BAD table saw advice from unexpected source! BEWARE!
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
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▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼
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- 2 Featherboards AND a riser kit (for taller support): amzn.to/3RBwwtB
*(BOW is a small, 2-man business and a supporter of our channel. They are worth supporting!)*
*My Table Saw and Bandsaw are AWSOME! Check them out at Harvey Woodworking Machinery:* www.harveywoodworking.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
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-Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl
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Hey man, I have a question and I can't find anyone/anywhere that has been able to break it down so I can understand. I'm trying to cut triangles! I need them for a "geometric" planter I'm making. I'm having trouble making repetitive accurate cuts so they're all the same length. Can you help me, please?!! NOBODY has a video or anything explaining how to measure them out accurately! I'm using a table saw btw
@@anthonypage3428 I'd make a jig. Maybe a sled with a fence to hold the workpiece at the right angle, and a runner so it slides at a set distance from the blade so each cut comes out the same. You may need a second jig for the second angled side.
@StumpyNubs thank you!
It was a good feeling just seeing the featherboard next to the saw blade and thinking, "that looks like it'll force back against the blade, then kick" and hearing you confirm my thoughts a few moments later. Your safety and warning videos have become my favorite of your channel.
Yes.
Also, @felisconcolor1112, do you sometimes go by "Mountain Lion"? Or maybe your friends just call you "Panther". I smiled when I saw that, having researched 𝘍. 𝘤𝘰𝘯𝘤𝘰𝘭𝘰𝘳 for a while. :)
Even if it didn't kick, gonna leave a heavily burnished marring all the way down the cut. Just bad news all round.
I have a set of BOW feather boards and I have used them on the table saw (in the safe way) and on the router table with great success. Thanks for looking out for people.
Stumpy you are just too awesome and classy. You have become my favorite woodworking channel. You and that guy nobody elses knows, that Moses guy.
Thank you for continuing to think of us all! We appreciate all you do for us!
I have several feather boards but what I use the most is my JessEm stock guides. They are amazing! They cost a small fortune and I held back for a couple of years before I could bring myself to spend that kind of cash on something seemingly simple but now I’m so happy I finally did. Not only do they help prevent kickback but I also get more accurate cuts especially with larger plywood pieces because they don’t drift away from the fence at all.
I have the same guides and to me they are priceless!
I was looking for this comment as I figured someone would mention them. I use them on almost every cut as long as the material is wide enough. They almost cost as much as the saw I use, but worth every penny.
Just from the thumbnail ALONE is already enough to give me clues of what is the mistake. Nice one James
I have the same feather board you are using there, and I just love it. Years ago, I worked in a machine shop, many of the machine tools were rated in tens or higher of horsepower. So for me, the question, how many horsepower do your arms have? Feather board or not you’re going to lose the contest against that spinning blade. I gave an operator first aid after a drill press threw a 35 pound drill fixture into their chest. It doesn’t take a lot of horsepower.
My only Kickback accident happened earlier this year and it was something I have not seen covered before so you may want to think about it for a future episode on safety. I was milling up some eight-quarter walnut lumber and on the final step, trimming off the fourth edge prior to glue-up. On this piece, the remaining edge was concave and the cut should have left ~3 mm at the center of the off-cut. I had a riving knife and was not standing behind the blade. I still don't quite know what happened but near the end of the cut, the off-cut broke at the middle and both pieces hit me in the gut almost simultaneously. Somehow the back section flipped do I got hit with both blunt ends. If it hit me two inches higher I am sure it would have broken some ribs. As it was, I never had such a dark purple bruise. Lesson here is to always be extra cautious when the off-cut will be very narrow in the middle.
Huh, interesting.. Presumably, it had aberrant or vertical grain at the thin point? If not, that's a really weird one. I always used highly figured wood & ensuring there was enough bulk left was important for exactly this reason. I always made thinner cuts on the bandsaw.
I treat every cut as though it could cause kickback, sort of the same principle as "every gun is always loaded." That is why I never stand in line with my work. Saved me an injury once. A hole in the sheetrock (the piece stuck in there like a spear) is much easier to repair. Can't be too safe. Sorry to hear that you got hurt.
Thanks for his great tip and tough story. I’d love to see Stumpy make a video on this.
Wouldn't a zero clearance insert stop this? I have seen several videos showing how they help protect against thin strips getting in the way. I don't fully understand what you did. However I almost always use a zero clearance insert.
@@davidhorizon8401 I'm not sure since I don't really know what happened. This was an 8 ft board and the cut off would be about 5/8 inch at the ends. It also didn't shoot straight back since I was to the right of the blade. I was just glad the sharp end didn't hit me. How it flipped I'll never know.
