Nice work. I ve built many battery power boxes like this. A few tips: 1-Use a USB C to 3S charger. Simple cheap and universal. See Aliexpress 2-To secure batteries, use double sided tape and tie straps instead of hot glue - you dont want those batteries coming loose. Wrap battery in Kapton tape. 3-Do not let the batteries in series touch use spacers or insulation between 4-You do not need the diode on the output 5-Include a small LED battery voltage readout after the switch so you can estimate state of charge of the box. You can add a push button activation to reduce idle current loss.
@@tamer-H Some chargers will allow a backfeed into the charger. If you use a charge board the does not block (like a XL4015 -good choice BTW) or you direct connect like he did and you use for example a DELL laptop charger then you need the diode. I found out on my last build luckily my BMS was current limiting. If the charger is not plugged into AC it can backfeed - so you need to test that case.
This is a good idea, tested and its working , he did the right thing , and yes it is acting like dc ups. The only draw back in this system is the dc to dc voltage regulator it does not include a protection at the output from a voltage drop, thus a voltage drop can cause the router to mulfunction.
My home router ran off a 9 volt DC plug, so I set up an old RV battery to provide 12 V for emergency lighting and radio communications, and a voltage regulator to get 9 volts to run the router. These things are now very easy to do with cheap DC to DC modules.
This is not "AUTO SWITCHING" power supply. it is constant power supply. Both the Battery & the 12 volt adapter are in parallel without any switching circuit.
You got great ideas,d only lacking is that there is no charge indicator. But it'll make do because In my place brownouts are frequents, it's really good to have a backup. Thanks 4 the idea.
You should have used a charge controller dc-dc board on the input instead of that boost converter on the output (or both). A slight variation in output voltage is usually not a problem and your router will handle that, but your cheap bms will absolutely not handle cell over voltage nor thermal runaway. A bms is NOT a charge controller but a safety device supposed to protect your battery in case of charge controller failure, which your device always have (as there is none).
I've powered a ADSL/VDSL router using a car battery or a 12V 7200mAh battery (commonly used for alarms or UPS systems). In certain cases, routers don't actually need the full 12V to operate, as they internally step down to 3.3V. This means that in some instances, you can run them on 5V (just make sure you have enough amps - power banks yes, usb ports no). Now just need a UPS for Starlink 🤔
look that you had to add 0.6 V to the out to cause of the drop tension of the diode, so it had to be 12,6 V. Good video, very interesting project. Thanks for to have made it
Nice video. Not sure if already commented, but maybe either move the LED it output side, or add one there. Seems like knowing there's power at the output, might be more useful than knowing there's power at the input.
This is good use of a boost board to keep the voltage stable when the cells are running low. A nice improvement could be doubling or tripling up the number of cells, still using the same BMS to give a longer running time.
I've used a tp-link m5350 coupled with a smart plug. It keeps the mobile hotspot from overcharging the battery by scheduling when it needs to charge. Online 24/7, it ran for a year.
The diode you use at the output cuts 0.7 volts, the 12 level you set decreases to 11.3, so you should set it to 12.7 so that you have a 12 volt output. Greetings, colleague.
Similarly, the homemade battery pack is supposed to charge to 12.6V but he put a diode between a 12.6V power supply and the BMS, so it will charge to somewhat less. But maybe that'll help the batteries last longer?
as i studied your circuit theres no auto switching happening here because the battery is running while charging all the time, so it acts like a power bank that plugged into the charger. but i think this is safe as long as the BMS wont fail.
A few dry cells and 2 diodes are much simpler. OR-ing the primary and secondary supplies together to the router through the diodes is a good short-term solution.
Charging voltage 12.6 v for 3S. You are adding a diode at power input , so charger used at input should have 13.2 volts output . Similarly diode at output , boost output adjust must for 12.6 , so that final output is 12v dc .
So if you have an area wide power outage the ISP will be down too, unless they have a backup system. This device would be okay if it's just for an inhouse network or if you can link your router to a cellphone and use the cell phone as your internet connection and link it to the router to keep your inhouse network connected to the internet... Interesting project...
Good idea, however there is room for improvement since there is no charging current limiter on this set up, so the charger will have to have a current limiting feature otherwise it will overheat pretty fast when batteries are low on charge.
