Food Plot Chemical Use Basics
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- Опубліковано 19 тра 2021
- Which food plot chemicals should you use, how much chemical should you add to your sprayer and when should you use food plot chemicals? Is your ATV sprayer calibrated and if not, how do you calibrate it? Learn the basic use of 4 food plot chemicals and more, in this video.
You can find out which food plot chemicals are the best fot for your specific parcel, by enrolling in my latest land design web class, at:
www.whitetailhabitatsolutions...
Make sure that you are getting the most out of all your food plot activities, by following my weather forecast deer hunting predictions when you head to the woods. Check out HuntCast, at:
huntwise.com/sturgis - Навчання та стиль
Jeff gives away so much valuable information for free. This is one channel I highly appreciate. 🦌
I just recently got licensed for commercial pesticides, and all i can say is that jeff knows his stuff, over a few month period i learned a lot about chemicals to study for my state tests and all i can say is that a lot of the study material was less informational than jeffs videos, i was studying from michigan state textbooks, and this guy taught me much much MORE and jeff makes it make sence, Jeff is a true wizard of this stuff!!
Sorry one more things suggestion. Glyphosate can be really hard on sprayer pumps. After rinsing my tank and sprayer after use I add enough RV antifreeze to my tank and run the pump to have my pump being put away with the antifreeze in the pump. It stops much of the corrosion that can occur in a dry pump. (Takes about a quart of ii in my situation)
Good timing on this video. I gotta go back through my plot and spray a couple green patches of weeds in prep of putting down my buckwheat. 👍
Thank you Jeff for the explanation. The mixtures you're going over is something I was trying to figure out! Your explanations make the things I have been reading much more clear!
You are very welcome John...happy to help!
Best Whitetail deer and food plot chemical information on UA-cam. This gives me more confidence in my chemical or herbicide mixtures while spraying food plots. I have a huge clover field in front of house for viewing deer and turkey and other wildlife and will use that clethodem this yr
Gosh, this makes so much more sense now! I had no idea how to spray slow enough for two quarts per acre....... Mix it! lol learning learning learning, love the videos!
Very helpful, Jeff PLEASE keep providing great, useful content.
Great stuff Jeff 👍 Have a great day all!
Thanks a lot Mike, you too!
Thank you Jeff. We can’t even rely on our feed mill for info like this
You are very welcome Bob I hope it helps!
This is GOOD stuff Jeff,I look at it the same way .Change in the weather,in cover and food sources Bucks have to change as well.Knowing where they will be when those changes happen is key for a good hunt and success...
I hope you are on a good one Tex 😊 Miss the days of cold Sept rain, shooting broadhead league and hot dogs on the grill. The good one days?
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Broad head leagues just ended,Bowhunters Jamboree going on today and yea ,loved those Hot Dogs!!
big part of food plotting. great topic.
Great information Jeff.
Great stuff. Did not know about using dirty water with Glyphosate. Been using water from a watering hole. Haven't had a problem yet, but will switch to fresh water.
Great video went to my land sprayed glyphosate and 24-d as directed by Jeff with my fimco 5 nozzle pull behind took approximately 30 minutes to cover 3/4 of an acre Memorial Day weekend will be spreading buckwheat to help with the soil and it’s also a great smother/cover crop really helps to keep the weeds at a minimum. Always exciting when preparing foodplots love it oh one thing lot easier riding my 4 wheeler and spraying compared too walking with a backpack sprayer. much more efficient!
Jeff, thank you so much for all of the valuable information you give out thru your channel. I did the ultimate no till food plot system last year and had the best food plots I've ever had. My granddaughter killed the biggest buck we've killed off "Poppy's Place" since we've owned it since 2016. Grandpa was with her and memories were made. I had to overseed the cereal rye pretty heavy due to the drought we had. Unfortunately this spring, due to the wet weather, I wasn't able to get into the plots until 14 days ago May 6th. The Rye had grown up to about 4 1/2- 5 feet tall. I caught it in the doe stage, before the seed had matured, but I still have a dead thick standing crop of rye. Should I go in and mow it and at what height, to plant my buckwheat in mid June or so? I'm going to have to do something or the sun won't hit the ground make the buckwheat grow. Suggestions? Thank you Sir!!
