I’m enjoying all the lessons for the vintage machines. I’ve rescued a couple of machines lately so I have a ton to learn. I have so many questions. Are you still making videos?
It was a royal pain to remove the bottom cover of both of my 158.1525s. I thought they were going to break. Can't believe Kenmore, which was such a design powerhouse for its machines back then, did something like this.
So glad I found your channel, I just was given this sewing machine by my best friend. Her mother passed away and she asked if I wanted it. Well of course! I've been tinkering with it for a few hours. It's doing a straight stitch, but not yet a zig zag. also, I'm having no luck with the presser foot tension knob.It won't budge. Suppose I need to get the wd40 and hopefully it will work some things loose. Thank you for these helpful presentations, I'm looking forward to watching them all.
I would use Tri-Flow oil (not grease), or Liquid Wrench or Spray Loose. Tri-Flow grease is good for the gears in there. With the oil, I got a frozen 158.15250 going pretty smoothly in no time, maybe an hour. The hardest part of the job was getting this bottom cover off!
Keep them coming! I have two Kenmores I am trying to revive. One is a 158.175- and the other is a 158.130- . Neither is a free arm, of course. The .17 is just stiff, similar to yours, but not so much. At least, so far I have not found any thing drastic. The .13 has a 'catch' in it. It rotates freely to a point, then doesn't want to go anymore. I think cleaning will cure it, but haven't got very far. I really bought it to get the table. It was super low price. Your videos are exactly what I need. Thank you.
I feel so sad for my sewing machines. Thank you so very much for you teaching. I have an old machine that be!moved to my mother-in-law and I guess I need to check it over, then maybe find a good home for it. I don't even k know what kind if is...guessing a 1980's something as I remember it's silhouette. Thanks. Loving your videos.
I am cracking up! When you said nobody has opened this up since 1975, since it was shipped from Japan. Lol Mercy me, I have got to get well so I can go look inside my machines....1972 & 1989....I do keep my bobbin case clean tho.
Thanks so much. I also have one of these machines and I suspect it was also greased in places it shouldn't have been. There seemed to be tar, like it was is a smokers room, some coming out the bottom vents near the motor. I didn't know what I was looking at and I used a lot of sewing machine oil up top to get it moving smoothly at first. Sooo I will be taking off the bottom pan (Now that I know how) and confirm. It sews well but the stitch knobs have been a bit stiff. Also, when I take my foot of the power the machine does not stop instantly but I wondered if that was common for this machine. Hopefully nothing to be worried about but it's great to be able to check it out. I appreciate you taking the time to make these videos
Thank you for your comment. I made an earlier video (Rescue Series #1) where I discuss things like stiff dials/knobs and why you don't want to force using them until the machine has been fully reconditioned. Your question on the machine running after your foot comes off of the pedal is curious. This generation SHOULD have its original foot pedal which was one of the earlier electronic foot pedals. If a machine runs continuously, wont run at all, or runs intermittently after you stop applying the pedal, it could be a sign that the pedal is failing. Unlike most analog pedals, the electronic ones are often not repairable, but you could take it to a service center to be sure. The good news is that you can replacement pedals (and cords) that will fit this machine so that your machine can live on even if your pedal doesn't!
I wish I'd known all this when I got the Kenmore 6 years ago! and probably lucky I didn't break it. It wasn't frozen but certainly sticky. And I can see a better cleaning is needed. As to the run on, the foot pedal is original and I will have it serviced if the additional cleaning does not fix that problem. The needle bar will go approx a 1/4 revolution after I lift my foot. I knew this was curious as I have a Bernina Record 830 and the power is instant on it. Another lovely machine. I look forward to the rest of the video on the Kenmore and love watching you show your machines. Cheers!
Do you have a video in which you are working on a machine where the drive shaft is frozen and the needle does not even move up and down? I like how in this video you point out which areas are most relevant for the zig zag, but my Adler that I am working on is also stuck such that there is no up/down movement either.
I have hope for mine too. The knobs won't turn. BUT I didn't force them. I'm wd40 ing them. :) Haven't taken bottom off yet. The screws won't turn. new subby !! :)
Outstanding video. No one else does what you do! Also, good remarks on WD-40. It does have its place and it did a good job on your patient. Looking forward to future installments. BTW: My friend found an old Atlas machine in an abandoned house in Hawaii and she's sending it to me in the states for refurbishment. Your videos are especially valuable to me. I will need to repaint it and I'm looking at using motor engine paint - your opinion is welcome if you care to comment or suggest paint options. It's a classic Pink Atlas machine made in Japan. Sincerely, Mark.
