I appreciate your video because I'm having problems with a 12 HD Milwaukee battery and they don't honor their warranties... I'll definitely be using your troubleshooting techniques... I appreciate your help. The only negative thing I would say is that loud music is irritating and unnecessary... it's totally okay to just have the natural sounds, or no sound. Thank you again
They most certainly do honor their warranty. I've sent in at least half a dozen batteries that were replaced at no cost. It's not hard. If the battery has been left out in the rain and shorted out, or misused in any way, that's not a warranty issue.
I have a M18 XC 5.0 battery I am troubleshooting. It's lightly used, maybe 4 years old. Working fine one day, next day 1 bar flashed like it was dead. I didn't leave it dead. Put it on the charger and charger goes green. Battery thinks it's dead, charger think's it's full. I connected this battery to a good battery (+ to +, - to -) to "reset" the battery. After doing this a couple times the bad battery showed 3 bars charge. Great? Ran a tool for less than a minute then stopped. Charger still goes green instantly. I'll open it up and check what you did here. Thanks for the video! Any thoughts what my issue is?
I have a 5.0 aH Milwaukee M18 battery that when placed on the charger, the GREEN light illuminates. However, when I press the button the 1st bar flashes 7 times VERY FAST! I just checked it with my voltmeter and received a reading of 4.07 when I tested it as instructed in this video with a voltage reading of 16.30. The only thing I noticed was that one of the contacts on the right side if looking straight down on it, appears tarnished (darker in color). I used a copper brush on it and returned it to the charger. Thoughts? THANKS!!!!!
Is there a way to make/hack the M18 so can swap out the cells by simply inserting new batteries (cells) only by hand... Like changing batteries in a tv remote?? I want to get the Milwaukee Top-off tool but only if I can swap out the batteries, and quickly and easily (no spotwelding or anything like that) so have endless power. I have bunch of 18650 cells around so that would be awesome. There has to be a way! .. in other words, way to hack it so can insert new cells simply like swapping batteries in a tv remote.
What is the 3rd most common issue you mentioned? Is it the thermistor? How do you know when the thermistor is bad? Mine is reading 43Kohm at room temps, and it does react to temperature changes, but i dont know what value its supposed to be.
I would vote for the nickel strips breaking at the PCB board. I've had a few that way. It's hard to catch until you lift or cut strips from the batteries....its a PITA. The strip right up by the board that seems to be the culprit is pure nickel .3mm thick and 5mm wide. Makes zig zag turns. My Spot couldn't touch it, probably...I just get 24 gauge solid bare wire, and use the nickel as a template. I solder the wire to the nickel. The nickel can carry 6.9a, so the 24 gauge carries 3.5a. I use a 2nd wire and run them parallel. It looks good and so much easier and looks good...
Why can you measure at output pins?I thought needs to be connected to drill with sense wire causing mosfet to then switch voltage to output pins. That's what my v18 drill battery does.
only reason I'm watching this. I just tossed a brand new battery pack after I smashed it with a sledgehammer. this is the second time in a row. take a brand new battery fully charged and it cuts out every 30 seconds of use. Nobody and I mean NOBODY fixes or honors the warranty for M18 tools and batteries. Milwaukee was awesome a few years back. but within the last couple years, it seems like the quality and workmanship has greatly diminished. the last time I called Milwaukee tool company to ask about returning or exchanging it under warranty. The person I spoke to only gave me a little runaround story and I said "they're a big expensive waste of my time and money".
It's not that hard to do it yourself and you'll know it was done correctly. BTW, if you decide to toss another one, let me know. And I'll have it shipped to me..lol..good luck
I have the compressor and 9ah batteries only work intermittently or not at all but they work in my other tools everytime? And if i run a 9ah batt on my grinder then put it on the compressor it will work.. then the same battery after a few minutes stops working on the compressor again. My 12ah batt works everytime in all my tools??
