I did a valve grind (hand lapped) on a 57 Morris 1000 when I was 16. That bought the compression up and it then smoked a bit and I went to a little heavier oil.Used the car for about a year then sold it.This in 1968.
When I started working as a mechanic you could still buy a new Morris Minor, and I've worked on literally hundreds of them. That joint between the manifold and the exhaust front pipe was always a pain, but relatively easy on the Minor and similar Austins (A30/35/40 etc). The ones which were really a pain were the transverse ones, Mini, Austin/Morris 1100/1300 etc. The joint was right at the back of the engine between the engine and the bulkhead and was a sod to get at. We used to fill the grooves in the clamp with Gun Gum exhaust sealant before fitting them so that it oozed out as you tightened the bolts, which usually sealed them. The clamp halves were mostly pressed steel with brass nuts, rather than cast iron as on Fords of the day, one of the few things better on Fords than BMC cars in those days! Thanks for bringing back some memories of my youth!
There was a bell housing bolt on top passenger side (right side in Canada) on A40 A50- A55 A60 that was often left out.Great little cars for a kid with not a lot of money.
I always use a piece of pipe pushed into the manifold a little and push the exhaust on over that, keeps it straight and usually guarantees a leak free joint, Ive owned Landcrabs for many years and a 948 Minor at the moment, I found it the best way to stop em leaking. 👌👍
Nice work on the head gasket. I've just bought a Morris Minor project (needs a lot of work) but hope to get it all sorted. A series engines are a joy to work on! :)
Nice instructions! If I was doing the job I'd also check both the cylinder head and block for flatness: an irregularity here may cause the replacement gasket to fail. Also I would check the valve stem seals for signs of deterioration whilst the rocker assembly is off: a perished seal increases oil consumption.
It really is easy to get the head leveled by a machine shop . My father's 950 blew between 3 and 4 . He used to change the gasket in a weekend . Petrol quality wasn't particularly good in the sixties .
COULDNT GET ON WITH METRIC WRENCH SO SEARCHED ON LINE FOUND GOOD OLD NON METRIC WITH FOOT POUNDS MUCH EASIER CLICK YES THAT SMALL HOSE WHAT A LITTLE SOD TO PUT ON HAPPY MOTORING
Thank you for these informative videos. My Morris minor Traveller also has a defective head gasket between the 1st and 2nd cylinder. When the spare parts from ESM arrive I will replace the head gasket. Question: After the first warm-up and after 400km the cylinder head should be tightened again ? Greetings from Germany Peter
Glad it helped. Yes, after the first warm up and after the first 400km / 500 miles you should retighten the head and reset the valve clearances. Please note, I'm not a mechanic, just an enthusiast and long term owner!
Thank you, glad it's of help. No need for sealant, the head and block need to be clean and flat. If you are unsure, get the head checked and skimmed if needed. Good luck 👍
@@workinprogress1098 okay, brilliant! Nervous about replacing the rockers also, I’m sure getting them out is easy but hesitant on the procedure for getting them back in!
question? your additional brake fluid reservoir. I have one the same but i had it sited on the bulkhead where it was at an angle and leaked. where about is yours attached to on the side there?
I did a valve grind (hand lapped) on a 57 Morris 1000 when I was 16. That bought the compression up and it then smoked a bit and I went to a little heavier oil.Used the car for about a year then sold it.This in 1968.
When I started working as a mechanic you could still buy a new Morris Minor, and I've worked on literally hundreds of them. That joint between the manifold and the exhaust front pipe was always a pain, but relatively easy on the Minor and similar Austins (A30/35/40 etc). The ones which were really a pain were the transverse ones, Mini, Austin/Morris 1100/1300 etc. The joint was right at the back of the engine between the engine and the bulkhead and was a sod to get at. We used to fill the grooves in the clamp with Gun Gum exhaust sealant before fitting them so that it oozed out as you tightened the bolts, which usually sealed them. The clamp halves were mostly pressed steel with brass nuts, rather than cast iron as on Fords of the day, one of the few things better on Fords than BMC cars in those days! Thanks for bringing back some memories of my youth!
