Motorcycle Chain Vs. Belt Vs. Shaft-Which Drivetrain Is Best? | MC Garage
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- Chain, belt, drive shaft. Each setup has it’s own pros and cons, but which system is best? In this video from the MC Garage we’ll discuss the three forms of final drive so you can decide for yourself.
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Drivetrains don’t get a lot of credit. The engine-which makes the power that hurtles you down the road and produces that sound and feel that bring a smile to your face-gets all the glory. But if that torque weren’t transmitted from the engine’s output shaft to the rear wheel you wouldn’t be going anywhere. And for that reason, this MC Garage is dedicated to the final drive in its three forms: chain, belt, and shaft.
Are Motorcycle Belt Final Drives The Best?
Chains are far and away the most common form of final drive today, and while the idea of a roller chain can be traced back to the sketchbooks of one Leonardo da Vinci, the first motorcycles weren’t chain-driven but belt-driven.
Belts were originally cut from the most durable material available: cowhide. Leather belts tended to slip, wear, glaze, and break, so they were quickly phased out in the first part of the 20th century in favor of chains and drive shafts. Look around any dealership though and you’ll see that belts are back. Belt materials and manufacturing technology made big enough strides that by the 1980s belts were tough enough to be used on bikes again. Belts are mostly used on cruisers, but BMW and electric motorcycle manufacturer Zero have employed belts on sportbikes because they offer some distinct advantages over the ubiquitous chain drive. For starters, belts don’t need lubrication so they’re cleaner. Belts are also quieter, offer a long service life, and-besides the occasional visual inspection-require very little maintenance.
If belts are so great, why don’t we see them on other types of bikes? Packaging and difficulty of replacement are the biggest drawbacks. Today’s synchronous (toothed) belts are as strong as chains and not much wider, but they can’t wrap as tightly so they need a larger countershaft pulley (and correspondingly large rear pulley to attain the proper gear ratio) than a chain setup. And when it comes to replacing a drive belt, the process usually entails removing the swingarm.
So That Means Shaft Driven Bikes Are The Best?
Driveshafts must be the best form of final drive, right? Those who have them on their bikes certainly think so, and shafts have been the final drive of choice for BMW since 1923. “The historical use of shaft drive is primarily for longevity and minimal maintenance requirements,” Communications Manager at BMW of North America Roy Oliemuller says. Driveshafts are nearly maintenance-free, impervious to the outside environment, and-barring any sort of freak failure-will last the life of the bike. All strong benefits, but shafts are also costly to build, heavy, and sap more power than other final-drive systems. And unless the manufacturer wants to build and fit two sets of expensive, power-robbing bevel gears, drive shafts are best reserved for engines with longitudinal crankshafts. Shaft-jack under load used to be an issue as well, but clever linkage arrangements have almost eliminated it.
Ok, What Makes Chains The Best?
That brings us to the roller chain, the most prevalent form of the final drive. As with most things that are mass-produced, the cost is a huge factor, and chains and sprockets are cheap to make. They’re also compact, fairly durable, easy to replace, offer easy gearing changes, and are the most efficient means of power transmission. Yes, chains require regular cleaning and lubrication, tend to make a mess of things, and wear out much faster than belts or shafts, but every form of final drive is a compromise.
Chains are in essence just a series of plain bearings linked together via inner and outer plates. Unsealed chains were the norm for decades, but they were difficult to keep lubricated so wore quickly and necessitated regular adjustment and replacement. Then someone came up with the clever idea of permanently lubricating the parts of the chain that need it most-the pins and the bushings that rotate on them-and the sealed chain was born. In sealed chains grease is drawn into the bushing by means of vacuum when the chain is assembled, and then rubber O-rings squeezed between the inner and outer link plates seal in the grease and seal out dirt and water. Sealed chains offer considerably longer service life compared to their unsealed counterparts.
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Belts:
*Need high tension to transmit forces, cannot deal with a lot of swing-arm motion because of the fact that the swing-arm pivot point isn't the center of the belt drive sheave.
*Higher risk for stones/debris causing serious damage and danger to the rider.
