Here at Hofer, in Austria (the local representation of Aldi Süd), fully compatible yet different battery packs where sold. Same external design but different molds for the injection molding. Slightly different internal construction. Different PCB with components on the top (visible) side (but not really identifiable due to a conformal coating). Samsung INR18650 cells (20R and 25R respectively) instead of the LG cells. These Samsung cells are specification-wise comparable to the LG cells. The Samsung filled batteries name Conmetall Meister as supplier (same as most FERREX hand tools) while the LG filled packs are supplied by VARO from Belgium (official provider of this or a very similar battery system, as it seems). They also have different product IDs (AEB 20 - 2.0I and AEB 2040 - 2.5I instead of XYZ561 and XYZ562). You will find these IDs in the compatibility section of the technical specifications in the manuals of the tools\charger. As I live close to the german boarder I also have a set of the LG filled packs from ALDI Süd, so I now own four different types of battery packs for this system.
Really impressed with that drill... I bought one of those a year ago, £30 battery (20/40) and a charger and I’ve brutalised it all year... still going strong. It was so good that I bought the rotary SDS and the impact driver. For the three drills and two 20/40 batteries I paid £130! All with 3 year warranties. You really can’t complain at that; even a cheaper brand you’d struggle to get that set for much shy of 4-500 quid.
I like how neatly put together those batteries are: The case comes off without any fuss, tidy metal connections, no ugly dangling wires! (well, excepting the small charge indicator board)
The BMS for the 20/40 pack is probably slightly more complicated than two independent balancers since not only is it necessary to keep the voltage of each cell within a 20V pack balanced. It is also necessary to keep the voltage of the two 20V packs the same, since otherwise when going from 40V series usage to 20V parallel usage there could be a huge current spike tripping the fuse.
I have bought tools in Aldi, they are usually good tools, although sometimes it has its bad part, for example the tips of Topcraft / Duro welders are damaged too easily, although it is not a bad product and it has very good safety, double Insulation that indicates the product is real, with good grounding in the metal, and as an extra it has very good thermal insulation (I have disassembled it, and it surpasses the JBC in that aspect). I work with JBC and with the Aldi Duro/Topcraft welder, I prefer the Aldi, it is ergonomic and the handle is not heated with the use (thing with the JBC gets super hot). And what surprised me most about the Aldi welder, is its electric cable, it is of very excellent quality, I put it to the test to put the tip in the cable and it did not deform nor a millimeter, it surprised me a lot. Aldi usually sell cheap products, but they are not fake, and if it indicates the product that promises some function, it is real.
I'm waiting for tools to be 21/42V. They used be called 18V tools. Then some marketing guy at a manufacturer, that most likely made crappy tools, found out that it's just the nominal voltage. Boom! 20V tools were born without any difference to the 18V ones except for the label. Hey, it's almost 10% better! But we are not there yet. 4V per cell is not the max. Seeing 18/36V on a tool battery has almost become a sign of quality (and manufacturers like Bosch, Makita and Metabo are still using those numbers).
I read somewhere that the rounded maximum voltage of the battery systems (12V for 3 cells, 20V for 5 cells, ...) was already used for marketing reasons in the US for quite some time. And iirc it was one of the big US brands that introduced this nomenclature here in Europe. And because less technical people (or less electrically knowledgeable in this case) seem to associate big numbers with more power, other manufacturers (at least in the non- or semi-professional sector) had to adopt in order to not lose market share. Bosch did the same in it's green line with the 12V system (compatible to 10.8V 😉). Also this system of the FERREX tools is at least labeled "MAX 20V/40V" in some places (e.g. on the colored labels on the box), which is more true, though still not really correct.
NiCads were 18V. ( 1.2*15 =18). The closest voltage for lithium was 20v or 5 cells. It makes sense manufactures that sold older packs set for 18v to avoid confusion while newer ones using lithium exclusively settled on 20 or 21.
Normally they rate the cells as 3.6V as this is lower voltage of cells cut off 5x 3.6 18v, but fully charged 4.2v x 5 = 21v, its usual to recommend to only charge to 4.1 and discharge to 3-3.6v for cell longevity, so this is Why most say 18v and use same amount of cells as the new 20v lie although capacity comes from discharge to 2.5v up to 4.2 = 2000mah+ depending on which cell used but in 18650s there has not been much new development , but when run down and charged to max cell life is usually demished quicker around 100 cycle before % of capacity drops , and failures the board PCB should prevent this hence never fully discharge or maximize the charge to give longer cycles life 150- 200 cycles, we should be using the 21700s now lower internal Res and some good china brands like Molicel P26A 18650 are P42A 21700 are taking on the big 3 Sony LG Samsung, Sanyo 20700s ain't bad either it is in some tool brands . I use an array of cells for vaping with regulated mechanical and MOSFET outputs so different cells are needed which use an array of cells depending on how hard you push your cells, from Higher amps lower capacity to higher capacity and lower amps depending on what type mod they are used in Sony vtc4 30amp 2000mah VTC5-20amp 2500mah VTC5A 25amp 2500mah VTC6 15-20amp3100mah 18650, LG HG2 3000mah 15amp-20amp, Samsung 25R/20amp Samsung 25s/20amp Samsung 30Q 18650,Samsung rated at lower from something like 6amp but tests show can do 15- 20amp rated very conservatively. Samsung 30T 21700 30amp 3000mah 3ah good cells for power tools Molicel P26A 25amp 2500mah Molicel P42A 30amp 4200mah 4.2 ah But at 6-10£ per cell battery pack can become expensive, You would think these larger Ah pack would be using newer cells but sadly nope most just run series and parallel setups of 18650s that cost far less than newer cells,
Most 18650's either have high capacity, or high drain. You have to sacrifice one for the other because, physics. You need thicker materials to carry more current, which of course means you must sacrifice capacity.