Thanks for pointing this out Same thing goes for thin rip jigs (I’ve seen the same error, possibly from the source you’re referring to).
Feather boards are great but using one a dew years ago it slipped and I got a nasty kickback. This wasn't my first kickback. The first one put a 1x1 right through my garage door. The second was not as bad but could have killed me also hit me right in the mid-side section of my stomach but luckily hit a small tool pouch that took the hit. That's when I bought a leather apron. From that day on I started wearing a pigskin welders apron and that's where the third one hit me. That pigskin may have save my life, and left a nasty bruise but I always wear it the shop now and believe me it's come in handy many times over the years.
Many times... implies you're doing something wrong
@@cuebj Or that he works with the table saw a lot. Like, I have never been hit by kickback, but that's not necessarily because I work more safely, but because I work less often.
It's even worse than that....
As the fingerboard begins to prevent the workpiece moving backwards, it presses harder...
Things are going to go very very wrong.
Good advice. Thank you James.
Fabulous safety and usage information.
More good info, James! Thumbs up for safety!
Great advice!!
Wow I consider myself a beginner wood worker and thanks for this advice, I’ve had kick back before and was cut so I’m open for advice on any safety things, thanks again
Thank you, sir!!! Well done!!! 👍
another excellent video
Very timely! I’m a longtime table saw user and just last week I got a bow flex feather board and had it positioned incorrectly and it closed the kerf to the point of bogging the saw down before I could disengage from the cut. Many thanks for sharing, James, I think others may think that having the feather board further up to keep the material against,the fence would be the correct position; wrong!
Experience is something you get right after, you really needed it!!
Agreed those are the absolute best I’ve ever used. Easy set up and they just work
Totally not sponsored! I've never and will never put a video up on youtube (and most likely any other site)... This Bow feather board is a 100% must have. One time I was cutting rabbets and lost focus for an instant (without a featherboard) and it nearly cost me a major injury. Since then I have not and will not go without using a feather when it's warranted. Is it inconvenient to think about feather boards and safety? Well, yes but so is having fewer digits-my vote is keeping all the digits and being inconvenienced in a minuscule way. James, thanks for the education! Very much appreciated! You keep doing what you do so well! THANK YOU!
Yeow! I don’t do a lot of woodworking, but the setup you showed just SCREAMED “don’t do this” when I saw it. I’m genuinely surprised that it was pictured in a magazine where experienced folks are doing the demos!
I think that one boils down to commonsense thanks for sharing. Always enjoy your feedback.
THANK you as always for giving amazing advice.
I do not even OWN a table saw and probably never will.
Knowledge is power and I appreciate the ***POWER-UP***
Cheers.
Just used my FeatherPro for the first time yesterday cutting a bunch of rabbets for picture frames. Night and day difference in control! Thank you for the recommendation!
Just ordered the featherboards you recommended. Been using home made ones for years, but these make a lot more sense. Thank you.
I have tools that I have yet to fire up and use, setting up my workshop has taken a bit longer (years) than I thought it would. There is a 12 inch blade, 3 HP table saw that will rip a 4 inch thick board according to the manual. I know that is enough power to kill or main in a nanosecond. I’ll be looking at those feather boards, the stacked arrangement looked genius!
Solid advice and correction for that hazardous condition.
Just received my Bow featherboards and they are very high quality!!!!
Thanks Stumpy!!!!!
I’m so glad that you turned me onto the bow feather boards and push stick The only ones I use.
Thanks Stumpy. I've been a victim of kickback and I assure everyone it is no fun in the least. 😊😊😊
I bought the BOW FB1 feather boards after seeing this video and I love them! Thanks for the effort.
Great advice and demonstration James. Thanks for taking time to show this. Stay safe and keep up the good videos. Fred.
Very important. Thanks!
Thanks for doing these safety videos, I've seen dozens of WW videos and said to myself, "WTF?!"
Great safety advice, as always. Keep ‘em coming!
Thanks for the advice Stumpy.
Great short video safety presentation! Just a guy in a garage with a wood shop. I love your content!
Thanks a lot for all the tips, James!!! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Very good presentation and very true - excellent warning. I would not think anybody would put it next to the blade! One additional comment, to date that is the best anti-kick back device I have ever found for a table saw!
I didn’t take kickback seriously until one time a few years ago a piece went flying like a bullet behind me! Boy did that scare me on many levels. I did buy the BOW after seeing your video and I have to say its the best I’ve I’ve used so far. Thanks for the short safety reminder, and as usual great video.
