@@japanesepokemoncardsbuydir9657 Probably Blu since abrasion resistance is most often a function of surface hardness and Blu is the hardest of the three
Question, as far as I am aware - proper curing requires heat treatment, over a certain period of time, to achieve strength. In your experiments it seems you 'only' cured in a cardboard box with UV.
I like the hammer test, because it shows that while the Tenacious resin is not necessarily rigid, it did absorb more energy before giving. That could be useful as an impact buffer, perhaps
Thanks for taking the time to do this. From what I have seen and do myself a mix from 5 to 25% of tenacious to Blu is the norm. I have settled in on 15% tenacious for what I do. It really helps and prints great. Just remember your resin temps . And someone please send this man a printer I am going to look into setting up a go fund me for you. I have never done that before so if someone else wants to start one I am down for putting in some cash. Thanks again
I had few requests for SLA printer review and I accepted them, but somehow they changed their mind, probably bigger youtubers also accepted the request.
This is my experience too. I'm adding 15-20% of tenacious usually. 50-50 is way too much. Characteristics: it becomes a bit less brittle without loosing much of the strength. And yes, it's very important to heat resin to 25+C when printing this!
Zdrosvichya! Igor! thank you for what you do. I'm looking to get a wonderful 3D printer soon, and i appreciate your effort so we may save some time, to make good prints
These are interesting tests, with the performance of the resin mixes it would be great to get a 25/75 and a 75/25 test to map out the changes over varying mixes of these specialty resins, they don't look all linear so be cool to find optimal mixes for varying use cases.
I'll need strong resin for my DIY project (a 3D printed centrifuge for separating waste fluids from heavier /not chemically bound/ pollutants. Like the ones used for waste oil processing, but in my case for separating IPA from resin particles). I'm planning for a ~14cm spinning drum (143mm is the widest I can print on my Mars 3 anyway, and I'm still not certain on how thick the walls need to be). I think 5~6mm walls should be ok, so the centrifuge calcs show that at 65mm radius & 11740 RPM the effective force would be ~10,000g I'm planning to use my Dremel (4300 @175W & max 35,000 RPM), I know when having to spin things much heavier than a drill/saw bit it'll lose RPM, but it seems that even with a third of its RPM it should still generate 10,000g at the small radius of 65mm (radius increases g-force linearly, while RPM increases it exponentially - by the square!). So it seems to me that the limiting factor would be the resin's tensile strength. Besides its own weight the drum would have to spin no more than 500~600gr (more likely up to 400gr), but at 10,000g it will be challenged (it's very likely I'll have to settle for much lower RPM. @5000RPM which is the dremel's lowest & 65mm radius it'll still generate 1,800g, which I'm sure will still be enough for separating fluid from pollutants). I'll most likely have to print several samples of different thickness and test them to what RPM they break (and then lower RPM with a safety factor for the real use). But one thing is sure, I'll need the strongest resin available (w/o selling my kidneys :)). So any recommendations incl. post-curing process would be greatly appreaciated!
thank you for the review quick question: I am making my own articulated figure (like iron man those). i was using aqua grey 4k and the joints were keep breaking. do you recommend me using the mix one or the abs-like one for my project? thank you!1
love your tests, would like to see the creep test you've been doing recently on siraya blu and it's mix too! I've printed a couple of small functional parts (soap holder etc.) out of blu and after 1/2 weeks they're already droopy, considering moving away from blu due to the excessive creep
@@MyTechFun I'm from New Zealand, I'll print some of the C tests in blu next time and I'll run something similar to your tests, I'll send you my results when it's done and maybe you could test it if it's interesting!
@@quansasun NewZealand? Yes, it's better if you do the test yourself. C-test specimen you can download from here: www.mytechfun.com/video/143 (bottom of the page)
@@MyTechFun I ran the tests, measured from top of C clamp to bottom (not separation between the two ledge like yours) when it was taken off and back of c clasp flat against the caliper. all measurements in MM, 2 tests: Day 0: 50, 50 Day 1: 56, 55 Day 2: 61.3, 62 Day 3: 68, 66 Day 4: 78, 68 1 day no load: 78, 60 3 day no load: 60, 55 C clasps were 4.5mm thick as printed on bed (with a little elephant foot), i cured one for 20 minutes other for 30 mins, the 30 mins one had less creep Looks like majority of the extension is elastic however recovery takes very long time (24h+), i know it wasn't scientific only doing one of each sample however it seems like I'm under-curing my prints
Just keep in mind to get the most strength from these resins (or any resin for that matter) you must cure under high power LED's for an hour while at 60c. I just got back from the gun range and have confirmed that is the case.
