Awesome! Great to hear! One thing to add that I figured out after doing a few (not shown in video). You can drill a 1/32" hole from the tail side of the mold into the tail to allow for the internal air to escape when u initially start pushing the plastic in. Having that hole will allow the plastic to form a 100% complete tail every time.
Thank you! Once you have figured out the correct way to mold the original in plaster of paris, there is a much harder plaster that does not chip like plaster of paris does. After I make the first couple with the cheap stuff and determine that it looks good and performs, I will make a final cast in the harder stuff for a much more durable mold. Thanks for watching and the comment.
You can use the plaster to mold it, just like I did the one in the video. just make sure that you seal the mold with resin first. Then, make sure to use a non fast-evaporating oil before injecting the plastic. I would use cooking spray to get into that small crevice that the tail will have in the mold from the lure. If you don't, the hardened plastic won't come out and will break off in the crevice.
If you have the $, perfect ur design using plaster/silicone. Once you have exactly what you want, I recommend have someone CAD the design, then have that deisgn 3d printed and cast into an aluminum mold OR, CNC it into an aluminum block. 100% perfect w/no chance of the mold breaking.@bryanwright9221
Thanks for this video, very helpful. If you were trying to copy a lure with side fins and a top fin, would you still cast on its side? Or on its belly?
I'd still cast on it's side. I made several attempts to cast this lure belly down, but the thin tail kept ripping off inside the plaster because the tail was thin. I recommend that any time you're going to cast a lure that has a full body, not just a flat top (like a big hammer or something), that you cast it on it's side so the tail or fins come out of the paster easiest. But, if the fins or tail are thick enough, you could probably get away with it.
Nicely done. I just sent a mold to my 3d printer and trying it for the first time. I still need to get the plastisol and injector. Where did you get yours?
I'm going to try this. When you pull mold apart. Is there a small lip were doll and plastic head is. Doses it need to be removed before pouring the plastic.
Hi Denny. Would you mind clarifying your 3rd sentence? I'm not following you in what you're asking exactly. The "Is there a small lip where the doll..." is not clear to me.
Interesting, was curious about how you made your molds. I've made all kinds of plaster molds and castings over the years. I use marbles to register the mold halves (found that plaster posts and holes to be too fragile) and often reinforce the mold body with burlap (wet the burlap, saturate it with thin plaster before applying).
After you make your initial plaster mold and the lure is exactly how you want it, make a new mold with this plaster. It's way stronger, but more expensive of course. Perfect Cast plaster. Find it on Amazon. Or, make a silicone mold. Any silicone will work with the soft plastic lures, but if you're making lead jigs, you need to get extra high heat silicone that can withstand temps over 700° as lead melts at 642°.
When using plaster, there are enough slight imperfections in the mold to where no intentional vent holes are needed. But, if you decide you need one, I would make a very narrow air escape at the end of the tail. You don't need much. As you force the plastic into the mold, you will see one main/big air bubble come out the top as that is the only spot for the air to escape. Once that air bubble comes out, the plastic backfill that small amount of empty space.
Hi, yes. I didn't add the plastisol, injector, or any other specific idtems in the description as this was just for the plaster mold. You can start here for the plastisol: MF Liquid Plastic (I use Saltwater formula): barlowstackle.com/MF-Liquid-Plastic/?afmc=po (heat this up in a glass cooking cup (like Pyrex, Anchor Kocking, etc) Here is the link for the injector: Liquid Plastic Injector: barlowstackle.com/do-it-plastic-injector-p3694/?afmc=sv Once you decide on plastisol, you can also look at pigment, liquid colors, glitters, and much more!!!
made molds using little otters. first one was a total disaster. made two more and they were pretty good but they both broke after numerous uses. the first one was my fault for using a steel clamp but the second one I'm not sure of. Perhaps not enough plaster? Heat got to it? So I sprayed some heat resistant coating on them to see if that makes a difference. But I am having a great time.
The clamp, being metal, plastic, wood, other shouldn't matter. Most likely cause was the plaster layer wasn't thick enough. With it being super cheap, try using more plaster in your pours to make each side thicker (close to a 1 inch). Make sure your mixture (plaster powder to water) is correct. If you use too much water (trying to conserve plaster), the mold will be too brittle (as the water evaporates, that leaves open pours in the plaster. The more water, the more open pours. Heat resistance coating shouldn't have much of an affect on the plaster durability itself. Great that you're having fun with it. Once you figure it out and start catching fish on your own lures, it makes it all worth it!!!
Cement can have variable meanings depending on the person. I believe you are referring to cement as in a form of concrete. Yes, you can. BUT, once poured and set, there is no trimming it, sanding it, or modifying it. It is permanent. There is liquified concrete hole filler. Not cheap, but not expensive. A lot better to use than standard fast-dry concrete (without pebbles - only sand-based). I have yet to find a molding solution that is as cost-effective (or better) than basic plaster of paris.
