I don't care that you said you're bad at math. I don't care that you put copper paint on hardwood. I don't care that you used a laser cutter. What bothers me is that Loctite puts their blue product in a red bottle and their red product in a blue bottle!
Loctite uses little blue tubes for ALL of their products, be it the red, green or blue variety of loctite. They also use red bottles for the 2 bigger sizes, regardless of which formula it is as well.
I have two ideas about cord management: 1. Most kitchen faucets that have a pull-out head retract by hanging a weight that moves up and down under and behind your sink. 2. Old school coil cord that they used to put on landline telephones.
The Drill Press chuck is stalling likely because the belt is either worn out and needs replacement and/or the belt is loose and the tensioner needs adjustment... It's possible the pulleys are also worn out (run your finger on the inside where the belt sits, if you feel a ridge or an uneven slope, it's trash and needs replacement)...
this came out really cool!! the copper colour paint was definitely the right way to go with that, so it might be worth knowing that metallic paint goes soooo much easier over a black base, and that's true for any colour metallic! it'll look smoother and need less coats!
Peter, you have an amazing way with words. I'm actually a therapist in my day to day, and in all the training, I've never heard someone articulate so well why people drop their resolutions like you just did here. Poignant, touching, but powerful. Thank you.
I go through phases of what i like to watch on yt and this is one of the few channels that i still get super excited when the notification comes up after watching for years.
For cable management, I would suggest a couple of small eye bolts that the cable can freely slide through at the top of the extending part, one in the wall and a small weight a the bottom to keep the cable slightly taught as to not bunch up when you collapse the lamp
It sounds like the cable would still get bunched up when retracting, you'd also have to find a balance between a weight that would keep it taught but prevent pulling the lamp in on it's own. I think he needs to attach the cable to the arm itself, following each diagonal. If you really want a clean look, you could do it internally but would be a lot more work.
@@ThisIsNotMyUA-camHandle snaking it along the zigzag members is a good idea, mine was based on some commercial lamps I've seen that have some kind of pulley and weight arrangement
Use laser cutter to make little wooden clips or eyeholes to run the cord through. Could maybe use some more of the scrap pieces if there are any left...those had holes.
I feel like nearly everyone that ever tried any crafts projects had a situation at one point where a project just becomes irritating in all ways possible but you've spent so much time on it that you just push through out of contempt and even when it ends up decent you look at it with knives in your eyes and you are just glad its over. As a perfectionist it happens to me far too much and it kills my motivation for any sort of handcrafts projects.
Love the look of this lamp. For a cable management you could get brass and cut small washers that are shaped like the number 8 and then bend the loops 90°. add them to the bottom of the scissor mechanism via the already existing Chicago Screws. then thread the lap wire thru the lower loop. It would hold the cord out of the way and it would match the copper inside the shade. You could also go crazy and attach some sort of retracking reel to gather the slack on the cord. Great video showing that sometimes you just need to put a project down and revisit it.
I have had a few projects like this; Where I am trying to make a thing and I tell myself "people have been making these things since the iron age, and companies make millions of them every day - why doesn't mine do the thing?" After the project ends (either successfully or not) I can let the frustration go and allow the reflection period to wash over me. When I can look back and say "well now I know how not to do it" or "Next time I think I know a better method to try." Peter Brown your channel gives me that feeling in a similar way - getting to watch your journey allows me to have that same period of reflection and I thank you for that. I will always celebrate your victories with you and share in the burden of your sorrows too, we are all makers and our shared experience is how we reach our potential. Thank you for reading my comment and for making these videos.
nice job! for cord management - extend the lamp fully. fix the chord along the extending cross braces. allow a small amount of slack at the brace joints....
Chicago screws were what brought my okder brother and sister into the world. By the time I came along the family had moved out of state.😊 Here's hoping for future Projected happiness. Watching your content has always been a boon to my mental health.
Pretty cool! From experience I can say that it's a right pain to build a scissor lift and have it do the thing. If you want to do it by hand you need a hole template/guide and to rigorously mark the orientation of the pieces so they all match up. shoulder bolts with nylon locking nuts make nice heavy duty pins! For the cord I recommend either a retractor cable, or a coiled cord like the stretchy telephone cords.
So for cable management, actually pretty easy. Add weights to the bottom of the cable (proportional to the weight of the cable in total), and then just add a hole for it at the top of the wall mount. Cable should slide down when it's depressed, and slide up and out when pulled ^^^
My first thought for the cord is a collaspable tube, like dryer venting. Mount it to run along the top of the scissor with the correct length at full extension and hopefully it would not "sag" and second thought was possibly some sort of reservoir or jar for excess cord to collect in when the lamp is collapsed to help keep it from hanging up or catching anything.
