The Benefits of an ERV + How it Works | Panasonic FV-04VE1+FV-WC04VE1
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 лип 2024
- We spend 90% of our time indoors and the EPA says that indoor pollution is generally 200% to 500% worse than outdoor pollution.
As part of our "Fresh Air Fridays" series, Matt Hoots owner of SawHorse, a Licensed Contractor and Green Design Expert discusses how an ERV works and the benefits for your home or office.
Matt unboxes the FV-04VE1 and FV-WC04VE1 and talks about how each part works and design consideration for a future install.
Check out this playlist to see the rest of the "Fresh Air Fridays" shows. • Fresh Air Fridays - "I...
Don't forget to "Subscribe" to our channel to get notifications for new videos that are posted several times per week.
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:40 Unboxing the Main ERV + Explanation
3:14 Vent Cap
3:55 Components of the ERV
5:05 Enthalpic Core
6:09 Visualization
6:42 ERV Filter
7:36 Ventilation Mechanism
8:08 Putting it Together
9:54 Outro
Connect with us on social media:
UA-cam: ua-cam.com/users/sawhorse...
Facebook: / sawhorsedesignbuild
Blog: sawhorse.net/blog/
Instagram: / sawhorse_design_build
Houzz: www.houzz.com/pro/sawhorsedes...
LinkedIn (SawHorse): / sawhorse-inc .
LinkedIn (Matt Hoots): / matthoots - Навчання та стиль
Great video, very informative.
Thank you!
Great episode!
Thanks- what other type of content are you interested in?
Fresh air is a big concern during the winter months since the goal is to keep the cold weather out. Good to see that there is a reasonable solution that does not have an energy penalty.
Most people don't understand balanced ventilation. This is one of the better solutions to get fresh air without a high cost of energy.
@@SawHorseDesignBuild expect in the install manual tells you best to run between March and November. If you live in cold climate, I'd recommend HRV.
@@umadbra Some other ERV's work better in cold climates. Seems like the limitations are on the spot ERV's
@@SawHorseDesignBuild anything in New England is recommended to have HRV to have the air heated before coming into the house.
Excellent presentation, very consistent, thank you very much for your professionalism... greetings 3CAB ELECTRIC INC. (Juan)
Thanks for the compliment
Good all re merv 16, would like to see what exactly that looks like
Thank you for the information. For those 4 inch ducts to connect to the outside do they need to be insulated ducts?
Depends on the location of the ducts. I would insulate both but if it is in a semi conditioned space just the supply needs to be insulated.
Do you have any suggestions on how to add a prefilter on the fresh air intake (to filter incoming air) or stale air (to protect the core)?
Is this for a DIY install or are you an HVAC tech? I would install a filter box that can house a MERV 13 filter with very little pressure drop. I might work on a video showing how to do that since I have been asked a few times.
I need help. It turns out that I have this installed with the exhaust/intake vents pointing upwards when I placed it in my wall. It looks like I don't have any other choice. Why do the instructions recommend the vents to only be facing downward for a wall installation?
Are you referring to the intake and exhaust on the exterior? Pointing them down. prevents dirt and rain from getting in them.
Good thing I watched this, I thought that split tube would plug right in...
glad we could help
I'm sure this is an odd question. I have a crawl space, and my HVAC return ducts are in the crawl space (supply is in the attic). Can I patch off my return duct to pull conditioned air into this ERV, and send the old air outside?
Even sillier question.....if I do that (and don't use the Y adapter), could I potentially send the stale air out through my existing dryer vent duct with a Y adapter? If I can do this without putting more holes in my house, I'm quite interested.
This particular one is a spot ERV so it is not self balancing and should not be connected to the central HVAC system. The reason to pull air from the outside and not the return is to get "fresh" air with Oxygen etc. You might be able to attach the exhaust to the dryer vent, however not sure what your house looks like. I'm assuming you have a ventless dryer and no longer need the vent.
Hey Matt, great video thanks for the input. Have you installed these in any cold climates? The documentation says that if the outdoor temp drops below 20F then the unit goes into exhaust only mode. Wondering if you have any experience with that thanks!
I live in a warm weather climate.
This is the response that I got from Panasonic:
OPERATION
FV- 1OVEC,2 is recommended for areas where temperatures can drop as low as -22°F (-30'° C), When the outdoor temperature is < -22°F (-30°C}, the defrost cycle is initiated and the product will stop operating for 47 minutes, then operate in heat exchange mode for 4 minutes in order to sample the outdoor temperature. lt then
operates in circulation mode for 9 minutes in order to defrost [exhaust and supply air are 50 CFM]. Defrost cycle overrides the ASHRAIE 62.2 timing function.
FV- 10VE2 is, recommended for areas when temperatures can drop as low as 14°F [-10°C). When he outdoor temperature is < 14°F (-10°C) the defrost cycle is initiated and the produce will stop operating for 56 mins. then operate in heat exchange mode for 4 minutes in order to sample the outdoor temperature (exhaust and supply air are 50 CFM). Defrost cycle overrides the ASHRAE 62.2 timing function.
This HRV is disigned to run constantly , when you turn it off cold air blows into your house vary impractical useless thing
nobody ever talks about the exhaust filter that is attached on the inside of the white cover
the little black merv 8 filter and all 3 filters to my understanding are to be dry vacced then placed back into the ventilator but I'm no expert. it's what the manual says to do though
Yes- the filters need to be maintained for optimal performance.
i just bought a house built 1990 with a semi-finished basement. i want to spend a lot of time down there but want fresh air, i am in the north east (NJ), their website says it only should run March-Nov in my area though. Also, any other options I should consider?
Can you share the link to where you got that information? I'll check with my rep to see what is best for you.
