Thank you for your video. I actually did this job to help a brother from Church. Your instructions were very clear and easy to follow. I was able to finish it within an hour just because I couldn't find my right sockets. I ended up getting a short 17 with a ratchet and the bracket behind the alternator, I just used a breaker bar and the rest was so easy. Thank you for helping countless people around the world.
Best way to do it. Instead of trying to remember the steps or bolt sizes, and fumbling with your phone. Even though this is an was easy one, sometimes we forget something.
I’ve never commented on a UA-cam video, I’ve watched tons for repairing cars, this is by far the best one I’ve ever seen, great views, great detail and explanations, great work and thank you for doing what you do this will definitely be a big help for me this weekend
Awesome instructions my dude! The job was painless thanks to you. Because I had my daughter, I did not have to put anything to hold the tentioner. THANK YOU!
I can't lie, it's annoying how clean your vehicle is up under the hood compared to mine... A little bit jelly right there my dude 💪🏼💯 Thanks for all the uploads on this particular vehicle.
Thanks for the video! Just an observation - every video for this job has a splice/cut scene a the 8:27 mark where the electrical socket is removed. You have to press that thing HARD with your thumb and wriggle it with your other hand while pulling up. Good times!
Damn that doesn’t sound right lol. You need to pull out the voltmeter and do some voltage testing! A good battery should be 12.5v when cold. When running, should be between 13.7-14.7v. Low to mid 14v is ideal. Also make sure all the battery terminals/connections are on point!
another great 5th gen Altima video.... I'm going to keep my 2016 SL alive as long as possible and these will definitely help. If you need an idea for another video, I'd love to see how you would replace the e-power steering fluid..... when you open up the reservoir, there seems to be no room for traditional "turkey baster" fluid removal, so I guess you'd have to disconnect a hose from the bottom. Hope you decide to do this one, thanks.
Good to know. With my luck it would be too tight and I would struggle because there always has to be at least one hitch to repair no matter how easy it is. 🤣🤣
Omg I have a 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 sl and I was told I need an new alternator I'm a single parent of 2 and of course in a female an alot of men be trying to act like I don't know what I'm talking about I appreciate this video because if I have to try and do it myself I will most definitely try....how much do u charge for that replacement? Are u located near North Carolina 🙏🏾
Thank you so much for the video it was perfect But my battery light still comes on once in a while I did not change the belt Do you think it could be That? Is there any relay to change?
Appreciate the comment! The battery light is triggered by low voltage. You need to monitor the voltage, and confirm the low voltage and see when it’s happening, and how low its dipping. What can make doing this hard is these cars have VVCS, Variable Voltage Control System. Which in a nutshell means when the charging system thinks the battery is fully charged, the alternator will stop charging it for whatever time period it sees fit. This system makes an issue like this harder to diagnose. On older, traditional vehicles…like a 2000 Altima for example, if you monitored the voltage while driving, it would be constantly above 14V the entire time its running (if charging system was functioning properly). So if a 2000 Altima was driving and the voltage was at 12.9v for example, I would immediately know the alternator is bad. …..Now on these cars with the VVCS, if you monitored the voltage driving, you will see it charging above 14V, but you will also see it dip as low as 12V while driving….and that’s perfectly normal. If I had to guess your issue, I would probably say its a defective alternator. But like I said I would definitely recommend some voltage testing for confirmation. First thing is check the battery while cold. So after car hasn’t been running for 5-6 hours, check battery voltage. A good battery when cold should be 12.5v or higher. You might see it at 12.3-12.4v when temps are cold, and thats fine. But if that battery is like 11.8v, 12.0v, etc. its on its way out. So good battery should be 12.5v when car is off. If battery tests good, monitor voltage of car while running. Immediately after turning the car on check voltage at battery terminals and you should see it above 14v at least while idling. If this checks out, I would monitor voltage while driving and see how low its dipping. You will need an OBDII Bluetooth dongle to do this, like a Veepeak BLE+ partnered with the Car Scanner app for example. You could even get a cigarette lighter plug that has a voltage meter on it. For most of the drive, especially shorter drives you will see it charging 14.0v+. But on longer drives it will dip as low as 12v and thats normal like I mentioned. If you see it going into the 11s or 10s in voltage, I would say alternator is defective. So essentially just need to do some voltage monitoring!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Thank you so much for getting back to me, checked the battery 1st thing in this morning was 12.87 It was in the high 30ﾟ overnight I changed the belt last night, new Alternator the night before, Battery light comes on while driving seems to not come on for A-day or 2 after disconnecting the negative cable off the battery like the computer resetting itself then Battery light starts coming back on When battery light is on volts are only around 12 if not high 11 And headlights Dimming definitely a problem How can I check the VVCS?? It definitely stops for a while after disconnecting the battery
