our shop for the last several years have encountered several repairs of this sort. your report is good and i think common sense plays a major role in repairs in service to component level . this saves money and time
@Synaux I think the best capacitor tester for around a hundred bucks is the Blue ESR capacitor tester. If you go to my website at tvrepairinfo you will find a link you can click on that has some comparisons about the various capacitor testers. As far as your question about Rubycon capacitors I don't know much about them. I generally order my caps from digikey and I suspect most of the caps they sells are pretty good. They have a lot of Panasonic capacitors, United Chemicon, and Nichicon .
Hello there! Its 8.30pm here in philippines so good evening sir... I received your email and thanks for the advice, I am in the province of bicol about 10hrs away from manila capital of philippines and a lot of people here are poor and they use old surplus TVs so its hard for me to repair them because spare parts are unavailable and hard to find. So I looked in the internet and I've found your tutorials and its a great help,could you add more videos so I could learn more tnx
He is the best on FB. I always enjoy watching his video. I work on TVs as a hobby and his videos have helped me learn alot over the last two years. Please keep up the good work. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos
There are many things you can do. If you scroll down my website at TVREPAIRINFO . COM you can see my demonstrating some techniques you may find helpful. Dave
@GrantsPassTVRepairs Thanks for taking notice to my comment and I would also like to thank you for inspiring me to jump head first in learning to repair tvs. I just ordered several of the books you hav e recommended in throughout your videos. Im a hvac commercial install tech thats had a hard time keeping work and along with knowing all sorts of people having problems with these new tvs I believe with alot of commitment and research I can learn this trade backwards and forward. Thank again.
Glad to hear it worked. Make sure you apply some new heat sink compound back on the back side any semiconductors or transistors that need it, Otherwise the replacements will not last. Dave
The LeakSeeker is a great, but I have an antique ohmmeter which is able to divide an ohm into 50 divisions, and so far It worked well enough in helping me locate most low resistance shorts. I was told the blue ESR Meter is able to divide on ohm into 100 divisions so that might another option if the leak seeker is out of your budget, plus It can give you ESR values for capacitors.
Yes I suggest you watch all of my videos and see if you can fix it your self. I give away lots of good tips. I have a complete index to all my free videos at TV REPAIR INFO . COM
@VooDooGeorge83 Replacing an inverter board is generally pretty easy. Inverter boards are often the cause of no back light but I suggest you look at the rear of the TV through the ventilation slots to see if the back light is working. The back light can be working but the loss of a video signal will block the light. That's why I suggest looking at the rear of the TV to see if it's working. Just don't to confuse it with the light coming from the power on indicator LEDs. Dave
Thanks Dave. I looked in there and see one bulged at the top. I've watched all your vids by now and I know that's not necessarily the only one. Funny, there are 4 caps with the same specs, but from 2 different manufacturers.
In a case where a TV is slow to come on, I would try the hair dryer tick to see if warming the capacitors improves the problem. I have seen boarder line capacitors cause a no start symptom. You might check with Acers customer support about that icon which stays on the screen.
thanks dude for the knowledge you shared with someone ordinary. Im just a starter and i really can catch up with lots of problems with your guidance... God bless and post some more! keep rising
@sepertude Your correct in that the ESR value will be higher with a higher voltage but have you ever ran into a problem by going up a few extra volts? I don't think I ever have. I'm going to put an additional annotation warning people not to go up to high in voltage. Thank you for pointing that out. Dave
@lionbrains In most cases you can figure out if it's the tactile switches by unplugging the wiring harness which goes to the tactile switches while using the remote control to see if the problem goes away. Dave
@xavielo83 I don't know for sure but you might try warming certain portions of your circuit board to see if the problem improves. Often times a bad capacitor will slightly improve when it's warm. Good luck.
I don't know about the color problem but it's not likely to be related to a bad tuner. In regards to your HDMI jacks going out If your TV has a separate board with the input and output jacks replacing this board may fix your problem, but the lightning may have also effected the main board as well.
Its hard to guess at a problem of this nature, but going over mikes tv case histories it mentions first checking for loose connections on ribbon cables. Other symptoms like yours were caused by bad LCD screens and in one case bad capacitors in the power supply.
@GrantsPassTVRepairs I sure hope so! I am actually more amazed with CRT's and would love to get into restoring older tv sets. Hope to see some videos of that soon!
