OSB vs Plywood Sheathing Choices
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Follow me on Instagram - / risingerbuild
How do you choose between OSB and Plywood Sheathing? In this video I'll give you some recomendations and some tips for building a tight & durable house that will stand for generations. -Matt Risinger Risinger Homes in Austin, TX
Man, only 33 thousand subscribers? Of all the people on UA-cam you're probably one of the most knowledgeable when it comes to conventional framed structures. I watch your video's to get idea's on how to re-do older structures on my land and at friends places. Personally, if I was building my own home, I would just dig a basement into a hillside like a walkout basement with one exposed wall, and then use 4 foot thick tire bales with an R-Value of 160 for the one exterior wall, then shotcrete the inside and outside of the tire bales with concrete (and of course there would be a rebar, re-mesh, and chicken wire latticework to hold everything together over the bales). Then I would make the "roof" out of shipping containers. Shipping containers cost 7 dollars a square foot to buy.
But then again, I'm not a normal person.
Brian the Brain thanks buddy. Let me know when your R-120 house is under construction. I need to visit!!!!
Matt Risinger Its gonna be while, but it will get done eventually.
How did your earthship turnout?@@smh9902
Yes, looks like you are doing the best of both worlds. Good job
Thanks so much! These kind comments keep me motivated to make videos... Best, Matt
I really enjoy how thorough you are.
Very welcome. Appreciate your taking the time to comment with positive thoughts. Best, Matt
I prefer Outsulation. Put on a 1-4" layer of PolyIso on top of your Tyvek Commercial D and you've got a super-insulated house for Texas. I also like that the WRB is fully protected. Best, Matt
I'm not familiar with that method for termite control, but as long as it's flush with the shear wall it should be able to be covered. Matt
No doubt, budgets are always the deciding factor. If I had it my way, I would spec marine grade plywood, primed 6 sides, then glued and screwed. I love that you are taping the seams on the exterior sheathing, and also along the stem wall to framing connection. I can look at your work and see that you and your team are providing a quality product; I just hope that the homeowners can truly appreciate and recognize it too. Thanks again for sharing.
Great video Matt; well said. I was a home inspector for 24 years, and I totally agree. On one of your future videos you may want to suggest plywood of other soffit board in the eves. Sometimes I see ODB in the eves and it just does not hold up.
No, that's why I use the "Crinkly" version of Tyvek called Commercial D or Drainwrap. It provides a gap behind the foam between the tyvek and foam to drain any moisture that gets into the cavity. I did another video a year ago and tested that in the field with red food dye in water. It worked amazingly well. Best, Matt
I think the #1 reason I see rot/mold/decay in the bottom 2' of houses I remodel is SPRINKLERS! So many people have their sprinklers set to go off at 4Am and have no idea they are wetting down their houses 2-3x per week. This detail is meant to be a belt/suspender approach to a very common area of moisture intrusion for Texas houses. For the minimal cost increase I feel that we are vastly improving the durability of my houses with this detail. Best, Matt
I agree the sheathing is NOT supposed to be getting wet, but my point is that plywood over the next 100-300 years is a more durable product. I use the pressure treated on the bottom 2' because that's where I've seen the most damage when remodeling. See my other videos for "proper building wrap details". Matt
Along the coast in Texas the use of pressure treated along the first two feet should be the standard. Always find damage & problems in that area
what about using advantech sheathing? better than OSB or plywood for moisture resistance
Nice video Matt. Just curious as to why the lower section of the wall in Austin is so much more susceptible to moisture damage. Is it because of landscaping or soil being placed up against the wall? And if so, wouldn't it make more sense just to educate the homeowner on how to landscape properly? It would be much more cost effective.
OSB is only more moisture resistant because it is coated. It needs to be coated because it is otherwise horrible in a wet environment, cut edges are not coated so water will get in there and through nail holes, for instance after a re-roof. By the time all the membranes and other systems are implemented the cost advantage largely goes away. Of course the strategies are good for other issues like air infiltration, ice dams, etc...
This is a good summary of the comparative advantages, even pretty reasonable since the recent findings against OSB, and removal from some codes. Well done.
Two minor points, if you see high end homes being built it is plywood, often heavy stuff all the way, like 1". Particularly in places near the mills like in Whistler BC.
