Today, I have upgraded the mainboard to the BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 drivers from the stock Anet A8 board. I am absolutely blown away by how much quieter my printer is. Before, I could hear the printer all the way upstairs, now i can barely hear it sitting 2 feet from it. And it runs so smooth now....I like it! Glad I seen your video on the 2209's. Thanks Chris!!
Timing is everything... I bought a set of Bigtreetech parts for my new CoreXY printer which include the SKR 1.3, 2209's and the TFT35 V3.0 controller a while back but have not had the time/energy to figure out how they fit together. Brother Chris to the rescue as he covered it all in his usual thorough manner. Well done and thank you, Chris.
2209's are in the mail on their way to me now. I picked them over the 2208 because of the current limit (2A vs 1.4A) so I can stick those beefy StepperOnline guys on my printer and chug the bed around at ludicrous speed. Great vid, your channel is really thorough and you have a great way of explaining these things. Keep it up!
mate, this is exactly all the information I was searching for, when I had to order a new board two weeks ago. For now I am still happy with the 2208‘s, but you made me curious about the 2209s next time. Can‘t believe this video just hit 1.000 views, almost every maker must watch this! Thank you!
Good job wrangling/reading the matrix of features, I saw the smile at "if you're not confused now" and immediately wondered how many takes that had taken ;)
Hey Chris. I installed my BTT TMC 2209's yesterday. Finally got a chance to test them today when the grandchildren went home. Holy hell my steppers are quiet! Now I know what I was missing when running my A4988's. Just got to re-build my X axis to replace a badly flat spotted mini V wheel and my AM8 will be back in business (albeit much quieter). I have a BTT Mini UPS on the way now too, to hopefully sort out power outages, so Marlin will resume better. Greetings from Wales 😀
Chris Thank you for the very informative videos. With your help I was able to get my TMC2209 and SKR 1.4T up and running. As a note, STEALTHCHOP for E & Z I did comment out. STEALTHCHOP for my BMG style extruder seemed to be creating noise with the stepper during retracts. Geoff
Thanks Chris. I watched other videos on this but only yours got me up and running. Thanks as well to Tobias below. I will also look forward to the 1.4 Turbo and 2209 video as that is the current setup i'm working on.
Thanks Chris. Great and informative as usual. My 2209s are in the mail so this is my goto install video. I would love to see the use of stall guard 2 on z as a probe. Sounds kool.
Myyyy herooo, looking for a tutorial for 2 weeks and it is almost imposible to find information. I even thought asking you to make a tutorial ajjajajaja thanksssssss
I second that. I have a SKR 1.4 Turbo and the TMC2209-1.2 lying around here, and I just can't get the drivers to run in UART mode. Pronterface always gives me "Error: All LOW" on m122. Hence the interest ;)
I have it working now for a great deal. I have a creality CR-10S and have now installed the SKR 1.4 Turbo board with TMC2209-1.2 drivers in UART mode. I also activated sensorless homing. I'm able to move all axes in both directions, but I can't get my ABL probe (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V - inductive NPN) to work for doing the Z-homing. It starts the Z-home procedure and is going down, but it won't stop when the probe is triggered. M119 says that the probe is triggered or open, depending on the state, but whatever I change in Marlin it won't stop and will crash into the plate. By the way, I'm using the Marlin 2.1.x development version. Any ideas?
Great video thanks. Maybe you can help with this. I am building a printer and the hot end / carriage will travel past the edge of the bed before it will hit the end of travel in the x and y axis. Will I need to change any other setting for homing?
Not actually sure at the moment. I’m in the process of building a printer and I made the frame large enough for a 300mm heat bed but right now I’m putting a smaller 210 (give or take) bed on it. It appears that the carriage will be able to travel to the left (view from the front) farther off the bed area then just to the edge. So I was wondering how one would adjust for the extra distance before the x carriage hit the frame hard stop for homing. Thx
@@dougw9224 Yes, so you will set the X/Y min to a negative number. 0,0 would be the corner of the bed. Anything more than that toward the endstop would be the negative setting.
@@ChrisRiley i have just managed to get mine working SKR 1.4 Turbo, 2209s uart mode and sensorless homing but i did have to drop sensitivity down to 110. I'm also using a trulev probe and i did have to cut the diag pin off the Z axis. Im using the Seckit SK-GO :)
I've tried this on the SKR 1.4 Turbo and have done plenty of research (not enough apparently), read through the manuals on github and tried many things. I have even gotten the SKR 1.3 and turned sensorless homing up to 255 (also tried 1) and still does nothing (as the motor will not stop). Right now I pulled the board, motor, and wired up a power supply for easy access. I did notice that I get 0xC0:08:00:00 when using M122 but says all testing is OK. Trying on a P802M because board died but have a Ender 5 Plus on the way.
@@ChrisRiley Got everything you have in video and followed video several times. That is Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 with TMC2209 also tried SKR 1.4 turbo as well. I am new to 3D printing however but have learned a lot in past month especially trying to figure this out.
Not all TMC2209 driver boards are created equal, this I have learned today. Your issue may be with the driver board itself as it may not have the DIAG pin installed in the correct location for the SKR 1.4 Turbo. Easy way to know would be to do a pin count on the bottom of the TMC2209. If you have 17 pins, then i'm 99.9% sure that the DIAG pin is not connected to the SKR 1.4 Turbo mainboard as that pin location is one spot over. No DIAG connection means no Stallguard and no Stallguard means no Sensorless homing. My setup is the SKR 1.4 Turbo with Eryone TMC2209 drivers. The only solution that I can see to correct this is to solder a jumper wire on the bottom of the board at the DIAG location and run it to the DIAG header pin on the TMC2209.....or get different TMC2209's that actually work with the board. Hope this helps ya.
Hi Chris, can you give me a little heads up on changing voltages on sensor less homing? I have both X & y working on a Hyper cube with 2209s on a SKR v1.4. Each axis homes really well individually but when homing all the Y homing clunks a little, it does not crash I cannot resolve with the sensitivity, seems much higher on the V1.4 turbo board at around 130. Clearly something to do with the Core XY set up but I have not figured out yet. I thought reducing voltages on homing might be the way. I have tried dual physical stops so the carriage homes evenly on both sides but this also does not make any difference. Thanks again Boothy
Hi Chris, I have just adjusted the voltages, it was staring me in the face, apologies for the request. I have found a sweet balance of 175 for the X current home and 150 for the Y current home. However on initial homing after switching on the Y axis still clunks a little but thereafter on repeat it is fine. I will now start looking at the driver current themselves. I did not realise that both sensor less homing sensitivity and the Driver currents can be individually changed directly from the printer on screen menu in Marlin from the config , advanced settings, TMC drivers menu, which is so much easier for testing. Best Boothy
This is a different kind of article than I was looking for. That's OK, it was easy enough: replace my A8988s with TCM2209s, putting the pot's toward the RAMPS power terminals, reverse the stepper connectors, and set Vref to about .8 volts. The new drivers quieted my Makerfarm Pegasus effectively, so I'm satisfied. Have fun, those of your making the more elaborate upgrade!
I do not quite understand why you cannot use both DIAG pin and endstop. If I understand correctly DIAG would pull down only in case that something happened and can be configured not to pull at all through UART. Then they can coexist with endstop on the same pin so you do not have to cut it it. Issue could be if endstop pulls up and DIAG would try to pull down, then you would burn DIAG output, but that can be avoided if you use proper endstop. Am I missing something?
I think there is a combination that we could come up with to make this work. You can also just move the pins around in the code to do the same. BTT tells you to clip them, that's why I showed this method.
@@ChrisRiley Actually I looked into TMC datasheet and also installed them on SKR and unfortunately they keed diag pin low and only when stallguard happens it releases them (or pull up) for short time so looks like it is problematic to share them with endstop. I do not realy like idea of cutting pins on the driver so I think it was terrible idea to remove those jumpers :( I would better not have double connectors for Z steppers or at least they could provide solder pads on the board
Can you use something like BL touch and still enable sensorless homing for Z axis as a precaution? As i hate when the hotends slams to my bend... it once bent the heatguard.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks. Ill look into it when i get my new board installed. Would be really good to have a failsafe, double z motors have a lot of power to bend stuff.
HI how do I install these on a SKR PRO? also how do I set an SKR pro to now run my ender 5 as when I press home it just shoots off and crashes into the frame and the bed comes right up to tip which scrapes along the glass, same as if I press print I have to press emergency stop I cant print nothing and cant find any guides vids or help anywhere do you know how I can get my printer working?
hi chris i have a question about heat on the tmc2209 drivers and standard nema 17 motors. before i used cheap tmc2100 and they always ran hot i think they were doomed to fail. i did have a fan blowing on them though but ive had some fail. i believe the BTT tmc2209 heat up less and mine will have heatsinks but im wondering if they still need cooling? i dont think they would but i dont want to kill them. thanks in advance
More cooling is never a bad thing, but you probably won't need it if you have heatsinks. Even better if you run them at 24v. Try to dial in your currents as low as you can and you should be okay with out a fan.