*More difficult to replace away from a service shop
*Most quiet system
*Suitable for relatively clean environments, with little suspension travel (i.e. cruisers)
*Somewhat difficult and expensive to change gearing
*Least amount of power delay from crankshaft to tire (transmission gear clearances alone)
Shafts:
*Cause jacking action when heavy throttle is applied, except for a few complex rear suspension systems on the market (i.e. Kawasaki Concours 14)
*Waste the most energy of the 3 given final drive systems to heat, friction, and general mechanical losses
*Weigh the most (inhibit free movement of suspension for best traction, increase inertia to overcome with engine energy)
*Least maintenance intensive
*Least prone to environment-related damage
*Least likely to need replacement over the life of the bike
*Suitable for all environments; sealed drive mechanism
*Extremely difficult and prohibitively expensive to change gearing
*Small power delay from crankshaft to tire (transmission gear clearances, wheel gear clearances)
Chains:
*Affected the least amount by swing arm action; transmit energy to a wheel which motion can vary a lot, without the need of specific tension (belt drives)
*Least expensive to replace components
*Easiest to service away from a service shop
*Least loss in energy transmission
*Very little affect on suspension action, not inhibiting traction
*Easy and inexpensive gearing changes
*Inexpensive weight reduction possible
*Most maintenance intensive
*Suitable for all environments, with proper maintenance, extremely durable even submersed in gravel and mud
*Most power delay from crankshaft to tire (transmission gear clearances, chain tension and wear condition)
Take your pick. I'll take the maintenance of chains for all the other pro's they provide.
it's all about the fact that you can walk into any bike shop and find a chain that can be tweaked to work with your bike, and said chain can be changed without removing the rear wheel.
Lifted_Above I agree and if you keep the chain clean (I do mine every 300miles) it's a quick and simple task that only takes me about 10mins.
Well done.
Definitely what I was looking for with this video. Thanks
Chains.
There are a lot of people who specifically buy a motorcyle with drive shaft. No hassle with maintenance and as reliable as it gets.
My next bike will not be chain drive. I have had enough of tension adjusting and sprocket replacing.
So long as it isn't a BMW shaft drive. Try to avoid those..
How's Moto Guzzi?
I heard they are quite reliable.
EJ Wu
Nice, for some reason the V7 is stuck in my head, not something I *have* to get, but I don't know, strange feeling about it, and the drive shaft is helping it! Might end up with one someday.
I have two bikes. One is a a chain drive. The other is a drive shaft. I prefer the drive shaft.
Maybe it's time for a PROS and CONS of different cylinder configurations?
Vtwin is king!!
actually, parallel twins are more compact and cool better, but no one is going to make air cooled engines any more.
tell that to enfield :D i think they missed that memo :)
Three cylinders is best compromise.
I currently own an MV Agusta Brutale 800. High horsepower (120), great mid range.
Often forget to shift up; happy at 70 mph in 3rd gear, just like 6th gear.
sorry, 120hp is high?
maybe you ought to go back to talking about what's the "best compromise" LOL
I have an 83 shaft drive Yamaha I've never done anything to it still works.
I find cleaning and lubing the chain to be a fairly easy and quick thing to do. Takes my mind off things for a good 10 to 20 minutes.
My first bike was a chain drive, ever since I started ridding shaft drive motorcycles I am never going back to a chain drive.
Yeah same, i bought a 650 honda deauville that has a shaft drive - saved loads not buying new chains and chain lube lol
One of the reasons I love the R nine T
Is shaft drive reliable that much? I wanna buy a motoguzzi with shaft drive but the problem is there is no one around my area who knows about shaft drive maintainence
I'm not racing in the autobahn. My BMW 1200 shaft drive havent had to do anything to it since 2009. Love it.
Having had bikes with all three kinds , I can say the belt was a favorite . But over the long haul on road touring the shafts were the most trouble free . Now that I am into adventure riding , chains are about the only option . Most people would be amazed at how much noise and vibrations a chain developed as the miles stack up . I bought a wrecked bike with chain and sprockets with 2,300 miles on it . During rebuild I started thinking about converting to a belt . After confirming everything worked and got the bike inspected and licensed I ordered the pullys and belt . Wow , what a difference ! At least 50 % less vibration and quite a bit quieter . They each have their place . I still dislike maintenance of a chain , but in ADV riding , about the only choice in a light weight bike .
"You would never buy a motorcycle based solely on what kind of final drive it has..." - wanna bet?
