Awesome video. I see why it is still on UA-cam after 10 Years. I was looking at that scope but was afraid I would not be able to figure out how to use the combination of measurements. I think I will get one now. Thanks.
*Hahaha, just keep watching till it sinks in, for me, this was the simplest explanation I've heard and now have confidence in getting a Leupold scope, but the 25 magnification is a bit too much for Colorado. You're lucky to see anything further than 100 yrds, as the forest is very thick.* *Too bad Leupold doesn't make a scope that's 4-18x50 in a Front Focal Plane, which is by far better than a rear focal plane and for a few reasons!*
Please make more instructional videos! I got a Vortex Viper with a Mil/MOA setup and this video made everything clear as day! Mil/Mil would be so much easier, but I'm a nerd and like the math. Dump your knowledge!
I've done a couple on sight adjustments and one on the mildot master. There are plenty of good instructional videos out there. But thank you. I add videos on things I find interesting or different or are simple things that help out guys. I may do a video on tricks you can do with scopes to gain holds or elevation travel or mapping out reticles.
Great job in explaining that. A lot of people don't know the finer points and it can cost you a huge bull elk at 500 yards. The range card is something I make for each type ammo I am thinking about using. Good video!
You have my exact scope and this is the first mildot I've owned this was very informative I have it mounted to a barrett m99 so it's not cheap to practice thank you sir
thanks for your video with this video i made some easy calculations for guys who use metric 1 MOA equals 2.908882 cm at 100m ( it is the sinus of 1/60 degree) approx 2.91cm 1 mildot is 3.437746 MOA means : 2.90882cm x3.437736 = 10cm so 1 mildot equals 10cm at 100m for who uses 1/8 MOA turrets every click equals 0.363 cm = approx 1/3 cm for who uses 1/4 MOA turrets every click equals 0.727cm = approx 2/3 cm
Samuel Heraoui im not busting your balls but i was Wrighting this down and idk if you didnt catch it but your missing and 8 should be 2.908882 on tbe second one and the 3.437746 you put 37736 =10cm so im confused a little
Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Although the video confused me at first after a few more views it made sense. When you were talking about your bullet dropping 2ft with no reticle you initially lost me at that part. You were skipping around some and so the 1,000 yard distance wasn't clear. Here is my .02$. Starting with a 100yd zero on the scope, lets figure for a target @ 400 yds. Instead of thinking of a bullet falling short of the target, lets think of bullet ballistics. Again starting with a 100yd Zero, my ballistic data tells me my .308 bullet will drop 31.30 inches @ 400yds. 31.30 inches is the amount my scope needs to be dialed up to. So @ 400yds, 1 MOA = 4". (according the information provided) We also know the turret has 4 clicks for 1 full MOA. Every 1/4 MOA click @ 400yds now represents 1" of adjustment. Since I need 31" of adjustment, that will also be 31 clicks. 31 clicks will dial you up to 7.75 MOA or 7 MOA + 3 more clicks. Also since you are working with 1/4 increments dividing 31 by 4 will quickly give you 7.75. To take it even further to try for more accuracy lets recalculate using the exact number provided for MOA which is 1.047. So @ 400yds 1 MOA = 4.188 inches. The rest is simple using the same ballistic info for the .308 @ 400yds. The bullet will drop 31.30 inches. So, 31.3 (divided by) 4.188 = 7.474 which is close to 7.5 MOA. This new number should put me 1" closer to my point of aim as compared to 7.75 since every 1/4 click is roughly 1". If this is wrong please feel free to edit/correct.
You got it. But the one thing I would do....is have the ballistic calculator give you the initial dope in MOA instead of inches. The calculator is doing the heavy lifting....no sense in getting answers in inches and then you yourself doing the conversion.
DFOOSKING the main objective is for the beginner to learn to use the reticle as well since its a valuable tool help supply you will corrections. Since you know understand inches to MOA....next is converting MOA based dope to Mil based dope to do holds onto the reticle. So if have 12 MOA for a given distance....divide that by 3.438 and you'll have the actual drop in mils.
I said it doesn't matter if it's two feet or ten miles when using the reticle. When the reticle is set at the mil setting your adjustments needed for corrections are easily determined by using no math whatsoever because the reticle supplies the correction. I then say IF YOU HAVE NO RETICLE WITH SUBTENTIONS (fine crosshair) you must go back to using the inches per hundred yards rule. There is also mapping out duplex reticles to make them a poor man's version of a hold over reticle....But that is beyond the scope of this video.
To turn a mil reading into moa divide the mil reading by 3. e.g. 1.5mil/3 = 5 MOA because every 1/10th mil = 1/3rd MOA (roughly: .034 vs .033). Another example: 3.43moa per mil/10=0.0343.