Hey Chris, do you know what the difference is between SPI Mode VS. SD Mode on TMC5160T PRO? I can’t find any information or videos that explains what the SD Mode does.
I'm at a loss for what is going on with my setup, maybe you can offer some insight. So I have the exact same hardware as far as the board and stepper drivers and I have gone through my configuration files dozens of times now to make sure my settings are correct. I have my drivers set up in the exact same way in the firmware and all commands come back fine, nothing seems to be out of place. The issue I'm having is when using sensorless homing I get motor grind as if it's crashing but it doesn't actually crash. It just grinds for a bit and then realizes that it hit something. If I set the homing sensitivity too low I get the expected "homing failed" crash. I've tried several things to fix this issue from mucking with the current and vref, enabling endstop pullup for x and y min individually even though these supposedly don't need that. I tried homing in both stealthchop and spread cycle. I've even tried a second skr 1.3 and set of tmc2209's to be absolutely sure I didn't just have junk hardware and both sets behave exactly the same. The only real difference in my setup to yours is that I'm using 0.9 degree stepper motors (with steps/mm set accordingly) and I'm running my second z motor off the E1 plug. All motors move and behave as expected aside from the unbearable grinding. Have you seen anything similar to this problem before? I haven't been able to find much on the issue and it's got me stumped.
I know you have tried both ways, but the only way sensorless homing will work right now on the 2209 is with stealthchop. The only thing I can think of is the jumper isn't on the X and Y diag pins.
@@ChrisRiley hey, thanks for your reply! I actually managed to fix it about a couple hours after I posted my comment. I'm not sure what exactly it was, but it was something in the firmware causing my issue. I realized that I was running a modified Marlin config that was built for an anet a8 because my printer is actually an am8. I had just gone through changed what I thought were all of the relevant settings when I changed over to an SKR 1.3 and everything functioned as expected when I was using tmc2208's. I decided to start with a fresh copy of Marlin to rebuild it from stock for the SKR board, and now everything works as expected :D I'm gonna compare the configs between the two later to try and figure out exactly what was causing my issue so maybe I can help others from having the same headache. One thing that still stands out to me though is the homing sensitivity on mine is considerably higher than yours. I had to set it to 170 on both x and y to get a quiet homing bump.
hi i have a skr v1.3 and the tmc2209's in the video and i can not get stealthchop to work in pronterface when stealthchop is enabled in firmware it says it is in spreadcycle for all steppers i have them set up in uart mode atm.
@Chris Riley, is this printer 12v ? Do you experience any whines when moving higher speeds ? For example my custom printer running skr v1.3 and tmc2209 or tmc2130 are experiencing whines when doing infill which is faster movement than external perimeters. Ender 3 which is 24v and has tmc2208 do not do this at all.
Could you do a video about Sensorless Probing? There's so less information about this and i stopped at the message "#error "SENSORLESS_PROBING requires a TMC stepper driver with StallGuard on Z."" (I have a TMC2209) on Marlin. Would be amazing if you could try that probing type.
Yeah, that is usually chopper timing causing that. They are a little quieter at 24v. See if changing this setting helps. #define CHOPPER_TIMING CHOPPER_DEFAULT_12V
I installed the tmc2209 on the 4 axis and it's set (Driver Current) x: 800 y: 800 z: 800 E1: 800 And the driver ref v I put 1.25 is correct? Note: They are moving very fast and making noise.
Hi Chris, first, thanks for this video and the previous for the SKR 1.3 Mainboard. I have the SKR 1.3 with (ERYONE) TMC2209s. Now, if possible any suggestion on this: When I tried the sensorless homing option (testing X), the motor does not move. I can move forward or backward but when press the home button it does not move at all and X value resets to -6. Same when testing Y. I tried changing sensitivity and current but made no difference. When I did the configuration for mechanical endstops it did move on demand and homing as expected. I can live with this but I was hoping to get the sensorless going.
Hey Marco, you might be hitting a Marlin bug. It's hard to say because all the different driver boards are configured a bit differently. Some of the board have to be soldered to get them into UART mode.
I had a similar issue with the BTT TMC2209 and the SKR 1.3 initial install went fine w sensorless homing. Did a benchie to test. Fired up the printer the next day to print. Attempting to home any axis individually the axis moves slowly then fails. Tried 2.0.4.4 then 2.0.5.3 nothing worked I reinstalled the endstops and removed the jumpers for the Endstops disabled Sensorless Homing and reflashed and all is well. It's either a bug in Marlin or something with these 2209s I've read in a few forums that there appears to be some issues with some of the 2209s and sensorless homing.
I figured out what the issue is, Chris said not to do this at the beginning of his video. I was powering my board via 5v from my Pi when you eventually turn on the powersupply something wonky occurs causing this issue. I connected my Pi via 3 wire directly to the SKR 1.3 changed the jumper around to power the board via the 24v feed reflashed w sensorless homing and everything is working fine. Rebooted several times no issues. Also I noticed my sensitivity were way less than when I had the jumper on 5V for it's power. Awesome work again Chris thanks so much.
Hi Chris. I have a problem with fisical endstop with same hardware. With m119 read trigger but the motor does not stop when it touches the switch. Do you have solution?
I have spare drives. When I plugged them, I saw that the driver slots that received wrong installation does not work anymore Alongwith the drivers that I installed wrongful initially.
Wait..stepper drivers are controlled via UART now? I think not many microcontrollers have more than two hardware uarts, so they make it work with bit banging which kind of defeats the advantage of speed a bit, doesn't it?
Correct. From experience I can say that 2208 with LA results in a non-functional extruder. Did read about some possible fixes, but haven't tried them yet. It's easier to move to 2209 ;-)
All you need to do is changing this setting from 0 to 1 --: #define MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE 1 There is other resons for changing to 2209, LA is not one of them.
I'm getting an BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo for my Tarantula Pro, I want to put in updated drivers, but I need it to be somewhat easy, I'd like to just drop them in. Is 2209s easier than 2208s? How about the higher series with no pot adj, SPI? Any suggestions? Thx
How does it compare with TMC2660 (Duet 2 controller board) in terms of noise and current ? It will be perfect if Duet supports the pluggable driver. thx
Hey Chris really like your videos have just tried to set up my SKR 1.3 with TMC 2209's alls good but my z is moving 10 times what it should if i try 1mm its 10ish if 10mm its like 100. I followed your setup to tmc2208s and then tmc 2209s have downloaded marlin several times to reset back to base. but every time it is the same x and y are good just z is moving to far. what can i check.
@@ChrisRiley Also funny thing is I can't get my HotEnd Exruder heater to heat up. I just get silence and a USB crash. I was looking for the pin controller on the visual code studio software. I can't seem to find the location.
Hi Chris. I am a bit confused about these skr mainboards. I have read that the E3 mini is the most easy one to install in my ender 3, same layout just a replug and go. The thing is that I find many many many bad comments about the board breaking quickly. So I am looking into the skr 1.3 or 1.4 now. Is there any board you prefer about these 3? I would really like to start printing alot more silently. Thanks
I have had good luck will all these boards, but I have heard people have had issues. I have had the most luck with the 1.3 board I would say, but I really like the mini because it fits in the case.
hello, I have a question regarding the choice of a driver, my need is to install 2 X motors and 2 Y motors on my Anet A8 plus printer, which is equipped with A4988 drivers. Which driver do you recommend knowing that the drivers will have to control 2 motors so double intensity or voltage. I am aware that it will be necessary to change the motherboard evening an MKS or a Beegtreetech. thank you in advance for your help
Hey Chris Dunno if you could help me ... I just got the turbo and had noticed my E drive skipping steps and while I was tweeking my settings I had added a smart graphic display but upon reboot my steppers wouldn't move ... Switched displays and even tried the alternate branch of marlin 2.0 in place of the bugfix ... I'm out of ideas here ... I'm running tmc 2209 and followed the setup and even cross referenced to make sure I have everything correct but my steppers still won't move ... Should add that they are free to move and that the M122 in pronterface gave the ok that everything if fine and they are working ... I'm sure I'm missing something just not sure what? Any help would be appreciated thanks
@@ChrisRiley yea they did ... I just saw the part where you said about buying them with the board ... These were from my skr 1.3 ... Unfortunately its malfunctioned due to my lcd screen burnout ... I messed up with some LEDs on my tft35 and something popped and so I bought the turbo hoping to get back to printing and I'm thinking the 2209s aren't going to work unless I alter them somehow.
@@ChrisRiley sorry to add a little more detail ... I checked the vref on all 4 and they all read 1.2-1.3v ... I set the current per your video and I had also swapped back over to my ender 5 board and checked to see if the steppers worked and they do ... I'm thinking I messed up my 2209s along with my 1.3 board and should just buy new ones and see if that works ... Pronterface gave an ok but I think it said they were disabled but it kept shooting information through so I couldn't get a good look at what it had said. I'm pretty novice with this stuff ... Sorry ... Trying to give you as much detail as I can.