I had already made it,, sim WiFi bsnl sim WiFi usb sim dongle, with inbuilt makes power Bank, with 8 cell 18650 with power Bank module,, backup so good ,, I mean 24, hours or 1day, with out charging,, and with charging no problem!
You can in a situation 12.6v charger is hard to find although it will not charge fully but it will charge to 12v or 11.9v and the food for the battery health
Pra mim foi uma ótima ideia, dependendo da queda de energia, roteador com cabo coaxial, funciona mesmo sem energia, desde que o roteador esteja ligado😂
Where's the ats Or simply relay? This is more towards a power bank 😂 It can be called Ats if you divide two power supply lines directly to the device and one path passes through the 12v BMS before it reaches the device Excited about the next content 🎉
so they say lithium batteries dont like being charged at 100% all the time, in most cases this battery is going to be completely full. are the batteries you using more tailored to this kind of setup, or is it just acceptance that they will need on going maintainence?
You should have used a 12v regulator if the modem is running on 12v. The buck converter isnt a regular. The input voltage will varry is the batteries charge and discharge and the output of buck converter will also vary
In this way, the batteries will not last long because they will both charge and discharge. You need to use a relay. When there is city electricity, only the batteries need to be charged. When the city electricity goes out, the relay needs to shut down and feed from the batteries.
Bu şekilde piller hem şarj hem deşarj olacağı için uzun ömürlü olmaz. Role kullanmanız gerekiyor. Şehir elektriği olduğu zamanlarda sadece pillerin şarj olması gerekiyor. Şehir elektriği gittiği zaman role kapanıp pillerden besleme yapması gerekiyor.
Cool. I was going to build something similar but then someone went and made Router Backup UPS for R299 ($16) that lasts for up to 12 hours on my 12V dual band WiFi router, supplies, 5V, 9V and 12 V and can do POE stuff. Oh well. Anyways, I bought a few.
This is almost exactly the same as the one Huawei used to bundle with their routers in my country, except it only used 2 cells and they didn't boost the voltage on the output but it worked basically the same way.
You are using the dangerous module with the ci xl6009, because if the voltage drops to 3.5 volts, the output goes to 40 volts and could burn the device connected to it, if in doubt, test
How about powering the modem too?! Make an UPS that can solve that problem and see how long will last a full charge under both the modem and the router. I have a dedicated UPS that powers both the modem (optical fiber) and the router (wifi). It can provide only 2h based on this load conditions, but it has all the protections ever existed.
@@homemade_101 so, are going to make a video for an improved UPS that can power both devices and for more than 2 hours? I'd be happy to build one from your video.
@@homemade_101u should have skipped using diode specially in input. Coz it will drop around 0.6 volt for no reason. Im using the simiar setup but without diode also without boost converter for router. Im using another similar setup with boost converter for my wdNAS(coz here stable voltage is required) but charging with 12 bolt adaptor directly. So each cell will get around 4volt , which is like 80% of the capacity and also the life of battery will be much longer.
Hi is a nice aproach to make an DC UPS but I have somes questions to even get better the design 1 the dc-in adaptor-charger is the ones it comes with the router? the voltage is enough to charge the batpack? 2 why is neccesary the boost module, the arrange og the 18650 is not enough 4.2*3=12.6V (real 3.7*3 = 11.1V is for this reason? or even is acting as a fixed 12v out regulator?) 3 in this arrange the BMS is always on chargin the 18650?, when dc-in adaptor is on and the batery is full charged who is really provide the dc ouput ? both dc-in adptor and battery
I have created the same but when connected with power and output. But when I have checked i get that it is actually taking power from battery when the power is available.
What's the function of the diodes on this setup? For reverse voltaje? Also, you need to adjust your output voltaje +0.7v, because the diode has 0.7 gate voltaje
Hello Mister. Is there any problem drawback or implication if I use the MT3608 DC dc Step up converter instead of XL6009? The appliance I will be using with consumes maximum 500mA. Thank you!
