Makeup brushes from the Dollar Store are great for getting out dust. Also, if you think that machine is fancy you should check out the 158.19142 considered by many to be the Holy Grail of Kenmore sewing machines!
Thanks for your Kenmore series. You have helped me resolve a couple of issues with my recently purchased model 1570. I got it for $5 at a mission store and didn't expect much so I'm just having fun learning about Kenmores. They are work horses for sure. I'll follow along and haven't given up on getting my machine back to full working order. Your "head light" helps. I think I have resolved the thread tension issue....well mostly. A couple of the special stitch features don't work properly but I don't expect I'll need them . (I don't know much about sewing anyway) The dial with the "red zone "or the "black zone" selection doesn't change anything like the stitch selection dial offers. I mention it in case you have an opportunity to address how it works. Thanks for doing these videos.
Most of the stitches that were used on these models were under the "Red" side or under the red markings. The other side was for "Stretch Stitches" and this might be why they are hard to get working. Vintage sewing machines are very forgiving in many ways but they do NOT like sitting for long periods and can be fussy when 'woken up' as I like to say. The vast majority of my labor in restoring these machines is in coaxing them back to performing like new after they have sat dormant for long periods; sometimes many decades!!!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Right you are. I didn't even know what a "stretch stitch" was until watching you work on these. Sure enough, my machine was permanently in the stretch, black, mode and did not respond to the red area setting. It turned out to be a loose set screw on the shaft at the opposite end from the red/black dial which rotated a cam. Easy fix once I found it with your help. U da Man! My Kenmore 148.1570 is now 100% Yesterday, I was given a Necchi BF Nova from what I think is the early 50s.I've watched your videos on the unit and expect to have some fun getting it sewing again. Thanks to people like you, this vintage hobby collecting is doable.
What is the full model number? There were three 1931 machines. I am putting this one on my unicorn list. Thanks for the informative video! Not all 1931s have a 1.2 amp motor.
I was recently able to find a 1931! The one I bought is a 19311 and it has the front release on the table conversion. I’ve been cleaning bit by bit. The cam structure on mine was terribly gummed up. I was able to get it more movable, but still have work to do. Anyway, I also wanted to expand the machine’s abilities further, so was on the hunt for the accessories that would enable a chainstitch. The hardest part to find was the special elongated hook found in the 1913 and several other machines. That hook coupled with the special JM propeller and black needle plate insert converts the machine to one that can chainstitch! So now my 1931 has even more features! Thank you for sharing so much info with us!
Sorry to hear that but take heart in knowing these machines do show up on occasion given how popular the Kenmore brand was in sewing machines. You will come across another at some point, I'm sure!
I have a 158.17560 with a cabinet have all the. Cams and and accessories nearly mint it took awhile to balance the stitch and tension especially with using the cams it doesn't look like it was used much I love this very strong beautiful machine
I bought my 1931 a year ago for $40 and absolutely love it! All it needed was the spool pins. I sew heavy fabrics on it every day, and wouldn't trade it for anything! I'm looking forward to more videos on this incredible machine.
Do you have a checklist you go through when restoring the function of vintage sewing machines? It would be great to have a checklist for my clipboard! 😊
Hi Sarah. While I've mentioned the general areas of a machine that you can approach and do so one area at a time, I've never done a video on a checklist. This is a great idea so thank you. I will need to keep this in mind for future videos!!
I actually have not. They are very similar to the US made Singers with some differences. The only negatives I can think of are that parts for them can be tougher to find given how few there are in N. America. The hand wheels are some kind of polymer/plastic so I would be extra careful with them. One great thing about the Free Arm versions is that they are the only free arm slantomatics ever made. Singer was slow to introduce Free Arm models in the US. If you do get a chance to own one, they can be worth a lot.
Everything you’ve said I’ve found to be exactly right, the ones I’ve found on line have been pretty high priced. Maybe I’ll stumble across one someday. Thanks for the information. Enjoy your videos.
