Im so freaking happy I discovered this channel. This guy is incredible. Not only I’m learning quite handy things, but I’m also enjoying the process since this guy is really likable. Instantly subbed. Great content, sir! Love it!
I think this was the _most informative_ AND _easy to watch and understand_ video on power supplies I've seen. I love the way you presented it and the verbage you use to describe things resonates very well with me. Thanks a lot, keep it up!
When charging LIPO batteries to 4.2v per cell you really need to put something to balance it on the balance wire leads. Even if that doesn’t talk to the power supply it will reduce the chance of over charging one cell and having it burst into flames. The more you go over 1C in charging and discharging the battery the more important this is.
I've always referred to them as constant current/voltage but now that we're on topic, isn't the term 'constant' inappropriate here? Depending on the load the voltage and current would change. It's just that the voltage and current would never exceed the limits dialled in. In this context something like voltage/current 'limit' communicates thr intent much better. Calling it control current or voltage is more appropriate imo
I just love this guy, Adam I think his name is, I am 70 years old and have a great interest in pc repairs, I love the fact that there is no annoying music, his explanation is easy to understand. Watch all of his videos, liked and subscribed. Cheers from Ireland
Thanks a lot for this video, I ordered a 10 amp model of the one you have and the output toggle is a huge advantage and I just love the unit a lot in general. I guess I was just spoiled by the expensive units my uni had and didn't realize that some features didn't exist on the cheap end. I was about to buy the cheaper one before but glad I didn't. Also discovered this great channel and have been binge watching for weeks. Long time ago I ordered a set of laptop plug adapters which came in incredibly handy for the bench supply as I can just have a single 5.5/2.5mm barrel jack on it and plug any of the adapters into it to turn it into any laptop power supply socket (apart from USB-C and the flat lenovo one I guess)
CC is an extremely useful feature to have. It's worth noting that hobbyists often like to make DIY supplies out of ATX supplies because they are cheap and plentiful. ATX supplies, however, do not have any CC capability which means that if your test circuit shorts your DIY supply can easily destroy it or cause a fire. Other than a simple fuse, there's no way to prevent an ATX supply from outputting it's maximum current which can be as high as 25 amps. Nor will the supply's built-in 120V fuse protect your circuit. If you make such a supply, you should include some sort of CC circuit to prevent this from happening. Or use a true bench supply like those described in this video.
That's what puts me off of making an "ATX bench supply"... if it doesn't have CC then what's the point? I do need to look at some of the project vids though, to see if any of them have built in a CC circuit.
Great video you will a Professor one day if not already, very interesting i work on electric bikes, I to chop leads off battery chargers. I throw very little in the bin. If i was 30 years younger i would be your apprentice free for 12 months. Do keep the videos coming thank you Ron
You just can't charge lipo batteries without a BALANCE CHARGER! Lithium cells are NOT self-regulating. Anything over 4,25V/cell has a risk of exploding or something like that! This applies to all lithium batteries.
That 3 cel lipo could have a single cel being way overcharged and another way undercharged. Charging without a balance charger is not recommended for LiPo's (unless the battery has a BMS).
Love your videos. I think this power supply has usb connection on the back. You should try to make a LabVIEW VI for charging LiPo's. It's relatively straightforward and you will be able to get a graph and auto cut off too when fully charged. Also, I'm in the process of resurrecting my brother's dead EVGA 970. Following your process on the 960, I found a shorted MOSFET on one of the power phases and took it out. Walla short gone and system powers on and games rather well too. Didn't want to push it too hard as I'm waiting for replacement MOSFET, so hopefully I will get it back to full performance. Couldn't have done it without your video!
@@Adamant_ITIt turns out, I did have a bust driver as it blew up the replaced mosfet soon after I put some load on it! Luckily, I order a set of them as well and managed to replace it. Man they are fiddly as hell! Card was working again, but under load, it was only stable for like 10 mins or so and kept soft crashing. Had no trouble booting up into windows after each crash, so tried operating at lower power limts, down to 70% but stability gradually decreased and took out two more mosfets. Replaced those mosfets again and was playing snowrunder for about 1.5 hours and just as I thought it was fixed, soft crash! After a good night sleep, decided to check resistance to ground for all drivers and mosfets and noticed one of the pins of the the replaced driver was much lower resistance, which I think was causing the instability. So replaced it again and I played snowrunner for 3 hours non stop today without any issues, power limit set to 80% though as I didnt want to over stress it. So at this moment in time, out of the 12 mosfets, the original six show resistance to ground of ~14kOhms (this is for the pin number 1 and the other 3 are going to ground). Out of the six that I replaced, 4 are showing ~35 kOhms and two are showing ~14kOhms. So i'm not sure if they will degrade further or not. was temped to replace all 14k ones, but will see if card continues to run stable or not under load over the coming days. Fingers crossed. Still have 11 new mosfets and 7 new drivers. Good thing I ordered a full set plus some for cockups! :)
This is a nifty channel, thanks for all these tips ! It's nowadays rare to see a channel putting up non-nonsense content so I'm happy to have stumbled upon this series !
