Nice video guys, but the object of this mod is to reduce the slop in the hole with tight fitting steel inserts. When you use a step drill to "wallow out" the hole, this will result in a much looser fit than would have been achieved with a conventional 3/4" drill bit, and a drill press. It's important that the drilled hole is perfectly round, drilled concentrically to the original hole, and ideally only big enough for the steel inserts to be tightly fitted (or even pressed in). When the hole is drilled oversize as shown in your video, you're basically starting off with slop in the newly modified assembly, negating much of the intended improvement.
Thanks for the comment! You're completely correct regarding the tight fitting of the inserts... When I said "wallow out" I miss spoke, when the actual issue was the drill bit had slipped down inside the drill and not made it all the way through the hub. The bit being used was a 3/4" bit - I did not wallow out the entire hole, but I did rotate the bit a little to pick the burs off the inside of the hole as I poked myself a few times on the other hubs from sharp aluminum sticking off on the bottom side. The inserts did fit very snug, and most of them wouldn't seat all the way in until after we put the bolts / nuts on them and tightened them all the way down.
Absolutely , just rebuilt my "rear end" including upgraded hardware, blingy ZRP radius rads, plate, ST TLS, ect. Didn't need to know about Dozer's "rear end" problems. Hope you heal Dozer. Keep up the awesome videos guys.
Just installed this kit on my 2020 turbo RR Max, along with ST billet radius rods. The thickness of the rods (1.25) along with the TLS kit moving the rods rearward about 1/2 and inch made the radius rods hit the trailing arm at full extension. I had to notch the billet toe link rod to clear the trailing arm. PITA, but it's a rock solid setup now with the rods and TLS.
Just put the on this weekend. My car only jas 90p miles and I already started to see wear and tear. A great product and easy way to save money in the long run.
I have 300 miles on mine and it’s doing this. 2019 max... not happy. Spend 32k on a unit I expected much more. I understand the concept of the steel on steel, However, The steel sleeve is still supported by aluminum housing. I believe it’s a better concept but will also fail eventually. It’s not technically metal on metal. It’s the same as factory just beefier. It’s temporary due to the fact the hub is aluminum and weakened by drilling and lessening the aluminum wall. Time will tell
Gonna get mine ordered up with the discount code. Just a subtle point, single vs double shear really isn't related to the composition of your fastener or the fastening surface, but has to do with the "shear" planes applied to a fastener. Single shear applies a force perpendicular to a fastener and would break the fastener into two pieces. In the X3 hub, the shear plane applies across the fastener by the aluminium hub. With the inserts, a second plane of shear is created and the fastener would split into three pieces. And remember, we aren't altering the shear strength of the fastener itself but we are doubling the force required to reach that shear strength. If that makes sense.....
I did my best to explain that. I spent a good amount of time googling single vs double shear before this video and non of it is a simple concept to articulate in lamens
You guys are a hoot..... How many drinks did y'all get in while making this video. Y'all are just like my roommate and i when we work in the garage. Endless innuendos and good old shit talking.... Good stuff guys!!!!
Good video guys. This is definitely a smart, inexpensive fix to the rear wobble condition or repair for a worn hub. I won't argue the single or double shear aspect. Installing steel inserts with the shoulders, the shoulders being the added strength, by tightening against the inside and outside flats of the hub, you are making a pretty tough overall fix. I still believe they need to be checked for tightness from time to time though , just to be sure. The only thing I would suggest is to make sure the hole is drilled as straight as possible in the hub. Your video clearly shows at 14:18 that your that hole was not because the flats of the inserts do not sit flat on the hub. Did it tighten down good enough, probably but definitely something to watch closely while drilling. People really wonder why CanAm doesn't fix this issue? How much are hubs? Where do you buy them again? That answers that question. How many people actually tighten that bolt before each and ever ride? CanAm makes money off these failures!!
That lip was there because the insert wasn't all the way seated. The inserts were the exact size of the holes, so they were difficult to get in some times. We had to run the bolt through the inserts and tighten the nut down to "press" the insert all the way in.
I only did it on the bottom of the 1 hub lol... not the entire hole. The insert was going in. I think it was because the battery on my drill was beat and it wasn't drilling smooth. /shrug
Ordered the stock kits, friends did the same. Thanks for bringing this to our attention. Now if we all could solve the leaky water pump problem. New pumps don't cure it.