For what you need a backup supply for 7h? Its enough if it run few minutes if a fuse blow to give you time to reset the fallen breaker. If the mains fail in your neighbarhood your internet is also down , because the street cabinet is even without power though. The backup batterie in the there has only a litttle capacity to override mains hickups preventing for reboot the system. I recently ask a telecom guy while work on one of the cabinets about the batteries inside. A standard size is 48V 12Ah , its energy for 6 minutes. But the dc UPS is a good idea for other small gadgets, like an radio, emergency lights or music player.
there are some countries, areas, cities, where ADSL still running... you could be facing a blackout and still getting landline tone, so, you could connect the adsl modem and a wifi router to the power backup and get internet, i know this for personal experience
@@jhonkster Yes , of course, those dsl lines are feed from the phone exchange , but they become more and more meaningless while fiber optics spread the countries. Aside from that, this sort of dsl lines are mainly low speed and the customers demand for higer bit rates, for that reason allone the dsl line will die out. Street cabinets needs mains power and no phone company in the wordls will power them with sepate power cables from the exchange building. They cabinets got a meter compartment and powered from the local DNO. Phone exchanges got huge standby batteries , larger ones got back up generators. In this case a UPS system is a helpul device.
thus the battery stops charging when its full and the modem draws power from power adaptor and then when the power cuts that's the time modem uses battery power?
@@LivingTechCare (must check your router voltage like my router voltage is 6v and modem is also 6v) first step cut usb drive wire and connect input side with dc input
I just bought a APC UPS, plugged my modem, router, and IP telephone adapters into the UPS. If power fails, the 450 VA ups will run things for several hours, or until we crank the generator.
The problem with commercial ups is the energy waste converting 12v DC to 110/220v ac, back into 12v DC to power the router... Unless you need to power a 110/220v ac device, a pure DC ups like this one will give you more hours...
@@darioampuy we did it this way because it was a cheap, quick solution that keeps the modem, router, and phones running until we get the generator online. In the summer here, keeping the HVAC running during an outage is far more important, so we have the generator.
It doesn't last much. Your frustrations will begin pretty soon. After the warranty period is over APC UPSs are pretty useless. You will try changing batteries. But will not be useful for more than a few weeks. You will hope atleast it would act as a surge protection. But it won't. It will keep beeping and cutting off quite often. All because APC UPSs are software programmed with planned obsolescence. And a lot of energy wastage compared to Lithium setups like this.
@@saleesh4u I don’t know where you are getting your information, but we have had exceptional service from all our APC ups systems. We have 3 that are 6 years old and have replaced the batteries simply because of the age.
i wanted to make a ups for my router too but this only helps you if you need local network because if the power in the entire city/village you live in goes out then it will power out the master controllers from the poles and you will not receive any internet from them
Totally agree! No effort to sleeve/insulate any connections. Wires to batteries pushed up against the cut ends of the nickel strips welded to batteries. Circuit boards uninsulated and floating about loose in the box. Switch leads facing batteries uninsulated. What could possibly go wrong! As an example of what not to do - fantastic! A UPS, it very definitely is not, an in line power bank, ok, not such a bad idea and at least there is a BMS in there to prevent overcharging, assuming it's set up correctly. If they fully charge the cells continuously, then as a power bank it's not likely to last too long. Diodes..... Hmmm so 2 x 0.7 volt drops included.... A mediocre idea executed poorly I'm afraid. And as long as anyone copying realises the issues......
I have done the same connection like yours but my led indicator is always running What to do I have put resistor and diode in + like you have shown What to do?
Please reply❤ I follow each and every step and the model is working but the backup in Only 20-25 min please tell me why brother? I use Old laptop battery which is totally in working conditions. my last Question is BMS has Auto power cut if battery is full charge?
@@homemade_101 but i check batteries🔋 before installation in Multimeter it Shows 2.5-3 Volt 🥲 then what should I do please reply brother. Should I add some extra batteries in parallel? (Using old laptop batteries is good or Bad i think it is better than market batteries? )
Lithium-ion batteries can discharge down to 2.5V/cell = 7.5V for 3 batteries. 7.5V is way too little to run a 12V device. Also, while charging the voltage is a bit higher, this protects against it even though it's unlikely to cause damage.
Linear voltage regulators, like the 7805 regulator, require a higher voltage to work. A 7812 works properly from 14 to 30V. Also, efficiency is lower with a linear regulator.