Congrats on your Riccar. Yes, it was made in Japan and should be of all metal construction. Great that you rescued it. With care, it should last a LONG time!
The way the new take off the top is different plus thing that looks like an explanation mark on the other side instead of the red dots that would generally be on the same or on the other side where the stretch stitches would generally be. Just that the part where you just said tell what's different about the sewing machine
Yes!! This model not only has the built in cams for the utility stitches, it also allowed for decorative stitch cams. Sears once sold a bewildering number of models and would devote vast space in their stores for sewing products.
I just came into a novum Janome sewing machine (circa 1960s). Sews beautifully and smoothly, except for a whirring sound by the motor as it turns the belt. Saw your video on how to oil a motor, but my model doesn’t have the little holes. Any ideas on what might be causing the sound?
Thanks for posting! I’ve got two of these machines. Also, one 1941. They are great. Do you know when the 157.1680 and 157.1780 were made? Or anything about them. Plsstic gears?
My 158.16410 needs a camstack gear. It has been at the sewing machine repair shop for three months now waiting for the part to be found. I’ve check online in different websites for the part or a machine with compatible camstack gear. Any suggestions? I love this sewing machine the way a man loves a car!
I have not worked on either model although I do know the 1680 version has the adjustment knob on top of the machine that can break as it uses plastic gears/notches to make its adjustments; not just the top of the knob is plastic which would be ok. For the 1780, I don't know for sure but both of these models were either the last of those made in Japan or some of the early ones that were made in Taiwan. This is the "Hybrid" transition period I mention in some videos I've made discussing late 1970s and early 1980s machines. They look like all metal machines and can be great sewers given how much metal they have. However, they do start to introduce plastics on some of the mechanical stress areas which is why I do not seek them out. However, if you already have one or can get one in operable condition for very little, there is certainly not a thing wrong in having one. Here are some links to videos I've made on machines very similar to the models you are asking about. They might be helpful for seeing what I mean by the term "Hybrid": ua-cam.com/video/DTmlX8zrmlU/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/lzapwRSGHwM/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/ngn-TEfKJew/v-deo.html
Nice video. However, I own a 158-19412, and just recently overhauled a 158-19411 for a friend. Same model, just different production runs. The -2 version releases the deck like the 158-1931 your video shows. On the top at the rear of the deck. The -1 releases in the front. Otherwise identical. Both have a 1 Amp motor, more than enough power.
in your opinion, which is best, the 158.1941 or ( if not need a high shank) 158.1516 which has the cams and external motor....Im kinda leaning towards a 158.1516 with the external motor, for ease of replacement and alternative motors, What do you think?
There are many priorities for how and why folks choose one machine over the other. The quality of each of these models is the same. And yes, the 1516 does have simpler access to the motor/belt. However, motors and belts do not require frequent servicing and can go years before needing it. I would suggest that you assess what your needs are for stitches. If you only envision needing basic straight and ZigZag capability, then the 1516 would work just fine. But if I were to need utility stitches such as those the 1941 offeres (Blind stitch for example) then I would not hesitate to go with the 1941. Also, if you work on cuffs at all, the free arm of the 1941 will make your life a bit easier. Both are great choices. Let your needs for sewing determine your choice, not where the motor/belt is located.
Makeup brushes from the Dollar Store are great for getting out dust. Also, if you think that machine is fancy you should check out the 158.19142 considered by many to be the Holy Grail of Kenmore sewing machines!
Thanks you for the video!
Question anyone: anyone know of a list of all the 158 series and the features of each?
Thanks for your Kenmore series. You have helped me resolve a couple of issues with my recently purchased model 1570. I got it for $5 at a mission store and didn't expect much so I'm just having fun learning about Kenmores. They are work horses for sure. I'll follow along and haven't given up on getting my machine back to full working order. Your "head light" helps. I think I have resolved the thread tension issue....well mostly. A couple of the special stitch features don't work properly but I don't expect I'll need them . (I don't know much about sewing anyway) The dial with the "red zone "or the "black zone" selection doesn't change anything like the stitch selection dial offers. I mention it in case you have an opportunity to address how it works. Thanks for doing these videos.