As a licensed ophthalmologist I do recommend wearing safety glasses while drilling any metal but for some reason you dont please call me and I'll gladly take the FB out of your eye :)
I just purchased a 2019 x3 Xrs and I just found this site and I subbed . Looks like I need to follow your advice and spend some more money at shock therapy. Hell I’ve already dropped 30k....
Great vid fellas.BUUUUUUT, as a machinist I was shocked and horrified with what I whitnessed today.😂 does Shock Therapy make a drill press for frick sake!? Kidding! Keep it up guys💪✌
Hey!, your exhaust tip is totally off centered too! 🤣. Mine is the same way. Went to put on the “just the tip” from Evo and it touched the plastic on tone side.
If I had a X3 I'd be ordering a kit. As far as Loc Tite where parts have a vibration to them only certain types will with stand that vibration so in those situations I was told to use RTV ( silicone ) there and on my lug studs and any other bolts and studs that take a beating this way it stay tight and where loc tite can and has broken loose the RTV doesn't release until you use a wrench to take it off. Just an old mechanics trick
@@ftorvideo I've exploded 3 cvt covers 4 belts worn out 3 carrier bearings and a set of big horns in 1500 miles I ride pretty similar to you gents know I've ordered the badass evolution belt and the razorback temp gauge through the sxsblog gents so after I get these installed I should have an almost bullet proof stock x3. But definitely enjoy the content and keep up the Tom foolery. From lapeer mi
We've greased ours twice this year. The first time it took 17 pumps. It took 12 pumps this time. It's a good idea to do it every few months depending on how much you drive
I got the front gusset from gieser for Christmas headed out to the garage now to put it on wish you guys woulda got your so I could watch the what not to do parts haha
I'm not sure off the top of my head. But the order is, set the bottom one to be the correct length (very important so you dont drop an axle when jumping). Then set the top one (camber is usually 1 degree negative). Then set the middle one (toe is usually a quarter inch in)
Here's a link to the TLS kit on their site my dude. And yea, their Radius Rods are still in development. We got a demo set to test out. shocktherapyst.com/accessories/?search_query=&page=2&limit=21&sort=featured&category=14&is_category_page=1
I didn’t notice it till I put new radius rods on. Thought I left something loose came back rechecked every thing got torque specs and all right. Any thoughts would help.
When do twirl the drill around at 12:41 doesn’t that defeat the purpose of you trying to get rid of the sloped our hole that created “the death wobble”?
It does not. The bit is a stepped bit, so with it all the way in and I lightly rotate it like that - it was only to get the aluminum burrs off the inside edge on the bottom. I poked myself several times with sharp aluminum splinters on the bottom. Ouch.
So you're saying is stay away from the X3, Pretty sad it already cost 20k Plus and you have to spend more money on upgrades for it to perform. Glad i ran across your channel.
DUDE! That bolt just came loose and broke on my definitely going to check it all the time now and save my money to fix what they should have just done right the first time IMO
That doesn’t fix the aluminum against steel problem if you’re inserting a steel insert. And how does that fix a damaged hub if you’re middle radius rod hole is not perfectly rounded out? Wouldn’t that through off the alignment of the step bit?
It does fix the problem of Steel on Aluminum, because the steel goes all the way through the hub - and is not moving. OEM radius rods rest directly on the hub, and the movement of the rod (up and down) can cause the steel from the rod to weaken the aluminum that it's resting on... which can cause the bolt on the other side to loosen. And when it loosens, the bolt starts to wallow out the bolt hole. The steel insert has a shoulder on it, which gives it increased support and prevents any of this moving. As well, the insert has a lip that holds the radius rod in place. Nothing moves, and the nut won't back off the other side. It fixes the damaged hub because you're drilling it out to another size. If the bolt hole is an egg shape from being wallowed out, and you run the step drill through it making it slightly larger... you can then insert the TLS kit into the newly formed hole, making it round again. You can get a TLS kit for any sized radius rod. Admittedly, it is possible to potentially run the drill through at an angle. It's important to do you best not to... but I guess it can happen. The good thing is, the inserts are steel, and they are going into an aluminum hub. So if you put the inserts in and the shoulder isn't flat (because the hole wasn't straight), you can put the bolt through it and the nut on the other side and tighten it down. This will press the insert all the way in and straighten it out.