Hello Mark and thanks so much for the kind words of encouragement. The Atlas machines were made by Brother and are wonderful examples of 1950's style and one of the only brands that ever made machines in pink other than Necchi although there could have been others I'm not aware of. As for the paint questions, I have always been an advocate of restoring what is left of the original paint, but I know sometimes it can be in very rough shape and its tempting to repaint it. Keep in mind if you do decide on a repaint that a lot of the time required for such a project is tied up in prepping the machine by cleaning and masking etc. It is VERY crucial to not get paint spray into the many crevices and openings that the machine has so that you don't create issues with internal and external parts. As for paint type, I would always recommend using a solvent based coating instead of an acrylic since acrylics are traditionally softer and don't wear as well as traditional coatings do on metal. You will want to check for compatibility of the new paint with any old paint that might still be left on the paint after prepping for repainting. The paint manufacturer will likely suggest what kind of primer to use. Motor engine paint might work although its primary quality that is sought after is high heat resistance which you don't have to have for sewing machines. Finding the right color might take some time. Good luck with whatever route you go!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Once again I have learned from your sage advice. The Pink Atlas machine is in a dire state. Hawaiian salt air and humidity has not been kind to it as you can well appreciate. It will be my principal 2019 project. I would like to find a paint that I can seal so as to create a gloss finish that is smooth and can be maintained. I'm thinking of visiting an automotive paint shop. If nothing else it will give the employees something to laugh about, "That old man wants us to paint him a pink sewing machine!" I intend for this to be an heirloom item for my daughter. I'm documenting the entire restoration and she will hopefully cherish it for many decades and think of me often, long after I am gone. So there's more to this project than meets the eye. More than a picture or movie, it will be a functioning reminder and an enduring example of my devotion to her. (sorry if that sound corny). Good comment on the heat aspect of engine paint. I'll find someone in town who will use automotive paint and I'll be able to give it a nice smooth, tough, finish. Take care, Mark in Colorado.
Hello Mark and thank you so much for sharing. And no, your thoughts are not "corny" at all. Nostalgia and memories are always about people. The "artifacts" of our lives such as our possessions etc. are reference points for our connections to each other. I have an album which is in its cover and framed on a wall at my home. It is music that my Grandmother once played for me as she taught me to sing and dance to it. It has no meaning to anyone else, but it is a marker for a moment in time that I will always cherish. I think this is why heirlooms matter so much to us. Its not so much about the actual things as it is what and who they represent. Automotive paint is of higher quality than house paint which is reflected in its pricing. As long as you take your time and research what you are doing, I'm sure the project will turn out beautifully. Keep us posted on your progress!
Mark, it is now 2-4-21, and I was wondering if your Pink Atlas project was finished and a success. I know your daughter will cherish it. My grandmother gave me her straight stitch only beautiful blue machine (I think was a Singer) in a well used Singer treadle cabinet, way back in 1965 when I was 13. A few yrs. later mom and I made 106 garments one summer. Guess we drove my poor Dad crazy, he took a hammer and literally beat that machine to a pulp. I have long forgiven him. but still cry about that machine. Forgive an old woman's ramblings. That's how I got my Singer 237, and Kenmore 158.1941.2 I still have both machines and use them.
@@jojosewist8921 Hello ! :) The project was completed long ago. I found a machinist to sand blast the machine and a skate board shop to paint it. My daughter didn't want the machine because she lives in a one bedroom apartment and didn't have room. I donated it to a antique store and they sold it for $350. If someone paid that kind of money, I'm sure it found a good home. I'm currently working on a Singer 99 and Singer 223. Parts on order. And don't give another thought to "an old woman's ramblings". The world would be a much better place if there were more people as thoughtful and kind as you. Thanks for writing. I hope all is well with you and yours.
I just purchased this machine from a thrift store and am excited to get it up and running. The hand wheel will barely turn at all, but otherwise it looks great. I suspect it wasn't used more than once or twice. It's missing the four small screws that attach the drip pan to the bottom of the machine. Do you think they are about half an inch or so long? I'm going to try to find them at the hardware store. Thanks for these videos and this series.
