I have the identical unit at home, only it is Called Stamos S-LS-17. But it came with 11 different tips and a bunch of different extras like IC extractors, tweezers and the like. Even a table mounted magnifying glass with lights. I recommend starting with the smallest nozzle though. It will give you the greatest control. Heating up a big area all at once is tricky business as you can easily damage other parts, so sweeping a thinner airflow over the desired solder points will save you some grief. And practice a lot on already trashed boards just to get the hang of desoldering and resoldering. When you think you get the hang of it, then practice three times longer. Also, get some flux to cover an area you want to resolder, and that takes a lot of practice to feel confident with.
Thank you for posting this! I was looking at this model and really hoped I'd find some reviews before purchasing. I've also been watching a lot of Louis Rossmann and iPad Rehab with Jessa; those two crack me up!
Yep, he is very good, at trouble shooting as well. He is good at what he does. He does recommend the Hakko FX-951 Soldering Station and Hakko FX801 station. But like you said, yes they are not cheap. I have just bought similar one to you. Still waiting for mine.
They make these units under numerous brands. Same unit. Just make sure the hot mains wire is on the fuse and switch. Alot are neutral switched and fused. Of course that is a shock and fire hazard and needs to be addressed before using it much. Nice units.
I agree, but as long as you don't open the unit, there should be no problem. Changing wire around may not be good idea. Perhaps someone can make a video of that.
Just a warning, another video of a variant of this unit showed that the incoming mains lead inside was fused and switched in the neutral line. So be careful if yours is the same.
Good stuff! Although I've outgrown this station myself these days, I still think it's a great place to start. For retro stuff where it's large footprint or through-hole, it'll be just fine!
Everyone mounts the hot holder backwards LOL They picture the hot in the holder with the outlet facing you and then everyone sticks in the holder outlet facing away. If you look on the holder bracket you can turn it 180 so the hot air unit well sit properly in the holder and always trigger the sleep function.
nice vid. i have been checking out louis rossman also and he has made me want to get into micro soldering, i might even consider getting a rework station
How long did this unit last you? Did you ever have any issues with it? I just ordered one and I'm curious about it's durability and longevity, etc.. Is there anything I should look out for? Any tips or info about it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Here you go. Mine went bad the first time I used the hot air gun. I have no affiliation to seller. ttps://www.ebay.com/itm/878D-853D-898D-882-862-Soldering-Brushless-Station-Hot-Air-Gun-Heating-Element/331789929139?hash=item4d40388ab3:g:MwoAAOSwa0VaB
I purchased this station better than anything I'd had not a electronics whizz so didn't want to spend 100s of pounds on something I may never be able to master. But broken stuff is everywhere to try fix
I'm sure you figured this out by now but if you put the hot air gun in the holder it will automatically lower the heat to 100C while the air blows to cool the heating element and then shut down. When you pick it up again it will turn back on and heat up quickly.
I am starting to realize that the soldering gun is in Fahrenheit and the heat gun is in Celsius. My soldering I need 368. The heat gun I was bear that temp and it was way too hot. I have it melting solder at 260c. I need to get the fan speed down more. When I had both up the heat gun was melting solder in different areas I didn't need. I still need to practice with fan speed to. So, I keep the heat from covering too much. 😀
whey im back to the first video of yours i came across , i got so side tracked with your previous back catalogue of videos i forgot to watch the video that brought me here this one , i will be buying this after finally watching its a massive step up from a soldering iron , weirdly i found a soldering iron almost identical to yours in my Grandad's garage over weekend i had to have it lol its has a well tip on it too which are good for SMD work according to some videos ive seen , anyway thanks again .
They sell the brass and even copper ones in most supermarkets where I live, one of those baby food glass jars are perfect if you add some gel flux to the pad, I don't mix flux to the pad anymore and it works fine without the clouds of fumes
Hi, i have the same unit as you do. But the brand name my unit has is Zeny. I need a replacement soldering iron. Do you know where i can find one. Hope to hear from you soon. Many thanks in advance
Don't forget the transit screws or you will damage the pump...it would seem that these come in a variety of guises....quality seems adequate for price.....BUT one thing I have been told and that is to look inside the unit as the fuse on some is on the negative line and not the positive (bad practice) take a look and let me know.......will do mine tomorrow too.....