i love having a power supply were you dont have to short the leads to set the amps also i prefer to get the 10 amp model even if you dont think your gonna need it. in the long run your power supply does not need to work as hard as one that is 5 amp
Thanks for a very usefull video. Could you say something about powering USB-powered devices with a bench PSU? If this sounds like a dumb question, here is what I mean: some of the bench PSUs have a dedicated USB output, which of course, looks like a handy thing to have. But then again, you should be able to attach a USB plug to any PSU, so that a built-in plug is not really necessary, right? But when I looked around for banana to usb adaptors, it seems that this is not something people commonly use. So I was wondering whether there is a reason for that. Maybe there is a point with the built-in USB, after all?
Hey note that on the TS100 all the caps are rated 24 volt. That means you are putting maximum stress on the caps. On my TS100 I never go over 22-23 volt in order to spare the caps. The difference in performance is so insignificant, but the TS100 will properly last a lot longer..
As someone who has been out of the repair game for some time starting up again thanks for clearing up a few things, that hanmatek is definitely looking worth the extra £20. There seems to be a little confusion on amazon weather or not it is a hanmatek or rockseed although it looks like they are just rebrands we'll have to see how it goes I guess sadly when I started out it was all on gear I either repaired then inherited or made myself so shopping for things new is a bit of a nightmare and I'm at the point where buy once has rung very truthfully very loudly... I do want to ask of the cleanliness of the power supplied, have you tried it out on a scope to see if there is any noise or crosstalk coming through the output side? I only ask because I also do a lot of work on music equipment and I've run into a cross talking power supply having me chase my tail for longer than I am willing to admit XD
I make my own leads using 3 core flex. Particularly useful with dual power supplies that have pos,gnd,neg rails. With a bit of larger cable I even have a set 3m long so I can power stuff that will not fit on my bench.
Ever since you talked about your soldering tools specifically the PINE-64 I immediately ordered it thru Aliexpress and since receiving it and using it my soldering had never been the same, my soldering hobby had became more accurate and easier than my crappy soldering gun, thanks for sharing your videos
Good information even though it is 4 years old. On the topic of why someone would need 30A is charging larger battery packs. I have several 60V and 80V 5+Ah and larger packs that can take 10A+ for charging. Its still hard to find a desktop supply that will give me 82V for my biggest battery so I have even considered buying two 42V and running in serial.
What are your thoughts in getting a switched power supply versus a linear one? I've only just learned about the difference. I was looking at a cheap switched power supply but now I'm thinking of getting a linear one for the same price instead since people have done videos on the noisy outputs some of them have.
Hi, what happened to your video titled "BRB#10 [SEE DESCRIPTION/PINNED COMMENT] - Short Detection with Voltage Injection" I was in the middle of watching the video and all of a sudden the video was interrupted and it said "this video is private" I can't view it anymore :(
I was considering why I would need one of these devices. I own a couple of 32/35 PSUs to power radios. I couldn't get my head around the current function on the bench power supplies. Why would I want to draw say 2amps through connected kit? Thanks to your video I now understand that the current display is set to a maximum allowable current been demanded by connected equipment. However what happens if you set the current to zero?
The also make cheep ones with the output on off if you know to look for it. Adjustable DC Power Supply (0-30 V 0-5 A) with Output Enable/Disable Button HANMATEK HM305 Mini Variable Switching Digital Bench Power Supply www.amazon.com/dp/B0852JZQZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8PAA4266ZC2AFX5Q5AP7 But if you already own one that’s a good option. Just be careful not to add any resistance to the line or the readings will be off.
When charging, or discharging, lithium batteries you must always have a backup disconnect system. Even a simple timer switch will work. It's so very easy to walk off and forget about it. Charging batteries is one of the most boring things to do. Even worse than watching grass grow or watching paint dry.
I have one similar to the left and you're right about it....when powered on in CC, it blasts my LEDs to freaking max amps for like a millisecond before current limiting them! Try it, you will literally throw that thing out the window after seeing that!
this vid saved me from buying the small/cheaper unit, and going strait for the upgraded unit, for me its for primarily charging batteries of different types/capacities so the 10amp version would be best, be nice to have 100amps when i go to build my off grid lithium battery but.... be days not hours to charge is all. ill be able to run it off my lead acid solar setup no problems at 10amps.
Does anyone know how to save settings to Memory buttons (M1 to M6). It remembers while ON. Mine forgets everything when I power off. Thanks! Not sure if I got a bad one. 🙏
The Riden RD6006 is a good unit and a good dea, just order the case and the 60V switching PSU as well. SDG Electronics has a good review as does Daaaaave and others.
have you had any issues with the switching power supply when working on phone and laptop PCBs? I see recommendations that a linear power supply would be better
No mention of whether the power supplies were linear or switch mode, no mention of short circuit protection , i think you should plan your videos better.😊 Just sayn
hi there , greetings from the Philippines, been watching and learning from your videos, like the way you explain things, pretty straight forward. Just to let you know , you have one brand new subscriber today!