Most of the stitches that were used on these models were under the "Red" side or under the red markings. The other side was for "Stretch Stitches" and this might be why they are hard to get working. Vintage sewing machines are very forgiving in many ways but they do NOT like sitting for long periods and can be fussy when 'woken up' as I like to say. The vast majority of my labor in restoring these machines is in coaxing them back to performing like new after they have sat dormant for long periods; sometimes many decades!!!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Right you are. I didn't even know what a "stretch stitch" was until watching you work on these. Sure enough, my machine was permanently in the stretch, black, mode and did not respond to the red area setting. It turned out to be a loose set screw on the shaft at the opposite end from the red/black dial which rotated a cam. Easy fix once I found it with your help. U da Man! My Kenmore 148.1570 is now 100%
Yesterday, I was given a Necchi BF Nova from what I think is the early 50s.I've watched your videos on the unit and expect to have some fun getting it sewing again. Thanks to people like you, this vintage hobby collecting is doable.
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
You are so welcome
What is the full model number? There were three 1931 machines. I am putting this one on my unicorn list. Thanks for the informative video! Not all 1931s have a 1.2 amp motor.
I was recently able to find a 1931! The one I bought is a 19311 and it has the front release on the table conversion. I’ve been cleaning bit by bit. The cam structure on mine was terribly gummed up. I was able to get it more movable, but still have work to do. Anyway, I also wanted to expand the machine’s abilities further, so was on the hunt for the accessories that would enable a chainstitch. The hardest part to find was the special elongated hook found in the 1913 and several other machines. That hook coupled with the special JM propeller and black needle plate insert converts the machine to one that can chainstitch! So now my 1931 has even more features! Thank you for sharing so much info with us!
Congrats on your finding a 1931 version Becky. It has to be THE MOST expensive sewing machine in the store when introduced!!!
Always a good video with these older, metal machines. Simple, yet elegant.
One of those sold near me last week listed for $50. I was too late.
Sorry to hear that but take heart in knowing these machines do show up on occasion given how popular the Kenmore brand was in sewing machines. You will come across another at some point, I'm sure!
I have a 158.17560 with a cabinet have all the. Cams and and accessories nearly mint it took awhile to balance the stitch and tension especially with using the cams it doesn't look like it was used much I love this very strong beautiful machine
Very nice!
I also have a 158.1756. I don't hear many people talk about them
I bought my 1931 a year ago for $40 and absolutely love it! All it needed was the spool pins. I sew heavy fabrics on it every day, and wouldn't trade it for anything!
I'm looking forward to more videos on this incredible machine.
That is awesome!
i like to rub a pipe cleaner on some plastic and get it staticky and then stick it in there. it gets stuff the vacuum misses sometimes.
Do you have a checklist you go through when restoring the function of vintage sewing machines?
It would be great to have a checklist for my clipboard! 😊
Hi Sarah. While I've mentioned the general areas of a machine that you can approach and do so one area at a time, I've never done a video on a checklist. This is a great idea so thank you. I will need to keep this in mind for future videos!!
Have you ever had a singer 431g or 631g come through your garage? I would really like to hear your opinion on those models.
I actually have not. They are very similar to the US made Singers with some differences. The only negatives I can think of are that parts for them can be tougher to find given how few there are in N. America. The hand wheels are some kind of polymer/plastic so I would be extra careful with them. One great thing about the Free Arm versions is that they are the only free arm slantomatics ever made. Singer was slow to introduce Free Arm models in the US. If you do get a chance to own one, they can be worth a lot.
Everything you’ve said I’ve found to be exactly right, the ones I’ve found on line have been pretty high priced. Maybe I’ll stumble across one someday. Thanks for the information. Enjoy your videos.
Hi, I just bought a 158.1431and am trying to source a service/repair manual for it. Do you have a source for such a manual. Thank you.
No but I sure wish I did.