@aristv93 Many times a TV which has damaged from a lighting strike can be repaired. It all depends on the intensity of the strike. The power supply is the first part to be effected. Start by checking the simple stuff like the fuse, thermistor, bridge, caps and voltage regulators.
If you talking about the end of the ribbon cable that is suppose to be attached to the LCD Display there is no fix that I'm aware of, but I'm not sure this is what you mean. If you talking about the other end it can be reseated if you lift the lever on the connector and re-seat the cable into position that flapping lever back in place.
I'm fairly happy with this meter but others have told me there are better options such as the capacitor wizard, If your thinking of buying one I would suggest you do your own research. There are lots of opinions out there.
@Ncharlestun The main generally has the tuner on it and may be under a metal plate but it's not the same thing as the T-con board which is also under a metal shielding.
@GrantsPassTVRepairs The main/main logic board was under 3 easily removed plates with cooling holes and along side the power supply. You lift up this assembly and can access screws to remove the smaller T-Conn board metal cover panel. I am going to reassemble to test the screen in darkness. There is no visible damage, fuse is good, caps look good but as you said caps may look good but may be bad. An old girlfriend gave it to me to examine after a repairman said it was the "logic" board.
@urouk Here is one possible reason for the problem your having. Most power supplies in VCRs and other electronic devices have a thermistor and a choke which prevent to much inrush current from doing damage to the power supply when you first turn it on. If your thermistor was shorted or the choke was shorted between the windings a larger fuse might solve the problem for a while but with out inrush current protection you may have damaged the diodes in your bridge rectifier or other components.
Thank you very much for your tips. I've subscribed to your channel already. I have a 37" LCD (visio) that I need to fix. I am pretty sure I will be looking to your website too. You are right, this is a tough hobby, specially for beginners. People like you help many others. Keep up the good work.
@NETWizzJbirk You can test most capacitors with out removing them but when there are two or three in a parallel circuit often times One or Two capacitors need to be removed in order to get an accurate reading.
@cris15ization If I had a symptom of this nature I would first try tapping the TV to see if this changed the static noise any. If so it would suggest there might be a bad solder connection on the audio board. I often use a 10 power jewelers loop magnifying glass to see if there are any bad solder connections. Dave
Would you please make a video explain different types of flat panel tv's and the basic layout of boards on them and what circuitry is usually on each board. Audio, video, power supply, monitor driver boards and what the connectors that go to the screen and talk about the back light. I am sorry but I would like to understand the basics and I feel that would help greatly to understand how to approach repairing my own tv. Thanks again and have found your videos very interesting.
@impagd I think Element is made by Proview. You might start by looking at the numbers on the board and see if you can find a cross over on the internet.
Hi, yes I have owned the one you have and another one MCM sells but found the Smith meter the best for ESR and low ohm measure. Very accurate. Most important bench tool I own and have had the Dick Smith since 1985.
@Thetruthishere11 On LCD TVs I would say the most common failure is bad capacitors in the power supply. The second most common problems are inverter transformers opening up on the secondary side. On Plasma TVs I'm not sure of their most common failures.
@jamieeiv IF YOU GO TO MY WEB SITE AT TV REPAIR INFO . COM YOU WILL FIND TWO OR THREE SOURCES TO BUY PARTS. THE BUFFER BOARD COST LESS SO YOU MIGHT START BY REPLACING IT FIRST TO SEE IF THIS FIXES THE PROBLEM. i WAS TOLD WHEN A BUFFER BOARD GOES OUT IT CAN BE A SHORTED TRANSISTOR ON THE BUFFER BOARD. IF YOU CAREFULLY PLACE YOUR FINGER ON EACH TRANSISTOR THE SHORTED ONE MAY FEEL WARMER THAN THE OTHERS. THIS TECHNIQUE CAN BE HELPFUL IN DETERMINING IF THE BUFFER BOARD HAS A PROBLEM.
@FlakeyFreakout There are some sections of a TV which have enough voltage to give you a serious shock but I can't say if it would be fatal or not. I have had many shocks in my life and a couple were pretty serious but nothing has killed me so far. Other than doing some voltage tests all of the repairs I do are with the power off and the TV unplugged!
Yes some Y-sustain boards may be a bit more difficult to remove due to the heat sink compound which may have become sticky over time. If you can use a torch with out damaging the PC board it may be helpful but be careful not to damage the circuit board. Dave
Thank you for answering. Yes, I agree, it really does look like a TV screen would look, if it were damaged. I went to your website. I cannot figure out which video would help my particular problem? or maybe give me a quick rundown of repairs, parts (if any), etc.