Good afternoon, would it work to do this with an adjustable DC-DC power supply module, Boost converter, Step Up XL6009X1 with input IN = 100/35V and OUT = 100/35V?
Very nice video. I tried but 1st thing always less voltage out there not 12 v when connected to 20 amp bms. And xl6009 never out proper 12. Volt after setting potentiometer. Pls guide
Adjustable DC Voltage and current Power supply : ua-cam.com/video/vUOBuOsQ_0g/v-deo.html
wvdygdjggxugueyggutu üyeyi yy 🙈ye 🙄
@@homemade_101 руки помой чёрные
❤
@@homemade_101 what is 2A diode please explain
its over hit
Nice work. I ve built many battery power boxes like this. A few tips:
1-Use a USB C to 3S charger. Simple cheap and universal. See Aliexpress
2-To secure batteries, use double sided tape and tie straps instead of hot glue - you dont want those batteries coming loose. Wrap battery in Kapton tape.
3-Do not let the batteries in series touch use spacers or insulation between
4-You do not need the diode on the output
5-Include a small LED battery voltage readout after the switch so you can estimate state of charge of the box. You can add a push button activation to reduce idle current loss.
thank your advice brother
@@louisbellanca9293Why was the diode put on the income
@@tamer-H Some chargers will allow a backfeed into the charger. If you use a charge board the does not block (like a XL4015 -good choice BTW) or you direct connect like he did and you use for example a DELL laptop charger then you need the diode. I found out on my last build luckily my BMS was current limiting. If the charger is not plugged into AC it can backfeed - so you need to test that case.
Also, you'd then have to re-adjust your buck/boost converter to compensate for the 0.6V forward diode loss as well.
@@louisbellanca9293شكرا اخي انا فهمة انه يوضع للامان بسبب التيار العكسي
This is a good idea, tested and its working , he did the right thing , and yes it is acting like dc ups.
The only draw back in this system is the dc to dc voltage regulator it does not include a protection at the output from a voltage drop, thus a voltage drop can cause the router to mulfunction.
thank you so much.
My home router ran off a 9 volt DC plug, so I set up an old RV battery to provide 12 V for emergency lighting and radio communications, and a voltage regulator to get 9 volts to run the router. These things are now very easy to do with cheap DC to DC modules.
yes. thank you
@@homemade_101 A 😑
\|/📱
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/ \
❤
This is not "AUTO SWITCHING" power supply. it is constant power supply. Both the Battery & the 12 volt adapter are in parallel without any switching circuit.
@@kchandrakant50 exactly bro
so?
@@m_________23212 it will not last long
It's Called UPS
exactly
You got great ideas,d only lacking is that there is no charge indicator. But it'll make do because In my place brownouts are frequents, it's really good to have a backup. Thanks 4 the idea.
welcome
You should have used a charge controller dc-dc board on the input instead of that boost converter on the output (or both). A slight variation in output voltage is usually not a problem and your router will handle that, but your cheap bms will absolutely not handle cell over voltage nor thermal runaway. A bms is NOT a charge controller but a safety device supposed to protect your battery in case of charge controller failure, which your device always have (as there is none).
thnaks
@@niclas.lindstrom Can you make a tutorial?
He's using a special power adapter, with an output of 12.6V, for direct charging of 3S battery packs. So, this all works, and it will work safely.
I've powered a ADSL/VDSL router using a car battery or a 12V 7200mAh battery (commonly used for alarms or UPS systems). In certain cases, routers don't actually need the full 12V to operate, as they internally step down to 3.3V. This means that in some instances, you can run them on 5V (just make sure you have enough amps - power banks yes, usb ports no). Now just need a UPS for Starlink 🤔
Starlink good yes it is no need
look that you had to add 0.6 V to the out to cause of the drop tension of the diode, so it had to be 12,6 V.
Good video, very interesting project.
Thanks for to have made it
welcome
Soldering Like A Professional ❤
thank you bro
without shrink tube
So true. I learned just as much watching the soldering technique as I did the electronics. 😋
Nice video. Not sure if already commented, but maybe either move the LED it output side, or add one there. Seems like knowing there's power at the output, might be more useful than knowing there's power at the input.