If you are doing your own building for your own use other factors than a few bucks may intrude. So for instance the pleasure of working with nice wood and not covering your property with toxic glues; the cost difference is a lot on a big project, but I am building a small addition there are only about 14 sheets of ply in it, at about 15 dollars more. That is more, but if I was paying someone to do it, it would be 20-40K minimum, my cost will be sub 3K, just how cheap do I need to be; prefer not to have off-gassing every time the sun hits the building; find it easier to move the lighter panels. My main point is that while production building has one set of rules home building has another. Home builders may want to think creatively about that.
that's what you need is the moisture resistance and this is one of the many reasons why i use it always
Helpful, thank you. I will definitely check out your newer videos regarding how to address the bottom.
I have done this multiple ways, on walls with a brick lug and without even wrapping the bottom of the sheathing before installing it with a self adhered membrane. Matt you’ve got good ideas and the areas you address certainly are issues more often then not that are not addressed. Have you ever tried sealing the wall and concrete using asphalt primer as the adhesive instead of the expensive stuff you show that isn’t readily available? Perhaps in conjunction with Grace Vycor Plus? That’s what I am thinking of using on my next project.
Being a builder for many years, I can appreciate the attention to detail at what I view as the second most important in the building envelope; with the foundation naturally being the first...:)...Sweet job and if it's done right like that, you can sleep easy every night! If you build quality , they will come...
+godbluffvdgg Thanks buddy! Matt
Good videos by Matt. Makes common sense for builder and homeowner.
I really like this system…only thing I would mention is to you use all hot dipped nails at the entire portion where the marine grade plywood is installed, including all hood down straps….that perimeter water resistant tape and primer is a great looking system
Great video. They would never build a home like this here in the midwest (Iowa). We moved here last year and couldn't find a home that wasn't completely built from OSB, floor joists included. The place we ended up buying has been a nightmare. Built in 2000 and had to replace all of the exterior doors/frames and underlaying OSB due to water damage. Very poor quality construction compared to what I'm used to seeing in the south (Georgia), at 2X the cost. But, you have to live somewhere. As long as the house stays glued together long enough for us to sell it in 2 more years, that's all I'm worried about. The midwest really sucks. Never coming back.
Sounds like your problem isn't the OSB as much as the methods used to water proof during the build. I live in Utah and built my home in 2002 using OSB on the walls and roof; exterior walls are framed with 2x6 btw. We get tons of snow each winter and have driving rain in the spring and fall. During the summer we always have at least a weeks worth of days in the triple digits. To date, I have had absolutely no issues with water damage of any kind. As I am a retired contractor, I've built many homes in northern Utah using the same building techniques as when I built my own homes, and none of the homes I've built have had water issues of any kind. So like I first indicated... Perhaps your problem has more to do with a low quality build than the materials used.
If money were no object, I'd go 4' with the marine plywood at the base then the rest of the house would get 1/2" CDX. As you know lumber fluctuates greatly as a commodity and sometimes OSB needs to be specified to keep the house affordable. This method gives the best of price & durability. That being said, I never compromise on my weatherization system. No matter the sheathing you use if there is a water intrusion bad things will happen. -Best Matt
Great channel with awesome knowledge that a architectural technologist can admire.
Good Video Matt
i will use 1/2 Plywood for my 1st Build : 12"x10 ' Backyard shed with a HIP ROOF 4:12 Slope
matt. thanks for a great video. its nice to see that some home builders still put quality up front and i do like your approach to being cost effective but making that 2nd to quality. anyone who you build a home for should sleep well at night. thanks again
Great video! Writing a report for school on moisture control, will be sure to suggest this method.
Thanks for commenting! Best, Matt
Young Matt, Big Respect to Matt
Matt, first of all thank you for making all of these videos! They are great at explaining why it's so important for all of your systems to work in conjunction with one another. What are your thoughts on the Huber Zipwall system. It has taken off in my location over the last 3-5 years.
I think it's a good system for "standard" homes with 2' or greater overhangs. Be sure to make a sill pan for your windows, and I'd definitely use a Rainscreen when using Zip wall. Hope this helps. Matt
Thanks Chris! Appreciate it buddy. Best, Matt
Really enjoying your videos. It's a pity I have not been able to find a builder like you for my new home project in Brisbane Australia.
Thanks Johnny! Miss you buddy. Glad that you've found my vblog! Matt
very interesting. you take great pride in your product.