Hi ... could you go over a part of this flick at 4:53, where you say it don't matter how far away you are just so long as you have the reticle set at the mill setting. Please clear that part up for me. Is this where a rear focal scope has to be on about 10X for moa's to be correct. This moa explanation is the best yet, Thanks.
Awesome video, you appear to be highly qualified/credentialed. However, a range card would preclude having to convert mils to MOA or MOA to mils; thus, shooter can benefit from mil reticles superior ranging function and benefit from MOA superior elevation and windage adjustment when time is not an issue.
Most are not going to waste the time to draw up a range card/sector sketch. Either due to time or lack of experience. The whole point of the video is to teach you how to use the "mixed" system. If I wanted to show immediate efficiencies....the video would be 10 seconds long and the screen would read "Buy turrets that match the reticle." Another efficiency would be dial back the magnification so a mil measures 4 moa instead of 3.438 moa and have a true moa/moa setup. But that would not work in all optics (fixed power) and shooting scenarios (heavy mirage). And most are not willing to remember one mil relation formula so asking them to learn another (for a MOA/MOA setup) is usually asking alot of a beginner. Granted, an individual carrying a MDM or just a ballistic app no doubt will be able to bypass that little issue. (Not something even covered here and for a reason). Shooters are gonna gain value in this for the sole reason that they for whatever reason now have a mixed optic and at some point they will have to dial on top of holds to where the reticle is critically important. Or far more common....they miss a target (either by alot or by a little) and they will need/want to measure their miss and have a solution that directly correlates to their dials. What baffles my mind is why my mixed optic video gets 2 to 3 times the traffic. And my mil/mil video has far less. Yes, there are other mil/mil videos and they have better quality videography but the info presented in both is adequate. It tells me there are plenty of people still buying and running mixed setups and few can actually teach the old system in a manner that is absorbable.
I also have a Leupold Mark 4 but the 6.5-20x50mm, I can not seem to find what magnification it has to be on for the mil reticle to be accurate? Do you happen to know? Thanks!
I have the same scope. Use 20x for all range finding work with this scope. Max magnification. I heard people say you can reduce to half the power, from 20 to 10. Then double the height of the target and double the Mils to target. For a six foot target you have two yards. You also see four Mil-dots on the target. Instead of calculating at 20x for (2x1000)/4=500 yards. At half magnification, 10x, you have (4x1000)/8=500 yards. I tried the 6.5 power to get about ⅓ of the max power. So I tripled the height of target and Mils on target. So, (6x1000)/12=500. So it is possible to get three places you can calculate on a 2nd focal plane scope. This is only to determine the distance to target. I don't know if you can do this for using the reticle to shoot from. Say if you need 2 mils to get on target. Setting on 20x would be the correct mils needed. If your on 10x power, I don't know if you would hold over 4 mils to get on target. I wouldn't bet on it.
just depends on where the scope maker put it. Usually it's max power.....but not always. Just make a target paper with a marks every 3.6" and place the target at exactly 100yds. Then change your magnification till the mils line up with the marks on the target.
I forgot most of that crap at school with whole pie being 3.14 and the whole using the "sin" on the calculator and the while "ASS or angle side side" crap but this i wish they would teach. You do a good job but i wish i had someone i could try this out on paper and have them say good job thats right or nope you would have missed and explain it to me. Today all "pie" means to me is the stuff you eat..."sin" is why you need Jesus....and "ASS" is well you know. Thank you for the video
Why in your lecture of MIL/MIL scope is a MIL = 3.6" then for a MIL/MOA scope a MIL is 3.43".... ARE THE MILS DIFFERENT on the TWO different types of scopes?
A mil is 3.43 MOA at ANY RANGE. At 100yds....3.43 MOA equals 3.6". It's the same thing in regards to that distance. The main thing is to understand the 3.43 MOA at ANY RANGE part. Don't get wrapped up in the definition....just worry about its useage in day to day shooting.
If you don't mind my asking what brand scope is that one in the video. I'm looking for a good scope under $500 for my AR-15 with either mil dots or the mil hash marks. Around a 2.5-10x40ish area. Any recommendations?
coltcomphbar I do not have copies of any notes. I drew up the diagrams/reticle patterns myself. Just pause the video and copy them over. Nothing here is proprietary.
I dont get it... Does it really matter? If you know the distance to your target, and you know that your second mildot is on the target, why would you go through the trouble of "dialing it it", just shoot.