This may be a lame question, but considering that I'm a newb at this I'll ask anyway.. is there a reason why you only put one bait in the mold? Seems like there's room for 2..
I only do 1 per mold when filming for "how-to" videos. It's just simpler to focus on 1 instead of multiple for the sake of the video. If I'm going to make them in volume, I'll make with 3 or 4. Doing more per mold does allow for fewer times reheating the plastic when pouring/injecting. So making a mold with more cavities the better 👍
I'm still using it. As long as you're careful and don't bang it around and stuff, it will last. You can use a harder plaster called Perfect Cast that is up to 5x stronger than regular plaster.
Yes, I put a sealer coat on all plaster molds for plastics. I am testing different sealers for any better performance as well. I will update the plaster videos in the comments if I find a better option.
Do you ever have trouble separating the 2 pieces? I used oil and I’ve broke a couple molds trying to break them apart. I’m shocked your did it so easily. Thanks again great videos!
@Duncan MacDonald I have found that if I use a thinner oil, like cooking oil, it soaks into the plaster instead of remaining on the surface. This is why I use a thicker, furniture oil. Even a wax-based oil or polish should work. You just need to have that oil layer stay on the surface so the 2nd plaster pour sits on the oil.
@Duncan MacDonald Oh, and you have no idea how many plaster molds I have broken with trial and error. It looks easy on the videos cuz I don't show the many trial and errors I go through. When it's necessary, like with the lead molds, I do show the errors cuz you could get seriously injured/burnt if done incorrectly. I feel obligated to show those in a controlled environment where I known what's going to happen so you the viewer don't experience it on accident.
I use the MF Saltwater Plastic 7132SW. You can buy in 1 quart or 1 gallon bottles. I get mine from Barlow's Tackle online. You can also purchase directly from MF Manufacturing at pouryourownworkms dot com
Unfortunately, no it will not. I did try, but the plastic is way too hot ND melts the syringe. The aluminum injector is needed as it will hold the heat. I got mine on Amazon for about $50.
Doubt this is read but how does someone that has a plaster homemade mold, pour a paddle tail bait that has one color for tail and one color the body? Anyone know?
If you're really only looking for a different color tail and body, have 2 different colors heated and 2 different injectors. Do tail first, then body as quickly as able (within a minute - or less). This will ensure that the tail portion stays hot/melted and joins the body that is poured subsequently. The other way (what I do) is use a permanent marker to color the tail. I use black marker to color my tails for example. It creates a natural bait fish look that the fish can key in on. Hope this helps!
Where is your air escape hole? That’s why you didn’t get a complete pour you shouldn’t need a injector if you have a cavity fill hole great video though just been to hv a way for air to escape when pouring
The air escape hole was made after this video - after I realized I didn't have it in there for this video. But, it is not mandatory to have. Yes, you do need the injector IF your molds aren't preheated. Applied to any mold type, plaster, aluminum, silicone, whatever. If it isn't preheated, the melted plastic loses its fluidity (cools down too fast) before reaching the farthest end of the mold. The injector gets the plastic all the way even if the molds are cold. Hand-pouring will not work properly on this mold if the plaster is cold/hasn't been preheated. FYI, plaster has a heat tolerance well over 622°, so it can be heated in an oven. Just not too hot it it will bake and crack.
![Make FULL-BODY plastic LURES with DIY PLASTER molds [Full Process]](/img/n.gif)
Homie solved my problem! Thank you I’ve been thinking about how I was going to do this for a solid couple of days and this just helped me out so much
Awesome! Great to hear! One thing to add that I figured out after doing a few (not shown in video). You can drill a 1/32" hole from the tail side of the mold into the tail to allow for the internal air to escape when u initially start pushing the plastic in. Having that hole will allow the plastic to form a 100% complete tail every time.
Very nicely done, Ive been making soft plastics for a few yrs now and have always wanted to make my own mold to try.this looks really amazing
Thank you! Once you have figured out the correct way to mold the original in plaster of paris, there is a much harder plaster that does not chip like plaster of paris does. After I make the first couple with the cheap stuff and determine that it looks good and performs, I will make a final cast in the harder stuff for a much more durable mold. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Thank you for all your hard work.
Good produkt.
Cheers m8.
Brilliant, thanks. Top tip, you can use an oscillating sander or multi tool to vibrate the mold to help release air bubbles.
Good job !! Now show me how to do a mold of the Crush City Mooch Minnow !!
Maybe if you ask, but it's a definite NO demanding it, like I'm your slave or something...
I'm sorry for the way it was worded, I meant nothing bye it😢 !!