The reason I'm picking a Ducati Monster 696 as a first bike is :
-sound ( air cooled, dry clutch L twin )
-Torque ( 696cc L twin )
-It's a fucking Ducati come on, in red it's like the Ferrari of the bike world
-My dad only owned ducatis
BMW S1250rs👌
Timochat I would advise against buying a Ducati as a first bike.
+Motorcyclist Magazine
Here's an idea for a topic for new riders: how to park your bike! Include different scenarios, like a normal parking space, against a curb, and on a hill. I'd add comments on how to make the bike more visible, and what angle(s) to use so it won't topple over! Plus using a can or kickstand pad on asphalt.
+Chuck Beaubuck Oof, that sucks. :)
I have an old Yamaha that's shaft driven. Frankly I love it. I ride a lot. Like 7,000 miles a season. That would be a lot of chain maintenance I never have to do. Plus it's very smooth, and tire replacements are very easy.
How old are you guys? Modern O or X ring chains and sprockets last 20,000 miles with minimal cleaning and lubing.
okleydokley I didn't say anything about replacing the chain. I said maintenance. Like cleaning and lubing..
okleydokley:
"How old are you guys? Modern O or X ring chains and sprockets last 20,000 miles with minimal cleaning and lubing."
Depends on where and when you ride.
John Casteel Okay but they still take maintenance... And I ride in Michigan, my bike gets rather dirty... I'd be cleaning it a lot...
a whole 20,000 :-) holy wow. Damn a whole 20,000, fuck im missing out there. lol
The Yamaha Vmax, is shaft drive, and was the fastest production motorcycle for several years.
A friend had a V- Max, it was a serious nut case machine. He managed to climb way out on the handlebars like a hood ornament and be able to bang gears in that position when really getting on it racing. Keep it on the ground. Insane
to me belt is best of both worlds low maintence and can almost last the whole life of the bike and if something goes wrong its not expensive to replace unlike shaft
Drive shaft. Hopefully, in the near future, we have a better material for belts that can wrap at a smaller diameter
i will stick to the chain looks the best best delivery and truthfully who doesn't like working on their bike
.,!?
+NITROLLATOR thank you for that.
NITROLLATOR oh because i care
Rev Bomb You really should. Without punctuation marks, a sentence can lose its meaning.
Raymond XL oh noooooo
I would really like to see a video on a carb/throttle body sync!
Yes!
there are hundreds on UA-cam.
Chain failures are more common and much more dangerous than the other 2.
Been riding since 1986. Tried them all. For my daily commute( 28000 miles per year) next bike is by far going to be a shaft driven bike.
LOVE my shaft drive wing!
ARI !!!
Explain the different types of chassis and their characteristics PLEASE!!!
We hear about them in motorcycle reviews, tech specs, and everywhere and no one knows the difference when it comes to riding
Got all three in the garage. Never really had a problem with any of them. Sure, chains are messy but on a sport bike their great. Going long haul crossing the continent, shaft drive and fuel injection. Belts are just nice quiet riders . As we all know ," Choose your ride, for your RIDE !"
I have had 19 bikes with chains, two with belts, and two with shafts. Today's chain are much better in terms of wear and maintenance than they were 30 years ago. Belts are okay if you don't mind picking rocks from the sprockets before they damage the belt. It is true shafts don't require as much maintenance as chains but it costs a lot more when they do. I like the ability to chain the gearing and the lightness of chains so unless I am buying a heavy touring bike I am sticking with chains.
DUDE !!!! there hasn't been one video you've made that I didn't love keep up the good work
"Belts capable of handling super bike power, would have to be unreasonably bulky." False, the Boss Hoss, making 440hp and 440 torque, uses belt drive. Belt drive was specifically chosen because it can handle that amount of power while a chain drive cannot. The reason chain drives are so common on sport bikes is because the gearing can be changed quickly and easily depending on the track and conditions.
And isn’t the boss hoss and all of it’s components extremely bulky?
Its also due to weight. The chain stretch from hard launching a cruiser would be insane. You might even snap it completely.
You must not understand what a superbike is. It's not just about HP, has to otherwise have the handling characteristics, so yes, belt systems aren't at all ideal for a superbike opposed to some overweight thing you shoehorned too big a motor into and are paying the penalty for that every time you ride it.