@@williammarkward2088 before you dig any further, make sure, and I mean make sure the ground connection on battery is on point. Even if you think it is, and even if you cleaned the battery terminal already where it posts to the battery, take it apart and clean it again in its entirety. Take off 10mm and remove negative terminal, and take off 12mm remove the neg. terminal from the wire entirely, and clean every mating surface. Might even be worth taking the ground wire off in its entirety from the car, and the ground point…and cleaning every connection point. Make sure the battery current sensor harness is clean (this is harness plugging into negative batt. terminal), looks like this: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2014,altima,2.5l+l4,3305930,electrical,battery+current+sensor,13536 ..and making a secure connection and plugged in. Make sure the entire ground wire setup is clean, tight and on-point. Typically, with this car..and really all Nissans, the battery light is triggered by low voltage from alternator. Could also be a potential ground issue. The battery light (charge warning lamp) is controlled by the “L” terminal, which is the 3 wire plug going into the alternator. Make sure this harness plugging into alternator is secure, connected and making a secure connection and locking in. The battery light comes on when the ignition is turned on, or started…..So you should see the battery light illuminated with the ignition just turned to the “on” position. When the alternator is providing sufficient voltage while the engine is running, this turns the battery light off. Obviously if the lamp is illuminated while engine running, there is an issue. There is a regulator built into the alternator, the regulator warning function activates and illuminates the battery light when excessive voltage is produced, or low/no voltage. I think the voltage might be dipping to low at whatever point your driving, triggering the battery light. So unless you have an open or a short, or a bad connection, more than likely its the alternator like I initially suggested. As far as the VVCS, the only way I’m aware of testing it/disengaging it, is with Nissan’s Consult. But I don’t think the VVCS system is your problem. The VVCS is controlled by the ECU. The battery current sensor on the negative terminal detects the charging/discharging current of the battery. The ECU judges the battery’s condition based on this signal. The ECU judges whether to request more output via the VVCS according to the battery condition. The adjustment range for the VVCS system is between 11.7v-15.3v. So really anything outside of that voltage range would be indicating an issue. So last resort could be a bad current sensor. They aren’t cheap though, so I wouldn’t just go buying one without verifying everything else first. Keep in mind, aftermarket parts are completely shit these days. I’ve gotten two bad alternators for this car myself. They didn’t electrically fail…they mechanically failed, as in the bearing went bad on pulley causing terrible belt-drive noise. Your replacement alternator could be defective in the opposite way, which would be electrically. Just don’t assume the alternator is good because its new is basically all I’m saying. I know that sounds crazy but I’m seeing cheap defective “new” parts more than ever so don’t assume it can’t be defective! And that should be a free warranty swap with no expensive to you. So start cheap & free! Clean and make sure all grounds are on point, and if that doesn’t work I would do a warranty exchange on the alternator. Thats my .02 from experience and information from the FSM for this car.
I had a situation where I thought my new starter knock sensor connector had broken off when I tried to install it myself. (mechanic told me this). Auto Zone simply had me swap it out for a new one no charge, so it might be worth it for him to just swap out for a new alternator. Side note:Turns out the mechanic was “mistaken” after he learned that I was bringing a new starter in, and he couldn’t charge me for a new starter. Hmmmm. This was for a Suburban and I couldn’t get the starter in because it was too heavy and awkward. So had to take it to a nearby shop that I wasn’t familiar with.
@@kevinneal2575 It was the automator took it back to autozone, bought one from Napa and it's working fine. I've forgotten that Napa is the best place to get electronics stuff from.
I have the 2014 S 2.5L. It says "QR25" on the engine. Do you know if that's the same as "QR25DE"? Also, did you purchase the alternator from advance auto parts? And if so, did you get refurbished, or brand new?
Yes, it’s the same thing. The entire name for the 2.5 motor is “QR25DE”, but you will commonly see it referred to in abbreviated form, such as “QR25” or just “QR”. But if you have a 2.5 4 cylinder Altima, then it’s a QR25DE engine. And I reviewed the alternator I purchased @15:52.