Ok i also have another question here I have some wires here that I want to add connectors onto them but forgot the name of what they call those connectors to crimp the connectors onto the wires with tool as well
Another version of their rework station had dangerous malfunctions. Check out the reviews on amazon : www.amazon.com/WEP-858D-Soldering-Station-Suitable/product-reviews/B0055B6NGE Before using this further, I would seriously pop it open and make sure it doesn't have the same issues as the 858D. Quoting here: You may have read other reviews of this item or other 858D clones. The reviews about the neutral and hot being reversed. This one had it as well. Before I even plugged this thing in I opened it up did a safety inspection and bigger than doughnuts the neutral was fused and switched as well as the hot just going straight in to the control board without any fusing what so ever! But this is an easy fix believe it or not. all you have to do is cut off the heat shrink wrapping on the fuse terminal where the neutral is connected to and un-solder it. Then cut the heatshrink on the other connection where the hot is connected to and un-solder that as well. SWAP THEM and re-solder and heatshrink them. Safety issue now fixed. There is possibly another issue that you need to be aware of and its in the heater area so take that apart and inspect it. The problem you may or may not encounter here is that the grounding cable to the heat shield may be incorrectly setup and will touch the heater element. If you have this...BAD JUJU! So check to see that the grounding wire and tab is securely UNDER the mica wrapping and that it ohms out to ground. also, check that little circuit board area for bad/cold solder joints and dress those up if needed. I didnt have any but you may not be so lucky. Either way, inspect it thoroughly to verify. After the repair and safety check, I plugged it in and turned it on. No arky-sparky and no magic smoke. It gets hot quick and goes into stand-by mode when you put it in the cradle. Everything works as advertised. TL;DR----> DO NOT PLUG THIS THING IN UNTIL YOU DO A COMPLETE SAFETY CHECK AND VERIFY THAT THE HOT-NEUTRAL ARE NOT SWAPPED. FIX IT AND CHECK FOR OTHER SHORTS! Then test it out and it should work really well.
More relevant is the heat sink properties to which the component is mounted. Usually, preheating the board minimizes the direct heat necessarily needed to be applied to the component.
I have the identical unit at home, only it is Called Stamos S-LS-17. But it came with 11 different tips and a bunch of different extras like IC extractors, tweezers and the like. Even a table mounted magnifying glass with lights. I recommend starting with the smallest nozzle though. It will give you the greatest control. Heating up a big area all at once is tricky business as you can easily damage other parts, so sweeping a thinner airflow over the desired solder points will save you some grief. And practice a lot on already trashed boards just to get the hang of desoldering and resoldering. When you think you get the hang of it, then practice three times longer. Also, get some flux to cover an area you want to resolder, and that takes a lot of practice to feel confident with.
Thank you for posting this! I was looking at this model and really hoped I'd find some reviews before purchasing. I've also been watching a lot of Louis Rossmann and iPad Rehab with Jessa; those two crack me up!
Yep, he is very good, at trouble shooting as well. He is good at what he does. He does recommend the Hakko FX-951 Soldering Station and Hakko FX801 station. But like you said, yes they are not cheap. I have just bought similar one to you. Still waiting for mine.
When you turn off the air station the air keeps flowing, to cool the tip down (this is correct)
Thanks mate. I've been looking over dozens of systems for a week now and I think I'll settle on this one. £60 is a steal, even for a cheapy
They make these units under numerous brands. Same unit. Just make sure the hot mains wire is on the fuse and switch. Alot are neutral switched and fused. Of course that is a shock and fire hazard and needs to be addressed before using it much. Nice units.
I agree, but as long as you don't open the unit, there should be no problem. Changing wire around may not be good idea. Perhaps someone can make a video of that.
remember flux is your friend.
Just ordered this air station on eBay. My first one, cant wait for it to come!