How about a video on different types of engines like inline four, v4 , v twin etc
Chain for racing, belt and shaft for the street. Had all three over the years and I have two bikes now, one with a belt drive and one with a shaft. I don’t miss the chain.
Old School. I wear a belt to hold my pants up. My truck has a drive shaft. A freakin motorcycle should have a chain.
Amen!
Ok boomer
@@ivangrba4292 Ever been to a Harley Drag Race? If you do go, let me know how many of them have a belt for their final drive. Ever had to replace a belt or a drive shaft? Let me know how much simpler it is than changing out a chain.
Apparently not old school enough... they used to wear suspenders 😁
I've had all three. When I was younger and messing about with cleaning and maintenance was part of the fun, chain was ok. Now I'm older I just want to jump on the bike and ride. Speed and outright power have become less important for me as well so I prefer the cleanliness and low maintenance of shaft drive. Horses for courses as they say.
I would choose the belt because it is clean, lightweight, efficient for distance, and I like how it looks.
It's 2:22 AM
I dont own a bike
Why am I watching this
😂😂😂😁😁
It's1:58am I'm wastingmy time watching comments
its 1:37 am overhere are we in a hidden youtube morning show or something
@@kingslay8816 where are you from
Same here. Dreamin about my ideal bike but i dont have one. Unfair!
I've ridden a lot of bikes. Chain is great, definitely takes maintenance though. No complaints about Belties, I quite like them. But in my old age, I'm definitely on a Shaftie.
After having a belt drive, I doubt I would switch to anything else
Hey MC Garage! Can you PLEASE make a video about the different types of tires for motorcycles and which tyre is the best for certain categories? I would really aprecciate that. Thanks! 😉
+Ari Henning would be very cool
My 82 920Virago shaft has never had a problem and it shifts like a dream
This has become one of the best channels on UA-cam
Owned them all. Belt, by far.
Not a Harley guy by any chance?
Me too but it's the shaft drive for me.
By far the best of both chains are a pain in the ass
@baker2niner why not a shaft???
I can maintain a chain at home easily. Idk how to do drive shaft maintenance. But belt drive seems easier to deal with
Do a video clip about security and thieves prevention
Replaced the chain on my DRZ400SM several months ago(first time i've ever done it myself) with a new one. Broke the old chain and put the new one on myself in about 30mins and it was dirt cheap using a dremel, a chain breaker, chain press, & a dremel.
Same couldn't be said if it were any of the others in this video.
huge fan of the channel! by any chance can you guys make a video on buying a second hand motorcycle? im wanting to buy my very first one and need tips
Never have trusted belts. Have 2 ATV-s and a sled with belts. Been stuck in random wilderness couple of times when belts explode from heat/friction.
belts aren't good off road, very strange that you had offroad vehicles with belts.
@@Amnpaterson belt drives on atvs and sleds are totally different. They operate on a clutch that grabs the sides of it. Its designed to slip. Its why there isnt a clutch handle on them. As the motor revs up the clutch grabs. Idiots blow them up by overloading them and spinning tires in mud for too long.
Wow this is the first time i am hearing about a belt and shaft instead of chain in bikes. Thanks for the video mahn.
Thanks! I had not one but two Suzuki "Savage", now called Boulevard S40, followed by a BMW Scarver 650. All had belt drive & I love it! My current bike, a 2010 Yamaha MT03 660cc, has a chain but I much prefer the maintenance-free belt. By the way, they're all single-cylinder engine, which is plenty enough for an old guy like me (74) to run around town :) My last bike could very well be a third Suzuki Boulevard S40, light, low with a comfortable passenger seat for my young (54) woman :)
nice explanation! well I got a question, why a supersport like lets say zx10r using 4 cylinders,while panigale uses 2 cylinders, they have different displacement though,
well, can you give an explanation of pros and cons of 4,3,2 cylinders?
thanks
4 cylinders make power easier than 2 cylinders, but they require more revs to deliver the power, the 2 cylinders make more torque lower in the rev range but can't rev so high, so they need to be bigger to make the same power as the 4 cylinder bikes, 3 cylinders are in between obviously, I think..
well thanks Death666wish!
Ari Henning, probably it would be great if you give more detail explanation and example with that topic, or maybe why manufacturer build different kinds, and your personal opinion which one is your favourite? 1,2,3,4 cylinders, or maybe more?
You're welcome!
