If you've enjoyed this video please like, comment & share 🙂 It really helps! 🙋♀️COMPLETE DOG TRAINING SOLUTIONS: •❓🤨 STRUGGLING WITH LEASH TRAINING? 👇 ✅ 6 Weeks to Dream Walks: Step-By-Step Leash Training Program: e37240-61.myshopify.com/products/6-weeks-to-dream-walks-step-by-step-leash-training-program •❓🐿️ STRUGGLING WITH YOUR DOG CHASING ANIMALS (indoors or outdoors)?👇 ✅ Dog Prey Drive: How to STOP Animal Chasing: e37240-61.myshopify.com/products/dog-prey-drive-how-to-stop-animal-chasing-with-force-free-methods ►👀 WATCH NEXT: ✔️ Full puppy training playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLiUh57UCWpFE-vv8Kew2yHDto0m938Be4.html ► 🗣️ STAY CONNECTED: • Instagram (my most active platform): instagram.com/happyhounds_dogtraining/ • Facebook: facebook.com/HappyHoundsDogTraining.ca • Blog: happyhoundsdogtraining.ca/blog/ • Email list: view.flodesk.com/pages/61898eeb3a0e5bcf6f5411ec ►❤️ FAVOURITE DOG GEAR: ➡️ *ALL* my favourite dog items & discount codes: happyhoundsdogtraining.ca/shop 🧸 Amazing faux & real fur toys: www.tug-e-nuff.co.uk/?ref=happyhoundsdogtraining 🐕🦺 My favourite harness & dog gear: rockymountaindog.ca/?ref=ka8S8Xue 🦴 My favourite treat bag: amzn.to/3UUGF60 🦮 Beautiful custom biothane leashes (I use the hands-free version): www.hightailhikes.com?aff=212 Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my channel so I can continue to provide you with free content.
I have been using a variation on lure that often leads to a down, but also gives me a bunch of other good info. With a dog who has learned Sit, I do a couple of reps of Sit, then I put my fist fingers down in front of them with a treat in my palm. About 50% of the time the dogs will go through a very similar thought process. Almost always they start by pawing my hand, when that doesn't "work" they offer a Sit as that's the last thing they did that "worked", then they pause and think, and then they do a down and I turn my hand over and let them have the treat. I think my fist on the ground combined with the previous sit gives them a bit of information to work with as they "solve" the problem. On the occasions where this works I then begin to move my hand up, until I am just putting my fist in front of me, and I can then drop the treat between the dogs paws while they are down. Now I have a hand gesture cue that I can use at distance, and I start adding my verbal cue as well, along with phasing out the treats. But I also have taught the dog that thinking about the "problem" and deciding for themselves what to try is rewarding. And I have some insight into their response to frustration. And even when this "fails", that insight into frustration is still there. A "failure" being a dog who just paws at my hand and doesn't try anything else. In that case I remove my hand, pause for a moment then ask for a sit and reward. But now I know a bit about the dog's thought process and I can adjust my training. So, 100% of the time I learn a lot about the dog, and for the dogs that are more "creative" we establish that thinking for yourself is good, and I can make sure to work with that and make that a really positive experience for them, while for dogs who don't think that way I can adjust and make sure training is positive for them too.
It almost sounds like a hybrid between luring & shaping! & I agree about feedback. You can learn a lot about a dog (and often about whether their history of training was positive) by watching how much they LIKE puzzle solving & trying new things 🙂
@@happyhoundsdogtraining I am wondering how much I can affect that over time. If a dog doesn't try a down, or anything, and just paws at me in frustration, I don't call it a failure. But I am trying to figure out how to then work with that dog to help them discover their curiosity and creativity. Key being finding ways to stay below the frustration level, while making it obvious that there is something to be gained by trying. It's a fine balance between not enough motivation and too much frustration.
I'm glad it helped! 🙂 Can I ask what breed your dog is? I find it's more common for small breeds to need the tunnel method, so just curious what kind of dog you have!
Cant wait to try this tonight with my Corgi's. I wasn't using a lure I was trying to command and help them get into position but pushing them into a downed position.
@Happy Hounds Dog Training our male who is about a year and a half understands the down command or at least he is getting it. Our female seems confused. She is 2 years old and she sits right in front of me. When I put the lure to her nose she follows it down but theb looks up at me confused why she can't have it. When I put it to her nose again to guide her into position she turns away from it. I sat the lure down and would help her get into the down position. Am I doing something wrong will I need a better lure?