I'd forgotten about the Mini ones. Did a few of those in my early driving days.
There was a bell housing bolt on top passenger side (right side in Canada) on A40 A50- A55 A60 that was often left out.Great little cars for a kid with not a lot of money.
I always use a piece of pipe pushed into the manifold a little and push the exhaust on over that, keeps it straight and usually guarantees a leak free joint, Ive owned Landcrabs for many years and a 948 Minor at the moment, I found it the best way to stop em leaking. 👌👍
Good tip 👍🏻
Nice work on the head gasket. I've just bought a Morris Minor project (needs a lot of work) but hope to get it all sorted. A series engines are a joy to work on! :)
Congrats on your purchase. Keep me posted on your progress 👍🏻
Great video well explained a lot you there but she’s all up and running again great work 👍
Thank you. I'm not mechanicly trained, but thought it might help those who have never done it before.
Nice instructions! If I was doing the job I'd also check both the cylinder head and block for flatness: an irregularity here may cause the replacement gasket to fail. Also I would check the valve stem seals for signs of deterioration whilst the rocker assembly is off: a perished seal increases oil consumption.
Thanks. I did check the seals and all were good, but as you say was probably worth adding to the video.
Great video!
Thank you
Awesome video, just found this channel and am looking forward to morris minor videos to come
Glad you like them!
COUPLE OF DAYS BACK MY PULL START CABLE PULLED OUT MOST PROB ORIGINAL FROM 1960 BOUGHT NEW CABLE OK NOW BEST TO CHECK HAPPY MOTORING
Mine had been removed and the ignition switch changed. I installed the pull start system again in the early '90's, so relatively new. 😆
@@workinprogress1098 t y for reply
Have you thought of using a diamond stone for cleaning and flattening the head and block surfaces?
No, not heard of that, will take a look. Its been a long time since I've done a head gasket, but enjoying getting my hands dirty again!
It really is easy to get the head leveled by a machine shop . My father's 950 blew between 3 and 4 . He used to change the gasket in a weekend . Petrol quality wasn't particularly good in the sixties .
The exhaust valves were toast using cheap petrol back then and needed decarbonisation after a year
The exhausts can be a pain to seal. I usually place a Jack under the pipe
I do the same. Still can't get it right. 🤣
COULDNT GET ON WITH METRIC WRENCH SO SEARCHED ON LINE FOUND GOOD OLD NON METRIC WITH FOOT POUNDS MUCH EASIER CLICK YES THAT SMALL HOSE WHAT A LITTLE SOD TO PUT ON HAPPY MOTORING
As Roy would call it woody
Thank you for these informative videos. My Morris minor Traveller also has a defective head gasket between the 1st and 2nd cylinder. When the spare parts from ESM arrive I will replace the head gasket. Question: After the first warm-up and after 400km the cylinder head should be tightened again ?
Greetings from Germany Peter
Glad it helped. Yes, after the first warm up and after the first 400km / 500 miles you should retighten the head and reset the valve clearances. Please note, I'm not a mechanic, just an enthusiast and long term owner!
Excellent videos, especially for someone who is nervous of the job! Do you need gasket sealant for the head? My 1957 moggy has blown her head gasket!
Thank you, glad it's of help. No need for sealant, the head and block need to be clean and flat. If you are unsure, get the head checked and skimmed if needed. Good luck 👍
@@workinprogress1098 okay, brilliant! Nervous about replacing the rockers also, I’m sure getting them out is easy but hesitant on the procedure for getting them back in!
@@lazygamingunited548 you can't go far wrong with a Haynes manual by your side. I've had mine for years and swear by it.
Muito bom trabalho
Thank you
question? your additional brake fluid reservoir. I have one the same but i had it sited on the bulkhead where it was at an angle and leaked. where about is yours attached to on the side there?
Hi there. My reservoir is attached to the web between the inner arch and the bonnet gutter if that makes sense?
@@workinprogress1098 yes it does thank you