Great video Jeff!
Thanks a lot Jon!
Used your switch method with Simazine this year to a T. Timing was just right soil is bare here in S. Ohio with a flush of switch coming through.
The nozzles will have a LPM or GPM rating for different PSI ranges. Amazing setups either way. For insecticide I prefer the smaller particles.
Great video. I’m big on control weeds. Spray,Spray,Spray
Great video
Tremendous informational video as always Jeff. I hope you do a video on plot start this year. I have a question on how you work it into your no till system. Do you apply the plot start after you roll your buckwheat?
Awesome stuff! I know you have a lot of experience, but I can't believe how much info you have. Did you study this in school?
Jeff, very helpful video thank you! I'm curious about crop oil or a surfactant. Are they helpful or needed to get a good kill?
Thanks for the content! Hey Jeff, two things... One, when you recap the chemicals, you said that glyphosate is a pre-emergant and I think you meant to say post-emergent. Second one is a question... Do you use the same tanks and the same sprayers to use for all of your chemicals, or do you use different ones for different chemicals? I would think that using glyphosate and Plot Start might have some conflict... Thanks!
Jeff,
Love your videos! I am implementing your no till / buckwheat system this year. Spread my fields on 5/8.
My question...can you broadcast "SWITCHGRASS" into the buckwheat this summer, crush the buckwheat, spray it with the chemicals to kill it?
I plan on taking off the old debris in the winter and using simazine next spring. Will this work?
Thank you,
If you can do a video about or talk about surfactants. The round up plus or generics with plus includes surfactants. Thank you Jeff for all your great videos.
Jeff how do you plan to incorporate the crimper from PackerMaxx into your system and do you think this will eliminate 1 or 2 spraying applications?
I see the question all the time and it's like people don't want you to explain they just want a direct answer: "how many quarts do I put in the sprayer tank?". Depends how big your tank is, how fast you drive, and how wide your spray pattern is. I created a spreadsheet to do this somewhere.
Fimco and NorthStar (Northern Tools brand) included those "spreadsheet" charts with my ATV sprayers.
Great video.
When should I spray plot start before buckwheat planting or when I plant the brassicas or peas.beans.oats.
Thanks
Dang good question. I was going to ask the same thing.
It depends - maybe both times. Or a mix of PlotStart AND pelletized lime. Plotstart is a "quick fix" to low pH, which you would apply before or during seeding. Buckwheat is more tolerant of lower pH than the others, so if your pH is still low when you plant your follow-up crop(s), you might need to spray it again. Pelletized lime will take longer to increase the pH, but will "last" longer because it takes longer to break down. So, you could consider putting out some pelletized lime along with PlotStart , with the PlotStart giving you an almost immediate pH boost and the pelletized lime giving you a longer term increase - just don't "over do it". One 2.5 gallon container of PlotStart is supposed to be the equivalent of 1 ton of lime, so if your soil test calls for 1.5 tons/acre, then put out 1000 lbs of pelletized lime AND spray one 2.5 gallon container of Plotstart. You'll get 2/3 of the lime requirement in a "quick boost" with the Plotstart and a "slow release" of the other 1/3 with the bagged lime.
Jeff, what would be your suggestion be to spray on an established plot of Northwoods Whitetails fall forage blend and whitetail forage radishes, less than 1/4 acre, to control weeds and grasses? Will be using plot start and plot boost as well. Thanks for your help!
hand pick the weeds or kill it all and re plant some idea Jeff presented is that linger affect. He drove over trees so not likely a raddish will make it.