I like Georgia Pacific blue ribbon osb because the 7/16 had a blue edge and the 5/8 had a yellow edge on it.
solid wood ship lap, like they did in the good old days.
Matt, love watching your videos and have learned lot, appreciate your work.
I am building a house here in Toronto this summer and please come and visit the site if you ever plan to be here in Toronto.
I'm a new subscriber. Very educational... I'll definitely apply in life
Those are Jeld-Wen windows. It's my first house with them. Matt
thank you for the information and the truth !! never stop
8 years ago. Man! Huber wasn't even mentioned! Who'd have guessed.
Plywood is my preference- I used to be a roofer.
Frankly 1x sheathing is the best.
Especially if you're bulding an addition, cabin, or something basic.. It might be worth your while to go plywood. You can buy a stain+sealer, and you're done. It'll look nice too.. OSB, good luck. It just doesn't take paint very well at all. So you pretty much have to weatherize it, and put some sort of siding up.
YOUR BUILDING A GOOD HOUSE PERIOD!!!!!!!!!!!!
super helpful Matt. Thanks
Thanks Matt. Nice job!
Wow, so many different opinions on this subject being shown........
Now how many posting on here has actually been to GP or LP and watch plywood & OSB be made? I have. I will never use OSB......it fails faster in water faster. It fails faster in a fire condition. And OSB has a flame spread rating of 47 miles an hour.....that is how fast fire will travel across the surface of the board. Plywood does not have a Flame Spread Rating, will still support more weight under fire conditions than OSB. Plywood is pressure treated as well and OSB cannot be. Meaning Plywood is a better material to use in conditions where there will be water, termites. OSB cannot be.
And my time in the fire service I have seen roofs fail faster due to OSB roof decking where plywood even under fire and water conditions actually holds firefighter & ladders.
OSB is not what home owners actually think & told.
Finally as a Home Inspector and now a retired firefighter......RUN FAST RUN VERY FAST from a home built with OSB sheeting, open web floor & wood box floor trusses or wood i beam for floor joist......you are asking for your family to be trapped in a structural collapse if there is a fire in the basement. The floor will fail, and fail faster than you will believe. These light weight building materials used in a home construction spells disaster fast. A floor built with these materials will fail in less than 15 minutes under a fire condition. Where a #1 southern yellow pine 2"x12" will fail under a fire condition in about 90 minutes minimum.
Finally.........when a home is built with these materials the contractor will tell you it is a better material to build with.......in reality his cost to build the home is cut to about 1/3 to 1/2 of what it would cost with regular lumber and plywood. By using these materials the contractor increases his profit margins.
Do some research!
advantech sheathing doesnt fail in water
My personal Feeling share
Thank you!! I knew the wood product OSB failed fast when it came to water but didn't know about the fire difference. It does make sense though, considering how its made. My husband hated the stuff but never explained why lol... I will make double sure not to get a place with this product!
Here in Canada a space between the plywood is required to allow the house to breathe. It's interesting to see how you guys build in the southern states, much different then here
I'm in New England, a lot of houses like mine were built without a space between the sheathing and the siding, only Tyvek(or felt) is used. Repairs I've done regarding trim rot indicates that spacing would have helped avoid rot that starts at the backside of the trim board. What's been happening is that builder's felt placed over the Tyvek holds moisture and with no gap to dry, it rots the trim. Doesn't help that my contractor didn't backprime the window trim. I replaced it with Boral's TruExterior.
Have you ever taken apart a house that had a leak? How did that OSB fare when it didn't have an air gap to dry it out?
IN 30 years of building i never used OSB for walls. it's like buying a volkswagen bug to haul lumber. Sure the bug can haul some lumber,,, but it makes no sense.
I remember OSB becoming popular after Bush went to Iraq and all our plywood was sent there. I personally dislike & never use OSB and will always spend a little more for actual plywood.
I am currently in the process of backing out from a contract because the seller is not repairing their stucco properly. Your video really helps! I wonder if you guys build homes in Houston?
You have made a really good video but the idea that plywood is inherently better is not proven by any tests I have seen. The frame at 1.17 shows that the plywood has two good faces and a load of late growth low grade timber in the middle. I would very much doubt that it is stronger than OSB. It is certainly less dense.
It is true that you need to protect the edges of OSB to stop it swelling but you have done that really well with the waterproof skirt so OSB would work just as well.
how do you protect edges after it's been cut?