Looks like that one is not available anymore. This one has the output on off but not the memory features. Adjustable DC Power Supply (0-30 V 0-10 A) with Output Enable/Disable Button HM310 Mini Variable Switching Digital Bench Power Supply www.amazon.com/dp/B087TK6ZM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ASZ5E4AACJS0R0RSMHK1
Tbh at that point you may as well just use a balance charger - which is a better way to charge a lipo like this. The main point of the demonstration is showing how bench PSUs can achieve voltage and current control automatically for you.
4:46 I don't believe that your power suppply is at fault. Its probably the fact that it is a fairly decent system and its simply propagating an issue that is always there but goes un-noticed. Ultimately the root cause could be anything from: A) old style wiring (shacked up in a WWII era buildng with original cloth insulated wiring (or even knob and tube?)) For instnace you might notice that the fluctuations occur when you walk across or stand on a certain area of the floor, where the wiring is running into a junction box (or not) beneath the floor(hypothetically speaking)... B) How many other seperate buildings/seperate electrical services are situated on your side of the telephone pole distribution transformer? Hypothetcally: You may notice a fluctuation when your across the street neghbor decides to do homework and fires up her 1934 Hoover Junior model 370 which brings me to: C) ...an Amateur Radio Operator in Northern France, moments before, decided to tune their Heathkit DX-100 through their 2500 watt linear amplifier directly into a subterranean dummy load... (HVDC Cross-Channel interconnector): 1,000 MW D) ...National Grid Reserve Service ...Frequency-response reserves ...Sizewell nuclear power station... 1,300 MW ... I could go on and on; the USA's electrical grid has nothing on Britania's, mainly because the distances are so much closer over there. I could imagine an imbalance echoing back and forth across the channel for days at a time before something actually melts under the channel.. So what really spelled it out for me was when I bought two APC Smart-UPS 1500 LCDs (1 kW 1440 VA) from NASA for 15$ each; brought them home and gave them two 12 volt deep cell marine batteries, each. They're just marvelously wonderful. The solution is the "Automatic Voltage Regulation"; AVR "adjusts high and low voltages to a 'safe' level, ensuring your equipment has reliable power and preserving the life of the battery..." Its all about the LINE voltage fluctuating, which presents as your sophisticated power supply's output fluctuating. I had the same exact problem. Now the output is rock solid, although the lights flicker on occasion.
Definitely go to EEVblog, very informative, very qualitative. And most importantly, you get the enthusiastic Aussie "Hi!" at the start of EVERY video. "Haw-ee!"
That’s how you set current on high dollar power supplies also…. It’s been a very common universal way to do that for ages. It isn’t inconvenient or anything 😂😂😂. The output is exactly the same either way…
Unfortunately, I have only just discovered your channel. 🥲Now I finally understand voltage injection and I can now use the thermal imaging camera for something useful. I have one question. Maybe someone here can answere it: For many years i use a PSU from basetech (BT-153). It has CC and CV. So far so good. It is quite similar to the eventek in the video. But i ran into a problem. It shuts the voltage off when i put the probes in the short curcuit. So no power is transfered into the circuit. I guess its anything like ocp or ovp. Cannot find anything about it in the manual. To make the whole thing more understandable for me: It is not possible to inject voltage in a circuit with PSU like that?
Just discovered your channel and thanks for sharing this helpful video and information. Earlier today I ordered a Longwei 3010KDS from Amazon Prime with 2 days delivery. I appreciate your help in providing reviews on these items. I am in the process of building my Electronics home workshop for Amateur Radio and Model Railroading & model drones. I subscribed to your UA-cam channel as well.
Excellent video with lots of detailed information for beginners like me. Thank you. Unfortunately, the Hanmatek 305P is no longer available at Amazon. Do you recommend a different unit with pre-sets and is programable?
I'm moving onto a narrow boat soon, I was wondering if these would run off my portable solar generator, its got a 1800 w inverter that will put the full wattage out continuously, so I would have thought It would work. I want to be able to fine tune charging smaller batteries and run bread boards lol, this electronics hobby, it's starting to drag me in,, im a complete beginner but it seems a great hobby for a small space, like my boat lol.
Have you seen HANMATEK HM305? it's great for beginners 30v 10a small like the white one you have but u can file individual numbers and has the no current button as well. im loving it sofar but going for some nice leads for it now. do you happen to know were i can gett good quality ez hooks with gold plating?