Hey Peter, just wanted to say that I think Peter is a cool dude... even though those kinds messaging are difficult to process through the lens of years of negative self-talk. Your channel is a delight and a reprieve for me at work, and gets me excited to get started on my own projects.
For cord management I think something similar to how a retractable cord works on a vacuum cleaner, it would have to be governed down for your application. You would pull the fixture out to any distance and cord would stop at the perfect length then push a button and the cord retracts and folds the lamp at the same time. Some sort of eyelet on the top of each arm would keep it tidy when extended. Love your videos. Hello for western 🇨🇦
Need a coiled cord kind of like an old telephone cord but for electricity and secure it at the top of the pole and the lamp so it will “spring” back and forth.
Dang, you did metal machinist level stuff with wood! It is beautiful! But I gotta say, I teared up when you said “why would I try to help someone I don’t even like” That really hit home with me. I stop and watch your videos because I love your crazy projects- but also because you’re a funny, pleasant and interesting person ❤
Command sells "Round Cord Clip" Just little adhesive clear clips you could stick to the arm. Just one or two, just enough to keep the cords from getting in the way.
They do make plastic cable clamps that you can use with your "Chicago screws" to support the cable along the length of the arm and to provide cable supports on the wall mount.
I made one of these a few years ago with my kiddo, and for cable management, we put small eyebolts in the middle and top joints to keep the cord secure. Ours may have been overkill for what you want, but, as some people have commented, you could also just do a couple at the top, to keep things in line.
if you install loops on the top joints and a slight weight on the wire near the wall mount, that would help with cable management. the lamp looks nice and neat!
For cord management, what about some type of ring hanging from each of the bottom joints with the cord running through them? The rings should be big enough to allow the cord to slip through them easily. Having the cord attached at the bottom would hopefully prevent it from getting tangled in the accordion mechanism.
Attach the cord to the links, so that it folds up with it. On "proper" vintage ones the cord goes through the rivets, but just attaching it to the links loosely works too, basically just letting the slack spread out over several places
I don't care what you use to make your project, it's YOUR project. You continue to do you and the people who truly like your channel will keep coming back.
Now make another one as a marking tool. Next time you make another lamp shade try Dutch leaf gilding. The super thin sheets of leaf cover completely in one dose with no drying downtime after application and the leaf does a great job of reflecting the light.
For cord management, I don't know if you'd want to go to the trouble disconnect the cord from the fixture, but if you did, you could drill a hole at the top of the opposing end (the end that has the swivel rod or whatever you want to call it), drilling it at the very top; just big enough to feed the cord through (then reconnect); then that way when the accordion part expands and contracts, the cord can just feed through in either direction, rather than bunch up when closed if it were fixed at a set length (which would need to be the max full extension, in that scenario).
The Project is great the one weak point I see are those two small pieces that hold the metal rod either thicker for more glue surface or a couple of gussets.
We had two of these lamps when I grew up. I pinched my fingers numerous times 😭 The original lamps had the cord weave through each joint on the upper half. We had another cheaper one where I think the cord was stapled to the middle and upper half of the scissor mechanism. One important thing for usability is to fasten the top slider at the wall, so the lamp doesn't suddenly drop on your head. Thank you for sharing
A little peg on the front of the top of the flat part where you keep looping the cord over it could help keep the cord from falling forward into the Elbow Abyss. You could even put a second, smaller peg on the peg that points backward to stop the cord from sliding up the peg and over it to become one with the elbows.
For cable management, a simple and easy solution might be to fully extend the scissor lamp as far as it could possibly go and then mark the spots on the cable that line up with the middle or bottom row of chicago screws. Then, you can anchor the cable on or near the chicago screws with hardware of your choice. The idea is to give each section the slack it needs to fully extend so you never have to worry about the cord getting snagged or binding up. Could like nice and neat too! This is all in theory, of course. I have yet to make something like this.
cool lamp, as for cord management how about an eye on the top of the bracket with a weight on the cord so it pulls back through as you shorten the arm.# Thanks for sharing a great video
I just started setting up my P2 today -- pretty nervous to get started, but maybe good nervous. So glad you have one as well so I can start getting project inspo.!
Peter, you're wonderful! This is exactly the same kind of chaos that happens every single time I step into the workshop. This was so relatable to me and I absolutely loved it! It turned out really well!!
18:20 You could mount a small brass pulley (maybe a wall mounted pulley if they make one) to the top of the wall mount for the cord to run through. On kitchen sinks they use a two piece clamping weight on the faucet hose to make it want to draw back in. Maybe a really small weight towards the bottowm of the power cord to make it want to pull back through while being out of sight along the wall.