Edward Tsema hello there $36 dollars on eBay how it is I will buying let me now how is good ?
how is it holding up so far?
Just a warning, another video of a variant of this unit showed that the incoming mains lead inside was fused and switched in the neutral line. So be careful if yours is the same.
english plz for us new to soldering
Does that mean the fuse wouldnt have blown if there had been a problem with the unit ?
@@soundsys33 no...it just means it was wired the wong way round...Acording to what hes saying...
Just picked up a similar station. Going to do a video of using it on my channel. Will come in handy for the retro consoles I work on.
Good stuff! Although I've outgrown this station myself these days, I still think it's a great place to start.
For retro stuff where it's large footprint or through-hole, it'll be just fine!
@@Adamant_IT thanks for the reply. I went for a slightly newer and higher model. Gave it a blast earlier and much better than my standard iron.
Everyone mounts the hot holder backwards LOL They picture the hot in the holder with the outlet facing you and then everyone sticks in the holder outlet facing away. If you look on the holder bracket you can turn it 180 so the hot air unit well sit properly in the holder and always trigger the sleep function.
nice vid. i have been checking out louis rossman also and he has made me want to get into micro soldering, i might even consider getting a rework station
How long did this unit last you? Did you ever have any issues with it? I just ordered one and I'm curious about it's durability and longevity, etc.. Is there anything I should look out for? Any tips or info about it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
I like this rework station but can't find anywhere to get spare parts heating element for heat gun or soldering iron.
Here you go. Mine went bad the first time I used the hot air gun. I have no affiliation to seller.
ttps://www.ebay.com/itm/878D-853D-898D-882-862-Soldering-Brushless-Station-Hot-Air-Gun-Heating-Element/331789929139?hash=item4d40388ab3:g:MwoAAOSwa0VaB
I purchased this station better than anything I'd had not a electronics whizz so didn't want to spend 100s of pounds on something I may never be able to master. But broken stuff is everywhere to try fix
I'm sure you figured this out by now but if you put the hot air gun in the holder it will automatically lower the heat to 100C while the air blows to cool the heating element and then shut down. When you pick it up again it will turn back on and heat up quickly.
I am starting to realize that the soldering gun is in Fahrenheit and the heat gun is in Celsius. My soldering I need 368. The heat gun I was bear that temp and it was way too hot. I have it melting solder at 260c. I need to get the fan speed down more. When I had both up the heat gun was melting solder in different areas I didn't need. I still need to practice with fan speed to. So, I keep the heat from covering too much. 😀
when using hot air station you want less airflow, about the same heat and smaller tip, also preheat the surrounding before moving in on a component
did it come with the ic extractor ? cuz i mine didn't
whey im back to the first video of yours i came across , i got so side tracked with your previous back catalogue of videos i forgot to watch the video that brought me here this one , i will be buying this after finally watching its a massive step up from a soldering iron , weirdly i found a soldering iron almost identical to yours in my Grandad's garage over weekend i had to have it lol its has a well tip on it too which are good for SMD work according to some videos ive seen , anyway thanks again .
Just go to the dollar store and buy a stainless steel scouring pad. I have used them to clean my tips for years. very cheap.
Just make sure it is not steel wool. they are very abrasive. Make sure you get the stainless steel scrubbies. they are the best.
They sell the brass and even copper ones in most supermarkets where I live, one of those baby food glass jars are perfect if you add some gel flux to the pad, I don't mix flux to the pad anymore and it works fine without the clouds of fumes
Louis likes the expensive stuff Hako and weller
Hi, i have the same unit as you do. But the brand name my unit has is Zeny. I need a replacement soldering iron. Do you know where i can find one. Hope to hear from you soon. Many thanks in advance
good job
The bronze wool tip cleaners are very cheap. Look them up. $10 US or about 10 pounds
Im gad i found this didn't know if it was worth buying thanks
I'm torn between the 852D, 853D and 862BD+, which one do you recommend?
@Adamant IT If you knew anything about LOUIS, that's that he doesn't like sponges at all, they only cool your iron tip
Hi great vid just one question is the machine any good for lead free solder ?
did you unlock the pump screws on the bottom ?
many guys says that.