No it doesn't. Multiple ways to skin the cat for sure. But maybe you don't know distance to target. Or you accidentally lazed some high grass or a random object in the foreground of the target trying to get range without realizing. Or you suck ass acquiring range using the mil relation reticle excercise (not hard to do). For a beginner its good to get used to dialing. Making an accurate measurement upon a miss...and then reaffirmation by dialing getting the hit. Especially if the correction is a quite large one. Plus they will have the knobs staring them in the face come time to writing that dope down. If your half mil or less off....no big deal....hold it. Say your 4.5 mils low and 1.5 mils right (as often wind hold will be wrong if your initial elevation is wrong)...soaking up a bunch of that error if you have the time to do so is gonna be helpful.
Hey DFOOSKING. I just bought the EXACT scope as in the video (Leupold Mark 4 LR/T 8.5-25x50mm (30mm) M1 TMR) and I want to know what the recommended magnification is for zeroing the rifle where it is SFP. Please get back to me ASAP. Thanks and great video.
if you want to use the reticle to measure a correction....max magnification. Otherwise, there is no "best" magnification to zero with. I zero using clean copy paper with a dot because the reticle supplies the correction. No need for grid paper. If the conditions make using 25X difficult, use a grid paper and less magnification.
+bowhunter 85 I can run whatever I'm handed. I don't need a slide rule to make adjustments. I have a MDM but don't really use it ever. And if I do, it's for MIL relation ranging and I have other ways like a ballistic program or basic math calculator to that as well not to mention the primary way or a LRF. Not using a MDM making sight adjustments. I prefer matching turrets to reticle. And I prefer mils since pretty much only one version of mils is used on rifle scopes today unlike MOA which may be "shooters minutes" (1"@100yds) or "true minutes" (1.047@100yds)
+bowhunter 85 If I feel I'm at a disadvantage it's because my Mil/MOA scopes are all Second Focal Plane. And it's slower than using a matching setup. If you use a Mil/MOA scope you can train and be relatively fast with it. When I'm at a local match or training others I often spot for the entire firing line and give sight adjustments for everyone regardless of what they run. In the unlikelihood someone has a mil/moa setup....they still often make slight corrections holding off. in that case it's a MIL correction. If they want MOA for a dial correction... I can do that but holding is typically faster.
+bowhunter 85 a MIL is 3.6 inches at 100yds. a MIL is 3.438 MOA... not 3.438 inches at 100yds. Watch the mil/mil video. Your world will become immensely easier if you stop using inches or centimeters entirely. Just use MOA or Mils. In this video I show how to use your reticle (converting moa to mils). The reticle gives you the answer. Backtracking to inches is wasting time and effort. I even recommend getting a reticle equipped spotter as it makes your job immensely easier than playing guessing games on whether what you is 12" or 14.5" at 963yds. The reticle says your 1 MIL right.... hold 1 MIL left. No backtracking required. Then convert that 1 MIL right into MOA.... it's 3.5 MOA right. Again, no backtracking to inches.
Forgive me. Let me be more clear: What if I want to use a Mil dot reticle and MOA turrets while taking use of Metric Measurements (AKA SI units) instead of the Imperial System (i.e yards/inches). In other words, how many clicks = 1 mil?
Then use meters instead of yards. A mil is 3.438 MOA... If the target is 425 meters away...apply your dope for the shot...and if your one mil low...dial up 3.5 MOA and go. Angular adjustments (mils, MOA, 1IPHY) are not measurement sensitive. Just firgure out how many cm a inch is and convert it if your having a hard time grasping it. But honestly, their is no reason to need to. Just stick with MOA or Mils. I don't introduce inches into my shooting unless describing a target's size. The reticle is a ruler calibrated to the turrets. If I re-wrote my dope card in meters and told and had my LRF give me range in meters...it wouldn't change how you make sight adjustments.
DFOOSKING I feel that the only way to have a reticle that represents a _ruler calibrated to the turrets_ is to have a Mil/Mil for metric or Moa/Moa for imperial. Still, what you said about the 3,5 moa makes a lot of sense and can be useful with my cheap mil/moa scope. If it is 1/2 moa per click I guess that means 7 clicks for an approximation of a mil. The question becomes how accurate that is. Thanks by the way.
***** It's as accurate as physically possible. The turret IS calibrated to the ruler..its just not as intuitive or common sense as the true matching setups. It's still gonna be handier than eyeballing and guessing a dope correction based off a guess in inches or cm or whatever. And sweating .07 MOA variance (3.5 vs 3.438) is wasted effort. Noone can hold that tight so its a nonissue.
DFOOSKING Lol! I wasn't talking smack though. It probably is a word but doesnt sound right. Shit, this isn't school. Wait...kinda like school...you're teaching people. FML
I believe I am almost with you but I must ask range of zero since that is the base all ranging. As I understand, The rifle Must be zeroed at 100 yards? That will be 1 MOA. Once that is accomplished, I loosen turrets & dope scope Back to 'O'. Is that correct? I'm not a math guy as I was tutored in the concept of "New Math" in 1960 & it never made a bit of sense~!!