@@rottenreason35 Hi! Question & few suggestions :) When you say she follows the treat down, is just her head moving but she's not actually lying down? If so: 1) Definitely could be that the treat isn't high value enough! This video will walk you through a three treat test to help you determine her favourite: ua-cam.com/video/yC_7KmG_4dk/v-deo.html 2) You can also trying amping her up a bit by REALLY making the treat exciting. Watch minute 2:24 of this one to see what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/OtdXdjdKWx8/v-deo.html 3) and then lastly, distance from her nose and speed matter a lot. Try to keep it quite close to her nose as you slowly but continuously move it in that "L" shaped lure!
Hello! Thank you for your content! Question…this is working for me pretty well but what do you recommend when the dog knows you have treats and is so focused on the treats and trying to get to them?
Haha too food motivated is a pretty good problem to have ♥ If they have a hard time focusing when there's treats present I'd suggest two things: 1) Possibly consider a lower value treat if the item itself is too exciting. For example, if I'm working on an easier skill with my dog I can't use beef because she likes it so much she can't focus. I save that reward for harder skills. 2) I'd suggest wearing your treat pouch during some non-training times so that your dog doesn't automatically associate the presence of treats= I'm about to get one. Wearing the treat pouch and just carrying on with your normal day can help them to be less fixated on the food. Just make sure you don't reward any begging or attempts to possibly grab the treats!
Once you've phased out the treat lure and your dog can lay down when you give the verbal cue/hand signal (when you're kneeling as practiced), just stand up and give the cues! You may need to lure/guide them once or twice if they seem confused by your position change, but most dogs won't need that 🙂
Are you doing the lure version, or the capturing? With lure I'd try to say down JUST as you start moving that lure, whereas with capturing you'd want to add it when your dog is already mid-motion :)
Okay, I’m starting to feel you’re a mind reader. Whenever I watch one of your videos this happens: Me: Hmmmm, _____ is great, but sometimes it fails. _____ would have been great to add. Happy Hounds: BTW, if that doesn’t work, consider….”. Me: 🤯
If you've enjoyed this video please like, comment & share 🙂 It really helps!
🙋♀️COMPLETE DOG TRAINING SOLUTIONS:
•❓🤨 STRUGGLING WITH LEASH TRAINING? 👇
✅ 6 Weeks to Dream Walks: Step-By-Step Leash Training Program: e37240-61.myshopify.com/products/6-weeks-to-dream-walks-step-by-step-leash-training-program
•❓🐿️ STRUGGLING WITH YOUR DOG CHASING ANIMALS (indoors or outdoors)?👇
✅ Dog Prey Drive: How to STOP Animal Chasing: e37240-61.myshopify.com/products/dog-prey-drive-how-to-stop-animal-chasing-with-force-free-methods
►👀 WATCH NEXT:
✔️ Full puppy training playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLiUh57UCWpFE-vv8Kew2yHDto0m938Be4.html
► 🗣️ STAY CONNECTED:
• Instagram (my most active platform): instagram.com/happyhounds_dogtraining/
• Facebook: facebook.com/HappyHoundsDogTraining.ca
• Blog: happyhoundsdogtraining.ca/blog/
• Email list: view.flodesk.com/pages/61898eeb3a0e5bcf6f5411ec
►❤️ FAVOURITE DOG GEAR:
➡️ *ALL* my favourite dog items & discount codes: happyhoundsdogtraining.ca/shop
🧸 Amazing faux & real fur toys: www.tug-e-nuff.co.uk/?ref=happyhoundsdogtraining
🐕🦺 My favourite harness & dog gear: rockymountaindog.ca/?ref=ka8S8Xue
🦴 My favourite treat bag: amzn.to/3UUGF60
🦮 Beautiful custom biothane leashes (I use the hands-free version): www.hightailhikes.com?aff=212
Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my channel so I can continue to provide you with free content.
I have been using a variation on lure that often leads to a down, but also gives me a bunch of other good info. With a dog who has learned Sit, I do a couple of reps of Sit, then I put my fist fingers down in front of them with a treat in my palm. About 50% of the time the dogs will go through a very similar thought process. Almost always they start by pawing my hand, when that doesn't "work" they offer a Sit as that's the last thing they did that "worked", then they pause and think, and then they do a down and I turn my hand over and let them have the treat. I think my fist on the ground combined with the previous sit gives them a bit of information to work with as they "solve" the problem. On the occasions where this works I then begin to move my hand up, until I am just putting my fist in front of me, and I can then drop the treat between the dogs paws while they are down. Now I have a hand gesture cue that I can use at distance, and I start adding my verbal cue as well, along with phasing out the treats. But I also have taught the dog that thinking about the "problem" and deciding for themselves what to try is rewarding. And I have some insight into their response to frustration. And even when this "fails", that insight into frustration is still there. A "failure" being a dog who just paws at my hand and doesn't try anything else. In that case I remove my hand, pause for a moment then ask for a sit and reward. But now I know a bit about the dog's thought process and I can adjust my training. So, 100% of the time I learn a lot about the dog, and for the dogs that are more "creative" we establish that thinking for yourself is good, and I can make sure to work with that and make that a really positive experience for them, while for dogs who don't think that way I can adjust and make sure training is positive for them too.