Although I'm just an average homeowner, I love learning these type of info Matt. I gives me understanding of our current house and what to look for if we ever to build ground up. Keep up with the great vidsl!
Great building practices Matt!!
Matt, how do you address the bottom 2" of the Carisle product once exposed to the weather and uv?
Thanks for all of your Build videos. You do a great job.
Larry
What about sheeting on the roof. Which is better. Nice video. Thank you
Any future reviews on usage of Zip Sheathing? Seems to be quite popular in Austin on a lot of apartments that are being constructed.
Thanks for sharing, your a great builder!
Hi Matt! I love your videos. So much to learn. Someday I will have watched them all and know everything ;o)
I just wanted to put in a plug for plywood, or rather for better quality materials in general. I hope builders will keep in mind that the labor cost of installing a better quality, more expensive product is often at or near the same as the labor cost of installing a cheap one. So when it comes to "value", you get more for your money by going with the higher cost, better quality material. This goes for things like windows too.
Matt- you're such a stud! Keep up the great work!
Hi Matt, I can't tell you how helpful your blog has been to my building process here in Thibodaux, Louisiana. I have 2' of Treated Ply along my base with OSB on top. I'm looking to use Tyvek C/D - do I really need the CWS or Ice / Water Shield at the bottom? and if so - where would the Mason plastic Flashing be applied in the process? Behind the plywood? Would the CWS still be applied over plywood and stuck to the flashing?
Please do an updated video to show newer technology.
Great tip thank you.
Matt - Great videos. I'm building a custom home in the NE and trying to determine if Advantech 1/2" Wall sheathing is worth the almost 2x price of commodity 7/16" OSB for the walls. My primary reason for considering it is water resistance (came from a house with moisture issues). I like your idea of CDX on the bottom. Have you considered/tried Advantech for the walls?
If I were building my house today I'd use all Plywood. Advantech is great, but Plywood has some HygricBuffer capacity. IE if your house leaks it can absorb some water and eventually dry out. I've not tried Advantech for walls, but I'm sure it's a good product. Either way, don't get your sheathing wet. Best, Matt
and prior to plywood and still a good option! shiplap!
Matt, I saw this video years ago and it just came up again today in my feed. I like the suggestion to use PT plywood for the bottom 2’ but you now seem to recommend only Zip systems instead of plywood and have abandoned the PT plywood lower section. Is that correct? I plan to build on a lake and am especially concerned about rot, termites, water damage and air intrusion. Advice?
I grew up in Europe where houses are mostly built with hard materials. I can't for the life of me get used to these wooden million dollar constructions. It just doesn't feel like its worth that much. I know we pay for locations, labour cost, and so on, but when I get into these houses it just isn't the same. I can pretty much go trough the wall if I put more force into it. In my opinion, nothing beats hard construction.
I know this is an old video but I love watching your videos, they are super informative! I have a question, what kind of tape is that joining/sealing the pieces of plywood together? Thanks
3:53
Metal stud framing and gypsum sheathing is the ultimate choice....
Totally agree, OSB soaks up water and falls apart.
I wish I could follow you around for a while
Funny to see how this channel has turned full on towards using whatever the sponsor this quarter is making. 20 years from now it would be a good comparison to see how the pressure treated CDX is holding up vs the huber green osb being pimped so hard now.
My issue is more with people saying "its worth the extra cost" Well at every step during the home building we have people saying "its worth the extra cost" At some point a 500k house turns into a 1m house because "its worth the extra cost".
Im more of a stickler for things being done properly then using the biggest baddest most expensive products.
Sorry if my question is strange but why you don't use MGO boards? They are made from magnesium oxide. Stronger then any plywood. It is 100% water resistant and stands 1300C degrees for more then 3 hours in fire. It holds screws and on. I am sure there is a reason for that, that I don't know.
Don't forget OSB has more shear strength than plywood.. I still role with the CDX tho.
In Puerto Rico we still use plywood sheathing.
Building is very different from one part of the continent to the next. We would not put the tape on the seams of the outside walls. That is how the moisture escapes going from the warm inside to the cold outside in the winter. In Vancouver they drill large holes under the windows as a moisture escape. Windows present the most common problems in cases of water penetration.
I use OSB on the exterior of a house but always plywood on the interior. Just don't like the off gassing and smell.
Thanks. Nice video.