@adam3176 I would not advise you to do otherwise. I was just making the point that not all bad capacitors bulge. Many times they are bad when they look fine.
After lightning strikes a TV it's generally the power supply which gets damaged. If your lucky it may have only damaged the fuse and varistor which is suppose to short in such an instance to protect your TV from further damage, but with such a high voltage going into your TV from the lightning strike it may have also damaged several other components such as the power IC and or the Power transistor along with a few other parts.
@baldmikey96 Most likely a power supply problem. I would start by checking the obvious things like your fuse, caps and switching transistors. You might have a bad varistor as well.
You can fix it if your willing to spend the time necessary to troubleshoot the audio circuit, but I can't tell you where the problem is by guess work. Sometimes a firmware issue can cause the sound to quit working, so you might look into reloading your firmware.
@proudmomofjj It could be a faulty component on the board which has all your input jacks but I would start with the simple things such as looking for small hairline cracks on the board and make sure the power supply inputs to the Jack pack isn't missing or being shorted to ground. I can's say specifically what the voltages should be with out a schematic but I would think most of the voltages on this board would be around 5 volts.
When you have a shorted components such as ICs, diodes or transistors your fuses will keep blowing until you replace the bad component. The gentleman who told you a fuse is a fuse is partly correct but there are some applications that call for a slow blow fuse. In your case I would guess you probably have some shorted components. Dave
@mtogono Yes the voltage will remain the same when capacitors are in parallel. In a series circuit the capacitors can handle a higher voltage but their microfarad value goes down.
@Mikeybat07 I can't say for sure but some have found there is an adjustment labeled VS which can be re-adjusted to eliminate the green and red dots. If you adjust this variable resistor just make sure you mark where to put it back in case it doesn't help. Dave
I would suggest you test all the components in the front end of the power supply. There is a good chance the damage didn't get past the power supply. The key components I would suggest testing are the bridge rectifier and the varistor. The power IC and any switching transistors used on the primary side of the power supply.
@highlandre70 Yes, There are some instances where a bad capacitor on the main board can prevent the TV from turning on, but it's more common on the power supply board.
@PlymouthVT I heard that Dick Smith quit advertising them but I noticed there is an aftermarket Dick Smith ESR meter advertised for around a hundred bucks in one of my catalogs. Hopefully its just as good. Thanks again.
@comedianonstage bad tactile switches may become leaky and cause this. You can unplug the wiring harness that goes to them and see if the problem goes away. If it does you probably need to replace them.
I can't guess at what's causing your LCD display to turn red but did you check the simple things such as freezing the edges of the LCD display to see if you noticed any improvements? Does the problem improve when you use different inputs or slightly warm the circuit boards? How about reseating your ribbon cables? Is the voltage going to your T-con board as high as it should be? (Generally around 12 volts) and does it have any detectable AC ripple on its B+.input.
In all honesty I don't know who makes the best set now days. I was having a lot of problems with Magnavox cathode ray tube TVs, so I'm not sure if they are doing any better with the new LCD TVs. I use to think Panasonic was the best, but the one thing I would suggest is that you consider paying extra for an extended warranty.
That Number you gave me doesn't appear to be a part number. Nothing came up when I Googled it. Here are a couple fast switching diodes that I'm often able to use as substitutes in power supplies.MR856G is a 3 amp 600 PRV. If you need a Ultra fast switching diode you can often use a MUR460G. it can handle 4 amps at 600 prv. If you can get by with only 1 amp at 600 PRV you can often use an RGP10J. I believe this also crosses to an NTE 552. Hope this helps.
@Lockemeister I don't know if MIkes book has the problem. You can call him and ask. He will generally give a person one free tip. Sometimes it only seems that the high voltage is working because it turns on for a second and then shuts down, and this can be long enough give you the impression the high voltage is working. Did you check out the horizontal output transistor for shorts and the flyback transformer?
@marcsummerhays Perhaps the 12 volt source is missing because the power supply is not in the run mode so you only have your stand by power. Sometimes you don't get your other voltages until the power supply is in the switched on or run mode. On the power supply board it may say switched or SW on the output terminal letting you know it must be on to have a voltage present. Dave
Best to be careful around high voltage stuff until you understand what your dealing with. Ham radio is a great hobby that can help you meet lots of great people with a strong background in electronics. I'm also a ham. 73s
@TehUberCyberBeast I thought about doing some videos on CRT TVs, but considering they are being phased out I figured it would be best to stick with the newer sets.
