You are a life-saver! I wish I had found your video before flooding the handle screw with LimeAway, penetrating oil, propane torch, etc. Your video gave me the confidence to just snap it off. Great, well paced production.
I just wanna say thank you! Watched your video and $120 later I have a working shower again! I dont know how much money you saved me so just wanted to say thanks.
I’ve watched hundreds upon hundreds of videos on UA-cam including a few on how to ride a motorcycle which actually taught me the basics. This video by far has been the top 3 most helpful, thank you 👍🏼
Hi, I just replaced the spindle, diverter, and hot/cold seats by watching your video and it totally worked! No more tub dripping. Couldn't have done it without your video, so thanks! (Also, worth noting that Symmons sent me the parts for free - I just emailed them and told them the problem. They sent out the spindle, hot/cold seats, and that funky tool. I had to buy the diverter, but only cost about $5)
Thanks for the video - my shower didn't work at all and replacing the TA-10 cartridge did the trick. Works better than ever. The only glitch was that the fitting holding it in was really tight. I had to put all my strength into it and was afraid that I would break the pipe. But it finally budged and the rest of the repair was easy. Thanks!
Thanks for posting this. Spent $20 in parts and saved $150+ in plumber's fees. Supply shop was out of 4 in 1 tools so I used a large hex wrench and an easy out to remover the diverter valve. Worked great.
+gpvolk48 You're welcome, Glad we could help get you back up and running and some money. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment.
I have had a leak for a long time & finally found the leak coming from the diverter. This was a great detailed video. I purchased a complete new valve and took out the parts to rebuild. Thank you.
+Ron H Yea that is a common problem the o-ring on the diverter fails causing a leak sometimes small so it takes a while to notice it. Thanks and thank you for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment.
This is a great vid! Simple, clear, no horrible folksy filler. My son and I just used it to replace nearly all the parts in our shower. A few notes: we could not get the handle off, even using a puller tool, so we ended up using a recip saw to (carefully) cut off the end of the spindle. Just as the guy in the plumbing supply store said we would probably have to do! Having one of those cool 4-way tools would be helpful, but we did the job with the slab wrenches that came with the spindle, and used a lag screw to remove the shower diverter, no problem. We puzzled over the rotational orientation of the shower diverter, but it turns out it doesn't matter. And finally, use only Symmons parts! I bought a kit on eBay, turns out it was made in China, and although the spindle looked identical to the Symmons, the threads were wrong, and it would not screw on all the way. I even bought a new Symmons cap assembly, but the spindle would not mate to that either. When I bought a new Symmons spindle, the problem disappeared, and the rest of the job was quick. Thanks again for your vid!
You're welcome, Glad we could help get your shower back up and running again without to many problems. Yes, stick with OEM parts for the rebuild. Yea the older metal handles never come off easy. I think I have hand maybe a hand full pop off it it was because the screw was loose so there was movement while it was being used so it didn't get stuck on the spindle. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment.
Thank you for the video, I had the laptop in the bathroom and used it as reference during my attempt. One thing that may be helpful to mention is that the cold seat may not come out even with the use of the Raven tool or the Symmons tool(this appears to be a common online complaint). Due to the built-up corrosion on the cold seat's threads, the grooves on the cold seat will round off well before the cold seat opens loose. I ended up using a #8 pipe extractor to remove my cold seat.
GREAT video! Complete and concise. Suggest an adjustable wrench rather than channel-locks. You can apply far more torque, and it doesn't scar the brass. The other suggestion (and I had to do this) was to cover the edges of the hole with aluminum foil and apply a torch to the valve. No way was it coming off without heat. With heat, took a few seconds.
Thank you this video helped me tons! took me 20 min to fix but probably only would have taken me 5 to 10 min if I had watched this before rather then half way into the job
Just a heads up, from another, more recent tutorial I watched: if you replace the spindle with a new one, you need to get a new retaining nut (the large piece of brass removed at 1:13) as well. The old nut won't fit the new spindle.
You forgot the part where you had to torch the thing to get it out ...thanks!! Never met an honest plumber yet; right up there with most auto mechanics
I watched your video on how to change a symmons temptrol shower tub spindle and diverter. Very good video.. When using the shower setting, there was water flow to the tub. Yesterday, I changed the diverter. It was difficult getting it out and the oring had deteriorated.. I cleaned the inside, applied plumbers grease to the inside, and greased the new one before inserting it. Since I couldn't insert the new diverter in far enough by pushing it, I used the 4 way tool with a few mallet taps. After completing the assembly, the water flow has decreased quite a bit but
Mine was dripping from beneath the handle. After watching this vedio, all I did was tighten the packing nut a litte and the dripping stopped. Thank you so much!!!
Terrific instructions. I need to replace the diverter spindle. It looks really easy. I just need to buy a 4-way tool. EDIT: Symmons told me to use an old toothbrush & white vinegar to clean any debris from the channel (the toothbrush/vinegar worked great), & not to use a wire brush.
Your welcome. Yes I have had a few stuck cold seats not to many for how many I have repaired... normally they come out with an easy out. I have had one that didn't and I ended up having to replace the valve. Glad it all worked out for you.
Great video, I had done a diverted replacement about 10 years ago and just needed a refresher. One trick is to use a food grade silicone grease to lubricate the o-ring and bore which makes the fix last much longer.
I wanna give you a big thank first and then I share my experience here for people. I live in a condo (1st floor). There was a big bathroom repair upper floor and apparently they cut down copper pipes all day long. They had to shut off water for entire lines (my unit and other units above me) because we share the main valve to shut the water off. After the construction was over, I used bath tub and I saw a lot of copper debris coming out of the faucet. And then the dripping started. I found out that copper debris were stacked inside the Symmons valve so the cartridge couldn't be fully closed. I changed the cartridge and also changed hot and cold seats anyway, as it was a good chance to change those probably after more than a decade. Note that recent Symmons shower diverter is (RTS 126 or something) different from the previous one (TA52 or something. There is TA52A and TA52B.). Unless hot/cold seats are really stuck, this is really an easy job. I don't have any dripping anymore and saved probably a couple of hundred bucks.
