Hey everyone! If you want to learn more about the topic of advanced car audio integration I recommend watching this video as well - All Pass Filters Explained - ua-cam.com/video/q9kwkLhLUt0/v-deo.html Don't forget you can get $20 to use on your next car audio purchase with our show sponsor Crutchfield here - www.crutchfield.com/I-rCAFcYTB/rf/ef28766d-4881-4df6-9f8b-287145ad3d36/ Thanks for watching!
My 2024 BMW M340i with the Harmon Kardon audio system I replaced the amp and booster with the Alpha One amp which is an 11 channel class D amp with integrated dsp. To add an additional sub I bought an Audison AFD1 which powers a single JL Audio 10w6-d4 v3 in a custom carbon fiber sealed enclosure made to fit on the trunk’s driver’s side pocket. I also replaced the LCR soeakers with Morel Reference component seperates and the 8” underseat subs are Audison now as a dedicated midbass making my front stage a 3 way setup having each set of drivers play the optimal frequencies they are best at with passive xovers and active xover in the dsp of the Alpha one. It makes the sound stage more defined with better clarity and detail.
I am in the middle of the same upgrade. I went straight to the ATF MatchUP 10DSP. I've tuned it with the factory drivers but intend on installing the Morel IR kit and a JL 10W6 sub in the trunk. I have the enclosure on order. My car is a G22 M440i
That would be nuts to have a exhaust sound playing with active noise canceling all going through your amps and subs while also having the gains crancked all the way up like most guys do! LOL.
I finally installed a decent system in my 2020 Mitsubishi and it was... a learning experience! I wanted to swap in a ridiculous 10" head unit, but when I saw the cost of all the integration gadgets required (iDatalink et al), I noped out of that plan pretty quickly. I ended up keeping the factory radio, with a KeyLOC -> 12ch DSP -> 5ch amp (for now). All things considered, it sounds way better than I expected, so either the noise floor is low enough or my tinnitus is worse than I thought. Either way, this nerd is happy with it. I plan on doing more sound treatment and maybe sneaking a front sub in a few months, when Canada goes back to not-garbage-weather.
Around 10 grand later, new DSP, focal active system with Helix DSP, subwoofers, sound deading and I’m completely stuck on integrating my DSP. 2 shops it’s been too and everyone is lost. Finally found someone who is setting me up with a device from Metra to bypass the Bose amplifier. 24 GMC.
@@AdBul_ true just like airpods/Bluetooth audio quality is good enough for most consumers. Once you hear a pretty good aftermarket sound system though it's hard to go back and say it's good enough
What’s up guys. I have a 2002 Opel Astra which is probably a Chevrolet Astra in North America (I don’t think it was even sold in the US). It has steering wheel controls and a blaupunkt oem cd player headunit. I love the SWC, but to make them work with an aftermarket head unit, you’re looking at spending ~80 USD for an interface. I won’t be doing this, as I am on a budget. However, the car has a 8 speaker system, a speaker and tweeter in every door. A really high end system for 2002, especially for a budget car. Most of my experience is with Japanese vehicles, so everything is pretty simple and straightforward; the most complex I’ve come across was in my 91 SW20 MR2 which in higher spec trim had a 5 speaker system, 2 in each door and a small sub box behind the passengers seat. Thanks for reading my rant 😂
I have a 2020 Cadillac XT6 with the Bose Performance system. It's been so hard to find anything aftermarket adapters or also anything. I would love to add an JL amp and speakers.
I always wondered what it's like to upgrade these newer vehicles as far as head units or anything. The last easy head unit replacement I did I think was on a 2007 CRV. Now I have a 2012 Corolla and I have no idea how you would replace that. So I can't imagine what these newer cars are like. But thanks for breaking it down
Hi Mark. First, I would like to say thank you for providing so many helpful videos. I am currently working on a build for my 2024 cadillac. Without being able to upgrade the head unit, I'm planning on running 3 JL Vxi amps 2 for components and 1 for sub. Question is, will adding audio control pre amp components be beneficial or not needed?
In addition to what you mentioned about removing the fake exhaust sounds, at least with BMW/Mini you can buy ASD bypass harnesses from the likes of Audison or Match for relatively little cost. I had to do this as the drone from additional sub made driving unbearable.