Thank you so much for this video! That actually did happen to me it was neither pretty nor a fun experience. The board it me just below the chest plate. The bruise lasted about a month. I have a contractor saw, Jet, to be specific. After that experience I checked the alignment, it was off. Unfortunately the bolts were both too tight and only two were even accessible. I have neither the strength, at this point, or leverage to fix it without taking the entire table apart, after flipping it over. Yes, I did with your vid on alignment. Again, thank you for these terrific videos!
I’ve used a featherboard on a table saw behind the blade for non through cuts. I think that’s okay just like the router table. But I’d love to hear it from other people who know more than me.
Bought the Bow feather boards on your recommendation and couldn’t be happier. 🙏👍
I have one of those but I never seen that setup advise but I would have known better. Great advise and thanks for helping folks keep all their fingers! I have used on tabe saw next to blade while slotting.
WOW ... I've been doing it wrong, and been LUCKY! I never stopped to consider what was happening to the kerf.
Good video. I've often explained how saws are different from routers in terms of energy, forces, dynamics of various types, and require almost opposite approaches to best use
I always liked to fit a vertical featherboard behind the blade to provide extra support for long boards that might otherwise want to rotate or tilt towards the end of the cut, but as stated that's safe. Ideally, the riving knife (when there is one) should prevent any pinching from lateral pressure behind the blade too, & I think there may be a case for using a featherboard behind the riving knife if cutting gnarly wood that may potentially pinch the blade regardless (since it'll make the offcut bow outwards as it passes the blade), but putting it right there centred on the blade is certainly a bad idea.
Excellent advice SN! 👍👍🔨🔨
Another excellent job, Stumpy!! Thanks!
Once again, really useful advice. Thank you, Jim.
Excellent advice - so important!
What I like more about the BOW feather boards is the ease of use as even the best feather board is useless if not used. The are put in place quickly and remove as quickly as well. I use a magnetic feather board for my table saw for down pressure but it is not nearly as quick and easy to use.
I have had a kick back because of this very reason. The feather board was only in front of the blade by a 1/4” but it was enough to stick three pieces of walnut in to my wrist and arm. The outcome was not pretty. It was a whole mess of doctors and stuff. Great advice. Love the safety videos.
I bought Bow feather boards because they were "EcoMouse Green" but ended up being the best I've ever used, period.
I finally splurged and got that featherboard set in january and I am convinced it is the best on the market. The versatility for flipping directions, or going from single to stacked, is great, and the tightening system in the miter slot is way easier than basic brands I've tried. And it has T bolts so you can use it on any slot you may have.
Good video, and good catch, James. No one thing (featherboard, riving knife) can prevent a kickback, I've learned. What a lot of people making content tend to forget is that a kickback has two components of motion - one parallel to the saw bed, and the other at some angle perpendicular to the saw bed, because the blade spins in a circle... there's always "lift" on the kicked board. That said, whoever generated that featherboard advice that you corrected was an idiot.
Thanks for the great videos!
Absolutely agreed on that featherboard brand. Love mine. Won't use anything else these days.
As always great advice James thanks for sharing
Love these safety vids. Nicely done SN.
I was bit hard by a kickback using an industrial strength saw. It was my fault but the speed and violence of it hasn’t left me for 30 years. All I did was let up on the pressure pushing the work through just enough to give that blade the perfect pitch to hit it out of the park. It happened so fast and hit me so hard, right in the abdomen, I believe I experienced some amount of shock. Didn’t feel a thing for a minute or two, then laid on the floor and just checked myself gently. The fear was palpable. I wondered if I was going to the hospital. I was all alone at the time so I just took a long break on the floor til the shakes stopped. To this day, I tend to use my circular saw on a worktable for long cuts. It just takes some time to set up.
can confirm about the Bow featherboards. really smart design, and even if by some miracle you damage the teeth, they're replaceable without having to buy a whole new unit. definitely makes me much more confident using the saw.
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One safety measure I often use is a block clamped to the fence after the blade that the stock moves under as you push it past the blade. That keeps the stock from popping up and flipping back at you if something goes pear shaped and the stock tries to kick back while pivoting on the end you are holding down. I had the fence get pushed out of parallel toward the back of the blade. The stock was pinched between the back of the blade and the fence. Checking the fence for parallel helps a lot, but occasionally in a shop, something heavy will bump something else.
Thanks.
An old pattern maker that I worked with told me about the time a film crew came to the shop he was working at to film a safety video. They had him operate the table saw. He made sure all of the guards were in place, wore ear and eye protection and when they were done filming they told him “perfect, great job!” Nobody even noticed that he was standing directly behind the stock he was running through the saw.
For sure.
If you're using only 1 featherbøard on a röuter table, right in front of the bit, it can still cause a kickback when the end of the workpiece gets pushed into the groove between the fence and the bit.