Ranging is determining distance. The word your looking for is DOPING (data on previous engagement)...not ranging. Your Zero can be at any distance you desire. If you choose a 100yd zero....Your turrets once sighted in should read ZERO. Then all dope in regards to distance grows off that. The ballistic calculator does the heavy lifting giving you initial dope...it's your job to confirm the dope or alter as needed. Eventually you'll have a complete dope chart for your rifle.
DFOOSKING Now you have me totally screwed. I have been zeroing my rifles for 200yds from 100yds. distance. Other wise,1.5-2" high at 100 referencing manf trajectory on ammo box. OK brother, I zero the scope for 100, loosen turrets & reset to the zero mark, press the turrets down to "O', tighten. That gives me my base to adjust to different ranges, which will be my DOPE?. Then if I am shooting at 100, finish, I dial back to my base 'O'. as if deflecting my artillery barrel back to Base "O"? Bin Laden sticks his dead head out at 300 yds, I dial 3 MOA? That would be "doping"? I suspect my Hi School algebra teacher is still jerking his hair out if he is still w/us? Of course that was 1967! Lol!
MARK MITCHELL Sight your rifle in at 100yds. Then dial in your scope to hit 200yds. Then Zero out your turrets. You now have a 200yd zero. So if it take you two inches to 200yds from a 100yd starting point....you dial UP 1 MOA. Because 1 MOA is 2" at 200yds. You can sight in at 100 and dial up to a 200yd dope and then zero your turrets. Your Zero is your starting point in the total travel of your elevation knob that all your dopes climb off of.
DFOOSKING So now you have a 200yd zero. If your box data says 10" of drop to hit 300yds....1 MOA at 300yds equals 3"....so you need 3.25 MOA. One 3" piece...another 3" piece...another 3" piece...and a fraction of a MOA to get the last 1" to get a total of 10 inches.
DFOOSKING Your box data is practically never accurate. The ammo maker has no clue what rifle your running...or what atmospheric conditions your shooting in. The box is giving you a guideline to start. You have to convert there drop into MOA and then test that sight setting to be sure for your individual weapon it's accurate. It may be close...but your job is to refine your dope to be as accurate as possible.
Because most arent shooting LR rigs inside 100yds. And if they are....its danger space is so huge that it doesn't require a sight adjustment to hit minute of gopher. Not sure if your referring to mechanical offset related shots....but that is not the point of this video. The high speed guys already get training for those type of shots. On rimfires, 100yds and in is common. And then it's just business as usual. So not sure what your concern is...
Your presentation is terrible! Your have papers everywhere with numbers and your hands all over them covering the details let alone the shaking and trembling! You obviously know your staff but you spoil it by your terrible presentation. Get some advice from a professional and do it over again!
*THAT WAS THE SIMPLEST EXPLANATION WE'VE HEARD ON MOA'S AND IT MADE PERFECT SENSE!!*
By far the easiest explaination of Mil/moa I've heard, thanks for the video!
Wow!!!!! I get it now. This is the simplest explanation with visual that I’ve seen. Thank you!!!!
Awesome video. I see why it is still on UA-cam after 10 Years. I was looking at that scope but was afraid I would not be able to figure out how to use the combination of measurements. I think I will get one now. Thanks.
Oh man my brain just fried.lol
Thanks for the explanation. Will have to watch it about 10 more times!
haha:)
*Hahaha, just keep watching till it sinks in, for me, this was the simplest explanation I've heard and now have confidence in getting a Leupold scope, but the 25 magnification is a bit too much for Colorado. You're lucky to see anything further than 100 yrds, as the forest is very thick.* *Too bad Leupold doesn't make a scope that's 4-18x50 in a Front Focal Plane, which is by far better than a rear focal plane and for a few reasons!*
Please make more instructional videos! I got a Vortex Viper with a Mil/MOA setup and this video made everything clear as day! Mil/Mil would be so much easier, but I'm a nerd and like the math. Dump your knowledge!
I've done a couple on sight adjustments and one on the mildot master. There are plenty of good instructional videos out there. But thank you. I add videos on things I find interesting or different or are simple things that help out guys. I may do a video on tricks you can do with scopes to gain holds or elevation travel or mapping out reticles.
I also have the Viper with the Mil reticle with 1/4 MOA adjustments on the turrets. This video helped a ton!
Old video, but always relevant. Thank you. Was wondering how a mil dot reticle with moa adjustments worked.
Best explanation of ranging targets I've seen on UA-cam. Thankyou so much DFOOSKING.
Thank you man. This is how you explain this to a common man
Great job in explaining that. A lot of people don't know the finer points and it can cost you a huge bull elk at 500 yards. The range card is something I make for each type ammo I am thinking about using. Good video!