@@ChrisRiley sorry 1 more ... I didn't want to run sensorless homing and found the part with the diag confusing my x and y are both removed, z and e are still on ... I'm thinking of switching to sensorless and getting rid of the endstops if that helps and I know if have to put pins back in the x and y chips if I were to use these ones ... I may just order new ones and take my chances with them just to be sure ... Oh and while jumping through marlin and the bugfix and the one btt puts up I noticed that one time I set the current but when I brought it up on the menu it was different and I had to change it ... Still no help and I can't find where I read it but I seen something saying that if your motors aren't moving to lower the standby (current?) Not sure if I'm correct about the current part ... Been reading alot sorry ... And thanks for the reply
i need help I could not get atom to load and run on fresh wind 10 install so using vscode finally got the project to build but regardless of settings for serial port build and up load report autoconnect cannot find port i have watched so many videos I am cross-eyed firmware. bin is loaded on card and the computer see it. want to use to run my x5s old board died
So that is usually because the firmware that is on it isn't configured correctly for serial. make sure the first serial is set to -1 for that board. Build the firmware then load the .bin file on the SD card manually the first time, it should work after that.
@@ChrisRiley i tried bot 0 and -1 doe serial connections. after some rewatching I did not unplug the usb after i loaded the firmware.bin file so i think that was the problem will try uploading again later putting the board back in the printer and have to watch 3 year old in a few minutes thanks for the quick reply as usually just something I missed because it was simple
Do you know the difference between stallguard 2 and stallguard 4? I tried to find out on the trinamic web site but I couldn't find any information about stallguard 4, only 2.
Very helpful. I am thinking to get a SKR 1.4 with 2209 drivers. Chris, what do you think about dual Z motors with using E1 as you mentioned to configure to level the bed? As in my CR10 sometime the Z axis gets tilted on one side. I was thinking of using two endstops if possible but looks like I can use sensorless homing for Z as well? Will definitely have to set something on Z both sides so it does not hit hot end.
Yeah, that is going to be tricky. I haven't tested the Z sensorless homing yet. It would be cool if it would run up to the top and level before every print. Adding the second E1 Z driver shouldn't matter to much. Should be the same results.
When building Marlin with PlatformIO in VSCode it takes about 5-7 minutes on my Dell XPS with Intel i7. I saw in the video that it took Chris only 44 seconds. Am I missing a trick here? Any help would be appreciated!
@@ChrisRiley Hi thanks for you answer! No it's a standard SKR 1.3.. I'm wondering, it's compiling very many files very time I run the build command not only the ones that have changed, is that normal?
That's weird, compiling the lastest stable Marlin 2.0 release, when trying to set the endstops to 'false', I get a sanity check saying they have to be set to 'true' for sensorless homing... In file included from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/../inc/MarlinConfig.h:38, from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/serial.h:24, from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\DebugMonitor.cpp:26: Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/../inc/SanityCheck.h:2108:8: error: #error "SENSORLESS_HOMING requires X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true when homing to X_MIN." #error "SENSORLESS_HOMING requires X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true when homing to X_MIN."
@@TheTrueTek Hey Rafi, I confirmed it would let me set it to false. Not sure what's up with your config. On another note, care to share your MMU2 SKR config? ;)
@@ChrisRiley Strange, I'm running off of the official Marlin 2.0 release... I've got it mostly running right now, worked around a bunch of weird issues, (like the extruder only working in one direction if i set the second serial port to 2!) What's the best way to share my config files with you?
@@ChrisRiley ok, yea i removed some of the jumper block pins from the ms 3 for xyz , from bigtreetech the tmc2208's came with single jumper cables but i wasnt sure if I needed them for the uart mode. havent tackled the marlin changed either yet. lack of info on these v3.0s
@@ChrisRiley btw i really appreciate you taking the time to still answer questions on an old post and promptly. Both time i have commented in your videos you have at least tried to help me, and within a couple of days. Several other channels just ignore older post. You've gained another subscriber and referrals from me!
@@vulrath8154 Thank you Justin, I try to help as many people as I can. That's why we are here, to learn. Send me a link to the driver you have, I would like to check out how they are configured. All these boards are a little different from one another.
If you have 2 x Z motors connected via an adapter to a single driver, when changing HAS_TRINAMIC section, do you need to double the Z_Current ?? e.g. from 800 to 1600
I've watched many config videos for my board! I have followed yours particularly (.25 speed) pretty sure no mistakes were made (4 times) but always says there's 42 errors! Are they just reminders, because they all point at lines that aren't (//) being used! These lines don't pertain to anything I'm connecting! Help! Lol! I'm by all means a newbie at this programing/flashing thing!
Something cool to try is Power Loss. My XY have sensorless homing, my Z use an endstop. When power loss happens it returns to the right Z position but not for XY, it shifts. Guess sensorless homing and power loss dont go along
My guess is that sensorless homing is unreliable because the motor might flex more on one homing than another and this causes inpredictability in the position. It's nice for one-go print where the zero position doesn't need to be 100.0% accurate, but as soon as you need to rehome and use it again, it'll shift a bit.
I just installed the SKR 1.4 and the TMC 2209's and now my extruder motor isn't working. It locks the motor like it trying to turn. I swapped drivers and the problem stayed with e0. Do you know why this is happening? Also I noticed this... Not sure if the e0 values are correct. Recv: X Y Z E Recv: Address 0 0 0 0 Recv: Enabled false false false false Recv: Set current 800 800 800 800 Recv: RMS current 795 795 795 1436 Recv: MAX current 1121 1121 1121 2025 Recv: Run current 25/31 25/31 25/31 25/31 Recv: Hold current 12/31 12/31 12/31 12/31 Recv: CS actual 12/31 12/31 12/31 12/31 Recv: PWM scale 22 12 22 66 Recv: vsense 1=.18 1=.18 1=.18 0=.325 Recv: stealthChop true true true true Recv: msteps 16 16 16 256
I ended up turning UART off because nothing I did fixed it. I tried increasing the current, thinking maybe it was too low at 800. I turned UART off on just E0 and it worked but then z was moving extremely slow. So they're all on TMC2209_STANDALONE. Also even though above says "Recv: msteps 16 16 16 256" it was set to 16... #if AXIS_DRIVER_TYPE_E0(TMC26X) #define E0_MAX_CURRENT 800 #define E0_SENSE_RESISTOR 91 #define E0_MICROSTEPS 16 #endif Possible there's still bugs in the SKR 1.4 firmware
@@ChrisRiley Yes, of course. I followed your description step by step. I have a Sovol SV01, but this shouldn't make any differences. Everything works besides sensorless homing and the FAN at Pin P2_03 won't run. I took the newest Marlin 2.0.1 and not that from BTT-github. Which should be no problem, isn't it?
Would there be any chance of you doing an updated version of this video for the BTT SKR v1.4 Turbo with the TMC2209's? My 1.4 Turbo arrived just today and it's going to be replacing a faulty board in my Anet A8 Plus DIY kit, and after seeing all the features you described here, its going to make this A8 Plus machine a BEAST..... now if I could get up the nerve to move forward with the project. ^.^;
@@ChrisRiley Also finding out that there's a whole list of configurations out there for Marlin, and there happens to be the A8 Plus amongst them, so this very well could make setting up my current printer a LOT easier for me. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations
@@ChrisRiley Big update for me on the build work on my Anet A8 Plus. Firmware has compiled correctly and I have the board connected to the printer and tuning sensorless homing for the XY, I have encountered that 60 was nowhere near high enough. I have settled in on 150 for now until I can be able to print. The main issue I am trying to figure out right now is with the extruder. I am not sure if its current or something somewhere in the settings, but its been a task for doing a lot of digging. If there's any information that I can forward to you about my build work, please let me know. I would be happy to help with the work on this new board (be it weekends due to a full time job ^.^;). Again, THANK YOU for what this video has provided, with your help and others on a relevant Discord chat, I have gotten to this point. Without that help (and frustration with the lack of knowledge on VB usage) I am able to turn a decent starter machine into what will be a BEAST of a printer when I am finally finished.
You will have to have 2 UART jumpers and a resistor to add them to the serial pins. Or you can run them in stand alone more by soldering some pins on the driver board.
@@ChrisRiley if u could make a video about it, i would really appreciate .because it is hard to me to understand from your this comment.and also i couldn't find anything about it on google. Or if you know a website or sth like that can u send me them
Hi Chris is the Marlin firmware stored on the Mainboard or on the Micro SD card. Can I transfer the card to exactly the same SKR board as I have a problem with the board in my Ender 3
It's loaded from the SD card, but stored on the board. You should have a .CUR file on the SD card, if you rename that to a .bin then you can use that to reload your firmware to a new board.