It almost sounds like a hybrid between luring & shaping! & I agree about feedback. You can learn a lot about a dog (and often about whether their history of training was positive) by watching how much they LIKE puzzle solving & trying new things 🙂
@@happyhoundsdogtraining I am wondering how much I can affect that over time. If a dog doesn't try a down, or anything, and just paws at me in frustration, I don't call it a failure. But I am trying to figure out how to then work with that dog to help them discover their curiosity and creativity. Key being finding ways to stay below the frustration level, while making it obvious that there is something to be gained by trying. It's a fine balance between not enough motivation and too much frustration.
I really like how you frame with “troubleshooting”
Thank you so much!!
Very clear n concise instructions. I needed the tunnel method
I'm glad it helped! 🙂 Can I ask what breed your dog is? I find it's more common for small breeds to need the tunnel method, so just curious what kind of dog you have!
Ahsoka is so cute. And great content! Thanks Steph.
Thank you SO much for the kind words 🙂and yes, she's the cutest!
The knee bridge was a great idea, thanks
You're welcome! 😊
💯 best video out
I wish you could train my pup,
U wouldn't happen to live in Toronto area
Unfortunately I'm in Edmonton! But I'm so glad you enjoyed the video 😊
I tried this on my 3 month old - worked great. Thanks
Amazing! So glad it helped 😊
Cant wait to try this tonight with my Corgi's. I wasn't using a lure I was trying to command and help them get into position but pushing them into a downed position.
I'm so glad you liked it, and YAY, corgis! My dog is half corgi/half heeler. I LOVE corgis. Happy training!
@Happy Hounds Dog Training our male who is about a year and a half understands the down command or at least he is getting it. Our female seems confused. She is 2 years old and she sits right in front of me. When I put the lure to her nose she follows it down but theb looks up at me confused why she can't have it. When I put it to her nose again to guide her into position she turns away from it. I sat the lure down and would help her get into the down position. Am I doing something wrong will I need a better lure?
@@rottenreason35 Hi! Question & few suggestions :) When you say she follows the treat down, is just her head moving but she's not actually lying down? If so:
1) Definitely could be that the treat isn't high value enough! This video will walk you through a three treat test to help you determine her favourite: ua-cam.com/video/yC_7KmG_4dk/v-deo.html
2) You can also trying amping her up a bit by REALLY making the treat exciting. Watch minute 2:24 of this one to see what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/OtdXdjdKWx8/v-deo.html
3) and then lastly, distance from her nose and speed matter a lot. Try to keep it quite close to her nose as you slowly but continuously move it in that "L" shaped lure!
Hello! Thank you for your content! Question…this is working for me pretty well but what do you recommend when the dog knows you have treats and is so focused on the treats and trying to get to them?
Haha too food motivated is a pretty good problem to have ♥ If they have a hard time focusing when there's treats present I'd suggest two things:
1) Possibly consider a lower value treat if the item itself is too exciting. For example, if I'm working on an easier skill with my dog I can't use beef because she likes it so much she can't focus. I save that reward for harder skills.
2) I'd suggest wearing your treat pouch during some non-training times so that your dog doesn't automatically associate the presence of treats= I'm about to get one. Wearing the treat pouch and just carrying on with your normal day can help them to be less fixated on the food. Just make sure you don't reward any begging or attempts to possibly grab the treats!
How do you get your puppy in a down when standing up ? Not kneeling down yourself
Once you've phased out the treat lure and your dog can lay down when you give the verbal cue/hand signal (when you're kneeling as practiced), just stand up and give the cues! You may need to lure/guide them once or twice if they seem confused by your position change, but most dogs won't need that 🙂
So in terms of timing the rule is to CUE (down) DURING and MARK (yes)AFTER
Are you doing the lure version, or the capturing? With lure I'd try to say down JUST as you start moving that lure, whereas with capturing you'd want to add it when your dog is already mid-motion :)
Okay, I’m starting to feel you’re a mind reader. Whenever I watch one of your videos this happens: Me: Hmmmm, _____ is great, but sometimes it fails. _____ would have been great to add. Happy Hounds: BTW, if that doesn’t work, consider….”. Me: 🤯
Ooooh I love this ☺🙌 Thank you!! I try my best to think of the potential struggles & solutions!