I am interesred in all these vids, and you do a wonderful job of filming and instructing. I have a 158.1941.2 super hi shank that I use regularly. Will you demonstrate the correct amount of grease to use. I am not sure about that. I inherited my machine 25 yrs ago from my mom. I was told by a repairman that these machines like to be oiled regularly so I do it several times a year. Oh, is your machine a left, center, or right needle position?
Hello. Yes, its helpful for the machine if it gets oiled and run at least several times a year. Machines don't like to sit for extended periods and when they do, it is the greatest source of work for me to get them to "wake up" to the point where they sew optimally again. Yes, I plan on making more videos that will show maintenance techniques and I can make a point to show what the optimal amount of grease is in places that require it. Grease does not need to be reapplied nearly as much as sewing machine oil does. Thanks for writing!
Hi! A friend was recently given a 1970s Kenmore 10 model 385.1249180. When she first got it, the machine seemed to be in working condition: the straight stitch works fine & the needle moves smoothly. However, whenever she presses the reverse button, the machine gets stuck in reverse even after releasing the button. It looks like there’s a mechanism that sticks when the reverse button is pressed, and it’s affecting the feed dogs, causing the machine to stay in reverse. We first tried to oil the bottom & top of the machine, as suggested by the manual. When that didn’t fix the problem, we used WD-40 (to get rid of any sticky/gummy parts) and then re-oiled the parts that seem to be causing the reverse mechanism and the feed dogs to be stuck in reverse. But this didn’t seem to help. Do you have any suggestions? If it's not too much to ask, on one of your future videos with this machine, can you show how the reverse lever affect top mechanism (we have some stickiness there too) and the feed dogs? We can see the feed dogs move when the reverse lever is pressed down, but we can't determine how the reverse lever affect the feed dogs. I understand that these are very specific questions and you are working on other projects. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
We fixed it!!!! From the top of the machine, there are two mechanisms that pop up when we hold the reverse button down. The one on the left was sticking and making it more difficult to move the feed dogs. This caused the machine to be stuck in reverse even when we weren't still holding the reverse button down. We sprayed *_A LOT_* of isopropyl alcohol (film remover) to remove any old, sticky grease. Then we moved these mechanism up and down several times until it loosened. We added oil to any parts that we used the film remover on, and the machine was working again like new!
Just bought a Pfaff 78 from 1970 frozen up like that. The shop says they may not be able to fix the zigzag. And if they do, it might work for an hour, a week, or a year and be toast again because they are just so old. Is this accurate or do they just want to sell me a new machine? They want to charge me a $25 bench fee just to look at it. I’m going to try to do it myself because that info sounds suspicious to me.
The $25 bench fee is not high as I have seen worse. For the machines I work on, I find that once the stuck mechanisms are free and working again, they normally continue to work unless the machine is left for long periods. Dormancy is hard on machines and I spend much of my labor "waking them up" by getting them unstuck. FYI, I would keep in mind when you budget for the work that while Pfaffs can make fantastic machines, getting parts for these in North American is a bit more challenging than other brands like Singer. Yahoo groups has one dedicated to Pfaffs and you might find more help there long term after your shop gets yours running. The mechanisms that your shop needs to "unfreeze" can be difficult. My own Pfaff restoration took a LONG time because the owner had stored hers in her attic for over 20 years!!! Also, be extra gentle with the knobs/controls for your machine as I find that Pfaffs are very strong in their metal parts, but their knobs are more fragile than most. In any case, Pfaffs make wonderful stitchers and so if the shop cannot get it back to full functioning, you might find a "fixer" in your community that can overhaul it. And for what its worth, my interest in overhauling machines happened because I bought a machine on Craigslist and it did not run. I was determined to learn how it was SUPPOSED to work and eventually got it fixed. Ironically, it was the same Kenmore model that you seem me working on another version of in my RESCUE series!!
I’m enjoying all the lessons for the vintage machines. I’ve rescued a couple of machines lately so I have a ton to learn. I have so many questions. Are you still making videos?
Beautiful Kenmore sewing machine. Excellent and modern design.
Yes, don't give up on this machine. Thank you for the knowledge.