Something about tools would be nice, like essential tools to have in your garage for working on bikes, all the way from wrenches to stands or something. Loving everything about this channel so far btw lol
For me definitely shaft drive!!!! I hated the mess of maintenance with my old bike and it's chain. Now it's always clean and in my opinion, it looks great, makes the bike look muscular!!!
Very interesting phenomenon I experienced recently. I went from a chain and sprocket that was properly adjusted on my Triumph that was only about 2000 miles old. I went to a belt conversion system, the bike overall felt faster accelerated faster and I got slightly better miles per gallon. I still don't quite understand how , but I especially noticed it at high speeds on the highway I was able to accelerate up to and past 100 mph with ease whereas it seemed laggy when I have the chain. So as far as about sapping power, I don't doubt that but however the way it transmits the torque it's smoother and the bike just feels all around happier.
Pulleys for the belt drive fit pretty well on my little 1982 Kawasaki KZ250...
In Asia the Honda Air Blade and SH Mode bikes are 110cc/125cc and are belt drive.
I ride a K1300s BMW. Yep, love that drive. I know that I loose power compared to a chain but when going interstate I love not having to wax the chain. I do admire belt drive, again clean and easy to maintain. But!! you're right, if it's a sport bike you want a chain drive is the only way to go. Dry clutch might be a good idea if you want maximum power as well.
Create a video on Types of Throttle, or an A-Z series of motorcycle really detailed and covering ever mechanical and electrical bit like a motorcycle bible or something. Love the videos thanks for this :)
Ari, thanks for the great tutorials about taking care of our bikes!
Something I find quite difficult is how to ensure that the rear wheel is tracking properly after a chain replacement, when you need to move the adjusters quite a lot.
Maybe there are some smart tricks to do this that MC garage could cover in a future video?
1ST TIME I SEE A BIKE WITH THE BELT ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE. MIND BLOWING THAT'S ADD TO ME
OMG where was this channel.... Thank you sir....
I ride big scooter, it has v-matic belt that needed to be change every 20000km, It is subjected to lots of stretch and wear from CVT system, it is not as efficient as motorcycle with gears but I like it in the city, it help a lots splitting through gridlock jam.
My buddy has an automatic drip feed chain oiler installed on his bike. He says, chain runs clean, zero maintenance apart from keeping oiler resiviour full.
j t scottoiler?
The chain will still streatch as it load fluctuates and it heats and cools over time so it will still have to be tensioned and replaced. This torque and heat based wear will also kill the chain over time even without abrasion wear and rust. It will last longer running in an oil bath or with a drip oiler but it will still stretch and eventually a link will fail. It is lower not zero maintenance but a good idea. A chain cover is also recommended to prevent oil being sprayed onto the road and gravel damaging the chain.
air cooled vs liquid cooled
My 1978 XS1100 was a shaft drive and it was an incredibly powerful and fast bike.
Yamaha had a great system on their TR1. A chain running inside a plastic enclosure filled with lithium grease. Why has this not become the standard for chain driven bikes?
it's more expensive
@@stack_overflow not for the rider in the long run. Less mess, less wear, less adjustment and thus less cost
@@unggrabb yeah but if it costs more to manufacture then of course they're not gonna do it
@@stack_overflow they do upside down forks and lot of other stuff which costs more. Think it just fell out of the "great idea for the next bike" box. Would also ensure max power by virtue of perfact functiong drive chain
Thank you so much for the info. I chose the driveshaft, and the GOLDWING😀👍🏽
I've had all 3 types including 2 x BMW F800S with belt drive and 2 x Guzzi V7 with shaft, 1 Honda with exposed chain, 1 MZ with fully enclosed chain, 1 MuZ 660 single with exposed chain and, for completeness, various T&G machines too. For commuting, touring and all weather riding in the British winter, chain maintenance can be a bind. My 660 single cost me a fortune in chains and sprockets, but to be fair it was a single so it put 1 big pulse through the chain per revolution instead of 4 small pulses. Chains are popular because (a) race bikes have them; racers can afford to replace them regularly, sometimes every day, and leisure riders like to copy the style. (b) Most leisure riders don't ride in the rain or on salty roads. (c) they're cheap to make. Once you start doing several thousand miles a year in all weathers, the supposed drawbacks of belt or shaft are soon forgotten. I've had cars with less BHP than my bike and they've all had shaft drive, because it makes sense for a practical every day vehicle.