I am trying to do the same things with my GT2560 v3.1 on a Geeetech A20M BUT I Still get this error: \users\babyfa~1\appdata\local\temp\arduino_build_67630\sketch\src\inc\SanityCheck.h:2140:4: error: #error "TMC2208 or TMC2209 on X requires X_HARDWARE_SERIAL or X_SERIAL_(RX|TX)_PIN
Does that board have UART pins available? The SKR boards have this builtin. I think the only way you can use these is in standalone. They will require you to solder some pads on the driver board. Which one, I am not sure every driver board is different.
I see this was already mentioned in the comments and wondered if you figured it out yet? The instructions for the SKR 1.3/1.4 say for 2209's you need to cut the diag pin if using mechanical endstop on that driver. I assume you didn't cut the pin for Z. Is the bed level probe seen as a mechanical endstop?
I didn't cut the pin and I would think the jumper would control this. I am going to test this again. Yes, the probe should be just like a mechanical switch.
@@ChrisRiley After looking into it more, it's only the SKR 1.4 board that you have to cut the pin if you don't want to use stallgaurd. A step backwards from the 1.3. I'm not sure why they did that.
Great video. I am upgrading my 1 year old Ender 3 with an skr 1.3 (unfortunately I hit buy a couple of days before I saw an announcement about 1.4). I followed a few different source for instructions and configurations, yours seemed the most complete but I ran into one build issue. Atom / Platform.io failed to compile TMC_debug. This is my first time using Atom. I don't seem to have the right library. It completed with TMC_debug commented out. any suggestions?
i have set everything up as per but the extruder motor is getting that hot i cannot touch it, the vref is set ok so why is the motor getting so hot, iv swapped out the stepper moto and still same thing, its getting that hot it stary=ts to click and the filament stops feeding into the nozzle
What motor are you using, if it's a pancake, you will have to lower it even further. Try switching the driver setting to spread cycle mode and turn of linear advance.
Great video Chris. I just ordered a SKR 1.4 + 2209's to use with Klipper / Moonraker / Fluidd. Plan on doing the setup using KIAUH which appears to be the "new" way to do things. Would love to see you do a quick tutorial on that approach.
Hey Chris I got my SKR 1.3 finally however I am having issues with the 2209s. I get "Error: All LOW" when I perform M112 I read in on of the comments that UART only works w 12V is this true? I have the ender 3 Pro that's running at 24v. Thank for your help.
2yrs old and it's more informative than the rest here on UA-cam. Thank you sir .
I appreciate that!
@@ChrisRiley still struggling but I'm on your everything z axis vid now . Homing issue but I'll get it soon .
Today, I have upgraded the mainboard to the BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 drivers from the stock Anet A8 board. I am absolutely blown away by how much quieter my printer is. Before, I could hear the printer all the way upstairs, now i can barely hear it sitting 2 feet from it. And it runs so smooth now....I like it! Glad I seen your video on the 2209's. Thanks Chris!!
Awesome right!? SO much quieter, thanks for watching!
Timing is everything... I bought a set of Bigtreetech parts for my new CoreXY printer which include the SKR 1.3, 2209's and the TFT35 V3.0 controller a while back but have not had the time/energy to figure out how they fit together. Brother Chris to the rescue as he covered it all in his usual thorough manner. Well done and thank you, Chris.
Awesome to hear, thank you for watching and glad the videos help.
2209's are in the mail on their way to me now. I picked them over the 2208 because of the current limit (2A vs 1.4A) so I can stick those beefy StepperOnline guys on my printer and chug the bed around at ludicrous speed. Great vid, your channel is really thorough and you have a great way of explaining these things. Keep it up!
LUDICROUS SPEED!!! Thanks, man, I appreciate that.
mate, this is exactly all the information I was searching for, when I had to order a new board two weeks ago. For now I am still happy with the 2208‘s, but you made me curious about the 2209s next time.
Can‘t believe this video just hit 1.000 views, almost every maker must watch this! Thank you!
Great to hear, I am glad it was helpful.
Good job wrangling/reading the matrix of features, I saw the smile at "if you're not confused now" and immediately wondered how many takes that had taken ;)
Thanks! LOL, I was starting to confuse myself!
Amazing how far stepper drivers have come in the last 5 years. Thank you for another great "How Too" video.
Thanks John! For real, these things are getting really impressive.
Thanks a bunch! This walkthrough makes it so much easier to get the pins correct.
You're welcome, glad it helped you.
Hey Chris. I installed my BTT TMC 2209's yesterday. Finally got a chance to test them today when the grandchildren went home. Holy hell my steppers are quiet! Now I know what I was missing when running my A4988's. Just got to re-build my X axis to replace a badly flat spotted mini V wheel and my AM8 will be back in business (albeit much quieter). I have a BTT Mini UPS on the way now too, to hopefully sort out power outages, so Marlin will resume better. Greetings from Wales 😀
Hey Brian, yes, it is incredible how quiet they make the printer.
This video just lead me over the edge and made me buy 5 TMC2209 V1.2 from BigTreeTech. Wish me luck :)
Good luck!
Just like to say thanks for doing these videos, I was able to swap out a melzi in a Wanhao i3 v2.1 in under an hour with the help of your videos.
Nice! Glad they are helpful.
your videos are great man! surprised you don't have more subscribers! quality content!
Thank you!
Thanks to your excellent videos, I have now just ordered some Bigtreetech 2209's for my SKR 1.3 to finally upgrade from my A4988's. 😀
Great to hear! You'll love em.
Chris Thank you for the very informative videos. With your help I was able to get my TMC2209 and SKR 1.4T up and running. As a note, STEALTHCHOP for E & Z I did comment out. STEALTHCHOP for my BMG style extruder seemed to be creating noise with the stepper during retracts. Geoff
Great! Nice, I have heard others have better results turning it off for E. Glad it's working for you.
Thanks Chris. I watched other videos on this but only yours got me up and running. Thanks as well to Tobias below. I will also look forward to the 1.4 Turbo and 2209 video as that is the current setup i'm working on.
Awesome, yep, SKR 1.4 videos coming very soon.
Thanks Chris. Great and informative as usual. My 2209s are in the mail so this is my goto install video. I would love to see the use of stall guard 2 on z as a probe. Sounds kool.
Thanks Mark, yeah, I want to give that a try.
Myyyy herooo, looking for a tutorial for 2 weeks and it is almost imposible to find information. I even thought asking you to make a tutorial ajjajajaja thanksssssss
Niceeeee! Great to hear, I am glad this info will be helpful for others.
Chris, is it possible to do a install/config video about the SKR 1.4 (turbo) with TMC2209 steppers?
I would be very thankful!
Yes, I will work on it.
I second that. I have a SKR 1.4 Turbo and the TMC2209-1.2 lying around here, and I just can't get the drivers to run in UART mode. Pronterface always gives me "Error: All LOW" on m122.
Hence the interest ;)
OK, I figured this out: The UART-Connection only works with 12V connected.
I have it working now for a great deal. I have a creality CR-10S and have now installed the SKR 1.4 Turbo board with TMC2209-1.2 drivers in UART mode. I also activated sensorless homing. I'm able to move all axes in both directions, but I can't get my ABL probe (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V - inductive NPN) to work for doing the Z-homing. It starts the Z-home procedure and is going down, but it won't stop when the probe is triggered. M119 says that the probe is triggered or open, depending on the state, but whatever I change in Marlin it won't stop and will crash into the plate.
By the way, I'm using the Marlin 2.1.x development version.
Any ideas?
@@qwerrrrta Interesting find.
Excellent information concisely delivered. Just what I like.
I appreciate that!
Thank you for the great review, looking forward to the sensorless bed leveling video 😁
You bet! Yeah, that one should be fun.
@@ChrisRiley I bet it's even more fun doing that on a flexible plate with a magnetic base underneath ;-)
Hi I would love to ask a question.
If I use stand alone STEP / DIR mode how can I set the tmc to perform a full step each time?
You would pull MS1 MS2 and MS3 jumpers off, that would put them in full step.
@@ChrisRiley there is no ms3
@@idogedanken9999 Which board?
Great video thanks. Maybe you can help with this. I am building a printer and the hot end / carriage will travel past the edge of the bed before it will hit the end of travel in the x and y axis. Will I need to change any other setting for homing?
You mean it doesn't stop when the endstop is triggered?
Not actually sure at the moment. I’m in the process of building a printer and I made the frame large enough for a 300mm heat bed but right now I’m putting a smaller 210 (give or take) bed on it. It appears that the carriage will be able to travel to the left (view from the front) farther off the bed area then just to the edge. So I was wondering how one would adjust for the extra distance before the x carriage hit the frame hard stop for homing. Thx
@@dougw9224 Yes, so you will set the X/Y min to a negative number. 0,0 would be the corner of the bed. Anything more than that toward the endstop would be the negative setting.
It would be great to see you show the setup of skr 1.4 turbo, 2209 on the SK-GO
I am working on the 1.4 stuff now.