I'm wondering if this battery and charger system could easily be reused for homebrew projects. That largely boils down to the availability of connectors to accept the batteries, I guess.
Did you ever teardown the charger? I bought one looking for a cheap 21V CC/CV psu to replace one that had blown on another piece of equipment. The ID input is a problem though. I opened it myself to see and it's complex, controlled by a ST MCU which monitors the output current, battery temperature NTC and feeds back to the power stage to control the voltage. I don't know what it does with the ID, it could be a basic analog thing or perhaps a digital one. I will need an oscilloscope to see. Did you work out the ID?
Wondering if you made a video of the stripped down charger unti? Went through your playlists but didnt find one. Also taking this opportunity to say what a pleasure it is to listen to your videos, such lovely diction. 🍻
@@night6452 I can't say I agree I have exclusively used makita for many years and prior to cordless they were bullet proof. My most recent experiences have been two different tools one being a drill the other a driver both failing as a result of battery failure, over discharged. Both batteries had different versions of lg cells, one set were damaged beyond recovery the other salvagable for use in projects. Needless to say I will not be purchasing anymore cordless makita tools!
Currently £15 for the 40volt battery thats £1.50 per cell for 2500ma genuine cells. Anyone wanting to make battery packs for electric bikes, powerwalls etc you wont a better deal anywhere.
Does anybody still have this battery? I'm trying to make adaptor for lawn mower, but it does not work when i give ~80% from battery voltage to temp clamp. Tool is 40v, and author while stripped down tested it only with 20V battery pack. My question is: Does it have up to 20V on temp clamp when connected to 40V tool, or is it doubled, because cells are joined in serial, so it's gonna be up to 40V on temp clamp?
Ok, bought one to test myself. ~21 celcius degrees thermal sensor is about 10.5KOhm between B1- and T clamps. That's enough to get 40V device running. My batteries got thermal protection built in anyway, so i don't need it.
@@נוחיחזקאל can't remember now, but I think it was higher one in battery, closer to cells. I can double check it next Friday if you mention me here again.
i rarely comment on your videos but watch nearly all of them, here in ireland i seen the 20v packs in aldi today they are coming with samsung cells INR18650 20R like someone else in comments said, i wonder why they used different cells.
One important question remains unanswered. Does it have a suicide chip on the BMS. This being if the batteries are disconnected for replacement, the BMS kills it self. Like the one's on the e-bikes.
If it does have a suicide chip, it would probably be a simple matter to trace the circuit and bypass that section of the circuit. It may also be possible to get a cheap Chinese BMS (or two for the larger pack) and if they fit in the physical space available, they can replace the dead circuit.
Hi Julian If I connect the two 20v ferrex batteries back to back after properly removing & soldering the B2+ / B2-, will the charger be able to charge this modified battery? Thanks
I’ve got one of these 20/40v batteries but no charger , anyway to charge it with a adjustable dc power supply or maybe a charger for a different brand drill ?
@@chaswinderit’s a bit hassle but a adjustable dc power supply woks, you have to charge both section separate, first b1 side then b2 side, Aldi had the chargers on offer recently and I did get one, I think they was £7 but you can use a adjustable dec power supply
@@M.E63 Excellent, thanks. I only have the 20V battery rather than the dual 20/40 but wasn't sure how to connect up a psu to the pins on the battery (presuming *not* just +20V and 0V). Cheers
Hi @@M.E63 sorry for the delay in replying. From left to right the 5 spade slots are labelled B1-, B2-, T / ID, B1+, B2+. There is no spade terminal in slot 2 for B2-. Voltage between B1- and B1+ is 11.8V, between B1- and B2+ it's 17.9V
Brilliant video mate! I am now on the final week of exams (14 out of 18 done) and cannot wait to watch the entire amount of videos on your channel, 3 months of freedom is going to be fun!!
Hello Julian, - are the contact groups independent on 20V/40V battery? I suppose, they become parallel in case of 20V tool, and if we use 40V device, the device connects the two 20v-groups in series. Am I right?
saw them into Aldi this week, all seperated tools and batterys, i dont know ... not that cheap as the Duro tools they had which are very great in my experiance i use one for 3/4 year on my work, same signle battery and still doing great , mostly just use for screws like 4x35 and wooddrilling 20mm. it was insane cheap just 20 euro i wish they come back i would buy more of them. never seen them again while Duro stuff is still common in the Aldi.
The big battery pack either delivers 40A at 18V (20V) or 20A at 36V (40V) continuously, while the small one is able to deliver 25A at 18V (20V), if we stick with the specifications of the LG cells and don't consider any heating issues. So theoretically the big pack could continuously provide around 720W and the small one 450W, within cell specifications.
Thank you for valued insight... Would somebody help me know could I somehow easily lower the voltage to use with 20 W equipment that operates between 12 to Max 18 V ? Thank you...
Strange... the Dutch box says the 20/40 batterypack contains Samsung accucells! BTW...do you know if the accessories from any other multitool do fit the ferrex multitool?