Peter, love the project, and your comment about project defeats, reminded me to look at my shelf of “I’ll return another day” items :) Cable management: ascetics vs functionality, perhaps a coiled cord, has enough slack in the coils to extend, yet enough memory to return when the light is retracted. Much like an office style phone cord. I personally think it would be a great functional addition :) LOVE YOUR PROJECTS!! -Derrick
if you zigzag the cable along the arm following one route going up and down and attach it, it will be the length required for full extension and then will coil/fold neatly
For cord management, I suggest adding a small loop to the top of each section of the scissor and feed the cord through that so it keeps the cord from getting pinched by the scissor...
For the cord, you might be able to have it zigzag following the wood making the scissors. The wood pieces don't change length, so the cord won't have to slide if it's affixed directly to them. The only concern would be that the cord has to bend and unbend at each joint whenever you adjust the lamp.
As far as cord management, what about attaching clips on the outer side of the scissor legs along the top, extending the lamp out to fullest and then clipping the cable in place? So when it contracts the now loose extents of cable will drop down in (hopefully) tidy loops
you could use some cable clips on the scissor links down one side to keep the wire from getting caught and hanging, that would also prevent you from having too little cable and not being able to fully extend the lamp.
cable management: 3d printed wire holders that bolt in under the center bolt of each member. enough cord to be straightish when extended, then the wire folds up in to a bunch of loops when collapsed. Maybe some additional length when extended to promote the looping when collapsed.
The project turned out great and the perseverance shows. After seeing the rubber bands, I knew I would not be able to try this. My cat hunts them. I don't mean chases and plays, anything that smells like one will be dragged out of drawers and bins and chewed to pieces if not swallowed whole. How something without opposable thumbs can open a file cabinet is beyond me.
Won't need them if you aren't bad at math and are willing to glue them one corner at a time to get two pieces at an L angle first, then join those two pieces. ;P
I have several times used a math-free technique for setting up complicated compound miters: draw the finished object in the 3D CAD platform of your choice, then slice the model at the corners and have it tell you what the angles are. Then use your laser to cut a jig with slots just wider than your saw blade containing those angles out of wood or plastic, then use that jig to set your saw.
if you put a loop on every other ending chicago screw, you could have the cord follow a zig-zag pattern along the wood.. so it doesnt change length either. meaning cord goes down one leg, then up to the next then down to the next in a path matching the wood (that also doesnt change length)... just the angles of the bends change.
Thread the cord through oversized guides down one side. Then add a small weight to pull the cord back when you push the light back twords the post. Similar to the spray hose in you kitchen. Another option is use a coiled cord like that you see in race cars.
The length of the arms either extended or folded don't change, so you just run the cable zig-zag up and down the arms. A free-loop at each segment accommodates the bends.
For cable management I'd go in a zig-zag pattern up and down the scissor mechanism between either the top and bottom or the top and the middle hinges. Then you can secure the cable to the mechanism on one side and you would only need a little slack around the turns.
cable management idea.run a loop of metal from the chicago bolts on the bottom of the scissor mechanism, attach the cable to those new loops so that its slightly off taught when the lamp is at full extension. The cable will droop when the lamp is retracted, but not in a way that fouls the mechanism and can be run up the outer spar to the lampshade.
See if you can get something like fishing pole eyes to attach to the top of the accordion pivots. That way you can thread the cable through them and it will always be out of the way. might need a weight on the pole side to keep the slack out of it. Overall a cool project and it does that thing!
For cord mgt, you could have large diameter eyelets on each leaf of the mechanism, large enough so the wire does not catch. A common way to make cords stronger is to weave them through a chain, which also lowers the friction. You may notice that on other lamps.
for the wire just install eyelets along the support board. run the wire through them also add a guide eyelet to the top of the middle accordion post. this will keep the wire from being pinched.
For the cord, extend the scissor mechanism all the way, the. Use small c clips off the Chicago screws to hold the wire where it sits fully extended. Wont be perfect, but should hold it enough to not be in the way.
Curious as to how well the little wooden rod-to-scissor connector doodads hold up over time because, admittedly, I thought for sure the strain put on the top doodad caused by the leverage of the scissor and lamp at full extension would crack the back of the wooden doodad out along the grain since they were cut with the wood grain parallel to the direction the force will be applied (8:14), like a 3D print being weakest at the layers, if that makes sense... But, since you stacked two pieces to make one doodad, (if you did it again) it might not hurt to cut the two pieces (that will be glued together to make a single doodad) at 90° to one another on board so the wood grain of the two pieces crosshatche when they’re glued together to (hopefully) prevent the wood grain from being a weak spot, either when extended or an accidental twisting when adjusting the lamp
Splines. If your lamp sides start to separate from each other, clamp them tight and cut splines to fit into slots. I use splines when I make picture frames.....it's sort of like a through tenon
If you want to make a uniform "round" shape, called a regular polygon, the angle setting is 180/n where n is the number of desired sides. So if you want a three piece shade, you'd set the saw to 60° for the cuts joining the pieces. An 8 piece shade, you'd set the joint cut to 22.5°. A 12 piece shade? Set to 15°.