BMW M chain is looking like a game changer. It’s claimed to not require lubrication and will not need its tension adjusted.
I LIKE BELT !!
XL883L H-D no ones talking shit about the belt. it's like they just ignore it
I like lamp
I like helter-skelter
DID ERV3 520 X-Ring > all stock chains because the stock chains are usually O-Ring and 525+ which means you bind even when it's new because the resistance is high.
Do chain adjustment and wheel alignment :)
I wanted a big motorcycle (I'm 195 cm), reliable, 1000+ cc, 2 cylinder and affordable (for 20 y/o student). Sensible option: 14 y/o BMW r1100s
Second hand, the added price of a well engineered drive-shaft is negligible and oil changes being the only maintenance you have to do on them, it's cheaper! Replacing chain and sprockets is rather expensive. Besides who really does change they final gear ratio? Honestly...
But real good video by the way, short, to the point and nice to watch
I'm all about all three at once. Get the chains the belt and then comes the shaft!
Was finally able to get the Concours 14 I've wanted for years. I know now that I'll never buy a bike that isn't shaft
My Yamaha xs850 had a shaft, loved it and it was bullet proof
chain = racing sport riding. shaft = crusing. belt = 5 hp mini bikes.
Belt.......
I have had all three...Belt is clean and nearly maintenance free, less weight and frictional losses compared to a shaft, change gearing as easy as a chain and does not effect rear suspension action like a shaft when you open or close the throttle.
My favorite tyres are belt and saft
"You would never buy a motorcycle, based solely on the kind of final drive it has"....Yes I would...All I care about, are shaft drive bikes. I will not tolerate the high maintenance & frequent costs of chain drive. I will be riding a lot, in most kinds of weather, including heavy rain & snow, delivering things, and going on big adventures. And when I'm not on my bike, I want to enjoy the other parts of my life. There is no room in my life, for high maintenance anything, be it a bike or a woman.I plan on turbocharging any bike I would own, then later, converting it, to full electric, that will be at least as strong as the turbocharged engine. I need a final drive, that can reliably handle all that force, and not be vulnerable to pebbles, snow, or road salt. So that excludes belt drive, and farther excludes chain.I don't care about the advantages of belt & chain. To me, they don't outweigh everything else. I'm loyal to shaft drive motorcycles. They're the only ones that matter to me now. And I realized something. Shaft drive, is like electric motorcycles...higher initial cost, extremely low maintenance...Now imagine an electric motorcycle, with shaft drive. All I have to worry about, are tires & brakes, and maybe the batteries' condition. That's it. I won't have to worry about bearings & gear oil, for a very long time.
Seems legit. I'd only prefer Belt for gearing changes. Though, a small single gear set transmission [MAYBE a two speed for a higher top speed] would probably be a second solution if the manufacturer of this hypothetical machine wanted to have shaft drive for certain.
Observing Rogue yeah I bet you like that shaft ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
". I will be riding a lot, in most kinds of weather, including heavy rain & snow, delivering things, and going on big adventures."
LOL sounds like the plot for the next Will Ferrell movie
you are my kind of dude, love your thinking, i am 62, have not had chain drive in over 30 years, shaft is the way to go man.
What a yuppie
I did this comparison with my wife's help. She said she likes the shaft, but was just pulling my chain, so ended up with the belt.
for a 2013 BMW F800GT the drive belt needs replacement every 24k recommended. The cost of a belt is a whopping 537.00 + tax. The belt can be sourced at any BMW motorcycle dealer. The labor for changing the belt in Southern CA is 250.00. You can change the belt in under 30 minutes assuming you have some mechanical inclination. A chain and sprocket will usually run about 100.00 for most any bike.
Listen I had so many issues with chain-tightening that I ended up selling the entire bike. Had chains just fall off while riding. Once they're loose, there's no getting them back to a good tension. Once you loosen that bolt it will never be the same.
Since I don't ride sport bikes I have definitely bought bikes solely because of the final drive. The last 3 have been shaft drive bikes. Easier to maintain, last longer and much easier to replace a rear tire. No adjustments.