Clas Olsson are not doing well in the UK? Here in sweden they have a problem od serious over establishment since there is a mall every SqKm these days and they have to be in all of them.
bought one of those and it died after one year without much use. i only ever used it maybe 5 times as a power screwdriver. from what i can see it was the circuit inside the battery that just died.
Its more likely that the cells overdischarged themselves from not being used to much, so much so that the BMS wont turn on or work. I had the exact same thing with mine. I just hat to charge the 18650s individually using a tp4056 and some crocodile clips and it brought it back to life. Try it. TP4056's are like 1 quid or less each.
@@ratgreen checked the cells and they were all over 4V so it should have worked, got fed up in the end and just bridged out the mosfet turning it on permanently, works now
I've a few ferrex tools and all have been great especially for their price and a 3 yr warranty! I also have both these batteries. I used the smaller 20v on my kids electric 6v bike... power wheelies happened 😅 I'm wondering how I'd go about using the 40v battery on the bike in the same way to increase the power further as I've now fitted a 12v motor so its slower , any tips? cheers
What voltage are we expecting on the T pin?I have connected the ferrex air pump to a power supply set to 20V, the Led comes up briefly but the pump doesnt start, making me think that the microcontroller thinks the battery has a low voltage. I dont have this issue with the impact driver as it doesnt seems to make use of the T pin. I currently dont own the battery asa I use the Lidl one. anyhelp help much appreciated. thanks
I bought about 5 of the 40v ones after opening one and seeing that they were the green Samsung 25Rs. That's 100 watt-hours for 35 euro or €3.50 a cell which is quite reasonable. I have a 20v one also but haven't opened it yet (don't have a Torx screwdriver). The 40v ones sold out within a day (It seems others had the same idea as me) I was in 3 different Aldis in 3 different counties over the last week and they still have a stack of the 20v ones @ €20. Was thinking of trying to cut a deal with them, by buying 100 of them, if they would sell at 10-15 apiece.
I got all there tools apart from the lawnmower and numerous batteries they are very good so far I'm impressed I just hope they add to the range as I see they brought out a 18v ferrex combi drill which is not compatible with the 20v stuff naughty really also this drill has no hammer function. The aldi tools are better than lidl but lidl batterys seem better built and a nicer feel.
I had it in my head these were Samsung cells.... And sure enough, my boxes advertise Samsung cells inside. I'm sure they're the same spec, good to see they're sourcing from multiple brands to hopefully keep prices down!
hi great videos can you please tell me as i would like to use the batterys i have the 20/40 v batterys and would lke to use them camping or fishing and would like to power lights and items as you can buy a unit that is a usb charger that allows you to charge phones and such as i have low watt led lights which use a usb fitting what compaitble usb units do i buy to use with thease batterys i.e makita .. dewalt .
Cheers for this.. I've spotted various tools in Aldi lately, always wondered if any are up to snuff.. I'm thinking that if we add to the driver, the cost of battery which isn't included and the charger, it's surely heading towards £90 or so?
@@kitecattestecke2303 I hardly go to Lidl, even though Aldi is right next door! I needed a cheapish cordless drill for light work around the house - actually drilling 2mm hole in 2mm stainless steel.. eventually went with something from Amazon: TACKLIFE PCD01B Cordless. It's much more powerful than I thought. £40 with battery and charger so, yeah.. can't really argue!
I've just bought the Ferrex impact driver and the 20/40 volt pack and charger for it. It's awesome for putting large wood screws into hardwood. I just wish I hadn't bought one of the Workzone drills a couple of months ago. That's two different battery packs to handle, plus another one for my old Bosch drill. Why can't they standardise battery packs? It's all down to money I guess. Still, I might be tempted to buy the chainsaw!
I have a temporary setup with Parkside 20V 4Ah packs wired in series and parallel, that has worked very well used twice a week for a year. Think I just need to get a 40v charger and hard wire them together. But at the moment in charging separately.
Hi Julian, I have two 20/40v packs for a 40v (36v) project and wish to connect them 40v in parallel or 2x 20v in series but unsure of the connections B1-,B2- & B1+,B2+ . Not wishing to damage the batteries , did you work out how the connection could be made. Perhaps the tool makes a link 20/40v . I can only measure 20v(18v) at B1- & B1+ or am I just missing something. Great video must checkout more thanks.
It looks like these batteries do not have a cell balance function - the circuit on the backside of the 20V cct board monitors cell voltages and temperature but there is no balance facility. Somebody is gambling that the cells are so closely matched that the charge discharge cycle wear is even .... Three year warranty in a domestic situation ... that's likely a gamble worth taking - now where's that receipt?
Hi Julian. I learn much from your videos. The stuff on high power LEDs has helped me out slot. Thanks. I bought the ferrex cordless angle grinder which is a good tool, however I need another 40 v battery pack. They have discontinued these battery's do you know any ' hacks' to use an alternative????
These tools are made by Walter a German company that also makes erbauer and numerous other tools. The charger could do with a fan but the chainsaw and impact driver and grinder are very good better than my 18v ryobi stuff
Depending on the type of the BMS chip this may be quite a difficult task. In some of the Li-Ion drill batteries, if any of the cells is removed it is seen by the BMS as damaged and the whole thing is shut down permanently.