Thomas Deeny If your talking about the chrome cover that covers the spindle. There are ones that thread onto the packing nut. So just turn the chrome cover and remove. Some have a small metal nut that holds it in place. Loosen and remove the nut and then remove the chrome cover.
Awesome, Glad to hear you fixed your leaking diverter. You're welcome, Glad we could help. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment. Don't forget to give the video a thumbs up. Thanks
Hello, You can't get the spindle out? or you can't get the cover off over the spindle? If you have the cover off you should be able to grab the spindle with a pair of channel lock pliers you might need a longer set and turn it counter clockwise. If that doesn't work maybe try a set of vise grips and place it at the 9 o'clock position and tap the vise grips with a hammer that might jar it loose. If you have a torch handy try heating it a bit that has worked for me also.
Good job. Thanks for the informative video. Back then, (2012) the typical hand tools could strip the seats that would result in ripping out the entire valve and replacing it. Check out the Zip Seat Extractor for the easiest way to rebuild your next Symmons valve!
You can just replace the diverter if your having problems with it not switching from tub to shower or if you get water coming out the tub spout. If its leaking water while shut off then you will need to replace the spindle. Its a good idea to change both while you have it apart.
You need to have the valve almost all the way open/ turned on as the spindle will it the front of the spindle housing while loosening it. When your tightening it , the spindle also needs to be open as it will bottom out on the seats and stop turning making it so you can tighten the spindle housing back to the vavle.
You're welcome, Glad we could give you the confidence to take on this repair. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment. Don't forget to give the video a thumbs up. Thanks
No one used to carry it besides real supply houses/ plumbing stores. But it seems now they do - www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plumber-s-Choice-Four-in-One-Wrench-Extractor-Tool-for-Symmons-Temptrol-TPCWST/305980233?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D26P-G-D26P-26_7_PLUMBING_REPAIR_And_REPLAC-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-General&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D26P-G-D26P-26_7_PLUMBING_REPAIR_And_REPLAC-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-General-71700000033850300-58700003919643946-92700031584469514&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3s_4BRDPARIsAJsyoLOZuhiDVImPgJY-MQxcIDu9MJLeUlYrAUXgmGPujaOlD5eS0veW5gcaAuUzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Amazon as well - amzn.to/2ZIFASo
Im finna try this bro love the video my bathroom shower been leakin a lot slightly and I’m not Sure what it could be but im thinking tightening the inner components can do the trick
Hello and thank you so much for responding. It is actually the cap gasket (part #T-11) that I can not remove. I got it to move about 1/2 inch and it will not budge any further. I'm afraid that I will either strip it or damage the plumbing in the wall.I was hoping there was something I could spray on it like brake cleaner or liquid wrench? I'm thinking I might have to get my hands on a torch.
Hello, Is it the main handle? If it is remove the handle and tighten the packing nut.(0.47). If you end up breaking the handle off then you will have to replace the spindle as well. You can try and work it off with two flat screw drivers. If it is leaking out of the diverter handle then you will need to replace the diverter as it has an o-ring on the end of the diverter.
Yes I replaced the spindle.. You don't have to change the spindle if it tempers/ works properly and your problem is that the diverter is leaking or not working. I always do both as i figure i already have it open and hate to have it leak or stop temping shortly after.
Hello,shut offs to shower wide open? the spindle has a pressure balancing valve,it could be stuck letting more cold water in.Before you change the spindle check the little brass screw in the spindle housing.If you stop my video a 1:00 you can see it. that screw is used to control the temp. Screwed in it keeps the temp cooler screwed out it should get warmer in temp be careful not to go too far as it will get hot like your facets. Go a little bit and try it and repeat. let me know if it solved it
I only replaced the spindle and the valve but the leak is still there. Do you think I need to change anything else ? Please hope to hear back. Thank you.
@@ritari7447 What kind of leak? like the spout is dripping when its off? You may want to check or replace the brass seats that the spindle seals to. With some of the newer spindles you need to replace the seats as well as they don't seal for some reason or your seat may have a nic or corrosion causing it not to fully seal.
You can get the diverter (the white part in the video) out by using the raven tools 4-way wrench or a 5/16" X 3" long Lag bolt. twist it into the end of the diverter and then put it out. Be careful not to over tighten it and it will expand and hit the housing and will stop it from sliding out. If you are still having trouble feel free to check out my website by click the link in the description and the first large paragraph will give you a few tips on how to get it out. Hope this helps,Good Luck
This video is great - I keep getting a leak through the middle of the diverter when I replace it and test the water (similar to 4:35 above). I thought maybe the o-ring wasn't sitting against the valve but I got it pretty good with a wire brush. I even went to the store and got a another o-ring thinking I got a faulty one, but no dice. I've got pretty acidic water with lots of iron and am starting to think it could be corroded. Think it's time for a completely new valve, or any other ideas?
+Steve Kidd Thanks. umm.. I would say clean it with a wire brush like I did. The diverter should come with the o-ring already on it. Maybe try another diverter complete and see if it seals after that. I have had the housing get a hairline crack in it right in the diverter tube part of the shower valve causing one not to seal. Also check to see if the o-ring got ripped or damaged from when you pushed it in.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! That damned spindle is OUT - I threw it in a bucket of CLR to soak for a few days (my water is hard and the stuff builds up in the spindle so it won't work.....now I have a spare ;) ) my boiler is primed and I'm about to have my first shower in a good 6 months! So excited!
Sue Hunt Ok, so I replaced the spindle valve and I STILL don't have hot water. I wonder if the stop screw has some build up or something preventing hot water? Although I tried screwing it in & out and testing, but that only made the handle move more or less, but did nothing about the temperature.
