2008-2013 Toyota Highlander Passenger CV Axle Replacement (Camry, and Venza Possibly)
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- Huge shoutout to the members over at Toyotanation.com!
This video is a quick guide on how to replace the passenger side CV axle for Toyota cars, specifically the Highlander. I think the Camry, Venza, Highlander, and possibly the RAV4 share the same platform for this.
Symptoms / Differential Diagnosis:
The car (2011 Toyota Highlander V6 FWD with approximately 125k miles) was experiencing body shuddering/vibration at 40-45 mph ONLY on acceleration with no vibration at the steering wheel. Since there was no vibration specific to braking, I eliminated any brake problems. Additionally, since it only occurred on acceleration, I ruled out any tire balance problems. This lead me to drive line problems and I found help on Toyotanation.com. There was no play at 6/12 or 3/9 when the vehicle was on jackstands. There were no clunks or clicking noises either. Inspection under the vehicle revealed grease in a straight line from the inner CV axle joint, symptomatic of leaking grease from a spinning inner CV axle joint.
Replacement of the passenger CV axle / inner CV joint solved my problems.
Tools I bought:
Slide hammer extension: amzn.to/3I0Y6vV
Rental tools:
1. Tie rod end remover: amzn.to/3V4swjI OR www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/...
2. Axle puller adapter: amzn.to/3YnYKcm OR www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/...
3. Slide hammer: amzn.to/3FBxkr5 OR www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/...
Other tools needed (that I had)
1. Blue Loctite for reinstallation of nuts
2. 10mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 30mm socket (axle)
3. 21mm or 22mm for lug nuts
4. Impact wrench (recommended)
5. Torque wrench
6. Breaker bar if you don't have impact.
7. Ratching socket wrench
8. Corresponding extensions for wrenches
9. Hammer
10. Jack, jackstands
11. Long needle nose pliers
12. Anti-seize or grease
13. New cotter pin for tie rod end
14. Safety equipment (gloves, glasses, etc...)
15. Rags or paper towels
16. Brake part cleaner or degreaser
17. Drain pan
18. Transmission fluid in case any leaks
Reinstallation torque specs:
Bearing bracket bolt (on the passenger side only, the driver side does not have this) - 24 ft-lbs
Lower ball joint assembly (the bolt and 2 nuts) - 55 ft-lbs
Tie rod castle nut - 36 ft-lbs
Stabilizer link - 55 ft-lbs
Axle hub nut - 217 ft-lbs
Lug nuts - 76 ft-lbs
Excellent video. Even better than most of this type, as you went to the trouble to list links for speciality tools needed, general tools, parts, and expecially the torque values. Well done sir!
I know 0 about cars but the shop said i need my CV axle and motor mounts replaced. At least I can tell them just to do the axle first and understand a lot more.
When using one of those tie rod end separators, it's advisable to loosen the castle nut but leave it on the stud, in a position where it covers the cotter pin holes in the stud. The nut will support the threads and prevent the tool from collapsing the stud where it's weakened by the holes. If this happens, you'll be replacing the tie rod end AND getting a 4-wheel alignment.
You got lucky in that your tie rod end separated without having to apply a lot of force to the tool. They're often stuck a lot worse than yours was, particularly on high mileage vehicles.
thanks for the video. I have the same trouble now.
No problem. Hope your fix goes smoothly!
Very helpful sir...
Thank you for the info.
You're welcome!
If you have an AWD..... no bolt or clip! The axle will pop right out, only the circlip at the end of the joint holds it into the diff. If you have the tie rod end removed, you really don’t need to have the balljoint disconnected. Actually, it’ll be easier still connected because it’ll take some of the weight. Instead, just remove the two strut bolts and the whole hub will tip away from the car and the joint will come out. But, this method works.
Thank your for the tip and helping others!
I'm working on a 2008 highlander sport and I was trying to figure out why I didn't have the bolt or clip. I wasted so much time on it that I now have to wait til tomorrow to remove the cv axle and replace. It also looks like I need to replace the seal where the bearing goes into the transfer case. Thanks for your input! It helped a lot!
Thank you so much for this video!!! Tell me more about the C thing near the transmission?
Yep, it's a clip that prevents the axle from coming out the transmission housing.
good evening I replace a axle shaft.the moment I drove the car into workshop Any Effect
Thanks. You are a very good instructor on this subject. But please the name of the impact wrench and that of the compressor you used. Am in the market for one.
Thanks again.