The higher "pulse current" discharge ratings you can find on vape sites and vape suppliers is pretty much bullshit, as there are no agreed upon pulse lengths, cooldown times or cutoff temperatures. They're basically just marketing blah blah. (And possibly somewhat dangerous if people treat a "45A" as continuous current.
I must visit the new Aldi in Baker Street High Wycombe the next time I am in the Desborough Road area, infamous for it's one and two star take aways, and nefarious activities.
I was rather excited to learn there was a town called Desborough. Then I talked to someone from the UK who described it in not so nice terms. Seems the road is simmilar. I guess my last name isn't going to get me the Royal treatment if I pay a visit. 😀
Since this video I have looked in a 20v battery pack, from last year and now it has more circuitry, and this week I have another on order due 3rd April 22 Let’s see if more circuitry has been added again
Great vid helped me alot im having major issues with charging a 160 quid li-ion battery pack lol, I was going to split my cells and use the aldi active I have in the shed but i 'm struggling to find your active charger teardown you said you was going to do, did you do one? Thanks
The Clas Olson in Reading is the one I go to! That's handy that that's the one staying open :O I go there when I go and stay with my friend. I'm surprised those battery packs don't have any potting or solastic crap whatsoever :O I wonder what the rating on that fusible link is? Can't wait for the charger video :D
@@JulianIlett Yeah it can really sting you 😓 My friend lives in Woodley so we get the bus into town on most occasions, often spending most of the day there, bopping about from shop to shop
Yep, I'd be going after the 20/40 pack. If I was to Disassemble the pack for other use those cells would be way better for my uses. E-Bike Packs. LOL This Item does not seem to be Marketed here in the U.S.
20v DC wont shock you at all unless your soaking wet with salty water. its not AC voltage just dont short them against any metal and you'll be fine. you dont hear many stories of people getting shocked from 12v car batteries because human skin resistance is too high for any meaningful current to flow with low voltage DC You want to worry about AC voltage. because it starts to get dangerous at 30v AC.
The 40A current doesn't matter unless the resistance is low enough. (ie. 1 ohm) But it would be interesting to test the battery pack like you do a 9V... put your tongue across the terminals. ;-P
@@ElmerFuddGun Well, if you have some moisture or sweat on your fingers, and you mange to place it across ground and + 40v you are likely to get a bad burn, even at just 40v, with 40a capability, only the internal/external resistance in your finger will be a limiting factor.
Here at Hofer, in Austria (the local representation of Aldi Süd), fully compatible yet different battery packs where sold. Same external design but different molds for the injection molding. Slightly different internal construction. Different PCB with components on the top (visible) side (but not really identifiable due to a conformal coating). Samsung INR18650 cells (20R and 25R respectively) instead of the LG cells. These Samsung cells are specification-wise comparable to the LG cells. The Samsung filled batteries name Conmetall Meister as supplier (same as most FERREX hand tools) while the LG filled packs are supplied by VARO from Belgium (official provider of this or a very similar battery system, as it seems). They also have different product IDs (AEB 20 - 2.0I and AEB 2040 - 2.5I instead of XYZ561 and XYZ562). You will find these IDs in the compatibility section of the technical specifications in the manuals of the tools\charger.
As I live close to the german boarder I also have a set of the LG filled packs from ALDI Süd, so I now own four different types of battery packs for this system.
Really impressed with that drill... I bought one of those a year ago, £30 battery (20/40) and a charger and I’ve brutalised it all year... still going strong. It was so good that I bought the rotary SDS and the impact driver. For the three drills and two 20/40 batteries I paid £130! All with 3 year warranties. You really can’t complain at that; even a cheaper brand you’d struggle to get that set for much shy of 4-500 quid.
I like how neatly put together those batteries are: The case comes off without any fuss, tidy metal connections, no ugly dangling wires! (well, excepting the small charge indicator board)
The BMS for the 20/40 pack is probably slightly more complicated than two independent balancers since not only is it necessary to keep the voltage of each cell within a 20V pack balanced. It is also necessary to keep the voltage of the two 20V packs the same, since otherwise when going from 40V series usage to 20V parallel usage there could be a huge current spike tripping the fuse.
I have bought tools in Aldi, they are usually good tools, although sometimes it has its bad part, for example the tips of Topcraft / Duro welders are damaged too easily, although it is not a bad product and it has very good safety, double Insulation that indicates the product is real, with good grounding in the metal, and as an extra it has very good thermal insulation (I have disassembled it, and it surpasses the JBC in that aspect). I work with JBC and with the Aldi Duro/Topcraft welder, I prefer the Aldi, it is ergonomic and the handle is not heated with the use (thing with the JBC gets super hot).
And what surprised me most about the Aldi welder, is its electric cable, it is of very excellent quality, I put it to the test to put the tip in the cable and it did not deform nor a millimeter, it surprised me a lot.
Aldi usually sell cheap products, but they are not fake, and if it indicates the product that promises some function, it is real.
I'm waiting for tools to be 21/42V. They used be called 18V tools. Then some marketing guy at a manufacturer, that most likely made crappy tools, found out that it's just the nominal voltage. Boom! 20V tools were born without any difference to the 18V ones except for the label. Hey, it's almost 10% better! But we are not there yet. 4V per cell is not the max.
Seeing 18/36V on a tool battery has almost become a sign of quality (and manufacturers like Bosch, Makita and Metabo are still using those numbers).