We have a bunch of these at our cabin, the cable is routed along the extending arm, following the zig-zag pattern. Not hidden, but it doesn't look unseemly, either.
I made something like that also, same issues came up. When I was done I realized I also needed to add a swivel to the lamp "head" so after stretching it out I could then turn the lamp left and right.
if you put the cord to go along the links with some attachments, it would be fine, with caveat of getting kinked, but it can be rigid mounted on it, the distance between the centers and outers remains the same so if you zigzag along that it's fine in the way that it doesn't get pulled at either end, maybe you can figure out an arrangement that doesn't kink too much but the point is that the woods stay the same length so the amount of cord on the links can stay same lenght.
You can magnetise the screw driver by swiping the driver over the magnet or magnet over the driver a few times and it will make the driver magnetic for a bit rather than sticking the magnet to the driver.
For the cord management what I would do is attach some sort of cable holder to the top of each of the bars on one side, then thread the cable through that so it stays in one place when it's extended
that's a nice one. For the cable, maybe some coil/spring type like in old telephones? I don't know the proper name, sorry. Some sort of extending cord might work also, like the ones in some vacuum cleaners.
For cord management, could you add a 'pass through' sort of tab to the top of the accordian part? Maybe something that you can add to what is there? It might still bunch up a little, but it would at least keep the cord in one place.
I too am bad at math! The cable could be managed by bridging each underside gap of the "scissors" at their widest- attached with your preference of doodads. When the lamp is extended the cord will be "taut" and when the lamp is retracted, the cord will hang down - maybe add a weighted bead or fishing lead in the middle of each cable bridge to ensure it does hang and not mangle itself in the scissor action of the lamp. In my head it works. I wonder if I could test it on a clothes rack. Hmm.
Beautiful. And a lot of Work achieved as well as a lot of Problems overcome. For the wlectrical Cord I would try to get an Automatic coiling Case/system Like the Ines we zsed dor the old telephonesceay Back before Handys existed. If they still make them. Alternatively its running the wlectrical Cord through a Tube in the scissor... More Problems..
For cord management, depending on where you put it permanently, have the cord come down from above. And have it on a pully system that can wind up as needed.
I don't care that you said you're bad at math. I don't care that you put copper paint on hardwood. I don't care that you used a laser cutter. What bothers me is that Loctite puts their blue product in a red bottle and their red product in a blue bottle!
Really? The red one I have is in a red bottle
Loctite uses little blue tubes for ALL of their products, be it the red, green or blue variety of loctite. They also use red bottles for the 2 bigger sizes, regardless of which formula it is as well.
Loctite is red. permatex is blue.
😂😂😂😂😂 too funny.
That way you can see when the bottle has a leak! (yes, I know this is of no comfort)
I really love how you show how many tries it took you to get something right, as well as you taking months off in between things.
I have two ideas about cord management:
1. Most kitchen faucets that have a pull-out head retract by hanging a weight that moves up and down under and behind your sink.
2. Old school coil cord that they used to put on landline telephones.
Also came to leave the "hidden" hanging counter weight, might be harder to hide on the lamp though.
ill add to the counterweight idea and also like to add maybe run the cord thru eyelets in the center of the mechanism
The coil telephone cord won't work with full power, but is big enough to support low voltage LED.
9:30 with captions using the table saw is translated as “music” and “applause” and I think that’s perfect. 😂
Low tension bungee cord.
The Drill Press chuck is stalling likely because the belt is either worn out and needs replacement and/or the belt is loose and the tensioner needs adjustment...
It's possible the pulleys are also worn out (run your finger on the inside where the belt sits, if you feel a ridge or an uneven slope, it's trash and needs replacement)...
this came out really cool!! the copper colour paint was definitely the right way to go with that, so it might be worth knowing that metallic paint goes soooo much easier over a black base, and that's true for any colour metallic! it'll look smoother and need less coats!
Peter, you have an amazing way with words. I'm actually a therapist in my day to day, and in all the training, I've never heard someone articulate so well why people drop their resolutions like you just did here. Poignant, touching, but powerful. Thank you.
I came here to say something similar.
Thoughts on betterhelp?