A good presentation, although, with an ESR meter, it is recommended that a new capacitor (electrolytic) is measured, then compared with the measurement of the old, and if there is a vast difference, replace. With switch mode power supplies, it is imperative that 'low ESR' electrolytic capacitors are fitted in the regulation circuit of the 'chopper' transistor; the one nearest the base connection in the circuit. A little more expensive, but avoids catastrophic results with a cold switch-on..
cool, you let go of a lot of industry secrets in one video, I'll definitly be watching the rest soon. btw im currently trying to fix 52" RCA projection Tv with only an digital volt/Ohm Meter. I hate when there's nothing visually wrong.
@jawbraeka Because NTSC uses 525 scan lines per frame it would take more than a tuner modification to be able to accept a pal signal which is 625 scan lines per frame. I don't know the answer to your other question.
@hughesbill45 If your talking about an older style TV a green screen can mean one of your color transistors is shorted or your picture tube elements are shorted. You can get the picture tube rejuvenated to see if that helps but often times it's not worth the effort and may even make the problem worse.
Water may have created a conductive path where the tape carrier package is bonded to the LCD Display. Perhaps it will dry out in a couple days but there is also a possibility you may have damaged the display even though you didn't apply much pressure.
@adam3176 Sometimes there is not easy answer to finding out what's wrong with the new TVs. Personally speaking I generally don't go to far beyond the power supplies and the inverter boars which are two of the most common problems areas. For the more abstract stuff such as you will find on the T-con board and the main boards aside from testing capacitors, voltage regulators, and loose ribbon cables, and bad solder connections I don't knock my self out to figure them all out.
@rhblakeman My cap tester is the cap 88 made by electronic design specialists. The cap wizard may be a better choice. The blue ESR is also suppose to be a good choice. Dave
@GrantsPassTVRepairs no, i haven't , that is a good tip though, perhaps the HV is up only for a sec. i suppose i can get a neon light near the HV cable on a plastic dowel to see if I have the HV for more than a second
It could be a variety of things. If you watch all my free videos on this channel I'm sure you might get some good ideas on how to test which board is malfunctioning . I also have a directory at TV REPAIR INFO . COM
@WatsonAndHillhouse I would not know its value without a schematic. Sometimes you can make an educated guess by seeing what part of the circuit it's in but I would need to see the circuit board.
@rocznrowsez I'm wondering if your LCD display is starting to disconnect where the tape carrier package connections attach to the side of the screen. You might try using freeze spray on the screen edges to see if the problem improves. If so there isn't much you can do other than jam a piece of rubber behind the display connections but that's a long shot. You might start by reseating some of the ribbon cables and looking for bad connections.
our shop for the last several years have encountered several repairs of this sort. your report is good and i think common sense plays a major role in repairs in service to component level . this saves money and time
Mr Maltz. This video popped up on my youtube! And it has an entire commercial playing before the show! You are FAMOUS. :-)
What can I get with so much fame?
@@GrantsPassTVRepair A lot of appreciation and enthusiasm... :-)
@Synaux I think the best capacitor tester for around a hundred bucks is the Blue ESR capacitor tester.
If you go to my website at tvrepairinfo you will find a link you can click on that has some comparisons about the various capacitor testers.
As far as your question about Rubycon capacitors I don't know much about them. I generally order my caps from digikey and I suspect most of the caps they sells are pretty good. They have a lot of Panasonic capacitors, United Chemicon, and Nichicon .
Hello there! Its 8.30pm here in philippines so good evening sir... I received your email and thanks for the advice, I am in the province of bicol about 10hrs away from manila capital of philippines and a lot of people here are poor and they use old surplus TVs so its hard for me to repair them because spare parts are unavailable and hard to find. So I looked in the internet and I've found your tutorials and its a great help,could you add more videos so I could learn more tnx
That sound about right. Last week I repaired a 21 year old Mitsubishi TV and its working great.
Keep up the good work. I used to be a TV repairman and have lots of repair tips on my blog, but never thought of making rapair videos!
He is the best on FB. I always enjoy watching his video. I work on TVs as a hobby and his videos have helped me learn alot over the last two years. Please keep up the good work. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos
There are many things you can do. If you scroll down my website at TVREPAIRINFO . COM
you can see my demonstrating some techniques you may find helpful.