You can use the plaster to mold it, just like I did the one in the video. just make sure that you seal the mold with resin first. Then, make sure to use a non fast-evaporating oil before injecting the plastic. I would use cooking spray to get into that small crevice that the tail will have in the mold from the lure. If you don't, the hardened plastic won't come out and will break off in the crevice.
Thank you , I'm not going to copy the mooch minnow going to try and make it a little different, then make me an injection mold !!
If you have the $, perfect ur design using plaster/silicone. Once you have exactly what you want, I recommend have someone CAD the design, then have that deisgn 3d printed and cast into an aluminum mold OR, CNC it into an aluminum block. 100% perfect w/no chance of the mold breaking.@bryanwright9221
Thank you!!!
Absolutely!
Thanks for this video, very helpful. If you were trying to copy a lure with side fins and a top fin, would you still cast on its side? Or on its belly?
I'd still cast on it's side. I made several attempts to cast this lure belly down, but the thin tail kept ripping off inside the plaster because the tail was thin. I recommend that any time you're going to cast a lure that has a full body, not just a flat top (like a big hammer or something), that you cast it on it's side so the tail or fins come out of the paster easiest. But, if the fins or tail are thick enough, you could probably get away with it.
Nicely done. I just sent a mold to my 3d printer and trying it for the first time. I still need to get the plastisol and injector. Where did you get yours?
I get the MF Saltwater formula from Barlows Tackle (online). I got the injector on amazon for about $45.
Hello, what kind of plaster do you use, thank you
Please see the description as both kids I use are noted with the links to get from Amazon.
Could you do a video on how to mold hollow body swimbaits?
I can look into it. Thanks!
I'm going to try this. When you pull mold apart. Is there a small lip were doll and plastic head is. Doses it need to be removed before pouring the plastic.
Hi Denny. Would you mind clarifying your 3rd sentence? I'm not following you in what you're asking exactly. The "Is there a small lip where the doll..." is not clear to me.
Interesting, was curious about how you made your molds. I've made all kinds of plaster molds and castings over the years. I use marbles to register the mold halves (found that plaster posts and holes to be too fragile) and often reinforce the mold body with burlap (wet the burlap, saturate it with thin plaster before applying).
After you make your initial plaster mold and the lure is exactly how you want it, make a new mold with this plaster. It's way stronger, but more expensive of course.
Perfect Cast plaster. Find it on Amazon. Or, make a silicone mold. Any silicone will work with the soft plastic lures, but if you're making lead jigs, you need to get extra high heat silicone that can withstand temps over 700° as lead melts at 642°.
Where did you drill the vent hole?
When using plaster, there are enough slight imperfections in the mold to where no intentional vent holes are needed. But, if you decide you need one, I would make a very narrow air escape at the end of the tail. You don't need much. As you force the plastic into the mold, you will see one main/big air bubble come out the top as that is the only spot for the air to escape. Once that air bubble comes out, the plastic backfill that small amount of empty space.
@@StartFishingToday thanks for the response
What can i use to actually pour in the mold for the actual done lure though i cant find anythingabout that. Just the molds.
Hi, yes. I didn't add the plastisol, injector, or any other specific idtems in the description as this was just for the plaster mold. You can start here for the plastisol:
MF Liquid Plastic (I use Saltwater formula):
barlowstackle.com/MF-Liquid-Plastic/?afmc=po
(heat this up in a glass cooking cup (like Pyrex, Anchor Kocking, etc)
Here is the link for the injector:
Liquid Plastic Injector:
barlowstackle.com/do-it-plastic-injector-p3694/?afmc=sv
Once you decide on plastisol, you can also look at pigment, liquid colors, glitters, and much more!!!
How much of a box of plaster of paris would you need to make both parts?
I think about 2 cups. Tbh, I've been using it so much that I don't really measure or remember exactly. In other words, not much at all.
made molds using little otters. first one was a total disaster. made two more and they were pretty good but they both broke after numerous uses. the first one was my fault for using a steel clamp but the second one I'm not sure of. Perhaps not enough plaster? Heat got to it? So I sprayed some heat resistant coating on them to see if that makes a difference. But I am having a great time.
The clamp, being metal, plastic, wood, other shouldn't matter. Most likely cause was the plaster layer wasn't thick enough. With it being super cheap, try using more plaster in your pours to make each side thicker (close to a 1 inch). Make sure your mixture (plaster powder to water) is correct. If you use too much water (trying to conserve plaster), the mold will be too brittle (as the water evaporates, that leaves open pours in the plaster. The more water, the more open pours. Heat resistance coating shouldn't have much of an affect on the plaster durability itself. Great that you're having fun with it. Once you figure it out and start catching fish on your own lures, it makes it all worth it!!!
@@StartFishingToday I'm learning!!
@@StartFishingToday one other question. Can you make molds using cement instead?