What did you use to keep them at that ambient temperature? Also, did you notice any deformation in the dimensions after keeping them under heat for that long?
For now I don't plane new video in this topic. Maybe only testing more different ratios like 20-80. But not on this Summer. (And maybe you could send me printed test specimens instead resin)
How come you don't own a 3d resin printer when you've done so many videos on resins? Are they very expensive where you live? All the precision instruments and tools you have must have cost way more than a resin printer.
If you look at it from the perspective that it weakens the more expensive Blu resin, you're right. But, if you look at it from the other way around, mixing strengthens less expensive, more brittle resins. I print miniatures for people and always add about 20 to 25% Blu to strengthen the prints. It works really well for that application.
Thanks for sharing. Great info for users who are looking to mix themselves
Which type of the 3 (or other resin) would be the most abrasion resistant, for example for action figure joints ?
@@japanesepokemoncardsbuydir9657 Probably Blu since abrasion resistance is most often a function of surface hardness and Blu is the hardest of the three
Sponsor him !!!
Question, as far as I am aware - proper curing requires heat treatment, over a certain period of time, to achieve strength.
In your experiments it seems you 'only' cured in a cardboard box with UV.
@@veronicaortiz2058 , yes, I'm interested to see same tests of the other resins, like Build for example
I like the hammer test, because it shows that while the Tenacious resin is not necessarily rigid, it did absorb more energy before giving. That could be useful as an impact buffer, perhaps
It's what we've all been waiting for, lads!
You are now the project farms yt channel of 3d printing. Great job and keep up the good work.
I appreciate you referencing accepted standards. Thank-you.
Thanks for taking the time to do this.
From what I have seen and do myself a mix from 5 to 25% of tenacious to Blu is the norm.
I have settled in on 15% tenacious for what I do.
It really helps and prints great. Just remember your resin temps . And someone please send this man a printer
I am going to look into setting up a go fund me for you. I have never done that before so if someone else wants to start one I am down for putting in some cash.
Thanks again
I had few requests for SLA printer review and I accepted them, but somehow they changed their mind, probably bigger youtubers also accepted the request.
Interesting. What kind of characteristics does that ratio produce?
This is my experience too. I'm adding 15-20% of tenacious usually. 50-50 is way too much.
Characteristics: it becomes a bit less brittle without loosing much of the strength.
And yes, it's very important to heat resin to 25+C when printing this!
Wow, excellent information, and such dedication in conducting these experiments! Thank you, sir!!
this is such a fascinating test and shows what's best for an individual's uses and circumstances. Thanks!
Great information, excellent comparison standards, thankyou
Impressive testing! Thank you and greetings from SoCal 🙈
This is what I've been looking for!
Awesome video. Exactly what I was looking for.
Zdrosvichya! Igor! thank you for what you do. I'm looking to get a wonderful 3D printer soon, and i appreciate your effort so we may save some time, to make good prints
Great tensile model. Great structure
These are interesting tests, with the performance of the resin mixes it would be great to get a 25/75 and a 75/25 test to map out the changes over varying mixes of these specialty resins, they don't look all linear so be cool to find optimal mixes for varying use cases.
mixing blu to abs like or similar cheaper resin prob makes sense to keep the cost down and add some strength to the parts
Thanks Igor...really nice work.
Thanks for the video, very insightful.
Which type would be the most abrasion resistant, for example for action figure joints ?
Did you use same setup when testing eSUN resins? I seems that eSUN resins (even standard) are much stronger than Blu.
Yes, same setup, same printer, same test specimen dimensions. At the end of year I will summary all my results..
I'll need strong resin for my DIY project (a 3D printed centrifuge for separating waste fluids from heavier /not chemically bound/ pollutants. Like the ones used for waste oil processing, but in my case for separating IPA from resin particles).
I'm planning for a ~14cm spinning drum (143mm is the widest I can print on my Mars 3 anyway, and I'm still not certain on how thick the walls need to be).
I think 5~6mm walls should be ok, so the centrifuge calcs show that at 65mm radius & 11740 RPM the effective force would be ~10,000g
I'm planning to use my Dremel (4300 @175W & max 35,000 RPM), I know when having to spin things much heavier than a drill/saw bit it'll lose RPM, but it seems that even with a third of its RPM it should still generate 10,000g at the small radius of 65mm (radius increases g-force linearly, while RPM increases it exponentially - by the square!).
So it seems to me that the limiting factor would be the resin's tensile strength.