Dave
@GrantsPassTVRepairs Thanks for taking notice to my comment and I would also like to thank you for inspiring me to jump head first in learning to repair tvs. I just ordered several of the books you hav e recommended in throughout your videos. Im a hvac commercial install tech thats had a hard time keeping work and along with knowing all sorts of people having problems with these new tvs I believe with alot of commitment and research I can learn this trade backwards and forward. Thank again.
Glad to hear it worked. Make sure you apply some new heat sink compound back on the back side any semiconductors or transistors that need it, Otherwise the replacements will not last.
Dave
The LeakSeeker is a great, but I have an antique ohmmeter which is able to divide an ohm into 50 divisions, and so far It worked well enough in helping me locate most low resistance shorts. I was told the blue ESR Meter is able to divide on ohm into 100 divisions so that might another option if the leak seeker is out of your budget, plus It can give you ESR values for capacitors.
Yes I suggest you watch all of my videos and see if you can fix it your self.
I give away lots of good tips.
I have a complete index to all my free videos at TV REPAIR INFO . COM
Grants Pass' self-made electronic genius, and all around good guy.
@VooDooGeorge83 Replacing an inverter board is generally pretty easy. Inverter boards are often the cause of no back light but I suggest you look at the rear of the TV through the ventilation slots to see if the back light is working. The back light can be working but the loss of a video signal will block the light. That's why I suggest looking at the rear of the TV to see if it's working. Just don't to confuse it with the light coming from the power on indicator LEDs.
Dave
@borninlaos1
Watch all of my videos. You can't always detect a bad capacitor by looking at it.
TV REPAIR INFO . COM
People in America still repair televisions? Very informative and useful.
Thanks Dave. I looked in there and see one bulged at the top. I've watched all your vids by now and I know that's not necessarily the only one. Funny, there are 4 caps with the same specs, but from 2 different manufacturers.
I use the cap analizer 88. I don't know if its the best, but I'm pretty happy with it.
In a case where a TV is slow to come on, I would try the hair dryer tick to see if warming the capacitors improves the problem. I have seen boarder line capacitors cause a no start symptom.
You might check with Acers customer support about that icon which stays on the screen.
thanks dude for the knowledge you shared with someone ordinary. Im just a starter and i really can catch up with lots of problems with your guidance... God bless and post some more! keep rising
@sepertude Your correct in that the ESR value will be higher with a higher voltage but have you ever ran into a problem by going up a few extra volts? I don't think I ever have. I'm going to put an additional annotation warning people not to go up to high in voltage. Thank you for pointing that out.
Dave
@lionbrains In most cases you can figure out if it's the tactile switches by unplugging the wiring harness which goes to the tactile switches while using the remote control to see if the problem goes away.
Dave
@xavielo83 I don't know for sure but you might try warming certain portions of your circuit board to see if the problem improves. Often times a bad capacitor will slightly improve when it's warm.
Good luck.
I don't know about the color problem but it's not likely to be related to a bad tuner. In regards to your HDMI jacks going out If your TV has a separate board with the input and output jacks replacing this board may fix your problem, but the lightning may have also effected the main board as well.
Its hard to guess at a problem of this nature, but going over mikes tv case histories it mentions first checking for loose connections on ribbon cables. Other symptoms like yours were caused by bad LCD screens and in one case bad capacitors in the power supply.
@GrantsPassTVRepairs I sure hope so! I am actually more amazed with CRT's and would love to get into restoring older tv sets. Hope to see some videos of that soon!
Such a good information related with the testing in high voltage power
@aristv93 Many times a TV which has damaged from a lighting strike can be repaired. It all depends on the intensity of the strike. The power supply is the first part to be effected. Start by checking the simple stuff like the fuse, thermistor, bridge, caps and voltage regulators.
If you talking about the end of the ribbon cable that is suppose to be attached to the LCD Display there is no fix that I'm aware of, but I'm not sure this is what you mean. If you talking about the other end it can be reseated if you lift the lever on the connector and re-seat the cable into position that flapping lever back in place.
I'm fairly happy with this meter but others have told me there are better options such as the capacitor wizard, If your thinking of buying one I would suggest you do your own research. There are lots of opinions out there.
@ArtistBlade1972 Yes I have made bipolar caps a few times and they worked fine.