I’m in same situation-
Is it OK to run unit year round in climate Zone 5?
Great channel!
If I use one of these bad boys in an ~airtight cabin in climate zone 3 with one big room and one bathroom, what is your opinion on venting the bathroom? I feel like venting to the outside with even a 50cfm fan would create negative pressure in the house and defeat the purpose of this (40cfm) ERV. But if I use a through the wall fan to put bathroom air into the main room near the outtake vent on this ERV, I risk bringing farts into the room.
Or could I reasonably go without bathroom ventilation?
Thanks for your time and again for the video!
Good question. It really depends on where you live in Climate Zone 3- if you are dealing with humidity from the outside you could have to design for that as well.
I would not use a spot ERV for your situation. I would find one that is self balancing and can be zoned. This way it brings in make up air if you have a bath fan.
This may seem like over kill but this is what I would do if the Cabin in was in GA:
Bath Fan with motion and humidity sensor
Self balancing ERV (if you can find one small enough)
Ductless/ Ducted minisplit system to address comfort and Dew Point/ Humidity.
Let me know your current set up and I can make better suggestions.
@@SawHorseDesignBuild Great information again. Because it's going to be a big room/one bath and it's in a mixed humid area, I might forego an ERV to save on costs. My setup as of now will be a basic supply fan to exert positive pressure in the house and a 1.5ton ductless minisplit for humidity control during the summer. I am wondering if moisture from shower/cooking will be enough humidity when it gets "cold". Or if I will need to ventilate those as well. Always something I can do post construction as needed.
Thanks!
Here is a video response from Panasonic: ua-cam.com/video/DU5ytOG64qE/v-deo.html
Is this needed in a closed cell spray foamed detached garage/shop with just a mini split. Located in Florida. Just had spray foam added.
depends on what you are doing in the space. Sometimes an exhaust vent is better is you are creating a lot of dust. How are you using the space?
@@SawHorseDesignBuild mostly storage honestly, but i keep all my outdoor equipment out there. So slight fumes at times but i keep the garage door open for a few extra minutes before i close it. Just fumes from starting riding mower then driving it out and then putting it back in. I have a 9’ wide garage door and a standard 36” door plus 2 windows. It’s def tight though when i close the 36” door i can feel the slight pressure. If i open a window it closes with ease. Minisplit goes in this week. Plywood on walls but open ceiling attic area which of course is all foamed as well. Just a pain to add something now with all the foam on walls and roof.
I'm looking to install this in a ceiling that is 2 inch tongue and groove wood. Do you think it is possible?
I just looked at an older model and it looks like there is 2" clearance between the face of the box and the housing where the supply and exhaust come out. You might have to get creating with the brackets but I did see a way to make it work. Let me know if you want a short video on what I see and I can work on it next week.
How does it not short circuit on the interior without interior ducting? Won't the fresh air supplied just get sucked right back into the stale air return?
Some of it might. The air is directed away from the intake though.
How loud is it?
what is the max room size this unit can do? 600 sf?
It depends on where you use it. This unit is about 50 CFM.
This is what Panasonic says:
ASHRAE 62.2 2010 Standard
The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) set a standard for whole house ventilation, requiring that continuous mechanical ventilation be 7.5 CFM per bedroom (master bedroom X 2) plus 1 CFM per 100 square feet, with sone not to exceed 1.0. ASHRAE 62.2-2013 requires a ventilation rate of 7.5 CFM per person plus 3 CFM per 100 square feet. Please check with your local code to determine which ventilation standard you should follow. Panasonic WhisperComfort ERV is an affordable, efficient way to meet the ASHRAE 62.2 standard.
How do you add another filter? It sucks in the air through the outside and the rest is in the ceiling.
Add a filter box in the supply duct from the exterior. I think you can get a MERV 8 with the unit but anything greater would have to be a separate box. I'm working on the video in a few weeks to show how this can work.
@@SawHorseDesignBuild exterior of the house? Doesn't the split air inlet/exhaust have a large housing? Or do you mean exterior of the erv inside the room on the ceiling?
How does it transfer moisture though? Transfer heat is simple
Through capillary action in the enthalpic core. Good question, and deserves its own video.
can it be installed in the bathroom?
Great question. I would recommend ventilation only in a bathroom in most climate zones. Here is a video on the bathroom exhaust system we use: ua-cam.com/video/_2alDYBGKbs/v-deo.html
Will this cover a 1200sf room?
If the space is open- you should be okay. It really depends on the volume of space and the ventilation standard where you live as well.
@@SawHorseDesignBuild yeah its open space.
Hi Oliver🤗
Oliver is the best part of the video
Would this be useful in a garage to suck up cigarette smoke and bring in fresh air?
It could work for that if you are trying to not bring in extreme temperatures. I would upgrade to a MERV 13 filter to help the core last longer since smoke is involved. Also- be careful smoking in a garage since there are chemicals that are flammable. Exhaust-only fans might work better depending on where you are located.
@@SawHorseDesignBuild copy that thank you
That needs a 120V ?
yes- standard wiring
Rigid duct? Lol
I prefer rigid ducts for durability, however most would use flex on these models for ease of installation.
@@SawHorseDesignBuild do you also insulate the pipes? Durability? What's wrong with R-8 4" flex? All you are doing is taking extra time in a lot of times won't make sense to install hard pipes. Also charging extra to do hard pipe because of durability is crap. You are ripping people off.
It really depends on the location. If the ductwork is between floors where they are not going to be affected by other trades, then flex is fine.
This is by far the biggest joke in the new building code for basements. Biggest waste of money, time, and hassle. As soon as it’s inspected, shut the breaker off and doesn’t waste your time or money. Total joke.
Which climate zone are you in? What is your alternative ventilation strategy?