One question about the Plot Start. I do not have a spreader other than a greenway 2750 hand spreader. Can I substitute putting down lime with the Plot Start?
should i still till the soil up and use chemicals or should i just use the chemicals? new hunter here!
Round up is 2qts per acre but you suggest three sprays per plot in past videos. My question is basically are you using 2qts for each spray times three separate sprays or does it go with a smaller ratio the more you spray?
Really enjoy all your helpful videos. Question on planting buckwheat do I have to till before planting or can broadcast like rye
You can broadcast like winter rye as long as you have seed to soil contact. Last year I sprayed rye with roundup & broadcast buckwheat 2 weeks later & experienced a "Great" stand.
@@geraldconway9737 It would also help to cultipack after broadcasting. The PackerMAxx is a great tool for that. My hunt club started borrowing mine for all its plots and it's made a big difference in germination rate.
May give that a try this year as I have a PackerMaxx...had a good stand of buckwheat last year by just broadcasting. Will do a side by side comparison this year with & without cultipacking with PackerMaxx.
PackerMaxx does a good job crushing Buckwheat.
Jeff, I’m looking to spray Simazine on corn this year. Should I spray it when I plant the corn?
Any thoughts on Atrazine before switch?
What’s your take on the herbicide crossbow? I have a lot of blackberries that keep popping up in my plots.
Jeff, excellent detail and review. One question...what PSI do you run when you spray. I just purchased a new 18' sprayer with a foam for my UTV, working great I just got tired of not knowing where I had sprayed. thanks, Bob
Also do you neutralize, or clean out your sprayer after each use?
Best Advice I can offer is to spray a tank or two of water to figure out approximately what the coverage area is on a tank of water. I wish I had a spray pump where I could actually have enough pressure to set it as every small sprayer I have used may pump up to 60 PSI but drop dramatically when you open the valve to send water to the spay tips. I would shoot for somewhere between 20 and 30 psi. At 20 most tips will break the spay and start making a good pattern and keep getting better as you approach 30 psi. Keep in mind you will spray a larger amount of water at 30 psi as opposed to 20 psi and reduce the area a tank will spray. My spray experience started years ago on a farm tractor using both pto and hydraulic pumps where you adjusted the pressure down using a regulator on top of the tank which also kept agitation in the tank to keep the mix. If you have an electric pump with an 18' spray area post the brand and model of the pump as having too much PSI has never been an issue I have had to face however it would be a good problem to have as it would allow tank agitation. I currently have a 60 psi pump (1.8 gpm) with a single plastic Northern Tool nozzle (about $15) that struggles to keep 20 psi and covers about 15 feet (12 feet of real spray area allowing 18" of overlap).
Bart, thanks for the response. I have had all kinds of inexpensive sprayers, and finally bit the bullet and purchased an F/S with a Honda 4hp gas engine. I have plenty of pressure on the 18' coverage and have been spraying about 30-35 psi, but am thinking that getting it lower down to around 25psi would give me more droplets opposed to a fine spray. I currently spray approximately 10 gal per acre. I'm also wondering about neutralizing and cleaning the tank after each use so the spray tips don't clog and also give a longer life to the pump. Just wondering what other folks are doing. Thanks again.
@@rfb7117 I spray a lot of acreage every year for food plots. I run my sprayer around 20-25 psi, at about 4mph, and cover 1 acre with about 15 gallons. A full 25 gallon tank at those numbers will cover about 1.5-1.75 acres.
Thanks for the info Jared......getting a little worried we are experiencing a draught and the buckwheat is just sitting on the ground waiting for rain.
Dumb question, but you mention the weeds have to be grown for the glyphosate to work properly...can I brush hog to knock the weeds down, THEN spray glyphosate? I am new to food plotting/spraying as you can tell. Thanks!