Is this a problem with the 2019 X3 XMR Turbo R??? My radius rods are super beefy. I don't want to take it apart yet I only have 60 miles on it and they are all in sugar sand easy miles no mud no road work. I switched from razor to X3 about a month ago. Still have polaris just made the X3 my bike now kids have the other.....
@@ftorvideo good to know yea I opted for the platinum warranty as well cuz I not trying to drop a shit load mire money unless its some sweet upgrades. but with it snowing up here in Minnesota soo im desperately waiting for the sun to break it in
that big of an issue? which is better machine in your opinion. the canam or polaris. Also if I go used instead of new, how much risk am i taking with shit machines. thnaks
It's a big issue that's super easy to fix with this kit. I know dealers that are installing this kit on brand new machines before they even sell them. It makes the rear hubs rock solid! In my personal opinion? I'd choose the X3. Both are stout machines that are super capable... but the X3 just has my heart. Personally, I feel they look nicer - and respond to mods better. The motors respond to tunes better, the suspension responds to tunes better. That being said, you really can't go wrong with either one. These things are like sports cars. You're not going to buy a used M3 or Porsche and not expect it to have been beat on. Just give everything a good look over if you buy used. Make sure all the bolts are tight. Make sure there's no signs of it being rolled. They're pretty durable so as long as they weren't trashed you'd probably be ok.
“Hey Dozer!? Ya... What do u think about tight rear ends?!” Who doesn’t like a tight rear end!” Lmao nobody stop in a hurry u will get ass packed. Merry Christmas happy new year u filthy animal 😂👍🏻👌🏻🍻
So you basically widen the steel bolt with more steel, which is still fighting the aluminum hub, only you made the hole bigger effectively making the amount of aluminum around the steel much less, thus more soft and probable to fail.... Sounds like the only true fix is the steel hubs. Or just changing your stock hubs more often, but that sucks... BRP should’ve fixed this by now
The steel inserts go all the way through the hub, they do not sit on top of the hub like the stock OEM radius rod / brackets. As well, the inserts fit inside the radius rod. This is the part which removes the shear, completely. The most complete solution is indeed the hubs, but these inserts will absolutely resolve / repair this problem.
Full Throttle Off Road i might be missing something guys, but the steel bolt applies its force to the aluminum, steel against aluminum bad, so you add the steel inserts, this means the bolt will apply its forces to the inserts, steel against steel, correct? But the inserts will apply the same force to the aluminum again, still steel against aluminum.. sounds like you end up with the same problem but with less aluminum
You're pretty close. If you picture the way it is assembled from OEM, the steel radius rod is mounted directly to the aluminum hub. This is soft, and can start to move.. which causes the bolt to loosen. Once loosened, the bolt starts to apply side pressure against the aluminum hub... causing the hole to get bigger - an death wobble sets in. The insert is steel, and goes all the way through. You're correct when saying the bolt's clamping force is now on the steel, this eliminates the shear. The "shoulder" on the insert expands the overall strength of the assembly. So instead of applying force to the side of the hole where it is the weakest, the shoulder of the insert now applies the force to the top of the hole, as well as the edge. Effectively doubling the strength. So now we've eliminated the sheer, as well as more effectively distributed the force. You are indeed correct - it is a poor design from OEM. Which is why manufacturers are trying to find a way to prolong the life of your hubs. This is a very good option.
Thanks for the tip! But on the same note that totally the incorrect way to drill out that aluminum housing in so many ways! If you are going to instruct people you really should do it correctly! (Like know what the hell you're doing!)
Simple. Cost effective. Easy to use. Effective. Genius!
Them hubs still tight 2 years later...?
Sure are!
Nice video guys, but the object of this mod is to reduce the slop in the hole with tight fitting steel inserts. When you use a step drill to "wallow out" the hole, this will result in a much looser fit than would have been achieved with a conventional 3/4" drill bit, and a drill press. It's important that the drilled hole is perfectly round, drilled concentrically to the original hole, and ideally only big enough for the steel inserts to be tightly fitted (or even pressed in). When the hole is drilled oversize as shown in your video, you're basically starting off with slop in the newly modified assembly, negating much of the intended improvement.