I read somewhere that the rounded maximum voltage of the battery systems (12V for 3 cells, 20V for 5 cells, ...) was already used for marketing reasons in the US for quite some time. And iirc it was one of the big US brands that introduced this nomenclature here in Europe. And because less technical people (or less electrically knowledgeable in this case) seem to associate big numbers with more power, other manufacturers (at least in the non- or semi-professional sector) had to adopt in order to not lose market share. Bosch did the same in it's green line with the 12V system (compatible to 10.8V 😉).
Also this system of the FERREX tools is at least labeled "MAX 20V/40V" in some places (e.g. on the colored labels on the box), which is more true, though still not really correct.
NiCads were 18V. ( 1.2*15 =18). The closest voltage for lithium was 20v or 5 cells.
It makes sense manufactures that sold older packs set for 18v to avoid confusion while newer ones using lithium exclusively settled on 20 or 21.
Normally they rate the cells as 3.6V as this is lower voltage of cells cut off 5x 3.6 18v,
but fully charged 4.2v x 5 = 21v, its usual to recommend to only charge to 4.1 and discharge to 3-3.6v for cell longevity, so this is Why most say 18v and use same amount of cells as the new 20v lie
although capacity comes from discharge to 2.5v up to 4.2 = 2000mah+ depending on which cell used but in 18650s there has not been much new development ,
but when run down and charged to max cell life is usually demished quicker around 100 cycle before % of capacity drops , and failures the board PCB should prevent this hence never fully discharge or maximize the charge to give longer cycles life 150- 200 cycles,
we should be using the 21700s now lower internal Res and some good china brands like Molicel P26A 18650 are P42A 21700 are taking on the big 3 Sony LG Samsung,
Sanyo 20700s ain't bad either it is in some tool brands .
I use an array of cells for vaping with regulated mechanical and MOSFET outputs so different cells are needed
which use an array of cells depending on how hard you push your cells, from Higher amps lower capacity to higher capacity and lower amps depending on what type mod they are used in
Sony vtc4 30amp 2000mah VTC5-20amp 2500mah
VTC5A 25amp 2500mah
VTC6 15-20amp3100mah 18650,
LG HG2 3000mah 15amp-20amp,
Samsung 25R/20amp Samsung 25s/20amp Samsung 30Q 18650,Samsung rated at lower from something like 6amp but tests show can do 15- 20amp rated very conservatively.
Samsung 30T 21700 30amp 3000mah 3ah good cells for power tools
Molicel P26A 25amp 2500mah
Molicel P42A 30amp 4200mah 4.2 ah
But at 6-10£ per cell battery pack can become expensive,
You would think these larger Ah pack would be using newer cells but sadly nope most just run series and parallel setups of 18650s that cost far less than newer cells,
Most 18650's either have high capacity, or high drain. You have to sacrifice one for the other because, physics. You need thicker materials to carry more current, which of course means you must sacrifice capacity.
I'm wondering if this battery and charger system could easily be reused for homebrew projects. That largely boils down to the availability of connectors to accept the batteries, I guess.
how many volts has B + and B-, T and ID and how many ohms has B-, T and ID.Does anyone know?
did you manage to hack the charger?
Did you ever teardown the charger? I bought one looking for a cheap 21V CC/CV psu to replace one that had blown on another piece of equipment. The ID input is a problem though. I opened it myself to see and it's complex, controlled by a ST MCU which monitors the output current, battery temperature NTC and feeds back to the power stage to control the voltage. I don't know what it does with the ID, it could be a basic analog thing or perhaps a digital one. I will need an oscilloscope to see. Did you work out the ID?
Wondering if you made a video of the stripped down charger unti? Went through your playlists but didnt find one. Also taking this opportunity to say what a pleasure it is to listen to your videos, such lovely diction. 🍻
Interesting, but NKON sell Sanyo/Panasonic 2500mah capacity capable of 30amp continuous discharge rating for 2.65 euro each...
Sad part is the makita tools batteries don't even come close for triple the price!
@@night6452 I can't say I agree I have exclusively used makita for many years and prior to cordless they were bullet proof. My most recent experiences have been two different tools one being a drill the other a driver both failing as a result of battery failure, over discharged. Both batteries had different versions of lg cells, one set were damaged beyond recovery the other salvagable for use in projects. Needless to say I will not be purchasing anymore cordless makita tools!
Currently £15 for the 40volt battery thats £1.50 per cell for 2500ma genuine cells. Anyone wanting to make battery packs for electric bikes, powerwalls etc you wont a better deal anywhere.
Does anybody still have this battery? I'm trying to make adaptor for lawn mower, but it does not work when i give ~80% from battery voltage to temp clamp. Tool is 40v, and author while stripped down tested it only with 20V battery pack. My question is:
Does it have up to 20V on temp clamp when connected to 40V tool, or is it doubled, because cells are joined in serial, so it's gonna be up to 40V on temp clamp?
Ok, bought one to test myself. ~21 celcius degrees thermal sensor is about 10.5KOhm between B1- and T clamps. That's enough to get 40V device running. My batteries got thermal protection built in anyway, so i don't need it.
@@krzysztoff5793 Is the T contact the high or the low?
@@נוחיחזקאל can't remember now, but I think it was higher one in battery, closer to cells. I can double check it next Friday if you mention me here again.
i rarely comment on your videos but watch nearly all of them, here in ireland i seen the 20v packs in aldi today they are coming with samsung cells INR18650 20R like someone else in comments said, i wonder why they used different cells.