Prices are all over the place for alternators for this car, I believe this one I paid around $200. The alternator was replaced due to the pulley bearing going bad and making unpleasant noises!
I hear a whine coming from my Alternator that increases with acceleration. The car just started a slight hard shift as well particularly when slowing down to a stop sign. Anyone know if the hard shift could be another sign of a bad alternator?
Hey Bee Cee can I get some help? I can't get the bottom bolt of the alternator. I was able to break it without a problem. Then I'm almost got it all the way but now it's stuck. I prob just need to get a quarter inch out. I guess the bolt is seized? I was thinking about get a blow torch. Any thoughts?
@@jameselizondo9583 did you get it? How hard are you trying to get it to finish coming out? Does it feel like its on the verge of breaking? Because it could just be hung up and need a little extra umphh lol, especially considering that it broke free no problem and backed out that far.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Yes I finally got it. So the bottom bolt was pinched. I tried to wiggle the alternator around to get it out but that thing wasn't moving. Finally I got a crowbar and with the top bolt out, I moved the alternator down. It easily came out after that. But my lord getting it back in is a pain in the ass. Got it though. Overall it was fun and I basically took it step by step with your video
@@mr.lonely3154 if you have a sedan then it should have electric steering. In 2013 Nissan also offered the coupe, which is technically a 4th gen. with power steering pump. So thats why when searching for a belt for a 2013 it reflects electric or not. But really they should be just asking coupe or sedan. But since you have a sedan, you have electric.
Hey do you know if Veleo Alternator is the OEM for this car? I have a 2013 Altima and don't feel like paying the dealer 600 dollar for the same alternative that could be 200
No, I don’t know unfortunately. The OEM was only marked with Nissan labeling, no alternator branding on it to indicate what the manufacturer is. At least that I noticed anyway. Even looking at an original out of another car, like this: www.ebay.com/itm/184263613624?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 ..I don’t see anything other than Nissan numbering.
I haven’t been under the hood of 6th generation Altima yet, so I can’t say for certain. But if it’s a 2.5, I’d imagine it’s pretty similar. Easiest way to find out is pop the hood on your car & compare to what you see in the video!
Hello, I'm Haider from the Arab world. I own a 2018 Nissan Altima, I need a 2018 Altima repair and maintenance manual in order to do some periodic maintenance required for a car, please, not an order. Thank you
![2013-2018 Nissan Altima Valve Cover Gasket Replacement [2.5L QR25DE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UikOJRZcM-U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for your video. I actually did this job to help a brother from Church. Your instructions were very clear and easy to follow. I was able to finish it within an hour just because I couldn't find my right sockets. I ended up getting a short 17 with a ratchet and the bracket behind the alternator, I just used a breaker bar and the rest was so easy. Thank you for helping countless people around the world.
Nice! Good to hear! I appreciate your comment 🙏
thanks. made my job easy for me. mechanic wanted to charge me 3 hours of labor. thanks to your video I did it in an hour start to finish.
Awesome man glad to hear it helped! Appreciate the comment
I'll second that "awesome man" 💯
Thanks man. Been studying this for a week and fixed my car today. Brother from another mother🫂
🙏🙏🙏🙏 awesome man! Glad you got it done 👊
Best way to do it. Instead of trying to remember the steps or bolt sizes, and fumbling with your phone. Even though this is an was easy one, sometimes we forget something.
I’ve never commented on a UA-cam video, I’ve watched tons for repairing cars, this is by far the best one I’ve ever seen, great views, great detail and explanations, great work and thank you for doing what you do this will definitely be a big help for me this weekend
I truly appreciate the comment! Good luck with the replacement 👍
Awesome instructions my dude! The job was painless thanks to you. Because I had my daughter, I did not have to put anything to hold the tentioner. THANK YOU!
Awesome! Appreciate the comment!!!
Great Video! Wish everyone made videos in detail like yours! Such a great help! Thank you!
I appreciate that! Thank you 🙏🙏🙏
I can't lie, it's annoying how clean your vehicle is up under the hood compared to mine...
A little bit jelly right there my dude 💪🏼💯
Thanks for all the uploads on this particular vehicle.
Hahaa well i detail….so that helps lol. I appreciate the comment tho bro 🙏🙏🙏
I'm glad to see you still have it, You have no idea how much your vids about it help me out. thank you!
Thank you! I appreciate your comment!!