+Sue Hunt Hello, Did you get the shower back in working order? Hopefully you installed a brand new spindle as this type of valve uses a balancing valve in the end of the spindle. ( If you turn the spindle end for end you should hear it slide back and fourth) Which means if you water is as hard as you say it could be holding the balancing part of the valve all the way to cold. Also you had to turn off the hot and cold supply to the shower valve it is very possible that the hot valve didn't open back up not allowing the hot water to reach the shower valve. The screw on the face cone of the shower valve is the anti-scald valve if you screw that outward it will allow the water to come out hotter.
I only have the MAIN water shutoff - no separate shutoff for the shower, so I had to turn ALL the water off. I'm told it could be either the flow control (that's broken) from my boiler or the domestic hot water coil, also in the boiler - both of those are beyond me. Yeah, the shower is still in working order, it just doesn't get HOT.
In an old condo I just bought, have the Symmons Temptrol. Face plate almost unreadable, but noticed Temptrol '76 ... so really old. Tub spout is leaking. To check if it has the water turn off stoppers built in I tried to open take off the knob as shown in video, but it just won't come off. Could this be because water has not been turned off and it is creating pressure on the knob (unlikely) OR there is hard sediment built up over the years and the knob is stuck (more likely). Thoughts and suggestions welcome please. (Great video BTW. Gives me, a newbie confidence. The water was not turned off because it requires going through the HOA to turn it off for the building! Was trying to see if there is a stop mechanism in my really old valve, so I could operate independently of HOA requests, time constraints, and without engaging a plumber once I have an the right parts ... taking my time).
got ya. Can you turn the spindle? or did it break off even with the cap. If you can grab the spindle with a pair of needle nose or something and turn it so its a few turn away from closed it should make it easier.. or is it all corroded because it was leaking? I have had good luck with PB blaster or Kroil. A torch might be your best bet.
Yes, the main temperature, on/off handle. The main handle was easily removed by removing the single philips screw. So, I will just tighten the packing nut for now to see if it fixes the leak before I start replacing any parts. Thank you!
You're welcome, Glad we could help. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment. Don't forget to give the video a thumbs up/ like. Thanks
Excellent video, you saved me from calling a professional. Where do you find that special 4 way tool? Secondly for other DIYers Symmons offers a life warranty on all parts. So I just called them and they sent out the diverter valve and diverter knob for free
Thanks for the kind words, watching and taking the time to leave us a comment. Don't forget to give the video a thumbs up/ like if you haven't already. Thanks
I followed the repair and it worked well. I do notice that the handle is a little hard to turn. Any idea why? Could the packing nut be too tight? Thanks
Question! Our shower caddy fell and cracked the knob of our temptrol shower plate - our shower is otherwise working fine, but the knob handle should be replaced. Do you think we would need to do this whole replacement? Or just shut off the water and put on a new knob using the first couple of steps?
10+ years later this still hold true. Parts readily available at Home Depot, including the tool kit. All in ~$130 in March 2023. All backwards compatible. Thanks for the how to @theDIYGuyDOTnet.
Does the housing gasket you installed come with the new spindle? I've seen a different brand spindle that shows a similar gasket that comes with their spindle but I prefer to stick with the same OEM brand. Please let me know when you can... thanks!
What do you mean by leaking... leaking out the main or diverter handle? still dripping out of the spout or is it running out of the spout? Leaking out the diverter or leaking inside the wall?
Don't know if anyone said it, but make sure the valve is all the way open, turn the handle past hot. It will make so you will be able to remove the spindle housing.
In case anybody wants to know: I snapped off the old spindle stem and managed to get it out of the old handle! It was REALLY in there-- what worked for me was threading a screw in and using a torch to heat the inside of the handle and then prying. Oops, forgot to lube up the new stem, I'll have to remove the handle and do that!
If you just need to chang the divertor valve do you need to shut off the water? My shut off valve seems to be stuck so I am just checking before I start this process
Yes you can use an allen wrench off the top of my head I cant remember the size. Then to remove the diverter you can use a 5/16 3" long lag bolt since you wont have the 4 way tool.
I'm trying to get mine open to check if I have the screw valves (can't shut off the main water in my condo) but even channel locks aren't helping me remove the handle and part of me is really scared if I try too hard I might somehow break the cartridge.. Any advice?
Hi my shower valve leaks hot water constantly, I have the same exact shower valve but looking up a kit to rebuild it like you have done in this video brings up so many options im not sure which to chose. Could you please leave a link or parts number for me to look up? Great video btw! Thank you!
+Will Keeler I don't. Next time I take one apart I will do a detailed/ close up video on the seat replacement. You will need the seat removal tool. (link on our website) You will need to insert the removal tool turn turn it with a pair of pliers and remove the seats. You will want to remove the outside one first( bigger one) then the inside one (smaller one). When reinstalling them install the small one first then the larger one.
Thank you so much for this. I have a problem with my Symmons handle: the handle for turning the water on and off is very stiff, it's very hard for me to turn it; once I wrestle the water on, it is otherwise fine. Would doing the replacement in your video fix this very stiff shower handle problem?
I recently replaced my spindle and fixed my shower. I have a question though. The spindle that I removed looks to be in good shape and can still here the "check valve". Can these be cleaned and rebuilt to be reused again?
Did the replacement, thank you for this. Stopped a really annoying drip. I was hoping that it would help with the pressure but if anything it seems a little worse. There is also more water coming out of the tub when the shower is running. Any thoughts? Greatly appreciate it. SJ
Did you replace just the Spindle? or did you also replace the diverter? The diverter is what controls where the water goes. The white colored diverter is for the tub shower. The black colored one is for shower only and is a volume control.