Acura owner here. I own a TLX 2017. Honda is notorious for having like a 3-second delay coming from the head unit while using bluetooth. Is there a way to bypass this? Apparently it's a bug or something. There hasn't been an update in years to correct this issue. Would a DSP work?
Have you done a video on how to do sound systems on EVs? I have an all electric Nissan Leaf with Bose system. I checked Crutch Field for options but they don't have any recommendations.
Hi, My name is David. I have a Toyota tundra 2022 and i put a after market amplifier to my truck and have a loud static noise. I tried to due all you explain on your video, a new ground for the amp and i bought a krystal rca that you recomend and the sound get worse. The question is how can i get rid of this anoying sound. Other thing is the signal from the factoy radio is conected directly to the preamp without loc. I apretiated your
Hi got a question checking ur preout voltage with a multimeter do you add the voltage u get from the one rca coming out by x2 or does it stay the same.like if on input of rcs left read 2.6v and the and right side read 2.6v does it make it 5.2v ourput or does it stay 2.6v....
I'm trying to fit a system to my ford focus mk4. And some of these issues are coming up. Found out the b&o amp doesn't handle the tweeters or the centre speaker. Front mids go to back. Now thinking I need to run cables to rear from tweeters and sum them with mids as one high level, then dsp, then grab the signal at the door and feed new wires to dash to supply highs from the 2 channels powering the front mid and highs. It's so difficult! My Helix dsp will hopefully cope with creating a load for the old amp to run normally....
I have an 04 Hyundai Santa Fe with the Monsoon “premium” sound system that has a factory amp and I wanted to just switch the head unit. Because the aftermarket head unit is already amplified I wanted to bypass the factory amp but the adapter doesn’t exist. Any suggestions besides running new speaker wire to each speaker from the new head unit?
If you just want to install an aftermarket radio just use a 4 channel loc to be able to adjust down the volume so it's not blaring loud at volume 10. Or many new radios have level control built in as well. Otherwise you'll have to run a chunk of 9 conductor speed cable to under the front passenger seat and bypass the amplifier there
Im actually have a problem similar to the last segment in this video. 2020 freightliner cascadia plays lane departure sounds through front speakers. The factory speakers had 4 prongs. After I upgraded I constantly get left or right speaker problem detection. Really annoying. Speaker still works but the on screen flash’s constantly. They shop who installed wired all 4 wires to the 2 prong after market speakers. This just gave me constant speaker problem detactions
One of the easiest vehicles to do anything to. But as Mark said, replace that ancient thing with a new double din. They look awesome and work so much better than a 20 year old OEM cd player
I have a 2024 rav4 limited which came with the JBL system. It was the only rav4 available in my area and the wait would be 6 mo to a year. The audio quality is pretty lame but the head unit itself is fine. Plus there is no recommended head unit options as far as I know. I really just want to swap out the amp and speakers and add a line output converter. according to crutchfield there is no solution they can recommend. Maybe someone or even mark knows something I appreciate it 🤙
In my vehicle the volume jumps up once I open the car doors, this wasn't a problem until I got a DSP. A few days ago while we were playing music at our max volume (75%) the volume boosted after we open the doors and sent my subwoofers into mayhem. What's the fix ?
gets more complicated with newer vehicles these days I didnt know about the signal correction thing from the anc mics all I thought it did was just make the hum through it I just went under the dash and pulled the plug to the anc module on my car dont know if it helped or not
I am so tired of these complicated systems in modern cars. I decided to just be basic and add a sub and amp to my JBL system in my 2020 Toyota. I ran into issue #5 with the sub output. Had to wire some 25 ohm resistors in with my LOC, otherwise the signal would modulate in intensity on a 20 second cycle.
What really sucks is when you own a vehicle you can't do shit to because there are no aftermarket solutions and you can't do it on your own because the vehicle driving modes somehow are intertwined into the factory radio. You can go about it in certain ways but you must move certain buttons to another location in the vehicle. You gotta cut stuff up. Vehicle is a 2012 Regal GS with the Harmon Kardon Audio.
@yugotime1598 Do a completely stand alone system. Hide the head unit under a seat or in the center console. There's some really small head units that were made for use on motorcycles.