Besides its own weight the drum would have to spin no more than 500~600gr (more likely up to 400gr), but at 10,000g it will be challenged (it's very likely I'll have to settle for much lower RPM. @5000RPM which is the dremel's lowest & 65mm radius it'll still generate 1,800g, which I'm sure will still be enough for separating fluid from pollutants).
I'll most likely have to print several samples of different thickness and test them to what RPM they break (and then lower RPM with a safety factor for the real use).
But one thing is sure, I'll need the strongest resin available (w/o selling my kidneys :)).
So any recommendations incl. post-curing process would be greatly appreaciated!
Thanks so much for this!!!
Thanks for the test. Question, which is better in terms of toughness. Esun hard vs Siraya Blu?
according to my results, eSun
I wonder if you could use this mix to make flexture features in 3d prints
thank you for your work!!
thank you for the review
quick question: I am making my own articulated figure (like iron man those). i was using aqua grey 4k and the joints were keep breaking. do you recommend me using the mix one or the abs-like one for my project? thank you!1
Probably 80-20% mix (Blu-Tenacious) would be better, but I didn't tested that combination.
@@MyTechFun thank you so much!!
And what are the exposure settings for the mix would you recommend? Thanks again man 🙇🏻♂️
Keep up the great work👍👍👍
love your tests, would like to see the creep test you've been doing recently on siraya blu and it's mix too!
I've printed a couple of small functional parts (soap holder etc.) out of blu and after 1/2 weeks they're already droopy, considering moving away from blu due to the excessive creep
Tony, where are you located? You could print those C test specimens and send them to me (I am from Hungary, EU)
@@MyTechFun I'm from New Zealand, I'll print some of the C tests in blu next time and I'll run something similar to your tests, I'll send you my results when it's done and maybe you could test it if it's interesting!
@@quansasun NewZealand? Yes, it's better if you do the test yourself. C-test specimen you can download from here: www.mytechfun.com/video/143 (bottom of the page)
@@MyTechFun I ran the tests, measured from top of C clamp to bottom (not separation between the two ledge like yours) when it was taken off and back of c clasp flat against the caliper. all measurements in MM, 2 tests:
Day 0: 50, 50
Day 1: 56, 55
Day 2: 61.3, 62
Day 3: 68, 66
Day 4: 78, 68
1 day no load: 78, 60
3 day no load: 60, 55
C clasps were 4.5mm thick as printed on bed (with a little elephant foot), i cured one for 20 minutes other for 30 mins, the 30 mins one had less creep
Looks like majority of the extension is elastic however recovery takes very long time (24h+), i know it wasn't scientific only doing one of each sample however it seems like I'm under-curing my prints
@@quansasun Useful infos, thank you Tony!
Does anyone have the print settings for either of these mixtures for a elegoo mars?
eSun have hard tough resin, wish you could compare 2 different brand of toughness.
Very nice thank you!
Great content as always.
Thank you.
You have some awesome tools too haha
you make great content! thank you!
really smart thanks
what is a good uv power % for translucent resin?
Where did you get that scale thingy?
500kg hanging scale? Local store.
@@MyTechFun thanks I found them already. They are called crane scales. Cheap on Amazon
Nice thanks
how about 70/30 mix
future milion sub channel
With this subscribing speed probably in 80 years
Just keep in mind to get the most strength from these resins (or any resin for that matter) you must cure under high power LED's for an hour while at 60c.
I just got back from the gun range and have confirmed that is the case.
What did you use to keep them at that ambient temperature? Also, did you notice any deformation in the dimensions after keeping them under heat for that long?
Can I send you free resin samples?
Mainly mixing composites with blue and tenacious.
For now I don't plane new video in this topic. Maybe only testing more different ratios like 20-80. But not on this Summer. (And maybe you could send me printed test specimens instead resin)
Is anyone else getting Walter White vibes with those baggies of blue substances?
How come you don't own a 3d resin printer when you've done so many videos on resins? Are they very expensive where you live? All the precision instruments and tools you have must have cost way more than a resin printer.
No, it's not the price. I have to find good ventilated place for it. It's something, you don't want to do in your living room or flat.
That Tenacious appears to be garbage!
No, it's not. You can use it for mixing to get less brittle material. Or if you need some flexible object (like TPU for filament printers)
I think the mixing has no benefit.
If you look at it from the perspective that it weakens the more expensive Blu resin, you're right. But, if you look at it from the other way around, mixing strengthens less expensive, more brittle resins. I print miniatures for people and always add about 20 to 25% Blu to strengthen the prints. It works really well for that application.