Do you use 2 different sprayers? 1 for just Glyphosate to kill weeds and a different sprayer for the plot start and plot boost? Thanks
Hi Mark, I do not. I just wash the tank out in between. At times I use the UTV sprayer for one and the ATV for the other...but washing out has worked great.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Thank You
Jeff have you looked into plot dr. at all? I’ve been using the plot boost and plot starter on my plots in wv where I can’t get lime to but was considering trying the plot dr. to test out.
We haven't only because we have been really happy with the Deer Gro products!
Hey Jeff,, I sprayed simazine mid april on some frost seeded switchgrass. I know I exceeded the 3 qts per acre, probably 4 - 5.Is that going to kill the seed and require reseeding or just delay germination? Thanks
What ended up happening?
What would you spray to kill golden rods?
Do you ever get concerned about fires when killing off a field with Gly/ 2-4D? Once you fry the vegetation and it becomes dry, I dont want a landowner concerned that we may have an increased fire hazard. How can we offset the risk, ease their mind?
Just wondered if you can cut in July Switch mixed with Egyptian Wheat to control weeds or will I need to Spray with Gly or 2-4-D ?
You will definitely need to mow...partly to cut thr EW out as well...you can't let that get taller than the switch or it can easily shade out the switch and kill it. Learned that the hard way many years ago...
Sometime when I watch your videos I’m so lost on what your saying it’s like your speaking a different language and then there’s times it all makes sense. I just think it’s kinda funny. But with the plot start, should you spray then seed or spray and wait a period of time then seed or seed then spray. Or does it really not matter at that point?
Can you spray 24D on egyptian wheat that is 2" tall?
Jeff, do you use any surfactant in your glyphosate to help with the kill? Or does the product you use all ready have it in there? I see people using dawn dish soap to help break the surface tension to allow the plants to absorb the glyphosate better. Also, have you found Ammonium sulfate is needed with most well water due to the minerals ruining the glyphosate? Cheers!
Doesn’t flow rate per nozzle have a play in the amount of spray you put down along with mph?
Yes, but most quality ATV size tanks have the suggested tank PSI (which is basically = flow rate for a given nozzle design) along with the MPH to match with the nozzles that came with the tank/boom set up. Height above the ground for the nozzles also affects coverage.
Hey Jeff. Great video. Do you use dye to see where you've sprayed?
Huh, never thought of that! 👍
Tried it and it did not work for me.......
@@rfb7117 same here - I had to use an awfully high concentration to really show up (much higher than the suggested mix rate). But on the otherhand, one drop of dye in the wrong place seems to never go away.
Savage, you are correct...not sure I ever got the concentration high enough to help seeing in the field, but if I got it anywhere it was not wanted it was really difficult to remove.
Also wondering if you use a preemergent in corn after the corn has sprouted? If so which one? Thanks
No, it will kill it
Probably use roundup
@@whitetailhabitatandhunting yes I use Roundup but on rainy years I have to hit the corn twice before fourth whorl or I’ll loose the weed control game. Thought maybe a preemergent would alleviate the second spray.
@@whitetailhabitatandhunting Round-up is OK on "roundup ready" corn - be sure you know what your corn seeds are.
What should I do with the winter rye that came in this spring?
cut it right before maturity. GrowingDeer on UA-cam crimps it. I cut it with brush hog and it helps keep duff or mulch on soil ro protect from sun, erosion, and wind. But many ways buddy, many ways...
@@travisethridge4062 thank you for the insight
@@aaronkorsmo Also depends on how you are going to plant your following crop - NO Till Drill or Broadcast. Grant (Growing Deer) is able to terminate the rye by crimping and laying it flat, because he is able to drill the seeds through the mat and into the soil for good soil contact. You couldn't broadcast very effectively after crimping (if you have a thick mat of rye or buckwheat) because you wouldn't get good soil contact for most of your seeds.
@@savagehunter3739 thank you for that. I will be sure to broadcast and then cut probably with a weed whacker. I don't have a large plot so not a big deal.
Does the 2,4 kill clover at that ratio you suggested?