TheDIYGuyDOTnet I replaced everything. Both the spindle and the diverter were hard to get out and the diverter was hard hard to put back in. I have a shower/tub so I used the white diverter. I didn't have the wire brush but i used a toothbrush to clean the area. I am going to replace the shower head as well just in case that will help. I cleaned the screen in the head. I increased the water pressure in the house but that made no difference. Thanks for the quick response!
READ THIS FIRST BEFORE INSTALLION!!. This guy is a hack and leaves out 2 important steps to install the new Symmons Spindle valve. 1st! He doesn't tell you that you have to have the Spindle itself all the way to left ( completely open ) or else u WILL NOT be able to screw the valve from pipe! 2ND! The New inner and outter Symmons couplings require a bigger tool that you have to purchase. The 4 way in this video will get the old outter and inner coupling yes BUT to install the new couplings you have to buy the new tool!......watching this hack job made a 15-30 min job a whole day affair for me as I had to figure out BOTH of these things on my own. Remember when removing the old valve make sure the Spindle is all the way turned to the left , 2nd make sure you buy the new tool for the new inner and outter couplings, it's a 3 piece set , hope I helped
how did you get the tub/shower lever thing out?(the area you used the small brush)Mine will not come out and Im scared to apply pressure to it for fear it will snap off in the valve.
Hi, I have a question. My kitchen sink and bathro sink water is hot or should I say scalding hot. But when it comes to the shower, its lukewarm. What do you think might be the problem is. And I have the same shower
I just a question regarding the handle ever few weeks I have take the cap of and retighten the screw because the handle will become loose. Do you have any recommendations? A low strength thread lock?
Well I got the valve and put it in tonight, I get mostly hot water ?? and the valve has to be turned EXTREMELY hard in the off position to get the water to turn off. It came with a new washer. Having said that the old one that didnt work DID turn the water off. Any ideas. Thanks Deano
Sometimes the new cartridges don't seal or shut off without replacing the seats. Did the spindle/ cartridge move freely? Can hear a ball move around as you shake it. Both valves open fully?
My diverter do not move left and right , im trying to replace it , and is hard to put it back and do not goes left and right, there is any grease to help it?
+R Dixon if the shower is leaking/ dripping sometimes you can get away with just replacing the spindle. Other times the new spindle for some reason with not align with the old seats. So it will not properly shut off.
Hi DIY Guy please allow me to ask a question please. My question is the diverter on this faucet is it adjustable. left or right for control of the temperture of the water? My shower is not as hot as the rest of the house faucets, I can't even enjoy a good hot shower any longer. please reply a.s.a.p. Most apreciated.
Hello, I am not sure I follow what your asking.. but the diverter is the white part I replaced in the video. The diverter in this tub/shower valve switches it between the tub and the shower function. If it were a shower only it would be black in color and would be a volume control. The brass part was the spindle.. that controls the hot and cold function. It sounds like you need to replace the spindle as the balancing/ tempering part of the valve is bad. There's a link to the parts/ tools need to do this if you click the link in the description.
Hello, I have the water shut off and everything pulled apart. I CAN NOT get the spindle loosened. I have tried everything. The original handle broke off and the area it grips on t) had stripped because it was leaking and we had to turn it really hard to shut off with vise grips. If I don't figure out how to get the spindle out and get the new one on there, I can't turn the water back on because the water just streams out of it now. We will have no bathroom. Any suggestions?
+Ben S Hello, Not sure if you will find it but you might. Its made by raven tools. IF you can't find it if you click the link in the description it will take you to our website will it will give other items you can use instead.
You are a life-saver! I wish I had found your video before flooding the handle screw with LimeAway, penetrating oil, propane torch, etc. Your video gave me the confidence to just snap it off. Great, well paced production.
I just wanna say thank you! Watched your video and $120 later I have a working shower again! I dont know how much money you saved me so just wanted to say thanks.
I’ve watched hundreds upon hundreds of videos on UA-cam including a few on how to ride a motorcycle which actually taught me the basics. This video by far has been the top 3 most helpful, thank you 👍🏼
Hi, I just replaced the spindle, diverter, and hot/cold seats by watching your video and it totally worked! No more tub dripping. Couldn't have done it without your video, so thanks! (Also, worth noting that Symmons sent me the parts for free - I just emailed them and told them the problem. They sent out the spindle, hot/cold seats, and that funky tool. I had to buy the diverter, but only cost about $5)
So nice for a change to have someone being directly to the point. You really ought to do more instructional videos without all that fluff. Excellent!
Thanks for the video - my shower didn't work at all and replacing the TA-10 cartridge did the trick. Works better than ever. The only glitch was that the fitting holding it in was really tight. I had to put all my strength into it and was afraid that I would break the pipe. But it finally budged and the rest of the repair was easy. Thanks!
Thanks for posting this. Spent $20 in parts and saved $150+ in plumber's fees. Supply shop was out of 4 in 1 tools so I used a large hex wrench and an easy out to remover the diverter valve. Worked great.
+gpvolk48 You're welcome, Glad we could help get you back up and running and some money. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment.
One of the best, to-the-point, how-to videos I've seen on UA-cam.
I have had a leak for a long time & finally found the leak coming from the diverter. This was a great detailed video. I purchased a complete new valve and took out the parts to rebuild. Thank you.
+Ron H Yea that is a common problem the o-ring on the diverter fails causing a leak sometimes small so it takes a while to notice it. Thanks and thank you for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment.
Thanks! Just fixed my diverter! It's been on shower mode for well over a year.