It was a royal pain to remove the bottom cover of both of my 158.1525s. I thought they were going to break. Can't believe Kenmore, which was such a design powerhouse for its machines back then, did something like this.
So glad I found your channel, I just was given this sewing machine by my best friend. Her mother passed away and she asked if I wanted it. Well of course! I've been tinkering with it for a few hours. It's doing a straight stitch, but not yet a zig zag. also, I'm having no luck with the presser foot tension knob.It won't budge. Suppose I need to get the wd40 and hopefully it will work some things loose. Thank you for these helpful presentations, I'm looking forward to watching them all.
I would use Tri-Flow oil (not grease), or Liquid Wrench or Spray Loose. Tri-Flow grease is good for the gears in there. With the oil, I got a frozen 158.15250 going pretty smoothly in no time, maybe an hour. The hardest part of the job was getting this bottom cover off!
Keep them coming! I have two Kenmores I am trying to revive. One is a 158.175- and the other is a 158.130- . Neither is a free arm, of course. The .17 is just stiff, similar to yours, but not so much. At least, so far I have not found any thing drastic. The .13 has a 'catch' in it. It rotates freely to a point, then doesn't want to go anymore. I think cleaning will cure it, but haven't got very far. I really bought it to get the table. It was super low price. Your videos are exactly what I need. Thank you.
I feel so sad for my sewing machines. Thank you so very much for you teaching. I have an old machine that be!moved to my mother-in-law and I guess I need to check it over, then maybe find a good home for it. I don't even k know what kind if is...guessing a 1980's something as I remember it's silhouette. Thanks. Loving your videos.
I am cracking up! When you said nobody has opened this up since 1975, since it was shipped from Japan. Lol Mercy me, I have got to get well so I can go look inside my machines....1972 & 1989....I do keep my bobbin case clean tho.
So glad I found your channel. Thanks for sharing you knowledge.
Thanks so much. I also have one of these machines and I suspect it was also greased in places it shouldn't have been. There seemed to be tar, like it was is a smokers room, some coming out the bottom vents near the motor. I didn't know what I was looking at and I used a lot of sewing machine oil up top to get it moving smoothly at first. Sooo I will be taking off the bottom pan (Now that I know how) and confirm. It sews well but the stitch knobs have been a bit stiff. Also, when I take my foot of the power the machine does not stop instantly but I wondered if that was common for this machine. Hopefully nothing to be worried about but it's great to be able to check it out. I appreciate you taking the time to make these videos
Thank you for your comment. I made an earlier video (Rescue Series #1) where I discuss things like stiff dials/knobs and why you don't want to force using them until the machine has been fully reconditioned. Your question on the machine running after your foot comes off of the pedal is curious. This generation SHOULD have its original foot pedal which was one of the earlier electronic foot pedals. If a machine runs continuously, wont run at all, or runs intermittently after you stop applying the pedal, it could be a sign that the pedal is failing. Unlike most analog pedals, the electronic ones are often not repairable, but you could take it to a service center to be sure. The good news is that you can replacement pedals (and cords) that will fit this machine so that your machine can live on even if your pedal doesn't!
I wish I'd known all this when I got the Kenmore 6 years ago! and probably lucky I didn't break it. It wasn't frozen but certainly sticky. And I can see a better cleaning is needed. As to the run on, the foot pedal is original and I will have it serviced if the additional cleaning does not fix that problem. The needle bar will go approx a 1/4 revolution after I lift my foot. I knew this was curious as I have a Bernina Record 830 and the power is instant on it. Another lovely machine.
I look forward to the rest of the video on the Kenmore and love watching you show your machines. Cheers!
Do you have a video in which you are working on a machine where the drive shaft is frozen and the needle does not even move up and down? I like how in this video you point out which areas are most relevant for the zig zag, but my Adler that I am working on is also stuck such that there is no up/down movement either.
I have hope for mine too. The knobs won't turn. BUT I didn't force them. I'm wd40 ing them. :) Haven't taken bottom off yet. The screws won't turn. new subby !! :)
Outstanding video. No one else does what you do! Also, good remarks on WD-40. It does have its place and it did a good job on your patient. Looking forward to future installments. BTW: My friend found an old Atlas machine in an abandoned house in Hawaii and she's sending it to me in the states for refurbishment. Your videos are especially valuable to me. I will need to repaint it and I'm looking at using motor engine paint - your opinion is welcome if you care to comment or suggest paint options. It's a classic Pink Atlas machine made in Japan. Sincerely, Mark.