Thanks for the video! Just an observation - every video for this job has a splice/cut scene a the 8:27 mark where the electrical socket is removed. You have to press that thing HARD with your thumb and wriggle it with your other hand while pulling up. Good times!
Lol I don’t even remember doing that. It probably fought me a hair and i cut right to it removing to save a few seconds lol. Funny observation.
Great help , it was easy to change with the right tools and added a new battery , but my car still need a jump start to run 😅
Damn that doesn’t sound right lol. You need to pull out the voltmeter and do some voltage testing! A good battery should be 12.5v when cold. When running, should be between 13.7-14.7v. Low to mid 14v is ideal. Also make sure all the battery terminals/connections are on point!
All my respect for this man!! Explain everything perfect 💪🏻🫡
Thanks man! I truly appreciate the comment!
Awesome video, great instruction. Appreciate it.
Thank you! Appreciate the comment
another great 5th gen Altima video.... I'm going to keep my 2016 SL alive as long as possible and these will definitely help. If you need an idea for another video, I'd love to see how you would replace the e-power steering fluid..... when you open up the reservoir, there seems to be no room for traditional "turkey baster" fluid removal, so I guess you'd have to disconnect a hose from the bottom. Hope you decide to do this one, thanks.
Thanks Glenn appreciate the comment! And one of these days I’ll definitely try to get to it!!
I just saw this clip and it's very helpful and I Just Subscribed . More Power to you !!
I appreciate it thank you!
Excellent breakdown. Thank you
Thank you! Appreciate the comment!
On my 2016 A-SL, 2.5I, I found myself having to go to the second tensioner hole to get my S-Belt loose.
Good to know. With my luck it would be too tight and I would struggle because there always has to be at least one hitch to repair no matter how easy it is. 🤣🤣
Thank you brotha🙏🏽 needed that belt diagram
Appreciate the comment bro 🙏
Omg I have a 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 sl and I was told I need an new alternator I'm a single parent of 2 and of course in a female an alot of men be trying to act like I don't know what I'm talking about I appreciate this video because if I have to try and do it myself I will most definitely try....how much do u charge for that replacement? Are u located near North Carolina 🙏🏾
What issues are you experiencing that you were told you need a new alternator? And I’m actually located in NJ!
Altima 5.5 I'm going to ride the 2017 version I'm looking to buy a shoba mount assembly, which brand is good between fcs prt?
Thank you so much for the video it was perfect But my battery light still comes on once in a while I did not change the belt Do you think it could be That? Is there any relay to change?
Appreciate the comment!
The battery light is triggered by low voltage. You need to monitor the voltage, and confirm the low voltage and see when it’s happening, and how low its dipping.
What can make doing this hard is these cars have VVCS, Variable Voltage Control System. Which in a nutshell means when the charging system thinks the battery is fully charged, the alternator will stop charging it for whatever time period it sees fit. This system makes an issue like this harder to diagnose.
On older, traditional vehicles…like a 2000 Altima for example, if you monitored the voltage while driving, it would be constantly above 14V the entire time its running (if charging system was functioning properly). So if a 2000 Altima was driving and the voltage was at 12.9v for example, I would immediately know the alternator is bad. …..Now on these cars with the VVCS, if you monitored the voltage driving, you will see it charging above 14V, but you will also see it dip as low as 12V while driving….and that’s perfectly normal.
If I had to guess your issue, I would probably say its a defective alternator. But like I said I would definitely recommend some voltage testing for confirmation. First thing is check the battery while cold. So after car hasn’t been running for 5-6 hours, check battery voltage. A good battery when cold should be 12.5v or higher. You might see it at 12.3-12.4v when temps are cold, and thats fine. But if that battery is like 11.8v, 12.0v, etc. its on its way out. So good battery should be 12.5v when car is off.
If battery tests good, monitor voltage of car while running. Immediately after turning the car on check voltage at battery terminals and you should see it above 14v at least while idling. If this checks out, I would monitor voltage while driving and see how low its dipping. You will need an OBDII Bluetooth dongle to do this, like a Veepeak BLE+ partnered with the Car Scanner app for example. You could even get a cigarette lighter plug that has a voltage meter on it. For most of the drive, especially shorter drives you will see it charging 14.0v+. But on longer drives it will dip as low as 12v and thats normal like I mentioned. If you see it going into the 11s or 10s in voltage, I would say alternator is defective.