Thanks for the comment! You're completely correct regarding the tight fitting of the inserts... When I said "wallow out" I miss spoke, when the actual issue was the drill bit had slipped down inside the drill and not made it all the way through the hub. The bit being used was a 3/4" bit - I did not wallow out the entire hole, but I did rotate the bit a little to pick the burs off the inside of the hole as I poked myself a few times on the other hubs from sharp aluminum sticking off on the bottom side. The inserts did fit very snug, and most of them wouldn't seat all the way in until after we put the bolts / nuts on them and tightened them all the way down.
Still single shear, but very nicely reinforced single shear that spreads the force over a larger area.
Yes sir!
Absolutely , just rebuilt my "rear end" including upgraded hardware, blingy ZRP radius rads, plate, ST TLS, ect. Didn't need to know about Dozer's "rear end" problems. Hope you heal Dozer. Keep up the awesome videos guys.
Just installed this kit on my 2020 turbo RR Max, along with ST billet radius rods. The thickness of the rods (1.25) along with the TLS kit moving the rods rearward about 1/2 and inch made the radius rods hit the trailing arm at full extension. I had to notch the billet toe link rod to clear the trailing arm. PITA, but it's a rock solid setup now with the rods and TLS.
Just put the on this weekend. My car only jas 90p miles and I already started to see wear and tear. A great product and easy way to save money in the long run.
I have 300 miles on mine and it’s doing this. 2019 max... not happy. Spend 32k on a unit I expected much more. I understand the concept of the steel on steel, However, The steel sleeve is still supported by aluminum housing. I believe it’s a better concept but will also fail eventually. It’s not technically metal on metal. It’s the same as factory just beefier. It’s temporary due to the fact the hub is aluminum and weakened by drilling and lessening the aluminum wall. Time will tell
Gonna get mine ordered up with the discount code. Just a subtle point, single vs double shear really isn't related to the composition of your fastener or the fastening surface, but has to do with the "shear" planes applied to a fastener. Single shear applies a force perpendicular to a fastener and would break the fastener into two pieces. In the X3 hub, the shear plane applies across the fastener by the aluminium hub. With the inserts, a second plane of shear is created and the fastener would split into three pieces. And remember, we aren't altering the shear strength of the fastener itself but we are doubling the force required to reach that shear strength. If that makes sense.....
I did my best to explain that. I spent a good amount of time googling single vs double shear before this video and non of it is a simple concept to articulate in lamens
@@ftorvideo Yep. totally agree Aaron. Diagrams are a lot easier to understand but mess up sweet sweet videos!
You guys are a hoot..... How many drinks did y'all get in while making this video. Y'all are just like my roommate and i when we work in the garage. Endless innuendos and good old shit talking.... Good stuff guys!!!!
That's the only way to work on a project! I'm not sure how many wobblypops we had - enough lol. Thanks for the support brother!
I thought Dodge trucks were the only ones that have death wobble. You learn something every day!
I drive a duramax. So this comment gets a like
Full Throttle Off Road
And I drive a Cummins. I’ve lucked out I’ve never had it but I’ve heard some horror stories hahaha
As a owner of a can am and a 18 ram 2500 owner. No offense it taken lol
Good video guys. This is definitely a smart, inexpensive fix to the rear wobble condition or repair for a worn hub.
I won't argue the single or double shear aspect. Installing steel inserts with the shoulders, the shoulders being
the added strength, by tightening against the inside and outside flats of the hub, you are making a pretty tough
overall fix. I still believe they need to be checked for tightness from time to time though , just to be sure.
The only thing I would suggest is to make sure the hole is drilled as straight as possible in the hub.
Your video clearly shows at 14:18 that your that hole was not because the flats of the inserts do not sit flat on the hub.
Did it tighten down good enough, probably but definitely something to watch closely while drilling.
People really wonder why CanAm doesn't fix this issue? How much are hubs? Where do you buy them again?
That answers that question. How many people actually tighten that bolt before each and ever ride?
CanAm makes money off these failures!!
That lip was there because the insert wasn't all the way seated. The inserts were the exact size of the holes, so they were difficult to get in some times. We had to run the bolt through the inserts and tighten the nut down to "press" the insert all the way in.
You just did a death wobble with that drill! 😲
WPM BT nice I was kinda think in the same
But did you die?