You're wrong about the TS100 taking more amps when given more voltage. If you meant to say power, that would be right though. Regarding charging batteries at safe levels, then 1C is actually what keeps lipos live longer. Sure they can take much more, but not when you want them to last - that is only true when you don't actually leave them charged above 3.9V per cell for too long. If you don't plan to discharge them within a day or so, then put them to storage charge. I keep mine at around 3.75V to 3.85V per cell (around 50%) and at that voltage the're perfectly fine to still use them occasionally. After usage you can charge them back up to storage voltage. Oh and I'd strongly advice against charging multicell batteries like that, because single cells inside the pack can still be overcharged while others are under. When you don't have or want to use a balance charger or cell balancer, then take some jumper wires and charge it in multiple passes using the balance connector (and make sure all cells are charged to the same potential).
033021/0821h PST 🇺🇸 1621 UTC That was a fantastic lecture and practical demonstration of SMPS and its salient features. How I wish, at least, 10% of UA-cam Warriors could match up with you! Frustratingly what we get to watch and grumble is, big BS. Thank you, mate you made the day. Stay safe and 73s...
Oh I just bought the cheaper unit... I wished I see this before I ordered. Looks like the programmable unit is no longer avaiable, do you have and alternative suggestion ?
I have a basic 30v 10amp 4 digit with Watts power supply with a ground terminal which costed about £60. It also has a very useful USB port and is horizontal rather than vertical which is better for stacking in limited space. I considered getting a machine with a memory but I though I’d rarely use it and the model I was looking at only had 4 stars over about 200 reviews as well as being £40 more. Before getting that I had one of those £10 Ali Express things you have to wire into a case yourself. Off the top of my head I think that is 30v 4amps. At the moment I'm trying to learn how the 4N35 Octocoupler works and I’m glad I have both units.
actually just used my dual output to power 12v portion of my trucks ecm. and inject 5v into the dead portion of the logic. turns out all the logic was fine, i found a corroded trace leading from 12v to 5v regulator.
I have one similar to your cheaper model but it's a Velleman. From what I can tell, the only difference is it lets you limit amps or volts by switching between the two. I really like it.
Just don't use a power supply that doesn't have some type of lock out or way to prevent you from accidentally changing the settings if your doing anything important.
Great video, thank you. With the laptop powering part you know how you said it's possible to damage fuses in laptop chargers - wouldn't it be more expensive to damage the bench top power supply AND is there a chance that bench top power supply CAN be damaged by plugging it in to faulty laptops?
Bench power supplies are built to be abused, they can handle bad connections, shorts, transients, etc. Regular chargers and power adaptors will have some protection, but they're not _supposed_ to lean on those protections at all.
LOL It's not likely that having an in-between setting for a power switch (not sure what that would be) is going to change your decision to turn off power before hooking it up
Im so freaking happy I discovered this channel. This guy is incredible. Not only I’m learning quite handy things, but I’m also enjoying the process since this guy is really likable. Instantly subbed. Great content, sir! Love it!
Same here.
Yeah man this guy's cool.
Yes me too I personally appreciate
Quick note: CV and CC stand for Constant Voltage and Constant Current - not "control" :)
Was looking for this comment.
I think this was the _most informative_ AND _easy to watch and understand_ video on power supplies I've seen. I love the way you presented it and the verbage you use to describe things resonates very well with me. Thanks a lot, keep it up!
Just excellent video - Thumbs up on production quality on: audio levels, lighting, camera and content. Thumbs up and subscribed.
You're really the only one that I've seen that's done a proper review of the HM305P. You're the one that's knocking me off the fence and ordering one.
When charging LIPO batteries to 4.2v per cell you really need to put something to balance it on the balance wire leads. Even if that doesn’t talk to the power supply it will reduce the chance of over charging one cell and having it burst into flames.
The more you go over 1C in charging and discharging the battery the more important this is.
I'm gonna nitpick a bit, but CC and CV stands for Constant Current and Constant Voltage, not control current/voltage.
CV Stands for cock vagina
I've always referred to them as constant current/voltage but now that we're on topic, isn't the term 'constant' inappropriate here? Depending on the load the voltage and current would change. It's just that the voltage and current would never exceed the limits dialled in. In this context something like voltage/current 'limit' communicates thr intent much better.
Calling it control current or voltage is more appropriate imo
@How Not To Cream Cheese
I just love this guy, Adam I think his name is, I am 70 years old and have a great interest in pc repairs, I love the fact that there is no annoying music, his explanation is easy to understand. Watch all of his videos, liked and subscribed. Cheers from Ireland
Thanks a lot for this video, I ordered a 10 amp model of the one you have and the output toggle is a huge advantage and I just love the unit a lot in general. I guess I was just spoiled by the expensive units my uni had and didn't realize that some features didn't exist on the cheap end. I was about to buy the cheaper one before but glad I didn't. Also discovered this great channel and have been binge watching for weeks. Long time ago I ordered a set of laptop plug adapters which came in incredibly handy for the bench supply as I can just have a single 5.5/2.5mm barrel jack on it and plug any of the adapters into it to turn it into any laptop power supply socket (apart from USB-C and the flat lenovo one I guess)
CC is an extremely useful feature to have. It's worth noting that hobbyists often like to make DIY supplies out of ATX supplies because they are cheap and plentiful. ATX supplies, however, do not have any CC capability which means that if your test circuit shorts your DIY supply can easily destroy it or cause a fire. Other than a simple fuse, there's no way to prevent an ATX supply from outputting it's maximum current which can be as high as 25 amps. Nor will the supply's built-in 120V fuse protect your circuit. If you make such a supply, you should include some sort of CC circuit to prevent this from happening. Or use a true bench supply like those described in this video.