This is a great vid! Simple, clear, no horrible folksy filler. My son and I just used it to replace nearly all the parts in our shower. A few notes: we could not get the handle off, even using a puller tool, so we ended up using a recip saw to (carefully) cut off the end of the spindle. Just as the guy in the plumbing supply store said we would probably have to do! Having one of those cool 4-way tools would be helpful, but we did the job with the slab wrenches that came with the spindle, and used a lag screw to remove the shower diverter, no problem. We puzzled over the rotational orientation of the shower diverter, but it turns out it doesn't matter. And finally, use only Symmons parts! I bought a kit on eBay, turns out it was made in China, and although the spindle looked identical to the Symmons, the threads were wrong, and it would not screw on all the way. I even bought a new Symmons cap assembly, but the spindle would not mate to that either. When I bought a new Symmons spindle, the problem disappeared, and the rest of the job was quick. Thanks again for your vid!
You're welcome, Glad we could help get your shower back up and running again without to many problems. Yes, stick with OEM parts for the rebuild. Yea the older metal handles never come off easy. I think I have hand maybe a hand full pop off it it was because the screw was loose so there was movement while it was being used so it didn't get stuck on the spindle. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment.
Thank you for the video, I had the laptop in the bathroom and used it as reference during my attempt. One thing that may be helpful to mention is that the cold seat may not come out even with the use of the Raven tool or the Symmons tool(this appears to be a common online complaint). Due to the built-up corrosion on the cold seat's threads, the grooves on the cold seat will round off well before the cold seat opens loose. I ended up using a #8 pipe extractor to remove my cold seat.
GREAT video! Complete and concise.
Suggest an adjustable wrench rather than channel-locks. You can apply far more torque, and it doesn't scar the brass. The other suggestion (and I had to do this) was to cover the edges of the hole with aluminum foil and apply a torch to the valve. No way was it coming off without heat. With heat, took a few seconds.
Thank you this video helped me tons! took me 20 min to fix but probably only would have taken me 5 to 10 min if I had watched this before rather then half way into the job
Just a heads up, from another, more recent tutorial I watched: if you replace the spindle with a new one, you need to get a new retaining nut (the large piece of brass removed at 1:13) as well. The old nut won't fit the new spindle.
You forgot the part where you had to torch the thing to get it out ...thanks!! Never met an honest plumber yet; right up there with most auto mechanics
I watched your video on how to change a symmons temptrol shower tub spindle and diverter. Very good video.. When using the shower setting, there was water flow to the tub. Yesterday, I changed the diverter. It was difficult getting it out and the oring had deteriorated.. I cleaned the inside, applied plumbers grease to the inside, and greased the new one before inserting it. Since I couldn't insert the new diverter in far enough by pushing it, I used the 4 way tool with a few mallet taps. After completing the assembly, the water flow has decreased quite a bit but
Water flow decreased but still occurring. Any suggestions? Thanks for your video and any suggestions you may have.
Mine was dripping from beneath the handle. After watching this vedio, all I did was tighten the packing nut a litte and the dripping stopped. Thank you so much!!!
I also wish I could get you a beer...this video was a tremendous help and I didn’t have to call and waste time waiting for a plumber thanks to you.
You're welcome, Glad we could help. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment.
Terrific instructions. I need to replace the diverter spindle. It looks really easy. I just need to buy a 4-way tool. EDIT: Symmons told me to use an old toothbrush & white vinegar to clean any debris from the channel (the toothbrush/vinegar worked great), & not to use a wire brush.
Thank you for this! I was able to fix my shower leak myself because of this video.
Your welcome. Yes I have had a few stuck cold seats not to many for how many I have repaired... normally they come out with an easy out. I have had one that didn't and I ended up having to replace the valve. Glad it all worked out for you.
Great video, I had done a diverted replacement about 10 years ago and just needed a refresher. One trick is to use a food grade silicone grease to lubricate the o-ring and bore which makes the fix last much longer.
I wanna give you a big thank first and then I share my experience here for people. I live in a condo (1st floor). There was a big bathroom repair upper floor and apparently they cut down copper pipes all day long. They had to shut off water for entire lines (my unit and other units above me) because we share the main valve to shut the water off. After the construction was over, I used bath tub and I saw a lot of copper debris coming out of the faucet. And then the dripping started. I found out that copper debris were stacked inside the Symmons valve so the cartridge couldn't be fully closed. I changed the cartridge and also changed hot and cold seats anyway, as it was a good chance to change those probably after more than a decade. Note that recent Symmons shower diverter is (RTS 126 or something) different from the previous one (TA52 or something. There is TA52A and TA52B.). Unless hot/cold seats are really stuck, this is really an easy job. I don't have any dripping anymore and saved probably a couple of hundred bucks.
Excellent! Thanks for compacting the info into a quick video!
Thank you so much. Your video helped me replace my leaky facet yesterday. 💥
Thank you! I have two at work to replace! God bless 🙏🏾
Thomas Deeny If your talking about the chrome cover that covers the spindle. There are ones that thread onto the packing nut. So just turn the chrome cover and remove. Some have a small metal nut that holds it in place. Loosen and remove the nut and then remove the chrome cover.
Great video. Followed each step and it worked perfectly. Thank you.
Brilliant - many thanks! Just replaced the leaking diverter valve. Used a 5/16 lag bolt to get it out just like you said.
Awesome, Glad to hear you fixed your leaking diverter. You're welcome, Glad we could help. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment. Don't forget to give the video a thumbs up. Thanks
Thank you so much. You're the real Master. Wishing you the best wishes .. . .. :)
Hello,
You can't get the spindle out? or you can't get the cover off over the spindle? If you have the cover off you should be able to grab the spindle with a pair of channel lock pliers you might need a longer set and turn it counter clockwise. If that doesn't work maybe try a set of vise grips and place it at the 9 o'clock position and tap the vise grips with a hammer that might jar it loose. If you have a torch handy try heating it a bit that has worked for me also.
Good job. Thanks for the informative video. Back then, (2012) the typical hand tools could strip the seats that would result in ripping out the entire valve and replacing it. Check out the Zip Seat Extractor for the easiest way to rebuild your next Symmons valve!