I thought the whole purpose was to keep the hole from egg shaping then you drilled it that way. And no I didnt die...I drill straight lol
I only did it on the bottom of the 1 hub lol... not the entire hole. The insert was going in. I think it was because the battery on my drill was beat and it wasn't drilling smooth. /shrug
Ordered the stock kits, friends did the same. Thanks for bringing this to our attention.
Now if we all could solve the leaky water pump problem. New pumps don't cure it.
Hell yes! Did you use our discount code?
@@ftorvideo Couldn't find it. But we did order shirts from you.
Even better! My man! Thank you for the support brotherman
Hope you guys are still doing good. Miss you guys. Stay safe.
Already got vacation plans to get Mitch and the guys to bulletproof my new 2021 Max ❤️👍
As a licensed ophthalmologist I do recommend wearing safety glasses while drilling any metal but for some reason you dont please call me and I'll gladly take the FB out of your eye :)
HAH!! There was an entire joke string in the video (it didnt make the cut) about not having safety glasses on. I'll give you a shout lol
I just purchased a 2019 x3 Xrs and I just found this site and I subbed . Looks like I need to follow your advice and spend some more money at shock therapy. Hell I’ve already dropped 30k....
Welcome to the offroad army brotherman! Thanks for the sub!
Oh, its just startin for ya at 30k! Wait for all the accessories to start rollin in....
I just bought this the other day. Waiting for it to get here is all
Great vid fellas.BUUUUUUT, as a machinist I was shocked and horrified with what I whitnessed today.😂 does Shock Therapy make a drill press for frick sake!? Kidding! Keep it up guys💪✌
Bay Bee Drillll doo doo doo dooo
I kinda moved towards the fetal position when he ran that step bit back and forth in the hub, but then I remembered it’s just a Can-Am...lol J/K
Iam pretty sure there was a lot of cervezas/ crown royal being put down during this job!😜 ( man my arms look good there)lmao
Man this was hard to watch. A machine shop would of charged 30 bucks to put it on a mill and drill that hole and ream it.
@Klaus Van Heusen yeah man I caught that too
Hey!, your exhaust tip is totally off centered too! 🤣. Mine is the same way. Went to put on the “just the tip” from Evo and it touched the plastic on tone side.
Good video. You sold me. I just ordered up the kit with your discount code. Thanks. See ya, Doug.
Outstanding! It's really exciting to us when we can help our viewers out
Awesome man I will get mine is the rear end lol from shock therapy as well because I want that set up
Absolutely! Such a simple fix for a huge problem
If I had a X3 I'd be ordering a kit. As far as Loc Tite where parts have a vibration to them only certain types will with stand that vibration so in those situations I was told to use RTV ( silicone ) there and on my lug studs and any other bolts and studs that take a beating this way it stay tight and where loc tite can and has broken loose the RTV doesn't release until you use a wrench to take it off. Just an old mechanics trick
I’m interested in what’s in the Crockpot 🤓
That there good sir was some Chili! It was quite good
@@ftorvideo With a few aluminum shavings, so that's your secret!
One of your best videos!
Thank you brotherman!
I think I know what I’m gonna do to my 2019 thanks for the video
Yes! Fix it before it becomes an issue! Smart
Full Throttle Off Road I have to get a price on the rides and everything
I believe I just started experiencing this problem thought it was the radius rods but hoping this is the solution... thanks guys
Check the nut on the back of the toe link bolt. If it's loose, yea... bad time! This will solve it!
@@ftorvideo nice thanks for the heads up
@@ftorvideo I've exploded 3 cvt covers 4 belts worn out 3 carrier bearings and a set of big horns in 1500 miles I ride pretty similar to you gents know I've ordered the badass evolution belt and the razorback temp gauge through the sxsblog gents so after I get these installed I should have an almost bullet proof stock x3. But definitely enjoy the content and keep up the Tom foolery. From lapeer mi
Noticed that you were winding up string. Mind commenting on what you were using that for?
An alignment. Running string around the center of the wheels all the way around the unit makes it easy to see and measure alignment adjustments.
@@ftorvideo got a video on this?
Nice. Now when can we get ourselves some radius rods from Shock therapy?
Any day! They are stout! Keep an eye out, and don't forget to use our discount code when you pull the trigger
My only worry is when you drill out the hole to make it bigger it only leaves a thin piece of aluminum around the hole.