Indeed!!!
this is exactly why this is my comfort channel.
I go through phases of what i like to watch on yt and this is one of the few channels that i still get super excited when the notification comes up after watching for years.
The end smile with the "and look. it does that thing" makes it all worth it :D
For cable management, I would suggest a couple of small eye bolts that the cable can freely slide through at the top of the extending part, one in the wall and a small weight a the bottom to keep the cable slightly taught as to not bunch up when you collapse the lamp
this sounds like a good idea
It sounds like the cable would still get bunched up when retracting, you'd also have to find a balance between a weight that would keep it taught but prevent pulling the lamp in on it's own. I think he needs to attach the cable to the arm itself, following each diagonal. If you really want a clean look, you could do it internally but would be a lot more work.
@@ThisIsNotMyUA-camHandle snaking it along the zigzag members is a good idea, mine was based on some commercial lamps I've seen that have some kind of pulley and weight arrangement
For the cable management I would go zigzag from the middle-screws to the outer screws, bottom or top, what you like more.
Tensioning the cord is definitely the right method imo.
Looks good.
Perhaps, run the cord up and down along the scissor arms. That way the length stays the same.
Came here to suggest this also. Need a long cord, but simple and elegant solution
Loosely tie strap it to the framework
Use laser cutter to make little wooden clips or eyeholes to run the cord through. Could maybe use some more of the scrap pieces if there are any left...those had holes.
Came here to say the same thing lol
Yessss!
I feel like nearly everyone that ever tried any crafts projects had a situation at one point where a project just becomes irritating in all ways possible but you've spent so much time on it that you just push through out of contempt and even when it ends up decent you look at it with knives in your eyes and you are just glad its over. As a perfectionist it happens to me far too much and it kills my motivation for any sort of handcrafts projects.
😂 can confirm I’ve been through this!
"So 7°, and... um... that much."
lol I love it!
Love the look of this lamp. For a cable management you could get brass and cut small washers that are shaped like the number 8 and then bend the loops 90°. add them to the bottom of the scissor mechanism via the already existing Chicago Screws. then thread the lap wire thru the lower loop. It would hold the cord out of the way and it would match the copper inside the shade. You could also go crazy and attach some sort of retracking reel to gather the slack on the cord.
Great video showing that sometimes you just need to put a project down and revisit it.
Peter, you are awesome. Also thank you for sanding off the burnt edge of the laser cut wood. It’s my pet peeve when I see unfinished burnt edges!
I have had a few projects like this; Where I am trying to make a thing and I tell myself "people have been making these things since the iron age, and companies make millions of them every day - why doesn't mine do the thing?" After the project ends (either successfully or not) I can let the frustration go and allow the reflection period to wash over me. When I can look back and say "well now I know how not to do it" or "Next time I think I know a better method to try." Peter Brown your channel gives me that feeling in a similar way - getting to watch your journey allows me to have that same period of reflection and I thank you for that. I will always celebrate your victories with you and share in the burden of your sorrows too, we are all makers and our shared experience is how we reach our potential. Thank you for reading my comment and for making these videos.
I think one of the charms of your channel is seeing what goes wrong along with what goes right, thanks for including the bloopers.
nice job! for cord management - extend the lamp fully. fix the chord along the extending cross braces. allow a small amount of slack at the brace joints....
Chicago screws were what brought my okder brother and sister into the world. By the time I came along the family had moved out of state.😊 Here's hoping for future Projected happiness. Watching your content has always been a boon to my mental health.
Pretty cool! From experience I can say that it's a right pain to build a scissor lift and have it do the thing. If you want to do it by hand you need a hole template/guide and to rigorously mark the orientation of the pieces so they all match up. shoulder bolts with nylon locking nuts make nice heavy duty pins!
For the cord I recommend either a retractor cable, or a coiled cord like the stretchy telephone cords.
So for cable management, actually pretty easy. Add weights to the bottom of the cable (proportional to the weight of the cable in total), and then just add a hole for it at the top of the wall mount. Cable should slide down when it's depressed, and slide up and out when pulled ^^^
I’m glad your not broken!
1:19 can we just take a moment to acknowledge how cool those tools are!!! Cutter hole punch and rivet press? I need these in my life.
My first thought for the cord is a collaspable tube, like dryer venting. Mount it to run along the top of the scissor with the correct length at full extension and hopefully it would not "sag" and second thought was possibly some sort of reservoir or jar for excess cord to collect in when the lamp is collapsed to help keep it from hanging up or catching anything.
Great video. I've gotta add that I've heard better help sells your health information, so be aware before using their service.