I have a M18 that flashes single red light, when placed in the charger the led goes green immediately, all cells read 4.1v. Why will it not show full when checking charge level
I have a m18 battery. When i connect it to the charger it blinks green then stops on green. I put it to my impact and works for a bit then stops and you press the battery button and doesnt show any bars lit.
I have a question, is this the reason why the battery fuel gauge indicator, is not completely full? if so by doing this, after it's charged will indicate full? I'm having many issues with not just the m18 but they say they are full on the charger but the led indicator doesn't show full on the battery and you can tell the performance is usually in power and run time '
Question for you? What if you have a twelve volt Milwaukee batter that does ether same thing in the charger that your 20 volt batter was doing in the charger. I bought a tool that uses the 12 volt batter. I also bought four spare batters for it. I put them in the charger and they would blink red and green. Could you do a video showing that hack.
Hi have a M 18 battery and following your steps to test the battery the fist cell is reading .236 all the others are reading 3.4 it wont work when trying to charge it
Thanks for the useful video! I have a M18 12.0 pack that shows 19.7 volts at the terminals and charger indicates fully charged (green light) but the battery will not operate any tool??
@@EVCustoms thanks for the reply. I just cleaned the terminals, rechecked the voltage (19.14 vdc) the fuel gauge is flashing ( first led only) and both chargers show green (fully charged). Your thoughts?
@@EVCustoms okay So I will need a DC power supply and the two different balancing circuit boards I have seen you use ? Do you list sources for these items?
@@robertcouchman5397 Yes... you can do that also manually with variable power supply or any discharge load, for example coil lamp... all batteries must have same voltages...
Sorry sir, I want to ask, I am an Indonesian service mechanic, I have a Milwauke battery when the charger flashes red green red green indicator flashes, the battery is damaged or the charger module is damaged, thank you
@@EVCustoms I removed the battery and checked all the batteries have no voltage, but when the charger module is turned on without the battery the indicator light is still red and green, is the charger module damaged too?
@@EVCustoms several forums say if you change any of the cells without keeping a voltage on the BCM it will brick it. But I noticed your pack in this video had a weak spot weld on the Negative side....but you didn’t loose the board. So is this a false statement that you have seen ?
Yes you can change any battery or all batteries if you want without any problem... maybe the error led will flashing after that, then you must put the battery on charger to initialize the bms, after that everything will be ok.
"Слабое звено" в этих акках - платы. У меня сейчас две платы - одна версии 02, другая версии 05. В пятой сразу в двух дальних от разъёма схемах контроля напряжения на аккумуляторах, входное сопротивление порядка 6 ... 12 кОм, а в версии 02, только в дальней. Соответственно в ноль были "посажены" 4 и 2 аккумулятора. Восстановить их не удалось. В исправных схемах контроля напряжения и аккумуляторы исправны, и входное сопротивление "бесконечное". Явно в схеме используются детали без надлежащего запаса по напряжению...
Следующий раз когда я буду преживать о своём произношении английского я буду смотреть твои видео и радоваться что я не один такой 😁🤗 Когда паяешь эти пластины используй ортофосфорную кислоту. Помажь ей место пайки
@@EVCustoms yes and if i take them out and let it sits for 15 minutes, they went back to flashing and i just ordered bunch of knock off board replacement and swap them. now they work awesome. i swap two of them.
5:01 Pro tip, before soldering: clean the solder joint first (i.e. scratch pad and isopropyl alcohol), and then apply solder flux to the joint
I appreciate your video because I'm having problems with a 12 HD Milwaukee battery and they don't honor their warranties... I'll definitely be using your troubleshooting techniques... I appreciate your help. The only negative thing I would say is that loud music is irritating and unnecessary... it's totally okay to just have the natural sounds, or no sound. Thank you again
They most certainly do honor their warranty. I've sent in at least half a dozen batteries that were replaced at no cost. It's not hard. If the battery has been left out in the rain and shorted out, or misused in any way, that's not a warranty issue.