Good video guys like the content can’t wait to see what 2019 is gonna bring!
It's going to bring a lot of crazy stuff... some of it's already on the way ;)
Hell ya!! Can’t wait to see
Is that PBR in the can ? Official drink of BRP !
When operating or working on the CanAm... it's PBR for me!
Good video I'll have to check mine now, how often do y'all grease your wheel bearings?
We've greased ours twice this year. The first time it took 17 pumps. It took 12 pumps this time. It's a good idea to do it every few months depending on how much you drive
Appreciate the video. Using a drill bit instead of a step drill would have improved your results.
Some talk the coolant tank lines will easily break at the tank. Could you guys be so cool as to check out a solution for that?
The fact that your hub and spindle came apart so easily isn't necessarily a good thing
very informative content guys , keep em coming ~!!! thank you
Thank you for the comment my dude!
I got the front gusset from gieser for Christmas headed out to the garage now to put it on wish you guys woulda got your so I could watch the what not to do parts haha
Hah!! We're installing ours this weekend!
Headed to horse falls and Winchester bay this weekend so gotta get mine done !!!
They are adjustable. Would you know or know where to get spec on the adjustments it should be
I'm not sure off the top of my head. But the order is, set the bottom one to be the correct length (very important so you dont drop an axle when jumping). Then set the top one (camber is usually 1 degree negative). Then set the middle one (toe is usually a quarter inch in)
Great video guys 🤯 🙃😎😎 😎
Thank you my friend!
Shock Therapy sells radius rods? I don't see them anywhere on their site.
Keep an eye out! They'll be releasing them shortly!
They need to keep more of the toe links in stock, was going to order oem size and they are on backorder 😞
I've got over 7 thousand miles on mine with no issues. I'm in Arizona and I thrash my X3. We do 100+ mile rides all the time. Maybe i just got lucky.
Cheers to that brother 🍻
Can’t find these parts/inserts anywhere and shock therapy doesn’t have the radius rods either. ;(
Here's a link to the TLS kit on their site my dude. And yea, their Radius Rods are still in development. We got a demo set to test out.
shocktherapyst.com/accessories/?search_query=&page=2&limit=21&sort=featured&category=14&is_category_page=1
I didn’t notice it till I put new radius rods on. Thought I left something loose came back rechecked every thing got torque specs and all right. Any thoughts would help.
Are the radius rods adjustable? Perhaps your rear alignment is off?
Hey buds, take it easy on the UPSERS lol we delivered 800 million packages the week before Christmas 😁😜
But not mine! 🤣
Very good point lol
When do twirl the drill around at 12:41 doesn’t that defeat the purpose of you trying to get rid of the sloped our hole that created “the death wobble”?
It does not. The bit is a stepped bit, so with it all the way in and I lightly rotate it like that - it was only to get the aluminum burrs off the inside edge on the bottom. I poked myself several times with sharp aluminum splinters on the bottom. Ouch.
A nice new Milwaukee needs to be in your future! No more default
I was a little disappointed in the dewalt
So you're saying is stay away from the X3, Pretty sad it already cost 20k Plus and you have to spend more money on upgrades for it to perform. Glad i ran across your channel.
Every unit has aftermarket parts to strengthen OEM weak spots. Happy you found our channel too!
@@ftorvideo , Understandably so, I just want to know how much it's going to cost me in heart ache! Lol love yalls channel!
DUDE! That bolt just came loose and broke on my definitely going to check it all the time now and save my money to fix what they should have just done right the first time IMO
For sure man... glad you found it before it came out!
It came out when I was going 50 haha! I ended up shoving a stick in there to get home!
Dang! You need this fix indeed
Oh totally! Shock therapy makes good stuff wish I could afford it right now!
I fill this problem when I let off the gas after running pretty good down the road? Would this be the fix for that?
What I would do is check the nut on the back of the toe link bolt. If it's loose, you probably have this issue.
Great info Aaron!!!
You're up early! Or late?
@@ftorvideo BOTH! Haha 😁 We were on the road heading to Glamis - you know how that goes!!! Happy almost New Year!!! 😊🎉
What's the discount code again I couldn't understand it? Just bought an x3...subbed!!
We sell it with free shipping on our website at this point.