That's what puts me off of making an "ATX bench supply"... if it doesn't have CC then what's the point?
I do need to look at some of the project vids though, to see if any of them have built in a CC circuit.
@@Adamant_IT Two years on, have you seen any cool project vids that have CC circuits that you would recommend? Thanks & Cheers!
Great video you will a Professor one day if not already, very interesting i work on electric bikes, I to chop leads off battery chargers. I throw very little in the bin. If i was 30 years younger i would be your apprentice free for 12 months. Do keep the videos coming thank you Ron
You are very gifted at relaying information in an easy to understand way! I'm happy I found your channel. Great video's all around :)
So are you selling that finicky psu bro. For starter like me it will be good than nothing.
You just can't charge lipo batteries without a BALANCE CHARGER! Lithium cells are NOT self-regulating. Anything over 4,25V/cell has a risk of exploding or something like that! This applies to all lithium batteries.
That 3 cel lipo could have a single cel being way overcharged and another way undercharged. Charging without a balance charger is not recommended for LiPo's (unless the battery has a BMS).
Well done! I'm sure you are helping to many people like me that is getting into electronics. Always helpful
He is indeed and I'm one of them
I am as well. He was the reason I bought the HM305P. AND what lab is complete without a BPS?
Love your videos. I think this power supply has usb connection on the back. You should try to make a LabVIEW VI for charging LiPo's. It's relatively straightforward and you will be able to get a graph and auto cut off too when fully charged. Also, I'm in the process of resurrecting my brother's dead EVGA 970. Following your process on the 960, I found a shorted MOSFET on one of the power phases and took it out. Walla short gone and system powers on and games rather well too. Didn't want to push it too hard as I'm waiting for replacement MOSFET, so hopefully I will get it back to full performance. Couldn't have done it without your video!
Good luck dude! Hopefully you don't have a busted driver that keeps blowing up mosfets like I did!
@@Adamant_ITIt turns out, I did have a bust driver as it blew up the replaced mosfet soon after I put some load on it! Luckily, I order a set of them as well and managed to replace it. Man they are fiddly as hell! Card was working again, but under load, it was only stable for like 10 mins or so and kept soft crashing. Had no trouble booting up into windows after each crash, so tried operating at lower power limts, down to 70% but stability gradually decreased and took out two more mosfets. Replaced those mosfets again and was playing snowrunder for about 1.5 hours and just as I thought it was fixed, soft crash!
After a good night sleep, decided to check resistance to ground for all drivers and mosfets and noticed one of the pins of the the replaced driver was much lower resistance, which I think was causing the instability. So replaced it again and I played snowrunner for 3 hours non stop today without any issues, power limit set to 80% though as I didnt want to over stress it. So at this moment in time, out of the 12 mosfets, the original six show resistance to ground of ~14kOhms (this is for the pin number 1 and the other 3 are going to ground). Out of the six that I replaced, 4 are showing ~35 kOhms and two are showing ~14kOhms. So i'm not sure if they will degrade further or not. was temped to replace all 14k ones, but will see if card continues to run stable or not under load over the coming days. Fingers crossed. Still have 11 new mosfets and 7 new drivers. Good thing I ordered a full set plus some for cockups! :)
This is a nifty channel, thanks for all these tips ! It's nowadays rare to see a channel putting up non-nonsense content so I'm happy to have stumbled upon this series !
do have a link on his channel? the blog you talking about or did any one here found it?
blog about power suplpy...
“I’m embarrased by my power supply”.
i love having a power supply were you dont have to short the leads to set the amps also i prefer to get the 10 amp model even if you dont think your gonna need it. in the long run your power supply does not need to work as hard as one that is 5 amp
Hi Adam
Dose this ps have a protection against shorts? Like when you inject voltage?
Thank you
Thanks for a very usefull video. Could you say something about powering USB-powered devices with a bench PSU? If this sounds like a dumb question, here is what I mean: some of the bench PSUs have a dedicated USB output, which of course, looks like a handy thing to have. But then again, you should be able to attach a USB plug to any PSU, so that a built-in plug is not really necessary, right? But when I looked around for banana to usb adaptors, it seems that this is not something people commonly use. So I was wondering whether there is a reason for that. Maybe there is a point with the built-in USB, after all?