I saw that video as well and couldn't understand at the time why they would use that setup. I had been taught since Jr HS (and that was a Long Time ago) to use it the way you show. 😲
Hey Stumpy. Love your work 👍
I love my bow feather pros, even if you don't care about safety, the cut quality improvement can't be denied. They keep your boards straight and flat through the entirety of the cut which keeps the cuts even and reduces burning.
Tks men, saludos al algoritmo, nive video
Great video, always appreciate your safety videos. This one seems obvious, but maybe not to newer woodworkers so great that you posted it. One thing... Are there any router table cuts and featherboard placements /uses that are unsafe?
My 1 cent. Did they print a retraction?
1. Sharp blade
2.let it cut, dont force
3. Even pressure on fence before the blade and on your push block as you pass, all the through the cut
4. Fear the blade. I always stop and 2 second pause before starting a cut. Never get lazy with a power tool.
5. Dont work when tired.
6. Stand to the side just in case
I have never had a kickback event and have run quite a but of stock through my saw over the last 30 years. Get cocky, lose a digit...or worse.
The main thing you need to know when it comes to kick back is the direction the work piece/hand held power tool is going to go if it all goes wrong. A good work practice is not placing yourself directly behind the feed path, if possible of course. It all depends on the stock you're machining.
Man, I can’t believe that anyone suggested sticking a feather board at the blade. That’s insane.
I think you can put the feather board behind the blade, as long as it’s well behind. That way, the pressure against the wastewood will cause it to fulcrum on the riving knife and actually *open* the kerf around the blade for *reduced* risk of kickback. This is a hypothesis, I’d love to see it tested.
Good video. Noble not to mention the magazine. But you should mail the magazine this video!
That is so basic and common sense that I can't believe that any, slightly reputable, source would ever recommend putting pressure against the blade. Sheeeeesh!!!
I was going to say you can make a featherboard on your table saw. The foam is nice but plastic isn't my thing. I can't stand to look at it which is why i work with wood in the first place.
Great video. I go a step further by using a power feeder for the shaper table. Wait, what. What are those. :)
Another reason to make sure the featherboard is behind the blade is to prevent the tines from rebounding into the blade as the wood clears. Learned this the hard way in high school shop class. Resawing thin strips off some thicker stock, I set too much tension on the fingers of the featherboard, and the whole thing blew up in my face as I pushed the board through and the fingers caught the blade. Thankfully I was fine, the shop teacher though, had to get a new pair of pants.
When we are talking about negative things, like an kickback, then is a risc. Chances are always positive, and can not be use when talking about something negative.
Exemple: at a casino, you only risk to lose all your money. There is a very little chance for you to win.
Otherwise a very good and informative video
👍😎
What?
Not never, just never for through cuts. I actually prefer it beside the front half of the blade for dado cuts.
I learned this from Norm Abram many years ago..
Some people do no understand the speed and power in a kickback or that a "kickback" can be a wood explosion in all directions. When it bends the spring steel blade your flesh is just an inconvenience on its projected course.
3:45 I bought two poly cutting boards which I intend on turning into feather boards. I just need to create a jig to make them..
@StumpyNubs Wow. I’m truly a beginner and i was shocked on that tip. As a beginner I would never place that feather board there. 😳
Hey Stumpy, isn’t there one exception to your ‘never place a featherboard at or behind the blade’ rule, and that is when you are cutting dadoes, right?
Could we get a little bit of guidance on cutting a miter with a bevel? If you use an angled cut for furniture legs for example how do you calculate the bevel for pieces at the top? Thanks.
I caught a 4x4 in the groin once. Won't ever make that mistake again.
I have never used a featherboard. Really need to. But it just seemed like comon sense that if you place a feather board next to your table saw blade you going to hace a bad time.
Could you provide your advice on setting up cuts on a worksite portable table saw for woodworking projects? Some of us can't afford a contractor table saw or larger or even a dedicated shop. I value your lessons, but sometimes, I can't follow your advice because all I have is a dewalt portable table saw.
Everything in this video applies to small saws and large.
Big giant, Mohawk
Unrelated to the featherboard, I noticed the sawstop fence. I also know you.have a harvey. This made me wonder. Do you have videos (hadn't seen any) of fence jigs that work with this odd shaped fence of harvey or could do some? I just got the 3hp harvey saw and all my old jigs are now useless unless I contour them to the fence guide odd shape.
I was watching a video the other say with someone making a bridle joint on the table saw. I was wondering if instead of a jig would a stacked featherboard Applying pressure above the blade (solid wood into fence) would be safe.
Power feeders are safer than feather boards especially on a router table. Your fingers never get close to the bit and properly adjusted kick back is almost eliminated.
I wonder if the article was written by someone that hadn't seen the photos and the photographer just had an assignment sheet but no actual experience.