@@ChrisRiley i have just managed to get mine working SKR 1.4 Turbo, 2209s uart mode and sensorless homing but i did have to drop sensitivity down to 110. I'm also using a trulev probe and i did have to cut the diag pin off the Z axis. Im using the Seckit SK-GO :)
@@3DreamDesigns Good deal, glad you got it working.
I've tried this on the SKR 1.4 Turbo and have done plenty of research (not enough apparently), read through the manuals on github and tried many things. I have even gotten the SKR 1.3 and turned sensorless homing up to 255 (also tried 1) and still does nothing (as the motor will not stop). Right now I pulled the board, motor, and wired up a power supply for easy access. I did notice that I get 0xC0:08:00:00 when using M122 but says all testing is OK. Trying on a P802M because board died but have a Ender 5 Plus on the way.
What drivers do you have? They may be hardset to standalone mode.
@@ChrisRiley Got everything you have in video and followed video several times. That is Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 with TMC2209 also tried SKR 1.4 turbo as well. I am new to 3D printing however but have learned a lot in past month especially trying to figure this out.
Not all TMC2209 driver boards are created equal, this I have learned today. Your issue may be with the driver board itself as it may not have the DIAG pin installed in the correct location for the SKR 1.4 Turbo. Easy way to know would be to do a pin count on the bottom of the TMC2209. If you have 17 pins, then i'm 99.9% sure that the DIAG pin is not connected to the SKR 1.4 Turbo mainboard as that pin location is one spot over. No DIAG connection means no Stallguard and no Stallguard means no Sensorless homing. My setup is the SKR 1.4 Turbo with Eryone TMC2209 drivers. The only solution that I can see to correct this is to solder a jumper wire on the bottom of the board at the DIAG location and run it to the DIAG header pin on the TMC2209.....or get different TMC2209's that actually work with the board. Hope this helps ya.
@@daproph8352 So true, they all seem to be just a bit different.
Hi Chris, can you give me a little heads up on changing voltages on sensor less homing? I have both X & y working on a Hyper cube with 2209s on a SKR v1.4. Each axis homes really well individually but when homing all the Y homing clunks a little, it does not crash I cannot resolve with the sensitivity, seems much higher on the V1.4 turbo board at around 130. Clearly something to do with the Core XY set up but I have not figured out yet. I thought reducing voltages on homing might be the way. I have tried dual physical stops so the carriage homes evenly on both sides but this also does not make any difference. Thanks again Boothy
Hi Chris, I have just adjusted the voltages, it was staring me in the face, apologies for the request. I have found a sweet balance of 175 for the X current home and 150 for the Y current home. However on initial homing after switching on the Y axis still clunks a little but thereafter on repeat it is fine. I will now start looking at the driver current themselves. I did not realise that both sensor less homing sensitivity and the Driver currents can be individually changed directly from the printer on screen menu in Marlin from the config , advanced settings, TMC drivers menu, which is so much easier for testing. Best Boothy
Hey Stephen, I am glad you got it sorted out. Take care.
This is a different kind of article than I was looking for. That's OK, it was easy enough: replace my A8988s with TCM2209s, putting the pot's toward the RAMPS power terminals, reverse the stepper connectors, and set Vref to about .8 volts. The new drivers quieted my Makerfarm Pegasus effectively, so I'm satisfied. Have fun, those of your making the more elaborate upgrade!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing
I do not quite understand why you cannot use both DIAG pin and endstop. If I understand correctly DIAG would pull down only in case that something happened and can be configured not to pull at all through UART. Then they can coexist with endstop on the same pin so you do not have to cut it it. Issue could be if endstop pulls up and DIAG would try to pull down, then you would burn DIAG output, but that can be avoided if you use proper endstop. Am I missing something?
I think there is a combination that we could come up with to make this work. You can also just move the pins around in the code to do the same. BTT tells you to clip them, that's why I showed this method.
@@ChrisRiley Actually I looked into TMC datasheet and also installed them on SKR and unfortunately they keed diag pin low and only when stallguard happens it releases them (or pull up) for short time so looks like it is problematic to share them with endstop. I do not realy like idea of cutting pins on the driver so I think it was terrible idea to remove those jumpers :( I would better not have double connectors for Z steppers or at least they could provide solder pads on the board
Chris... you are an absolute miracle worker
Ha! Thank you
Killer timing! I just ordered some to replace my Wanhao i3 motherboard!
Nice!
I have the same set up just that my Z axis will not home and I followed every step. Any ideas?
Does it crash? is it a 1.3 board?
Awesome Video! Yup, I gotta get me some 2209s... This will surely help my skr setup...
Thanks Mike, yep, they are the best I have seen so far.
Can you use something like BL touch and still enable sensorless homing for Z axis as a precaution? As i hate when the hotends slams to my bend... it once bent the heatguard.
I think you could, I haven't tested it yet, but it should work that way.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks. Ill look into it when i get my new board installed. Would be really good to have a failsafe, double z motors have a lot of power to bend stuff.
HI how do I install these on a SKR PRO? also how do I set an SKR pro to now run my ender 5
as when I press home it just shoots off and crashes into the frame and the bed comes right up to tip
which scrapes along the glass, same as if I press print I have to press emergency stop
I cant print nothing and cant find any guides vids or help anywhere do you know how I can get my printer working?
I would have to look at your config, you have a pretty custom setup.
Does anyone know the difference between the BTT TMC2209 v1.1 and v1.2?
Looks like on the 1.1v they were having sensorless homing issues. 1.2 I have verified it works.
hi chris i have a question about heat on the tmc2209 drivers and standard nema 17 motors. before i used cheap tmc2100 and they always ran hot i think they were doomed to fail. i did have a fan blowing on them though but ive had some fail. i believe the BTT tmc2209 heat up less and mine will have heatsinks but im wondering if they still need cooling? i dont think they would but i dont want to kill them. thanks in advance
More cooling is never a bad thing, but you probably won't need it if you have heatsinks. Even better if you run them at 24v. Try to dial in your currents as low as you can and you should be okay with out a fan.
Thank you! This helped me a lot debugging sensorless homing.
Great! Thanks for watching!
Hey Chris, do you know what the difference is between SPI Mode VS. SD Mode on TMC5160T PRO? I can’t find any information or videos that explains what the SD Mode does.
I looked at the manual, I can't find anything other than SPI mode, not sure what SD mode might be.
Hello. What is the VREF setting for 17HS4401S Nema Motor and 1/8 stepper stepper of Tmc2209 stepper motor driver board? Thank you.
That's a 1.7 amp motor, it would depend on your load, but 800 would be a great starting point.
I'm at a loss for what is going on with my setup, maybe you can offer some insight.
So I have the exact same hardware as far as the board and stepper drivers and I have gone through my configuration files dozens of times now to make sure my settings are correct. I have my drivers set up in the exact same way in the firmware and all commands come back fine, nothing seems to be out of place. The issue I'm having is when using sensorless homing I get motor grind as if it's crashing but it doesn't actually crash. It just grinds for a bit and then realizes that it hit something. If I set the homing sensitivity too low I get the expected "homing failed" crash.
I've tried several things to fix this issue from mucking with the current and vref, enabling endstop pullup for x and y min individually even though these supposedly don't need that. I tried homing in both stealthchop and spread cycle. I've even tried a second skr 1.3 and set of tmc2209's to be absolutely sure I didn't just have junk hardware and both sets behave exactly the same.
The only real difference in my setup to yours is that I'm using 0.9 degree stepper motors (with steps/mm set accordingly) and I'm running my second z motor off the E1 plug. All motors move and behave as expected aside from the unbearable grinding.
Have you seen anything similar to this problem before? I haven't been able to find much on the issue and it's got me stumped.
I know you have tried both ways, but the only way sensorless homing will work right now on the 2209 is with stealthchop.
The only thing I can think of is the jumper isn't on the X and Y diag pins.
@@ChrisRiley hey, thanks for your reply! I actually managed to fix it about a couple hours after I posted my comment. I'm not sure what exactly it was, but it was something in the firmware causing my issue. I realized that I was running a modified Marlin config that was built for an anet a8 because my printer is actually an am8. I had just gone through changed what I thought were all of the relevant settings when I changed over to an SKR 1.3 and everything functioned as expected when I was using tmc2208's. I decided to start with a fresh copy of Marlin to rebuild it from stock for the SKR board, and now everything works as expected :D I'm gonna compare the configs between the two later to try and figure out exactly what was causing my issue so maybe I can help others from having the same headache. One thing that still stands out to me though is the homing sensitivity on mine is considerably higher than yours. I had to set it to 170 on both x and y to get a quiet homing bump.
@@MrKarriban Glad it's working. Interesting, I guess the higher setting is okay, just not sure why that is.
hi i have a skr v1.3 and the tmc2209's in the video and i can not get stealthchop to work in pronterface when stealthchop is enabled in firmware it says it is in spreadcycle for all steppers i have them set up in uart mode atm.