When soldering, apply heat to the metal and apply solder to the metal, not the tip, also keep it on till it flows, don't keep lifting the tip.
I have a M18 XC 5.0 battery I am troubleshooting. It's lightly used, maybe 4 years old. Working fine one day, next day 1 bar flashed like it was dead. I didn't leave it dead. Put it on the charger and charger goes green. Battery thinks it's dead, charger think's it's full. I connected this battery to a good battery (+ to +, - to -) to "reset" the battery. After doing this a couple times the bad battery showed 3 bars charge. Great? Ran a tool for less than a minute then stopped. Charger still goes green instantly. I'll open it up and check what you did here. Thanks for the video! Any thoughts what my issue is?
What were the results?
I have a 5.0 aH Milwaukee M18 battery that when placed on the charger, the GREEN light illuminates. However, when I press the button the 1st bar flashes 7 times VERY FAST! I just checked it with my voltmeter and received a reading of 4.07 when I tested it as instructed in this video with a voltage reading of 16.30. The only thing I noticed was that one of the contacts on the right side if looking straight down on it, appears tarnished (darker in color). I used a copper brush on it and returned it to the charger. Thoughts? THANKS!!!!!
The solder will flow better if you sand paper the strip first..
Or if flux was used
Is there a way to make/hack the M18 so can swap out the cells by simply inserting new batteries (cells) only by hand... Like changing batteries in a tv remote?? I want to get the Milwaukee Top-off tool but only if I can swap out the batteries, and quickly and easily (no spotwelding or anything like that) so have endless power. I have bunch of 18650 cells around so that would be awesome. There has to be a way! .. in other words, way to hack it so can insert new cells simply like swapping batteries in a tv remote.
That's a great idea actully.
What is the 3rd most common issue you mentioned? Is it the thermistor? How do you know when the thermistor is bad? Mine is reading 43Kohm at room temps, and it does react to temperature changes, but i dont know what value its supposed to be.
Hi .. about thermostat value i will chek them, most common problem is the power strip tabs ..
I would vote for the nickel strips breaking at the PCB board. I've had a few that way. It's hard to catch until you lift or cut strips from the batteries....its a PITA. The strip right up by the board that seems to be the culprit is pure nickel .3mm thick and 5mm wide. Makes zig zag turns. My Spot couldn't touch it, probably...I just get 24 gauge solid bare wire, and use the nickel as a template. I solder the wire to the nickel. The nickel can carry 6.9a, so the 24 gauge carries 3.5a. I use a 2nd wire and run them parallel. It looks good and so much easier and looks good...
That "background" music is so irrelevant and irritating.
Thank you for this video. Very helpful
Thank you mate!
Do you could share some info or link about your DC capacity instrument? Thanks in advance 👍
So if the outside contacts are the main output input ....
What are the middle contacts for.
Why can you measure at output pins?I thought needs to be connected to drill with sense wire causing mosfet to then switch voltage to output pins. That's what my v18 drill battery does.
Does it use t8 or t10 safety screws ?
only reason I'm watching this. I just tossed a brand new battery pack after I smashed it with a sledgehammer. this is the second time in a row. take a brand new battery fully charged and it cuts out every 30 seconds of use. Nobody and I mean NOBODY fixes or honors the warranty for M18 tools and batteries. Milwaukee was awesome a few years back. but within the last couple years, it seems like the quality and workmanship has greatly diminished. the last time I called Milwaukee tool company to ask about returning or exchanging it under warranty. The person I spoke to only gave me a little runaround story and I said "they're a big expensive waste of my time and money".
Please recycle ♻️ your battery responsibly. Lithium is a toxic metal.
It's not that hard to do it yourself and you'll know it was done correctly. BTW, if you decide to toss another one, let me know. And I'll have it shipped to me..lol..good luck
They will cut out if they overheat. For instance, when using in the Milwaukee Weed-eater in the Alabama summer it overheats frequently
Nice video, where did You buy that dummy load tester?