Hey note that on the TS100 all the caps are rated 24 volt. That means you are putting maximum stress on the caps. On my TS100 I never go over 22-23 volt in order to spare the caps. The difference in performance is so insignificant, but the TS100 will properly last a lot longer..
I've been after one of these for a while. I tend to use salvaged PC PSUs for my 12 & 5V needs. The info about battery charging was very useful.
You’re an awesome teacher, I really do appreciate your time
As someone who has been out of the repair game for some time starting up again thanks for clearing up a few things, that hanmatek is definitely looking worth the extra £20. There seems to be a little confusion on amazon weather or not it is a hanmatek or rockseed although it looks like they are just rebrands we'll have to see how it goes I guess sadly when I started out it was all on gear I either repaired then inherited or made myself so shopping for things new is a bit of a nightmare and I'm at the point where buy once has rung very truthfully very loudly...
I do want to ask of the cleanliness of the power supplied, have you tried it out on a scope to see if there is any noise or crosstalk coming through the output side? I only ask because I also do a lot of work on music equipment and I've run into a cross talking power supply having me chase my tail for longer than I am willing to admit XD
I make my own leads using 3 core flex. Particularly useful with dual power supplies that have pos,gnd,neg rails. With a bit of larger cable I even have a set 3m long so I can power stuff that will not fit on my bench.
Ever since you talked about your soldering tools specifically the PINE-64 I immediately ordered it thru Aliexpress and since receiving it and using it my soldering had never been the same, my soldering hobby had became more accurate and easier than my crappy soldering gun, thanks for sharing your videos
Good information even though it is 4 years old. On the topic of why someone would need 30A is charging larger battery packs. I have several 60V and 80V 5+Ah and larger packs that can take 10A+ for charging. Its still hard to find a desktop supply that will give me 82V for my biggest battery so I have even considered buying two 42V and running in serial.
What are your thoughts in getting a switched power supply versus a linear one? I've only just learned about the difference. I was looking at a cheap switched power supply but now I'm thinking of getting a linear one for the same price instead since people have done videos on the noisy outputs some of them have.
Hi, what happened to your video titled "BRB#10 [SEE DESCRIPTION/PINNED COMMENT] - Short Detection with Voltage Injection" I was in the middle of watching the video and all of a sudden the video was interrupted and it said "this video is private" I can't view it anymore :(
can you do some video on motherboard repair of jvc projectors
I have that Hanmatek in the 310 version. (36v/10A) Great supply for the money, feature rich, and its power is fairly clean.
I was considering why I would need one of these devices. I own a couple of 32/35 PSUs to power radios. I couldn't get my head around the current function on the bench power supplies. Why would I want to draw say 2amps through connected kit? Thanks to your video I now understand that the current display is set to a maximum allowable current been demanded by connected equipment. However what happens if you set the current to zero?
On the cheap supply, you could just install a switch on the case somewhere turning off the power to the leads.
The also make cheep ones with the output on off if you know to look for it.
Adjustable DC Power Supply (0-30 V 0-5 A) with Output Enable/Disable Button HANMATEK HM305 Mini Variable Switching Digital Bench Power Supply www.amazon.com/dp/B0852JZQZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8PAA4266ZC2AFX5Q5AP7
But if you already own one that’s a good option. Just be careful not to add any resistance to the line or the readings will be off.
When charging, or discharging, lithium batteries you must always have a backup disconnect system. Even a simple timer switch will work. It's so very easy to walk off and forget about it. Charging batteries is one of the most boring things to do. Even worse than watching grass grow or watching paint dry.
I have one similar to the left and you're right about it....when powered on in CC, it blasts my LEDs to freaking max amps for like a millisecond before current limiting them!
Try it, you will literally throw that thing out the window after seeing that!
Interesting, I did actually check the overshoot on mine one time and found no issue. Wouldn't surprise me if there's a lot of variation though.
I'm looking to build a 48v p04 bank with 16 cells what psu would you recommend to test/charge it
this vid saved me from buying the small/cheaper unit, and going strait for the upgraded unit, for me its for primarily charging batteries of different types/capacities so the 10amp version would be best, be nice to have 100amps when i go to build my off grid lithium battery but.... be days not hours to charge is all. ill be able to run it off my lead acid solar setup no problems at 10amps.
Does anyone know how to save settings to Memory buttons (M1 to M6). It remembers while ON.
Mine forgets everything when I power off. Thanks!
Not sure if I got a bad one. 🙏
You can ballance charge though the ballance lead one cell at a time. Just dont forget to ballance them all before using the battery
The Riden RD6006 is a good unit and a good dea, just order the case and the 60V switching PSU as well. SDG Electronics has a good review as does Daaaaave and others.
What power supply did you use with it.
EEV blog review was great. m.ua-cam.com/video/0qjLx_HsKUQ/v-deo.html
Can I combine multiple bench psus by sharing the ground and have different output voltages?