One important question remains unanswered. Does it have a suicide chip on the BMS. This being if the batteries are disconnected for replacement, the BMS kills it self. Like the one's on the e-bikes.
Not sure I want to find out.
@@JulianIlett if you ever replace them, be sure to have the minimum voltage over the battery contacts by using a psu.
If it does have a suicide chip, it would probably be a simple matter to trace the circuit and bypass that section of the circuit. It may also be possible to get a cheap Chinese BMS (or two for the larger pack) and if they fit in the physical space available, they can replace the dead circuit.
Hi Julian
If I connect the two 20v ferrex batteries back to back after properly removing & soldering the B2+ / B2-, will the charger be able to charge this modified battery? Thanks
It looks like the HD2's for £15/5 is an amazing deal. On ebay, they are sold for vape machines for £6 or more!
I’ve got one of these 20/40v batteries but no charger , anyway to charge it with a adjustable dc power supply or maybe a charger for a different brand drill ?
Did you ever figure out how to wire it up to charge it? I'm in the same position as you.
@@chaswinderit’s a bit hassle but a adjustable dc power supply woks, you have to charge both section separate, first b1 side then b2 side, Aldi had the chargers on offer recently and I did get one, I think they was £7 but you can use a adjustable dec power supply
@@M.E63 Excellent, thanks. I only have the 20V battery rather than the dual 20/40 but wasn't sure how to connect up a psu to the pins on the battery (presuming *not* just +20V and 0V). Cheers
@@chaswinder what’s the pin markings on your battery ?
Hi @@M.E63 sorry for the delay in replying. From left to right the 5 spade slots are labelled B1-, B2-, T / ID, B1+, B2+. There is no spade terminal in slot 2 for B2-. Voltage between B1- and B1+ is 11.8V, between B1- and B2+ it's 17.9V
Brilliant video mate!
I am now on the final week of exams (14 out of 18 done) and cannot wait to watch the entire amount of videos on your channel, 3 months of freedom is going to be fun!!
You'll have grey hair after you watched all videos.
900 now I believe :)
Julian Ilett think I can do that! Can’t wait 😎
What's that light brown JLCPCB thing on the cutting mat? Looks like one of those packets of sugar they give you in cafes.
It's the lid of their cardboard pen :)
This comment made me laugh... Hahahaha.
did you manage to hack the charger? I would like to charge other batteries. unfortunately I can't cheat the ID slot.
Which is the ID contact? The high or low?
Hi Julian, did you ever get round to posting a video for the charger teardown? Thanks
Is it possible to get a replacement board as my pack wont charge OR power the tool.
LG cells for £3 each ain't too shabby
Hello Julian, - are the contact groups independent on 20V/40V battery? I suppose, they become parallel in case of 20V tool, and if we use 40V device, the device connects the two 20v-groups in series. Am I right?
saw them into Aldi this week, all seperated tools and batterys, i dont know ... not that cheap as the Duro tools they had which are very great in my experiance i use one for 3/4 year on my work, same signle battery and still doing great , mostly just use for screws like 4x35 and wooddrilling 20mm. it was insane cheap just 20 euro i wish they come back i would buy more of them. never seen them again while Duro stuff is still common in the Aldi.
40v has less current per cell but if you put them all together in series you can draw twice the power so still equivalent of 40 amps vs 25 amps
The big battery pack either delivers 40A at 18V (20V) or 20A at 36V (40V) continuously, while the small one is able to deliver 25A at 18V (20V), if we stick with the specifications of the LG cells and don't consider any heating issues. So theoretically the big pack could continuously provide around 720W and the small one 450W, within cell specifications.
Thank you for valued insight... Would somebody help me know could I somehow easily lower the voltage to use with 20 W equipment that operates between 12 to Max 18 V ? Thank you...
Take one of the cells out ?
Strange... the Dutch box says the 20/40 batterypack contains Samsung accucells! BTW...do you know if the accessories from any other multitool do fit the ferrex multitool?
I've got Samsung here in the UK too
Anyone successfully removed the cells from the plastic cage for replacement?
Clas Olsson are not doing well in the UK? Here in sweden they have a problem od serious over establishment since there is a mall every SqKm these days and they have to be in all of them.
Is Reading still part of the UK?
Yep - and still part of Europe :)
Cool, now i know what is inside these batteries, thanks for sharing :-)
Why are they saying that the batteries are 20V and 40V? Aren't the Li-ion 3.7V?
bought one of those and it died after one year without much use. i only ever used it maybe 5 times as a power screwdriver. from what i can see it was the circuit inside the battery that just died.
Its more likely that the cells overdischarged themselves from not being used to much, so much so that the BMS wont turn on or work. I had the exact same thing with mine. I just hat to charge the 18650s individually using a tp4056 and some crocodile clips and it brought it back to life. Try it. TP4056's are like 1 quid or less each.
@@ratgreen checked the cells and they were all over 4V so it should have worked, got fed up in the end and just bridged out the mosfet turning it on permanently, works now
It looks like DeWalt 18v battery you have to compare them together
I've a few ferrex tools and all have been great especially for their price and a 3 yr warranty! I also have both these batteries.