I have the compressor and 9ah batteries only work intermittently or not at all but they work in my other tools everytime? And if i run a 9ah batt on my grinder then put it on the compressor it will work.. then the same battery after a few minutes stops working on the compressor again. My 12ah batt works everytime in all my tools??
Would be nice if you mention what type and # of the bit to open it..
It's a Torx 10 security tip, known as T10 security. Almost everybody carries them, Home Depot, Lowes, ACE hardware, Harbor Freight..
I have a M18 that flashes single red light, when placed in the charger the led goes green immediately, all cells read 4.1v. Why will it not show full when checking charge level
I already change new bms, but my battery can't show level of battery and can't use. Please reply me back how can I do?(my battery at p+,p- have 21 v)
I have a m18 battery. When i connect it to the charger it blinks green then stops on green. I put it to my impact and works for a bit then stops and you press the battery button and doesnt show any bars lit.
I have a question, is this the reason why the battery fuel gauge indicator, is not completely full? if so by doing this, after it's charged will indicate full? I'm having many issues with not just the m18 but they say they are full on the charger but the led indicator doesn't show full on the battery and you can tell the performance is usually in power and run time
'
This means that your batteries are unbalanced, that's why... after balancing it will show you full charge.
@@EVCustoms ok any good resources to get me started in in an area that no one does this kind of stuff
Great videos on the m-18 battery testing. Also thanks so much for doing the CC's . It really helps.
All the cells were fine , what are you testing for
Question for you? What if you have a twelve volt Milwaukee batter that does ether same thing in the charger that your 20 volt batter was doing in the charger. I bought a tool that uses the 12 volt batter. I also bought four spare batters for it. I put them in the charger and they would blink red and green. Could you do a video showing that hack.
Jump start it
How the batteries connect to each bank?
Hi have a M 18 battery and following your steps to test the battery the fist cell is reading .236 all the others are reading 3.4 it wont work when trying to charge it
What are the three terminal taps in the center of the battery for ?
Balancing
Question 1. Why 300hz on the PWM?
Question 2. Do cells not fail in your opinion? you only discuss balancing techniques.
Thank you!
hi do you repair v28 as i have 7 that have stood for years and now flash red green on charger im in great britain thank you
Two pounds of solder should do it !!
Informative video despite the nauseating music.
The cells is 18650 or 21700?
18650
Thanks for the useful video! I have a M18 12.0 pack that shows 19.7 volts at the terminals and charger indicates fully charged (green light) but the battery will not operate any tool??
Thanks.... check or clean your power terminals.. and at full charge battery must have 21V on terminals..
@@EVCustoms thanks for the reply. I just cleaned the terminals, rechecked the voltage (19.14 vdc) the fuel gauge is flashing ( first led only) and both chargers show green (fully charged). Your thoughts?
Ah ok... so you need balance the cells... that's why you have only 19V on terminals... some batteries have different voltages..
@@EVCustoms okay
So I will need a DC power supply and the two different balancing circuit boards I have seen you use ? Do you list sources for these items?
@@robertcouchman5397 Yes... you can do that also manually with variable power supply or any discharge load, for example coil lamp... all batteries must have same voltages...
How much are your repair cost
about 25-30euros
Sorry sir, I want to ask, I am an Indonesian service mechanic, I have a Milwauke battery when the charger flashes red green red green indicator flashes, the battery is damaged or the charger module is damaged, thank you
There issue on your battery... check battery tabs, balance and thermostat.
@@EVCustoms I removed the battery and checked all the batteries have no voltage, but when the charger module is turned on without the battery the indicator light is still red and green, is the charger module damaged too?
Hello! You have a very nice channel. What equipment do I need to repair batterys?
Hi... most common equipment is multimeter and balancer..
Thank you Sir for the tutorial video. It solve the problem.