Hey Peter, just wanted to say that I think Peter is a cool dude... even though those kinds messaging are difficult to process through the lens of years of negative self-talk. Your channel is a delight and a reprieve for me at work, and gets me excited to get started on my own projects.
For cord management I think something similar to how a retractable cord works on a vacuum cleaner, it would have to be governed down for your application. You would pull the fixture out to any distance and cord would stop at the perfect length then push a button and the cord retracts and folds the lamp at the same time. Some sort of eyelet on the top of each arm would keep it tidy when extended. Love your videos. Hello for western 🇨🇦
Need a coiled cord kind of like an old telephone cord but for electricity and secure it at the top of the pole and the lamp so it will “spring” back and forth.
Dang, you did metal machinist level stuff with wood! It is beautiful!
But I gotta say,
I teared up when you said “why would I try to help someone I don’t even like”
That really hit home with me.
I stop and watch your videos because I love your crazy projects- but also because you’re a funny, pleasant and interesting person ❤
Command sells "Round Cord Clip" Just little adhesive clear clips you could stick to the arm. Just one or two, just enough to keep the cords from getting in the way.
I am loving the whole No Damns Given and Making it up as you go along feel to this project. And it turned out well too!
They do make plastic cable clamps that you can use with your "Chicago screws" to support the cable along the length of the arm and to provide cable supports on the wall mount.
I made one of these a few years ago with my kiddo, and for cable management, we put small eyebolts in the middle and top joints to keep the cord secure. Ours may have been overkill for what you want, but, as some people have commented, you could also just do a couple at the top, to keep things in line.
if you install loops on the top joints and a slight weight on the wire near the wall mount, that would help with cable management. the lamp looks nice and neat!
For cord management, what about some type of ring hanging from each of the bottom joints with the cord running through them? The rings should be big enough to allow the cord to slip through them easily. Having the cord attached at the bottom would hopefully prevent it from getting tangled in the accordion mechanism.
Attach the cord to the links, so that it folds up with it. On "proper" vintage ones the cord goes through the rivets, but just attaching it to the links loosely works too, basically just letting the slack spread out over several places
I don't care what you use to make your project, it's YOUR project. You continue to do you and the people who truly like your channel will keep coming back.
Now make another one as a marking tool. Next time you make another lamp shade try Dutch leaf gilding. The super thin sheets of leaf cover completely in one dose with no drying downtime after application and the leaf does a great job of reflecting the light.
Great project! I think something like an eye bolt in the top joints would be a good place to put the cable for management.
For cord management, I don't know if you'd want to go to the trouble disconnect the cord from the fixture, but if you did, you could drill a hole at the top of the opposing end (the end that has the swivel rod or whatever you want to call it), drilling it at the very top; just big enough to feed the cord through (then reconnect); then that way when the accordion part expands and contracts, the cord can just feed through in either direction, rather than bunch up when closed if it were fixed at a set length (which would need to be the max full extension, in that scenario).
The Project is great the one weak point I see are those two small pieces that hold the metal rod either thicker for more glue surface or a couple of gussets.
bluetooth sender at the lamp base and a reciever in the shade, no cord from base to shade.
the wood possibly also bend from the paint on just one side
We had two of these lamps when I grew up. I pinched my fingers numerous times 😭
The original lamps had the cord weave through each joint on the upper half. We had another cheaper one where I think the cord was stapled to the middle and upper half of the scissor mechanism.
One important thing for usability is to fasten the top slider at the wall, so the lamp doesn't suddenly drop on your head.
Thank you for sharing
A little peg on the front of the top of the flat part where you keep looping the cord over it could help keep the cord from falling forward into the Elbow Abyss. You could even put a second, smaller peg on the peg that points backward to stop the cord from sliding up the peg and over it to become one with the elbows.
For cable management, a simple and easy solution might be to fully extend the scissor lamp as far as it could possibly go and then mark the spots on the cable that line up with the middle or bottom row of chicago screws. Then, you can anchor the cable on or near the chicago screws with hardware of your choice. The idea is to give each section the slack it needs to fully extend so you never have to worry about the cord getting snagged or binding up. Could like nice and neat too! This is all in theory, of course. I have yet to make something like this.
Bless your heart Peter , it felt like you had to push through that project , I could feel that you weren’t happy all the way through the process .
cool lamp, as for cord management how about an eye on the top of the bracket with a weight on the cord so it pulls back through as you shorten the arm.#
Thanks for sharing a great video
coiled classic phone cord for the wire management. extends, and also retracts itself
I just started setting up my P2 today -- pretty nervous to get started, but maybe good nervous. So glad you have one as well so I can start getting project inspo.!
Peter, you're wonderful! This is exactly the same kind of chaos that happens every single time I step into the workshop. This was so relatable to me and I absolutely loved it! It turned out really well!!