Just knowing that the first mil dot is 3.5 MOA has changed everything! Thanks for the tips.
excellent explanation.,....honestly this is the best simplification on mil reticle with moa adjustments I have seen. Thank you. It now makes sense!
Also don't forget to watch the. Mil/Mil version.
You have my exact scope and this is the first mildot I've owned this was very informative I have it mounted to a barrett m99 so it's not cheap to practice thank you sir
Best explanation Ive seen. Thanks. I wish I could buy copies of those notes.
I have been subscribed for quite a while and never saw this video. Duh IDK You did such a great job thanks for posting!!!
thanks for your video
with this video i made some easy calculations for guys who use metric
1 MOA equals 2.908882 cm at 100m ( it is the sinus of 1/60 degree) approx 2.91cm
1 mildot is 3.437746 MOA means : 2.90882cm x3.437736 = 10cm
so 1 mildot equals 10cm at 100m
for who uses 1/8 MOA turrets every click equals 0.363 cm = approx 1/3 cm
for who uses 1/4 MOA turrets every click equals 0.727cm = approx 2/3 cm
Samuel Heraoui im not busting your balls but i was Wrighting this down and idk if you didnt catch it but your missing and 8 should be 2.908882 on tbe second one and the 3.437746 you put 37736 =10cm so im confused a little
@@MrMrGAsMASK hahaha
Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Although the video confused me at first after a few more views it made sense. When you were talking about your bullet dropping 2ft with no reticle you initially lost me at that part. You were skipping around some and so the 1,000 yard distance wasn't clear. Here is my .02$. Starting with a 100yd zero on the scope, lets figure for a target @ 400 yds. Instead of thinking of a bullet falling short of the target, lets think of bullet ballistics. Again starting with a 100yd Zero, my ballistic data tells me my .308 bullet will drop 31.30 inches @ 400yds. 31.30 inches is the amount my scope needs to be dialed up to. So @ 400yds, 1 MOA = 4". (according the information provided) We also know the turret has 4 clicks for 1 full MOA. Every 1/4 MOA click @ 400yds now represents 1" of adjustment. Since I need 31" of adjustment, that will also be 31 clicks. 31 clicks will dial you up to 7.75 MOA or 7 MOA + 3 more clicks. Also since you are working with 1/4 increments dividing 31 by 4 will quickly give you 7.75.
To take it even further to try for more accuracy lets recalculate using the exact number provided for MOA which is 1.047. So @ 400yds 1 MOA = 4.188 inches. The rest is simple using the same ballistic info for the .308 @ 400yds. The bullet will drop 31.30 inches. So, 31.3 (divided by) 4.188 = 7.474 which is close to 7.5 MOA. This new number should put me 1" closer to my point of aim as compared to 7.75 since every 1/4 click is roughly 1".
If this is wrong please feel free to edit/correct.
You got it. But the one thing I would do....is have the ballistic calculator give you the initial dope in MOA instead of inches. The calculator is doing the heavy lifting....no sense in getting answers in inches and then you yourself doing the conversion.
DFOOSKING the main objective is for the beginner to learn to use the reticle as well since its a valuable tool help supply you will corrections. Since you know understand inches to MOA....next is converting MOA based dope to Mil based dope to do holds onto the reticle. So if have 12 MOA for a given distance....divide that by 3.438 and you'll have the actual drop in mils.
I said it doesn't matter if it's two feet or ten miles when using the reticle. When the reticle is set at the mil setting your adjustments needed for corrections are easily determined by using no math whatsoever because the reticle supplies the correction. I then say IF YOU HAVE NO RETICLE WITH SUBTENTIONS (fine crosshair) you must go back to using the inches per hundred yards rule. There is also mapping out duplex reticles to make them a poor man's version of a hold over reticle....But that is beyond the scope of this video.
Best video I've seen so far. Thanks!
thank you
This guy change my world
You explain a little bit better thank you I’m still learning
Made simple. Excellent. Thank you!
Thank you sooooo Much! Great break down, Please shoot your windage video... Looking forward to it.
Let's watch... that will be a pain.. 🤣🤣 I agree with commenr below: BY FAR the easiest explanation I've heard
very helpful I will get there thanks good lesson
To turn a mil reading into moa divide the mil reading by 3. e.g. 1.5mil/3 = 5 MOA because every 1/10th mil = 1/3rd MOA (roughly: .034 vs .033). Another example: 3.43moa per mil/10=0.0343.
Hi ... could you go over a part of this flick at 4:53, where you say it don't matter how far away you are just so long as you have the reticle set at the mill setting. Please clear that part up for me. Is this where a rear focal scope has to be on about 10X for moa's to be correct. This moa explanation is the best yet, Thanks.