Hmm, stuck in eeprom? Try resetting it. M502 then M500.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for the reply i will get back to you when i have done this in the process of printing out all parts for motherboard swap
Hi Chris do I need to snip the diag pin if I don’t want senseless homing as installing on a delta thanks
Depends on the board, if it's not an SKR 1.4, then no.
On line 662 in the Marlin in your video What is the difference between using TMC2209 and TMC2209_STANDALONE?
TMC2209 is controlled through UART (the firmware) standalone is controlled with pins and jumpers.
@@ChrisRiley thanks, it's clear to me
Awesome as always
Thank you!
Hi. Thx for the Vid. I have mine skr 1.3 with tmc2209 and an tft35 here. I use an Sidewinder X1. Do you have an config for me? What must i change? thx
Thanks! I'm not really sure on the X1, I have never had to do that config. I am sure someone has one online.
Tmc2208 vs tmc2209 for ender 3 which cooler stepper motor?
2209 will run cooler.
@Chris Riley, is this printer 12v ? Do you experience any whines when moving higher speeds ? For example my custom printer running skr v1.3 and tmc2209 or tmc2130 are experiencing whines when doing infill which is faster movement than external perimeters. Ender 3 which is 24v and has tmc2208 do not do this at all.
Yes, they are a bit louder at 12v, especially in spread cycle. If you set the 12v option in Marlin it's a bit better.
Could you do a video about Sensorless Probing? There's so less information about this and i stopped at the message "#error "SENSORLESS_PROBING requires a TMC stepper driver with StallGuard on Z."" (I have a TMC2209) on Marlin. Would be amazing if you could try that probing type.
I have tried before and failed. I am hoping in the next release of Marlin I will get it to work.
hi chris , I have the same configuration stealhshop work perfectly but when i switch tmc2209 to spreadcycle i have high pitch sound ?
Yeah, that is usually chopper timing causing that. They are a little quieter at 24v. See if changing this setting helps. #define CHOPPER_TIMING CHOPPER_DEFAULT_12V
I installed the tmc2209 on the 4 axis and it's set (Driver Current)
x: 800
y: 800
z: 800
E1: 800
And the driver ref v I put 1.25 is correct?
Note: They are moving very fast and making noise.
The vref at the drive will report this when in UART, correct. 800 shouldn't cause them to move faster, it could be another setting.
Hi Chris, first, thanks for this video and the previous for the SKR 1.3 Mainboard.
I have the SKR 1.3 with (ERYONE) TMC2209s. Now, if possible any suggestion on this: When I tried the sensorless homing option (testing X), the motor does not move. I can move forward or backward but when press the home button it does not move at all and X value resets to -6. Same when testing Y. I tried changing sensitivity and current but made no difference.
When I did the configuration for mechanical endstops it did move on demand and homing as expected. I can live with this but I was hoping to get the sensorless going.
Hey Marco, you might be hitting a Marlin bug. It's hard to say because all the different driver boards are configured a bit differently. Some of the board have to be soldered to get them into UART mode.
I had a similar issue with the BTT TMC2209 and the SKR 1.3 initial install went fine w sensorless homing. Did a benchie to test. Fired up the printer the next day to print. Attempting to home any axis individually the axis moves slowly then fails. Tried 2.0.4.4 then 2.0.5.3 nothing worked I reinstalled the endstops and removed the jumpers for the Endstops disabled Sensorless Homing and reflashed and all is well. It's either a bug in Marlin or something with these 2209s I've read in a few forums that there appears to be some issues with some of the 2209s and sensorless homing.
I figured out what the issue is, Chris said not to do this at the beginning of his video. I was powering my board via 5v from my Pi when you eventually turn on the powersupply something wonky occurs causing this issue. I connected my Pi via 3 wire directly to the SKR 1.3 changed the jumper around to power the board via the 24v feed reflashed w sensorless homing and everything is working fine. Rebooted several times no issues. Also I noticed my sensitivity were way less than when I had the jumper on 5V for it's power. Awesome work again Chris thanks so much.
@@oralallen82 Glad you found it man, I hope all is well.
How do you setup a second Extruder?
That I don't know, I have never tried on one of these. You should be able to just enable it in the firmware.
Hi Chris. I have a problem with fisical endstop with same hardware. With m119 read trigger but the motor does not stop when it touches the switch. Do you have solution?
I have only seen that on some older versions of Marlin 2.0. Have you tried Marlin 2.0.3 yet?
@@ChrisRiley Hi. My Marlin Is bugfix..
@@modelrcitaly Try to upgrade to 2.0.3, that might fix it.
Will I be able to connect these drivers in another mode without the uart mode
You should be able to use stand alone mode, but you might have to solder some pins. Check the BTT github for the manual.
Can i install them on the anycubic i3 mega s? Cant find anything on the whole web :(
Yes you can, you might have to make some firmware changes as they will turn in the opposite direction. You will need to run them in standalone more.
putting them into standalone mode is all i need for the mega s/x?! these settings are very confusing lol
@@agenttank Correct, but you will have to solder some pads to get it to work depending on the driver board. It seems like all of them are different.
i have plugged my drivers in reverse direction. are my drivers or board done because i am getting tmc connection error now
My first guess would be the drivers got cooked. Do you have any other drivers you can test the board with?
I have spare drives. When I plugged them, I saw that the driver slots that received wrong installation does not work anymore Alongwith the drivers that I installed wrongful initially.
However other slots are still working but board is not useful anymore since only two ports are working now
That's a bummer man.
If you want to probe the bed with your nozzle, increase probing speed to 60 mm/s and reduce sensitivy bump
Right on, I want to see what happens for sure.
Wait..stepper drivers are controlled via UART now? I think not many microcontrollers have more than two hardware uarts, so they make it work with bit banging which kind of defeats the advantage of speed a bit, doesn't it?
TMC2209 UART uses a frame structure with a slave address field, so you can drive multiple chips (up to 4) with one UART.
Yeah, things get a bit tricky with one serial. I am currently troubleshooting some issues with multiple devices now.
I still dont know the benefit of sensorless homing, is it any better then machanical homing with endstops?
I wouldn't say it was better, but it does save you a few wires, that's about all.
Wow I am working on this Board so this Tut came just in time Thanks Chris !!!
Nice! Great to hear, thanks Ron!!!
One big reason to move from 2208's to 2209's is Linear Advance. From what I've read, the 2208's are not compatible with Linear Advance within Marlin.
Correct. From experience I can say that 2208 with LA results in a non-functional extruder. Did read about some possible fixes, but haven't tried them yet. It's easier to move to 2209 ;-)
2208 work in UART mode. You only have issues, when using Standalone-mode. Also the SQUARE_STEPPING option helps.
All you need to do is changing this setting from 0 to 1 --: #define MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE 1 There is other resons for changing to 2209, LA is not one of them.
Good to know LA is working on the 2208 cause I have a ton of them. LOL
I'm getting an BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo for my Tarantula Pro, I want to put in updated drivers, but I need it to be somewhat easy, I'd like to just drop them in. Is 2209s easier than 2208s? How about the higher series with no pot adj, SPI? Any suggestions? Thx
I would just go with 2209's, the BTT board makes them really easy to use.
How does it compare with TMC2660 (Duet 2 controller board) in terms of noise and current ? It will be perfect if Duet supports the pluggable driver. thx
The 2660 will be just as quiet as the 2209, 2660 can handle 2.8amp, so it can support larger motors if needed.
@@ChrisRiley thx so much for your promptly reply. : )
Hey Chris
really like your videos have just tried to set up my SKR 1.3 with TMC 2209's alls good but my z is moving 10 times what it should if i try 1mm its 10ish if 10mm its like 100. I followed your setup to tmc2208s and then tmc 2209s have downloaded marlin several times to reset back to base. but every time it is the same x and y are good just z is moving to far. what can i check.
Hey, it might be your steps. Marlin defaults to 4000, you need 400. If you send M92 Z400 that will fix it, then you can update it in firmware.
Thank you Chris, that was the culprit now to relevel the bed, again thanks for all you do for 3d printing and for your quick reply to my problem.
Hi Chris, so do I not need to adjust my vref if I were to install it on the my Skr 1.4 Turbo in UART mode? Thanks in advance
No, just use M906 to adjust it, start around 800.
Right now my homing sensitivity doesn't seem to like 110. Just now going to try higher.
Hmmmm....let me know how this comes out.
@@ChrisRiley Didn't work at all. I keep reading some bug with the sensorless homing. I gave up and went the regular route.
@@ChrisRiley Also funny thing is I can't get my HotEnd Exruder heater to heat up. I just get silence and a USB crash. I was looking for the pin controller on the visual code studio software. I can't seem to find the location.
@@dragnet53 You should be able to see the heater pins in the pins file for that board.