You can just replace the diverter if your having problems with it not switching from tub to shower or if you get water coming out the tub spout. If its leaking water while shut off then you will need to replace the spindle. Its a good idea to change both while you have it apart.
What if there’s a slow drip from the spout only when the shower is on?
You need to have the valve almost all the way open/ turned on as the spindle will it the front of the spindle housing while loosening it. When your tightening it , the spindle also needs to be open as it will bottom out on the seats and stop turning making it so you can tighten the spindle housing back to the vavle.
Thank you for this video gave me the confidence to fix my leaky diverter valve successfully.
You're welcome, Glad we could give you the confidence to take on this repair. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment. Don't forget to give the video a thumbs up. Thanks
is not that easy when is old!!take my word!!!🙄🙄🙄😎👍🪐🪐
Excellent instructional video, thank you for taking the time to make this.
You're welcome, Glad we could help. Good luck with the repair.
can you link that 4 way tool at home depot? cant find it. Thanks.
No one used to carry it besides real supply houses/ plumbing stores. But it seems now they do -
www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plumber-s-Choice-Four-in-One-Wrench-Extractor-Tool-for-Symmons-Temptrol-TPCWST/305980233?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D26P-G-D26P-26_7_PLUMBING_REPAIR_And_REPLAC-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-General&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D26P-G-D26P-26_7_PLUMBING_REPAIR_And_REPLAC-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-General-71700000033850300-58700003919643946-92700031584469514&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3s_4BRDPARIsAJsyoLOZuhiDVImPgJY-MQxcIDu9MJLeUlYrAUXgmGPujaOlD5eS0veW5gcaAuUzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Amazon as well - amzn.to/2ZIFASo
You're welcome. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to give the video a thumbs up/ like if you haven't already. Thanks
Im finna try this bro love the video my bathroom shower been leakin a lot slightly and I’m not Sure what it could be but im thinking tightening the inner components can do the trick
Hello and thank you so much for responding. It is actually the cap gasket (part #T-11) that I can not remove. I got it to move about 1/2 inch and it will not budge any further. I'm afraid that I will either strip it or damage the plumbing in the wall.I was hoping there was something I could spray on it like brake cleaner or liquid wrench? I'm thinking I might have to get my hands on a torch.
Thanks DIYGUY, tightening the packing nut fixed the leak. I've liked and subscribed.
Hello, Is it the main handle? If it is remove the handle and tighten the packing nut.(0.47). If you end up breaking the handle off then you will have to replace the spindle as well. You can try and work it off with two flat screw drivers. If it is leaking out of the diverter handle then you will need to replace the diverter as it has an o-ring on the end of the diverter.
Yes I replaced the spindle.. You don't have to change the spindle if it tempers/ works properly and your problem is that the diverter is leaking or not working. I always do both as i figure i already have it open and hate to have it leak or stop temping shortly after.
Hello,shut offs to shower wide open? the spindle has a pressure balancing valve,it could be stuck letting more cold water in.Before you change the spindle check the little brass screw in the spindle housing.If you stop my video a 1:00 you can see it. that screw is used to control the temp. Screwed in it keeps the temp cooler screwed out it should get warmer in temp be careful not to go too far as it will get hot like your facets. Go a little bit and try it and repeat. let me know if it solved it
I only replaced the spindle and the valve but the leak is still there. Do you think I need to change anything else ? Please hope to hear back. Thank you.
@@ritari7447 What kind of leak? like the spout is dripping when its off? You may want to check or replace the brass seats that the spindle seals to. With some of the newer spindles you need to replace the seats as well as they don't seal for some reason or your seat may have a nic or corrosion causing it not to fully seal.
You can get the diverter (the white part in the video) out by using the raven tools 4-way wrench or a 5/16" X 3" long Lag bolt. twist it into the end of the diverter and then put it out. Be careful not to over tighten it and it will expand and hit the housing and will stop it from sliding out. If you are still having trouble feel free to check out my website by click the link in the description and the first large paragraph will give you a few tips on how to get it out. Hope this helps,Good Luck
Very helpful. I bought a new T-10 spindle, but it would not seat so I ended up needing the T-12A cap assembly. It all works great now!
This video is great - I keep getting a leak through the middle of the diverter when I replace it and test the water (similar to 4:35 above). I thought maybe the o-ring wasn't sitting against the valve but I got it pretty good with a wire brush. I even went to the store and got a another o-ring thinking I got a faulty one, but no dice. I've got pretty acidic water with lots of iron and am starting to think it could be corroded. Think it's time for a completely new valve, or any other ideas?
+Steve Kidd Thanks. umm.. I would say clean it with a wire brush like I did. The diverter should come with the o-ring already on it. Maybe try another diverter complete and see if it seals after that. I have had the housing get a hairline crack in it right in the diverter tube part of the shower valve causing one not to seal. Also check to see if the o-ring got ripped or damaged from when you pushed it in.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! That damned spindle is OUT - I threw it in a bucket of CLR to soak for a few days (my water is hard and the stuff builds up in the spindle so it won't work.....now I have a spare ;) ) my boiler is primed and I'm about to have my first shower in a good 6 months! So excited!
Sue Hunt Ok, so I replaced the spindle valve and I STILL don't have hot water. I wonder if the stop screw has some build up or something preventing hot water? Although I tried screwing it in & out and testing, but that only made the handle move more or less, but did nothing about the temperature.
+Sue Hunt Hello, Did you get the shower back in working order? Hopefully you installed a brand new spindle as this type of valve uses a balancing valve in the end of the spindle. ( If you turn the spindle end for end you should hear it slide back and fourth) Which means if you water is as hard as you say it could be holding the balancing part of the valve all the way to cold. Also you had to turn off the hot and cold supply to the shower valve it is very possible that the hot valve didn't open back up not allowing the hot water to reach the shower valve. The screw on the face cone of the shower valve is the anti-scald valve if you screw that outward it will allow the water to come out hotter.