Great vid! Where did you buy your torx bits?
Or I should say what brand/company makes the torx bits you use?
@@karlpittman9925 Hello friend, this torx bits came with Dahua cameras, and they are angle bits, i cutted them..
@@karlpittman9925 if you live in the US, you can get Torx security bits anywhere. ACE hardware, Home Depot,, Lowes, Harbor Freight
Quick! Someone get this man a big bevel tip!
lololol
So I've been looking around on some videos show keeping a voltage source on the BMS during disassembly of all cells. Is this true ?
Hi.. and why to do that? and why are they doing that?
@@EVCustoms several forums say if you change any of the cells without keeping a voltage on the BCM it will brick it. But I noticed your pack in this video had a weak spot weld on the Negative side....but you didn’t loose the board. So is this a false statement that you have seen ?
I get 1 bar flashing around 8 Times. Waiting on a balancing module. Im Only 8/100 volt off of being equal?
Yes you can change any battery or all batteries if you want without any problem... maybe the error led will flashing after that, then you must put the battery on charger to initialize the bms, after that everything will be ok.
@@CiderMillBarbecue I've that same story on forums also. Ivehad more Milwaukees apart than any other and never had an issue
It takes around 2 minutes for the charger to start flashing to see if it will charge or not.
"Слабое звено" в этих акках - платы. У меня сейчас две платы - одна версии 02, другая версии 05. В пятой сразу в двух дальних от разъёма схемах контроля напряжения на аккумуляторах, входное сопротивление порядка 6 ... 12 кОм, а в версии 02, только в дальней. Соответственно в ноль были "посажены" 4 и 2 аккумулятора. Восстановить их не удалось. В исправных схемах контроля напряжения и аккумуляторы исправны, и входное сопротивление "бесконечное". Явно в схеме используются детали без надлежащего запаса по напряжению...
Loosing the retro disco music will give 4 bars
Είσαι καλλιτέχνης!!👏👏
Πολύ ωραίο βιντεάκι!!!
Следующий раз когда я буду преживать о своём произношении английского я буду смотреть твои видео и радоваться что я не один такой 😁🤗
Когда паяешь эти пластины используй ортофосфорную кислоту. Помажь ей место пайки
Awesome video
Aluminum ducting tape works if space is an issue.
Wait the adhesive is conductive?
Soldering school will help a lot.
Very thick nickel plate for drain 20 amp current.
Good video, I like it. Thank you
Vorrei aggiustare due batterie da Milly Walker
My main problem with 4 of my Milwaukee batteries is they wont charge any more
They make red led error codes?
@@EVCustoms so what does it mean when the M18 high output CP 3.0 amp hour battery flashes when you press the fuel gauge eight times
Great video!
Thank you!
thanks
i have fixed 4 batteries same issue spot welder looks fine but loose
couple of them no go
Nice to hear that... ;)
@@EVCustoms i do have a few that works but showing flashing one bar left
i think board went bad
all cells are balanced and good
You must put them on original charger to initialize the BMS board of battery...
@@EVCustoms yes and if i take them out and let it sits for 15 minutes, they went back to flashing
and i just ordered bunch of knock off board replacement and swap them.
now they work awesome.
i swap two of them.
Hmm... i never had this issue.. if i find in the future battery with similar problem i will search for solution..
Паяльный кислота мэйк ё джоб э мост изи зэн ю дюинг...
Ёр Инглиш из э гуд! 😅
Shit can the music, it's annoying.
Need caption dudes speaking jibberish
great video, annoying music
Easier to drain all cells to zero, Then charge fresh via jumping from another M18 battery.
Are you sure...? until zero volts??
You don't discharge lithium batteries to zero like the old nicad packs otherwise you might destroy them. Best to discharge no more than 20%
NO LOWER than 3.2v per cell!
@@h8GW the lo cut off is 2.5 volts. No reason not to take them to 2.7 or close
Talented!
Thank you mate!