I used the smaller 20v on my kids electric 6v bike... power wheelies happened 😅 I'm wondering how I'd go about using the 40v battery on the bike in the same way to increase the power further as I've now fitted a 12v motor so its slower , any tips? cheers
What voltage are we expecting on the T pin?I have connected the ferrex air pump to a power supply set to 20V, the Led comes up briefly but the pump doesnt start, making me think that the microcontroller thinks the battery has a low voltage. I dont have this issue with the impact driver as it doesnt seems to make use of the T pin. I currently dont own the battery asa I use the Lidl one. anyhelp help much appreciated. thanks
Would these batteries fit Dewalt?
lol.. saw the FERREX branded lawn mower, and battery charger in the local Aldi here.. so i guess they sell them across europe?
I bought about 5 of the 40v ones after opening one and seeing that they were the green Samsung 25Rs. That's 100 watt-hours for 35 euro or €3.50 a cell which is quite reasonable. I have a 20v one also but haven't opened it yet (don't have a Torx screwdriver). The 40v ones sold out within a day (It seems others had the same idea as me) I was in 3 different Aldis in 3 different counties over the last week and they still have a stack of the 20v ones @ €20. Was thinking of trying to cut a deal with them, by buying 100 of them, if they would sell at 10-15 apiece.
clearz Google fogstar they sell those Samsung’s for 2.85 or if you want to spend £75, they drop to just £1.65 each!
I got all there tools apart from the lawnmower and numerous batteries they are very good so far I'm impressed I just hope they add to the range as I see they brought out a 18v ferrex combi drill which is not compatible with the 20v stuff naughty really also this drill has no hammer function. The aldi tools are better than lidl but lidl batterys seem better built and a nicer feel.
Now use Dewalt the power and tool balance is light years ahead
I had it in my head these were Samsung cells.... And sure enough, my boxes advertise Samsung cells inside. I'm sure they're the same spec, good to see they're sourcing from multiple brands to hopefully keep prices down!
Mines are Samsung as well.
Good source for some high discharge packs. Turns out at £3 a piece
hi great videos can you please tell me as i would like to use the batterys i have the 20/40 v batterys and would lke to use them camping or fishing and would like to power lights and items as you can buy a unit that is a usb charger that allows you to charge phones and such as i have low watt led lights which use a usb fitting what compaitble usb units do i buy to use with thease batterys i.e makita .. dewalt .
Cheers for this.. I've spotted various tools in Aldi lately, always wondered if any are up to snuff.. I'm thinking that if we add to the driver, the cost of battery which isn't included and the charger, it's surely heading towards £90 or so?
The Lidl ones ,Parkside is Tuff especially their 20V Team is nice
@@kitecattestecke2303 I hardly go to Lidl, even though Aldi is right next door!
I needed a cheapish cordless drill for light work around the house - actually drilling 2mm hole in 2mm stainless steel.. eventually went with something from Amazon: TACKLIFE PCD01B Cordless. It's much more powerful than I thought. £40 with battery and charger so, yeah.. can't really argue!
I've just bought the Ferrex impact driver and the 20/40 volt pack and charger for it. It's awesome for putting large wood screws into hardwood. I just wish I hadn't bought one of the Workzone drills a couple of months ago. That's two different battery packs to handle, plus another one for my old Bosch drill. Why can't they standardise battery packs? It's all down to money I guess.
Still, I might be tempted to buy the chainsaw!
I got the chainsaw it's fantastic used it to cut loads of old Decking up. I've now got everything but the lawnmower and am well chuffed
Thank you that saved me the job of stripping one down .
Great idea to color the datasheet
Could I somehow join 4 or 5 for an electric bike much cheaper than branded bike battery
I have a temporary setup with Parkside 20V 4Ah packs wired in series and parallel, that has worked very well used twice a week for a year. Think I just need to get a 40v charger and hard wire them together. But at the moment in charging separately.
Hi Julian, I have two 20/40v packs for a 40v (36v) project and wish to connect them 40v in parallel or 2x 20v in series but unsure of the connections B1-,B2- & B1+,B2+ . Not wishing to damage the batteries , did you work out how the connection could be made. Perhaps the tool makes a link 20/40v . I can only measure 20v(18v) at B1- & B1+ or am I just missing something. Great video must checkout more thanks.
Did you work this out? I'm having the same issue with a 40v diy go kart
I want to know to in the same situation 😑
She says that because no one wants to tell her she's out of a job.
It looks like these batteries do not have a cell balance function - the circuit on the backside of the 20V cct board monitors cell voltages and temperature but there is no balance facility. Somebody is gambling that the cells are so closely matched that the charge discharge cycle wear is even .... Three year warranty in a domestic situation ... that's likely a gamble worth taking - now where's that receipt?
TT: Tamper-resistant Torx. It is just a different name for Security Torx
Hi Julian. I learn much from your videos. The stuff on high power LEDs has helped me out slot. Thanks.
I bought the ferrex cordless angle grinder which is a good tool, however I need another 40 v battery pack.
They have discontinued these battery's do you know any ' hacks' to use an alternative????
Hi, I would like to use that battery pack to power a portable Bluetooth Amp.
Can you recommend a way to realize the low discharge protection?
I of course mean over-discharge protection. Using the 20v pack.
can anyone say what value in OHMI has T and (-)
100Ohm
@@TheATiPL A hundred? ? ? Kshishtof F found it to be 10.5K.
they look much better quality than the Lidl batteries you did recently.
Hello ! Why does my comment/question I posted yesterday on nov the first twentytwentyone disappear from your subject ? Tchotto. Thks
These tools are made by Walter a German company that also makes erbauer and numerous other tools. The charger could do with a fan but the chainsaw and impact driver and grinder are very good better than my 18v ryobi stuff
Don't Positec make these tools ??