I only have the MAIN water shutoff - no separate shutoff for the shower, so I had to turn ALL the water off. I'm told it could be either the flow control (that's broken) from my boiler or the domestic hot water coil, also in the boiler - both of those are beyond me. Yeah, the shower is still in working order, it just doesn't get HOT.
If you are taking about the cap/cover over the diverter (white part) its just an allen wrench. I don't remember the size off the top of my head.
In an old condo I just bought, have the Symmons Temptrol. Face plate almost unreadable, but noticed Temptrol '76 ... so really old. Tub spout is leaking. To check if it has the water turn off stoppers built in I tried to open take off the knob as shown in video, but it just won't come off. Could this be because water has not been turned off and it is creating pressure on the knob (unlikely) OR there is hard sediment built up over the years and the knob is stuck (more likely). Thoughts and suggestions welcome please.
(Great video BTW. Gives me, a newbie confidence.
The water was not turned off because it requires going through the HOA to turn it off for the building! Was trying to see if there is a stop mechanism in my really old valve, so I could operate independently of HOA requests, time constraints, and without engaging a plumber once I have an the right parts ... taking my time).
got ya. Can you turn the spindle? or did it break off even with the cap. If you can grab the spindle with a pair of needle nose or something and turn it so its a few turn away from closed it should make it easier.. or is it all corroded because it was leaking? I have had good luck with PB blaster or Kroil. A torch might be your best bet.
Yes, the main temperature, on/off handle. The main handle was easily removed by removing the single philips screw.
So, I will just tighten the packing nut for now to see if it fixes the leak before I start replacing any parts.
Thank you!
Thanks for making my life easier!
You're welcome, Glad we could help. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us a comment. Don't forget to give the video a thumbs up/ like. Thanks
Excellent video, you saved me from calling a professional. Where do you find that special 4 way tool? Secondly for other DIYers Symmons offers a life warranty on all parts. So I just called them and they sent out the diverter valve and diverter knob for free
Great Job! Best instructions yet!
Thanks for the kind words, watching and taking the time to leave us a comment. Don't forget to give the video a thumbs up/ like if you haven't already. Thanks
Yes the packing nut could be a bit to tight. It really has to be only tight enough to seal.
I followed the repair and it worked well. I do notice that the handle is a little hard to turn. Any idea why? Could the packing nut be too tight? Thanks
Question! Our shower caddy fell and cracked the knob of our temptrol shower plate - our shower is otherwise working fine, but the knob handle should be replaced. Do you think we would need to do this whole replacement? Or just shut off the water and put on a new knob using the first couple of steps?
10+ years later this still hold true. Parts readily available at Home Depot, including the tool kit. All in ~$130 in March 2023. All backwards compatible. Thanks for the how to @theDIYGuyDOTnet.
Does the housing gasket you installed come with the new spindle? I've seen a different brand spindle that shows a similar gasket that comes with their spindle but I prefer to stick with the same OEM brand. Please let me know when you can... thanks!
Good luck trying to get the seats out with the Raven tool. Check out the other videos using a nipple extractor. Even that needed a lot of force.
Excellent video! VERY helpful. Thanks for taking the time to post it.
OK thanks I ordered the part, should be here Friday, will let you know how I make out
What do you mean by leaking... leaking out the main or diverter handle? still dripping out of the spout or is it running out of the spout? Leaking out the diverter or leaking inside the wall?
Where do you find replacements for these shower valve kits with a tub diverter? They seem hard to find for a reasonable price. Thanks!
Don't know if anyone said it, but make sure the valve is all the way open, turn the handle past hot. It will make so you will be able to remove the spindle housing.
In case anybody wants to know: I snapped off the old spindle stem and managed to get it out of the old handle! It was REALLY in there-- what worked for me was threading a screw in and using a torch to heat the inside of the handle and then prying. Oops, forgot to lube up the new stem, I'll have to remove the handle and do that!
If you just need to chang the divertor valve do you need to shut off the water? My shut off valve seems to be stuck so I am just checking before I start this process
If you are just replacing the diverter and don't turn the handle at all you can replace it without turning the water off to the valve.
Is there any way to get that piece out on front of the diverter (2:13) without the 4 way tool? That tool is $25. An allen wrench perhaps?
Yes you can use an allen wrench off the top of my head I cant remember the size. Then to remove the diverter you can use a 5/16 3" long lag bolt since you wont have the 4 way tool.
I'm trying to get mine open to check if I have the screw valves (can't shut off the main water in my condo) but even channel locks aren't helping me remove the handle and part of me is really scared if I try too hard I might somehow break the cartridge.. Any advice?
Hi my shower valve leaks hot water constantly, I have the same exact shower valve but looking up a kit to rebuild it like you have done in this video brings up so many options im not sure which to chose. Could you please leave a link or parts number for me to look up? Great video btw! Thank you!
Thanks for the vid. My T-11 (1:10, after the packing nut) feels like it's welded on there. Any advice for loosening it?
You can replace the diverted without removing the valve right ?
Your welcome, Glad to help you out and to hear it all worked out. Thank you.
Do you have a video that details the steps on how to replace the "seats"? You mentioned you replaced them but I didn't see how you did it in the video
+Will Keeler I don't. Next time I take one apart I will do a detailed/ close up video on the seat replacement. You will need the seat removal tool. (link on our website) You will need to insert the removal tool turn turn it with a pair of pliers and remove the seats. You will want to remove the outside one first( bigger one) then the inside one (smaller one). When reinstalling them install the small one first then the larger one.
Do the seats come with the spindle ta-10h?
Thank you so much for this. I have a problem with my Symmons handle: the handle for turning the water on and off is very stiff, it's very hard for me to turn it; once I wrestle the water on, it is otherwise fine. Would doing the replacement in your video fix this very stiff shower handle problem?
Yes, Replacing the spindle will make the handle move easier.