Good idea!
This is good use of a boost board to keep the voltage stable when the cells are running low.
A nice improvement could be doubling or tripling up the number of cells, still using the same BMS to give a longer running time.
I've used a tp-link m5350 coupled with a smart plug. It keeps the mobile hotspot from overcharging the battery by scheduling when it needs to charge. Online 24/7, it ran for a year.
good
The diode you use at the output cuts 0.7 volts, the 12 level you set decreases to 11.3, so you should set it to 12.7 so that you have a 12 volt output. Greetings, colleague.
it is not issue
@@huseyinozkaya2910 діод на виході взагалі не потрібен.
@@homemade_101 It is. Just increasing the voltage to 12.7 is the solution to that issue.
@@homemade_101 Maybe it works but it shows you didn't really know what you were doing.
Similarly, the homemade battery pack is supposed to charge to 12.6V but he put a diode between a 12.6V power supply and the BMS, so it will charge to somewhat less. But maybe that'll help the batteries last longer?
as i studied your circuit theres no auto switching happening here because the battery is running while charging all the time, so it acts like a power bank that plugged into the charger. but i think this is safe as long as the BMS wont fail.
no
yes
Si el BMS toca la carcasa de la batería habrá una buena explosión. Es recomendable adherir un aislante. Mejor es prevenir que lamentar.
thank you. Sí, tiene usted razón. No los tengo ahora.
He usado los Boost Converter 3 años seguidos en equipos 12v sin novedad alguna. Gracias por el video.
thank you brother
That's a pretty cool setup. Thanks for sharing.
thank you brother.
Cuál son los componentes referencias?
A few dry cells and 2 diodes are much simpler. OR-ing the primary and secondary supplies together to the router through the diodes is a good short-term solution.
thanks your
Amazing work brother!!!
thank you bro
Thanks for the video.
Please i really need a reliable link that i can buy the parts because i love this project ❤❤
AliExpress is good
Charging voltage 12.6 v for 3S. You are adding a diode at power input , so charger used at input should have 13.2 volts output .
Similarly diode at output , boost output adjust must for 12.6 , so that final output is 12v dc .
yes, thank you
So if you have an area wide power outage the ISP will be down too, unless they have a backup system. This device would be okay if it's just for an inhouse network or if you can link your router to a cellphone and use the cell phone as your internet connection and link it to the router to keep your inhouse network connected to the internet...
Interesting project...
yes, your thinkin is good
With all those parts I would have added a 1$ battery holder case, would keep it servicable....
yes bro
Very good project👍
thanks
That Good and Number one For You . Thanks You 🤔🤔🤔👍🤔🤔🤔
welcome bro
I love this videos you make 😎❤️.. To me , it's very educational and really attractive ...
thank you
Good idea, however there is room for improvement since there is no charging current limiter on this set up, so the charger will have to have a current limiting feature otherwise it will overheat pretty fast when batteries are low on charge.
welcome
I had already made it,, sim WiFi bsnl sim WiFi usb sim dongle, with inbuilt makes power Bank, with 8 cell 18650 with power Bank module,, backup so good ,, I mean 24, hours or 1day, with out charging,, and with charging no problem!
I also liked the rubber clamp that you made to hold the board 😂 👌
thanks bro enjoy
Very helpful video
Thank you so much ❤
Can I charge the batteries with a 12v dc adapter?
thanks. you need a 12.6v charger.
You can in a situation 12.6v charger is hard to find although it will not charge fully but it will charge to 12v or 11.9v and the food for the battery health
Good job, thanks for the idea and inspiration.
welcome enjoy.
Pra mim foi uma ótima ideia, dependendo da queda de energia, roteador com cabo coaxial, funciona mesmo sem energia, desde que o roteador esteja ligado😂
thanks
This is great but would it not be as easy to just have a small relay switch the auto switch over when power goes out
without rely cut off
NUMBER ONE FOR YOU ❤❤❤
thanks brooo
Fantastik work, you nice teacher
thank you
நல்ல செயல்திறன் Good performance
thanks
Where's the ats Or simply relay? This is more towards a power bank 😂 It can be called Ats if you divide two power supply lines directly to the device and one path passes through the 12v BMS before it reaches the device
Excited about the next content 🎉
ok
so they say lithium batteries dont like being charged at 100% all the time, in most cases this battery is going to be completely full. are the batteries you using more tailored to this kind of setup, or is it just acceptance that they will need on going maintainence?