@Ncharlestun The main generally has the tuner on it and may be under a metal plate but it's not the same thing as the T-con board which is also under a metal shielding.
Dave just wanted to Thank you for comeing out and hooking up my T.V. I get my Ion channel!!! God Bless !! Katie&Bob
Thanks so much Dave for all your expert advice! Wish us luck on the TV repair out here in Ca. Have a great day!
Debbie
@GrantsPassTVRepairs The main/main logic board was under 3 easily removed plates with cooling holes and along side the power supply. You lift up this assembly and can access screws to remove the smaller T-Conn board metal cover panel. I am going to reassemble to test the screen in darkness. There is no visible damage, fuse is good, caps look good but as you said caps may look good but may be bad. An old girlfriend gave it to me to examine after a repairman said it was the "logic" board.
@urouk Here is one possible reason for the problem your having.
Most power supplies in VCRs and other electronic devices have a thermistor and a choke which prevent to much inrush current from doing damage to the power supply when you first turn it on. If your thermistor was shorted or the choke was shorted between the windings a larger fuse might solve the problem for a while but with out inrush current protection you may have damaged the diodes in your bridge rectifier or other components.
@Wildmekk The most common reason for a symptom such as you described is the inverter board.
Thank you very much for your tips. I've subscribed to your channel already. I have a 37" LCD (visio) that I need to fix. I am pretty sure I will be looking to your website too.
You are right, this is a tough hobby, specially for beginners. People like you help many others. Keep up the good work.
@NETWizzJbirk You can test most capacitors with out removing them but when there are two or three in a parallel circuit often times One or Two capacitors need to be removed in order to get an accurate reading.
@GrantsPassTVRepairs i found the answer to my 2nd question but thankyou for all the information you've provided.. saved me a lot of time.
@cris15ization If I had a symptom of this nature I would first try tapping the TV to see if this changed the static noise any. If so it would suggest there might be a bad solder connection on the audio board. I often use a 10 power jewelers loop magnifying glass to see if there are any bad solder connections.
Dave
Would you please make a video explain different types of flat panel tv's and the basic layout of boards on them and what circuitry is usually on each board. Audio, video, power supply, monitor driver boards and what the connectors that go to the screen and talk about the back light. I am sorry but I would like to understand the basics and I feel that would help greatly to understand how to approach repairing my own tv. Thanks again and have found your videos very interesting.
@impagd
I think Element is made by Proview. You might start by looking at the numbers on the board and see if you can find a cross over on the internet.
Hi, yes I have owned the one you have and another one MCM sells but found the Smith meter the best for ESR and low ohm measure. Very accurate. Most important bench tool I own and have had the Dick Smith since 1985.
@Thetruthishere11 On LCD TVs I would say the most common failure is bad capacitors in the power supply. The second most common problems are inverter transformers opening up on the secondary side.
On Plasma TVs I'm not sure of their most common failures.
@jamieeiv IF YOU GO TO MY WEB SITE AT TV REPAIR INFO . COM YOU WILL FIND TWO OR THREE SOURCES TO BUY PARTS. THE BUFFER BOARD COST LESS SO YOU MIGHT START BY REPLACING IT FIRST TO SEE IF THIS FIXES THE PROBLEM. i WAS TOLD WHEN A BUFFER BOARD GOES OUT IT CAN BE A SHORTED TRANSISTOR ON THE BUFFER BOARD. IF YOU CAREFULLY PLACE YOUR FINGER ON EACH TRANSISTOR THE SHORTED ONE MAY FEEL WARMER THAN THE OTHERS. THIS TECHNIQUE CAN BE HELPFUL IN DETERMINING IF THE BUFFER BOARD HAS A PROBLEM.
@FlakeyFreakout
There are some sections of a TV which have enough voltage to give you a serious shock but I can't say if it would be fatal or not. I have had many shocks in my life and a couple were pretty serious but nothing has killed me so far.
Other than doing some voltage tests all of the repairs I do are with the power off and the TV unplugged!
Thank for your shared knowledge.
Yes some Y-sustain boards may be a bit more difficult to remove due to the
heat sink compound which may have become sticky over time. If you can use a
torch with out damaging the PC board it may be helpful but be careful not to
damage the circuit board.
Dave
Thank you for answering. Yes, I agree, it really does look like a TV screen would look, if it were damaged. I went to your website. I cannot figure out which video would help my particular problem? or maybe give me a quick rundown of repairs, parts (if any), etc.