I recently replaced my spindle and fixed my shower. I have a question though. The spindle that I removed looks to be in good shape and can still here the "check valve". Can these be cleaned and rebuilt to be reused again?
Glad to hear you got it fixed. If it fixed a dripping problem then the washer on the end could be replaced and you could reuse the spindle.
@@TheDIYGuyDOTnet the washer that goes in front of the screw or are you talking about the big o ring?
@@StudCity718 The washer behind the screw at the end of the spindle that's what seals on the seat.
Nevermind! Just required persistence. Thanks again for the vid, really helpful.
Did the replacement, thank you for this. Stopped a really annoying drip. I was hoping that it would help with the pressure but if anything it seems a little worse. There is also more water coming out of the tub when the shower is running. Any thoughts? Greatly appreciate it. SJ
Did you replace just the Spindle? or did you also replace the diverter? The diverter is what controls where the water goes. The white colored diverter is for the tub shower. The black colored one is for shower only and is a volume control.
TheDIYGuyDOTnet
I replaced everything. Both the spindle and the diverter were hard to get out and the diverter was hard hard to put back in. I have a shower/tub so I used the white diverter. I didn't have the wire brush but i used a toothbrush to clean the area. I am going to replace the shower head as well just in case that will help. I cleaned the screen in the head. I increased the water pressure in the house but that made no difference. Thanks for the quick response!
Ya sometimes they are hard to get out. A wire brush is best. Maybe an o-ring got damaged when you were reinstalling it. Your welcome.
READ THIS FIRST BEFORE INSTALLION!!. This guy is a hack and leaves out 2 important steps to install the new Symmons Spindle valve. 1st! He doesn't tell you that you have to have the Spindle itself all the way to left ( completely open ) or else u WILL NOT be able to screw the valve from pipe! 2ND! The New inner and outter Symmons couplings require a bigger tool that you have to purchase. The 4 way in this video will get the old outter and inner coupling yes BUT to install the new couplings you have to buy the new tool!......watching this hack job made a 15-30 min job a whole day affair for me as I had to figure out BOTH of these things on my own. Remember when removing the old valve make sure the Spindle is all the way turned to the left , 2nd make sure you buy the new tool for the new inner and outter couplings, it's a 3 piece set , hope I helped
Very helpful video. Thanks for posting, and your time and expertise.
You're welcome, Glad we could help. Thanks for watching and taking the time to drop us a comment.
You need to replace the diverter vavle. Make sure it is the white tub/ shower one and not the black one that is a volume control.
how did you get the tub/shower lever thing out?(the area you used the small brush)Mine will not come out and Im scared to apply pressure to it for fear it will snap off in the valve.
Hi, I have a question. My kitchen sink and bathro sink water is hot or should I say scalding hot. But when it comes to the shower, its lukewarm. What do you think might be the problem is. And I have the same shower
Thanks a bunch...you just saved me a bunch of money!
What if the spindle is too tight? I'm afraid to break everything and I've already applied as much pressure as I date.
I just a question regarding the handle ever few weeks I have take the cap of and retighten the screw because the handle will become loose. Do you have any recommendations? A low strength thread lock?
If the screw is backing out you could use a small amount of blue loctite.
Well I got the valve and put it in tonight, I get mostly hot water ?? and the valve has to be turned EXTREMELY hard in the off position to get the water to turn off. It came with a new washer. Having said that the old one that didnt work DID turn the water off. Any ideas. Thanks Deano
Sometimes the new cartridges don't seal or shut off without replacing the seats. Did the spindle/ cartridge move freely? Can hear a ball move around as you shake it. Both valves open fully?
My diverter do not move left and right , im trying to replace it , and is hard to put it back and do not goes left and right, there is any grease to help it?
Can you please please tell me where I can find that tool
If the shower is leaking do you need to install a new inner seat every time? Or can you get by with just a spindle rebuild?
+R Dixon if the shower is leaking/ dripping sometimes you can get away with just replacing the spindle. Other times the new spindle for some reason with not align with the old seats. So it will not properly shut off.
Thanks man big help today appreciated
Hi DIY Guy please allow me to ask a question please. My question is the diverter on this faucet is it adjustable. left or right for control of the temperture of the water? My shower is not as hot as the rest of the house faucets, I can't even enjoy a good hot shower any longer. please reply a.s.a.p. Most apreciated.
Hello, I am not sure I follow what your asking.. but the diverter is the white part I replaced in the video. The diverter in this tub/shower valve switches it between the tub and the shower function. If it were a shower only it would be black in color and would be a volume control. The brass part was the spindle.. that controls the hot and cold function. It sounds like you need to replace the spindle as the balancing/ tempering part of the valve is bad. There's a link to the parts/ tools need to do this if you click the link in the description.
is there another tool other than the 4 way tool to remove the cap before the spindle?
Hello,
I have the water shut off and everything pulled apart. I CAN NOT get the spindle loosened. I have tried everything. The original handle broke off and the area it grips on t) had stripped because it was leaking and we had to turn it really hard to shut off with vise grips. If I don't figure out how to get the spindle out and get the new one on there, I can't turn the water back on because the water just streams out of it now. We will have no bathroom. Any suggestions?
Did you replace the spindle or can you re use the existing one?
Great video, helped tremendously!! Thanks.
I plan to make this repair tomorrow, I got all the parts, but I couldn't find the "four-way" tool that you're using. What's the name for it?
+Ben S Hello, Not sure if you will find it but you might. Its made by raven tools. IF you can't find it if you click the link in the description it will take you to our website will it will give other items you can use instead.
When shower is selected with diverter handle, water still pours out of tub spicket. I assume just changing diverter valve will fix it.
Yes it should.
Would a 5/16 lag bolt be threaded correctly to extract the diverter?
+Eric Peterson Hello, yes a 5/16 lag bolt 3" long will do the trick.