Thank you for being open about mental health.
18:20
You could mount a small brass pulley (maybe a wall mounted pulley if they make one) to the top of the wall mount for the cord to run through. On kitchen sinks they use a two piece clamping weight on the faucet hose to make it want to draw back in. Maybe a really small weight towards the bottowm of the power cord to make it want to pull back through while being out of sight along the wall.
Peter, love the project, and your comment about project defeats, reminded me to look at my shelf of “I’ll return another day” items :)
Cable management: ascetics vs functionality, perhaps a coiled cord, has enough slack in the coils to extend, yet enough memory to return when the light is retracted. Much like an office style phone cord. I personally think it would be a great functional addition :)
LOVE YOUR PROJECTS!!
-Derrick
if you zigzag the cable along the arm following one route going up and down and attach it, it will be the length required for full extension and then will coil/fold neatly
For cord management, I suggest adding a small loop to the top of each section of the scissor and feed the cord through that so it keeps the cord from getting pinched by the scissor...
Look cool! You could make loops for the top that the cord could go through. A separate piece or something.
For the cord, you might be able to have it zigzag following the wood making the scissors. The wood pieces don't change length, so the cord won't have to slide if it's affixed directly to them. The only concern would be that the cord has to bend and unbend at each joint whenever you adjust the lamp.
As far as cord management, what about attaching clips on the outer side of the scissor legs along the top, extending the lamp out to fullest and then clipping the cable in place? So when it contracts the now loose extents of cable will drop down in (hopefully) tidy loops
Nice design. I am sitting on a lamp project to make for sometime this year. Thanks for sharing.
For cable management, have the cable zig-zag along one set of the scissors
you could use some cable clips on the scissor links down one side to keep the wire from getting caught and hanging, that would also prevent you from having too little cable and not being able to fully extend the lamp.
cable management: 3d printed wire holders that bolt in under the center bolt of each member. enough cord to be straightish when extended, then the wire folds up in to a bunch of loops when collapsed. Maybe some additional length when extended to promote the looping when collapsed.
Cable management.
P clip at the bottom of each junction and allow the cable to pass freely through each.
Will hang down when pushed closed .
That turned out awesome!!! The copper really goes well with the bulb!
The project turned out great and the perseverance shows.
After seeing the rubber bands, I knew I would not be able to try this. My cat hunts them. I don't mean chases and plays, anything that smells like one will be dragged out of drawers and bins and chewed to pieces if not swallowed whole. How something without opposable thumbs can open a file cabinet is beyond me.
Won't need them if you aren't bad at math and are willing to glue them one corner at a time to get two pieces at an L angle first, then join those two pieces. ;P
Thanks for sharing this video with us. Please take care of yourself and your family.
I have several times used a math-free technique for setting up complicated compound miters: draw the finished object in the 3D CAD platform of your choice, then slice the model at the corners and have it tell you what the angles are. Then use your laser to cut a jig with slots just wider than your saw blade containing those angles out of wood or plastic, then use that jig to set your saw.
if you put a loop on every other ending chicago screw, you could have the cord follow a zig-zag pattern along the wood.. so it doesnt change length either. meaning cord goes down one leg, then up to the next then down to the next in a path matching the wood (that also doesnt change length)... just the angles of the bends change.
Thread the cord through oversized guides down one side. Then add a small weight to pull the cord back when you push the light back twords the post. Similar to the spray hose in you kitchen.
Another option is use a coiled cord like that you see in race cars.
The length of the arms either extended or folded don't change, so you just run the cable zig-zag up and down the arms. A free-loop at each segment accommodates the bends.
i could not figure out what you were making until halfway through the video. but that's so cool! it looks so useful!!
For cable management I'd go in a zig-zag pattern up and down the scissor mechanism between either the top and bottom or the top and the middle hinges. Then you can secure the cable to the mechanism on one side and you would only need a little slack around the turns.
cable management idea.run a loop of metal from the chicago bolts on the bottom of the scissor mechanism, attach the cable to those new loops so that its slightly off taught when the lamp is at full extension. The cable will droop when the lamp is retracted, but not in a way that fouls the mechanism and can be run up the outer spar to the lampshade.
See if you can get something like fishing pole eyes to attach to the top of the accordion pivots. That way you can thread the cable through them and it will always be out of the way. might need a weight on the pole side to keep the slack out of it. Overall a cool project and it does that thing!
Check the V-belt in your drill press...it's probably worn out. Mine was doing the same thing until I replaced the v-belt.