I picked up a Riccar RZ-208B that was going to the scrap yard, is this a decent machine?
Congrats on your Riccar. Yes, it was made in Japan and should be of all metal construction. Great that you rescued it. With care, it should last a LONG time!
What color cams does this machine use?
Mint Green, Grass Green, and Orange.
And it seems like just the cam gears easily accessible.
The way the new take off the top is different plus thing that looks like an explanation mark on the other side instead of the red dots that would generally be on the same or on the other side where the stretch stitches would generally be. Just that the part where you just said tell what's different about the sewing machine
Cam capable?
See the little door on the top? Yes it is. It takes C style cams.
Yes!! This model not only has the built in cams for the utility stitches, it also allowed for decorative stitch cams. Sears once sold a bewildering number of models and would devote vast space in their stores for sewing products.
Did I miss the third difference? Table release and cam for decorative stiches. Third?
There were whole floors of machines patterns and fabrics too.
Thank you thank I have this beautiful machine in its walnut cabinet. Your help is wonderful
I just came into a novum Janome sewing machine (circa 1960s). Sews beautifully and smoothly, except for a whirring sound by the motor as it turns the belt. Saw your video on how to oil a motor, but my model doesn’t have the little holes. Any ideas on what might be causing the sound?
Thanks for posting! I’ve got two of these machines. Also, one 1941. They are great.
Do you know when the 157.1680 and 157.1780 were made? Or anything about them. Plsstic gears?
My 158.16410 needs a camstack gear. It has been at the sewing machine repair shop for three months now waiting for the part to be found. I’ve check online in different websites for the part or a machine with compatible camstack gear. Any suggestions? I love this sewing machine the way a man loves a car!
I have not worked on either model although I do know the 1680 version has the adjustment knob on top of the machine that can break as it uses plastic gears/notches to make its adjustments; not just the top of the knob is plastic which would be ok. For the 1780, I don't know for sure but both of these models were either the last of those made in Japan or some of the early ones that were made in Taiwan. This is the "Hybrid" transition period I mention in some videos I've made discussing late 1970s and early 1980s machines. They look like all metal machines and can be great sewers given how much metal they have. However, they do start to introduce plastics on some of the mechanical stress areas which is why I do not seek them out. However, if you already have one or can get one in operable condition for very little, there is certainly not a thing wrong in having one. Here are some links to videos I've made on machines very similar to the models you are asking about. They might be helpful for seeing what I mean by the term "Hybrid":
ua-cam.com/video/DTmlX8zrmlU/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/lzapwRSGHwM/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/ngn-TEfKJew/v-deo.html
Nice video. However, I own a 158-19412, and just recently overhauled a 158-19411 for a friend. Same model, just different production runs. The -2 version releases the deck like the 158-1931 your video shows. On the top at the rear of the deck. The -1 releases in the front. Otherwise identical. Both have a 1 Amp motor, more than enough power.
Thanks for the info Ronald!
This looks a lot alike .my 185.17850 that i am trying to get replacement feed dog
in your opinion, which is best, the 158.1941 or ( if not need a high shank) 158.1516 which has the cams and external motor....Im kinda leaning towards a 158.1516 with the external motor, for ease of replacement and alternative motors, What do you think?
There are many priorities for how and why folks choose one machine over the other. The quality of each of these models is the same. And yes, the 1516 does have simpler access to the motor/belt. However, motors and belts do not require frequent servicing and can go years before needing it. I would suggest that you assess what your needs are for stitches. If you only envision needing basic straight and ZigZag capability, then the 1516 would work just fine. But if I were to need utility stitches such as those the 1941 offeres (Blind stitch for example) then I would not hesitate to go with the 1941. Also, if you work on cuffs at all, the free arm of the 1941 will make your life a bit easier. Both are great choices. Let your needs for sewing determine your choice, not where the motor/belt is located.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage thank you, that makes a lot of sense
158.1931?
Yes!! Very good eye you have for Kenmore models.
Looks like a 1931 with plastic cams that go in the top? 7:20