Would this be ok for drone work?
these pop on ebay now and again for as low as £15 just keep an eye out you should find one fairly quickly
Why didn't you use any flux when taking of the IC??
Well to be fair, he didn't even tin the lead on his iron when he first kicked it on either.
Have you taken the transit screws out from the underside?.....the fan runs until the unit is cool.....safety.
Don't forget the transit screws or you will damage the pump...it would seem that these come in a variety of guises....quality seems adequate for price.....BUT one thing I have been told and that is to look inside the unit as the fuse on some is on the negative line and not the positive (bad practice) take a look and let me know.......will do mine tomorrow too.....
Hi Put a hakko 191 heat test on it my one was 100c Hoter then reading on the iron tip.
How are you getting on with using the hot air for SMD work?
Cool Video Thanks
I want one!
I have this and the heat gun stopped working after two weeks
The heat gun can be replaced?
hey there I have a question here, when desolder the board does it ever turn black or brown when it heats up
Ok i also have another question here I have some wires here that I want to add connectors onto them but forgot the name of what they call those connectors to crimp the connectors onto the wires with tool as well
If i was to take a snapshot would you determine what it is
Would it be possible to email you
I dont give long time to live to his wooden table
was thinking the same
I'm thinking of buying a new like this one you reviewed from Amazon
I just would like to ask you if you still recommend it for me.
You had way too much air flow to take that chip off, and possibly cooked the chip in the process.. but all in all good video
Another version of their rework station had dangerous malfunctions. Check out the reviews on amazon : www.amazon.com/WEP-858D-Soldering-Station-Suitable/product-reviews/B0055B6NGE Before using this further, I would seriously pop it open and make sure it doesn't have the same issues as the 858D.
Quoting here:
You may have read other reviews of this item or other 858D clones. The reviews about the neutral and hot being reversed. This one had it as well. Before I even plugged this thing in I opened it up did a safety inspection and bigger than doughnuts the neutral was fused and switched as well as the hot just going straight in to the control board without any fusing what so ever! But this is an easy fix believe it or not. all you have to do is cut off the heat shrink wrapping on the fuse terminal where the neutral is connected to and un-solder it. Then cut the heatshrink on the other connection where the hot is connected to and un-solder that as well. SWAP THEM and re-solder and heatshrink them. Safety issue now fixed.
There is possibly another issue that you need to be aware of and its in the heater area so take that apart and inspect it. The problem you may or may not encounter here is that the grounding cable to the heat shield may be incorrectly setup and will touch the heater element. If you have this...BAD JUJU! So check to see that the grounding wire and tab is securely UNDER the mica wrapping and that it ohms out to ground. also, check that little circuit board area for bad/cold solder joints and dress those up if needed. I didnt have any but you may not be so lucky. Either way, inspect it thoroughly to verify.
After the repair and safety check, I plugged it in and turned it on. No arky-sparky and no magic smoke. It gets hot quick and goes into stand-by mode when you put it in the cradle. Everything works as advertised.
TL;DR----> DO NOT PLUG THIS THING IN UNTIL YOU DO A COMPLETE SAFETY CHECK AND VERIFY THAT THE HOT-NEUTRAL ARE NOT SWAPPED. FIX IT AND CHECK FOR OTHER SHORTS! Then test it out and it should work really well.
as I understand it, some of the errors were pretty dangerous for a user - not just "oh well it broke". so yes, please give it a look!
did you find the neutral and hot were swapped?
Get a heat mat before you burn your counter top
Have you really earned any money with only 1600 subscribers?
I cringed so bad when you put your hand in front of the reflow air gun. Not a recommended way of testing that.
Alexander Armstrong
MORE FLUXX HAHAHAH
i think you need to not be doing this on a wooden top
Look at the flow diretion. Noob ! XD
You're a computer repair shop and you're guessing what temp solder melts. I wont be sending any repairs your way.
More relevant is the heat sink properties to which the component is mounted. Usually, preheating the board minimizes the direct heat necessarily needed to be applied to the component.