You should have used a 12v regulator if the modem is running on 12v. The buck converter isnt a regular. The input voltage will varry is the batteries charge and discharge and the output of buck converter will also vary
Input voltage is 12.6v
Nice and useful project, however it is not clear how the switching happens in this circuit.
welcome
Nice❤
thanks broo
In this way, the batteries will not last long because they will both charge and discharge. You need to use a relay. When there is city electricity, only the batteries need to be charged. When the city electricity goes out, the relay needs to shut down and feed from the batteries.
Bu şekilde piller hem şarj hem deşarj olacağı için uzun ömürlü olmaz. Role kullanmanız gerekiyor. Şehir elektriği olduğu zamanlarda sadece pillerin şarj olması gerekiyor. Şehir elektriği gittiği zaman role kapanıp pillerden besleme yapması gerekiyor.
but tht way power will be interrupted
@@iiiiii-w8h By supporting it with a capacitor, power interruption can be prevented..
Or a direct path with P-Mosfet!
Cool. I was going to build something similar but then someone went and made Router Backup UPS for R299 ($16) that lasts for up to 12 hours on my 12V dual band WiFi router, supplies, 5V, 9V and 12 V and can do POE stuff. Oh well. Anyways, I bought a few.
thanks bro
This is almost exactly the same as the one Huawei used to bundle with their routers in my country, except it only used 2 cells and they didn't boost the voltage on the output but it worked basically the same way.
thank your
Rammstein and the new one is amazing thank goodness for that one is a good idea to
welcome
I like the idea of the project, but not the assembly. Still good idea.
welcome broo thank you
Hi which type of enclosure box(size..etc) did you use for this project ?
5x4x3 inch
@@homemade_101 ok
You are using the dangerous module with the ci xl6009, because if the voltage drops to 3.5 volts, the output goes to 40 volts and could burn the device connected to it, if in doubt, test
this is working vary well
@@homemade_101You are at risk of losing equipment at your own expense.
@@delsoduarte8866 how about using xl6019 booster?
Good job and respect
thank you
Very nice, but where i find this pvc encloser box?
electrical part shop
How about powering the modem too?! Make an UPS that can solve that problem and see how long will last a full charge under both the modem and the router.
I have a dedicated UPS that powers both the modem (optical fiber) and the router (wifi). It can provide only 2h based on this load conditions, but it has all the protections ever existed.
good
@@homemade_101 so, are going to make a video for an improved UPS that can power both devices and for more than 2 hours? I'd be happy to build one from your video.
Hi. Did you recheck the out voltage after you put that diode?
it is no problem.
@@homemade_101u should have skipped using diode specially in input. Coz it will drop around 0.6 volt for no reason. Im using the simiar setup but without diode also without boost converter for router. Im using another similar setup with boost converter for my wdNAS(coz here stable voltage is required) but charging with 12 bolt adaptor directly. So each cell will get around 4volt , which is like 80% of the capacity and also the life of battery will be much longer.
ধন বানাইছেন ভাইয়া সেই হয়ছে😂😂
Пайка без флюса. Мастер с большой буквы.
thank your
Hi is a nice aproach to make an DC UPS but I have somes questions to even get better the design
1 the dc-in adaptor-charger is the ones it comes with the router? the voltage is enough to charge the batpack?
2 why is neccesary the boost module, the arrange og the 18650 is not enough 4.2*3=12.6V (real 3.7*3 = 11.1V is for this reason? or even is acting as a fixed 12v out regulator?)
3 in this arrange the BMS is always on chargin the 18650?, when dc-in adaptor is on and the batery is full charged who is really provide the dc ouput ? both dc-in adptor and battery
thank your advice bro
In places like india were can be lot of powercuts this will be a jem.
welcome
Hi dear in this project that you made is it possible to charge the battery when the charger is plugged ?
yes
@@homemade_101 ok thank you 👍
Is it safe for batteries? I mean are they being charged 24/7 while dc is plugged?
no problem
I have created the same but when connected with power and output. But when I have checked i get that it is actually taking power from battery when the power is available.