5:50 Glad you pointed this out. I have this model and was struggling with having to to set the current like that too.
have you had any issues with the switching power supply when working on phone and laptop PCBs? I see recommendations that a linear power supply would be better
No mention of whether the power supplies were linear or switch mode, no mention of short circuit protection , i think you should plan your videos better.😊
Just sayn
You dont need an exact voltage, esp with these cheap PSUs, WTF?
I came to see the features of this bench power supply, but stayed for the value added bonus info at no extra charge.
Hi the clip you used for the ts100 did you make this yourself or purchase, is so can you provide a link..thanks
Well done, you're amazing, with the explanation you give, on all issues.
Very informative! Look forward to the next one. Thanks.
hi there , greetings from the Philippines, been watching and learning from your videos, like the way you explain things, pretty straight forward. Just to let you know , you have one brand new subscriber today!
3:40 it has some kind of load inside to be able to short both clips together like that? isnt that a short circuit? why no sparks?
I was trying to find your injection video to no avail. Could you post link please??
Thank you! I learned so much! I'm going to order that PSU and start having some fun!
Very informative and fun to watch. Can't wait for the next one!
I really like that unit you have there. Unfortunately it is unavailable in the US is there anywhere else may I be able to find one?
" Quite a couple," that's proper english .
So other power supply can’t do any of those things right?
Awesome video, perfectly explained. Thanks you so much
Looks like that one is not available anymore. This one has the output on off but not the memory features.
Adjustable DC Power Supply (0-30 V 0-10 A) with Output Enable/Disable Button HM310 Mini Variable Switching Digital Bench Power Supply www.amazon.com/dp/B087TK6ZM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ASZ5E4AACJS0R0RSMHK1
10:21 - Thanks for the clarity. Maybe, sometime show a circuit that would utilize the balancing cable with your P/S.
Tbh at that point you may as well just use a balance charger - which is a better way to charge a lipo like this. The main point of the demonstration is showing how bench PSUs can achieve voltage and current control automatically for you.
So glad i found this channel. Very informative. Thanks!
very helpful, thank you for sharing
Yah I agree. Wish I have one. But quite expensive psu.
you should never use a psu as a charger as there's no current feedback
DO NOT BUY A KPS305D, very poor supply, current limiting is awefull
4:46 I don't believe that your power suppply is at fault. Its probably the fact that it is a fairly decent system and its simply propagating an issue that is always there but goes un-noticed. Ultimately the root cause could be anything from:
A) old style wiring (shacked up in a WWII era buildng with original cloth insulated wiring (or even knob and tube?)) For instnace you might notice that the fluctuations occur when you walk across or stand on a certain area of the floor, where the wiring is running into a junction box (or not) beneath the floor(hypothetically speaking)...
B) How many other seperate buildings/seperate electrical services are situated on your side of the telephone pole distribution transformer? Hypothetcally: You may notice a fluctuation when your across the street neghbor decides to do homework and fires up her 1934 Hoover Junior model 370 which brings me to:
C) ...an Amateur Radio Operator in Northern France, moments before, decided to tune their Heathkit DX-100 through their 2500 watt linear amplifier directly into a subterranean dummy load... (HVDC Cross-Channel interconnector): 1,000 MW
D) ...National Grid Reserve Service ...Frequency-response reserves ...Sizewell nuclear power station... 1,300 MW
... I could go on and on; the USA's electrical grid has nothing on Britania's, mainly because the distances are so much closer over there. I could imagine an imbalance echoing back and forth across the channel for days at a time before something actually melts under the channel..
So what really spelled it out for me was when I bought two APC Smart-UPS 1500 LCDs (1 kW 1440 VA) from NASA for 15$ each; brought them home and gave them two 12 volt deep cell marine batteries, each. They're just marvelously wonderful.
The solution is the "Automatic Voltage Regulation"; AVR "adjusts high and low voltages to a 'safe' level, ensuring your equipment has reliable power and preserving the life of the battery..."
Its all about the LINE voltage fluctuating, which presents as your sophisticated power supply's output fluctuating. I had the same exact problem. Now the output is rock solid, although the lights flicker on occasion.
Definitely go to EEVblog, very informative, very qualitative. And most importantly, you get the enthusiastic Aussie "Hi!" at the start of EVERY video. "Haw-ee!"
That’s how you set current on high dollar power supplies also…. It’s been a very common universal way to do that for ages. It isn’t inconvenient or anything 😂😂😂. The output is exactly the same either way…
Unfortunately, I have only just discovered your channel. 🥲Now I finally understand voltage injection and I can now use the thermal imaging camera for something useful.
I have one question. Maybe someone here can answere it:
For many years i use a PSU from basetech (BT-153). It has CC and CV. So far so good. It is quite similar to the eventek in the video. But i ran into a problem. It shuts the voltage off when i put the probes in the short curcuit. So no power is transfered into the circuit. I guess its anything like ocp or ovp. Cannot find anything about it in the manual.