So essentially just need to do some voltage monitoring!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Thank you so much for getting back to me, checked the battery 1st thing in this morning was 12.87 It was in the high 30ﾟ overnight I changed the belt last night, new Alternator the night before, Battery light comes on while driving seems to not come on for A-day or 2 after disconnecting the negative cable off the battery like the computer resetting itself then Battery light starts coming back on When battery light is on volts are only around 12 if not high 11 And headlights Dimming definitely a problem How can I check the VVCS?? It definitely stops for a while after disconnecting the battery
@@williammarkward2088 before you dig any further, make sure, and I mean make sure the ground connection on battery is on point. Even if you think it is, and even if you cleaned the battery terminal already where it posts to the battery, take it apart and clean it again in its entirety. Take off 10mm and remove negative terminal, and take off 12mm remove the neg. terminal from the wire entirely, and clean every mating surface. Might even be worth taking the ground wire off in its entirety from the car, and the ground point…and cleaning every connection point.
Make sure the battery current sensor harness is clean (this is harness plugging into negative batt. terminal), looks like this:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2014,altima,2.5l+l4,3305930,electrical,battery+current+sensor,13536
..and making a secure connection and plugged in. Make sure the entire ground wire setup is clean, tight and on-point.
Typically, with this car..and really all Nissans, the battery light is triggered by low voltage from alternator. Could also be a potential ground issue.
The battery light (charge warning lamp) is controlled by the “L” terminal, which is the 3 wire plug going into the alternator. Make sure this harness plugging into alternator is secure, connected and making a secure connection and locking in.
The battery light comes on when the ignition is turned on, or started…..So you should see the battery light illuminated with the ignition just turned to the “on” position. When the alternator is providing sufficient voltage while the engine is running, this turns the battery light off. Obviously if the lamp is illuminated while engine running, there is an issue.
There is a regulator built into the alternator, the regulator warning function activates and illuminates the battery light when excessive voltage is produced, or low/no voltage. I think the voltage might be dipping to low at whatever point your driving, triggering the battery light.
So unless you have an open or a short, or a bad connection, more than likely its the alternator like I initially suggested.
As far as the VVCS, the only way I’m aware of testing it/disengaging it, is with Nissan’s Consult. But I don’t think the VVCS system is your problem. The VVCS is controlled by the ECU. The battery current sensor on the negative terminal detects the charging/discharging current of the battery. The ECU judges the battery’s condition based on this signal. The ECU judges whether to request more output via the VVCS according to the battery condition. The adjustment range for the VVCS system is between 11.7v-15.3v. So really anything outside of that voltage range would be indicating an issue.
So last resort could be a bad current sensor. They aren’t cheap though, so I wouldn’t just go buying one without verifying everything else first. Keep in mind, aftermarket parts are completely shit these days. I’ve gotten two bad alternators for this car myself. They didn’t electrically fail…they mechanically failed, as in the bearing went bad on pulley causing terrible belt-drive noise. Your replacement alternator could be defective in the opposite way, which would be electrically. Just don’t assume the alternator is good because its new is basically all I’m saying. I know that sounds crazy but I’m seeing cheap defective “new” parts more than ever so don’t assume it can’t be defective! And that should be a free warranty swap with no expensive to you.
So start cheap & free! Clean and make sure all grounds are on point, and if that doesn’t work I would do a warranty exchange on the alternator. Thats my .02 from experience and information from the FSM for this car.
I had a situation where I thought my new starter knock sensor connector had broken off when I tried to install it myself. (mechanic told me this). Auto Zone simply had me swap it out for a new one no charge, so it might be worth it for him to just swap out for a new alternator. Side note:Turns out the mechanic was “mistaken” after he learned that I was bringing a new starter in, and he couldn’t charge me for a new starter. Hmmmm. This was for a Suburban and I couldn’t get the starter in because it was too heavy and awkward. So had to take it to a nearby shop that I wasn’t familiar with.
@@kevinneal2575 It was the automator took it back to autozone, bought one from Napa and it's working fine. I've forgotten that Napa is the best place to get electronics stuff from.
I have the 2014 S 2.5L. It says "QR25" on the engine. Do you know if that's the same as "QR25DE"?
Also, did you purchase the alternator from advance auto parts? And if so, did you get refurbished, or brand new?
Yes, it’s the same thing. The entire name for the 2.5 motor is “QR25DE”, but you will commonly see it referred to in abbreviated form, such as “QR25” or just “QR”. But if you have a 2.5 4 cylinder Altima, then it’s a QR25DE engine.