@@ChrisRiley Yeah, I saw that and finally got everything running. This has been a hassle on the Anet A8. lol
Hi Chris. I am a bit confused about these skr mainboards. I have read that the E3 mini is the most easy one to install in my ender 3, same layout just a replug and go. The thing is that I find many many many bad comments about the board breaking quickly. So I am looking into the skr 1.3 or 1.4 now. Is there any board you prefer about these 3? I would really like to start printing alot more silently. Thanks
I have had good luck will all these boards, but I have heard people have had issues. I have had the most luck with the 1.3 board I would say, but I really like the mini because it fits in the case.
hello, I have a question regarding the choice of a driver, my need is to install 2 X motors and 2 Y motors on my Anet A8 plus printer, which is equipped with A4988 drivers. Which driver do you recommend knowing that the drivers will have to control 2 motors so double intensity or voltage. I am aware that it will be necessary to change the motherboard evening an MKS or a Beegtreetech. thank you in advance for your help
The 2209 can probably do two just fine. If you want to be sure you have enough juice take a look at the TMC5160, just remember is it an SPI interface.
Hey Chris
Dunno if you could help me ... I just got the turbo and had noticed my E drive skipping steps and while I was tweeking my settings I had added a smart graphic display but upon reboot my steppers wouldn't move ... Switched displays and even tried the alternate branch of marlin 2.0 in place of the bugfix ... I'm out of ideas here ... I'm running tmc 2209 and followed the setup and even cross referenced to make sure I have everything correct but my steppers still won't move ... Should add that they are free to move and that the M122 in pronterface gave the ok that everything if fine and they are working ... I'm sure I'm missing something just not sure what? Any help would be appreciated thanks
Hey Mike, I am not sure what is up. Did the drivers work at one time? The board thinks everything is okay it sounds like.
@@ChrisRiley yea they did ... I just saw the part where you said about buying them with the board ... These were from my skr 1.3 ... Unfortunately its malfunctioned due to my lcd screen burnout ... I messed up with some LEDs on my tft35 and something popped and so I bought the turbo hoping to get back to printing and I'm thinking the 2209s aren't going to work unless I alter them somehow.
@@ChrisRiley sorry to add a little more detail ... I checked the vref on all 4 and they all read 1.2-1.3v ... I set the current per your video and I had also swapped back over to my ender 5 board and checked to see if the steppers worked and they do ... I'm thinking I messed up my 2209s along with my 1.3 board and should just buy new ones and see if that works ... Pronterface gave an ok but I think it said they were disabled but it kept shooting information through so I couldn't get a good look at what it had said. I'm pretty novice with this stuff ... Sorry ... Trying to give you as much detail as I can.
@@ChrisRiley sorry 1 more ... I didn't want to run sensorless homing and found the part with the diag confusing my x and y are both removed, z and e are still on ... I'm thinking of switching to sensorless and getting rid of the endstops if that helps and I know if have to put pins back in the x and y chips if I were to use these ones ... I may just order new ones and take my chances with them just to be sure ... Oh and while jumping through marlin and the bugfix and the one btt puts up I noticed that one time I set the current but when I brought it up on the menu it was different and I had to change it ... Still no help and I can't find where I read it but I seen something saying that if your motors aren't moving to lower the standby (current?) Not sure if I'm correct about the current part ... Been reading alot sorry ... And thanks for the reply
@@mikethorne1390 But they never worked on your turbo board correct?
Great video Chris. Looking forward to a senseless Z probing video with these....
Thanks! We will see what I can do.
No rush bro, i got mine up kinda. Working out the kinks. Mostly sensativity.
Cool Prusa clone. Do you have a video/guide building it?
Thanks! Check tom out here. toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/
i need help I could not get atom to load and run on fresh wind 10 install so using vscode finally got the project to build but regardless of settings for serial port build and up load report autoconnect cannot find port i have watched so many videos I am cross-eyed firmware. bin is loaded on card and the computer see it.
want to use to run my x5s old board died
So that is usually because the firmware that is on it isn't configured correctly for serial. make sure the first serial is set to -1 for that board. Build the firmware then load the .bin file on the SD card manually the first time, it should work after that.
@@ChrisRiley i tried bot 0 and -1 doe serial connections. after some rewatching I did not unplug the usb after i loaded the firmware.bin file so i think that was the problem will try uploading again later putting the board back in the printer and have to watch 3 year old in a few minutes thanks for the quick reply as usually just something I missed because it was simple
Do you know the difference between stallguard 2 and stallguard 4? I tried to find out on the trinamic web site but I couldn't find any information about stallguard 4, only 2.
I really don't, but I might be able to get them to fill us in. I will try.
Stallguard 4 also works in stealthchop mode
Very helpful. I am thinking to get a SKR 1.4 with 2209 drivers. Chris, what do you think about dual Z motors with using E1 as you mentioned to configure to level the bed? As in my CR10 sometime the Z axis gets tilted on one side. I was thinking of using two endstops if possible but looks like I can use sensorless homing for Z as well? Will definitely have to set something on Z both sides so it does not hit hot end.
Yeah, that is going to be tricky. I haven't tested the Z sensorless homing yet. It would be cool if it would run up to the top and level before every print. Adding the second E1 Z driver shouldn't matter to much. Should be the same results.
I just wanted to verify that the Bigtreetech TMC2209 dont require any soldering for UART mode. Is this correct?
yes is correct
Yep, I second that. :)
When building Marlin with PlatformIO in VSCode it takes about 5-7 minutes on my Dell XPS with Intel i7. I saw in the video that it took Chris only 44 seconds. Am I missing a trick here? Any help would be appreciated!
Do you have a 1.4 turbo? It has to do a bunch on includes. My Turbo build takes about 3 minutes, I am running 32g of memory.
@@ChrisRiley Hi thanks for you answer! No it's a standard SKR 1.3.. I'm wondering, it's compiling very many files very time I run the build command not only the ones that have changed, is that normal?
@@jans.7774 Yes, it has to compile the whole thing every time.
@@ChrisRiley Okay good to know, maybe I will try reinstalling PlatformIO or try it on another computer and see if that helps.. Thanks!
By the way the computer has an Intel i7 6560U and 16GB of memory, should be powerful enough
14:59 why not just use the reset button instead of power?
You can probably make that work just fine, but I have had better luck just rebooting.
what is that program its not arduino ide unless its newer?
That is MS VScode. Check this out. ua-cam.com/video/W6zYvRgGr3Q/v-deo.html
That's weird, compiling the lastest stable Marlin 2.0 release, when trying to set the endstops to 'false', I get a sanity check saying they have to be set to 'true' for sensorless homing...
In file included from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/../inc/MarlinConfig.h:38,
from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/serial.h:24,
from Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\DebugMonitor.cpp:26:
Marlin\src\HAL\HAL_LPC1768\../../core/../inc/SanityCheck.h:2108:8: error: #error "SENSORLESS_HOMING requires X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true when homing to X_MIN."
#error "SENSORLESS_HOMING requires X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true when homing to X_MIN."
Strange, I am working on a config now with the official release, I will check it out.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, let me know if you find anything :)
Keep up the awesome work!
@@TheTrueTek Hey Rafi, I confirmed it would let me set it to false. Not sure what's up with your config. On another note, care to share your MMU2 SKR config? ;)
@@ChrisRiley Strange, I'm running off of the official Marlin 2.0 release... I've got it mostly running right now, worked around a bunch of weird issues, (like the extruder only working in one direction if i set the second serial port to 2!)
What's the best way to share my config files with you?
@@TheTrueTek A Google drive link would be great!
how do i know what chopper timer voltage to use?
Go with the voltage of your PSU, it will say it on the side.
I'm currently setting these exact TMC2209 from Bigreetech drivers up on an SKR 1.4. Almost done.
Nice! I am still waiting on my 1.4.
Me too!
Howdy, do you have a tmc2208 v3.0 install for mks gen L video?
I don't, that will require some jumpers to use UART mode.
@@ChrisRiley ok, yea i removed some of the jumper block pins from the ms 3 for xyz , from bigtreetech the tmc2208's came with single jumper cables but i wasnt sure if I needed them for the uart mode. havent tackled the marlin changed either yet. lack of info on these v3.0s
@@ChrisRiley btw i really appreciate you taking the time to still answer questions on an old post and promptly. Both time i have commented in your videos you have at least tried to help me, and within a couple of days. Several other channels just ignore older post. You've gained another subscriber and referrals from me!
@@vulrath8154 Thank you Justin, I try to help as many people as I can. That's why we are here, to learn. Send me a link to the driver you have, I would like to check out how they are configured. All these boards are a little different from one another.
Are These Settings For A 12V Or 24V Setup? And What Would The Differences Be?
These are for either, these drivers should be good up to 36v I believe. The configs would be no different as far as boards and drivers go.
If you have 2 x Z motors connected via an adapter to a single driver, when changing HAS_TRINAMIC section, do you need to double the Z_Current ?? e.g. from 800 to 1600
No, 800 is more than enough for 2.