@VisionsAbove Thanks for telling me the good news Jeff. It's nice to see I have inspired a few folks.
God bless.
@KGBALLER50 The back light consists of very small fluorescent lights, and the inverter board provides the high voltage to power them.
@adam3176
I would not advise you to do otherwise. I was just making the point that not all bad capacitors bulge. Many times they are bad when they look fine.
After lightning strikes a TV it's generally the power supply which gets damaged.
If your lucky it may have only damaged the fuse and varistor which is suppose to short in such an instance to protect your TV from further damage, but with such a high voltage going into your TV from the lightning strike it may have also damaged several other components such as the power IC and or the Power transistor along with a few other parts.
@OhEmGino That's a tough one to answer with out testing the set. Sometimes replacing the TV is the best way to go.
@baldmikey96 Most likely a power supply problem. I would start by checking the obvious things like your fuse, caps and switching transistors. You might have a bad varistor as well.
@Mrcountry62301
I haven't seen that one yet. Congratulations on getting it working.
You can fix it if your willing to spend the time necessary to troubleshoot the audio circuit, but I can't tell you where the problem is by guess work. Sometimes a firmware issue can cause the sound to quit working, so you might look into reloading your firmware.
Based on what you said , I am just going to get rid of it ... thanks for your input Dave.
@proudmomofjj It could be a faulty component on the board which has all your input jacks but I would start with the simple things such as looking for small hairline cracks on the board and make sure the power supply inputs to the Jack pack isn't missing or being shorted to ground. I can's say specifically what the voltages should be with out a schematic but I would think most of the voltages on this board would be around 5 volts.
@plavins1 I don't know for sure. To do an estimate I would need to run some tests
first
When you have a shorted components such as ICs, diodes or transistors your fuses will keep blowing until you replace the bad component. The gentleman who told you a fuse is a fuse is partly correct but there are some applications that call for a slow blow fuse. In your case I would guess you probably have some shorted components.
Dave
@samiyahstuff I can't guess but I would start by checking the power going to your T-con board since your back lite sound like it's working
@mtogono Yes the voltage will remain the same when capacitors are in parallel. In a series circuit the capacitors can handle a higher voltage but their microfarad value goes down.
@Mikeybat07 I can't say for sure but some have found there is an adjustment labeled VS which can be re-adjusted to eliminate the green and red dots. If you adjust this variable resistor just make sure you mark where to put it back in case it doesn't help.
Dave
I would suggest you test all the components in the front end of the power supply. There is a good chance the damage didn't get past the power supply. The key components I would suggest testing are the bridge rectifier and the varistor. The power IC and any switching transistors used on the primary side of the power supply.
@AgentCell It's generally not worth the cost to replace the LCD panel.
@highlandre70 Yes, There are some instances where a bad capacitor on the main board can prevent the TV from turning on, but it's more common on the power supply board.
I agree with you on using quality capacitors. I mention this in my video.
@PlymouthVT
I heard that Dick Smith quit advertising them but
I noticed there is an aftermarket Dick Smith ESR meter advertised for around a hundred bucks in one of my catalogs. Hopefully its just as good. Thanks again.
thank you so much because those tips are helping me a lot
@comedianonstage bad tactile switches may become leaky and cause this. You can unplug the wiring harness that goes to them and see if the problem goes away. If it does you probably need to replace them.
Thanks for the kind words.
I can't guess at what's causing your LCD display to turn red but did you check the simple things such as freezing the edges of the LCD display to see if you noticed any improvements? Does the problem improve when you use different inputs or slightly warm the circuit boards?
How about reseating your ribbon cables? Is the voltage going to your T-con board as high as it should be? (Generally around 12 volts) and does it have any detectable AC ripple on its B+.input.
In all honesty I don't know who makes the best set now days. I was having a lot of problems with Magnavox cathode ray tube TVs, so I'm not sure if they are doing any better with the new LCD TVs. I use to think Panasonic was the best, but the one thing I would suggest is that you consider paying extra for an extended warranty.
That Number you gave me doesn't appear to be a part number. Nothing came up when I Googled it. Here are a couple fast switching diodes that I'm often able to use as substitutes in power supplies.MR856G is a 3 amp 600 PRV. If you need a Ultra fast switching diode you can often use a MUR460G. it can handle 4 amps at 600 prv. If you can get by with only 1 amp at 600 PRV you can often use an RGP10J. I believe this also crosses to an NTE 552. Hope this helps.
