This is way beyond a "basic and simple" tank monitor replacement. 3d printing, surge protection, sensor cutting... not something the average RV owner will tackle. But hey, great system for you!
Actually there are many people that do install this system in their RV. The SeeLevel system is in a few trailers as OEM equipment, but most are sold aftermarket. 3D printing of the adapter bezels and surge protection are optional. I simply provide these ideas for those that might want to take the extra step. This might not be a project for you, but I like to provide a wide range of projects from simple to complex... as my viewers have varying skill levels. Pick the projects you are comfortable in doing.
Awesome...I’ve been planning on this install in my rig. I’d watched another video on this tank monitoring system, but as usual, your’s is head and shoulders above and beyond. So many critical and unique insights. BTW, you’ve really “gone for it” on the 3D printing front. So many new options. Which model 3D printer do you end up getting? Thanks as always.
I wish someone would do an easy to follow video for RVers to follow, a simple - no technical - mock up, on a garage floor using buckets and showing how they are wired from one to the other to the other to the panel, and where the battery ties in to this. The install instructions provided are horrible unless you are an electrical engineer.
How is it that the monitor has a single input for all the monitors? How can the monitor differentiate which tank is which? I absolutely love that you 3d printed the bezels I just might have print out for myself.
It communicates via a digital serial data bus. The single wire is essentially a network, and each device broadcasts at an appropriate time. Not unlike how the original Ethernet works (10-Base-2 for example), but without the need for the coax shielding. Each sensor sends a unique ID to the monitor. In fact, you have to program the sensors when installing to set them up for which ID they broadcast. In contrast, the OEM style well-nut monitors simply return a DC voltage which represents the tank level. This requires a wire to each tank.
@@RVProject makes total sense. I appreciate the response. I'm currently converting a sprinter van for off grid traveling and I love to geek out on every detail. I think that's why I find your videos so awesome. I definitely want to start building some of my own components as well. Keep up the great work!!
If you don't mind the incorrectly labelled switch, the pump switch can be used as an on/off switch. The switch is wired through the board so you would need to use the wires on the pigtail harness to connect it.
I have had them for a year and they still work. These work by measuring capacitance from the outside of the tank. I had a different brand capacitive tank monitor in my last boat, and it worked for the 6yrs that I owned the boat. While a different brand monitor is no guarantee this monitor will work, it does at least indicate the capacitive tank sensors do not foul like the internal well-nuts the OEM monitors use. The biggest issue as I see it is being able to install the sensors correctly on the tank. They should be a few inches from anything metal, which is not always possible in the typical RV.
No one shows how to actually remove this. there are no screws and I am trying to research before I get frustrated and yank! How on earth do I actually remove this meter?
I am not exactly sure what you are referring to, but if you mean the "Convenience Center" panel, it just snaps into the hole. The easiest way to remove it is from the backside. First, remove the circuit board. Then the sidewalls of the enclosure will be flexible enough to snap it out. It will be very difficult to remove the enclosure without first removing the circuit board, as the board more-or-less holds the enclosure in place.
@@RVProject I figured it out. For some reason everyone on youtube assumes an rv owner knows the front has a tab on the top that can release the cover. I didn't know that and was getting ready to yank and pray. Lol. I figured it out eventually. After the front cover is removed the screws are exposed and it is pretty easy. Every video I found skips this first step so it can be a little confusing in how to get started.
This is way beyond a "basic and simple" tank monitor replacement. 3d printing, surge protection, sensor cutting... not something the average RV owner will tackle. But hey, great system for you!
Actually there are many people that do install this system in their RV. The SeeLevel system is in a few trailers as OEM equipment, but most are sold aftermarket.
3D printing of the adapter bezels and surge protection are optional. I simply provide these ideas for those that might want to take the extra step.
This might not be a project for you, but I like to provide a wide range of projects from simple to complex... as my viewers have varying skill levels. Pick the projects you are comfortable in doing.
Great video. Thanks
Looking at adding this to our new camper. Thanks
Thank you for supporting the channel.
Awesome...I’ve been planning on this install in my rig. I’d watched another video on this tank monitoring system, but as usual, your’s is head and shoulders above and beyond. So many critical and unique insights. BTW, you’ve really “gone for it” on the 3D printing front. So many new options. Which model 3D printer do you end up getting? Thanks as always.
My 3D printer is a Creality Ender 3 Pro that I modified over time (auto bed leveling and other goodies). But it is still a basic Ender 3 Pro.
I wish someone would do an easy to follow video for RVers to follow, a simple - no technical - mock up, on a garage floor using buckets and showing how they are wired from one to the other to the other to the panel, and where the battery ties in to this. The install instructions provided are horrible unless you are an electrical engineer.
How is it that the monitor has a single input for all the monitors? How can the monitor differentiate which tank is which? I absolutely love that you 3d printed the bezels I just might have print out for myself.
It communicates via a digital serial data bus. The single wire is essentially a network, and each device broadcasts at an appropriate time. Not unlike how the original Ethernet works (10-Base-2 for example), but without the need for the coax shielding.
Each sensor sends a unique ID to the monitor. In fact, you have to program the sensors when installing to set them up for which ID they broadcast.
In contrast, the OEM style well-nut monitors simply return a DC voltage which represents the tank level. This requires a wire to each tank.
@@RVProject makes total sense. I appreciate the response. I'm currently converting a sprinter van for off grid traveling and I love to geek out on every detail. I think that's why I find your videos so awesome. I definitely want to start building some of my own components as well. Keep up the great work!!
Nice!
Thanks!
Could you just use the one with the Pump on/off switch and rewire it for power on/off?
If you don't mind the incorrectly labelled switch, the pump switch can be used as an on/off switch. The switch is wired through the board so you would need to use the wires on the pigtail harness to connect it.
How is this working out for you. I was looking to install them but was wanting to find a long term use update to make sure they are holding up. Thanks
I have had them for a year and they still work. These work by measuring capacitance from the outside of the tank.
I had a different brand capacitive tank monitor in my last boat, and it worked for the 6yrs that I owned the boat.
While a different brand monitor is no guarantee this monitor will work, it does at least indicate the capacitive tank sensors do not foul like the internal well-nuts the OEM monitors use.
The biggest issue as I see it is being able to install the sensors correctly on the tank. They should be a few inches from anything metal, which is not always possible in the typical RV.
No one shows how to actually remove this. there are no screws and I am trying to research before I get frustrated and yank! How on earth do I actually remove this meter?
I am not exactly sure what you are referring to, but if you mean the "Convenience Center" panel, it just snaps into the hole.
The easiest way to remove it is from the backside. First, remove the circuit board. Then the sidewalls of the enclosure will be flexible enough to snap it out.
It will be very difficult to remove the enclosure without first removing the circuit board, as the board more-or-less holds the enclosure in place.
@@RVProject I figured it out. For some reason everyone on youtube assumes an rv owner knows the front has a tab on the top that can release the cover. I didn't know that and was getting ready to yank and pray. Lol.
I figured it out eventually. After the front cover is removed the screws are exposed and it is pretty easy. Every video I found skips this first step so it can be a little confusing in how to get started.