And I reviewed the alternator I purchased @15:52.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Oh right on man. Appreciate the response 💯💪🏼
Good afternoon !
How much does it cost the new alternetor ?
Why did you change the old one ?
Thank you !
Prices are all over the place for alternators for this car, I believe this one I paid around $200. The alternator was replaced due to the pulley bearing going bad and making unpleasant noises!
I paid over $500 a couple of days ago and it was the exact fit. I won't complain because I need my car.
very functual. thanks for the good tips
Thank you I appreciate it!
Great detail instruction.
Appreciate it!!! 🙏🙏
I hear a whine coming from my Alternator that increases with acceleration. The car just started a slight hard shift as well particularly when slowing down to a stop sign. Anyone know if the hard shift could be another sign of a bad alternator?
What about the wires, what order do they go in?
Hey Bee Cee can I get some help? I can't get the bottom bolt of the alternator. I was able to break it without a problem. Then I'm almost got it all the way but now it's stuck. I prob just need to get a quarter inch out. I guess the bolt is seized? I was thinking about get a blow torch. Any thoughts?
Wait I think using a crowbar will work
@@jameselizondo9583 did you get it? How hard are you trying to get it to finish coming out? Does it feel like its on the verge of breaking? Because it could just be hung up and need a little extra umphh lol, especially considering that it broke free no problem and backed out that far.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Yes I finally got it. So the bottom bolt was pinched. I tried to wiggle the alternator around to get it out but that thing wasn't moving. Finally I got a crowbar and with the top bolt out, I moved the alternator down. It easily came out after that. But my lord getting it back in is a pain in the ass. Got it though. Overall it was fun and I basically took it step by step with your video
@@JamesElizondo-mz7nq awesome man glad you got it! Glad the video helped 👍👍
Great video!
Thanks very much.
Thank you! Appreciate the comment!
Any clue on how to take off power steering pump? On the 5th gen Altimas?
I haven’t had to do one yet on these cars. Its not belt driven though, so its not part of the belt drive.
Do you mind if i ask what is the right belt for nissan altima? Is it electric or not?
Sounds like your asking if it has electric steering or not. Which should only pertain to the 2013. Do you have a 2013 Altima?
@@TheOriginalBeeCee yes i have 2013 altima sedan 2.5L 4 cylinders, i dunno what kind of belt will i buy
@@mr.lonely3154 if you have a sedan then it should have electric steering. In 2013 Nissan also offered the coupe, which is technically a 4th gen. with power steering pump. So thats why when searching for a belt for a 2013 it reflects electric or not. But really they should be just asking coupe or sedan. But since you have a sedan, you have electric.
Awesome video!!!!!!❤
Thank you!
I took the black plastic piece off from behind the radiator cap to get it out.
Yea man! Whatever works!
Hey do you know if Veleo Alternator is the OEM for this car? I have a 2013 Altima and don't feel like paying the dealer 600 dollar for the same alternative that could be 200
No, I don’t know unfortunately. The OEM was only marked with Nissan labeling, no alternator branding on it to indicate what the manufacturer is. At least that I noticed anyway.
Even looking at an original out of another car, like this:
www.ebay.com/itm/184263613624?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
..I don’t see anything other than Nissan numbering.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks brother for the video and the info!
@@TheGaryNinja no problem appreciate the comment!
Excellent, thank you.
🙏🙏🙏
Does this work for a 2019 Altima?
I haven’t been under the hood of 6th generation Altima yet, so I can’t say for certain. But if it’s a 2.5, I’d imagine it’s pretty similar. Easiest way to find out is pop the hood on your car & compare to what you see in the video!
Thank you so much for this
🙏🙏🙏🙏
On average how much is the labor for this alternator replacement
I would say like $200-$300
@@TheOriginalBeeCee
Thanks I think $300 it’s fair coz it’s tight spot and laborious
@@adams6798 i hear ya man! 👍👍
Can you put a 2013 Nissan alternator into a 2019 Nissan?
2019’s are 6th generation Altimas. 2013-2018 are 5th generation. They are different generations, and the alternators are different as well.
How long is the Process
Thats kind of a subjective question and could vary on tools, experience, etc. but i would say probably 1-2 hours.
Hello, I'm Haider from the Arab world. I own a 2018 Nissan Altima, I need a 2018 Altima repair and maintenance manual in order to do some periodic maintenance required for a car, please, not an order. Thank you
It's not 17 on mine
This has to be the most vague comment lol