🤔
Very Nice Good job!
enjy. and thank you
I did everything but for some reason I am getting less than 1 volt output at the bms output and all my batteries are over 4 volts
Good project
Where can we get the box ? Can we get it online ?
Is it okay to install an additional 3S active balance equalizer to improve the efficiency of the battery?
no problem
@@homemade_101 Thank you. I will try to copy this video. May I ask the size of the case you used?
5x4x3
What's the function of the diodes on this setup? For reverse voltaje?
Also, you need to adjust your output voltaje +0.7v, because the diode has 0.7 gate voltaje
yo can adjust and input 12.6v
since u connected in series i guess buck converter or step up is not required
🤔
Thanks for sharing, subscribed
thanks my friend
Hello Mister. Is there any problem drawback or implication if I use the MT3608 DC dc Step up converter instead of XL6009? The appliance I will be using with consumes maximum 500mA. Thank you!
Add Fully charged battery indicator 😊
okky
Nice video. Please whats the Number code of the input diode?
1N4007 ok
For what you need a backup supply for 7h? Its enough if it run few minutes if a fuse blow to give you time to reset the fallen breaker.
If the mains fail in your neighbarhood your internet is also down , because the street cabinet is even without power though. The backup batterie in the there has only a litttle capacity to override mains hickups preventing for reboot the system.
I recently ask a telecom guy while work on one of the cabinets about the batteries inside. A standard size is 48V 12Ah , its energy for 6 minutes.
But the dc UPS is a good idea for other small gadgets, like an radio, emergency lights or music player.
yes
there are some countries, areas, cities, where ADSL still running... you could be facing a blackout and still getting landline tone, so, you could connect the adsl modem and a wifi router to the power backup and get internet, i know this for personal experience
@@jhonkster Yes , of course, those dsl lines are feed from the phone exchange , but they become more and more meaningless while fiber optics spread the countries. Aside from that, this sort of dsl lines are mainly low speed and the customers demand for higer bit rates, for that reason allone the dsl line will die out. Street cabinets needs mains power and no phone company in the wordls will power them with sepate power cables from the exchange building. They cabinets got a meter compartment and powered from the local DNO.
Phone exchanges got huge standby batteries , larger ones got back up generators.
In this case a UPS system is a helpul device.
Bro agar router plus onu ke liye setup karma ho to.... 3 batteries se kitna backup aa jayega
5 hours ok
thus the battery stops charging when its full and the modem draws power from power adaptor and then when the power cuts that's the time modem uses battery power?
power cut
What was the need of diode at the output end?
i use power bank boat 22v instead of ups ,how I made means I cut dc input wire and usb wire into half and connected both
good one
Do you have any video or tutorial much appreciated
@@LivingTechCare (must check your router voltage like my router voltage is 6v and modem is also 6v) first step cut usb drive wire and connect input side with dc input
Is the modem going to have an UPS too.
yes good one
thankssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss very nice project
enjoy
I just bought a APC UPS, plugged my modem, router, and IP telephone adapters into the UPS. If power fails, the 450 VA ups will run things for several hours, or until we crank the generator.
it is good
The problem with commercial ups is the energy waste converting 12v DC to 110/220v ac, back into 12v DC to power the router...
Unless you need to power a 110/220v ac device, a pure DC ups like this one will give you more hours...
@@darioampuy we did it this way because it was a cheap, quick solution that keeps the modem, router, and phones running until we get the generator online. In the summer here, keeping the HVAC running during an outage is far more important, so we have the generator.
It doesn't last much. Your frustrations will begin pretty soon. After the warranty period is over APC UPSs are pretty useless.
You will try changing batteries. But will not be useful for more than a few weeks.
You will hope atleast it would act as a surge protection. But it won't.
It will keep beeping and cutting off quite often.
All because APC UPSs are software programmed with planned obsolescence.
And a lot of energy wastage compared to Lithium setups like this.