@Lockemeister I don't know if MIkes book has the problem. You can call him and ask. He will generally give a person one free tip.
Sometimes it only seems that the high voltage is working because it turns on for a second and then shuts down, and this can be long enough give you the impression the high voltage is working. Did you check out the horizontal output transistor for shorts and the flyback transformer?
@marcsummerhays Perhaps the 12 volt source is missing because the power supply is not in the run mode so you only have your stand by power. Sometimes you don't get your other voltages until the power supply is in the switched on or run mode. On the power supply board it may say switched or SW on the output terminal letting you know it must be on to have a voltage present.
Dave
Best to be careful around high voltage stuff until you understand what your dealing with.
Ham radio is a great hobby that can help you meet lots of great people with a strong background in electronics. I'm also a ham. 73s
@TehUberCyberBeast I thought about doing some videos on CRT TVs, but considering they are being phased out I figured it would be best to stick with the newer sets.
A good presentation, although, with an ESR meter, it is recommended that a new capacitor (electrolytic) is measured, then compared with the measurement of the old, and if there is a vast difference, replace. With switch mode power supplies, it is imperative that 'low ESR' electrolytic capacitors are fitted in the regulation circuit of the 'chopper' transistor; the one nearest the base connection in the circuit. A little more expensive, but avoids catastrophic results with a cold switch-on..
cool, you let go of a lot of industry secrets in one video, I'll definitly be watching the rest soon. btw im currently trying to fix 52" RCA projection Tv with only an digital volt/Ohm Meter. I hate when there's nothing visually wrong.
I would start by checking your inverter transformers for opens or shorts.
@borninlaos1 I'm a samsung tech, those lcds tv have a common fault: replace the caps on the power supply and you need a new mains board as well.
@jawbraeka Because NTSC uses 525 scan lines per frame it would take more than a tuner modification to be able to accept a pal signal which is 625 scan lines per frame. I don't know the answer to your other question.
@hughesbill45 If your talking about an older style TV a green screen can mean one of your color transistors is shorted or your picture tube elements are shorted. You can get the picture tube rejuvenated to see if that helps but often times it's not worth the effort and may even make the problem worse.
@Ibringthetruth1 Good question. I have B & K multimeter with a cap tester but it doesn't check ESR values.
Water may have created a conductive path where the tape carrier package is bonded to the LCD Display. Perhaps it will dry out in a couple days but there is also a possibility you may have damaged the display even though you didn't apply much pressure.
@adam3176 Sometimes there is not easy answer to finding out what's wrong with the new TVs. Personally speaking I generally don't go to far beyond the power supplies and the inverter boars which are two of the most common problems areas. For the more abstract stuff such as you will find on the T-con board and the main boards aside from testing capacitors, voltage regulators, and loose ribbon cables, and bad solder connections I don't knock my self out to figure them all out.
@troytrumble I generally like to start with the capacitors in the power supply.
Very helpful!
Thanks Susan. It's a small world here on youtube. I've enjoyed a few of your videos.
@rhblakeman My cap tester is the cap 88 made by electronic design specialists. The cap wizard may be a better choice. The blue ESR is also suppose to be a good choice.
Dave
@GrantsPassTVRepairs no, i haven't , that is a good tip though, perhaps the HV is up only for a sec.
i suppose i can get a neon light near the HV cable on a plastic dowel to see if I have the HV for more than a second
@Luckypk001 You will find my phone number on my website at TV REPAIR INFO . COM
@GetItAzIs
I'm not sure what caused your symptom but often times inverterboards fail because they are poorly designed.
Dave
If your referring to TV in the background, I believe that set was a Philips.
i am ase certified mecanic and i love people sharing info. thanks .
It could be a variety of things. If you watch all my free videos on this channel I'm sure you might get some good ideas on how to test which board is malfunctioning . I also have a directory at TV REPAIR INFO . COM
@WatsonAndHillhouse I would not know its value without a schematic. Sometimes you can make an educated guess by seeing what part of the circuit it's in but I would need to see the circuit board.
@rocznrowsez I'm wondering if your LCD display is starting to disconnect where the tape carrier package connections attach to the side of the screen. You might try using freeze spray on the screen edges to see if the problem improves. If so there isn't much you can do other than jam a piece of rubber behind the display connections but that's a long shot. You might start by reseating some of the ribbon cables and looking for bad connections.