That doesn’t fix the aluminum against steel problem if you’re inserting a steel insert. And how does that fix a damaged hub if you’re middle radius rod hole is not perfectly rounded out? Wouldn’t that through off the alignment of the step bit?
It does fix the problem of Steel on Aluminum, because the steel goes all the way through the hub - and is not moving. OEM radius rods rest directly on the hub, and the movement of the rod (up and down) can cause the steel from the rod to weaken the aluminum that it's resting on... which can cause the bolt on the other side to loosen. And when it loosens, the bolt starts to wallow out the bolt hole. The steel insert has a shoulder on it, which gives it increased support and prevents any of this moving. As well, the insert has a lip that holds the radius rod in place. Nothing moves, and the nut won't back off the other side.
It fixes the damaged hub because you're drilling it out to another size. If the bolt hole is an egg shape from being wallowed out, and you run the step drill through it making it slightly larger... you can then insert the TLS kit into the newly formed hole, making it round again. You can get a TLS kit for any sized radius rod.
Admittedly, it is possible to potentially run the drill through at an angle. It's important to do you best not to... but I guess it can happen. The good thing is, the inserts are steel, and they are going into an aluminum hub. So if you put the inserts in and the shoulder isn't flat (because the hole wasn't straight), you can put the bolt through it and the nut on the other side and tighten it down. This will press the insert all the way in and straighten it out.
Going to order, what’s the discount code?
Throttletherapy19
This is how aircraft flight surface fittings are setup.
Nice!! Its ready for flight!
And whats up with the Crock Pot ??? What's cooking ??? Do the aluminum shavings add to the flavor ???
With this product does that mean you have to use Shock Therapy's Radius Rods?
No sir! They make them for stock rods and they work great!
Looks like this needs to be a recall if this is a issues
My first hub was warrantied... buuuut yea
Is this a problem with the 2019 X3 XMR Turbo R??? My radius rods are super beefy. I don't want to take it apart yet I only have 60 miles on it and they are all in sugar sand easy miles no mud no road work. I switched from razor to X3 about a month ago. Still have polaris just made the X3 my bike now kids have the other.....
I can't say for sure, but I believe the hubs are the same.
On my to do list👌🏻
👌🤙
your rear end looks even tighter than beast mode. 🤤
😲
Did he have a FUT hair transplant done??
just bought a 2019 maverick x3 now im a little more prepared do u think warranty covers stuff like this??? new sub here
Warranty covered mine the first time. But since we installed these, we haven't had any problems. Thanks for the sub too!!
@@ftorvideo good to know yea I opted for the platinum warranty as well cuz I not trying to drop a shit load mire money unless its some sweet upgrades. but with it snowing up here in Minnesota soo im desperately waiting for the sun to break it in
Time for some Milwaukee!!!
Bay Bee Drill Do Do Do Doooo
Lol
Nevermind the metal shavings that are about to fly into my eye!
Yes. If you have safety glasses please use them lolol
You guys need a “Doug” in the shop.
Not having a clue of what we're doing is more exciting lol... Unless you know someone that is interested in doing all our wrenching? 🤣
Good video
Thanks brother!!
does the 2019 x3 do this? I am buying either 4 of these or 4 rzrs
Four!!! Dang! Lol... As far as I know, the hub assembly is the same. I'd get the X3s and put this baby in there and rip
that big of an issue? which is better machine in your opinion. the canam or polaris.
Also if I go used instead of new, how much risk am i taking with shit machines.
thnaks
It's a big issue that's super easy to fix with this kit. I know dealers that are installing this kit on brand new machines before they even sell them. It makes the rear hubs rock solid! In my personal opinion? I'd choose the X3. Both are stout machines that are super capable... but the X3 just has my heart. Personally, I feel they look nicer - and respond to mods better. The motors respond to tunes better, the suspension responds to tunes better. That being said, you really can't go wrong with either one.
These things are like sports cars. You're not going to buy a used M3 or Porsche and not expect it to have been beat on. Just give everything a good look over if you buy used. Make sure all the bolts are tight. Make sure there's no signs of it being rolled. They're pretty durable so as long as they weren't trashed you'd probably be ok.
Nice
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“Hey Dozer!? Ya... What do u think about tight rear ends?!” Who doesn’t like a tight rear end!” Lmao nobody stop in a hurry u will get ass packed. Merry Christmas happy new year u filthy animal 😂👍🏻👌🏻🍻
Merry Christmas!! I hope you have a sloppy but wonderful New Year! Thanks for the comment my friend!