@ahberlowkz852 doing that I would have to manage integration with the OEM unit still, or else the vehicle sets all sorts of random codes. These can not be cleared or simply turned off. It sucks. This is the worst vehicle I've ever had to work with and I've begrudgingly left it all stock die to this.
@@yugotime1598works fine on the GS. If it's OEM color screen then it won't interface to HK but if it was my car I'd gut that and do new speakers and amplifiers personally
I have a base model 2012 Toyota LandCruiser Prado 150. Because it’s a base model, it just had a basic head unit. It was so easy to replace it with a nicer unit, and to add an amp and subwoofer, and replace all the speakers. Compared to the GXL and higher spec models, it’s (reportedly) SUCH a massive faff to replace the head unit and do any audio system upgrades due to the added (shitty) OEM amplifier and integration with climate control. The GX has none of that shit. #BaseModelBestModel
Modern vehicles are a nightmare for having fun. Sure, they have some cool features, but they are usually done in the absolute dumbest ways and are definitely not built to last.
Hey everyone! If you want to learn more about the topic of advanced car audio integration I recommend watching this video as well -
All Pass Filters Explained - ua-cam.com/video/q9kwkLhLUt0/v-deo.html
Don't forget you can get $20 to use on your next car audio purchase with our show sponsor Crutchfield here - www.crutchfield.com/I-rCAFcYTB/rf/ef28766d-4881-4df6-9f8b-287145ad3d36/
Thanks for watching!
My 2024 BMW M340i with the Harmon Kardon audio system I replaced the amp and booster with the Alpha One amp which is an 11 channel class D amp with integrated dsp. To add an additional sub I bought an Audison AFD1 which powers a single JL Audio 10w6-d4 v3 in a custom carbon fiber sealed enclosure made to fit on the trunk’s driver’s side pocket. I also replaced the LCR soeakers with Morel Reference component seperates and the 8” underseat subs are Audison now as a dedicated midbass making my front stage a 3 way setup having each set of drivers play the optimal frequencies they are best at with passive xovers and active xover in the dsp of the Alpha one. It makes the sound stage more defined with better clarity and detail.
I am in the middle of the same upgrade. I went straight to the ATF MatchUP 10DSP. I've tuned it with the factory drivers but intend on installing the Morel IR kit and a JL 10W6 sub in the trunk. I have the enclosure on order. My car is a G22 M440i
That would be nuts to have a exhaust sound playing with active noise canceling all going through your amps and subs while also having the gains crancked all the way up like most guys do! LOL.
I finally installed a decent system in my 2020 Mitsubishi and it was... a learning experience! I wanted to swap in a ridiculous 10" head unit, but when I saw the cost of all the integration gadgets required (iDatalink et al), I noped out of that plan pretty quickly. I ended up keeping the factory radio, with a KeyLOC -> 12ch DSP -> 5ch amp (for now). All things considered, it sounds way better than I expected, so either the noise floor is low enough or my tinnitus is worse than I thought. Either way, this nerd is happy with it. I plan on doing more sound treatment and maybe sneaking a front sub in a few months, when Canada goes back to not-garbage-weather.
Around 10 grand later, new DSP, focal active system with Helix DSP, subwoofers, sound deading and I’m completely stuck on integrating my DSP. 2 shops it’s been too and everyone is lost. Finally found someone who is setting me up with a device from Metra to bypass the Bose amplifier. 24 GMC.
for the price of new cars we shouldnt have to modify the radio and speakers just to have good sound.
Most new cars have good enough sound from the factory for 90% of people. You just are in the car audio bubble, and want something better.
@@AdBul_ true just like airpods/Bluetooth audio quality is good enough for most consumers. Once you hear a pretty good aftermarket sound system though it's hard to go back and say it's good enough
What’s up guys. I have a 2002 Opel Astra which is probably a Chevrolet Astra in North America (I don’t think it was even sold in the US). It has steering wheel controls and a blaupunkt oem cd player headunit.
I love the SWC, but to make them work with an aftermarket head unit, you’re looking at spending ~80 USD for an interface. I won’t be doing this, as I am on a budget.
However, the car has a 8 speaker system, a speaker and tweeter in every door. A really high end system for 2002, especially for a budget car.
Most of my experience is with Japanese vehicles, so everything is pretty simple and straightforward; the most complex I’ve come across was in my 91 SW20 MR2 which in higher spec trim had a 5 speaker system, 2 in each door and a small sub box behind the passengers seat.
