge me 6.5 hour labor scum bag ford mechanic lmao
Because they are going to pull the fender well and turbo off to do it. This way is not easy and a pain in the assss! I did it and when I put coolant in it leaked out of the front fitting on the block. Even with the bolt tightened all the way down it is not seating the line into the fitting enough. Going to buy a new line tomorrow and start all over.
Did you end up doing it quicker?
k-seal
same idiots designed the two water pumps