Full Throttle Off Road thank you and absolutely no problem
Nice info but that was the worst use of a drill I've ever seen haha
Hi thank you
Yes sir
TLS 12mm, 5/8, 3/4, size
No comment from from Keith at 15:26? Lol
🤣
So you basically widen the steel bolt with more steel, which is still fighting the aluminum hub, only you made the hole bigger effectively making the amount of aluminum around the steel much less, thus more soft and probable to fail.... Sounds like the only true fix is the steel hubs. Or just changing your stock hubs more often, but that sucks... BRP should’ve fixed this by now
The steel inserts go all the way through the hub, they do not sit on top of the hub like the stock OEM radius rod / brackets. As well, the inserts fit inside the radius rod. This is the part which removes the shear, completely. The most complete solution is indeed the hubs, but these inserts will absolutely resolve / repair this problem.
Full Throttle Off Road i might be missing something guys, but the steel bolt applies its force to the aluminum, steel against aluminum bad, so you add the steel inserts, this means the bolt will apply its forces to the inserts, steel against steel, correct? But the inserts will apply the same force to the aluminum again, still steel against aluminum.. sounds like you end up with the same problem but with less aluminum
You're pretty close. If you picture the way it is assembled from OEM, the steel radius rod is mounted directly to the aluminum hub. This is soft, and can start to move.. which causes the bolt to loosen. Once loosened, the bolt starts to apply side pressure against the aluminum hub... causing the hole to get bigger - an death wobble sets in. The insert is steel, and goes all the way through. You're correct when saying the bolt's clamping force is now on the steel, this eliminates the shear. The "shoulder" on the insert expands the overall strength of the assembly. So instead of applying force to the side of the hole where it is the weakest, the shoulder of the insert now applies the force to the top of the hole, as well as the edge. Effectively doubling the strength. So now we've eliminated the sheer, as well as more effectively distributed the force.
You are indeed correct - it is a poor design from OEM. Which is why manufacturers are trying to find a way to prolong the life of your hubs. This is a very good option.
Full Throttle Off Road ok, wasn’t considering the inserts has shoulders to distribute this force, makes sense. Thanks for taking the time!!
Anything we can do to help!
I prefer death wobble number 1.
It'll getcha man... Death wobble can bite you when you least expect it
That's called the child support wobble.
☝️🤣
Baby Shark doo do doo
Omg it gets in your head like a virus
ua-cam.com/video/HwEBPt7d02g/v-deo.html
What a shame you hafta do this to the hubs and reinforce the font end.
unibit works way better on low sped
Hehe... yea, we've recently realized theres a lot of things we could have done better lol... ah well
Lmfao guys great video awesome part
Your wobbling out that hole just defeated the whole purpose of mod! It should be an interference fit (tight fit). That was a hack job
Hope your not eating whatever is in the crock pot with all those aluminum shavings that are in it now!
Thanks for the tip! But on the same note that totally the incorrect way to drill out that aluminum housing in so many ways! If you are going to instruct people you really should do it correctly! (Like know what the hell you're doing!)
17:21 no one said no homo.....interesting lol
MmmmmYeess how interesting
@@ftorvideo lmao
how to destroy your hub by not using a drill press.....take one.
Just look at it 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I watched the end of this video like 10 times already lol... we're so dumb. It's great lol
@@ftorvideo I laughed so hard 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 😎 😎
We need to start including more stuff like that in our videos lol
Wear your safety glasses dude!!!
Yea... I thought about that lol...
All you did was prolong the inevitable.... it will still oval out eventually.
sausage arms,,,lol
So meaty! 😍
Wrong tool for the job
Everything, and I mean everything for these cars are ridiculously over priced.
Perhaps... They do cost as much as a mid tier car
@@ftorvideo Whomever is selling that thing for $100, should be ashamed of themselves. So, why do I want one? Dagnabbit!!
The same group of people that sell brake pads at $180 for a set! These are priced exactly the same price as the assault bracket
Shoot... I thought they are priced pretty decently lol
UPS sucks, they are late for so many people. FedEx is the way to go
TAKING TOOLS !!! TIME WASTER
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