Awesome video, you appear to be highly qualified/credentialed. However, a range card would preclude having to convert mils to MOA or MOA to mils; thus, shooter can benefit from mil reticles superior ranging function and benefit from MOA superior elevation and windage adjustment when time is not an issue.
Most are not going to waste the time to draw up a range card/sector sketch. Either due to time or lack of experience. The whole point of the video is to teach you how to use the "mixed" system.
If I wanted to show immediate efficiencies....the video would be 10 seconds long and the screen would read "Buy turrets that match the reticle."
Another efficiency would be dial back the magnification so a mil measures 4 moa instead of 3.438 moa and have a true moa/moa setup. But that would not work in all optics (fixed power) and shooting scenarios (heavy mirage).
And most are not willing to remember one mil relation formula so asking them to learn another (for a MOA/MOA setup) is usually asking alot of a beginner. Granted, an individual carrying a MDM or just a ballistic app no doubt will be able to bypass that little issue. (Not something even covered here and for a reason).
Shooters are gonna gain value in this for the sole reason that they for whatever reason now have a mixed optic and at some point they will have to dial on top of holds to where the reticle is critically important. Or far more common....they miss a target (either by alot or by a little) and they will need/want to measure their miss and have a solution that directly correlates to their dials.
What baffles my mind is why my mixed optic video gets 2 to 3 times the traffic. And my mil/mil video has far less. Yes, there are other mil/mil videos and they have better quality videography but the info presented in both is adequate. It tells me there are plenty of people still buying and running mixed setups and few can actually teach the old system in a manner that is absorbable.
I also have a Leupold Mark 4 but the 6.5-20x50mm, I can not seem to find what magnification it has to be on for the mil reticle to be accurate? Do you happen to know?
Thanks!
Max power most likely. When in doubt...hang a yard stick at 100yds. At correct power it will measure 10 mils tall.
I have the same scope. Use 20x for all range finding work with this scope. Max magnification.
I heard people say you can reduce to half the power, from 20 to 10. Then double the height of the target and double the Mils to target.
For a six foot target you have two yards. You also see four Mil-dots on the target. Instead of calculating at 20x for (2x1000)/4=500 yards. At half magnification, 10x, you have (4x1000)/8=500 yards.
I tried the 6.5 power to get about ⅓ of the max power. So I tripled the height of target and Mils on target. So, (6x1000)/12=500. So it is possible to get three places you can calculate on a 2nd focal plane scope. This is only to determine the distance to target. I don't know if you can do this for using the reticle to shoot from. Say if you need 2 mils to get on target. Setting on 20x would be the correct mils needed. If your on 10x power, I don't know if you would hold over 4 mils to get on target. I wouldn't bet on it.
Great explanation
Wow this helped a ton! Thanks for this video man!!
With a 4x24x 40 scope what should the zoom be set at when you are using mil to get distance to target.
just depends on where the scope maker put it. Usually it's max power.....but not always. Just make a target paper with a marks every 3.6" and place the target at exactly 100yds. Then change your magnification till the mils line up with the marks on the target.
should be noted in your scope's manual
@@DFOOSKING noted but not always correct.
If the scope is zeroed at 25 yards, how many clicks will it require to hit a targer at 100 yards?
Depends on a bunch of factors
How many clicks at 25 yards?
THIS REALLY HELPED ME THANX JUST SUBBED
When you did the scope measurements how many yards would it be shooting at to be those inches or mils
Don't understand your question.
Never mind I figured it out thanks tho
I forgot most of that crap at school with whole pie being 3.14 and the whole using the "sin" on the calculator and the while "ASS or angle side side" crap but this i wish they would teach. You do a good job but i wish i had someone i could try this out on paper and have them say good job thats right or nope you would have missed and explain it to me. Today all "pie" means to me is the stuff you eat..."sin" is why you need Jesus....and "ASS" is well you know. Thank you for the video
also im looking for one of these style scopes for my air gun $50 and under would be nisce any recomend dations
Ok,if you have 17.5 mil at the top of the bottom post,would that get you out to 1000 yards,say with a .308?
Not even close....
I bought the 8.5x25 with the M1 but had them changed it to M5
Congrats. There is a MIL based adjustments version of this video as well.
Why in your lecture of MIL/MIL scope is a MIL = 3.6" then for a MIL/MOA scope a MIL is 3.43".... ARE THE MILS DIFFERENT on the TWO different types of scopes?
A mil is 3.43 MOA at ANY RANGE. At 100yds....3.43 MOA equals 3.6". It's the same thing in regards to that distance. The main thing is to understand the 3.43 MOA at ANY RANGE part. Don't get wrapped up in the definition....just worry about its useage in day to day shooting.