At a quart per acre, 24db should kill most of your broadleaf without killing clover, which is exactly what it's designed to do.
I have emailed multiple times with no response to hire you or your associates
Super bummed.
Been emailing since December 2020
I am a female hunter from Michigan.
I have bought and read your books and am an avid fan.
😢😢😢
Ok
Clethodim , Butyrac 200 also known as 24dB when sprayed on a Established clover plot would be okay and won’t terminate the clover??
Clover is a legume not a broadleaf so you're good. I spray mine with 24D every year. Clethodim and 24D is my go to.
Look into a chemical called Imox. Kills both grasses and broadleafs and is safe for clover and alfalfa. Replaces the need for two chemicals.
@@wolfpack4128 Make SURE you are using the Butyrac 200 (24dB) and not 24D (Amine) on clover. 24D (Amine) will KILL clover. READ THE LABEL and don't depend on videos only for information.
Raptor (imox) is the most efficient way to maintain a clover plot. But clethodim 2e (arrest) and butyrac 200(slay)(24d-b) works as well.
@@platinumwearer20 True but they cannot be applied simultaneously so it's twice the work.
I have a clover plot that has rag weed and dandelions that I cant kill
What happens if you over apply.
Not much? Better than under applying
Don’t lose that yellow spray tip. Damn things are $50 a pop.
So you can plant 2 weeks after spraying 2-4d?
A week is fairly safe, but I wouldn't plant the same day
@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 thank you Jeff I appreciate the reply.
Do you ever add a surfactant?
That goes back to reading the label for the chemical you are using. Everything I spray except Clethodim already has surfactant included in the chemical or else does not require it. Clethodim (at least the variation I purchase) requires a surfactant.
@@bartrowe3705 agreed, just wanted to put it out there for a discussion topic for those who don’t know
Is there a chemical that kills broad leaf but will not kill clover and radish?
24db won't kill clover by design, but radish is going to die
I really just want to no the oz per gallon to kill on 1 pass lol I don’t think that’s an unreasonable equation
Didn't you watch the Video? the main point of it is that you have to forget about "oz per gallon" because the coverage rate of the "gallons" you are spraying is the important factor. For example you need to evenly spray 2 quarts of glyphosate over one acre, one pint of 2, 4D over one acre, etc. Whether you do that mixed in 10 gallons of water or 100 gallons doesn't make a difference. Your individual sprayer speed, tank pressure, nozzle height above the ground, spray width, etc. will determine how many gallons of water you should use to get even coverage. Example: Look at Page 41 of the Northstar ATV Sprayer manual for the calibration table: www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/2681101.pdf
I'm still waiting on a reply from someone regarding, HOW TO DESIGN YOUR DEER HUNTING PARCEL, It's been two weeks.🤔🤔🤔
What are you waiting on? Try Diane at ddefran70@gmail.com. Have no clue what you are waiting on...
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 I filled out the form to get in touch with someone, on your website, basically stating that I'll buy the book right now, If you guys do any Military appreciation discount. And I can show proof, if that's an issue.
Why the hell would you want your food source to eat that trash. The best part of wild game is its wild. Throw chemical and gmo bullshit on it is a no go.
But when the deer/wild game walks across the street or property line to the neighbors corn/soybean field that has been sprayed with the same exact chemicals, that makes it more "wild" and true to nature?
@@Gacklex2552 very true. I only hunt the mountains so for me its not a concern. But I think we need to be careful with that crap if we can be. Not trying to judge or be elitist. But some of that spray is cancerous
@@hesko125 You drank the "anti-glyphosate" Kool-aid, didn't you? It's been proven to be safe - but ambulance chasing lawyers keep doing their thing....they get paid, win or lose.
@@savagehunter3739 good luck with that. Half the shit we spray and plant in the us is illegal in most the rest of the world. Not worth a chance. I am just saying maybe it would be best to avoid.