I've watched many config videos for my board! I have followed yours particularly (.25 speed) pretty sure no mistakes were made (4 times) but always says there's 42 errors!
Are they just reminders, because they all point at lines that aren't (//) being used! These lines don't pertain to anything I'm connecting!
Help! Lol! I'm by all means a newbie at this programing/flashing thing!
Does it fail the compile? They might be okay as long as it compiles.
@@ChrisRiley don't know, I just did it over & over when I seen the erors, never tried to upload it, I'll try try it & see!
Thanks for responding!
Something cool to try is Power Loss. My XY have sensorless homing, my Z use an endstop. When power loss happens it returns to the right Z position but not for XY, it shifts. Guess sensorless homing and power loss dont go along
Interesting, I will have to try this. Might have to re-home to get it to work.
My guess is that sensorless homing is unreliable because the motor might flex more on one homing than another and this causes inpredictability in the position.
It's nice for one-go print where the zero position doesn't need to be 100.0% accurate, but as soon as you need to rehome and use it again, it'll shift a bit.
Great video, perfect timing.
Thanks Darrell!
I just installed the SKR 1.4 and the TMC 2209's and now my extruder motor isn't working. It locks the motor like it trying to turn. I swapped drivers and the problem stayed with e0. Do you know why this is happening? Also I noticed this... Not sure if the e0 values are correct.
Recv: X Y Z E
Recv: Address 0 0 0 0
Recv: Enabled false false false false
Recv: Set current 800 800 800 800
Recv: RMS current 795 795 795 1436
Recv: MAX current 1121 1121 1121 2025
Recv: Run current 25/31 25/31 25/31 25/31
Recv: Hold current 12/31 12/31 12/31 12/31
Recv: CS actual 12/31 12/31 12/31 12/31
Recv: PWM scale 22 12 22 66
Recv: vsense 1=.18 1=.18 1=.18 0=.325
Recv: stealthChop true true true true
Recv: msteps 16 16 16 256
Try switching the E steps to 16 and retest.
I ended up turning UART off because nothing I did fixed it. I tried increasing the current, thinking maybe it was too low at 800. I turned UART off on just E0 and it worked but then z was moving extremely slow. So they're all on TMC2209_STANDALONE. Also even though above says "Recv: msteps 16 16 16 256" it was set to 16...
#if AXIS_DRIVER_TYPE_E0(TMC26X)
#define E0_MAX_CURRENT 800
#define E0_SENSE_RESISTOR 91
#define E0_MICROSTEPS 16
#endif
Possible there's still bugs in the SKR 1.4 firmware
@@jmcallister3951 Very possible, it is still pretty new.
Well i got a SKR 1.3 and BTT TMC2209 and sensorless homing doesn't work for me with your settings.
Hmmm...do you have your diag jumpers on?
@@ChrisRiley Yes, of course. I followed your description step by step. I have a Sovol SV01, but this shouldn't make any differences. Everything works besides sensorless homing and the FAN at Pin P2_03 won't run. I took the newest Marlin 2.0.1 and not that from BTT-github. Which should be no problem, isn't it?
@@whyme3697 Yes, Marlin 2.0.1 should work just fine. Does it just crash when you try to home?
@@ChrisRiley Yes, of course. And if i try to stop by hand, nothing happens.
@@whyme3697 Not sure, maybe something stuck in eeprom? Run a M502 then M500.
Would there be any chance of you doing an updated version of this video for the BTT SKR v1.4 Turbo with the TMC2209's?
My 1.4 Turbo arrived just today and it's going to be replacing a faulty board in my Anet A8 Plus DIY kit, and after seeing all the features you described here, its going to make this A8 Plus machine a BEAST..... now if I could get up the nerve to move forward with the project. ^.^;
Absolutely, SKR 1.4 content coming soon!
@@ChrisRiley Sweet! Will be eager to see the video. Looking to setting up the stealthchop and sensorless homing with this machine as well.
@@ChrisRiley Also finding out that there's a whole list of configurations out there for Marlin, and there happens to be the A8 Plus amongst them, so this very well could make setting up my current printer a LOT easier for me.
github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations
@@ChrisRiley Big update for me on the build work on my Anet A8 Plus. Firmware has compiled correctly and I have the board connected to the printer and tuning sensorless homing for the XY, I have encountered that 60 was nowhere near high enough. I have settled in on 150 for now until I can be able to print.
The main issue I am trying to figure out right now is with the extruder. I am not sure if its current or something somewhere in the settings, but its been a task for doing a lot of digging. If there's any information that I can forward to you about my build work, please let me know. I would be happy to help with the work on this new board (be it weekends due to a full time job ^.^;).
Again, THANK YOU for what this video has provided, with your help and others on a relevant Discord chat, I have gotten to this point. Without that help (and frustration with the lack of knowledge on VB usage) I am able to turn a decent starter machine into what will be a BEAST of a printer when I am finally finished.
@@AzurusNova Thanks for the update. If you get stuck, you can always send me an email. brotherchris81@gmail.com
hi how can i connect tmc2209 to ramps board
You will have to have 2 UART jumpers and a resistor to add them to the serial pins. Or you can run them in stand alone more by soldering some pins on the driver board.
@@ChrisRiley if u could make a video about it, i would really appreciate .because it is hard to me to understand from your this comment.and also i couldn't find anything about it on google. Or if you know a website or sth like that can u send me them
Thank for a great video . I also would like to see a video with the Skr v1.4 turbo.
Cool, I will work on it.
Hi Chris is the Marlin firmware stored on the Mainboard or on the Micro SD card. Can I transfer the card to exactly the same SKR board as I have a problem with the board in my Ender 3
It's loaded from the SD card, but stored on the board. You should have a .CUR file on the SD card, if you rename that to a .bin then you can use that to reload your firmware to a new board.
I am trying to do the same things with my GT2560 v3.1 on a Geeetech A20M
BUT I Still get this error:
\users\babyfa~1\appdata\local\temp\arduino_build_67630\sketch\src\inc\SanityCheck.h:2140:4: error: #error "TMC2208 or TMC2209 on X requires X_HARDWARE_SERIAL or X_SERIAL_(RX|TX)_PIN
Does that board have UART pins available? The SKR boards have this builtin. I think the only way you can use these is in standalone. They will require you to solder some pads on the driver board. Which one, I am not sure every driver board is different.
Chris Riley I’ve no idea, I’m really novice, it’s a GT2560 V3.1 board
@@babyface3105 It doesn't look like it has UART support. Try to use them in standalone.
Chris Riley Ok thanks I will try to do this
Chris Riley instrad of putting #define X_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209 I’ve just to replace TMC2209 by TMC2209_STANDLONE ?
I see this was already mentioned in the comments and wondered if you figured it out yet?
The instructions for the SKR 1.3/1.4 say for 2209's you need to cut the diag pin if using mechanical endstop on that driver. I assume you didn't cut the pin for Z. Is the bed level probe seen as a mechanical endstop?
I didn't cut the pin and I would think the jumper would control this. I am going to test this again. Yes, the probe should be just like a mechanical switch.
@@ChrisRiley After looking into it more, it's only the SKR 1.4 board that you have to cut the pin if you don't want to use stallgaurd. A step backwards from the 1.3. I'm not sure why they did that.
Great video. I am upgrading my 1 year old Ender 3 with an skr 1.3 (unfortunately I hit buy a couple of days before I saw an announcement about 1.4). I followed a few different source for instructions and configurations, yours seemed the most complete but I ran into one build issue. Atom / Platform.io failed to compile TMC_debug. This is my first time using Atom. I don't seem to have the right library. It completed with TMC_debug commented out. any suggestions?
Thanks! Atom has been super buggy for me lately. I have switched to using VScode.
How can a person contact you to discuss paying for some assistance?
You can send me an email. brotherchris81@gmail.com
i have set everything up as per but the extruder motor is getting that hot i cannot touch it, the vref is set ok so why is the motor getting so hot, iv swapped out the stepper moto and still same thing, its getting that hot it stary=ts to click and the filament stops feeding into the nozzle
What motor are you using, if it's a pancake, you will have to lower it even further. Try switching the driver setting to spread cycle mode and turn of linear advance.
@@ChrisRiley HOW di i turn of linear advanced
Perfect explanation... Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching!
Great video Chris. I just ordered a SKR 1.4 + 2209's to use with Klipper / Moonraker / Fluidd. Plan on doing the setup using KIAUH which appears to be the "new" way to do things. Would love to see you do a quick tutorial on that approach.
Thanks for the idea, I'll look into it!
Hey Chris I got my SKR 1.3 finally however I am having issues with the 2209s. I get "Error: All LOW" when I perform M112 I read in on of the comments that UART only works w 12V is this true? I have the ender 3 Pro that's running at 24v.
Thank for your help.
Nah, they should work the same at 12v and 24v, but error All Low is one I haven't seen before, not sure what that is trying to tell you.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for the reply. I returned those drivers and I'm waiting for my replacements.