Hi Matt. Great start in expanding the knowledge base in our industry.
What brand windows did you use on the project that has the dumpster in front of the garage?
Thank you,
I'm not a fan. It's too dependent on a "perfect" install and tape that will never fail. All the reverse lapping can't be good in the long run. It gets used for the same reason's people use T-Ply for sheathing. I don't use it. Matt
If the foundation is properly made with, say, poured concrete raised above ground level, could OSB be used from the bottom to top plates at the trusses? We're probably going to be building in a year or so and want to build green-ish with minimal waste. We're looking at TallWall exterior sheathing with raised heel trusses. It should stiffen the house, and minimize the number of cuts for the sheathing. Would that make sense?
I really, really hate the idea of pressure treated wood used in houses. the chemicals are so bad. plus osb might be a lot cheaper but if it gets wet it turns useless
Matt, great channel! Are you still using OSB & Plywood, or has the ZIPsystem replaced them?
+Andrew Colwell I do like Zip but don't use it on every build. I decide based on exposure what's best for the house.
Makes sense. Keep up the great work and congrats on 46k!
A lot of times builders in the south use a galvanized metal strip between the foundation wall and the framing wall for termite protection. Can the Carlisle strip go directly over that?
Not all OSB is the same. Some parts of America uses OSB that is junk at best. There are varying qualities of OSB. I have used OSB for years for subfloors in very expensive homes and it has been rained on for several days at a time with slight swelling at the edges and zero damage or separation to the surface. I am aware of a company that uses OSB made from hardwood with a high quality glue and the OSB does not come apart.
Huh, I used the zip board which it’s OSB. Wonder if plywood would have been better? It’s a tiny home 12x16
Should the sheathing be tongue and groove? Should the sheathing be vertical or horizontal?
Matt
What is your opinion of OSB being used on the roof?
Regards
Randy
That Siga Wigluv is some high dollar tape.
Yes... And worth it.
Thanks for video helps!
What do you think of using ICF's (insulated concrete forms) for exterior walls, how to they compare to the walls you show on your website?
wouldn't exterior foam trap moisture in the house?
I like your polyguard/carlisle combo, but I'm having a hard time sourcing the Polyguard 650 LT locally (or online for that matter). Any advice on what I should look for when shopping around for an equivalent?
Appreciate your videos, especially since I've been in the market for a new home. I was wondering how much you know about Dryline TSX structural wall sheathing? Is this sheathing good or not really? Would you buy a home built with this sheathing? Thank you!
Thanks for the info. Slightly off topic: do you putting furring between the Tyvek and the siding (not the sheathing) to allow water to evaporate?
I like this idea for my new build. Are there any concerns with a chemical reaction from the treated plywood on the bottom against an open cell foamed cavity insulated wall? Also does the open cell foam adhere to the treated wood as well since usually the wood tends to feel damp when new?
I've been doing this technique for about 3 years now without any issues. If you were concerned you could run a strip of 15lb felt behind the plywood before nailing it up. Best, Matt
what's the best sheathing option for Southern CA building where there is very little rain water. Zip vs Advantech vs OSB +weather layer?
In America, Celotex was the standard, not plywood. Maybe a 1x4 at a 45 degree angle in the corner. If you could afford it, plywood might be used in the corners. Plywood sheeting of the entire house is a relatively new thing.
Also... Treated plywood above grade? Not legal here.
i was looking at a brand new house the guy used OSB on the outside walls, floors, and ROOF. should i steer clear?
No reason to steer clear because of the OSB. That's the formula for 90%+ of the custom homes built in America. It's a good product.
Matt Risinger even on a roof, that stuff is okay?
randomrazr Yes, I often use it for roofs. The key is taking care of the waterproofing details. Keep it dry and it's a good product that performs.
Also have another question Matt, What type of tape is that you are using to seal the osb wood?
Do you still recommend Siga Wigluv for air sealing between plywood sheets or is there a more prolific product on the market now? I'm totally rebuilding a home from the 1960s. Adding 3/4" ply sheathing and air sealing where there was only tar paper and Hardboard siding before.
Good videos, my 40 yr old home in canada was built with backer board as an exterior sheeting. i eventually want to re-side and resheet the house, but will only be able to do the top half as the bottom is brick, do you forsee any issues down the road structurally only doing the top half?
What are your thoughts and experiences with ZIP system?