To make the whole thing more understandable for me: It is not possible to inject voltage in a circuit with PSU like that?
great explanation. thank you!
Just discovered your channel and thanks for sharing this helpful video and information.
Earlier today I ordered a Longwei 3010KDS from Amazon Prime with 2 days delivery. I appreciate your help in providing reviews on these items. I am in the process of building my Electronics home workshop for Amateur Radio and Model Railroading & model drones.
I subscribed to your UA-cam channel as well.
Excellent video with lots of detailed information for beginners like me. Thank you. Unfortunately, the Hanmatek 305P is no longer available at Amazon. Do you recommend a different unit with pre-sets and is programable?
Thanks! Had to go through three other videos until I found this one to finally understand how to use one of these devices ;-)
this channel ROCKS !!
I'm moving onto a narrow boat soon, I was wondering if these would run off my portable solar generator, its got a 1800 w inverter that will put the full wattage out continuously, so I would have thought It would work.
I want to be able to fine tune charging smaller batteries and run bread boards lol, this electronics hobby, it's starting to drag me in,, im a complete beginner but it seems a great hobby for a small space, like my boat lol.
Have you seen HANMATEK HM305? it's great for beginners 30v 10a small like the white one you have but u can file individual numbers and has the no current button as well. im loving it sofar but going for some nice leads for it now. do you happen to know were i can gett good quality ez hooks with gold plating?
You're wrong about the TS100 taking more amps when given more voltage. If you meant to say power, that would be right though. Regarding charging batteries at safe levels, then 1C is actually what keeps lipos live longer. Sure they can take much more, but not when you want them to last - that is only true when you don't actually leave them charged above 3.9V per cell for too long. If you don't plan to discharge them within a day or so, then put them to storage charge. I keep mine at around 3.75V to 3.85V per cell (around 50%) and at that voltage the're perfectly fine to still use them occasionally. After usage you can charge them back up to storage voltage. Oh and I'd strongly advice against charging multicell batteries like that, because single cells inside the pack can still be overcharged while others are under. When you don't have or want to use a balance charger or cell balancer, then take some jumper wires and charge it in multiple passes using the balance connector (and make sure all cells are charged to the same potential).
033021/0821h PST 🇺🇸 1621 UTC That was a fantastic lecture and practical demonstration of SMPS and its salient features. How I wish, at least, 10% of UA-cam Warriors could match up with you! Frustratingly what we get to watch and grumble is, big BS. Thank you, mate you made the day. Stay safe and 73s...
Great video! Thanks! I learned a lot.
What's with the twisted pairs @ 19:57? Is there a purpose for that or?
Oh I just bought the cheaper unit... I wished I see this before I ordered. Looks like the programmable unit is no longer avaiable, do you have and alternative suggestion ?
I have a basic 30v 10amp 4 digit with Watts power supply with a ground terminal which costed about £60. It also has a very useful USB port and is horizontal rather than vertical which is better for stacking in limited space. I considered getting a machine with a memory but I though I’d rarely use it and the model I was looking at only had 4 stars over about 200 reviews as well as being £40 more. Before getting that I had one of those £10 Ali Express things you have to wire into a case yourself. Off the top of my head I think that is 30v 4amps. At the moment I'm trying to learn how the 4N35 Octocoupler works and I’m glad I have both units.
Thanks for the explainer@
Everyone I’ve seen uses them and inferred
this js really awesome. I find your lectures amazingly great, it helps me discover things i never knew they were possible.
actually just used my dual output to power 12v portion of my trucks ecm. and inject 5v into the dead portion of the logic.
turns out all the logic was fine, i found a corroded trace leading from 12v to 5v regulator.
Fantastic video / thank you
Like it man good video thank you my name Adam too lol
I have one similar to your cheaper model but it's a Velleman. From what I can tell, the only difference is it lets you limit amps or volts by switching between the two. I really like it.
Just don't use a power supply that doesn't have some type of lock out or way to prevent you from accidentally changing the settings if your doing anything important.
is crocodile british for alligator?
whats the difference between the hm305p and hm 305? just asking because the 305 is cheaper
thankyou for that idea sir,
Isn't shorting the crocodile clips a bit dangerous?
There is a fuse in the back
Adamant you are the best
Great video, thank you. With the laptop powering part you know how you said it's possible to damage fuses in laptop chargers - wouldn't it be more expensive to damage the bench top power supply AND is there a chance that bench top power supply CAN be damaged by plugging it in to faulty laptops?
Bench power supplies are built to be abused, they can handle bad connections, shorts, transients, etc.
Regular chargers and power adaptors will have some protection, but they're not _supposed_ to lean on those protections at all.
@@Adamant_IT legend, thanks
LOL It's not likely that having an in-between setting for a power switch (not sure what that would be) is going to change your decision to turn off power before hooking it up