DFOOSKING a minute is 1.047" at 100yds. So multiply the number of inches by the number of mils....1.047 x 3.438= 3.6"
Make sense?
ur deff not kidding thanks man
Thank you.
If you don't mind my asking what brand scope is that one in the video. I'm looking for a good scope under $500 for my AR-15 with either mil dots or the mil hash marks. Around a 2.5-10x40ish area. Any recommendations?
I said at the beginning it was Leupold 8.5-25x50mm MK4. Lol
Look at Weaver, Vortex, or Bushnell for possible scopes in that price range.
There I go being a dumbass skipping around. Thank you
Can i buy copies of your notes? Please
coltcomphbar I do not have copies of any notes. I drew up the diagrams/reticle patterns myself. Just pause the video and copy them over. Nothing here is proprietary.
I dont get it... Does it really matter?
If you know the distance to your target, and you know that your second mildot is on the target, why would you go through the trouble of "dialing it it", just shoot.
No it doesn't. Multiple ways to skin the cat for sure.
But maybe you don't know distance to target. Or you accidentally lazed some high grass or a random object in the foreground of the target trying to get range without realizing. Or you suck ass acquiring range using the mil relation reticle excercise (not hard to do).
For a beginner its good to get used to dialing. Making an accurate measurement upon a miss...and then reaffirmation by dialing getting the hit. Especially if the correction is a quite large one. Plus they will have the knobs staring them in the face come time to writing that dope down.
If your half mil or less off....no big deal....hold it. Say your 4.5 mils low and 1.5 mils right (as often wind hold will be wrong if your initial elevation is wrong)...soaking up a bunch of that error if you have the time to do so is gonna be helpful.
I'm so glad I'm a wizard with figures😁😆
thank You
Your welcome!
Hey DFOOSKING. I just bought the EXACT scope as in the video (Leupold Mark 4 LR/T 8.5-25x50mm (30mm) M1 TMR) and I want to know what the recommended magnification is for zeroing the rifle where it is SFP. Please get back to me ASAP. Thanks and great video.
if you want to use the reticle to measure a correction....max magnification. Otherwise, there is no "best" magnification to zero with. I zero using clean copy paper with a dot because the reticle supplies the correction. No need for grid paper. If the conditions make using 25X difficult, use a grid paper and less magnification.
+bowhunter 85 I can run whatever I'm handed. I don't need a slide rule to make adjustments. I have a MDM but don't really use it ever. And if I do, it's for MIL relation ranging and I have other ways like a ballistic program or basic math calculator to that as well not to mention the primary way or a LRF. Not using a MDM making sight adjustments.
I prefer matching turrets to reticle. And I prefer mils since pretty much only one version of mils is used on rifle scopes today unlike MOA which may be "shooters minutes" (1"@100yds) or "true minutes" (1.047@100yds)
+bowhunter 85 If I feel I'm at a disadvantage it's because my Mil/MOA scopes are all Second Focal Plane. And it's slower than using a matching setup. If you use a Mil/MOA scope you can train and be relatively fast with it. When I'm at a local match or training others I often spot for the entire firing line and give sight adjustments for everyone regardless of what they run. In the unlikelihood someone has a mil/moa setup....they still often make slight corrections holding off. in that case it's a MIL correction. If they want MOA for a dial correction... I can do that but holding is typically faster.
+bowhunter 85 also, if you are not aware I've also done a mil/mil version of this video.
+bowhunter 85 a MIL is 3.6 inches at 100yds. a MIL is 3.438 MOA... not 3.438 inches at 100yds.
Watch the mil/mil video.
Your world will become immensely easier if you stop using inches or centimeters entirely.
Just use MOA or Mils. In this video I show how to use your reticle (converting moa to mils). The reticle gives you the answer. Backtracking to inches is wasting time and effort. I even recommend getting a reticle equipped spotter as it makes your job immensely easier than playing guessing games on whether what you is 12" or 14.5" at 963yds. The reticle says your 1 MIL right.... hold 1 MIL left. No backtracking required. Then convert that 1 MIL right into MOA.... it's 3.5 MOA right.
Again, no backtracking to inches.
Thanks
Your welcome
What if I want to use metric?
Metric what?
Forgive me. Let me be more clear:
What if I want to use a Mil dot reticle and MOA turrets while taking use of Metric Measurements (AKA SI units) instead of the Imperial System (i.e yards/inches).
In other words, how many clicks = 1 mil?
Then use meters instead of yards. A mil is 3.438 MOA...
If the target is 425 meters away...apply your dope for the shot...and if your one mil low...dial up 3.5 MOA and go.
Angular adjustments (mils, MOA, 1IPHY) are not measurement sensitive. Just firgure out how many cm a inch is and convert it if your having a hard time grasping it.