I drive shaft and changing gears is difficult but its worth it
Every video i watch says they all have pros and cons, but i really dont see any cons to shaft. The only con every one says is "if it breaks it is expensive" but one of the pros they always give is "almost always last the life of the bike". So the only con is its a pain if it breaks which it shouldnt
honestly for racing id stick with chain. but everyday riding i like the shaft. especially if you cover allot of miles
Why? Shaft weighs just about the same....
shaft is less maintanence. and i trust it more for longer trips etc. not about weight
I've got news for you, a good O-ring chain will last longer than the bearings in most modern BMW shaft drives, and cost a lot less to just replace.
Any shaft setup weighs a lot more than chain and adds unsprung weight. You need a beefy shaft, and huge steel bevel gears, plus alloy housings and a volume of gear oil.
okleydokley no...you need a carbonfiber or glassfiber shaft that weighs a few pounds and some gears...and if that is too much unsprung weight man you are driving a moped...
SO ... I Love Chain Drive Buddy.
thanks for You Worthy information..👍
Simple video that is easy to follow. Thanks!
I sixty-five got a softail belt drive its easy for me. And I am a little old for racing. Still love my two wheels. I guess what it boils down to you do you and I do me!
soo much info in 3min. respect
I determine the purchase of the bike by swing arm style
I love the shaft drive on my Concours. I am okay with the power loss since it is my daily driver and I need that durability in rain and everything.
Had no complaints about my chain drive on the other though. More maintenance but it all evens out in the long run.
I love the way chain and sprockets look jheezus
I've had a chain drive. And currently riding a shaft drive. Yes you lose some power with the shaft drive, but let's think about this. Just this year I put on my ride 12k miles. If I used chain, I would have to stop every 500 miles and clean, lubricant, adjust for slack. On my final drive shaft, I've drained and filled it at 5k and 10k. So my ride to MI (1167 miles) only had gas stops and 1 hotel stay. Racers sure keep the chain. But for those long rides I'll stick with the shafts from now on.
Shafts, when paired with a transverse mounted engine and a side facing crankshaft are going to lose a bit of power to the wheel, but an ideal shaft setup would be paired with a longitudinal engine, crankshaft facing the rear.
Not that its possible/practical, but if the chains were isolated from contamination and submerged in oil like a chain drive for an engines camshaft they would outlast belts.
Great stuff. Keep posting these segments!
I've had belt and chain. Belt is my favorite of those 2. Paired with a yamaha it's a worry free set up.
So clear and concise...as always, a pleasure to watch your videos
Yamaha had an enclosed chain setup. Chain running inside square profile plastic tubes an rear sprocket enclosed. Chain jappy inside covered on grase. No dirt on wheel from lube. Chain lasted forever. Why hasnt this taken off? Seems the better solution to wear problem. Drawback that chain slack checks would be a bit more difficult, but weight penalty would be minimal
My biggest problem with shaft is the grasshopper effect it has on the chassis you didn't mention
I had an FJ1200 and loved it - put 70,000 miles on it. I assumed that replacing it with an FJR1300 was a no brainer, but I was wrong. Shaft drive and other odds and ends added 140lb and the extra weight beats up the front tire walls. On new tires the bike handles OK, nowhere near as good as the old FJ, but OK. After 2,000 miles, the front tire begins to give out and the handling goes down the tubes. Yes you can make the tires last longer by cranking the pressure up to 44psi, but then you get beaten up by road imperfections. I was hoping that the Tracer 900GT might be the answer, but Yamaha cut some corners. The foot pegs are on rear sets (derived from the MT900?) giving a schizophrenic riding position. The bars are pure adventure bike - high, wide and close to the rider - but the foot pegs are pure sport bike back under the rider's butt. Tourer? This must get real tiring after an hour or two.
I'm a fan of my shaft drive I'll admit. Just swap out the fluid every 10,000 or so. Fluid is dirt cheap (a swap only takes 220ml). It's a great system.
One thing to mention is with motorcycles that have Shaft drives, there is the issue of Shaft Jacking. More noticeable on Lighter weight sport tourers.
That's why BMW and Kawasaki have Paralever.
definitely noticeable on the fjr. good call!
Interesting video! Similar questions is asked in my field, when speaking of vertical storage solutions... Who wouldnt want a high efficient and secure chain over a stretchy belt while having weights travel up to 2m/s and approx 10m high? I would definetley go for the chains...
Awesome 👍