@@anthonymclean9743 no Walter in Germany
@@rockyfish3115 So how come my ferrex drill says made in China by Positec ?
@@anthonymclean9743 maybe the drill is but the grinder and impact driver and multi tool etc are made by Walter gmbh
@@anthonymclean9743 what drill is that the 18v or 20v my 20v says gmbh
You can replace those cells with sony 3000mAh / 25A ...
Depending on the type of the BMS chip this may be quite a difficult task. In some of the Li-Ion drill batteries, if any of the cells is removed it is seen by the BMS as damaged and the whole thing is shut down permanently.
That's a lot of effort for not much gain. Just buy another pack.
what are the costs?
Great vid! I personally love Aldi and Lidl, most of their power tools too.
The higher "pulse current" discharge ratings you can find on vape sites and vape suppliers is pretty much bullshit, as there are no agreed upon pulse lengths, cooldown times or cutoff temperatures. They're basically just marketing blah blah. (And possibly somewhat dangerous if people treat a "45A" as continuous current.
I must visit the new Aldi in Baker Street High Wycombe the next time I am in the Desborough Road area, infamous for it's one and two star take aways, and nefarious activities.
Not too bad during daylight hours :)
I was rather excited to learn there was a town called Desborough. Then I talked to someone from the UK who described it in not so nice terms. Seems the road is simmilar. I guess my last name isn't going to get me the Royal treatment if I pay a visit. 😀
Tamperproof Torque size 10
But if they are selling the screwdrivers, it's not really tamperproof any more :)
these tools are amazing, but aldi has stopped selling the actual batteries just one year after production. wich makes them all useless......
Haha, what in the absolute heck? Clas Ohlson existed in the UK?!
Since this video I have looked in a 20v battery pack, from last year and now it has more circuitry, and this week I have another on order due 3rd April 22
Let’s see if more circuitry has been added again
TT should be for Tamper Torx (Torx with a hole) ! Thanks for the vid!
Or Torx Tamper ^^
or maybe _titillating torx?_ ;-P
Great vid helped me alot im having major issues with charging a 160 quid li-ion battery pack lol, I was going to split my cells and use the aldi active I have in the shed but i 'm struggling to find your active charger teardown you said you was going to do, did you do one? Thanks
Hummmm. So don’t use this with my ts100?????
Indefinitely seems like a long time to me.🤣
The Clas Olson in Reading is the one I go to! That's handy that that's the one staying open :O I go there when I go and stay with my friend.
I'm surprised those battery packs don't have any potting or solastic crap whatsoever :O I wonder what the rating on that fusible link is?
Can't wait for the charger video :D
It's a good-sized store - but parking at the Oracle is so expensive - we stayed over 4 hours and got stung £10 :(
@@JulianIlett Yeah it can really sting you 😓 My friend lives in Woodley so we get the bus into town on most occasions, often spending most of the day there, bopping about from shop to shop
@@JulianIlett how many volts has B + and B-, T and ID and how many ohms has B-, T and ID .Thanks you!!!
Yep, I'd be going after the 20/40 pack. If I was to Disassemble the pack for other use those cells would be way better for my uses. E-Bike Packs. LOL This Item does not seem to be Marketed here in the U.S.
Nice video
👍
❤️❤️❤️❤️
2x as heavy carrying it aound 2x longer charge ..may as well just buy 2 lower 20a ones same results lol still rip off imo. Thank you for sharing
ah you tease 8:55
Is it powered by a microferret running inside a wheel? If not return it, you’ve been scammed.
Oh the suspense... What are you doing to us?
How did he not shock himself? He was picking up those cell packs on the exposed connections, without even skipping a beat! A braver man than I....
20v DC wont shock you at all unless your soaking wet with salty water. its not AC voltage
just dont short them against any metal and you'll be fine.
you dont hear many stories of people getting shocked from 12v car batteries because human skin resistance is too high for any meaningful current to flow with low voltage DC
You want to worry about AC voltage. because it starts to get dangerous at 30v AC.
I like how you are touching bare contacts on a 40v dc device with 40amps current delivery .
40V is entirely safe unless you connect it to your internal organs :)
Or if you were possibly wearing a metal ring. It might get a bit warm if you accidentally shorted a couple of contacts.
True - jewelry and disrobed power tool batteries don't mix
The 40A current doesn't matter unless the resistance is low enough. (ie. 1 ohm)
But it would be interesting to test the battery pack like you do a 9V... put your tongue across the terminals. ;-P
@@ElmerFuddGun Well, if you have some moisture or sweat on your fingers, and you mange to place it across ground and + 40v you are likely to get a bad burn, even at just 40v, with 40a capability, only the internal/external resistance in your finger will be a limiting factor.
Thanks Julien, looks good value for the money.
:9
AvE you are not, but that's ok. Plagiarism is the most sincere form of flattery...
Keep your tool in a vice.
Keep your vice in a draw.
@@ajones8699 ... keep your draw in a bow.
UA-cam videos spanning 11 years, AvE 7 years, who is plagiarising who?
@@arfski I stand firm that he's not AvE.. on the rest... I was taking a calculated approach.. (lazy)
Thanks for the wake up
Boooo... leaving it with a cliff hanger ending. Thumbs down!! ;)