Thanks for reading my rant 😂
Finally, I have something many saying this was not happening. But them subwoofers be hittin when you press the excelleration pedal.
Add a resistance for #5, in the same way we do if we add led bulbs for turn signals.. Thanks great video, Regards from Mexico
I have a 2020 Cadillac XT6 with the Bose Performance system. It's been so hard to find anything aftermarket adapters or also anything. I would love to add an JL amp and speakers.
I always wondered what it's like to upgrade these newer vehicles as far as head units or anything. The last easy head unit replacement I did I think was on a 2007 CRV. Now I have a 2012 Corolla and I have no idea how you would replace that. So I can't imagine what these newer cars are like. But thanks for breaking it down
Quite simple....metra makes the kit and harness. Really basic honestly compared to some newer stuff
Hi Mark. First, I would like to say thank you for providing so many helpful videos. I am currently working on a build for my 2024 cadillac. Without being able to upgrade the head unit, I'm planning on running 3 JL Vxi amps 2 for components and 1 for sub. Question is, will adding audio control pre amp components be beneficial or not needed?
In addition to what you mentioned about removing the fake exhaust sounds, at least with BMW/Mini you can buy ASD bypass harnesses from the likes of Audison or Match for relatively little cost. I had to do this as the drone from additional sub made driving unbearable.
Acura owner here. I own a TLX 2017. Honda is notorious for having like a 3-second delay coming from the head unit while using bluetooth. Is there a way to bypass this? Apparently it's a bug or something. There hasn't been an update in years to correct this issue. Would a DSP work?
Have you done a video on how to do sound systems on EVs? I have an all electric Nissan Leaf with Bose system. I checked Crutch Field for options but they don't have any recommendations.
Great video
On a fully active system you normally take out the centre channel. Or is it best to keep it. I have a 23 ranger with mObridge intergration.
Hi, My name is David. I have a Toyota tundra 2022 and i put a after market amplifier to my truck and have a loud static noise. I tried to due all you explain on your video, a new ground for the amp and i bought a krystal rca that you recomend and the sound get worse. The question is how can i get rid of this anoying sound. Other thing is the signal from the factoy radio is conected directly to the preamp without loc. I apretiated your
Hi Mark I like all your videos, which is the best DAP for my Audi 2022 with Bang & Olufsen ? Thanks
That's why I hate these newer vehicles.
Hi got a question checking ur preout voltage with a multimeter do you add the voltage u get from the one rca coming out by x2 or does it stay the same.like if on input of rcs left read 2.6v and the and right side read 2.6v does it make it 5.2v ourput or does it stay 2.6v....
I'm trying to fit a system to my ford focus mk4. And some of these issues are coming up. Found out the b&o amp doesn't handle the tweeters or the centre speaker. Front mids go to back. Now thinking I need to run cables to rear from tweeters and sum them with mids as one high level, then dsp, then grab the signal at the door and feed new wires to dash to supply highs from the 2 channels powering the front mid and highs. It's so difficult! My Helix dsp will hopefully cope with creating a load for the old amp to run normally....
I have an 04 Hyundai Santa Fe with the Monsoon “premium” sound system that has a factory amp and I wanted to just switch the head unit. Because the aftermarket head unit is already amplified I wanted to bypass the factory amp but the adapter doesn’t exist. Any suggestions besides running new speaker wire to each speaker from the new head unit?
If you just want to install an aftermarket radio just use a 4 channel loc to be able to adjust down the volume so it's not blaring loud at volume 10. Or many new radios have level control built in as well. Otherwise you'll have to run a chunk of 9 conductor speed cable to under the front passenger seat and bypass the amplifier there
Im actually have a problem similar to the last segment in this video. 2020 freightliner cascadia plays lane departure sounds through front speakers. The factory speakers had 4 prongs. After I upgraded I constantly get left or right speaker problem detection. Really annoying.
Speaker still works but the on screen flash’s constantly. They shop who installed wired all 4 wires to the 2 prong after market speakers. This just gave me constant speaker problem detactions
Damn you just made me not wanting to my factory unit in my 2006 Silverado.