But honestly, their is no reason to need to. Just stick with MOA or Mils. I don't introduce inches into my shooting unless describing a target's size. The reticle is a ruler calibrated to the turrets. If I re-wrote my dope card in meters and told and had my LRF give me range in meters...it wouldn't change how you make sight adjustments.
DFOOSKING I feel that the only way to have a reticle that represents a _ruler calibrated to the turrets_ is to have a Mil/Mil for metric or Moa/Moa for imperial.
Still, what you said about the 3,5 moa makes a lot of sense and can be useful with my cheap mil/moa scope. If it is 1/2 moa per click I guess that means 7 clicks for an approximation of a mil. The question becomes how accurate that is.
Thanks by the way.
***** It's as accurate as physically possible. The turret IS calibrated to the ruler..its just not as intuitive or common sense as the true matching setups. It's still gonna be handier than eyeballing and guessing a dope correction based off a guess in inches or cm or whatever. And sweating .07 MOA variance (3.5 vs 3.438) is wasted effort. Noone can hold that tight so its a nonissue.
Timesing it? WTF? You mean multiplying it? I wonder if timesing is a word? IDK.
SAVAGE308SNIPER LOL.... that's the high quality vocab you get when I do the whole thing in a single pass with editing software.
DFOOSKING Lol! I wasn't talking smack though. It probably is a word but doesnt sound right. Shit, this isn't school. Wait...kinda like school...you're teaching people. FML
SAVAGE308SNIPER no worries man.
This should have been taught in math class
I believe I am almost with you but I must ask range of zero since that is the base all ranging. As I understand, The rifle Must be zeroed at 100 yards? That will be 1 MOA. Once that is accomplished, I loosen turrets & dope scope Back to 'O'. Is that correct? I'm not a math guy as I was tutored in the concept of "New Math" in 1960 & it never made a bit of sense~!!
Ranging is determining distance. The word your looking for is DOPING (data on previous engagement)...not ranging. Your Zero can be at any distance you desire. If you choose a 100yd zero....Your turrets once sighted in should read ZERO. Then all dope in regards to distance grows off that. The ballistic calculator does the heavy lifting giving you initial dope...it's your job to confirm the dope or alter as needed. Eventually you'll have a complete dope chart for your rifle.
DFOOSKING Now you have me totally screwed. I have been zeroing my rifles for 200yds
from 100yds. distance. Other wise,1.5-2" high at 100 referencing manf trajectory on ammo box. OK brother, I zero the scope for 100, loosen turrets & reset to the zero mark, press the turrets down to "O', tighten. That gives me my base to adjust to different ranges, which will be my DOPE?. Then if I am shooting at 100, finish, I dial back to my base 'O'. as if deflecting my artillery barrel back to Base "O"? Bin Laden sticks his dead head out at 300 yds, I dial 3 MOA? That would be "doping"? I suspect my Hi School algebra teacher is still jerking his hair out if he is still w/us? Of course that was 1967! Lol!
MARK MITCHELL
Sight your rifle in at 100yds. Then dial in your scope to hit 200yds. Then Zero out your turrets. You now have a 200yd zero. So if it take you two inches to 200yds from a 100yd starting point....you dial UP 1 MOA. Because 1 MOA is 2" at 200yds. You can sight in at 100 and dial up to a 200yd dope and then zero your turrets. Your Zero is your starting point in the total travel of your elevation knob that all your dopes climb off of.
DFOOSKING
So now you have a 200yd zero. If your box data says 10" of drop to hit 300yds....1 MOA at 300yds equals 3"....so you need 3.25 MOA. One 3" piece...another 3" piece...another 3" piece...and a fraction of a MOA to get the last 1" to get a total of 10 inches.
DFOOSKING
Your box data is practically never accurate. The ammo maker has no clue what rifle your running...or what atmospheric conditions your shooting in. The box is giving you a guideline to start. You have to convert there drop into MOA and then test that sight setting to be sure for your individual weapon it's accurate. It may be close...but your job is to refine your dope to be as accurate as possible.
I never hear anyone talking about adjustments short of 100 yrds
Because most arent shooting LR rigs inside 100yds. And if they are....its danger space is so huge that it doesn't require a sight adjustment to hit minute of gopher.
Not sure if your referring to mechanical offset related shots....but that is not the point of this video. The high speed guys already get training for those type of shots.
On rimfires, 100yds and in is common. And then it's just business as usual.
So not sure what your concern is...
Your presentation is terrible! Your have papers everywhere with numbers and your hands all over them covering the details let alone the shaking and trembling! You obviously know your staff but you spoil it by your terrible presentation. Get some advice from a professional and do it over again!
Thank you