Hello Mark and thanks so much for the kind words of encouragement. The Atlas machines were made by Brother and are wonderful examples of 1950's style and one of the only brands that ever made machines in pink other than Necchi although there could have been others I'm not aware of. As for the paint questions, I have always been an advocate of restoring what is left of the original paint, but I know sometimes it can be in very rough shape and its tempting to repaint it. Keep in mind if you do decide on a repaint that a lot of the time required for such a project is tied up in prepping the machine by cleaning and masking etc. It is VERY crucial to not get paint spray into the many crevices and openings that the machine has so that you don't create issues with internal and external parts. As for paint type, I would always recommend using a solvent based coating instead of an acrylic since acrylics are traditionally softer and don't wear as well as traditional coatings do on metal. You will want to check for compatibility of the new paint with any old paint that might still be left on the paint after prepping for repainting. The paint manufacturer will likely suggest what kind of primer to use. Motor engine paint might work although its primary quality that is sought after is high heat resistance which you don't have to have for sewing machines. Finding the right color might take some time. Good luck with whatever route you go!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Once again I have learned from your sage advice. The Pink Atlas machine is in a dire state. Hawaiian salt air and humidity has not been kind to it as you can well appreciate. It will be my principal 2019 project. I would like to find a paint that I can seal so as to create a gloss finish that is smooth and can be maintained. I'm thinking of visiting an automotive paint shop. If nothing else it will give the employees something to laugh about, "That old man wants us to paint him a pink sewing machine!" I intend for this to be an heirloom item for my daughter. I'm documenting the entire restoration and she will hopefully cherish it for many decades and think of me often, long after I am gone. So there's more to this project than meets the eye. More than a picture or movie, it will be a functioning reminder and an enduring example of my devotion to her. (sorry if that sound corny). Good comment on the heat aspect of engine paint. I'll find someone in town who will use automotive paint and I'll be able to give it a nice smooth, tough, finish. Take care, Mark in Colorado.
Hello Mark and thank you so much for sharing. And no, your thoughts are not "corny" at all. Nostalgia and memories are always about people. The "artifacts" of our lives such as our possessions etc. are reference points for our connections to each other. I have an album which is in its cover and framed on a wall at my home. It is music that my Grandmother once played for me as she taught me to sing and dance to it. It has no meaning to anyone else, but it is a marker for a moment in time that I will always cherish. I think this is why heirlooms matter so much to us. Its not so much about the actual things as it is what and who they represent.
Automotive paint is of higher quality than house paint which is reflected in its pricing. As long as you take your time and research what you are doing, I'm sure the project will turn out beautifully. Keep us posted on your progress!
Mark, it is now 2-4-21, and I was wondering if your Pink Atlas project was finished and a success. I know your daughter will cherish it. My grandmother gave me her straight stitch only beautiful blue machine (I think was a Singer) in a well used Singer treadle cabinet, way back in 1965 when I was 13. A few yrs. later mom and I made 106 garments one summer. Guess we drove my poor Dad crazy, he took a hammer and literally beat that machine to a pulp. I have long forgiven him. but still cry about that machine. Forgive an old woman's ramblings. That's how I got my Singer 237, and Kenmore 158.1941.2 I still have both machines and use them.
@@jojosewist8921 Hello ! :) The project was completed long ago. I found a machinist to sand blast the machine and a skate board shop to paint it. My daughter didn't want the machine because she lives in a one bedroom apartment and didn't have room. I donated it to a antique store and they sold it for $350. If someone paid that kind of money, I'm sure it found a good home. I'm currently working on a Singer 99 and Singer 223. Parts on order. And don't give another thought to "an old woman's ramblings". The world would be a much better place if there were more people as thoughtful and kind as you. Thanks for writing. I hope all is well with you and yours.
@17:16 the black box area. Do you have a video to changing out that plastic gear inside? It controls the timing of the bobbin.
I hope you get her going!
Thank you! Very helpful!