@@saleesh4u I don’t know where you are getting your information, but we have had exceptional service from all our APC ups systems. We have 3 that are 6 years old and have replaced the batteries simply because of the age.
are you using cv n cc adaptor, if not will burn adaptor....
yes
i wanted to make a ups for my router too but this only helps you if you need local network because if the power in the entire city/village you live in goes out then it will power out the master controllers from the poles and you will not receive any internet from them
yes
Such a sure way to easy fires 🔥.
no
@@homemade_101 why no? You are soldering and the plastic could melt and short
@@shushruthmg4630 Not everything goes as you think. I am just showing the idea. thank you
Totally agree! No effort to sleeve/insulate any connections. Wires to batteries pushed up against the cut ends of the nickel strips welded to batteries. Circuit boards uninsulated and floating about loose in the box. Switch leads facing batteries uninsulated. What could possibly go wrong!
As an example of what not to do - fantastic!
A UPS, it very definitely is not, an in line power bank, ok, not such a bad idea and at least there is a BMS in there to prevent overcharging, assuming it's set up correctly. If they fully charge the cells continuously, then as a power bank it's not likely to last too long. Diodes..... Hmmm so 2 x 0.7 volt drops included....
A mediocre idea executed poorly I'm afraid. And as long as anyone copying realises the issues......
I have done the same connection like yours but my led indicator is always running
What to do I have put resistor and diode in + like you have shown
What to do?
680 ohm, led lb
@@homemade_101 I have used that resistor and diode but it is directly glowing does it will glow ?
@@izhanansari5032 You must have put the diode wrong, just reverse it and connect
Please reply❤
I follow each and every step and the model is working but the backup in Only 20-25 min please tell me why brother?
I use Old laptop battery which is totally in working conditions.
my last Question is BMS has Auto power cut if battery is full charge?
yes BMS has auto cutoff. I think battery problems
@@homemade_101 but i check batteries🔋 before installation in Multimeter it Shows 2.5-3 Volt 🥲 then what should I do please reply brother. Should I add some extra batteries in parallel?
(Using old laptop batteries is good or Bad i think it is better than market batteries? )
@@homemade_101 please Reply brother💖
Bhai 6 cells Mai Konsa diode or Konsa resistor use kare plz replay
no problem
Awesome👏
enjoy
VERY GOOD.
Thank you! Cheers!
never solder on lipo’s only spotwelding, ever seen a lipo catchung fire ?
What 🤯
Nice job! What is the max output current?
2A
@@homemade_101 Thx, my modem/router is 12v3A :(
@@jcroher but 12.6v input
Is it can be use for two output in the same time?
isn't the BMS going to deplete the batteries even when not in use?
Whats the purpose of voltage booster when it's already wired in series for 12v
Lithium-ion batteries can discharge down to 2.5V/cell = 7.5V for 3 batteries. 7.5V is way too little to run a 12V device. Also, while charging the voltage is a bit higher, this protects against it even though it's unlikely to cause damage.
Their is no need for voltage booster because you have connected cell in series and the are already providing 12v
oky
What if we don't use boost converter just use 12v regulator does that work!??
Input voltage is 12.6v
Linear voltage regulators, like the 7805 regulator, require a higher voltage to work. A 7812 works properly from 14 to 30V. Also, efficiency is lower with a linear regulator.
Good afternoon, would it work to do this with an adjustable DC-DC power supply module, Boost converter, Step Up XL6009X1 with input IN = 100/35V and OUT = 100/35V?
trty
i think that is not LM6009 but XL6009 boost converter. there is some issued about this module, when the Vin less the 3V the output jump to more 40V
Very nice video. I tried but 1st thing always less voltage out there not 12 v when connected to 20 amp bms. And xl6009 never out proper 12. Volt after setting potentiometer. Pls guide
Input voltge 12.6v ?
Pwer in adapter should be also a 12v charger inorder to charge the batteries, not just adapter.
12.6v
que funcion cumplen los diodos? gracias
safety. short circuit
What kind of box is that?. Will you please describe it
Project box for electrical Build
Or Kya iske jagha 6 cells use kr sakte hai Bhai plz replay
use 3S bms. no problem
Where to add LED battery charged/empty indicator on this setup ??!
it is not have in
@homemade_101 maybe on plus minus on BMS out ??