Cement can have variable meanings depending on the person. I believe you are referring to cement as in a form of concrete. Yes, you can. BUT, once poured and set, there is no trimming it, sanding it, or modifying it. It is permanent. There is liquified concrete hole filler. Not cheap, but not expensive. A lot better to use than standard fast-dry concrete (without pebbles - only sand-based). I have yet to find a molding solution that is as cost-effective (or better) than basic plaster of paris.
@@StartFishingToday thanks for the advice. MIGHT try it but going to have to think long and hard. LOL
This may be a lame question, but considering that I'm a newb at this I'll ask anyway.. is there a reason why you only put one bait in the mold? Seems like there's room for 2..
I only do 1 per mold when filming for "how-to" videos. It's just simpler to focus on 1 instead of multiple for the sake of the video. If I'm going to make them in volume, I'll make with 3 or 4. Doing more per mold does allow for fewer times reheating the plastic when pouring/injecting. So making a mold with more cavities the better 👍
@@StartFishingToday 👌
What oz is your injector?
4 and 6 oz.
How many pours did you get out of it before it broke down?
I'm still using it. As long as you're careful and don't bang it around and stuff, it will last. You can use a harder plaster called Perfect Cast that is up to 5x stronger than regular plaster.
@@StartFishingToday Thank you for the quick response.
@@JustinTyme1966 Sure thing!
But how did you seal the mold? From plastisol form sticking after shooting
Do you use a clear coat polish on this type of mold too or does it ruin how the two pieces seal together?
Yes, I put a sealer coat on all plaster molds for plastics. I am testing different sealers for any better performance as well. I will update the plaster videos in the comments if I find a better option.
Do you ever have trouble separating the 2 pieces? I used oil and I’ve broke a couple molds trying to break them apart. I’m shocked your did it so easily. Thanks again great videos!
@Duncan MacDonald I have found that if I use a thinner oil, like cooking oil, it soaks into the plaster instead of remaining on the surface. This is why I use a thicker, furniture oil. Even a wax-based oil or polish should work. You just need to have that oil layer stay on the surface so the 2nd plaster pour sits on the oil.
@Duncan MacDonald Oh, and you have no idea how many plaster molds I have broken with trial and error. It looks easy on the videos cuz I don't show the many trial and errors I go through. When it's necessary, like with the lead molds, I do show the errors cuz you could get seriously injured/burnt if done incorrectly. I feel obligated to show those in a controlled environment where I known what's going to happen so you the viewer don't experience it on accident.
@@StartFishingToday yes the oil I was using did seem to seep into the plaster, I’ll get a wax and try that, thanks!
what name liquid for injektion
I use the MF Saltwater Plastic 7132SW. You can buy in 1 quart or 1 gallon bottles. I get mine from Barlow's Tackle online. You can also purchase directly from MF Manufacturing at pouryourownworkms dot com
1 Lure price
No gum next time! Good video.
It adds flavor...
@@StartFishingToday Lol! How do your molds hold up after many pours?
As long as you don't throw it around and are careful with it, forever. I still use some of the molds my dad made 30+ years ago. @@--dh--
Great Video.👍🏼 (it’s LEGO, never LEGOS. The singular and plural is LEGO…😊)
Why are you and others caring so much about the LEGO's pronunciation?
Will a medicine syringe work instead of an injector
Unfortunately, no it will not. I did try, but the plastic is way too hot ND melts the syringe. The aluminum injector is needed as it will hold the heat. I got mine on Amazon for about $50.
Bro.. ditch the chewing gum 😅
That was painful..
Molds look good👍
Thanks for watching. The extra unnecessary sounds add character to the video. No?
@@StartFishingToday lol, sure 🤙
Doubt this is read but how does someone that has a plaster homemade mold, pour a paddle tail bait that has one color for tail and one color the body? Anyone know?
If you're really only looking for a different color tail and body, have 2 different colors heated and 2 different injectors. Do tail first, then body as quickly as able (within a minute - or less). This will ensure that the tail portion stays hot/melted and joins the body that is poured subsequently. The other way (what I do) is use a permanent marker to color the tail. I use black marker to color my tails for example. It creates a natural bait fish look that the fish can key in on. Hope this helps!
Where is your air escape hole? That’s why you didn’t get a complete pour you shouldn’t need a injector if you have a cavity fill hole great video though just been to hv a way for air to escape when pouring
The air escape hole was made after this video - after I realized I didn't have it in there for this video. But, it is not mandatory to have. Yes, you do need the injector IF your molds aren't preheated. Applied to any mold type, plaster, aluminum, silicone, whatever. If it isn't preheated, the melted plastic loses its fluidity (cools down too fast) before reaching the farthest end of the mold. The injector gets the plastic all the way even if the molds are cold. Hand-pouring will not work properly on this mold if the plaster is cold/hasn't been preheated. FYI, plaster has a heat tolerance well over 622°, so it can be heated in an oven. Just not too hot it it will bake and crack.