I just purchased this machine from a thrift store and am excited to get it up and running. The hand wheel will barely turn at all, but otherwise it looks great. I suspect it wasn't used more than once or twice. It's missing the four small screws that attach the drip pan to the bottom of the machine. Do you think they are about half an inch or so long? I'm going to try to find them at the hardware store. Thanks for these videos and this series.
I am interesred in all these vids, and you do a wonderful job of filming and instructing. I have a 158.1941.2 super hi shank that I use regularly. Will you demonstrate the correct amount of grease to use. I am not sure about that. I inherited my machine 25 yrs ago from my mom. I was told by a repairman that these machines like to be oiled regularly so I do it several times a year. Oh, is your machine a left, center, or right needle position?
Hello. Yes, its helpful for the machine if it gets oiled and run at least several times a year. Machines don't like to sit for extended periods and when they do, it is the greatest source of work for me to get them to "wake up" to the point where they sew optimally again. Yes, I plan on making more videos that will show maintenance techniques and I can make a point to show what the optimal amount of grease is in places that require it. Grease does not need to be reapplied nearly as much as sewing machine oil does. Thanks for writing!
Would you ever consider removing the motor so that you could apply degreaser more liberally?
That might end up being necessary Jim.
Hi!
A friend was recently given a 1970s Kenmore 10 model 385.1249180. When she first got it, the machine seemed to be in working condition: the straight stitch works fine & the needle moves smoothly. However, whenever she presses the reverse button, the machine gets stuck in reverse even after releasing the button. It looks like there’s a mechanism that sticks when the reverse button is pressed, and it’s affecting the feed dogs, causing the machine to stay in reverse. We first tried to oil the bottom & top of the machine, as suggested by the manual. When that didn’t fix the problem, we used WD-40 (to get rid of any sticky/gummy parts) and then re-oiled the parts that seem to be causing the reverse mechanism and the feed dogs to be stuck in reverse. But this didn’t seem to help. Do you have any suggestions?
If it's not too much to ask, on one of your future videos with this machine, can you show how the reverse lever affect top mechanism (we have some stickiness there too) and the feed dogs? We can see the feed dogs move when the reverse lever is pressed down, but we can't determine how the reverse lever affect the feed dogs.
I understand that these are very specific questions and you are working on other projects. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
We fixed it!!!! From the top of the machine, there are two mechanisms that pop up when we hold the reverse button down. The one on the left was sticking and making it more difficult to move the feed dogs. This caused the machine to be stuck in reverse even when we weren't still holding the reverse button down. We sprayed *_A LOT_* of isopropyl alcohol (film remover) to remove any old, sticky grease. Then we moved these mechanism up and down several times until it loosened. We added oil to any parts that we used the film remover on, and the machine was working again like new!
Congratulations! This is great to hear!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thank you so much! Also, I wanted to thank you for inspiring us not to give up.
Just bought a Pfaff 78 from 1970 frozen up like that. The shop says they may not be able to fix the zigzag. And if they do, it might work for an hour, a week, or a year and be toast again because they are just so old. Is this accurate or do they just want to sell me a new machine? They want to charge me a $25 bench fee just to look at it. I’m going to try to do it myself because that info sounds suspicious to me.
The $25 bench fee is not high as I have seen worse. For the machines I work on, I find that once the stuck mechanisms are free and working again, they normally continue to work unless the machine is left for long periods. Dormancy is hard on machines and I spend much of my labor "waking them up" by getting them unstuck. FYI, I would keep in mind when you budget for the work that while Pfaffs can make fantastic machines, getting parts for these in North American is a bit more challenging than other brands like Singer. Yahoo groups has one dedicated to Pfaffs and you might find more help there long term after your shop gets yours running. The mechanisms that your shop needs to "unfreeze" can be difficult. My own Pfaff restoration took a LONG time because the owner had stored hers in her attic for over 20 years!!! Also, be extra gentle with the knobs/controls for your machine as I find that Pfaffs are very strong in their metal parts, but their knobs are more fragile than most. In any case, Pfaffs make wonderful stitchers and so if the shop cannot get it back to full functioning, you might find a "fixer" in your community that can overhaul it. And for what its worth, my interest in overhauling machines happened because I bought a machine on Craigslist and it did not run. I was determined to learn how it was SUPPOSED to work and eventually got it fixed. Ironically, it was the same Kenmore model that you seem me working on another version of in my RESCUE series!!