JA.
Thank you. I am using a Earthquake 1/2" Composite impact wrench from Harbor Freight. The air compressor is an older 6 gallon oil-less pancake compressor, which provides just enough air for a couple of bolts / lug nuts at a time.
Good luck with your search!
Where did you get the part from ? Autozone
I need details about the steps you didn't show/describe in detail.
You left out the best part. How did you get the axle bearing back in?
Reverse order ;)
What's the part number for the cv axle! I need to replace my left one. LOVE this video
Not sure, but the left one is a little bit easier than this!
I am not sure which it is yet. I need to go to a parking lot and have someone listen
Why is the left one easier? Is it a different part? Does it not have the long rod in the tranny?
Thanks for the helpful video! Conservatively, how many hours did this job take? Local dealer just quoted me $500 for passenger side only......roughly $200 for parts/shop supplies and $300 for Labor. Maybe this is the magic of editing but the process looks fairly straightforward......and this novice is tempted to do it myself. Appreciate your feedback on length of time to complete and if this a suitable project for a novice. Seperating the old CV axle seemed a little tricky and not exactly confidence inspiring when you said "good luck with that".
Hmm, since I had another car to drive, I took my time figuring things out and going back and forth buying new things so it took me like a week (ordering stuff online), but for maybe a total of 2-3 hours. If I had to go back and do it again, it would probably take me 1 hour since I now know how to do everything - it is really straightforward like you thought.. The hardest part / the part that slowed me down the most was definitely figuring out the slide hammer thing (but once I figured it out, it took like 5 seconds), and also, putting the little C-clip back thingie on. Sorry about not being too inspiring - kind of a bad personality trait I have =\, but don't worry, I think if you use the slide hammer with extra leverage, it should come out really easily.
I paid $320 total (labor+parts) in May 2017 to replace passenger side. Find a local shop, and you will find similar prices.
Not a bad deal!
Please help. I changed cv axle both side with o'reilly parts. new tires, new brakes and new rotors. Vibration is still there 60mph +. and goes away when you let go the gas pedal. I changed axle three time in one year and the vibration is still there. Other parts in the front end are all ok by the mechanic.
Toque converter
So what was the fix? An alignment?
My inner cv boot is damaged can I just replace it?. The boot is located by the 14 mm clamp.
I am not sure, I think it depends on the extent of the damage. If you found the problem, you can try re-packing grease and see if that fixes the problem. If it does, then possibly just replacing the boot would be okay. However, the cost of an entire CV axle is not too expensive, so that's the route I went so I did not have to do the job twice.
@@diyjosh Your cost analysis must be based on buying aftermarket parts. OEM axles are expensive.
Cut it with a grinder, then remove the complete bearing carrier.
Any tips on getting the snap ring back on? I cannot get it!!!
persistence and long pliers!
Scott Kilmer says to stick the end in a tub of grease to hold it in place. He has a good cv video
Will the axle bearing cause vibration @ 70mph even in neutral?
Hmm good question. If I had to guess, no, because it only happened under acceleration and I think torque has to be applied.
@@diyjosh but isn’t the axle technically still in rotation
How long does it take to replace the axle?
Having the right tools and parts 1-3 hours , I have Toyota Highlander 2008 4WD 35 mm socket (axle) make sure use Deep socket , I tried 30 mm socket was too small.
Sarah Coburn
Give yourself 4-5 hours for rusted parts. Most time 2-3 hours is sufficient.
What about the loss of transmission fluid?
Yes, I just measured approximately how much I loss and the added into the transmission dipstick tube.
I didn’t lose any on the passenger side. I lost about 2 quarts on the driver side
About how much fluid came out?
I'm wondering the same thing... how much replacement fluid do I need on-hand?
@@Marc_B. The driver side I lost a couple of quarts the passenger side I didn’t lose anything
The best way to remove the passenger side CV axle on these cars is to use an air hammer on the intermediate bearing housing (with a sharp tip) while having an other person simultaneously pry against the axle. The force of the air hammer will "shock" the intermediate bearing loose and allow the bearing to exit the carrier housing.
Thank you for the tip!
There is no bearing housing on a AWD car if you watch the video the bearing is in the transmission it doesn't have a stand alone housing it's in the trans no way to get behind it fwd has a separate bracket that holds the bearing you can get to the backside these freeze in the transmission itself sir
How did you refill the fluid?
There is a transmission dipstick that looks like the oil dipstick and you can refill it through there.