For cord mgt, you could have large diameter eyelets on each leaf of the mechanism, large enough so the wire does not catch. A common way to make cords stronger is to weave them through a chain, which also lowers the friction. You may notice that on other lamps.
for the wire just install eyelets along the support board. run the wire through them also add a guide eyelet to the top of the middle accordion post. this will keep the wire from being pinched.
For the cord, extend the scissor mechanism all the way, the. Use small c clips off the Chicago screws to hold the wire where it sits fully extended. Wont be perfect, but should hold it enough to not be in the way.
thanks for the upload, and also I know im a bit late but congrats on getting healthy. You look good, keep up the amazing work!
Curious as to how well the little wooden rod-to-scissor connector doodads hold up over time because, admittedly, I thought for sure the strain put on the top doodad caused by the leverage of the scissor and lamp at full extension would crack the back of the wooden doodad out along the grain since they were cut with the wood grain parallel to the direction the force will be applied (8:14), like a 3D print being weakest at the layers, if that makes sense... But, since you stacked two pieces to make one doodad, (if you did it again) it might not hurt to cut the two pieces (that will be glued together to make a single doodad) at 90° to one another on board so the wood grain of the two pieces crosshatche when they’re glued together to (hopefully) prevent the wood grain from being a weak spot, either when extended or an accidental twisting when adjusting the lamp
Splines. If your lamp sides start to separate from each other, clamp them tight and cut splines to fit into slots. I use splines when I make picture frames.....it's sort of like a through tenon
If you want to make a uniform "round" shape, called a regular polygon, the angle setting is 180/n where n is the number of desired sides. So if you want a three piece shade, you'd set the saw to 60° for the cuts joining the pieces. An 8 piece shade, you'd set the joint cut to 22.5°. A 12 piece shade? Set to 15°.
We have a bunch of these at our cabin, the cable is routed along the extending arm, following the zig-zag pattern. Not hidden, but it doesn't look unseemly, either.
I made something like that also, same issues came up. When I was done I realized I also needed to add a swivel to the lamp "head" so after stretching it out I could then turn the lamp left and right.
I guess people just forgot that better help was a scam because I am seeing ads for them again
Oh, wait, really? I kinda had a feeling but wasn't sure.
I'm glad you saw this through for the kids .
Thank you for your content. Also, thank you for your honesty. I think it turned out great.
It’s my birthday today and seeing a video by you is present enough, thank you Peter.
Happy birth 🎉
Attach the cord to the top and middle pivots using p clamps so the cord folds with the scissor and is always the same length from lamp to wall.
if you put the cord to go along the links with some attachments, it would be fine, with caveat of getting kinked, but it can be rigid mounted on it, the distance between the centers and outers remains the same so if you zigzag along that it's fine in the way that it doesn't get pulled at either end, maybe you can figure out an arrangement that doesn't kink too much but the point is that the woods stay the same length so the amount of cord on the links can stay same lenght.
Add loops to the scissor brackets to run the cord through. Or using a coiled cable might work
Matthias has a spreadsheet for doing splayed miters, no math or trial and error required if you have a miter saw that has labels on it.
You can magnetise the screw driver by swiping the driver over the magnet or magnet over the driver a few times and it will make the driver magnetic for a bit rather than sticking the magnet to the driver.
For the cord management what I would do is attach some sort of cable holder to the top of each of the bars on one side, then thread the cable through that so it stays in one place when it's extended
that's a nice one. For the cable, maybe some coil/spring type like in old telephones? I don't know the proper name, sorry. Some sort of extending cord might work also, like the ones in some vacuum cleaners.
For cord management, could you add a 'pass through' sort of tab to the top of the accordian part? Maybe something that you can add to what is there? It might still bunch up a little, but it would at least keep the cord in one place.
To fix the cable wrap it around a 1ish inch dowel for a while to give a a shape to return to when not extended.
I too am bad at math!
The cable could be managed by bridging each underside gap of the "scissors" at their widest- attached with your preference of doodads. When the lamp is extended the cord will be "taut" and when the lamp is retracted, the cord will hang down - maybe add a weighted bead or fishing lead in the middle of each cable bridge to ensure it does hang and not mangle itself in the scissor action of the lamp.
In my head it works. I wonder if I could test it on a clothes rack. Hmm.
I'd say a simple eyebolt at the top of the post should hold the cable nicepy out of the way of the spring.
Beautiful. And a lot of Work achieved as well as a lot of Problems overcome. For the wlectrical Cord I would try to get an Automatic coiling Case/system Like the Ines we zsed dor the old telephonesceay Back before Handys existed. If they still make them. Alternatively its running the wlectrical Cord through a Tube in the scissor... More Problems..
For cord management, depending on where you put it permanently, have the cord come down from above. And have it on a pully system that can wind up as needed.