06 Is nearly 20 years old. Very easy to install into, but might as well just install an aftermarket head unit! Easy!
One of the easiest vehicles to do anything to. But as Mark said, replace that ancient thing with a new double din. They look awesome and work so much better than a 20 year old OEM cd player
There seems to be pretty good aftermarket support for late model BMW's...
I have a 2024 rav4 limited which came with the JBL system. It was the only rav4 available in my area and the wait would be 6 mo to a year. The audio quality is pretty lame but the head unit itself is fine. Plus there is no recommended head unit options as far as I know. I really just want to swap out the amp and speakers and add a line output converter. according to crutchfield there is no solution they can recommend. Maybe someone or even mark knows something I appreciate it 🤙
By any chance have you installed an aftermarket amp and subs in a 23' Mitsubishi Outlander SE basically a Nissan rouge?
In my vehicle the volume jumps up once I open the car doors, this wasn't a problem until I got a DSP. A few days ago while we were playing music at our max volume (75%) the volume boosted after we open the doors and sent my subwoofers into mayhem. What's the fix ?
Do you have a video explaining how to replace a set of component factory speakers for coaxial speakers?
I have a video coming up about the JL Audio C3 Convertible Coaxial/Component Speakers I think you will enjoy! Thanks for tuning in.
@@CarAudioFabrication any information on how to get a clean signal for a subwoofer amp in a 2021+ Yukon Denali, Tahoe, Escalade
gets more complicated with newer vehicles these days I didnt know about the signal correction thing from the anc mics all I thought it did was just make the hum through it I just went under the dash and pulled the plug to the anc module on my car dont know if it helped or not
I just removed the microphones in a 2023 malibu. 4 of them and then your good
I am so tired of these complicated systems in modern cars. I decided to just be basic and add a sub and amp to my JBL system in my 2020 Toyota. I ran into issue #5 with the sub output. Had to wire some 25 ohm resistors in with my LOC, otherwise the signal would modulate in intensity on a 20 second cycle.
What do you recommend using to integrate an aftermarket amp into a 2019 for flex. There is no replacement for the factory head unit.
Idatalink Maestro makes a kit for either head unit you have. The 4.2 inch screen or the 8 inch screen. And they look and function incredibly well
@@melissathompson7229 Wow! I didn't know this was made! Out with the factory and in with the Alpine!! Thank you so much!!
@@swurtz060506you're welcome
I miss the days of single din head unit swaps. 30 mins or less and done.
What really sucks is when you own a vehicle you can't do shit to because there are no aftermarket solutions and you can't do it on your own because the vehicle driving modes somehow are intertwined into the factory radio. You can go about it in certain ways but you must move certain buttons to another location in the vehicle. You gotta cut stuff up. Vehicle is a 2012 Regal GS with the Harmon Kardon Audio.
@yugotime1598 Do a completely stand alone system. Hide the head unit under a seat or in the center console. There's some really small head units that were made for use on motorcycles.
What do you mean? Metra makes the dash kit and interface to add a new head unit and keep all of your factory options functional
@melissathompson7229 correct, but not for the GS with HK audio, and no you can't just force it to work either.
@ahberlowkz852 doing that I would have to manage integration with the OEM unit still, or else the vehicle sets all sorts of random codes. These can not be cleared or simply turned off. It sucks. This is the worst vehicle I've ever had to work with and I've begrudgingly left it all stock die to this.
@@yugotime1598works fine on the GS. If it's OEM color screen then it won't interface to HK but if it was my car I'd gut that and do new speakers and amplifiers personally
Seems like we’ll have a secondary stereo in the glove compartment unfortunately
A good way around a lot of this is a seperate DSP tune that just uses a signal from a high res player or even a phone
Seems stupid to have V8 sounds played thru the speakers versus just getting the V8 in the first place.
I have a base model 2012 Toyota LandCruiser Prado 150. Because it’s a base model, it just had a basic head unit. It was so easy to replace it with a nicer unit, and to add an amp and subwoofer, and replace all the speakers.
Compared to the GXL and higher spec models, it’s (reportedly) SUCH a massive faff to replace the head unit and do any audio system upgrades due to the added (shitty) OEM amplifier and integration with climate control. The GX has none of that shit. #BaseModelBestModel
Modern vehicles are a nightmare for having fun. Sure, they have some cool features, but they are usually done in the absolute dumbest ways and are definitely not built to last.
Great video